I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't work... cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way that I could get this done without any snags?

Anthony wrote:
I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar with
the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw
them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance
when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to.
The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark
where it would enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That
didn't work... cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is
there a way that I could get this done without any snags?

Ok, just off the top of my head...get a better cordless drill.

I'm have troubling picturing any problem with what you are trying to do
(since you didn't post a picture) but I can't think of a reason why you
would be having trouble, other than a drill with not enough power.

(Just yesterday I watched a guy struggling to enlarge a 3/8" hole in a 3/8€�
steel plate with a HF cordless drill. He needed a half inch hole. Must have
taken him 15 minutes and half a can of PB Blaster. Wrong tool and wrong
lubricant. What can I say...)

Anthony wrote:
I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't work... cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way that I could get this done without any snags?

Hi,
I think your drill is not strong enough? It is one shot deal without
pause once you start. I used quite an amount of PT planks for our front
and rear deck at our cabin. . Make sure battery is fully charged. Zap,
zap... screw goes down so effortlessly. When wood is very dry it needs
more torque for sure. Make sure Robertson or Phillips bit is fresh one.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...
Anthony wrote:
I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar with
the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw
them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance
when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to.
The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark
where it would enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That
didn't work... cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is
there a way that I could get this done without any snags?

Ok, just off the top of my head...get a better cordless drill.


or use a corded drill with enough oomph.

On Sunday, July 6, 2014 6:01:44 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
Anthony wrote:

I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't work.... cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way that I could get this done without any snags?



Hi,

I think your drill is not strong enough? It is one shot deal without

pause once you start. I used quite an amount of PT planks for our front

and rear deck at our cabin. . Make sure battery is fully charged. Zap,

zap... screw goes down so effortlessly. When wood is very dry it needs

more torque for sure. Make sure Robertson or Phillips bit is fresh one.

Can you tell me how one can tell if a cordless drill is not strong enough, other than a weak battery? BTW, this one takes the 18v lithium battery

Anthony wrote:
On Sunday, July 6, 2014 6:01:44 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
Anthony wrote:

I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't work... cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way that I could get this done without any snags?



Hi,

I think your drill is not strong enough? It is one shot deal without

pause once you start. I used quite an amount of PT planks for our front

and rear deck at our cabin. . Make sure battery is fully charged. Zap,

zap... screw goes down so effortlessly. When wood is very dry it needs

more torque for sure. Make sure Robertson or Phillips bit is fresh one.

Can you tell me how one can tell if a cordless drill is not strong enough, other than a weak battery? BTW, this one takes the 18v lithium battery

Hi,
Mine is DeWalt 18V one. Has torque adj. knob with lock position.
Deck screws I used has blue-yellowish color.

"Anthony" wrote in message
...
I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar with
the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw them
in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance when
penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The
cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it
would enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't
work... cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way
that I could get this done without any snags?

You should drill wood with the proper size bit. Check this chart for one:
http://www.ou.edu/aoi/images/Wood%20...ll%20Sizes.pdf

You may want to check this out:
http://www.familyhandyman.com/carpen...ectly/view-all

There are tapered bits epecially for wood screws.

Anthony wrote:
On Sunday, July 6, 2014 6:01:44 PM UTC-4, Tony Hwang wrote:
Anthony wrote:

I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar
with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to
screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having
resistance when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to
connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far
as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance, with
a drill bit. That didn't work... cause now, the top part of the screw
met resistance. Is there a way that I could get this done without any snags?



Hi,

I think your drill is not strong enough? It is one shot deal without
pause once you start. I used quite an amount of PT planks for our front
and rear deck at our cabin. . Make sure battery is fully charged. Zap,
zap... screw goes down so effortlessly. When wood is very dry it needs
more torque for sure. Make sure Robertson or Phillips bit is fresh one.

Can you tell me how one can tell if a cordless drill is not strong
enough, other than a weak battery? BTW, this one takes the 18v lithium battery

Sure. Your cordless drill is not strong enough if you can't toenail
pressure treated wood.

I agree with Ralph Mowery on this one. If your cordless drill can't drive the screw in, then predrill a hole for the screw.

Choose your drill bit size according to the "root" diameter of the screw, which is the solid core of the screw. Doing that actually produces a better fastening because you get nearly the same holding power of the screw while putting substantially less splitting force in the wood. Any place that sells fasteners should be able to order X-tra long drill bits in the size you need.

On Sun, 6 Jul 2014 12:53:01 -0700 (PDT), Anthony
wrote:

I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't work... cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way that I could get this done without any snags?

Soap is something I used a lot more of when I didn't own a drill. Are
you using your drill only to screw in the screws, or are you drilling a
hole first, like you should?

I believe some people even drill small holes for nails.

On 07/06/2014 02:53 PM, Anthony wrote:
I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't work... cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way that I could get this done without any snags?




Drill a small pilot hole

On Monday, July 7, 2014 4:45:50 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Sun, 6 Jul 2014 12:53:01 -0700 (PDT), Anthony

wrote:



I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't work... cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way that I could get this done without any snags?



Soap is something I used a lot more of when I didn't own a drill. Are

you using your drill only to screw in the screws, or are you drilling a

hole first, like you should?



I believe some people even drill small holes for nails.

Like I said in my OP i did get the screw through the bulk pw and a half inch ot the screw is showing ...my problem is getting that part of the screw into the other pw. I predrilled a hole there and now its a matter of holding the wood which is awkward, to meet that pre-drilled hole . In the meantime, the unthreaded part of the screw is not able to go through ..was I suppose to 'soap' that part too?

On Mon, 7 Jul 2014 06:31:46 -0700 (PDT), Anthony
wrote:

On Monday, July 7, 2014 4:45:50 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Sun, 6 Jul 2014 12:53:01 -0700 (PDT), Anthony

wrote:



I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't work... cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way that I could get this done without any snags?



Soap is something I used a lot more of when I didn't own a drill. Are

you using your drill only to screw in the screws, or are you drilling a

hole first, like you should?



I believe some people even drill small holes for nails.

Like I said in my OP

I found your OP hard to understand. You don't have to reply, but I'll
mark things in this post I find hard to understand.


i did get the screw through the bulk pw

bulk? pw?

and a half inch ot the screw is showing

after coming out the bottom or still showing because you can't get the
screw in all the way?

...my problem is getting that part of the screw into the other pw. I predrilled a hole there and now its a matter of holding the wood which is awkward, to meet that pre-drilled hole .

Not sure why it should be awkward. Isn't the wood a whole board that
will just lie there?

In the meantime, the unthreaded part of the screw is not able to go through ..was I suppose to 'soap' that part too?

If the wood is that hard, drill one smaller hole that goes deep and a
slightly bigger hole, probably only in the first piece of wood, to take
the shank. Just drill as deep as the shank goes.

Someone mentioned tapered drill bits. With only a little time to
look, I found
http://www.harborfreight.com/22-piec...-set-7608.html
but this doesn't have the wider part for the shank. But others have
both sections and a countersink. This one does have the built-in
countersink.

On 7/7/2014 8:31 AM, Anthony wrote:
....

Like I said in my OP i did get the screw through the bulk pw and a
half inch ot the screw is showing ...my problem is getting that part
of the screw into the other pw. I predrilled a hole there and now its
a matter of holding the wood which is awkward, to meet that
pre-drilled hole . In the meantime, the unthreaded part of the screw
is not able to go through ..was I suppose to 'soap' that part too?

While you don't say what the two pieces are, sounds like

a) you simply don't have enough torque in your driver, and

b) to compensate, you need to predrill a pilot hole for the shank in the
first piece--a screw will not pull the piece tight to the second if the
two aren't tightly together to begin with because the threads remain at
the same relative spacing. Only the fortuitous case of stripping the
threads in the top piece while the bottom ones hold will bring the two
together when the head comes in contact; and that doesn't happen often
enough to count on.

It's rare, however, with PT lumber it's hard enough to be a problem
unless it's very old material in one or the other pieces--new stuff from
the 'yard is generally full of water and quite soft.

Or, of course, just nail 'em instead...

OBTW, you don't mention the style of screw you're using -- that and what
the actual work is could help to envision the problem.

--

A photo or two would make this whole thing a lot easier to understand, as I still can't figure out what your problem is escept for an underpowered drill.

philo wrote:
On 07/06/2014 02:53 PM, Anthony wrote:
I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar
with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to
screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having
resistance when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to
connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far
as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance,
with a drill bit. That didn't work... cause now, the top part of the
screw met resistance. Is there a way that I could get this done
without any snags?




Drill a small pilot hole
Hi,
My idea of using drill is to save time. If pilot holes have to be
drilled for every screw to fasten, that defeats the purpose of using
drill. What's the point of owning a tool which is not up to the task at
hand? If it is for one time use, one can rent proper one at a small expense.

No, predrill one hole and slide a bamboo shiskabob skewer into that hole. (You can buy bamboo shiskabob skewers at any supermarket.) The skewer will hold the hole in one piece of wood aligned with the hole in the other.

Now, predrill a hole on the opposite side and drive a screw in.

Pull the shishkabob skewer and drive a screw in from the first side.

Another option would be to use a piece of wood as a "spacer". Put the spacer in place against the last piece of wood you toe-"nailed". Predrill one hole on one side so that when you drive the screw in it pulls the wood tight to the spacer. Now, pull the spacer out and predrill a hole on the opposite side of the wood you're toe-screwing.

On 07/07/2014 05:58 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
philo wrote:
On 07/06/2014 02:53 PM, Anthony wrote:
I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar
with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to
screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having
resistance when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to
connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far
as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance,
with a drill bit. That didn't work... cause now, the top part of the
screw met resistance. Is there a way that I could get this done
without any snags?




Drill a small pilot hole
Hi,
My idea of using drill is to save time. If pilot holes have to be
drilled for every screw to fasten, that defeats the purpose of using
drill. What's the point of owning a tool which is not up to the task at
hand? If it is for one time use, one can rent proper one at a small
expense.




Good point, he must be using a defective drill, I only drill pilot holes
to prevent the wood from cracking, I can certainly shoot a hole through
just about anything.

philo wrote:
On 07/07/2014 05:58 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
philo wrote:
On 07/06/2014 02:53 PM, Anthony wrote:
I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar
with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to
screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having
resistance when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to
connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far
as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance,
with a drill bit. That didn't work... cause now, the top part of the
screw met resistance. Is there a way that I could get this done
without any snags?




Drill a small pilot hole
Hi,
My idea of using drill is to save time. If pilot holes have to be
drilled for every screw to fasten, that defeats the purpose of using
drill. What's the point of owning a tool which is not up to the task at
hand? If it is for one time use, one can rent proper one at a small
expense.




Good point, he must be using a defective drill, I only drill pilot holes
to prevent the wood from cracking, I can certainly shoot a hole through
just about anything.
Hi,
Only time to use pilot hole is when doing finishing carpentry with
exotic expensive wood..... Better be careful with them, LOL!

On 07/07/2014 06:40 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
p
Hi,
My idea of using drill is to save time. If pilot holes have to be
drilled for every screw to fasten, that defeats the purpose of using
drill. What's the point of owning a tool which is not up to the task at
hand? If it is for one time use, one can rent proper one at a small
expense.




Good point, he must be using a defective drill, I only drill pilot holes
to prevent the wood from cracking, I can certainly shoot a hole through
just about anything.
Hi,
Only time to use pilot hole is when doing finishing carpentry with
exotic expensive wood..... Better be careful with them, LOL!



Most any wood can crack...so I generally use two drills if possible

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 04:45:50 -0400, micky
wrote:

On Sun, 6 Jul 2014 12:53:01 -0700 (PDT), Anthony
wrote:

I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't work... cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way that I could get this done without any snags?

Soap is something I used a lot more of when I didn't own a drill. Are
you using your drill only to screw in the screws, or are you drilling a
hole first, like you should?

I believe some people even drill small holes for nails.

And of course you should just use a drill with a cord. So much easier.
You can buy a 100' extension cord for less than the price of a good
cordless drill and the extension cord has lots of other uses too.

If you're putting in a deck or a floor, you don't need 100 feet. You
can use almost anything.

If there is no power where you are, get somone to turn it on.

(I recently found a receptacle here, outside in a box, that must have
been used during construction when there were no houses with outlets.)

On Mon, 07 Jul 2014 21:06:18 -0500, philo* wrote:



Most any wood can crack...so I generally use two drills if possible

I recently bought a watermelon that was cracked.

And when I put a knife in the rind, it cracked more.

But tasted good, and never split in half.

I have a very high quality Milwaukee.

I just had a small project where I had to "toenail" into hardwood and
nope, those screws will just not go in...it's definitely not a "lack of
power in the drill situation" . Though if I were "toenailing" into soft
wood it would have worked...I think those screws really need to be drive
straight-in to get a bite.

I had to drill a pilot hole.


As I mentioned before, a pilot hole is a good idea to prevent the wood
from cracking.

No, don't buy a 100 foot extension cord.

Buy three 25 foot extension cords and a couple of 10 foot cords instead.
That way when you only need a short cord you don't have to bother with a long cord.

On Monday, July 7, 2014 5:26:49 PM UTC-4, micky wrote:
On Mon, 7 Jul 2014 06:31:46 -0700 (PDT), Anthony

wrote:



On Monday, July 7, 2014 4:45:50 AM UTC-4, micky wrote:

On Sun, 6 Jul 2014 12:53:01 -0700 (PDT), Anthony



wrote:







I'm trying to toenail a couple of galvanized 2 screws. I am familiar with the process of sliding soap on the threads to make it easier to screw them in. I get thru with the points showing through but having resistance when penetrating the side pressure wood that I want to connect them to. The cordless drill just can't take it. I went as far as making a mark where it would enter if there were no resistance, with a drill bit. That didn't work.... cause now, the top part of the screw met resistance. Is there a way that I could get this done without any snags?







Soap is something I used a lot more of when I didn't own a drill. Are



you using your drill only to screw in the screws, or are you drilling a



hole first, like you should?







I believe some people even drill small holes for nails.



Like I said in my OP



I found your OP hard to understand. You don't have to reply, but I'll

mark things in this post I find hard to understand.





i did get the screw through the bulk pw



bulk? pw?



and a half inch ot the screw is showing



after coming out the bottom or still showing because you can't get the

screw in all the way?



...my problem is getting that part of the screw into the other pw. I predrilled a hole there and now its a matter of holding the wood which is awkward, to meet that pre-drilled hole .



Not sure why it should be awkward. Isn't the wood a whole board that

will just lie there?



In the meantime, the unthreaded part of the screw is not able to go through ..was I suppose to 'soap' that part too?



If the wood is that hard, drill one smaller hole that goes deep and a

slightly bigger hole, probably only in the first piece of wood, to take

the shank. Just drill as deep as the shank goes.



Someone mentioned tapered drill bits. With only a little time to

look, I found

http://www.harborfreight.com/22-piec...-set-7608.html

but this doesn't have the wider part for the shank. But others have

both sections and a countersink. This one does have the built-in

countersink.

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q...vel8/screw.jpg

Should have uploaded this at the beginning. Sorry..PW should have been PT ( pressure treated )

"Anthony" wrote in message
...
http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q...vel8/screw.jpg

Should have uploaded this at the beginning. Sorry..PW should have been
PT ( pressure treated )

If you do not drill the first board it will be difficult for the boards to
pull up tight. You have to drill the first board with a large enough hole
the screw threads do not cut into the wood and you let the head of the screw
keep the wood from pulling back.

nestork wrote:
micky;3257273 Wrote:

You can buy a 100' extension cord for less than the price of a good
cordless drill and the extension cord has lots of other uses too.


No, don't buy a 100 foot extension cord.

Buy three 25 foot extension cords and a couple of 10 foot cords
instead.
That way when you only need a short cord you don't have to bother with a
long cord.




If you plan to run 100' of extension cord, I suggest 12g, maybe even 10,
but probably not 14.

Of course, who needs a bunch of 25' 10g extension cords? Overkill in most
cases, but a good idea when you need 100'.

(Let the discussion begin!)

On Tuesday, July 8, 2014 10:52:14 AM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
"Anthony" wrote in message

...

http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q...vel8/screw.jpg



Should have uploaded this at the beginning. Sorry..PW should have been

PT ( pressure treated )



If you do not drill the first board it will be difficult for the boards to

pull up tight. You have to drill the first board with a large enough hole

the screw threads do not cut into the wood and you let the head of the screw

keep the wood from pulling back.

I did pre drill the main hole, but of course it was smaller than the screw. Are you saying I should have made a larger pre drill hole? I would have no problem in unscrewing it and make a larger drill hole?

"Anthony" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, July 8, 2014 10:52:14 AM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
If you do not drill the first board it will be difficult for the boards
to

pull up tight. You have to drill the first board with a large enough
hole

the screw threads do not cut into the wood and you let the head of the
screw

keep the wood from pulling back.

I did pre drill the main hole, but of course it was smaller than the
screw. are you saying I should have made a larger pre drill hole? I would
have no problem in unscrewing it and make a larger drill hole?

You need to drill the hole on the top board large enough that the screw
threads do not touch it. If you do not do it this way, whatever gap you
have in the boards when the screw goes into the lower board will tend to
stay there unless by chance you strip out the threads in the upper board.
The screw should hold by the head and not depend on the threads in the board
where the head of the screw is.

In effect you are only screwing into one of the boards.

On Tue, 8 Jul 2014 21:43:17 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

nestork wrote:
micky;3257273 Wrote:

You can buy a 100' extension cord for less than the price of a good
cordless drill and the extension cord has lots of other uses too.


No, don't buy a 100 foot extension cord.

Buy three 25 foot extension cords and a couple of 10 foot cords
instead.
That way when you only need a short cord you don't have to bother with a
long cord.




If you plan to run 100' of extension cord, I suggest 12g, maybe even 10,
but probably not 14.

Of course, who needs a bunch of 25' 10g extension cords? Overkill in most
cases, but a good idea when you need 100'.

(Let the discussion begin!)

My point was that he can get to the farthest corner of his house and
probably his yard with an extension cord, that 100 feet is no problem,
and ftm for the small amount a drill uses, I'm sure 200 feet is no
problem. I assumed he already had shorter extension cords.

On 07/08/2014 07:35 PM, micky wrote:


snip


If you plan to run 100' of extension cord, I suggest 12g, maybe even 10,
but probably not 14.

Of course, who needs a bunch of 25' 10g extension cords? Overkill in most
cases, but a good idea when you need 100'.

(Let the discussion begin!)

My point was that he can get to the farthest corner of his house and
probably his yard with an extension cord, that 100 feet is no problem,
and ftm for the small amount a drill uses, I'm sure 200 feet is no
problem. I assumed he already had shorter extension cords.



For the 38 years I had been on the job, I always used a 100 ft extension
cord. #14 is fine, there was no significant voltage drop even using a
heavy duty 1/2" drill.

In those 38 years, there was never a time the cord was too short to get
to the work area, but a number of times, it /just/ made it.


One day I went to a warehouse and a contractor in there apparently did
not believe in extension cords...they were using a /gasoline/ fueled
generator. Though the warehouse was huge enough that no one got
carbon-monoxide poisoning, it was a really stupid thing to do.
Eventually a supervisor told them not to use it.

On Wed, 09 Jul 2014 05:48:30 -0500, philoÂ* wrote:

On 07/08/2014 07:35 PM, micky wrote:


snip


If you plan to run 100' of extension cord, I suggest 12g, maybe even 10,
but probably not 14.

Of course, who needs a bunch of 25' 10g extension cords? Overkill in most
cases, but a good idea when you need 100'.

(Let the discussion begin!)

My point was that he can get to the farthest corner of his house and
probably his yard with an extension cord, that 100 feet is no problem,
and ftm for the small amount a drill uses, I'm sure 200 feet is no
problem. I assumed he already had shorter extension cords.



For the 38 years I had been on the job, I always used a 100 ft extension
cord. #14 is fine, there was no significant voltage drop even using a
heavy duty 1/2" drill.

In those 38 years, there was never a time the cord was too short to get
to the work area, but a number of times, it /just/ made it.


One day I went to a warehouse and a contractor in there apparently did
not believe in extension cords...they were using a /gasoline/ fueled
generator. Though the warehouse was huge enough that no one got
carbon-monoxide poisoning, it was a really stupid thing to do.
Eventually a supervisor told them not to use it.

I have a 100' that I haven't used since I dumped my electric lawn
edger. Used it when I had an electric mower, edger, hedge trimmer.
It was connected to a 50'.
I've used the 50' since for tools when I need the reach. String it
through the closest house window, or through a garage door and it
reaches everywhere I would need it.
The 100' still stays rolled on the garden reel.
The 50' is much easier to handle, and I can add a couple 20's to it if
I needed to.
So unless you're a contractor or have electric lawn equipment, a 100'
is overkill. But if you think you need it, buy it.
It was nice for mowing the lawn and edging.

On Tue, 8 Jul 2014 07:32:22 -0700 (PDT), Anthony
wrote:



http://i349.photobucket.com/albums/q...vel8/screw.jpg

Should have uploaded this at the beginning. Sorry..PW should have been PT ( pressure treated )

I've done a lot of baseboard and never to toe-nailed it except when a
stud wasn't available. Then I use finishing nails.
Why are you using screws?

On Tue, 8 Jul 2014 20:10:42 -0400, "Ralph Mowery"
wrote:


"Anthony" wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, July 8, 2014 10:52:14 AM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
If you do not drill the first board it will be difficult for the boards
to

pull up tight. You have to drill the first board with a large enough
hole

the screw threads do not cut into the wood and you let the head of the
screw

keep the wood from pulling back.

I did pre drill the main hole, but of course it was smaller than the
screw. are you saying I should have made a larger pre drill hole? I would
have no problem in unscrewing it and make a larger drill hole?

You need to drill the hole on the top board large enough that the screw
threads do not touch it. If you do not do it this way, whatever gap you
have in the boards when the screw goes into the lower board will tend to
stay there

I get your point, but in case the OP hasn't, Imagine a long machine
screw and you screw a nut on half an inch down the screw. Call this
the first nut. Then you screw a second nut on, so the two nuts are a
half inch apart. Then you hold both nuts between your thumb and your
forefinger and turn the screw clockwise. Both nuts will get closer to
the head but they will stay 1/2" from each other. When the first nut
reaches the head of the screw or the end of the threads, the screw won't
turn anymore and the second nut will still be a 1/2 inch from being
tight, and were there anything between the two nuts, it would not be
tightly gripped.

The first nut (that is, the hole in the first piece of wood) needs to be
big enough that it can move up and down the screw without needing to
turn the screw. The hole in the first piece, the top piece, of wood
needs to be bigger than the threads in the screw.


unless by chance you strip out the threads in the upper board.
The screw should hold by the head and not depend on the threads in the board
where the head of the screw is.

In effect you are only screwing into one of the boards.