I'm a big believer in doing things the right way, or, at least knowing
what the right way is (so that the next time you do it the right way).

So I ask what seems like a very basic question:
Q: Does it matter which direction I put these 2" PVC unions on?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12915207.jpg

On May 12, 6:05*pm, Danny D wrote:
I'm a big believer in doing things the right way, or, at least knowing
what the right way is (so that the next time you do it the right way).

So I ask what seems like a very basic question:
*Q: Does it matter which direction I put these 2" PVC unions on?
* *http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...2915207.jpgAds not by this site

No.

On Sun, 12 May 2013 17:05:29 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

I'm a big believer in doing things the right way, or, at least knowing
what the right way is (so that the next time you do it the right way).

So I ask what seems like a very basic question:
Q: Does it matter which direction I put these 2" PVC unions on?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12915207.jpg

They look fine to me. Dry fit the pipes back to the pumps...

Clean that PVC insert of glue (bottom right) before you glue it in.

+1

If it mattered, then the manufacturer of the union would mold an arrow into the side of the union indicating the direction of flow; just like they do on check valves.

You see arrows like that on globe valves (and I'd expect needle valves too)cuz the disk is meant to close against the flow. You don't see them on gate valves, butterfly valves or ball valves cuz in those cases the closure isn't affected by the direction of flow.

On 5/12/2013 10:05 AM, Danny D wrote:
I'm a big believer in doing things the right way, or, at least knowing
what the right way is (so that the next time you do it the right way).

So I ask what seems like a very basic question:
Q: Does it matter which direction I put these 2" PVC unions on?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12915207.jpg

The black and white one seems to be mismatched. I learned the hard way
that even though they seem to go together, the threads may not fully
mate, allowing the outside ring to slip when tightened.

Also, if the "O" ring is in the removable part, you will be able to
better keep track of it when it comes out of the groove.

A union that is vertical should have the ring on the upper part. that
way gravity will help getting the threads started.

Otherwise, as stated, not much difference.

Paul

On May 12, 4:06*pm, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 5/12/2013 10:05 AM, Danny D wrote: I'm a big believer in doing things the right way, or, at least knowing
what the right way is (so that the next time you do it the right way).

So I ask what seems like a very basic question:
* Q: Does it matter which direction I put these 2" PVC unions on?
* * *http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12915207.jpg

The black and white one seems to be mismatched. I learned the hard way
that even though they seem to go together, the threads may not fully
mate, allowing the outside ring to slip when tightened.

Doh! I warned him about that a few days ago. Said I
wasn't sure that half of one union would mate correctly
with half of another, because they may not be designed
exactly the same. I've never tried to do that because
I'd be concerned about it leaking. And also you have
the other half of the new union whether you use it or not.

The PVC unions I buy here don't use machined mating surfaces to make a water proof seal like iron and brass unions do.

The PVC unions sold here simply have an O-ring in them, and that O-ring makes for a more reliable seal than any machined surface. There's a groove on both sides of the union that O-ring sits in, so as long as that groove on each side is made for the same size O-ring, it should work fine.

I'm gonna guess that every PVC union uses an O-ring. And, in my humble opinion, PVC and ABS P-traps should as well.

On Sun, 12 May 2013 14:39:30 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On May 12, 4:06*pm, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 5/12/2013 10:05 AM, Danny D wrote: I'm a big believer in doing things the right way, or, at least knowing
what the right way is (so that the next time you do it the right way).

So I ask what seems like a very basic question:
* Q: Does it matter which direction I put these 2" PVC unions on?
* * *http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12915207.jpg

The black and white one seems to be mismatched. I learned the hard way
that even though they seem to go together, the threads may not fully
mate, allowing the outside ring to slip when tightened.

Doh! I warned him about that a few days ago. Said I
wasn't sure that half of one union would mate correctly
with half of another, because they may not be designed
exactly the same. I've never tried to do that because
I'd be concerned about it leaking. And also you have
the other half of the new union whether you use it or not.

He could still get the all black** union at a plumbing supply store,
right?

I just looked for a black 2" checkvalve and had no trouble finding
one.

**I can't remember if black is PVC, APS, JPG, or whatever.

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:06:13 -0700, Paul Drahn wrote:

A union that is vertical should have the ring on the upper part.

Makes sense.

Since all mine were horizontal, I simply arbitrarily faced them
all in the same direction (as each other).

That way, I can swap pumps if I ever need to.
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918658.jpg

On Sun, 12 May 2013 14:39:30 -0700, wrote:

I warned him about that a few days ago. Said I
wasn't sure that half of one union would mate correctly
with half of another

I did read that; and I do agree that I'm putting half an
old union with half a new union.

Time will tell.

Now that the hardest part (the parts at the Jandy valves) has
been cut out, repairs on all other sections should be much
simpler, in case they leak.

http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918665.jpg

On Sun, 12 May 2013 21:06:57 -0400, micky wrote:

**I can't remember if black is PVC, APS, JPG, or whatever.

The black is black paint on top of white schedule 40 plumbing.

The reason for the black paint is to prevent UV degradation of
the PVC pipes.

I looked it up a while back, and, it turns out that the pipes
get "brittle" in the sun; so they're almost always painted
black if they're outside (like mine are) in the blazing sun.

Here you can see the white pipe hasn't been painted black
yet as I just finished the plumbing today ...

http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918721.jpg

On Sun, 12 May 2013 20:53:33 +0200, nestork wrote:

If it mattered, then the manufacturer of the union would mold an arrow
into the side of the union indicating the direction of flow; just like
they do on check valves.

This makes sense.

BTW, I just noticed that what I *thought* were schedule 40 unions
were actually schedule 80 unions:

http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918715.jpg

I wonder why these schedule 80 unions are white and not gray?

On Sun, 12 May 2013 11:35:20 -0700, Oren wrote:

They look fine to me. Dry fit the pipes back to the pumps...

Do you think I should lubricate the union with pool lube?
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918714.jpg

Clean that PVC insert of glue (bottom right) before you glue it in

Following the huckleberry trail, I certainly took your advice to heart!

I bought 1" wide 120 grit aluminum oxide sanding cloth:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918727.jpg

I took pains to keep the results as perfectly round as possible:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918728.jpg

Even so, I'm a bit worried because the 2.5" coupling is a tad too large:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918726.jpg

But, I had called Jandy & they said simply to use a lot of glue!
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918729.jpg

Adding the reducing bushing, the plumbing is back to original 2" size:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918730.jpg

On Mon, 13 May 2013 02:30:40 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 21:06:57 -0400, micky wrote:

**I can't remember if black is PVC, APS, JPG, or whatever.

The black is black paint on top of white schedule 40 plumbing.

Ah, you mean in the pictures in this thread. At first I thought you
meant all black 2" plastic pipe was white pipe painted black.

The reason for the black paint is to prevent UV degradation of
the PVC pipes.

I looked it up a while back, and, it turns out that the pipes
get "brittle" in the sun; so they're almost always painted
black if they're outside (like mine are) in the blazing sun.

Here you can see the white pipe hasn't been painted black
yet as I just finished the plumbing today ...

http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918721.jpg

On Mon, 13 May 2013 04:06:36 -0400, micky wrote:

Ah, you mean in the pictures in this thread. At first I thought you
meant all black 2" plastic pipe was white pipe painted black.

I'm no expert, but my pool equipment is white schedule 40 PVC pipe
painted black to protect it from the sun.

When I went to Home Depot, all the schedule 40 PVC was white; the
schedule 80 PVC was mostly gray (the schedule 80 unions were white);
and the drain pipe was black.

Not sure if that holds true elsewhere though ...

On May 12, 9:06*pm, micky wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 14:39:30 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On May 12, 4:06 pm, Paul Drahn wrote:
On 5/12/2013 10:05 AM, Danny D wrote: I'm a big believer in doing things the right way, or, at least knowing
what the right way is (so that the next time you do it the right way).

So I ask what seems like a very basic question:
Q: Does it matter which direction I put these 2" PVC unions on?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12915207.jpg

The black and white one seems to be mismatched. I learned the hard way
that even though they seem to go together, the threads may not fully
mate, allowing the outside ring to slip when tightened.

Doh! *I warned him about that a few days ago. *Said I
wasn't sure that half of one union would mate correctly
with half of another, because they may not be designed
exactly the same. * *I've never tried to do that because
I'd be concerned about it leaking. *And also you have
the other half of the new union whether you use it or not.

He could still get the all black** union at a plumbing supply store,
right?

I just looked for a black 2" checkvalve and had no trouble finding
one.

**I can't remember if black is PVC, APS, JPG, or whatever.

That isn't the issue. He has a PVC union. The issue is that
one half of a 10 year old union from manufacturer A may not
seal correctly with one half of a new union he buys today from
manufacturer B. It might work, it might not. Unless it's difficult
for some reason to replace the whole union, I don't see why
anyone would screw around. And you already have the other
half paid for, because you can't buy half a union.








- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On May 12, 10:30*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 21:06:57 -0400, micky wrote:
**I can't remember if black is PVC, APS, JPG, or whatever.

The black is black paint on top of white schedule 40 plumbing.

The reason for the black paint is to prevent UV degradation of
the PVC pipes.

I looked it up a while back, and, it turns out that the pipes
get "brittle" in the sun; so they're almost always painted
black if they're outside (like mine are) in the blazing sun.

It seems to me a curious thing that they paint them black.
Not only is black ugly, but it absorbs more heat from the sun.
White paint would offer UV protection, look better, and
absorb less heat. That's what I use where that is an issue.

On Mon, 13 May 2013 06:37:41 -0700, wrote:

It seems to me a curious thing that they paint them black.

You have an interesting point there, in that it's the 'paint' and
not the 'color' of that paint that protects PVC from UV radiation.

Dunno why mine are black ... but ... since they are ... I'm going
to get out my license to prove I'm over 18 and have them unlock
the double padlocked spray paint cage at Home Depot when it's all
working and buttoned up ... and grab me some flat black stuff to go!

On Mon, 13 May 2013 06:31:45 -0700, wrote:

The issue is that one half of a 10 year old union from manufacturer A
may not seal correctly with one half of a new union he buys today from
manufacturer B.

I understand.

If it leaks, I'll replace that part of the plumbing, since, with the
unions, everything should be easy.

If it's any consolation, that unused "yellowed" union is, in fact,
the same age and batch as the existing "blackened" union is.

http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12921651.jpg

To explain further, about a year or so ago, I had replaced a broken
Jandy valve after draining the pool, and at that time, I added the one
now-blackened union on the outlet of the pump. I knew that a union
only on the outlet pipe without a union on the inlet pipe was useless,
but I was adding it knowing that someday (like yesterday) I would
be adding a union to the inlet side of the pump.

I had bought two unions at the time, so I left the unused union
outside in a plastic bucket. Over time, that unused union yellowed.

So, the good news is that the unions are 'matched' in time and batch;
the bad news is that one sat outside in the hot sun for a year.

I'll let you know if it leaks; but if it does, it will be easy to
replace, since the hard part was always the inlet side, and not
the outlet side.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12921662.jpg

Note: If it wasn't easy to replace, you can rest assured I would
have used all new equipment!

On Mon, 13 May 2013 02:56:20 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 11:35:20 -0700, Oren wrote:

They look fine to me. Dry fit the pipes back to the pumps...

Do you think I should lubricate the union with pool lube?
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918714.jpg


Just lube the O-ring. If fact, the O-rings on the strainer and volute
should be lubed when you put them back together.

(my new pump filter O-ring does not require any lube. The lube is
impregnated into the rubber)

Clean that PVC insert of glue (bottom right) before you glue it in

Following the huckleberry trail, I certainly took your advice to heart!

I bought 1" wide 120 grit aluminum oxide sanding cloth:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918727.jpg

I took pains to keep the results as perfectly round as possible:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918728.jpg


+1

Even so, I'm a bit worried because the 2.5" coupling is a tad too large:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918726.jpg


Why you cut so close to the Jandy valve ... I had said before to cut
close to the pump and keep some pipe for a regular fitting there.
..
But, I had called Jandy & they said simply to use a lot of glue!
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918729.jpg


Should have left some pipe sticking out, for just a single coupling -
done.

Adding the reducing bushing, the plumbing is back to original 2" size:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918730.jpg

One coupling would have avoided using two pieces, adding a place for
potential leaks.

Proceed :-\

On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:02:08 -0700, Oren wrote:

the O-rings on the strainer and volute
should be lubed when you put them back together.

Strainer? Volute?

Googling ...
Volute: noun, A spiral scroll, Forming a spiral curve or curves

So I assume the strainer is the pool pump basket, which has an
o-ring at the top under the cover, which I do lube with the
pool lube.

And, the volute is most likely the clamp-on connection where
the impeller does its work; so, yes, I do lube that also with
pool lube.

Thanks for the recommendation (and vocabulary).

On May 13, 11:02*am, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2013 02:56:20 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 11:35:20 -0700, Oren wrote:

They look fine to me. Dry fit the pipes back to the pumps...

Do you think I should lubricate the union with pool lube?
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918714.jpg

Just lube the O-ring. *If fact, the O-rings on the strainer and volute
should be lubed when you put them back together.

(my new pump filter O-ring does not require any lube. *The lube is
impregnated into the rubber)

Clean that PVC insert of glue (bottom right) before you glue it in

Following the huckleberry trail, I certainly took your advice to heart!

I bought 1" wide 120 grit aluminum oxide sanding cloth:
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918727.jpg

I took pains to keep the results as perfectly round as possible:
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918728.jpg

+1

Even so, I'm a bit worried because the 2.5" coupling is a tad too large:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918726.jpg


I dont't know what that measurement is supposed to show.
If the point is that it's not showing 2.5", it's not supposed to.
The 2.5" is the inside diameter of the PIPE that the fitting
mates with. It's not the inside diameter of the fitting which
is going to be a lot larger. The real question is if it fits
snuggly when it's put on, which I hope it does.



Why you cut so close to the Jandy valve ... I had said before to cut
close to the pump and keep some pipe for a regular fitting there.
.


He cut it flush with the valve because the coupling is going
OVER the jandy valve. He doesn't want any pipe left outside
the valve. It was either go over it, or get the special tool to
bore out the pipe already glued inside the valve.



But, I had called Jandy & they said simply to use a lot of glue!

I don't see why there should be a lot of play in this. If that
Jandy valve is designed to work with 2.5" fittings, then a 2.5"
fitting should fit over it just like any PVC pipe connection.
If it doesn't and there is a lot of play, then glue isn't the
answer. You might get away with it, but that joint will not
be nearly as strong as it's supposed to be.

On Mon, 13 May 2013 06:37:41 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On May 12, 10:30*pm, Danny D wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 21:06:57 -0400, micky wrote:
**I can't remember if black is PVC, APS, JPG, or whatever.

The black is black paint on top of white schedule 40 plumbing.

The reason for the black paint is to prevent UV degradation of
the PVC pipes.

I looked it up a while back, and, it turns out that the pipes
get "brittle" in the sun; so they're almost always painted
black if they're outside (like mine are) in the blazing sun.

It seems to me a curious thing that they paint them black.
Not only is black ugly, but it absorbs more heat from the sun.
White paint would offer UV protection, look better, and
absorb less heat. That's what I use where that is an issue.


Mine are painted gray. The vertical solar pipes are a match color to
the stucco color on the house. Same for the pipes on the roof.
Equipment on the ground in a well shaded area most of the day.

I've read that any latex paint can be used to prevent UV damage.

I'd get a spray can for plastics, like Krylon.

On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:02:08 -0700, Oren wrote:

Why you cut so close to the Jandy valve ... I had said before to cut
close to the pump and keep some pipe for a regular fitting there.

There was no 'pipe'.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12767439.jpg

On the filter Jandy valve, what *looked* like a pipe was really
a whole bunch of couplings inserted butt-to-butt with the actual
two-inch pipe hiding inside.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12771692.jpg

On the cleaner Jandy valve, it was just butt-to-butt elbows.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814636.jpg

I would have *loved* to have some 2-inch pipe to simply connect
a fitting to - but - there were no "pipes" to be found there!

That was the entire problem, in the first place, which had
prevented a simple repair, over the years (by me or the previous
owner).

On Mon, 13 May 2013 13:53:44 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Mon, 13 May 2013 06:37:41 -0700, wrote:

It seems to me a curious thing that they paint them black.

You have an interesting point there, in that it's the 'paint' and
not the 'color' of that paint that protects PVC from UV radiation.

Dunno why mine are black ... but ... since they are ... I'm going
to get out my license to prove I'm over 18 and have them unlock
the double padlocked spray paint cage at Home Depot when it's all
working and buttoned up ... and grab me some flat black stuff to go!

http://www.krylon.com/products/fusion_for_plastic/

On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:02:08 -0700, Oren wrote:

One coupling would have avoided using two pieces,
adding a place for potential leaks.

Just to clarify, I had *wanted* a single coupling:
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12799991.png

But I was leery of sizing off the Internet; so I tried every
plumbing supply and irrigation supply that I knew of.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12799954.png

None had a single 2.5-inch-to-2-inch coupling; but the
irrigation places had the two separate parts.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12918726.jpg

Those two pieces were my only option locally available.

Note: Had I a 2" NPT die, I could have re-threaded though:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12803884.jpg

On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:16:32 -0700, wrote:

I don't see why there should be a lot of play in this. If that Jandy
valve is designed to work with 2.5" fittings, then a 2.5"
fitting should fit over it just like any PVC pipe connection.

I don't know if I have the vocabulary (that Oren has) of describing
things ... but I'd say the "play" was within reason. It was tight,
but not as tight as when I place a brand new PVC coupling over a
similarly brand new PVC pipe.

When I connect the brand new equipment (for sizing, for example),
I always have a hard time pulling them apart ... they're that tight.

On the other hand, this 2.5" coupling goes on "snug"; but can easily
be pulled back off without much force.

So, it's "snug" but nowhere near as snug as putting a brand new
PVC coupling onto a brand new PVC pipe.

Since that joint is the critical joint, I'll be crossing my fingers
because, if that fails, the only other option (other than draining
the pool) is to bore out the Jandy valves.

On Mon, 13 May 2013 15:10:48 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:02:08 -0700, Oren wrote:

the O-rings on the strainer and volute
should be lubed when you put them back together.

Strainer? Volute?

Googling ...
Volute: noun, A spiral scroll, Forming a spiral curve or curves

So I assume the strainer is the pool pump basket, which has an
o-ring at the top under the cover, which I do lube with the
pool lube.


Yes and so should the filter have a giant O-ring.

And, the volute is most likely the clamp-on connection where
the impeller does its work; so, yes, I do lube that also with
pool lube.


Exactly.

Thanks for the recommendation (and vocabulary).

Happy birthday!

On Mon, 13 May 2013 15:17:50 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:02:08 -0700, Oren wrote:

Why you cut so close to the Jandy valve ... I had said before to cut
close to the pump and keep some pipe for a regular fitting there.

There was no 'pipe'.
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12767439.jpg

On the filter Jandy valve, what *looked* like a pipe was really
a whole bunch of couplings inserted butt-to-butt with the actual
two-inch pipe hiding inside.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12771692.jpg

On the cleaner Jandy valve, it was just butt-to-butt elbows.
http://www3.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12814636.jpg

I would have *loved* to have some 2-inch pipe to simply connect
a fitting to - but - there were no "pipes" to be found there!

That was the entire problem, in the first place, which had
prevented a simple repair, over the years (by me or the previous
owner).

I concede. I followed the thread about the "tool" to cut the SCH 200
pipe out. Then I mentioned the inserts and fittings for over the
elbows.

In your case, I would have done the same thing.

The builder did you no favors.

On Mon, 13 May 2013 15:24:35 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

On Mon, 13 May 2013 08:02:08 -0700, Oren wrote:

One coupling would have avoided using two pieces,
adding a place for potential leaks.

Just to clarify, I had *wanted* a single coupling:

I understand.

Ya done good.

On Mon, 13 May 2013 15:41:20 +0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

Since that joint is the critical joint, I'll be crossing my fingers
because, if that fails, the only other option (other than draining
the pool) is to bore out the Jandy valves.

Relax. I was skeptical about an over the elbow fitting method. My
solar has never leaked, I approved the method :-\

On Mon, 13 May 2013 10:04:30 -0700, Oren wrote:

I concede. I followed the thread about the "tool" to cut the SCH 200
pipe out. Then I mentioned the inserts and fittings for over the
elbows.

If it's any consolation, I followed your huckleberry trail almost
exactly - only turning away when the path petered out completely.

In fact, I *did* originally cut the so-called "pipe" very much
closer to the pump, *exactly* as you had advised:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843170.jpg

The deviation from your suggested path was determined because
a big boulder blocked the path to huckleberry nirvana, which
in this case, was because there was no 2-inch pipe to be had:
http://www1.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843179.jpg

This lack of 2-inch pipe necessitated switching to plan B:
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12843185.jpg

On Mon, 13 May 2013 09:35:27 -0700, Oren wrote:

Yes and so should the filter have a giant O-ring.

It's hula-hoop humongous!

On Mon, 13 May 2013 18:19:07 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Mon, 13 May 2013 10:04:30 -0700, Oren wrote:

I concede. I followed the thread about the "tool" to cut the SCH 200
pipe out. Then I mentioned the inserts and fittings for over the
elbows.

If it's any consolation, I followed your huckleberry trail almost
exactly - only turning away when the path petered out completely.


I'm inconsolable!

On Tue, 14 May 2013 12:31:33 -0700, Oren wrote:

I'm inconsolable!

On Mon, 13 May 2013 12:20:51 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Mon, 13 May 2013 04:06:36 -0400, micky wrote:

Ah, you mean in the pictures in this thread. At first I thought you
meant all black 2" plastic pipe was white pipe painted black.

I'm no expert, but my pool equipment is white schedule 40 PVC pipe
painted black to protect it from the sun.

When I went to Home Depot, all the schedule 40 PVC was white; the
schedule 80 PVC was mostly gray (the schedule 80 unions were white);
and the drain pipe was black.

Not sure if that holds true elsewhere though ...

Hardware stores, maybe including HD used to sell mostly black plastic
pipe, and no white plastic pipe, but white came in later and I guess
it's better in some way, because that is all HD has now. (Maybe grey
pipe too but that's the flexible stuff I havent' used.) To get black
recently (so it would mach my basement sink drain and my sump pump
drain) I had to go to a plumbing supply store.

On Mon, 13 May 2013 13:53:44 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

On Mon, 13 May 2013 06:37:41 -0700, wrote:

It seems to me a curious thing that they paint them black.

You have an interesting point there, in that it's the 'paint' and
not the 'color' of that paint that protects PVC from UV radiation.

Dunno why mine are black ... but ... since they are ... I'm going
to get out my license to prove I'm over 18 and have them unlock

I thought the minimum age for paint was 35.

the double padlocked spray paint cage at Home Depot when it's all
working and buttoned up ... and grab me some flat black stuff to go!

On Mon, 13 May 2013 14:08:19 +0000 (UTC), Danny D
wrote:

I had bought two unions at the time, so I left the unused union
outside in a plastic bucket. Over time, that unused union yellowed.

So, the good news is that the unions are 'matched' in time and batch;
the bad news is that one sat outside in the hot sun for a year.

I'll let you know if it leaks; but if it does, it will be easy to
replace, since the hard part was always the inlet side, and not
the outlet side.
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12921662.jpg

Note: If it wasn't easy to replace, you can rest assured I would
have used all new equipment!

Is this just a swimming pool or is it something bigger?

On Wed, 15 May 2013 18:46:39 -0400, micky wrote:

Is this just a swimming pool or is it something bigger?

It's a big swimming pool ...

On Sunday, May 12, 2013 at 1:05:29 PM UTC-4, Danny D wrote:
I'm a big believer in doing things the right way, or, at least knowing
what the right way is (so that the next time you do it the right way).

So I ask what seems like a very basic question:
Q: Does it matter which direction I put these 2" PVC unions on?
http://www4.picturepush.com/photo/a/...g/12915207.jpg

you say your one to do things correctly, I've always gone with the flow with the nut first. Also if you want to do things right use sch80 not 40 it cracks after time.....