On 7/14/2014 1:55 PM, dpb wrote:
On 07/14/2014 2:16 PM, DaveT wrote:
...

Where the qwikcrete touches wood, what prep should be done to the wood?
...

Clean and prime.

--



OK - I cleaned out all the rot wood, replaced it with treated deck wood
that presumably won't rot. I raised the base of the treated wood about
an inch higher than the wood went before.

I used exterior primer on all exposed wood, then I used regular
qwikcrete to fill in the existing hole and vertically fill in all open
wood space (the base of the treated wood now lies on about a 1 inch
buildup of qwikcrete - that should stop much wicking).

The photo shows how things look now.

My question is: what to do next? I'm not going to put in any plain trim
and have it rot out again.

Should I encase the whole area using deckwood? Lay on more qwikcrete
vertically up to where the base of the wood trim is now and try to make
it look ok? Or use some flashing to somehow cover the thing up?

I welcome any sensible ideas.

Thanks to everybody for all the help so far.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231...n/photostream/

On 07/16/2014 1:44 PM, DaveT wrote:
....


OK - I cleaned out all the rot wood, replaced it with treated deck wood
that presumably won't rot. I raised the base of the treated wood about
an inch higher than the wood went before.

I used exterior primer on all exposed wood, then I used regular
qwikcrete to fill in the existing hole and vertically fill in all open
wood space (the base of the treated wood now lies on about a 1 inch
buildup of qwikcrete - that should stop much wicking).

The photo shows how things look now.

My question is: what to do next? I'm not going to put in any plain trim
and have it rot out again.

Should I encase the whole area using deckwood? Lay on more qwikcrete
vertically up to where the base of the wood trim is now and try to make
it look ok? Or use some flashing to somehow cover the thing up?

I welcome any sensible ideas.

Thanks to everybody for all the help so far.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231...n/photostream/


Hmmmm....I can't tell for sure what I'm looking at and the shape of the
fill in that is the dark area. What I had in mind with the concrete
buildup was to form it out a half-inch or so at least in each direction
beyond the dimensions of the brick mould so it became the new base but
having the recess such that the fill in to that or a replacement piece
would fit in as the existing. Looks to me like you've kinda' rounded
over that where you're not going to be able to put in a piece of
moulding now?

I still think you have a basically insurmountable problem with that
being a well at the sill level -- what does the rest of the area around
it look like and where's the overall drainage? I'd still think the real
longterm fix would include raising that sill at least a little above the
rest of the grade.

I'd like some more explanation and a little more of an overview from now
before further more detailed explanations if possible.

--

On 7/16/2014 2:11 PM, dpb wrote:
On 07/16/2014 1:44 PM, DaveT wrote:
...


OK - I cleaned out all the rot wood, replaced it with treated deck wood
that presumably won't rot. I raised the base of the treated wood about
an inch higher than the wood went before.

I used exterior primer on all exposed wood, then I used regular
qwikcrete to fill in the existing hole and vertically fill in all open
wood space (the base of the treated wood now lies on about a 1 inch
buildup of qwikcrete - that should stop much wicking).

The photo shows how things look now.

My question is: what to do next? I'm not going to put in any plain trim
and have it rot out again.

Should I encase the whole area using deckwood? Lay on more qwikcrete
vertically up to where the base of the wood trim is now and try to make
it look ok? Or use some flashing to somehow cover the thing up?

I welcome any sensible ideas.

Thanks to everybody for all the help so far.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231...n/photostream/


Hmmmm....I can't tell for sure what I'm looking at and the shape of the
fill in that is the dark area. What I had in mind with the concrete
buildup was to form it out a half-inch or so at least in each direction
beyond the dimensions of the brick mould so it became the new base but
having the recess such that the fill in to that or a replacement piece
would fit in as the existing. Looks to me like you've kinda' rounded
over that where you're not going to be able to put in a piece of
moulding now?

I still think you have a basically insurmountable problem with that
being a well at the sill level -- what does the rest of the area around
it look like and where's the overall drainage? I'd still think the real
longterm fix would include raising that sill at least a little above the
rest of the grade.

I'd like some more explanation and a little more of an overview from now
before further more detailed explanations if possible.

It's not a well. During heavy rains with wind there was area below the
rot wood that was allowing water to get in accumulate before it could
drain, and wick up into the wood. It wasn't apparent until I pulled
things apart a few days ago.

No water has ever been able to go over the sill.

Adjacent to the door is a 3x3 ft concrete slab with a low drainage slant
which runs into a pit I dug out a long time ago, with a grating over it.

I think this is going to solve it and I don't want to go the route of
building up a sill and cutting the door to size and finding out that
I'll need a new custom cut door..... etc. The door is standard metal
with some kind of foam interior and I doubt there's any easy way of
modifying it.

If this doesn't work, I would agree with you that the next step is a
raised sill, but I don't want to go there, yet.




--

Dave,

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231...n/photostream/

I cleaned out all the rot wood, replaced it with treated deck wood
that presumably won't rot.

Treated wood will still rot, it just takes longer. There are also different
ratings for pressure treated lumber. Typical deck lumber has less
protection than wood labeled "safe for ground contact". Usually the better
ground contact lumber has a series of holes where the chemicals are forced
deep into the wood.

Also, pressure treatment usually doesn't penetrate that far into the wood.
If you cut the board, the center section is usually untreated wood that
would need to be painted with preservatives to minimize rot.

the base of the treated wood now lies on about a 1 inch
buildup of qwikcrete - that should stop much wicking.

Unfortunately, concrete does not stop moisture. That's why plastic vapor
barriers are placed under concrete slabs. Without some kind of barrier
between the concrete and wood, you can potentially still get wicking.
Granted, the PT lumber will probably last longer.

what to do next? I'm not going to put in any plain trim
and have it rot out again.

If you're going to continue with the patch job, I would pick up some PVC or
composite lumber to use for the trim. It's basically plastic, so it can't
rot. It mills and paints just like wood.

I agree with DPB though, the door is installed incorrectly. The door sill
is sitting below the level of the walkway outside. You may be able seal it
off temporarily, but at some point water is going to find it's way under
the door sill (there is usually wood under that metal covering on the door
sill). It would be smart to either raise the door frame, or lower the
sidewalk. I'm betting it would be easier to raise the door frame.

As I mentioned previously, you would be better off to order a new composite
door frame and stop messing around with patches that may or may not last. I
replaced my door frames in about 2-3 hours each. Remove the door from the
hinges, remove any interior trim, cut the exterior caulking with a knife,
cut the nails with a reciprocating saw, and pop out the old frame. Then
it's a simple job to install the new frame.

Best wishes with your repair!

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

On 7/16/2014 3:08 PM, HerHusband wrote:
Dave,

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231...n/photostream/

I cleaned out all the rot wood, replaced it with treated deck wood
that presumably won't rot.

Treated wood will still rot, it just takes longer. There are also different
ratings for pressure treated lumber. Typical deck lumber has less
protection than wood labeled "safe for ground contact". Usually the better
ground contact lumber has a series of holes where the chemicals are forced
deep into the wood.

Also, pressure treatment usually doesn't penetrate that far into the wood.
If you cut the board, the center section is usually untreated wood that
would need to be painted with preservatives to minimize rot.

the base of the treated wood now lies on about a 1 inch
buildup of qwikcrete - that should stop much wicking.

Unfortunately, concrete does not stop moisture. That's why plastic vapor
barriers are placed under concrete slabs. Without some kind of barrier
between the concrete and wood, you can potentially still get wicking.
Granted, the PT lumber will probably last longer.

what to do next? I'm not going to put in any plain trim
and have it rot out again.

If you're going to continue with the patch job, I would pick up some PVC or
composite lumber to use for the trim. It's basically plastic, so it can't
rot. It mills and paints just like wood.

I agree with DPB though, the door is installed incorrectly. The door sill
is sitting below the level of the walkway outside. You may be able seal it
off temporarily, but at some point water is going to find it's way under
the door sill (there is usually wood under that metal covering on the door
sill). It would be smart to either raise the door frame, or lower the
sidewalk. I'm betting it would be easier to raise the door frame.

As I mentioned previously, you would be better off to order a new composite
door frame and stop messing around with patches that may or may not last. I
replaced my door frames in about 2-3 hours each. Remove the door from the
hinges, remove any interior trim, cut the exterior caulking with a knife,
cut the nails with a reciprocating saw, and pop out the old frame. Then
it's a simple job to install the new frame.

Best wishes with your repair!

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

Over 11 years, the problem only resulted in about 8 inches of rot on
untreated wood, on only one side of the door frame (the other is in good
shape), beneath which a small hole used to exist that allowed
accumulation of water and wicking.

I've got only 3 hrs of work and $22 spent on this, so far, and I'm just
not seeing the need to tear out the old frame. "dpb" thinks I should
raise the sill, and there's some water control logic in that, but then
you create a trip hazard unless you do a ramp on either side, and you
need a new door.

If it turns out that what I've done creates more problems down the
line, I'll own up to it by posting the situation.

We'll see.

Thanks

"DaveT" wrote in message
On 7/14/2014 1:55 PM, dpb wrote:
On 07/14/2014 2:16 PM, DaveT wrote:

OK - I cleaned out all the rot wood, replaced it with treated deck wood
that presumably won't rot. I raised the base of the treated wood about
an inch higher than the wood went before.

I used exterior primer on all exposed wood, then I used regular
qwikcrete to fill in the existing hole and vertically fill in all open
wood space (the base of the treated wood now lies on about a 1 inch
buildup of qwikcrete - that should stop much wicking).

The photo shows how things look now.

My question is: what to do next? I'm not going to put in any plain trim
and have it rot out again.

Should I encase the whole area using deckwood? Lay on more qwikcrete
vertically up to where the base of the wood trim is now and try to make
it look ok? Or use some flashing to somehow cover the thing up?

I welcome any sensible ideas.


It is hard to see what has been done in the photo with the shears. Based
on the other photos, I would...

1. Fix the wood that has been cut off a few inches up. You could either
replace the whole piece or scarf in a section.

2. Before the wood, I would make a dam at the bottom out of - guess
what? - Bondo.I would make it the same depth and width as the new wood
will be; I would slope it from the inside outward: a ramp.

3. On the bottom of the new wood I would also make a slope so that of the
wood and Bondo are parallel. I would make the new wood about 1/4" shorter
so that its ramp hangs over the one of Bondo. I would build the Bondo
ramp up about 1/2-1: higher than the aluminum threshold.

4. I would apply copper napthanate to the entirety of the new wood (you
can get it at HD, it is used for painting cut ends of PT lumber). When the
copper napthanate is dry - it takes a while - I would prime and paint the
new wood with oil paint, then install.

5. Finally, I would caulk the gap between the two ramps.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 07/16/2014 3:40 PM, DaveT wrote:
On 7/16/2014 2:11 PM, dpb wrote:
On 07/16/2014 1:44 PM, DaveT wrote:
...


OK - I cleaned out all the rot wood, replaced it with treated deck wood
that presumably won't rot. I raised the base of the treated wood about
an inch higher than the wood went before.

I used exterior primer on all exposed wood, then I used regular
qwikcrete to fill in the existing hole and vertically fill in all open
wood space (the base of the treated wood now lies on about a 1 inch
buildup of qwikcrete - that should stop much wicking).

The photo shows how things look now.

My question is: what to do next? I'm not going to put in any plain trim
and have it rot out again.

Should I encase the whole area using deckwood? Lay on more qwikcrete
vertically up to where the base of the wood trim is now and try to make
it look ok? Or use some flashing to somehow cover the thing up?

I welcome any sensible ideas.

Thanks to everybody for all the help so far.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231...n/photostream/


Hmmmm....I can't tell for sure what I'm looking at and the shape of the
fill in that is the dark area. What I had in mind with the concrete
buildup was to form it out a half-inch or so at least in each direction
beyond the dimensions of the brick mould so it became the new base but
having the recess such that the fill in to that or a replacement piece
would fit in as the existing. Looks to me like you've kinda' rounded
over that where you're not going to be able to put in a piece of
moulding now?

I still think you have a basically insurmountable problem with that
being a well at the sill level -- what does the rest of the area around
it look like and where's the overall drainage? I'd still think the real
longterm fix would include raising that sill at least a little above the
rest of the grade.

I'd like some more explanation and a little more of an overview from now
before further more detailed explanations if possible.

It's not a well. During heavy rains with wind there was area below the
rot wood that was allowing water to get in accumulate before it could
drain, and wick up into the wood. It wasn't apparent until I pulled
things apart a few days ago.

No water has ever been able to go over the sill.

Adjacent to the door is a 3x3 ft concrete slab with a low drainage slant
which runs into a pit I dug out a long time ago, with a grating over it.

I think this is going to solve it and I don't want to go the route of
building up a sill and cutting the door to size and finding out that
I'll need a new custom cut door..... etc. The door is standard metal
with some kind of foam interior and I doubt there's any easy way of
modifying it.

If this doesn't work, I would agree with you that the next step is a
raised sill, but I don't want to go there, yet.
....

It'll certainly help but the door looks in pretty bad shape as well as
near as I can tell. It's not so much that the water runs over the sill
as that it collects and tends to retain water along the sill in all the
crevices and crannies and it undoubtedly runs w/ capillary action under
it and to the ends to get into the ends of the jambs and wall sections
to greater or lesser degree.

That there was the hole where the brick mould ran below the grade before
is obviously going to have been a major problem and I agree you'll have
helped that part out significantly.

I agree w/ the geometry DadiOH suggests; it's the same as did I. I
won't argue any further with him over it but Bondo is simply not the
right product for this job.

The only other lesser disagreement I have with his advice is that it is
counter-productive to caulk that seam at the bottom of the brick mould
meeting the base; it's the same idea as the purpose of weep holes in
masonry or not caulking the bottom of siding laps--any moisture that
_does_ get in there needs a way to get out; if it has no way out then it
becomes a dam on the wrong side.

I'm guessing part of the problem in this area is also that it is shaded
a fair amount of the time?

--

"dpb" wrote in message

The only other lesser disagreement I have with his advice is that it is
counter-productive to caulk that seam at the bottom of the brick mould
meeting the base;

I could live with that. In fact, I DID live with that.

I built four French screen doors a few years ago to enclose an open lanai.
I left an uncaulked 1/4" gap at the bottom of the jambs. Do you have any
idea how many different types of critters can get through a 1/4" gap???
The cats liked the gap, wife didn't, no more gap

OP wouldn't have a critter problem in the house if he left a gap uncaulked
so propably better that he does. I might still partially close it with a
piece of backer rod, though, just to keep critters from taking up
residence within the gap itself. That's what I did on my lanai.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 07/17/2014 6:47 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message

The only other lesser disagreement I have with his advice is that it is
counter-productive to caulk that seam at the bottom of the brick mould
meeting the base;

I could live with that. In fact, I DID live with that.

I built four French screen doors a few years ago to enclose an open
lanai. I left an uncaulked 1/4" gap at the bottom of the jambs. ...

I wouldn't leave anything approaching a 1/4" gap...

--

On 7/16/2014 6:12 PM, dpb wrote:
On 07/16/2014 3:40 PM, DaveT wrote:
On 7/16/2014 2:11 PM, dpb wrote:
On 07/16/2014 1:44 PM, DaveT wrote:
...


OK - I cleaned out all the rot wood, replaced it with treated deck wood
that presumably won't rot. I raised the base of the treated wood about
an inch higher than the wood went before.

I used exterior primer on all exposed wood, then I used regular
qwikcrete to fill in the existing hole and vertically fill in all open
wood space (the base of the treated wood now lies on about a 1 inch
buildup of qwikcrete - that should stop much wicking).

The photo shows how things look now.

My question is: what to do next? I'm not going to put in any plain trim
and have it rot out again.

Should I encase the whole area using deckwood? Lay on more qwikcrete
vertically up to where the base of the wood trim is now and try to make
it look ok? Or use some flashing to somehow cover the thing up?

I welcome any sensible ideas.

Thanks to everybody for all the help so far.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231...n/photostream/


Hmmmm....I can't tell for sure what I'm looking at and the shape of the
fill in that is the dark area. What I had in mind with the concrete
buildup was to form it out a half-inch or so at least in each direction
beyond the dimensions of the brick mould so it became the new base but
having the recess such that the fill in to that or a replacement piece
would fit in as the existing. Looks to me like you've kinda' rounded
over that where you're not going to be able to put in a piece of
moulding now?

I still think you have a basically insurmountable problem with that
being a well at the sill level -- what does the rest of the area around
it look like and where's the overall drainage? I'd still think the real
longterm fix would include raising that sill at least a little above the
rest of the grade.

I'd like some more explanation and a little more of an overview from now
before further more detailed explanations if possible.

It's not a well. During heavy rains with wind there was area below the
rot wood that was allowing water to get in accumulate before it could
drain, and wick up into the wood. It wasn't apparent until I pulled
things apart a few days ago.

No water has ever been able to go over the sill.

Adjacent to the door is a 3x3 ft concrete slab with a low drainage slant
which runs into a pit I dug out a long time ago, with a grating over it.

I think this is going to solve it and I don't want to go the route of
building up a sill and cutting the door to size and finding out that
I'll need a new custom cut door..... etc. The door is standard metal
with some kind of foam interior and I doubt there's any easy way of
modifying it.

If this doesn't work, I would agree with you that the next step is a
raised sill, but I don't want to go there, yet.
...

It'll certainly help but the door looks in pretty bad shape as well as
near as I can tell. It's not so much that the water runs over the sill
as that it collects and tends to retain water along the sill in all the
crevices and crannies and it undoubtedly runs w/ capillary action under
it and to the ends to get into the ends of the jambs and wall sections
to greater or lesser degree.

That there was the hole where the brick mould ran below the grade before
is obviously going to have been a major problem and I agree you'll have
helped that part out significantly.

I agree w/ the geometry DadiOH suggests; it's the same as did I. I
won't argue any further with him over it but Bondo is simply not the
right product for this job.

The only other lesser disagreement I have with his advice is that it is
counter-productive to caulk that seam at the bottom of the brick mould
meeting the base; it's the same idea as the purpose of weep holes in
masonry or not caulking the bottom of siding laps--any moisture that
_does_ get in there needs a way to get out; if it has no way out then it
becomes a dam on the wrong side.

I'm guessing part of the problem in this area is also that it is shaded
a fair amount of the time?

It's north facing. It gets sun in the am, it's in the shade in the pm,
but it's wind driven rain and snow pile up that's the real problem.

I'm probably going to fill out the remaining void with qwikrete. The
wood is already primered, does there need to be visqueen or something
like that between the wood and qwikrete?

On 07/17/2014 8:49 AM, DaveT wrote:
....

I'm probably going to fill out the remaining void with qwikrete. The
wood is already primered, does there need to be visqueen or something
like that between the wood and qwikrete?
....

I probably wouldn't bother, but it couldn't hurt I think...

--

On 7/17/2014 8:17 AM, dpb wrote:
On 07/17/2014 8:49 AM, DaveT wrote:
...

I'm probably going to fill out the remaining void with qwikrete. The
wood is already primered, does there need to be visqueen or something
like that between the wood and qwikrete?
...

I probably wouldn't bother, but it couldn't hurt I think...

I'm wondering if an impermeable barrier wouldn't stop moisture from
getting -out- of the wood, similar to leaving a small gap at the base of
wood piece to let it move out. I don't see all that much moisture going
from the qwikrete into the wood. I can't remember ever seeing any
barrier used in house framing where 2x4's lay on concrete.

On 7/17/2014 8:17 AM, dpb wrote:
On 07/17/2014 8:49 AM, DaveT wrote:
...

I'm probably going to fill out the remaining void with qwikrete. The
wood is already primered, does there need to be visqueen or something
like that between the wood and qwikrete?
...

I probably wouldn't bother, but it couldn't hurt I think...

I'm wondering if an impermeable barrier wouldn't stop moisture from
getting -out- of the wood, similar to leaving a small gap at the base of
wood piece to let it move out. I don't see all that much moisture going
from the qwikrete into the wood. I can't remember ever seeing any
barrier used in house framing where 2x4's lay on concrete.

On 07/17/2014 9:46 AM, DaveT wrote:
On 7/17/2014 8:17 AM, dpb wrote:
On 07/17/2014 8:49 AM, DaveT wrote:
...

I'm probably going to fill out the remaining void with qwikrete. The
wood is already primered, does there need to be visqueen or something
like that between the wood and qwikrete?
...

I probably wouldn't bother, but it couldn't hurt I think...

I'm wondering if an impermeable barrier wouldn't stop moisture from
getting -out- of the wood, similar to leaving a small gap at the base of
wood piece to let it move out. I don't see all that much moisture going
from the qwikrete into the wood. I can't remember ever seeing any
barrier used in house framing where 2x4's lay on concrete.


That was basically why I said I probably wouldn't -- as long as there's
not a dam at the bottom to hold I don't think it would really hurt
anything, though, but I don't see that it has much purpose, either.

--

Dave,

Over 11 years, the problem only resulted in about 8 inches of rot on
untreated wood, on only one side of the door frame (the other is in
good shape), beneath which a small hole used to exist that allowed
accumulation of water and wicking.

You had better luck than me. The entry door on our garage, and the back
door of our house both rotted out at the bottom within 5-6 years. The
front door at my in-laws is also rotting out about 5 years after we
installed it.

In all three cases, the doors were exposed to the weather with no
significant roof overhang. The rot always seems to be worse on the latch
side of the door frame. I think that's because the gap around the door is
slightly wider there, so it's easier for water to get in.

I've got only 3 hrs of work and $22 spent on this, so far, and I'm
just not seeing the need to tear out the old frame.

I sincerely hope your repair works for you. When I replaced my door
frame, I discovered more rot to the structure beneath the frame.
Thankfully, I caught it in time so the damage was very minor, but I
wouldn't have seen it unless I took the frame out.

Before I installed the new door frame, I install a jamsill flashing in
the rough opening. This time around I assumed water WILL get past the
door frame, so this ensures it gets directed outside the structure.

"dpb" thinks I should raise the sill, and there's some water control
logic in that, but then you create a trip hazard unless you do a ramp
on either side, and you need a new door.

I recommend raising the entire door frame, not just the sill. You can
reuse the door if you take careful measurements of the hinges and whatnot
when you order a new frame. That's what I did with our doors and it
worked great.

I raised our garage door up about 3 inches, mostly because I need to
raise my sidewalk for better drainage. I knew the header above the door
was way oversized (double 2x10s for the 3 foot opening), so I simply cut
a couple inches from the bottom of the header. Then I poured a small
concrete base to raise the bottom of the frame up a few inches.

Yes, raising the door will create a small trip hazard, but virtually all
homes have a sill you have to step up and over. At the same time, that
prevents any water buildup from just running over the top of the door
sill.

If it turns out that what I've done creates more problems down the
line, I'll own up to it by posting the situation.

Please keep us posted on how it turns out. I would love to see a picture
of your final repair when you get it done.

Take care,

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

I built four French screen doors a few years ago to enclose an open
lanai. I left an uncaulked 1/4" gap at the bottom of the jambs. Do
you have any idea how many different types of critters can get through
a 1/4" gap??? The cats liked the gap, wife didn't, no more gap

As DPB mentioned, you should always leave a gap at the bottom for moisture
to escape. However, 1/4" is a huge gap, the gap should be 1/16" or so.
Enough for moisture to get out, but not enough for bugs to get in.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

Dave,

I can't remember ever seeing any barrier used in house framing
where 2x4's lay on concrete.

If I remember correctly, sill sealer is now required by code where wood
framing (sills primarily) are in contact with the concrete foundation. This
seals gaps between the concrete and wood sill, but it's also a plastic
vapor barrier to preven moisture from wicking up from the foundation.

For something like an interior basement wall it may not be needed "IF"
there is already a moisture barrier beneath the concrete floor. I would
still use pressure treated lumber for that bottom plate in case you have
flooding or something.

Anthony Watson
www.mountainsoftware.com
www.watsondiy.com

"HerHusband" wrote in message

I built four French screen doors a few years ago to enclose an open
lanai. I left an uncaulked 1/4" gap at the bottom of the jambs. Do
you have any idea how many different types of critters can get through
a 1/4" gap??? The cats liked the gap, wife didn't, no more gap

As DPB mentioned, you should always leave a gap at the bottom for
moisture
to escape. However, 1/4" is a huge gap, the gap should be 1/16" or so.
Enough for moisture to get out, but not enough for bugs to get in.

Florida bugs deal in angstrom units

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"dpb" wrote in message
On 07/17/2014 6:47 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"dpb" wrote in message

The only other lesser disagreement I have with his advice is that it
is counter-productive to caulk that seam at the bottom of the brick
mould meeting the base;

I could live with that. In fact, I DID live with that.

I built four French screen doors a few years ago to enclose an open
lanai. I left an uncaulked 1/4" gap at the bottom of the jambs. ...

I wouldn't leave anything approaching a 1/4" gap...

I hear ya. Howver - IME - skinny gaps soon get clogged up with crud.
There are two things my sweet wife abhors: an uncluttered horizontal
surface and housework. And no, I'm not going to unclog them either, got
to much shop/Sketchup work to do.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 07/17/2014 10:20 AM, HerHusband wrote:
....

"dpb" thinks I should raise the sill, and there's some water control
logic in that, but then you create a trip hazard unless you do a ramp
on either side, and you need a new door.

I recommend raising the entire door frame, not just the sill. ...

That is still my primary recommendation; the sill alone was if there was
some other requirement that prevented raising the header or if just
wanted the minimal way out solution.

One place where raising the door overall might be less attractive is if
there are other architectural features in line with the top so that the
mismatch in heights would not be pleasing in appearance.

--

On 7/17/2014 8:17 AM, dpb wrote:
On 07/17/2014 8:49 AM, DaveT wrote:
...

I'm probably going to fill out the remaining void with qwikrete. The
wood is already primered, does there need to be visqueen or something
like that between the wood and qwikrete?
...

I probably wouldn't bother, but it couldn't hurt I think...


I qwikreted the empty area - not pretty but it seems pretty solid.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231755@N06/

I'm thinking of stuccoing the thing to smooth out the surface and make
it blend in. Then I'll put flashing over the wood-qwikrete contact to
keep driven rain from getting into the moisture gap I left there.

How long should I let the qwikrete dry before applying stucco?

"DaveT" wrote in message
On 7/17/2014 8:17 AM, dpb wrote:
On 07/17/2014 8:49 AM, DaveT wrote:
...

I'm probably going to fill out the remaining void with qwikrete. The
wood is already primered, does there need to be visqueen or
something
like that between the wood and qwikrete?
...

I probably wouldn't bother, but it couldn't hurt I think...


I qwikreted the empty area - not pretty but it seems pretty solid.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231755@N06/

I'm thinking of stuccoing the thing to smooth out the surface and make
it blend in. Then I'll put flashing over the wood-qwikrete contact to
keep driven rain from getting into the moisture gap I left there.

How long should I let the qwikrete dry before applying stucco?

Anytime. Since you already have Qwikrete you could use that. Why didn't
you just surface the Qwikrete as you applied it?


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 07/18/2014 9:03 PM, DaveT wrote:
....

I qwikreted the empty area - not pretty but it seems pretty solid.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231755@N06/

I'm thinking of stuccoing the thing to smooth out the surface and make
it blend in. ...

Why on earth didn't you form and pour it as I suggested?????

--

On 7/19/2014 4:47 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"DaveT" wrote in message
On 7/17/2014 8:17 AM, dpb wrote:
On 07/17/2014 8:49 AM, DaveT wrote:
...

I'm probably going to fill out the remaining void with qwikrete. The
wood is already primered, does there need to be visqueen or
something
like that between the wood and qwikrete?
...

I probably wouldn't bother, but it couldn't hurt I think...


I qwikreted the empty area - not pretty but it seems pretty solid.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231755@N06/

I'm thinking of stuccoing the thing to smooth out the surface and make
it blend in. Then I'll put flashing over the wood-qwikrete contact to
keep driven rain from getting into the moisture gap I left there.

How long should I let the qwikrete dry before applying stucco?


Anytime. Since you already have Qwikrete you could use that. Why
didn't you just surface the Qwikrete as you applied it?

How do I change the color of qwikrete to tan like the surrounding stucco?

On 7/19/2014 6:28 AM, dpb wrote:
On 07/18/2014 9:03 PM, DaveT wrote:
...

I qwikreted the empty area - not pretty but it seems pretty solid.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231755@N06/

I'm thinking of stuccoing the thing to smooth out the surface and make
it blend in. ...

Why on earth didn't you form and pour it as I suggested?????

It's shaped the way I want it - it would have taken longer build a form
than it did to just get it done by hand with a couple supports.

And how do you pour into a form that extends up to the wood trim and is
1.5 inches across? As thick as qwikcrete is, I know there aren't any
empty spaces in there because I hand apllied it and stood over it until
setup.

"DaveT" wrote in message
On 7/19/2014 4:47 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"DaveT" wrote in message
On 7/17/2014 8:17 AM, dpb wrote:
On 07/17/2014 8:49 AM, DaveT wrote:
...

I'm probably going to fill out the remaining void with qwikrete.
The wood is already primered, does there need to be visqueen or

something like that between the wood and qwikrete?
...

I probably wouldn't bother, but it couldn't hurt I think...


I qwikreted the empty area - not pretty but it seems pretty solid.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231755@N06/

I'm thinking of stuccoing the thing to smooth out the surface and
make
it blend in. Then I'll put flashing over the wood-qwikrete contact
to
keep driven rain from getting into the moisture gap I left there.

How long should I let the qwikrete dry before applying stucco?


Anytime. Since you already have Qwikrete you could use that. Why
didn't you just surface the Qwikrete as you applied it?

How do I change the color of qwikrete to tan like the surrounding
stucco?

The same way the stucco became tan...color additives to the stuff. Or
paint.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

"dadiOH" wrote in message

"DaveT" wrote in message
On 7/19/2014 4:47 AM, dadiOH wrote:
"DaveT" wrote in message
On 7/17/2014 8:17 AM, dpb wrote:
On 07/17/2014 8:49 AM, DaveT wrote:
...

I'm probably going to fill out the remaining void with
qwikrete.
The wood is already primered, does there need to be visqueen
or

something like that between the wood and qwikrete?
...

I probably wouldn't bother, but it couldn't hurt I think...


I qwikreted the empty area - not pretty but it seems pretty solid.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231755@N06/

I'm thinking of stuccoing the thing to smooth out the surface and
make
it blend in. Then I'll put flashing over the wood-qwikrete contact
to
keep driven rain from getting into the moisture gap I left there.

How long should I let the qwikrete dry before applying stucco?


Anytime. Since you already have Qwikrete you could use that. Why
didn't you just surface the Qwikrete as you applied it?

How do I change the color of qwikrete to tan like the surrounding
stucco?

The same way the stucco became tan...color additives to the stuff. Or
paint.

Actually - having looked at the photos again - I figure it is paint...to
get stucco that light with additives, they would have had to use white
cement.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On 07/19/2014 8:51 AM, DaveT wrote:
On 7/19/2014 6:28 AM, dpb wrote:
On 07/18/2014 9:03 PM, DaveT wrote:
...

I qwikreted the empty area - not pretty but it seems pretty solid.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/126231755@N06/

I'm thinking of stuccoing the thing to smooth out the surface and make
it blend in. ...

Why on earth didn't you form and pour it as I suggested?????

It's shaped the way I want it - it would have taken longer build a form
than it did to just get it done by hand with a couple supports.
....

Well, it's your house...

--

On 07/19/2014 8:51 AM, DaveT wrote:
....

And how do you pour into a form that extends up to the wood trim and is
1.5 inches across? As thick as qwikcrete is, I know there aren't any
empty spaces in there because I hand apllied it and stood over it until
setup.

I'd probably have pulled the existing brick mould and only poured a few
inches above the walk level on each side and finished that as described
before with a sloped top and rounded edge. Then I'd have
repaired/replaced the moulding.

--

On 07/19/2014 1:17 PM, dpb wrote:
On 07/19/2014 8:51 AM, DaveT wrote:
...

And how do you pour into a form that extends up to the wood trim and is
1.5 inches across? As thick as qwikcrete is, ...

"Quikrete" is a trademarked brand name for various premixed concrete
products. How thick they are is totally dependent on the amount of
water used; just like concrete you mix it to the consistency needed for
the pour to be made. In a small area as I suggested with a sand mix, it
would be mixed fairly wet and one would use a poker rod to ensure
filling forms entirely, just like pouring a basement wall in smaller
scale. It would have been about a 30 minute job forming and pouring
each as suggested I'd guess, roughly.

--