It's almost 10 y/o. Model RGS57745PQ0 (Natural Gas)

I've checked owner's manual troubleshooting and checked the outlet. No
problem there.

Could be the timer or the "on" switch. I'm pressing the switch but it
seems like it "may" not be engaging. Nothing happens. House fuse is fine
and the door is shut firmly.

I'm about to pull it out but thought I'd check with the geniuses.

Jim

gonjah wrote:
It's almost 10 y/o. Model RGS57745PQ0 (Natural Gas)

I've checked owner's manual troubleshooting and checked the outlet. No
problem there.

Could be the timer or the "on" switch. I'm pressing the switch but it
seems like it "may" not be engaging. Nothing happens. House fuse is fine
and the door is shut firmly.

I'm about to pull it out but thought I'd check with the geniuses.

Jim
Hi,
Then why don't you check the switch first. Like momentarily shorting the
two leads
on the switch. If switch is good and you have power, at least you should
feel or hear some thing like motor humming or trying to turn jerking,
etc. If it is dead silent, indeed
switch may not be making a contact when you push it.

On 9/21/2014 10:38 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
gonjah wrote:
It's almost 10 y/o. Model RGS57745PQ0 (Natural Gas)

I've checked owner's manual troubleshooting and checked the outlet. No
problem there.

Could be the timer or the "on" switch. I'm pressing the switch but it
seems like it "may" not be engaging. Nothing happens. House fuse is fine
and the door is shut firmly.

I'm about to pull it out but thought I'd check with the geniuses.

Jim
Hi,
Then why don't you check the switch first. Like momentarily shorting the
two leads
on the switch. If switch is good and you have power, at least you should
feel or hear some thing like motor humming or trying to turn jerking,
etc. If it is dead silent, indeed
switch may not be making a contact when you push it.


If you have not already done so, I'd also be checking the interlock
switch(s) on the door.

On 9/21/2014 10:38 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
gonjah wrote:
It's almost 10 y/o. Model RGS57745PQ0 (Natural Gas)

I've checked owner's manual troubleshooting and checked the outlet. No
problem there.

Could be the timer or the "on" switch. I'm pressing the switch but it
seems like it "may" not be engaging. Nothing happens. House fuse is fine
and the door is shut firmly.

I'm about to pull it out but thought I'd check with the geniuses.

Jim
Hi,
Then why don't you check the switch first. Like momentarily shorting the
two leads
on the switch. If switch is good and you have power, at least you should
feel or hear some thing like motor humming or trying to turn jerking,
etc. If it is dead silent, indeed
switch may not be making a contact when you push it.

The switch has another function and has three prongs. I tried to do a
continuity test but I got strange (to me) results and I don't know
exactly what I'm doing.

Here's the switch. It actually has 4 prongs but one isn't used.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/wh...ap2947429.html

Anyone know how to test a switch like this? It's a "on" switch by
pushing it. Twisting turns the cycle buzzer on/off.

Jim

Jim:

If there's no response at all from the dryer as a result of trying to turn it on I'd check the door switch.

Also, if this is an ELECTRIC dryer, there will be TWO fuses to it; each rated at 30 amps. If it's an electric dryer, and you only checked one fuse or breaker, it could be that the timer motor runs off power delivered via the other fuse or breaker, and that's what the problem is. A gas fired dryer will only have one fuse or breaker.

On 9/21/2014 10:52 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 9/21/2014 10:38 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
gonjah wrote:
It's almost 10 y/o. Model RGS57745PQ0 (Natural Gas)

I've checked owner's manual troubleshooting and checked the outlet. No
problem there.

Could be the timer or the "on" switch. I'm pressing the switch but it
seems like it "may" not be engaging. Nothing happens. House fuse is fine
and the door is shut firmly.

I'm about to pull it out but thought I'd check with the geniuses.

Jim
Hi,
Then why don't you check the switch first. Like momentarily shorting the
two leads
on the switch. If switch is good and you have power, at least you should
feel or hear some thing like motor humming or trying to turn jerking,
etc. If it is dead silent, indeed
switch may not be making a contact when you push it.


If you have not already done so, I'd also be checking the interlock
switch(s) on the door.

I figured out how to do a continuity test on the start switch, thermal
fuse, timer and the door switch, All tested fine. Then I even hot wired
the start switch and that didn't work. The dryer in now in the back of
my truck and will be headed to the repair shop. I doesn't look good. I
might be buying a new dryer tomorrow. :-(

What really ****es me is I wasted all that time testing the parts.

On 9/21/2014 11:12 AM, nestork wrote:
Jim:

If there's no response at all from the dryer as a result of trying to
turn it on I'd check the door switch.

Also, if this is an ELECTRIC dryer, there will be TWO fuses to it; each
rated at 30 amps. If it's an electric dryer, and you only checked one
fuse or breaker, it could be that the timer motor runs off power
delivered via the other fuse or breaker, and that's what the problem is.
A gas fired dryer will only have one fuse or breaker.





Thanks but I checked the thermal fuse. Also just about everything you
can check with a multimeter.

It's a gas dryer.

Thanks all for the help.

On Sun, 21 Sep 2014 13:59:11 -0500, gonjah wrote:

What really ****es me is I wasted all that time testing the parts.

Keep Austin Weird, Jim.

A republican could have helped you.

On 9/21/2014 1:59 PM, gonjah wrote:
On 9/21/2014 10:52 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

[snip]
the start switch and that didn't work. The dryer in now in the back of
my truck and will be headed to the repair shop. I doesn't look good. I
might be buying a new dryer tomorrow. :-(

What really ****es me is I wasted all that time testing the parts.

Ca-ca happens... it's just your turng

OTOH, just think how happy you'd have been if the second thing you
tested turned out to be some $6.00 part.

"gonjah" wrote in message
...
On 9/21/2014 10:52 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 9/21/2014 10:38 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
gonjah wrote:
It's almost 10 y/o. Model RGS57745PQ0 (Natural Gas)

I've checked owner's manual troubleshooting and checked the outlet. No
problem there.

Could be the timer or the "on" switch. I'm pressing the switch but it
seems like it "may" not be engaging. Nothing happens. House fuse is
fine
and the door is shut firmly.

I'm about to pull it out but thought I'd check with the geniuses.

Jim
Hi,
Then why don't you check the switch first. Like momentarily shorting the
two leads
on the switch. If switch is good and you have power, at least you should
feel or hear some thing like motor humming or trying to turn jerking,
etc. If it is dead silent, indeed
switch may not be making a contact when you push it.


If you have not already done so, I'd also be checking the interlock
switch(s) on the door.

I figured out how to do a continuity test on the start switch, thermal
fuse, timer and the door switch, All tested fine. Then I even hot wired
the start switch and that didn't work. The dryer in now in the back of my
truck and will be headed to the repair shop. I doesn't look good. I might
be buying a new dryer tomorrow. :-(

What really ****es me is I wasted all that time testing the parts.

You didn't waste your time. What if you didn't bother to test the parts,
and you hauled it in to the repair shop and it turned out to be the easiest
thing possible?

On 9/21/2014 2:52 PM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 9/21/2014 1:59 PM, gonjah wrote:
On 9/21/2014 10:52 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:

[snip]
the start switch and that didn't work. The dryer in now in the back of
my truck and will be headed to the repair shop. I doesn't look good. I
might be buying a new dryer tomorrow. :-(

What really ****es me is I wasted all that time testing the parts.

Ca-ca happens... it's just your turng

OTOH, just think how happy you'd have been if the second thing you
tested turned out to be some $6.00 part.




Could be but I don't think you can get much for 6 bucks these days.
Maybe a screw. Any suggestions? It's just sitting in my truck. I can run
a extension cord to it. I'm guessing the motor or a part of the timer I
don't understand.

Loose wire?? I've taken both back panels off and didn't see any thing
unusual except some lint. My wife said the top was very hot before it
went out but I'm not sure how hot it gets during normal operation. They
were using it a lot because we were having a pool party and they were
drying the towels.

Jim

On 9/21/2014 2:52 PM, Pico Rico wrote:
"gonjah" wrote in message
...
On 9/21/2014 10:52 AM, Unquestionably Confused wrote:
On 9/21/2014 10:38 AM, Tony Hwang wrote:
gonjah wrote:
It's almost 10 y/o. Model RGS57745PQ0 (Natural Gas)

I've checked owner's manual troubleshooting and checked the outlet. No
problem there.

Could be the timer or the "on" switch. I'm pressing the switch but it
seems like it "may" not be engaging. Nothing happens. House fuse is
fine
and the door is shut firmly.

I'm about to pull it out but thought I'd check with the geniuses.

Jim
Hi,
Then why don't you check the switch first. Like momentarily shorting the
two leads
on the switch. If switch is good and you have power, at least you should
feel or hear some thing like motor humming or trying to turn jerking,
etc. If it is dead silent, indeed
switch may not be making a contact when you push it.


If you have not already done so, I'd also be checking the interlock
switch(s) on the door.

I figured out how to do a continuity test on the start switch, thermal
fuse, timer and the door switch, All tested fine. Then I even hot wired
the start switch and that didn't work. The dryer in now in the back of my
truck and will be headed to the repair shop. I doesn't look good. I might
be buying a new dryer tomorrow. :-(

What really ****es me is I wasted all that time testing the parts.

You didn't waste your time. What if you didn't bother to test the parts,
and you hauled it in to the repair shop and it turned out to be the easiest
thing possible?



Yeah...there is that. :-)

I can understand why all the YouTube videos say to check the door switch
first. I wonder how much they charge to swap out that tiny little
switch? $100?

Almost as bad as Firestone charging me $20 dollars labor to change my
cabin filter.

On 9/21/2014 5:08 PM, gonjah wrote:
My wife said the top was very hot before it
went out but I'm not sure how hot it gets during normal operation. They
were using it a lot because we were having a pool party and they were
drying the towels.

Jim

Not sure about Ropers, but GE has two or three
thermal cutouts.

Sears parts web site, might provide you with
exploded diagram.

Sounds like a clogged discharge, and over heated.
Towels throw a lot of fuzzies.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/21/2014 5:11 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/21/2014 5:08 PM, gonjah wrote:
My wife said the top was very hot before it
went out but I'm not sure how hot it gets during normal operation. They
were using it a lot because we were having a pool party and they were
drying the towels.

Jim

Not sure about Ropers, but GE has two or three
thermal cutouts.

Sears parts web site, might provide you with
exploded diagram.

Sounds like a clogged discharge, and over heated.
Towels throw a lot of fuzzies.

.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

My thought is it's some problem with overheating. I looked at the
blowups and they only show the thermal fuse. You might be thinking of
the thermostat, but it doesn't cause the unit to shut down (If I
understand it correctly).

Another part that might be out is the pulley idle switch but I can't
find it on the blow-ups or parts list.

Here's the blow-ups I'm using.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa...gs7745pq0.html

I'm going to take it off of my truck and play with it for awhile.

On 9/21/2014 7:26 PM, gonjah wrote:

Not sure about Ropers, but GE has two or three
thermal cutouts.

My thought is it's some problem with overheating. I looked at the
blowups and they only show the thermal fuse. You might be thinking of
the thermostat, but it doesn't cause the unit to shut down (If I
understand it correctly).

Another part that might be out is the pulley idle switch but I can't
find it on the blow-ups or parts list.

Here's the blow-ups I'm using.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa...gs7745pq0.html

I'm going to take it off of my truck and play with it for awhile.

On that web site, I noted a cycling thermostat, thermal
fuse, and high limit cutout. Look under bulkhead parts.

With clogged exhaust, and load of towels, any of these
could be your problem.



..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/21/2014 6:35 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/21/2014 7:26 PM, gonjah wrote:

Not sure about Ropers, but GE has two or three
thermal cutouts.

My thought is it's some problem with overheating. I looked at the
blowups and they only show the thermal fuse. You might be thinking of
the thermostat, but it doesn't cause the unit to shut down (If I
understand it correctly).

Another part that might be out is the pulley idle switch but I can't
find it on the blow-ups or parts list.

Here's the blow-ups I'm using.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa...gs7745pq0.html

I'm going to take it off of my truck and play with it for awhile.

On that web site, I noted a cycling thermostat, thermal
fuse, and high limit cutout. Look under bulkhead parts.

With clogged exhaust, and load of towels, any of these
could be your problem.



.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

OK thanks but the cycling thermostat will only cause the heat not to
come on. The drum should still turn. I'm checking it anyway.

I just checked the thermal fuse again. It's fine.

I'll be interested in the high limit cutout. I'll check back in awhile.

On 9/21/2014 6:45 PM, gonjah wrote:
On 9/21/2014 6:35 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/21/2014 7:26 PM, gonjah wrote:

Not sure about Ropers, but GE has two or three
thermal cutouts.

My thought is it's some problem with overheating. I looked at the
blowups and they only show the thermal fuse. You might be thinking of
the thermostat, but it doesn't cause the unit to shut down (If I
understand it correctly).

Another part that might be out is the pulley idle switch but I can't
find it on the blow-ups or parts list.

Here's the blow-ups I'm using.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa...gs7745pq0.html

I'm going to take it off of my truck and play with it for awhile.

On that web site, I noted a cycling thermostat, thermal
fuse, and high limit cutout. Look under bulkhead parts.

With clogged exhaust, and load of towels, any of these
could be your problem.



.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

OK thanks but the cycling thermostat will only cause the heat not to
come on. The drum should still turn. I'm checking it anyway.

I just checked the thermal fuse again. It's fine.

I'll be interested in the high limit cutout. I'll check back in awhile.

Those all check out fine. Anything associated with "thermostats"
shouldn't stop the machine from running anyway.

BTW: I happen to notice I am getting juice to the thermal fuse because I
got a little shock when I forgot to unplug the machine. I'm not sure how
telling that is.

On 9/21/2014 7:26 PM, gonjah wrote:
Another part that might be out is the pulley idle switch but I can't
find it on the blow-ups or parts list.

Here's the blow-ups I'm using.

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa...gs7745pq0.html

I'm going to take it off of my truck and play with it for awhile.

I got out my dryer repair manual. Says Roper made
by whirlpool. Which is good news, they are simple
and cheap to fix.

So you plug it in, turn the dial, push the button
and the drum does not tumble? Is that what I gather?

I went back and read your messages "doesn't start"
means drum doesn't tumble?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/21/2014 7:45 PM, gonjah wrote:
OK thanks but the cycling thermostat will only cause the heat not to
come on. The drum should still turn. I'm checking it anyway.

I just checked the thermal fuse again. It's fine.

I'll be interested in the high limit cutout. I'll check back in awhile.

Might be a bad run cap on the drive motor?

Belt came off the motor, and now the motor
spins freely?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/21/2014 8:12 PM, gonjah wrote:
Those all check out fine. Anything associated with "thermostats"
shouldn't stop the machine from running anyway.

BTW: I happen to notice I am getting juice to the thermal fuse because I
got a little shock when I forgot to unplug the machine. I'm not sure how
telling that is.

Detail: What means "running"?

Means the clothes come out wet
and cold after some tumbling?

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/21/2014 7:24 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/21/2014 8:12 PM, gonjah wrote:
Those all check out fine. Anything associated with "thermostats"
shouldn't stop the machine from running anyway.

BTW: I happen to notice I am getting juice to the thermal fuse because I
got a little shock when I forgot to unplug the machine. I'm not sure how
telling that is.

Detail: What means "running"?

Means the clothes come out wet
and cold after some tumbling?

.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Right. Drum turns no heat.

Mine is just not coming on at all.

But....(some)juice is going to the thermal fuse.

Only thing after that is the pulley switch and the motor and I have no
idea if this machine has a pulley switch. I can't find it in the machine
or the blowups.

The timer is a bit more complicated than switches and fuses. I've given
it a continuity test and it passed but I'm still not certain it's
working properly.

Jim

On 9/21/2014 7:23 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/21/2014 7:45 PM, gonjah wrote:
OK thanks but the cycling thermostat will only cause the heat not to
come on. The drum should still turn. I'm checking it anyway.

I just checked the thermal fuse again. It's fine.

I'll be interested in the high limit cutout. I'll check back in awhile.

Might be a bad run cap on the drive motor?

Belt came off the motor, and now the motor
spins freely?


I'm going to pull the motor out.

I've check the belt and it's on there properly and the motor spins (only
manually) when I turn the drum.

I already said I can't find a pulley switch but it seems like it should
have one.

Jim

On 9/21/2014 8:38 PM, gonjah wrote:
Right. Drum turns no heat.

Mine is just not coming on at all.

But....(some)juice is going to the thermal fuse.

Only thing after that is the pulley switch and the motor and I have no
idea if this machine has a pulley switch. I can't find it in the machine
or the blowups.

The timer is a bit more complicated than switches and fuses. I've given
it a continuity test and it passed but I'm still not certain it's
working properly.

Jim

Wish you'd said that earlier, about drum turns
but no heat. I thought you had no drum tumble.
Glad I asked. I was pulling your chain, cause
I knew it was not tumbling.

Last I worked on a gas dryer, the common parts
are hot surface igniter, and solenoid to gas
valve.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"gonjah" wrote in message
...
It's almost 10 y/o. Model RGS57745PQ0 (Natural Gas)

I've checked owner's manual troubleshooting and checked the outlet. No
problem there.

Could be the timer or the "on" switch. I'm pressing the switch but it
seems like it "may" not be engaging. Nothing happens. House fuse is fine
and the door is shut firmly.


It is time to check to see where the voltage is being lost at. Take a
voltmeter or one of the simple neon bulb type testers and keep one end of
the meter/probe on the neutral wire where it comes in to the dryer. You may
find a wiring diagram for the dryer to help you trace things. If you have
voltage on one side of the "press to start' switch, put a jumper across that
switch. Then follow the voltage path to see where it is being lost.

You may want to go across the motor first just to see if it is the motor.
The motor may (but I doubt it) have a reset switch on it that is tripped.

Dryers usually have several interlocks. The door switch, thermal cutout or
two, probably one that senses the drum is turning.

I think you mentioned the door switch having 3 terminals but only 2 were
used. The third one usually goes to a light in the drum if there is one.
The switch has one hot leg and the other two are so that one will be hot
when to door is open and goes to that light if there is one. The other one
goes to the control circuit that stops the motor if it is running. Make
sure that the wires were put back on correctly if you took them off.




---
This email is free from viruses and malware because avast! Antivirus protection is active.
http://www.avast.com

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
On 9/21/2014 8:38 PM, gonjah wrote:
Right. Drum turns no heat.

Mine is just not coming on at all.

But....(some)juice is going to the thermal fuse.

Only thing after that is the pulley switch and the motor and I have no
idea if this machine has a pulley switch. I can't find it in the machine
or the blowups.

The timer is a bit more complicated than switches and fuses. I've given
it a continuity test and it passed but I'm still not certain it's
working properly.

Jim

Wish you'd said that earlier, about drum turns
but no heat. I thought you had no drum tumble.
Glad I asked. I was pulling your chain, cause
I knew it was not tumbling.

Last I worked on a gas dryer, the common parts
are hot surface igniter, and solenoid to gas
valve.

Contrary to what he said, I don't think his motor turns. No heat, no motor.
I guess.

On 9/21/2014 8:58 PM, Pico Rico wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
On 9/21/2014 8:38 PM, gonjah wrote:
Right. Drum turns no heat.

Contrary to what he said, I don't think
his motor turns. No heat, no motor.
I guess.


Well, this is even more confusing. Yo, G!
Help us out here, friend.


..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/21/2014 7:58 PM, Pico Rico wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
On 9/21/2014 8:38 PM, gonjah wrote:
Right. Drum turns no heat.

Mine is just not coming on at all.

But....(some)juice is going to the thermal fuse.

Only thing after that is the pulley switch and the motor and I have no
idea if this machine has a pulley switch. I can't find it in the machine
or the blowups.

The timer is a bit more complicated than switches and fuses. I've given
it a continuity test and it passed but I'm still not certain it's
working properly.

Jim

Wish you'd said that earlier, about drum turns
but no heat. I thought you had no drum tumble.
Glad I asked. I was pulling your chain, cause
I knew it was not tumbling.

Last I worked on a gas dryer, the common parts
are hot surface igniter, and solenoid to gas
valve.

Contrary to what he said, I don't think his motor turns. No heat, no motor.
I guess.



Sorry Stormin but I thought "Will not start" in the title would cover that.

And Pico, the motor does turn, but only manually.

I found the problem. It is a bad timer.

I got a bad continuity test on the second timer test. I didn't know
there are two continuity test on the timer.

Now I have to figure out how to get that damn front panel back on. Turns
out it's dangerous.

On 9/21/2014 9:18 PM, gonjah wrote:
Sorry Stormin but I thought "Will not start" in the title would cover that.

And Pico, the motor does turn, but only manually.

I found the problem. It is a bad timer.

I got a bad continuity test on the second timer test. I didn't know
there are two continuity test on the timer.

Now I have to figure out how to get that damn front panel back on. Turns
out it's dangerous.

Now there are two of us, frustrated. Shows
me good, for trying to be useful.

..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 9/21/2014 8:26 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 9/21/2014 9:18 PM, gonjah wrote:
Sorry Stormin but I thought "Will not start" in the title would cover
that.

And Pico, the motor does turn, but only manually.

I found the problem. It is a bad timer.

I got a bad continuity test on the second timer test. I didn't know
there are two continuity test on the timer.

Now I have to figure out how to get that damn front panel back on. Turns
out it's dangerous.

Now there are two of us, frustrated. Shows
me good, for trying to be useful.

.
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

I wish I would have seen the right youtube video earlier. I wouldn't
have taken the panel off. May there is a video on how to put it back on.

First price I've seen on the timer is $116. Anyone know where to get it
cheaper?

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/wh...ap3038725.html