Hi! We are about to get our roof replaced but are looking into structural changes to make the roof safer in the event of severe weather. We live in an area that has occasional hurricanes and even small tornadoes.

Our property has hundreds of tall oak trees (approximately 1-2 feet in diameter x 70 feet? tall) that are gorgeous but certainly dangerous should they fall on the house. It is not a realistic option to remove all the trees and bracing all of the trees would result in a spiderweb of wires all over the place that is not a safe or realistic option either.

Is there anything we can do to improve our own safety with respect to these trees? I have seen too many news stories during hurricanes where people were killed when a tree fell on their roof.

We have a two-story gable roof with plywood sheathing and architectural shingles. Would it help to reinforce the trusses with horizontal or cross metal braces? Could we put metal sheathing beneath the plywood? Our goal is not to make the roof impervious to trees but rather to give us at least a small amount of time to escape the house safely should a heavy tree fall on the roof.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

On Mon, 6 May 2013 14:26:55 -0700 (PDT), Nona
wrote in Re
Reinforce Roof Against Falling Trees?:

We have a two-story gable roof with plywood sheathing and architectural shingles. Would it help to reinforce the trusses with horizontal or cross metal braces? Could we put metal sheathing beneath the plywood? Our goal is not to make the roof impervious to trees but rather to give us at least a small amount of time to escape the house safely should a heavy tree fall on the roof.

I'm assuming that you have a wood frame house under that roof; in
which case there is not much you can do if one of those trees fall.
The weight of the tree is likely to collapse the frame exterior walls
as well as destroy the roof.

On May 6, 5:26*pm, Nona wrote:
Hi! *We are about to get our roof replaced but are looking into structural changes to make the roof safer in the event of severe weather. *We live in an area that has occasional hurricanes and even small tornadoes.

Our property has hundreds of tall oak trees (approximately 1-2 feet in diameter x 70 feet? tall) that are gorgeous but certainly dangerous should they fall on the house. *It is not a realistic option to remove all the trees

You don't have to remove all the trees. Just enough so that
none can reach the house. Or if you're most worried about
a structural collapse but willing to tolerate some lesser damage,
then you could leave trees where the top 1/4 or so could
reach the house. That load may cause damage, but it's not
likely to cause a major collapse that kills people.


and bracing all of the trees would result in a spiderweb of wires all over the place that is not a safe or realistic option either.

Is there anything we can do to improve our own safety with respect to these trees? *I have seen too many news stories during hurricanes where people were killed when a tree fell on their roof.

We have a two-story gable roof with plywood sheathing and architectural shingles. *Would it help to reinforce the trusses with horizontal or cross metal braces?

No, because it's not just the roof, it's the fact that everything
else, ie what
supports the roof, the two floors, etc is not designed to carry the
additional
weight of a 70ft tree.

*Could we put metal sheathing beneath the plywood? *Our goal is not to
make the roof impervious to trees but rather to give us at least a
small amount of time to escape the house safely should a heavy tree
fall on the roof.

Metal sheathing is just going to crumple and the roof deck
is still going to collapse. And replacing the whole roof deck to
add that isn;t gonna be cheap. Just to replace a sheet of
plywood is $50.




Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Cut back the tree line.

Or get out of there before a hurricane and live with the risk of a
tree
coming down anyhow in an unforecasted more regular storm, eg
a severe thunderstorm, high winds, etc.

On 5/6/2013 5:26 PM, Nona wrote:
Hi! We are about to get our roof replaced but are looking into structural changes to make the roof safer in the event of severe weather. We live in an area that has occasional hurricanes and even small tornadoes.

Our property has hundreds of tall oak trees (approximately 1-2 feet in diameter x 70 feet? tall) that are gorgeous but certainly dangerous should they fall on the house. It is not a realistic option to remove all the trees and bracing all of the trees would result in a spiderweb of wires all over the place that is not a safe or realistic option either.

Is there anything we can do to improve our own safety with respect to these trees? I have seen too many news stories during hurricanes where people were killed when a tree fell on their roof.

We have a two-story gable roof with plywood sheathing and architectural shingles. Would it help to reinforce the trusses with horizontal or cross metal braces? Could we put metal sheathing beneath the plywood? Our goal is not to make the roof impervious to trees but rather to give us at least a small amount of time to escape the house safely should a heavy tree fall on the roof.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


Cut the trees down. At some point you'll prolly have to anyway.

Neighbor's insurance company refused to renew his policy until he had two trees removed.

On 5/6/2013 5:26 PM, Nona wrote:
Hi! We are about to get our roof replaced but are looking into structural changes to make the roof safer in the event of severe weather. We live in an area that has occasional hurricanes and even small tornadoes.

Our property has hundreds of tall oak trees (approximately 1-2 feet in diameter x 70 feet? tall) that are gorgeous but certainly dangerous should they fall on the house. It is not a realistic option to remove all the trees and bracing all of the trees would result in a spiderweb of wires all over the place that is not a safe or realistic option either.

Is there anything we can do to improve our own safety with respect to these trees? I have seen too many news stories during hurricanes where people were killed when a tree fell on their roof.

We have a two-story gable roof with plywood sheathing and architectural shingles. Would it help to reinforce the trusses with horizontal or cross metal braces? Could we put metal sheathing beneath the plywood? Our goal is not to make the roof impervious to trees but rather to give us at least a small amount of time to escape the house safely should a heavy tree fall on the roof.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!



Only safe thing you can do is cut down any tree that would endanger the
house if it fell. I'm sure its not all of the trees.

Frank wrote:
On 5/6/2013 5:26 PM, Nona wrote:
Hi! We are about to get our roof replaced but are looking into
structural changes to make the roof safer in the event of severe
weather. We live in an area that has occasional hurricanes and even small tornadoes.

Our property has hundreds of tall oak trees (approximately 1-2 feet in
diameter x 70 feet? tall) that are gorgeous but certainly dangerous
should they fall on the house. It is not a realistic option to remove
all the trees and bracing all of the trees would result in a spiderweb
of wires all over the place that is not a safe or realistic option either.

Is there anything we can do to improve our own safety with respect to
these trees? I have seen too many news stories during hurricanes where
people were killed when a tree fell on their roof.

We have a two-story gable roof with plywood sheathing and architectural
shingles. Would it help to reinforce the trusses with horizontal or
cross metal braces? Could we put metal sheathing beneath the plywood?
Our goal is not to make the roof impervious to trees but rather to give
us at least a small amount of time to escape the house safely should a
heavy tree fall on the roof.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!



Only safe thing you can do is cut down any tree that would endanger the
house if it fell. I'm sure its not all of the trees.

I'm worried about mine, which are so close to the house.the biggest trunk
has my water line tied up. The power company is going to trim soon. I'm
going to ask how much can they do.

Greg

Remove the closest trees that can endanger the home.

For safetys sake build a safe room somewhere in your home, or
underground but nearby.

Think steel and concrete reinforced storm shelter. near center of home
is probably the most safe, make it big enough for emergency supplies
like food and water
this room could be useful for all sorts of disasters.....

my neighbor had lots of beautful trees, first he removed the closest
ones that if they fell could hit his home. he wasnt satisfied and
removed all the trees

he is elderly, and wanted to protect his home.

He fell over a year ago in his driveway and broke his hip he has
been in a nursing home ever since.

His family had the home cleaned out, and its being sold......

they would of got more for the home before all those beautiful trees
were cut down.

On Mon, 06 May 2013 18:20:01 -0400, Joe wrote:

On 5/6/2013 5:26 PM, Nona wrote:
Hi! We are about to get our roof replaced but are looking into structural changes to make the roof safer in the event of severe weather. We live in an area that has occasional hurricanes and even small tornadoes.

Our property has hundreds of tall oak trees (approximately 1-2 feet in diameter x 70 feet? tall) that are gorgeous but certainly dangerous should they fall on the house. It is not a realistic option to remove all the trees and bracing all of the trees would result in a spiderweb of wires all over the place that is not a safe or realistic option either.

Is there anything we can do to improve our own safety with respect to these trees? I have seen too many news stories during hurricanes where people were killed when a tree fell on their roof.

We have a two-story gable roof with plywood sheathing and architectural shingles. Would it help to reinforce the trusses with horizontal or cross metal braces? Could we put metal sheathing beneath the plywood? Our goal is not to make the roof impervious to trees but rather to give us at least a small amount of time to escape the house safely should a heavy tree fall on the roof.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


Cut the trees down. At some point you'll prolly have to anyway.

Also, schedule the funerals for your parents and wife. At some point
you'll prolly have to anyway.,

Neighbor's insurance company refused to renew his policy until he had two trees removed.

In article ,
Nona wrote:
Hi! We are about to get our roof replaced but are looking into
structural changes to make the roof safer in the event of severe
weather. We live in an area that has occasional hurricanes and even
small tornadoes.

Our property has hundreds of tall oak trees (approximately 1-2 feet in
diameter x 70 feet? tall) that are gorgeous but certainly dangerous
should they fall on the house. It is not a realistic option to remove
all the trees and bracing all of the trees would result in a spiderweb
of wires all over the place that is not a safe or realistic option
either.

Is there anything we can do to improve our own safety with respect to
these trees? I have seen too many news stories during hurricanes where
people were killed when a tree fell on their roof.

We have a two-story gable roof with plywood sheathing and architectural
shingles. Would it help to reinforce the trusses with horizontal or
cross metal braces? Could we put metal sheathing beneath the plywood?
Our goal is not to make the roof impervious to trees but rather to give
us at least a small amount of time to escape the house safely should a
heavy tree fall on the roof.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Raise your house so it's above the trees.
On a budget, find a used underwater drilling platform. Try craigslist.

m

"bob haller" wrote in message
...
Remove the closest trees that can endanger the home.

Actually, the very closest trees are probably not as dangerous as ones that
are far enough away to allow the tree to fall over and gain a lot of
momentum. The close trees are likely to slide against the house and do less
damage than the ones that fall over from far enough away to swing like a
hammer. All the serious hits I recall seeing were from trees set some
distance from the foundation

We had a tornado 5 blocks away a while back and it scattered an entire park
full of tall 2' foot wide oaks like pickup sticks. If you are in the direct
path of a tornado, no amount of bracing is going to help a typical
residential structure. I rode around after the storm and took pictures and
one was of a poor guy standing in front of his split-level home that was
split in half by a massive oak tree that had been almost 50' away from the
house. The tree was tall enough so that the top of the trunk cut the house
like buzzsaw. He had this "stunned mullet" look on his face that officers
used to get after being chewed out by Gen. Schwartzkopf

http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/pages/frontl.../waller/1.html

For safetys sake build a safe room somewhere in your home, or
underground but nearby.

Yes! These events *usually* have some forewarning, and if you're really
concerned you can get a weather radio that will sound an alert to give you
time to reach a shelter.

http://www.tornadoproject.com/safety/safety.htm

http://www.tornadoproject.com/safety/noaawxra.htm

Think steel and concrete reinforced storm shelter. near center of home
is probably the most safe, make it big enough for emergency supplies
like food and water
this room could be useful for all sorts of disasters.....

I've always believed in having at least a "retreat" room if not a safe room.
I've yet to be able to convince my wife that we should dig an escape tunnel
from the basement to the park behind us. Lots of animals have dens with
emergency escape tunnels. If' it's good enough for a fox, it's OK with me.
(-:

my neighbor had lots of beautful trees, first he removed the closest
ones that if they fell could hit his home. he wasnt satisfied and
removed all the trees

Elderly people get funny like that. I think the realization of one's
mortality makes them want to stack all the odds in their favor. For
instance, I've read that a lot more people take cholesterol meds than are
really helped by them because, as Rutger Hauer's character said in _Blade
Runner_ ,"I want more life, fu&er." Everybody wants to beat the Reaper.
Everybody wants to go to heaven but nobody wants to die.

he is elderly, and wanted to protect his home.

The elderly often develop very severe agoraphobia (fear of going outside)
because they view the world as ever more threatening. It's very sad.

He fell over a year ago in his driveway and broke his hip he has
been in a nursing home ever since.

I have a good friend who's now in rehab after falling, breaking his wrist
and lying four days on the floor waiting for someone to find him. We got
him cell phones, phone dialer pendants, all that stuff before the fall - but
he just refused to use them. His reasoning was that he didn't want to dial
911 and have the fireman break down his door with an axe. I think it's a
little bit of dementia creeping in.

His family had the home cleaned out, and its being sold......
they would of got more for the home before all those beautiful trees
were cut down.

Let's just hope the tree slaughter bought him at least some piece of mind.
We've lost four beautiful trees in the last few years and it really does
change the entire character of the home - and the value, too.

--
Bobby G.

On 5/7/2013 1:05 AM, micky wrote:
On Mon, 06 May 2013 18:20:01 -0400, Joe wrote:

On 5/6/2013 5:26 PM, Nona wrote:
Hi! We are about to get our roof replaced but are looking into structural changes to make the roof safer in the event of severe weather. We live in an area that has occasional hurricanes and even small tornadoes.

Our property has hundreds of tall oak trees (approximately 1-2 feet in diameter x 70 feet? tall) that are gorgeous but certainly dangerous should they fall on the house. It is not a realistic option to remove all the trees and bracing all of the trees would result in a spiderweb of wires all over the place that is not a safe or realistic option either.

Is there anything we can do to improve our own safety with respect to these trees? I have seen too many news stories during hurricanes where people were killed when a tree fell on their roof.

We have a two-story gable roof with plywood sheathing and architectural shingles. Would it help to reinforce the trusses with horizontal or cross metal braces? Could we put metal sheathing beneath the plywood? Our goal is not to make the roof impervious to trees but rather to give us at least a small amount of time to escape the house safely should a heavy tree fall on the roof.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


Cut the trees down. At some point you'll prolly have to anyway.

Also, schedule the funerals for your parents and wife. At some point
you'll prolly have to anyway.,


I'm not sure what you're alluding to but I think it's illegal. ;-)

On Tue, 7 May 2013 04:37:04 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:


We had a tornado 5 blocks away a while back and it scattered an entire park
full of tall 2' foot wide oaks like pickup sticks. If you are in the direct
path of a tornado, no amount of bracing is going to help a typical
residential structure.

Not bracing, but I've heard that attaching the roof well to the top
floor of the house can greatly decrease the chance of the roof coming
off in a tornado. That most roofs stay on by gravity and the nails
just help. But where they've learned to use whatever they recommend
now, even in tornadoes the roof will likely stay on.

I rode around after the storm and took pictures and
one was of a poor guy standing in front of his split-level home that was
split in half

Wasn't it split in quarters, if it was already split?

by a massive oak tree that had been almost 50' away from the
house. The tree was tall enough so that the top of the trunk cut the house
like buzzsaw. He had this "stunned mullet" look on his face that officers
used to get after being chewed out by Gen. Schwartzkopf

On May 7, 3:03*pm, micky wrote:
On Tue, 7 May 2013 04:37:04 -0400, "Robert Green"

wrote:

We had a tornado 5 blocks away a while back and it scattered an entire park
full of tall 2' foot wide oaks like pickup sticks. *If you are in the direct
path of a tornado, no amount of bracing is going to help a typical
residential structure.

Not bracing, but I've heard that attaching the roof well to the top
floor of the house can greatly decrease the chance of the roof coming
off in a tornado. *That most roofs stay on by gravity and the nails
just help. *But where they've learned to use whatever they recommend
now, even in tornadoes the roof will likely stay on.

I guess that depends on what you mean by "in tornadoes".
If it's a tornado passing a couple block or two away, then I agree.
If it's a direct hit or very close, then it's likely going to tear
up the whole house, roof and all.

Using better roof attachment methods has definitely been
proven to make roofs far more wind resistant. That's
been demonstrated in FL, where newer roof work has
greatly increased connection requirements required by
code and it's worked to reduce hurricane damage.

On 5/6/2013 9:26 PM, gregz wrote:
Frank wrote:
On 5/6/2013 5:26 PM, Nona wrote:
Hi! We are about to get our roof replaced but are looking into
structural changes to make the roof safer in the event of severe
weather. We live in an area that has occasional hurricanes and even small tornadoes.

Our property has hundreds of tall oak trees (approximately 1-2 feet in
diameter x 70 feet? tall) that are gorgeous but certainly dangerous
should they fall on the house. It is not a realistic option to remove
all the trees and bracing all of the trees would result in a spiderweb
of wires all over the place that is not a safe or realistic option either.

Is there anything we can do to improve our own safety with respect to
these trees? I have seen too many news stories during hurricanes where
people were killed when a tree fell on their roof.

We have a two-story gable roof with plywood sheathing and architectural
shingles. Would it help to reinforce the trusses with horizontal or
cross metal braces? Could we put metal sheathing beneath the plywood?
Our goal is not to make the roof impervious to trees but rather to give
us at least a small amount of time to escape the house safely should a
heavy tree fall on the roof.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!



Only safe thing you can do is cut down any tree that would endanger the
house if it fell. I'm sure its not all of the trees.

I'm worried about mine, which are so close to the house.the biggest trunk
has my water line tied up. The power company is going to trim soon. I'm
going to ask how much can they do.

Greg


I cut down a perfectly good maple figuring if it ever fell it would
cause severe damage to the house.

A friend in Myrtle Beach about 10 years ago had all the big pines
removed from around his house. In a hurricane, he figured one could
break off and come through the roof like a missile. Cost him $16,000.

If you ever hire a tree cutter, don't pay until they are done. Awful
lot of fly-by-nights in that business around here.

On May 7, 3:15*pm, Frank

If you ever hire a tree cutter, don't pay until they are done. *Awful
lot of fly-by-nights in that business around here.- Hide quoted text -


And make sure you understand what the scope of the work
is, eg is stump grinding included? A lot of people assume
when they hire someone to cut down and remove a tree,
it includes grinding the stump. Usually, that's extra...

On Monday, May 6, 2013 5:26:55 PM UTC-4, Nona wrote:
Hi! We are about to get our roof replaced but are looking into structural changes to make the roof safer in the event of severe weather. We live in an area that has occasional hurricanes and even small tornadoes.



Our property has hundreds of tall oak trees (approximately 1-2 feet in diameter x 70 feet? tall) that are gorgeous but certainly dangerous should they fall on the house. It is not a realistic option to remove all the trees and bracing all of the trees would result in a spiderweb of wires all over the place that is not a safe or realistic option either.



Is there anything we can do to improve our own safety with respect to these trees? I have seen too many news stories during hurricanes where people were killed when a tree fell on their roof.



We have a two-story gable roof with plywood sheathing and architectural shingles. Would it help to reinforce the trusses with horizontal or cross metal braces? Could we put metal sheathing beneath the plywood? Our goal is not to make the roof impervious to trees but rather to give us at least a small amount of time to escape the house safely should a heavy tree fall on the roof.



Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Sorry but it's just completely impractical. Trees weigh thousands of pounds. Nothing you could build short of many inch thick concrete walls and steel trusses can stand having thousands of pounds dropped on it.

Nona wrote in
:

Hi! We are about to get our roof replaced but are looking into
structural changes to make the roof safer in the event of severe
weather. We live in an area that has occasional hurricanes and even
small tornadoes.

Our property has hundreds of tall oak trees (approximately 1-2 feet in
diameter x 70 feet? tall) that are gorgeous but certainly dangerous
should they fall on the house. It is not a realistic option to remove
all the trees and bracing all of the trees would result in a spiderweb
of wires all over the place that is not a safe or realistic option
either.

Is there anything we can do to improve our own safety with respect to
these trees? I have seen too many news stories during hurricanes
where people were killed when a tree fell on their roof.

We have a two-story gable roof with plywood sheathing and
architectural shingles. Would it help to reinforce the trusses with
horizontal or cross metal braces? Could we put metal sheathing
beneath the plywood? Our goal is not to make the roof impervious to
trees but rather to give us at least a small amount of time to escape
the house safely should a heavy tree fall on the roof.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


Hey Stormy. Surprised you didn't chime in with "Pray".

"micky" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 7 May 2013 04:37:04 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:


We had a tornado 5 blocks away a while back and it scattered an entire
park
full of tall 2' foot wide oaks like pickup sticks. If you are in the
direct
path of a tornado, no amount of bracing is going to help a typical
residential structure.

Not bracing, but I've heard that attaching the roof well to the top
floor of the house can greatly decrease the chance of the roof coming
off in a tornado. That most roofs stay on by gravity and the nails
just help. But where they've learned to use whatever they recommend
now, even in tornadoes the roof will likely stay on.

Agreed, but the OP was concerned about hits from trees, a different case
than having a roof lifted off by high winds. Probably the only realistic
way to fortify a structure so that it can withstand a falling oak tree is to
build a steel roll cage around the house. If cutting down all the trees
drops a home's value, imagine what a giant steel roll cage would do to its
"curb appeal." (-:

One other point. You've doubtless seen the swath a big tornado cuts. Those
big twisters demolish wooden structures, roofs and all. I still contend
that no amount of bracing or improved roof attachment is going to matter if
you're a stick-built house in the path of an F3 or greater. It's sayonara
time for that structure as it gets pulverized and dragged into the next
county.

I will agree that it's been proven time and again that good building codes
save lives. Florida's rules about attaching roofs has greatly lessened
damage caused by roofs flying off and then striking other homes and even
people with flying debris. While it's still under investigation, that
recent collapse in Bangladesh probably wouldn't have happened if that
structure had been built better with adherence to building codes and better
inspection during construction.

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/n...ollapse-world/

The exact cause of the collapse has not yet been determined, but Henri
Gavin, a civil and environmental engineer at Duke University, speculated
that the building's foundation was substandard.
"It could be that one edge of the building was on much softer soil than the
other, so that part of the building settled down a little bit more," Gavin
explained. "That could easily lead to an instability that would precipitate
a collapse."

Another possibility is that weight on the top factory floors-where the crack
was spotted-was unevenly distributed. (Also see pictures: "Sinkhole Swallows
Buildings in China.")

I rode around after the storm and took pictures and
one was of a poor guy standing in front of his split-level home that was
split in half

Wasn't it split in quarters, if it was already split?

(-: The adjusters came and wrote stuff in chalk on the house remains so I
guess you could say it was "drawn AND quartered."

--

Bobby G.

On Tue, 7 May 2013 12:13:19 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On May 7, 3:03*pm, micky wrote:
On Tue, 7 May 2013 04:37:04 -0400, "Robert Green"

wrote:

We had a tornado 5 blocks away a while back and it scattered an entire park
full of tall 2' foot wide oaks like pickup sticks. *If you are in the direct
path of a tornado, no amount of bracing is going to help a typical
residential structure.

Not bracing, but I've heard that attaching the roof well to the top
floor of the house can greatly decrease the chance of the roof coming
off in a tornado. *That most roofs stay on by gravity and the nails
just help. *But where they've learned to use whatever they recommend
now, even in tornadoes the roof will likely stay on.

I guess that depends on what you mean by "in tornadoes".
If it's a tornado passing a couple block or two away, then I agree.
If it's a direct hit or very close, then it's likely going to tear
up the whole house, roof and all.

Yes, but if the whole house blows away, with the roof attached, I
think that counts as the roof staying on,

Using better roof attachment methods has definitely been
proven to make roofs far more wind resistant. That's
been demonstrated in FL, where newer roof work has
greatly increased connection requirements required by
code and it's worked to reduce hurricane damage.

On Tue, 07 May 2013 01:05:58 -0400, micky
wrote:

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


Cut the trees down. At some point you'll prolly have to anyway.

Also, schedule the funerals for your parents and wife. At some point
you'll prolly have to anyway.,

Neighbor's insurance company refused to renew his policy until he had two trees removed.

Steel beams enbedded in concrete, at least 10 feet deep. Have these
vertical steel beams extend at least 5 feet higher than your roof.
Place one beam into the ground every six feet around your entire house.
Then weld more steel beams horizontally across the top of all these
vertical beams. Also have horizontal beams extend across the roof at 6
foot intervals in both directions. Apply several more at 45deg angles on
each corner, crossing the roof. To be even more secure, have more beams
at an angle from the top down to the ground, and sink them deep into the
ground with several tons of concrete. Be sure to run more beams in a
horizontal manner, around the entire house every 6 to 8 feet from the
ground to the roof.

What you'll have when complete is a huge solid steel cage around your
house that should handle even the heaviest tree.

As for the guy who said to cut the trees down, please remove your sexual
organs. At some point you'll prolly have to anyway.

a home around here got damaged by a tree, it smashed in part of the
roof

It made the news because although the insurance company paid the
claim, they threatened to cancel the home owners insurance unless the
other trees endangering the home were removed. Cant say I blame them
the trees were massive, over 50 feet tall and right against the home.

The people didnt have the bucks to remove the trees, and insurance
wouldnt pay to remove them

I think a weathy person saw the story and paid the costs like 7 or 8
grand......

The OP would probably be better off getting the hazardous trees
removed before something bad happens....

On May 8, 3:42*am, micky wrote:
On Tue, 7 May 2013 12:13:19 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On May 7, 3:03 pm, micky wrote:
On Tue, 7 May 2013 04:37:04 -0400, "Robert Green"

wrote:

We had a tornado 5 blocks away a while back and it scattered an entire park
full of tall 2' foot wide oaks like pickup sticks. If you are in the direct
path of a tornado, no amount of bracing is going to help a typical
residential structure.

Not bracing, but I've heard that attaching the roof well to the top
floor of the house can greatly decrease the chance of the roof coming
off in a tornado. That most roofs stay on by gravity and the nails
just help. But where they've learned to use whatever they recommend
now, even in tornadoes the roof will likely stay on.

I guess that depends on what you mean by "in tornadoes".
If it's a tornado passing a couple block or two away, then I agree.
If it's a direct hit or very close, then it's likely going to tear
up the whole house, roof and all.

Yes, but if the whole house blows away, with the roof attached, I
think that counts as the roof staying on,



The typical destruction path of houses directly in the path of a
tornado is one of complete or serious destruction. In the vast
majority of
photos that I've seen, you don't have whole houses blown away and
put down somewhere else, roof still on. The roof and the rest
of the house are ripped apart, because neither part of the structure
can withstand the forces. Yes, sometimes you'll see a house that
blew away and went 100 ft with it's roof still on. But in that case,
it doesn't make much difference anyway, the house is still a total
loss.









Using better roof attachment methods has definitely been
proven to make roofs far more wind resistant. *That's
been demonstrated in FL, where newer roof work has
greatly increased connection requirements required by
code and it's worked to reduce hurricane damage.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On May 7, 8:20*pm, "Robert Green" wrote:
"micky" wrote in message

...





On Tue, 7 May 2013 04:37:04 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote:

We had a tornado 5 blocks away a while back and it scattered an entire
park
full of tall 2' foot wide oaks like pickup sticks. *If you are in the
direct
path of a tornado, no amount of bracing is going to help a typical
residential structure.

Not bracing, but I've heard that attaching the roof well to the top
floor of the house can greatly decrease the chance of the roof coming
off in a tornado. *That most roofs stay on by gravity and the nails
just help. *But where they've learned to use whatever they recommend
now, even in tornadoes the roof will likely stay on.

Agreed, but the OP was concerned about hits from trees, a different case
than having a roof lifted off by high winds. *Probably the only realistic
way to fortify a structure so that it can withstand a falling oak tree is to
build a steel roll cage around the house. *If cutting down all the trees
drops a home's value, imagine what a giant steel roll cage would do to its
"curb appeal." *(-:

One other point. *You've doubtless seen the swath a big tornado cuts. *Those
big twisters demolish wooden structures, roofs and all. *I still contend
that no amount of bracing or improved roof attachment is going to matter if
you're a stick-built house in the path of an F3 or greater. *It's sayonara
time for that structure as it gets pulverized and dragged into the next
county.

I agree. As I said previously, I can see addition roof connectors
helping
in the case where you're near the edge of the tornado path. But if
you're
directly in the path, it pretty much destroys the whole structure,
roof and
all. I suppose you could find some cases where it could have helped,
where there is a house or two, that for whatever reason was spared.
And if that house had the extra connectors, which is certainly a good
idea for any areas prone to extreme storms, then it could help that
house survive with it's roof intact. But in my view, that's the
exceptional
case.





I will agree that it's been proven time and again that good building codes
save lives. Florida's rules about attaching roofs has greatly lessened
damage caused by roofs flying off and then striking other homes and even
people with flying debris. *While it's still under investigation, that
recent collapse in Bangladesh probably wouldn't have happened if that
structure had been built better with adherence to building codes and better
inspection during construction.

http://news.nationalgeographic.com/n...bangladesh-dha...

The exact cause of the collapse has not yet been determined, but Henri
Gavin, a civil and environmental engineer at Duke University, speculated
that the building's foundation was substandard.
"It could be that one edge of the building was on much softer soil than the
other, so that part of the building settled down a little bit more," Gavin
explained. "That could easily lead to an instability that would precipitate
a collapse."

Another possibility is that weight on the top factory floors-where the crack
was spotted-was unevenly distributed. (Also see pictures: "Sinkhole Swallows
Buildings in China.")

I haven't followed this closely, but I heard reports around the time
it
happened that said the upper floors were added, perhaps illegally.
That has happened before, I remember a dept store in Japan, for
example, where they just added a floor without properly considering
the additional loads put on the rest of the structure.

On May 8, 11:44*am, wrote:
On Wed, 8 May 2013 05:48:53 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On May 7, 8:20*pm, "Robert Green" wrote:
One other point. *You've doubtless seen the swath a big tornado cuts.. *Those
big twisters demolish wooden structures, roofs and all. *I still contend
that no amount of bracing or improved roof attachment is going to matter if
you're a stick-built house in the path of an F3 or greater. *It's sayonara
time for that structure as it gets pulverized and dragged into the next
county.

I agree. *As I said previously, I can see addition roof connectors
helping
in the case where you're near the edge of the tornado path. *But if
you're
directly in the path, it pretty much destroys the whole structure,
roof and
all. *I suppose you could find some cases where it could have helped,
where there is a house or two, that for whatever reason was spared.
And if that house had the extra connectors, which is certainly a good
idea for any areas prone to extreme storms, then it could help that
house survive with it's roof intact. *But in my view, that's the
exceptional
case.

Florida just bumped up the wind code requirement in this area to 170
MPH. That certainly starts getting you up into the F-3 tornado
category.

I'm sure you'd agree the speed of the wind is only one
factor. The winds you'd see in a hurricane are straightline
for the most part. With a tornado, they are strongly rotational.
Also,
with a tornado, you not only have high winds, but a very
localized low pressure, vacuuming effect that pulls
stuff apart. That force on a large roof area could be more
destructive than the wind speed. In fact, that is probably
what happens in many cases, isn't it? That the roof is
essentially sucked off, not blown off?


The connector requirements tie the roof, all the way down to the
foundation as a continuous system.

Yep. If the rest of the house isn't tied to the foundation,
then having the roof stay on could just mean the whole
house comes up and gets destroyed anyway.

I agree that it's a good idea to have the increased tie-downs.
Especially since with new construction, the added cost is
minimal. I just don't think in the case of a tornado, if the
house is directly in the path of an F3+, it's probably not
going to make a difference, in most cases. The farther
you are away from the center, then obviously the chances
of it making a difference that avoids total destruciton increases
a lot.

On 5/7/2013 4:08 PM, wrote:
On May 7, 3:15 pm, Frank

If you ever hire a tree cutter, don't pay until they are done. Awful
lot of fly-by-nights in that business around here.- Hide quoted text -


And make sure you understand what the scope of the work
is, eg is stump grinding included? A lot of people assume
when they hire someone to cut down and remove a tree,
it includes grinding the stump. Usually, that's extra...


Stump grinding caused a one week break in the last job I had done but he
wanted paid for the bulk of the work right afterwards. I knew he was
not a fly-by-night so I broke my rule.

Job before, I left in stumps as they were not visible from the street.
Termites started making great work of them, so I had the house treated
and warranted

wrote in message
...
On Wed, 8 May 2013 05:48:53 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On May 7, 8:20Â pm, "Robert Green" wrote:

One other point. Â You've doubtless seen the swath a big tornado cuts. Â
Those
big twisters demolish wooden structures, roofs and all. Â I still
contend
that no amount of bracing or improved roof attachment is going to matter
if
you're a stick-built house in the path of an F3 or greater. Â It's
sayonara
time for that structure as it gets pulverized and dragged into the next
county.

I agree. As I said previously, I can see addition roof connectors
helping
in the case where you're near the edge of the tornado path. But if
you're
directly in the path, it pretty much destroys the whole structure,
roof and
all. I suppose you could find some cases where it could have helped,
where there is a house or two, that for whatever reason was spared.
And if that house had the extra connectors, which is certainly a good
idea for any areas prone to extreme storms, then it could help that
house survive with it's roof intact. But in my view, that's the
exceptional
case.


Florida just bumped up the wind code requirement in this area to 170
MPH. That certainly starts getting you up into the F-3 tornado
category.
The connector requirements tie the roof, all the way down to the
foundation as a continuous system.

I did see what happens when a tornado overcomes this system. The
trusses actually broke where the clips held them and the top chords
went off in 3 pieces. The reinforced concrete block walls held.
One of the occupants was leaving through the open roof when her hubby
grabbed her ankles and they both came down and balled up until it
passed. Her hair was instant "buck wheat" style with hundreds of tiny
braids in it.



The best design I have ever seen that is tornado and tree-proof is a house
built into a poured concrete spindle
The technique is simple
1) Pour foundation
2) Pour vertical shaft to desired height
3) Build frame and pour into it what will be the roof
4) Raise roof to whatever is going to be floor height
5) Pour floor into frame
6) Raise roof & floor to next floor height
7) Repeat 5) & 6) until desired height is reached
8) Build casing around central shaft, fill with reinforced concrete to
support roof and floors.

The tallest I've seen is 3 stories with a widows walk / terrace on the roof.

wrote in message news:3544a0e8-2b26-4400-ad50-
On May 7, 8:20 pm, "Robert Green" wrote:

stuff snipped

One other point. You've doubtless seen the swath a big tornado cuts. Those
big twisters demolish wooden structures, roofs and all. I still contend
that no amount of bracing or improved roof attachment is going to matter
if
you're a stick-built house in the path of an F3 or greater. It's sayonara
time for that structure as it gets pulverized and dragged into the next
county.

I agree. As I said previously, I can see addition roof connectors helping
in the case where you're near the edge of the tornado path. But if you're
directly in the path, it pretty much destroys the whole structure, roof and
all. I suppose you could find some cases where it could have helped,
where there is a house or two, that for whatever reason was spared.
And if that house had the extra connectors, which is certainly a good
idea for any areas prone to extreme storms, then it could help that
house survive with it's roof intact. But in my view, that's the
exceptional case.

The tornado that scattered the oak trees like pickup sticks lifted a car 12
stories in the air at the U. of Md. and killed the occupants. Then the
tornado followed a path along a small creek bed where it hit the park and
then made a bee-line for a Home Depot/shopping center, destroying all the
large signs and pulling up the edges of the metal roof in the open garden
area. Then the funnel just lifted into the air and it was all over, just
like that. Anything "stick built" that was right in the path was destroyed.
Once the cone becomes filled with debris it becomes a potent destructive
force. IIRC, most victims are killed by the impact of the debris.

It was just a miracle that it followed the creek where there were no houses
for most of its trip through my neighborhood. Now that everyone's got a
video camera in their cell phones there's always someone getting a picture
of a cow, a shed, a car, a tractor's trailer, a roof, a tree, street signs
and all sorts of other airborne debris. Someone even had a still photo of
the car in mid air, sailing over the 9 story dormitory and crashing down
into the parking lot.

The most fascinating pictures I've ever seen of a tornado was from a news
chopper flying above the clouds but still close enough to the funnel to film
down inside the cone. It was filled with lightning flashes and tons of
debris like roof sections, 2 by 4's, trashcans. Then it split into three
tornadoes. I can't seem to find it on YouTube, but I've seen the footage
shown several times on both the Weather Channel and the Discovery Channel.

It's as popular as the footage of the family that climbed under an overpass
and filmed the tornado as it passed directly overhead. That's got to change
your life forever. (-: I've heard authorities say not to seek shelter
there, but it looked like the only place they would have been able to
survive (and did).

As for my only tornado experience (thank God) the destruction lessened
further away from the main track but it was still pretty awesome. Standing
on the highest vantage point I could find a few days later, the entire area
was a sea of blue tarps. Almost every house for a block or two on either
side had major roof or tree damage. Storms like that are exceptionally rare
around here and I suspect not many of the newer houses had good "Florida
code" connections between roof and frame.

I was surprised to learn how many homes have their roofs loosely attached,
although that's changing. I was just as surprised when I learned that the
Bismarck's huge gun turrets were held on by gravity alone and they just fell
off when the ship rolled after sinking. I suppose the designers figured
that the tilt angle required to dislodge the turrets meant that it was "game
over" anyway when that angle was reached.

One thing I found quite interesting is that weeping willows were still
standing (stripped almost completely of leaves, though) while the mighty
oaks were all felled. When you drive through a decimated area you realize
how inadequate TV and newspaper coverage is in communicating the scope of
the damage. I heard that said often about both Katrina and Sandy. Until
you're doing a flyover or a drive through the scope doesn't come across.
Five blocks east and I would have been going to Oz in the middle of a funnel
cloud.

I will agree that it's been proven time and again that good building codes
save lives. Florida's rules about attaching roofs has greatly lessened
damage caused by roofs flying off and then striking other homes and even
people with flying debris. While it's still under investigation, that
recent collapse in Bangladesh probably wouldn't have happened if that
structure had been built better with adherence to building codes and
better
inspection during construction.

I haven't followed this closely, but I heard reports around the time it
happened that said the upper floors were added, perhaps illegally.
That has happened before, I remember a dept store in Japan, for
example, where they just added a floor without properly considering
the additional loads put on the rest of the structure.

Yes, I've read that, too. It's a very common occurrence because each floor
is just like the one below it in most cases so when you're on a roll . . .
Most construction workers aren't really thinking about the extra stress on
the floors below. I read another report today that implied the floors may
have "pancaked" and when the top floor collapsed it overload the floor below
it, etc.

If they went stingy on the rebar, as some reports indicate, it's no
surprise. With so many people killed (700+ at least count) at least a few
of us are likely wearing clothing sewed by some of the victims of the
collapse. If there's anything I hate, it's people who are working hard to
make a living getting killed by negligence or criminal activity. People who
rob pizza couriers should be castrated. I wonder if a threat like that
would make thieving scum think twice? It should.

Overbuilding happened in the very tony Montgomery County, MD and bless their
souls, they forced the builder to remove the extra two stories he had
illegally added to the building and fined him quite heavily because the
extra two floors opened him to dozens of inspection violations. I also
think TPTB wanted to send a very strong message that adding unsanctioned
floors is a big no-no. If IIRC, he even tried to bribe someone on the
county council, deepening his legal troubles. Apparently he got away with
it in the beginning because no one measured building heights because the
planning department thought that permitting services was doing it.
Permitting services did not measure because it believed the planning
department had enforcement authority.

--
Bobby G.

On Mon, 6 May 2013 14:26:55 -0700 (PDT), Nona
wrote:

Is there anything we can do to improve our own safety with respect to these trees?

Line the peak of the roof with plastic Jesuses....

wrote in message

stuff snipped

The biggest problem with the suction/pressure issue is when the
building envelope is penetrated. That is what the impact rated windows
or shutters are all about. Once high pressure air enters and you have
the lower pressures on the roof or other side, forces are increased.
Once the destruction gets started, it proceeds pretty fast throughout
the structure. The more you lose, the more you lose.

I read in several places that the pressure differential theories about
tornadoes and open windows are mostly myth and that the impact-rated glass
is mostly to prevent flying glass shard and other debris-related injuries.

http://www.spc.noaa.gov/faq/tornado/safety.html says:

Flying debris is the greatest danger in tornadoes; so store protective
coverings (e.g., mattress, sleeping bags, thick blankets, etc) in or next to
your shelter space, ready to use on a few seconds' notice . . . Forget
about the old notion of opening windows to equalize pressure; the tornado
will blast open the windows for you!

http://www.accuweather.com/en/weathe...-debunke/61918

says: Similarly, Americans have held on to various other myths causing
them to act dangerously and incorrectly in the face of a volatile tornado.
1. Opening windows during a tornado will relieve pressure and save a house
from destruction

Opening windows during a tornado provides no benefits. Though tornadoes are
caused by intense pressure, merely opening windows will not alleviate or
equalize this. Because of the intense power of a tornado, it is best to seek
shelter underground in a basement, or in a room with no windows altogether.
Opening them only creates a portal through which more debris can enter your
home.

So I am not sure what bottom line is about internal and external air
pressure. It does seem that impact rated windows are very useful in keeping
flying debris OUT of a house. The great tidal wave that struck Bander Aceh
a while back spared some buildings that had open first floors (allowing
debris to pass under the main structure). It also spared some buildings
that were parallel to the flow of the debris-laden water. The latter
presented a much smaller target for water-borne debris than buildings that
got hit broadside with the tidal wave.

--
Bobby G.

wrote in message

stuff snipped

There are no trees that can fall on my house

Careful, God will hear you and prove to you that he can work mighty wonders
like taking a tree (or a cow or a car) from you neighbor's house (or the
next town over) and smashing it into your home. (-: I learned a long time
ago that God has more contingencies than humans have contingency plans.

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/25/us...anted=all&_r=0

says: In 1995, researchers at the University of Oklahoma wanted to study
the pattern of debris carried long distances by tornadoes. So after a
tornado, they asked people to send them identifiable objects, for example,
canceled checks, which helpfully include the name and address of the check
writer, making it easy to figure out how far the check has traveled.
In five years, more than 1,000 objects were collected, said John T. Snow,
dean of the university's College of Atmospheric and Geographic Sciences, who
led the tornado debris project. Among the odder ones was a man's bowling
jacket. "It had his name stenciled on the back of it and the name of the
bowling alley," Dr. Snow said.

Most of the objects landed fairly close, 15 to 20 miles from where they
started. A few traveled more than 60 miles. The farthest an object traveled
was more than 150 miles. - KENNETH CHANG

I remember reading a SciFi novella a while back that described a time where
the winds starting increasing for no apparent reason until the Earth was
constantly being subjected to 200+ mph winds. It turned out that the best
form of building to resist the effects of wind-driven debris was a pyramid
shape. Makes sense since the Egyptian pyramids seem to have weathered all
sorts of sandstorms and other bad weather for thousands of years.

At the U. of Buffalo they used to tie rope lines tied to posts driven into
the ground next to the walkways so that students could "rope" their way to
class during the frequent "lake effect" blizzards. I was reminded of that
when I read about the Sherpas who allegedly tried to kill three climbers on
Everest who had allegedly interfered with their rigging climbing lines.

http://www.thenational.ae/news/world...ngs-deep-rifts

It was hard enough to keep one's balance on level ground at sea level when
the "lake effect" blizzards blew through. I can only imagine what it's like
to end up high on Everest when a similar storm strikes. I guess that's one
reason a lot of people don't come back from their expedition to Everest.
Mallory must be rolling over in his grave - no wait, he doesn't have a
grave - he's been lying on the ice near the summit for almost 100 years

--

Bobby G.

wrote in message

stuff snipped

Florida just bumped up the wind code requirement in this area to 170
MPH. That certainly starts getting you up into the F-3 tornado
category.
The connector requirements tie the roof, all the way down to the
foundation as a continuous system.

Sadly, even after several serious tornadoes, places in "tornado alley" like
Moore have done very little to make local houses more tornado resistant:

http://www.nytimes.com/2013/05/22/us...ado-alley.html

Construction standards in Moore have been studied extensively. In a 2002
study published in the journal of the American Meteorological Society,
Timothy P. Marshal, an engineer in Dallas, suggested that "the quality of
new home construction generally was no better than homes built prior to the
tornado" in 1999.
Few homes built in the town after the storm were secured to their
foundations with bolted plates, which greatly increase resistance to storms;
instead, most were secured with the same kinds of nails and pins that failed
in 1999. Just 6 of 40 new homes had closet-size safe rooms.

I have less sympathy now for the Okies that get blown clean to Oz. At least
the ones that rejected calls for improved building codes based on claims
"it's too expensive" to build a basement. Yet the Feds (you and me and our
tax dollars) are expected to help rebuild areas affected by tornadoes and
hurricanes. How about not giving any disaster funds for rebuilds that DON'T
include basements?

What would it really cost if a large township got together and decided to
help underwrite the cost of installing small pre-fab shelters in cities and
towns along Tornado Alley? Sounds like the readiest "shovel ready" project
around. Tornado shelters are mass-produced in a pre-fab format that just
drops into a 10 by 10 by 10 hole. It seems like Californians and
earthquakes, mid-westerners are equally ambivalent about their local menace,
tornadoes.

--

Bobby G.

On May 22, 1:09*pm, "Robert Green" wrote:
wrote in message

stuff snipped

Florida just bumped up the wind code requirement in this area to 170
MPH. That certainly starts getting you up into the F-3 tornado
category.
The connector requirements tie the roof, all the way down to the
foundation as a continuous system.

Sadly, even after several serious tornadoes, places in "tornado alley" like
Moore have done very little to make local houses more tornado resistant:

http://www.nytimes.com/2013/05/22/us...ts-resisted-in...

Construction standards in Moore have been studied extensively. In a 2002
study published in the journal of the American Meteorological Society,
Timothy P. Marshal, an engineer in Dallas, suggested that "the quality of
new home construction generally was no better than homes built prior to the
tornado" in 1999.
Few homes built in the town after the storm were secured to their
foundations with bolted plates, which greatly increase resistance to storms;
instead, most were secured with the same kinds of nails and pins that failed
in 1999. Just 6 of 40 new homes had closet-size safe rooms.

I have less sympathy now for the Okies that get blown clean to Oz. *At least
the ones that rejected calls for improved building codes based on claims
"it's too expensive" to build a basement. *Yet the Feds (you and me and our
tax dollars) are expected to help rebuild areas affected by tornadoes and
hurricanes. *How about not giving any disaster funds for rebuilds that DON'T
include basements?


Why is it that you libs immediately want the heavy hand
of govt to come cracking down on those that lost their
homes? Looking at the total devastation, it's not clear
that a basement would have made much difference.
In fact, apparently 7 children drowned in the school basement. Oh,
and contrary to the sensational headline,
the NY Times article actually says that half of the rebuilt
homes do have storm shelters.



What would it really cost if a large township got together and decided to
help underwrite the cost of installing small pre-fab shelters in cities and
towns along Tornado Alley?

And how exactly are all the people going to get to these
shelters in the ten minutes or so that they have?




*Sounds like the readiest "shovel ready" project
around.

Sounds of the libs licking their chops over another
govt spending boondoggle. The govt is already broke.




*Tornado shelters are mass-produced in a pre-fab format that just
drops into a 10 by 10 by 10 hole. *It seems like Californians and
earthquakes, mid-westerners are equally ambivalent about their local menace,
tornadoes.

--

Bobby G.

And in a free country, I say that is there right. If they want
to buy one of those shelters, leave them free to choose.

On 5/6/2013 5:26 PM, Nona wrote:
Hi! We are about to get our roof replaced but are looking into structural changes to make the roof safer in the event of severe weather. We live in an area that has occasional hurricanes and even small tornadoes.

Our property has hundreds of tall oak trees (approximately 1-2 feet in diameter x 70 feet? tall) that are gorgeous but certainly dangerous should they fall on the house. It is not a realistic option to remove all the trees and bracing all of the trees would result in a spiderweb of wires all over the place that is not a safe or realistic option either.

Is there anything we can do to improve our own safety with respect to these trees? I have seen too many news stories during hurricanes where people were killed when a tree fell on their roof.

We have a two-story gable roof with plywood sheathing and architectural shingles. Would it help to reinforce the trusses with horizontal or cross metal braces? Could we put metal sheathing beneath the plywood? Our goal is not to make the roof impervious to trees but rather to give us at least a small amount of time to escape the house safely should a heavy tree fall on the roof.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!


Are these live oaks? If so, they have shallow roots and the larger ones
can smash a house, not just the roof. All of the "hundreds of tall oak
trees" can't be within striking distance of the house! Clean up the
ones that are close, remove branches hanging over the roof, remove dead
wood and open them up....properly pruned by an arborist, the leaf mass
is open to allow the wind to pass THROUGH, not blow down the entire tree.

During hurricane preparedness in FL, we attended an interesting talk by
the local arborist. One feature of live oaks that makes them dangerous
is when two trunks grow together...you can see the enclosed bark on the
main trunk....these split and fall more easily in wind.

I have a ton of pines that are between 60-100 feet tall on my acre lot. By tons I mean at least 100. I could never afford to have those all taken down. Someone needs to invent something to protect a roof that would deflect the weight. We just had a huge limb come down from the biggest pine. It shook the entire house and took two maple trees out with it. Just missed the garage. I love my trees because of the privacy but some make me worry. I just don't have that kind of money. Someone said just the big scary ones would cost $50k

wrote

I have a ton of pines that are between 60-100 feet tall on my acre lot.
By tons I mean at least 100. I could never afford to have those all taken
down. Someone needs to invent something to protect a roof that would
deflect the weight.

You wouldnt be able to afford that either.

We just had a huge limb come down from the biggest pine.
It shook the entire house and took two maple trees out with it.
Just missed the garage. I love my trees because of the privacy
but some make me worry. I just don't have that kind of money.
Someone said just the big scary ones would cost $50k

On Fri, 7 Aug 2020 12:36:03 +1000, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

FLUSH the trolling senile asshole's latest troll**** unread

--
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