Got a problem with a clothes dryer not working. It leaves clothes wetter when it is finished than when it started! That is because it doesnt seem to get hot enough and a certain amount of water feeds into the drum in the normal course of drying.

There is a sensor which I assume tells the element how hot to get and the element itself. The sensor usually dies in this machine and I Have had to replace a few of them. I check the wires and when they start to look burned, a replacement sensor is needed. When I get the sensor out, one terminal usually looks completely burned.

However in the present case, I ordered a new sensor and then found that the one in there LOOKS perfectly OK. The wires look burned but that seems to be because they burned on some last replacement occasion. When I pulled the actual wires off, the terminals look OK and the sensor looks OK.

How can I check the sensor to see if it is really OK or whether the sensor has now failed in some other way? Alternatively how can I check the terminals of the element itself to see if it that part which needs replacement?

Amanda Ripanykhazova wrote:
Got a problem with a clothes dryer not working. It leaves clothes wetter
when it is finished than when it started! That is because it doesnt seem
to get hot enough and a certain amount of water feeds into the drum in
the normal course of drying.

There is a sensor which I assume tells the element how hot to get and the
element itself. The sensor usually dies in this machine and I Have had
to replace a few of them. I check the wires and when they start to look
burned, a replacement sensor is needed. When I get the sensor out, one
terminal usually looks completely burned.

However in the present case, I ordered a new sensor and then found that
the one in there LOOKS perfectly OK. The wires look burned but that seems
to be because they burned on some last replacement occasion. When I
pulled the actual wires off, the terminals look OK and the sensor looks OK.

How can I check the sensor to see if it is really OK or whether the
sensor has now failed in some other way? Alternatively how can I check
the terminals of the element itself to see if it that part which needs replacement?

First, there's no way a dryer leaves clothes wetter than when they started
unless you have a water source feeding into the dryer.

You said "...and a certain amount of water feeds into the drum in the
normal course of drying." Really? From where?

That said, very often the type of problem you described is caused by a
blockage in the exhaust ducts, either internal to the dryer or the exhaust
hose and/or vent.

Cleaning the lint trip every time is a great idea, but it doesn't prevent
lint from building up in other places. I would check the outside vent for
buildup and the exhaust hose itself. If that doesn't help, you'll have to
get to the innards and clean out the ductwork within the dryer itself.

BTDT...Often.

Thanks for the suggestion but we live in a small apartment and needed a ductless dryer. It doesn't vent to the outside and besides the water outlet (I have checked that one), there aren't any filters to clean out.

I never understood why it meeds to feed water into the dryer while it is drying but it does. There is a water input for that purpose.

On 03/21/2013 05:11 PM, Amanda Ripanykhazova wrote:
Got a problem with a clothes dryer not working.
It leaves clothes wetter when it is finished than when it started!

It sounds like you have your washer and your dryer confused.

On 3/21/13 7:33 PM, Ctrl-Alt-Delete wrote:
On 03/21/2013 05:11 PM, Amanda Ripanykhazova wrote:
Got a problem with a clothes dryer not working.
It leaves clothes wetter when it is finished than when it started!

It sounds like you have your washer and your dryer confused.

Is it possibly a w/d combo "all in one" unit ??

On Mar 21, 7:11*pm, Amanda Ripanykhazova
wrote:
Got a problem with a clothes dryer not working. *It leaves clothes wetter when it is finished than when it started! *That is because it doesnt seem to get hot enough and a certain amount of water feeds into the drum in the normal course of drying.

There is a sensor which I assume tells the element how hot to get and the *element itself. The sensor usually dies in this machine and I Have had to replace a few of them. I check the wires and when they start to look burned, a replacement sensor is needed. When I get the sensor out, one terminal usually looks completely burned.

However in the present case, I ordered a new sensor and then found that the one in there LOOKS perfectly OK. The wires look burned but that seems to be because they burned on some last replacement occasion. When I pulled the actual wires off, the terminals look OK and the sensor looks OK.

How can I check the sensor to see *if it is really OK or whether the sensor has now failed in some other way? Alternatively how can I check the terminals of the element itself to see if it that part which needs replacement?

replace the connectors to the sensor, if they looked burned they are
bad......

they get high resistance and dont work reliably, they may heat up, the
burned look and interfer with sensing, or even ruin the new heater.

replace the connector and at least a few inches of the wiring, which
will mlikely look wierd from being overheated,..

Yes, it is a w/d combination unit but the washer bit works properly. The point is that in a past repair, the manufacturer replaced the wiring but for some reason kept the plastic casing around the connectors which look burned.

I thought that the sensor had gone and spent a large amount of money on a new sensor before discovering this. When I came to replace it, I discovered that the sensor in the unit LOOKS new. So now i am wondering whether it is sending the wrong message to the heater element or whether it is the heater element which has gone bad.

So I was wondering how to test each (or whether something else is bad on this unit)

On Mar 21, 10:14*pm, Amanda Ripanykhazova
wrote:
Yes, it is a w/d combination unit but the washer bit works properly. *The point is that in a past repair, the manufacturer replaced the wiring but for some reason kept the plastic casing around the connectors which look burned.

I thought that the sensor had gone and spent a large amount of money on a new sensor before discovering this. When I came to replace it, I discovered that the sensor in the unit LOOKS new. So now i am wondering whether it is sending the wrong message to the heater element or whether it is the heater element which has gone bad.

So I was wondering how to test each (or whether something else is bad on this unit)

http://www.howtomendit.com/search.php

is a appliance repair group, provide the name and model number of your
unit

There are two things you should check right away:

1. The problem could be that the high temperature thermostat is gone.
Dryers have TWO thermostats; a 165 deg. F (typically) thermostat that's used for both the "Whites & Colours" and "Permanent Press" dry cycles and a 145 deg. F (typically) thermostat that's only used for the "Delicates" dry cycle.
Try running the dryer on the Delicates dry cycle and see if it gets quite warm, or at least warm enough to dry clothes. If so, then the problem is a shot high temperature thermostat, and you need to replace it.

2. Electric dryers are 240 volt appliances...
...which means they will have TWO 30 amp fuses or circuit breakers in the electrical panel providing power to the dryer. Check that both fuses or circuit breakers are good/not tripped. If one fuse burns out or one breaker trips, the dryer motor can still run properly (because it works on 120 volts) and the heating element will get warm to the touch, but not red hot, and it needs to be red hot to heat the air being drawn through the dryer by the blower up to 145 or 165 degrees.

If the fuses or circuit breakers haven't blown/tripped and the dryer doesn't heat on either thermostat, then I'd suspect the heating element.

Some dryers have a high limit safety switch that needs to be replaced if the dryer overheats. In that case, you need to find the reason why the dryer overheated and fix that problem, and then also replace the high limit safety switch.

On 3/21/13 10:14 PM, Amanda Ripanykhazova wrote:
Yes, it is a w/d combination unit but the washer bit works properly. The point is that in a past repair, the manufacturer replaced the wiring but for some reason kept the plastic casing around the connectors which look burned.

I thought that the sensor had gone and spent a large amount of money on a new sensor before discovering this. When I came to replace it, I discovered that the sensor in the unit LOOKS new. So now i am wondering whether it is sending the wrong message to the heater element or whether it is the heater element which has gone bad.

So I was wondering how to test each (or whether something else is bad on this unit)


Since it is a combo w/d, and if the clothes are really wetter after a
dry cycle, I would suspect that there is a leak in the internal water
system. And the heat element can't overcome the leaked water.

Likely the water control valve. As a experiment, can you close an
External input water valve before a dry cycle starts ??

On Thursday, March 21, 2013 10:42:31 PM UTC-4, Retired wrote:
On 3/21/13 10:14 PM, Amanda Ripanykhazova wrote:

Yes, it is a w/d combination unit but the washer bit works properly. The point is that in a past repair, the manufacturer replaced the wiring but for some reason kept the plastic casing around the connectors which look burned.



I thought that the sensor had gone and spent a large amount of money on a new sensor before discovering this. When I came to replace it, I discovered that the sensor in the unit LOOKS new. So now i am wondering whether it is sending the wrong message to the heater element or whether it is the heater element which has gone bad.



So I was wondering how to test each (or whether something else is bad on this unit)





Since it is a combo w/d, and if the clothes are really wetter after a

dry cycle, I would suspect that there is a leak in the internal water

system. And the heat element can't overcome the leaked water.



Likely the water control valve. As a experiment, can you close an

External input water valve before a dry cycle starts ??

Yes, I can close the water input valve but the unit then wont start.

Tried the site you mentioned but it doesnt list any of the names this unit goes under: Euro-Pro, M alber, etc. I think it was probably made by Indesit but dont think there is an Indesit model number!

The unit looks like a gigantic number of other units by lots of manufacturers but I suspect that one company makes the external casings for all these machines in Italy and sells them on, So you cant easily identify it. That was wny I was trying to look at how to test components.

Actually I am not really sure how useful that site actually is

I did find a reference to this question being asked about an earlier model about seven years ago. It then waited two years for someone else to answer with a report of a similar problem.

No solutions despite this unit being in widespread use on both sides of the Atlantic in various forms.

I could have told them to check the wires going to the sensor myself!! It would probably have fixed one of the two problem reports or both of them. And the manufacturer lists it as a commonly replaced part (along with the element, (big surprise)

On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 16:11:44 -0700 (PDT), Amanda Ripanykhazova
wrote:

Got a problem with a clothes dryer not working. It leaves clothes wetter w=
hen it is finished than when it started! That is because it doesnt seem to=
get hot enough and a certain amount of water feeds into the drum in the no=
rmal course of drying.

There is a sensor which I assume tells the element how hot to get and the =
element itself. The sensor usually dies in this machine and I Have had to r=
eplace a few of them. I check the wires and when they start to look burned,=
a replacement sensor is needed. When I get the sensor out, one terminal us=
ually looks completely burned.=20

However in the present case, I ordered a new sensor and then found that the=
one in there LOOKS perfectly OK. The wires look burned but that seems to b=
e because they burned on some last replacement occasion. When I pulled the =
actual wires off, the terminals look OK and the sensor looks OK.

How can I check the sensor to see if it is really OK or whether the sensor=
has now failed in some other way? Alternatively how can I check the termin=
als of the element itself to see if it that part which needs replacement?


It may not be relevant to your problem, but when my clothes didn't dry
it was because the fan belt had broken and air wasn't circulating
through the wet clothes.

Ross

On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 16:11:44 -0700 (PDT), Amanda Ripanykhazova
wrote in
Re Problem
with clothes dryer not getting hot enough: How do you test a sensor?:

Got a problem with a clothes dryer not working. It leaves clothes wetter when it is finished than when it started! That is because it doesnt seem to get hot enough and a certain amount of water feeds into the drum in the normal course of drying.

At first I thought this was a pretty lame troll; that no one would be
fool enough to fall for it. But then I see that several fools here
did indeed go for it; so I guess I was wrong.

"VinnyB" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 16:11:44 -0700 (PDT), Amanda Ripanykhazova
wrote in
Re Problem
with clothes dryer not getting hot enough: How do you test a sensor?:

Got a problem with a clothes dryer not working. It leaves clothes wetter
when it is finished than when it started! That is because it doesnt seem to
get hot enough and a certain amount of water feeds into the drum in the
normal course of drying.

At first I thought this was a pretty lame troll; that no one would be
fool enough to fall for it. But then I see that several fools here
did indeed go for it; so I guess I was wrong.

About a number of things. Checking Google doesn't reveal the profile of a
typical troll:

http://www.google.com/search?q=Amanda+Ripanykhazova

The added water could indeed be a failure of a combination washer/dryer
unit, as one of the posters you've labeled a "fool" correctly deduced.

So tell us, what leads you to believe you've been trolled? At least, if
this IS a troll, it's on topic, unlike so many other trolls here, and could
help someone in the future as well as the person asking the question. For a
*real* troll, check out the doghouse thread or most anything posted by
Dufas, the "entertainment troll" or Harry, the Brit that hates America.

--
Bobby G.

On Mar 21, 11:13*pm, Amanda Ripanykhazova
wrote:
On Thursday, March 21, 2013 10:42:31 PM UTC-4, Retired wrote:
On 3/21/13 10:14 PM, Amanda Ripanykhazova wrote:

Yes, it is a w/d combination unit but the washer bit works properly. *The point is that in a past repair, the manufacturer replaced the wiring but for some reason kept the plastic casing around the connectors which look burned.

I thought that the sensor had gone and spent a large amount of money on a new sensor before discovering this. When I came to replace it, I discovered that the sensor in the unit LOOKS new. So now i am wondering whether it is sending the wrong message to the heater element or whether it is the heater element which has gone bad.

So I was wondering how to test each (or whether something else is bad on this unit)

Since it is a combo w/d, and if the clothes are really wetter after a

dry cycle, I would suspect that there is a leak in the internal water

system. And the heat element can't overcome the leaked water.

Likely the water control valve. As a experiment, can you close an

External input water valve before a dry cycle starts ??

Yes, I can close the water input valve but the unit then wont start.

That's interesting. A combined washer/dryer unit won't
do a dry cycle without water? That's one of the big drawbacks to
these combined units. More complex, easier for one little
thing to screw up the whole works. I think Retired's idea that
water may be leaking in is an interesting one, IF it's really
true that the clothes are coming out wetter than when they
went in. Water being added is the only way that's possible.
On the other hand, if that's what's happening due to a
leaking valve, then one would think it would continue with the
unit off and flood the place. I guess it's possible something
is screwed up that tells the valve to open at times when the
unit is active.

How about if the water is turned on when it's started
and then turned off once it starts drying? Maybe it checks
for water at startup and doesn't care after....

"Retired" wrote in message
...
On 3/21/13 10:14 PM, Amanda Ripanykhazova wrote:
Yes, it is a w/d combination unit but the washer bit works properly.
The point is that in a past repair, the manufacturer replaced the wiring but
for some reason kept the plastic casing around the connectors which look
burned.

I thought that the sensor had gone and spent a large amount of money on
a new sensor before discovering this. When I came to replace it, I
discovered that the sensor in the unit LOOKS new. So now i am wondering
whether it is sending the wrong message to the heater element or whether it
is the heater element which has gone bad.

So I was wondering how to test each (or whether something else is bad on
this unit)


Since it is a combo w/d, and if the clothes are really wetter after a
dry cycle, I would suspect that there is a leak in the internal water
system. And the heat element can't overcome the leaked water.

Likely the water control valve. As a experiment, can you close an
External input water valve before a dry cycle starts ??

"Retired," that's an excellent idea for a test to determine if there's a
leak within the system. By the OP's description this problem is not like
previous problems because the sensor does not appear to be burned as it has
in the past.

The OP can test the sensor if she has a thermometer and a meter that can
test for continuity. The sensor is designed to cut out (stops passing
electrical current) when a certain temperature, usually stamped on the part
itself, is exceeded. If this unit has failed in the "open" state then the
dryer's heating element will never kick in.

Another sensor prone to problems is the humidity sensor. That's a little
harder to test. You can try placing completely dry clothes in the dryer and
then turning on the dryer. If the sensor is OK it should run for a few
moments and then shut down right away.

I'd try "Retired's" suggestion of shutting off the water supply to make sure
that there's no leak that wetting the clothes as the dryer is trying to dry
them.

If you think the heating element has failed, you can bypass the thermostatic
control sensor with a small jumper cable and run the dryer for a few
minutes. If it fails to heat up at all, a bad heating element could be a
distinct possibility. You can bypass the humidstat the same way. Remember
to remove the jumper when you've finished the test so you don't burn the
house down!

--
Bobby G.

On Mar 22, 6:07*am, VinnyB wrote:

At first I thought this was a pretty lame troll; that no one would be
fool enough to fall for it. *But then I see that several fools here
did indeed go for it; so I guess I was wrong.

No, you were right. No make or model number suggests nothing to these
fools, they go straight to diagnostic mode without plugging in.

Using a female name can prompt them to spend a week on the line trying
to coax free the pertinent information, and another week after someone
points out they've been trolled, again.
-----

- gpsman

"gpsman" wrote in message
...
On Mar 22, 6:07 am, VinnyB wrote:

At first I thought this was a pretty lame troll; that no one would be
fool enough to fall for it. But then I see that several fools here
did indeed go for it; so I guess I was wrong.

No, you were right. No make or model number suggests nothing to these
fools, they go straight to diagnostic mode without plugging in.

What? Did you check Google before you made your troll accusation?

http://www.google.com/search?q=Amanda+Ripanykhazova

You appear to have gone straight to "troll accusation mode" without *you*
plugging in and ended up calling some of your fellow newsgroupers fools
because they tried to help someone.

I've already learned something new just from reading the on-topic thread, no
matter how it started so there's already been value added in the thread. I
always welcome the chance to see what diagnostic skills other posters have
with topics I know about so I know whether to trust them with topics I am
not familiar with. Several people have made some very good observations
about potential problems, so even if the OP was a troll, there's good
information being exchanged and archived.

With all the race-baiting political trolling and sock puppetry that goes on
here, you sure picked an odd and on-topic post to get worked up enough to
call other people fools who erred on the side of helpfulness and tried to
help someone you labeled a troll. Sheesh. What a welcome.

Using a female name can prompt them to spend a week on the line trying to
coax free the pertinent information, and another week after someone points
out they've been trolled, again.

"Them?" Who do you mean by "them?" What you did: not checking Google
before shouting "Troll!" is almost exactly what you accused others of doing
(going straight to diagnostic mode) but worse. The people who tried to
answer the question added value to the world and the Google archive. What
value did YOU add? Just some name-calling and a dash of "Look at me, I am
smarter than them!" Double sheesh.

Would you give me 10 cents for every legitimate post for help that didn't
immediately include a make and model number? After all, that seems to be
the measure you use to judge if someone's a troll. That and if the poster's
female. Triple sheesh. I hope Norminn's reading this.

Remind me who the troll is again? (-: The guys who try to help or the guy
who calls them fools for trying?

--
Bobby G.

"nestork" wrote in message
...

There are two things you should check right away:

1. The problem could be that the high temperature thermostat is gone.
Dryers have TWO thermostats; a 165 deg. F (typically) thermostat
that's used for both the "Whites & Colours" and "Permanent Press" dry
cycles and a 145 deg. F (typically) thermostat that's only used for the
"Delicates" dry cycle.
Try running the dryer on the Delicates dry cycle and see if it gets
quite warm, or at least warm enough to dry clothes. If so, then the
problem is a shot high temperature thermostat, and you need to replace
it.

It would be nice to be able to determine how much current the unit is
drawing. Not sure how to do that short of isolating a service wire and
using a tong meter. I've not seen a Kill-o-watt meter that runs on 240VAC.
If the washing machine component is leaking into the dryer, even if the
heating element activates, there won't be much drying getting done. It may
be possible to detect a slight rise in temperature, though.

Still, I'd probably want to test the unit watching an ammeter to see if the
element was indeed cycling on and off. Sometimes the problem can be
short-cycling where the heating element is being activated, but for some
reason is not reaching operating temperature. There is probably another
thermal shutoff device located right on the heater element assembly that may
have failed but I've never serviced a combo unit and this may be foreign
made, as well, so who knows?

2. Electric dryers are 240 volt appliances...
..which means they will have TWO 30 amp fuses or circuit breakers
in the electrical panel providing power to the dryer. Check that both
fuses or circuit breakers are good/not tripped. If one fuse burns out
or one breaker trips, the dryer motor can still run properly (because it
works on 120 volts) and the heating element will get warm to the touch,
but not red hot, and it needs to be red hot to heat the air being drawn
through the dryer by the blower up to 145 or 165 degrees.

Good point. Put that under yet another reason why the element may not be
getting hot enough.

If the fuses or circuit breakers haven't blown/tripped and the
dryer doesn't heat on either thermostat, then I'd suspect the heating
element.

Some dryers have a high limit safety switch that needs to be replaced if
the dryer overheats. In that case, you need to find the reason why the
dryer overheated and fix that problem, and then also replace the high
limit safety switch.

DerbyDad zeroed in on the number one cause of heating element trouble in my
experience - lint. I would start with a thorough blowout/cleanout of the
unit and the dryer vent before even looking at other issues.

Last time this happened to a friend (wet clothes) the dryer vent had become
home to a bunch of birds - house wrens, IIRC. I was amazed at how much
nesting material they had brought into the vent pipe. This happened even
with a bird flap on the exterior vent. They learned how to pop it open in
very short order and it probably helped keep them safe by keeping larger
predators out.

The symptom of that fiasco was that the dryer vent pipe starting dripping
condensate inside the house at the point of the bird blockage. Oddly
enough, the water traveled quite a distance from the leak point along the
ceiling tiles and it didn't appear until a number of hours after the dryer
was used.

--
Bobby G.

Thanks for that last paragraph Bobby, that was what I was looking for. I will try it.

Curiously, next to the sensor which is a long pointed device that extends into the vent shaft, there IS another flat round electrical device which looks like some kind of secondary sensor and which also has burned wires (or wire covers!) going to it. But that isnt a commonly replaceable part. I will have to check the spade terminals on that now.

How come no one believes that with this unit, even though there doesn't appear to be any sensor to tell when clothes are dry, a small amount of water feeds into the unit while drying to help prevent wrinkling etc? If that water doesn't evap with the heat and get pumped away, you would expect clothes to come out wetter than they went in? To me it seems obvious that it is the sensor or the element? But that is without applying any lateral thinking, which is why I came here. (even if I have to accept that there will be a certain amount of trolling coming from certain elements like VinnyB & GPSMan)

More likely is the pump in this condenser unit: Not a whole lot evaps like in a normal vented dryer, everything is pumped out. I wonder if there is a chance that the pump isn't working or isn't working properly. Unfortunately I cant easily disconnect the drain so see what is being pumped out during the dry cycle.

On Mar 22, 11:00*am, Amanda Ripanykhazova
wrote:
Thanks for that last paragraph Bobby, that was what I was looking for. I will try it.

Curiously, next to the sensor which is a long pointed device that extends into the vent shaft, there IS another flat round electrical device which looks like some kind of secondary sensor and which also has burned wires (or wire covers!) going to it. *But that isnt a commonly replaceable part. *I will have to check the spade terminals on that now.

How come no one believes that with this unit, even though there doesn't appear to be any sensor to tell when clothes are dry, *a small amount of water feeds into the unit while drying to help prevent wrinkling etc?

The reason people are having a hard time believing it is
because most of them have never seen a dryer that uses
water. This is indeed a feature of some modern high-end dryers,
where steam is used for that.
The idea is as you say to take wrinkles out. Now, I would
think that would only happen if you select a special steam
cycle. But some googling shows that apparently these
dryers may introduce steam at some point in the drying
cycle for wet clothes too.




If that water doesn't evap with the heat and get pumped away,
you would expect clothes to come out wetter than they went in?

Yes, with this type of dryer if the water doesn't turn to steam
because the heat doesn't work, then I could see that happening.





To me it seems obvious *that it is the sensor or the element? But that
is without applying any lateral thinking, which is why I came here.
(even if I have to accept that there will be a certain amount of
trolling coming from certain elements like VinnyB & GPSMan)

It could be a sensor, the element, the wiring, a control
board, relay, etc.... The way I fix things like that is to get
a circuit diagram. There is usually one of those in the unit
itself, typically pasted on the back or maybe on the back of
one of the main access panels, or sometimes just a folded
up sheet stuck inside behind a panel. With that and a test
meter I trace out the circuit to try to determine what is
not working and why.




More likely is the pump in this condenser unit: Not a whole lot evaps like in a normal vented dryer, everything is pumped out. I wonder if there is a chance that the pump isn't working or isn't working properly. Unfortunately I cant easily disconnect the drain so see what is being pumped out during the dry cycle.

I have no idea how that part of the dryer works, never
seen one.

Look, I don't know how a condenser unit works but am reasonably sure it doesn't work strictly by evaporation. The evap'ing going on is just a precursor to pumping the evaporated water out. There is no (lint) trap to clean out..
http://malberappliance.com/WD1000Par...gsCombined.pdf Similarly, there is no fuse to check IN this machine.

And there are only two drying cycles, one a heated one and the other (I never figured out what it is for and have never used it) a non-heated one which just tumbles. I assume this is for a minuscule amount of exceptionally delicate pieces. But I will go back and try it to see if there is ANY heating going on at all in that cycle as your suggestion is a good one in theory

On 3/22/2013 6:19 AM, Robert Booby Green wrote:
"VinnyB" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 21 Mar 2013 16:11:44 -0700 (PDT), Amanda Ripanykhazova
wrote in
Re Problem
with clothes dryer not getting hot enough: How do you test a sensor?:

Got a problem with a clothes dryer not working. It leaves clothes wetter
when it is finished than when it started! That is because it doesnt seem to
get hot enough and a certain amount of water feeds into the drum in the
normal course of drying.

At first I thought this was a pretty lame troll; that no one would be
fool enough to fall for it. But then I see that several fools here
did indeed go for it; so I guess I was wrong.

About a number of things. Checking Google doesn't reveal the profile of a
typical troll:

http://www.google.com/search?q=Amanda+Ripanykhazova

The added water could indeed be a failure of a combination washer/dryer
unit, as one of the posters you've labeled a "fool" correctly deduced.

So tell us, what leads you to believe you've been trolled? At least, if
this IS a troll, it's on topic, unlike so many other trolls here, and could
help someone in the future as well as the person asking the question. For a
*real* troll, check out the doghouse thread or most anything posted by
Dufas, the "entertainment troll" or Harry, the Brit that hates America.

--
Booby G.



Of course we can't leave out the mouthpiece of the P.L.L.C.F. Troll,
Booby Green. Write us a novella Booby, the codswallop you spew will
obfuscate something. ^_^

TDD

Actually I do kinda need a wiring diagram or at least some interpretation.

There is a mystery grey wire which comes out of the wiring loom and heads generally towards the rear terminal of that secondary sensor. As far as I can see, it goes into the loom, going towards the rear of the unit. A grey wire does emerge from the rear of the loom and connects to one terminal of the dryer fan.

The sensor itself has clean terminals and the spade connectors are clean and show no signs of arcing. But I wonder whether that grey wire does in fact go to that rear terminal along with the wire which is already connected to it? The wires coming off the spades do look a bit burned and frayed so I suppose the gray wire could come off it.

THe manufacturer's agent was clueless as to what this wire is and whether it IS supposed to go somewhere. There are two other mystery wires, both orange. One comes from the front panel and ends in a spade terminal which isnt connected to anything. There is also another orange wire (emerging from the loom) which also appears clipped off and doesnt look as if it was ever connected to anything

On Mar 22, 8:30*am, "
wrote:
On Mar 22, 11:00*am, Amanda Ripanykhazova
wrote:

Thanks for that last paragraph Bobby, that was what I was looking for. I will try it.

Curiously, next to the sensor which is a long pointed device that extends into the vent shaft, there IS another flat round electrical device which looks like some kind of secondary sensor and which also has burned wires (or wire covers!) going to it. *But that isnt a commonly replaceable part. *I will have to check the spade terminals on that now.

How come no one believes that with this unit, even though there doesn't appear to be any sensor to tell when clothes are dry, *a small amount of water feeds into the unit while drying to help prevent wrinkling etc?

The reason people are having a hard time believing it is
because most of them have never seen a dryer that uses
water. * This is indeed a feature of some modern high-end dryers,
where steam is used for that.
The idea is as you say to take wrinkles out. *Now, I would
think that would only happen if you select a special steam
cycle. *But some googling shows that apparently these
dryers may introduce steam at some point in the drying
cycle for wet clothes too.

If that water doesn't evap with the heat and get pumped away,
you would expect clothes to come out wetter than they went in?

Yes, with this type of dryer if the water doesn't turn to steam
because the heat doesn't work, then I could see that happening.

To me it seems obvious *that it is the sensor or the element? But that
is without applying any lateral thinking, which is why I came here.
(even if I have to accept that there will be a certain amount of
trolling coming from certain elements like VinnyB & GPSMan)

It could be a sensor, the element, the wiring, a control
board, relay, etc.... * *The way I fix things like that is to get
a circuit diagram. *There is usually one of those in the unit
itself, typically pasted on the back or maybe on the back of
one of the main access panels, or sometimes just a folded
up sheet stuck inside behind a panel. *With that and a test
meter I trace out the circuit to try to determine what is
not working and why.



More likely is the pump in this condenser unit: Not a whole lot evaps like in a normal vented dryer, everything is pumped out. I wonder if there is a chance that the pump isn't working or isn't working properly. Unfortunately I cant easily disconnect the drain so see what is being pumped out during the dry cycle.

I have no idea how that part of the dryer works, never
seen one.


The OP is not a troll.... he just has a machine that most of us are
unfamilair with.

http://malberappliance.com/wd2000usermanual.pdf

As mentioned & discussed in a number of followup posts, this is a
combo machine; it washes & dries in the same tub!
I had the misfortune for having to used a machine of this type nearly
10 years ago in New Zealand.

It took over 3 HOURS to do a pair of jeans, some socks & rugby jersey
and they still came out damp.
IME these type of machine suck...even when they're working.
I can imagine they're some sort of "green thinking" run amok.

But they probably do save a lot of energy...
washing & drying take so long, one decides to do fewer loads.

Take a look at the manual... cycle times are shown on page 11.
Read the Troubleshooting section...pages 16 & 17

There is a note on page 11 about load size during drying... the dry
times range from 2 to 2.5 hours!
On pages 16 & 17 is gives "tips" to improve drying performance.
There is also a note that total cycle times could be as long as 4
HOURS!

It also reveals the tidbit that drying load capacity is 1/2 of the
washing load capacity! WTF?

Question.. I often see washer capacity noted in 'lbs' . I this
manual it talks about 11 lbs, I see US washer rated at 20 lbs.
Are the these the weight of the dry clothes? I've also seen washers
rated by cubic feet. What's the deal?

Clearly the OP's combo machine is "Suzie Homemaker" sized, cabinet is
only 23-1/2" wide.

All in all....imo, this type of machine is a total POS.
I seriously doubt that they save any energy in the long run, since
they expose clothes to excessively long dry cycles and the attendant
abrasive wear.

I think the problem with this thread.... a number of people think it's
trolling & a number of people are applying "US style dryer" diagnosis
to it. When in reality, it's a "real" machine & its performance
sucks.

Link to explanation of condensing dryer... I didn't vet this info for
100% accuracy but it seems like a dehumidifier for clothes.

cheers
Bob

All in all....imo, this type of machine is a total POS.

I seriously doubt that they save any energy in the long run, since

they expose clothes to excessively long dry cycles and the attendant

abrasive wear.



I think the problem with this thread.... a number of people think it's

trolling & a number of people are applying "US style dryer" diagnosis

to it. When in reality, it's a "real" machine & its performance

sucks.

cheers

Bob

I think you are probably right but I have used this machine reasonably successfully for a decade or so in various incarnations and it has always more or less worked, even with the limitations you mention. What I need now isnt to read/ignore all the trolls here, but to use your & Optonline's diagnostics on the parts and/or try to figure out whether that mystery grey wire floating around which may connect the secondary sensor to the fan is the problem.

On Mar 22, 1:52*pm, Amanda Ripanykhazova
wrote:
Actually I do kinda need a wiring diagram or at least some interpretation..

There is a mystery grey wire which comes out of the wiring loom and heads generally towards the rear terminal of that secondary sensor. *As far as I can see, it goes into the loom, going towards the rear of the unit. A grey wire does emerge from the rear of the loom and connects to one terminal of the dryer fan.

The sensor itself has clean terminals and the spade connectors are clean and show no signs of arcing. *But I wonder whether that grey wire does in fact go to that rear terminal along with the wire which is already connected to it? *The wires coming off the spades do look *a bit burned and frayed so I suppose the gray wire could come off it.

THe manufacturer's agent was clueless as to what this wire is and whether it IS supposed to go somewhere. * There are two other mystery wires, both orange. One comes from the front panel and ends in a spade terminal which isnt connected to anything. *There is also another orange wire (emerging from the loom) which also appears clipped off and doesnt look as if it was ever connected to anything

I don't know how anyone here can help you with any of that.
We don't even know what kind of "sensor" it is. Can you
get the sensor out easily? Does it have a part # on it?
If so, you could try googling for the sensor part # and maybe
you'll find some discussion somewhere about what kind of
sensor it is, how it works, how to test it, etc.

As I said before, my approach with this kind of thing is
to try to figure out the operational principles of the machine,
ie what has to happen for voltage to go to whatever heats
it and then figure out what is preventing it. Otherwise you're
just going to start replacing parts without knowing if it's
really bad or not. That approach works for a lot of repairmen that
have an inventory of parts to swap. But for
us, it can get expensive.

On Fri, 22 Mar 2013 10:47:22 -0400, "Robert Green"
wrote in Re
Problem with clothes dryer not getting hot enough: How do you test
a sensor?:

What? Did you check Google before you made your troll accusation?

No, but you did it for us; so no need to bother. Thanks.

It still looks like a troll.

Amanda Ripanykhazova wrote:
Look, I don't know how a condenser unit works but am er out. There is no (lint) trap to clean out.
http://malberappliance.com/WD1000Par...gsCombined.pdf Similarly, there is no fuse to check IN this machine.

And there are only two drying cycles,

The sensor, which you think is bad is called an *Oompah* valve. Ask the
dealer about it, it's a common problem with that appliance.

On Mar 26, 3:04*am, The Daring Dufas the-daring-du...@stinky-
finger.net wrote:


Oh my God Booby Green, I knew you would write another novel. You
P.L.L.C.F. types are the most fun of all with your always wrong
assertions and your bizarre assumptions.


Don't you find it interesting how he compared you to a terrorist?
Isn't that a lib loon classic? I mean, let's assume he's right and
you're a troll. Compare an internet troll to a terrorist? It just
shows how out of touch he is. Did a troll kill 3200 Americans
on 911? Then he tops it off by bitching about someone else
calling someone a Nazi...... Go figure.

Then for good measure he throws in this:

"The only way out now is a retraction. Just like men's room footsie-
playing
gay Republican Congressman Larry Craig tried to pull. Do you have a
wide-stance defense for your trolling like he did? "

If a Republican ever made such a remark, it would be immediately
condemed by Bobby and all the libs as a bigotted hate crime and
a smear against gays. But when he does it, it's cool.....

And of course if a conservative every wrote a whole novel like that,
why it would be a shining example of their intolerance and rage.



The most entertaining thing
about you and those of your ilk is the fact that you really think you're
important and that you matter. Good luck with that Booby Troll. I think
it wonderful that you believe in free speech only as long as it's your
own or what you believe in or approve of. I especially was
touched by your threat to contact the news service I'm using and
complain so you could get me banned. You can always killfile me if you
hate and despise my posts but of course I would never killfile anyone
as goofy as you over what you may believe or write because it's too
entertaining. Keep trying Booby G., perhaps you may actually insult me
if you spew enough of your insipid vitriol. ^_^

TDD


Boy, you sure succeeded in rattling his cage. Apparently it doesn't
take much. Maybe he's off his medicine. I have pictures of
him running around the house, concealed carry weapon out and
waving around in his hand, kicking the cat, smashing vases,
screaming I hate you Dufas! You're a terrorist!

this does appear to be a type of dryer that is "new" to many of us

http://ths.gardenweb.com/faq/lists/l...958010854.html

yes it is essentially a de-humidifer for clothes.

so if it is a condensing dryer, and the so called outer loop is a
water loop, then what the OP said starts to make sense. The machine
won't run without a water supply because it uses the water flow to
cool the condenser ?

So if the machine has a refrigeration cycle similar to a DE-humidifer,
and the refrigeration section is not working, there is a whole list of
things that could possibly be wrong...

OP, when the machine was working in the past, did it make a humming
sound like an air conditioner?

Does it still make that sound now?

Mark

ok, most of these are NOT refrigeration based...
but this paragraph is relevant to the Op

With most current standalone condenser dryers, it is necessary to
periodically clean the condenser unit - perhaps once a month or so,
one needs to slide out the condenser module and wash off any
accumulated lint. Thus condensers require a bit more "work" than
vented dryers - although this may entail less actual effort than the
recommended annual ductwork cleaning for vented dryers (which is very
important for both performance and fire safety reasons!).

Mark

On 3/26/2013 6:54 AM, wrote:
On Mar 26, 3:04 am, The Daring Dufas the-daring-du...@stinky-
finger.net wrote:


Oh my God Booby Green, I knew you would write another novel. You
P.L.L.C.F. types are the most fun of all with your always wrong
assertions and your bizarre assumptions.


Don't you find it interesting how he compared you to a terrorist?
Isn't that a lib loon classic? I mean, let's assume he's right and
you're a troll. Compare an internet troll to a terrorist? It just
shows how out of touch he is. Did a troll kill 3200 Americans on
911? Then he tops it off by bitching about someone else calling
someone a Nazi...... Go figure.

Then for good measure he throws in this:

"The only way out now is a retraction. Just like men's room footsie-
playing gay Republican Congressman Larry Craig tried to pull. Do you
have a wide-stance defense for your trolling like he did? "

If a Republican ever made such a remark, it would be immediately
condemed by Bobby and all the libs as a bigotted hate crime and a
smear against gays. But when he does it, it's cool.....

And of course if a conservative every wrote a whole novel like that,
why it would be a shining example of their intolerance and rage.



The most entertaining thing about you and those of your ilk is the
fact that you really think you're important and that you matter.
Good luck with that Booby Troll. I think it wonderful that you
believe in free speech only as long as it's your own or what you
believe in or approve of. I especially was touched by your threat
to contact the news service I'm using and complain so you could
get me banned. You can always killfile me if you hate and despise
my posts but of course I would never killfile anyone as goofy as
you over what you may believe or write because it's too
entertaining. Keep trying Booby G., perhaps you may actually insult
me if you spew enough of your insipid vitriol. ^_^

TDD


Boy, you sure succeeded in rattling his cage. Apparently it doesn't
take much. Maybe he's off his medicine. I have pictures of him
running around the house, concealed carry weapon out and waving
around in his hand, kicking the cat, smashing vases, screaming I
hate you Dufas! You're a terrorist!


I'll never understand those who suffer from HISI, Humor Irony Sarcasm
Impairment. You tease them and they take it as a personal attack and
believe you must hate them and wish death and destruction upon them.
I've seen it in both Liberals and Conservatives so it's not confined
to a single archetype but does seem to afflict the P.L.L.C.F. types
more often. Bobby must actually believe I want bad things to happen
to him and it's the most bizarre thing I've come across in this
newsgroup but there are all kinds of people. When Bobby calls me or
anyone else a troll, I have to laugh at the absurdity of the pot calling
the kettle black. Heck, I just got back from a hundred mile round trip
to fix a DSL problem for a commercial customer and I'm hurting like hell
but I must take off again to fix a phone system at an auto parts store.
Darn it, it's been chilly around here the last several days and
my hair hurts. I haven't bit anyone's head off today so perhaps I'll
find a few cockroaches to stomp while I giggle maniacally. o_O

TDD

On Tue, 26 Mar 2013 05:54:15 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

Boy, you sure succeeded in rattling his cage. Apparently it doesn't
take much. Maybe he's off his medicine. I have pictures of
him running around the house, concealed carry weapon out and
waving around in his hand, kicking the cat, smashing vases,
screaming I hate you Dufas! You're a terrorist!

....or worse, a wide stance Republican in an airport urinal stall.

On Tuesday, March 26, 2013 4:25:48 PM UTC-4, Mark wrote:
ok, most of these are NOT refrigeration based...

but this paragraph is relevant to the Op



With most current standalone condenser dryers, it is necessary to

periodically clean the condenser unit - perhaps once a month or so,

one needs to slide out the condenser module and wash off any

accumulated lint. Thus condensers require a bit more "work" than

vented dryers - although this may entail less actual effort than the

recommended annual ductwork cleaning for vented dryers (which is very

important for both performance and fire safety reasons!).



Mark

Good idea but there is no material trap of any type to clean out, whether condenser or not. Yes it does hum a bit but I hadn't thought that this was relevant to why it doesn't dry well. It also habitually grinds a bit which sounds wrong but there again, it doesn't seem relevant. Again, I know that the sensor is commonly replaced but am reluctant to waste money by putting a replacement in if the problem is with the element. I suspect the only thing which is going to help me is finding out where that grey wire goes on this unit.

As the service/importer wouldn't tell me, I suppose I may have to ask the manufacturer in Italy who I am sure isn't set up to respond to this type of question. Then hope that if I connect it correctly, the heater will suddenly spring to life.

If anyone knows where there may be a wiring diagram for this unit under any of the plethora of names which are used, I would appreciate it as I am reasonably sure there isn't much wrong with the sensor or the element!

On Mar 27, 9:09*am, Amanda Ripanykhazova
wrote:
On Tuesday, March 26, 2013 4:25:48 PM UTC-4, Mark wrote:
ok, most of these are NOT refrigeration based...

but this paragraph is relevant to the Op

With most current standalone condenser dryers, it is necessary to

periodically clean the condenser unit - perhaps once a month or so,

one needs to slide out the condenser module and wash off any

accumulated lint. Thus condensers require a bit more "work" than

vented dryers - although this may entail less actual effort than the

recommended annual ductwork cleaning for vented dryers (which is very

important for both performance and fire safety reasons!).

Mark

Good idea but there is no material trap of any type to clean out, whether condenser or not. *Yes it does hum a bit but I hadn't thought that this was relevant to why it doesn't dry well. It also habitually grinds a bit which sounds wrong but there again, it doesn't seem relevant. Again, I know that the sensor is commonly replaced but am reluctant to waste money by putting a replacement in if the problem is with the element. I suspect the only thing which is going to help me is finding out where that grey wire goes on this unit.

As the service/importer wouldn't tell me, I suppose I may have to ask the manufacturer in Italy who I am sure isn't set up to respond to this type of question. *Then hope that if I connect it correctly, the heater will suddenly spring to life.

If anyone knows where there may be a wiring diagram for this unit under any of the plethora of names which are used, I would appreciate it as I am reasonably sure there isn't much wrong with the sensor or the element!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

As I suggested previously, have you tried looking for
a wiring diagram on the back of the unit? Or behind
the back cover panel? I've even seen them as folded up
sheets stuck inside, behind one of the main access
panels that a service guy would take off.

On Wednesday, March 27, 2013 9:09:07 AM UTC-4, Amanda Ripanykhazova wrote: On Tuesday, March 26, 2013 4:25:48 PM UTC-4, Mark wrote: ok, most of these are NOT refrigeration based... but this paragraph is relevant to the Op With most current standalone condenser dryers, it is necessary to periodically clean the condenser unit - perhaps once a month or so, one needs to slide out the condenser module and wash off any accumulated lint. Thus condensers require a bit more "work" than vented dryers - although this may entail less actual effort than the recommended annual ductwork cleaning for vented dryers (which is very important for both performance and fire safety reasons!). Mark Good idea but there is no material trap of any type to clean out, whether condenser or not. Yes it does hum a bit but I hadn't thought that this was relevant to why it doesn't dry well. It also habitually grinds a bit which sounds wrong but there again, it doesn't seem relevant. Again, I know that the sensor is commonly replaced but am reluctant to waste money by putting a replacement in if the problem is with the element. I suspect the only thing which is going to help me is finding out where that grey wire goes on this unit. As the service/importer wouldn't tell me, I suppose I may have to ask the manufacturer in Italy who I am sure isn't set up to respond to this type of question. Then hope that if I connect it correctly, the heater will suddenly spring to life. If anyone knows where there may be a wiring diagram for this unit under any of the plethora of names which are used, I would appreciate it as I am reasonably sure there isn't much wrong with the sensor or the element!

It's common for manufacturers to tape a folded up wiring diagrahm and schematic inside appliances. This keeps the service guys from having to haul around hundreds of them. You have a combination washer, condensing dryer. It does not add water to the clothes during the drying cycle but may use water to cool the condensing unit. They are not usually very good at drying but make up for it some by having a really high spin cycle at the end of the wash phase. And if you do not have a outside vent there's not much you can do

I don't know your specific model but generally there are several temp sensors on the drying cycle as well as possibly a moisture sensor. The temp sensors may include ones to prevent it from going over a certain temp while running as well as a safety sensor that has a higher temp. Often the safety one is a one-shot, once it has been tripped it must be replaced. That's on the theory that some other failure caused it to be tripped and the appliance needs other work as well as a new safety temp sensor.

Finding the schematic is going to be very helpful. Some google searches might help you as many manufacturers also make theoir schematics available online. These are also not super complicated so it is possible to trace the heating circuit out by hand. And a volt ohm meter would help a lot with this and with trouble shooting in general. As a general rule the temp sensors will be closed when cool if they are wired in series with the heating element.. If they are connected to a main control board they may be open when cool and closed when hot. You can check these with a hair dryer. You can also check for continuity of the heating element. If you can get enough covers off to get to the heating element but still be able to run the unit you can also check for voltage at the heating element while it is running.

On Wednesday, March 27, 2013 10:06:14 AM UTC-4, jamesgang wrote:
On Wednesday, March 27, 2013 9:09:07 AM UTC-4, Amanda Ripanykhazova wrote: On Tuesday, March 26, 2013 4:25:48 PM UTC-4, Mark wrote: ok, most of these are NOT refrigeration based... but this paragraph is relevant to the Op With most current standalone condenser dryers, it is necessary to periodically clean the condenser unit - perhaps once a month or so, one needs to slide out the condenser module and wash off any accumulated lint. Thus condensers require a bit more "work" than vented dryers - although this may entail less actual effort than the recommended annual ductwork cleaning for vented dryers (which is very important for both performance and fire safety reasons!). Mark Good idea but there is no material trap of any type to clean out, whether condenser or not. Yes it does hum a bit but I hadn't thought that this was relevant to why it doesn't dry well. It also habitually grinds a bit which sounds wrong but there again, it doesn't seem relevant. Again, I know that the sensor is commonly replaced but am reluctant to waste money by putting a replacement in if the problem is with the element. I suspect the only thing which is going to help me is finding out where that grey wire goes on this unit. As the service/importer wouldn't tell me, I suppose I may have to ask the manufacturer in Italy who I am sure isn't set up to respond to this type of question.. Then hope that if I connect it correctly, the heater will suddenly spring to life. If anyone knows where there may be a wiring diagram for this unit under any of the plethora of names which are used, I would appreciate it as I am reasonably sure there isn't much wrong with the sensor or the element!



It's common for manufacturers to tape a folded up wiring diagrahm and schematic inside appliances. This keeps the service guys from having to haul around hundreds of them. You have a combination washer, condensing dryer. It does not add water to the clothes during the drying cycle but may use water to cool the condensing unit. They are not usually very good at drying but make up for it some by having a really high spin cycle at the end of the wash phase. And if you do not have a outside vent there's not much you can do



I don't know your specific model but generally there are several temp sensors on the drying cycle as well as possibly a moisture sensor. The temp sensors may include ones to prevent it from going over a certain temp while running as well as a safety sensor that has a higher temp. Often the safety one is a one-shot, once it has been tripped it must be replaced. That's on the theory that some other failure caused it to be tripped and the appliance needs other work as well as a new safety temp sensor.



Finding the schematic is going to be very helpful. Some google searches might help you as many manufacturers also make theoir schematics available online. These are also not super complicated so it is possible to trace the heating circuit out by hand. And a volt ohm meter would help a lot with this and with trouble shooting in general. As a general rule the temp sensors will be closed when cool if they are wired in series with the heating element. If they are connected to a main control board they may be open when cool and closed when hot. You can check these with a hair dryer. You can also check for continuity of the heating element. If you can get enough covers off to get to the heating element but still be able to run the unit you can also check for voltage at the heating element while it is running.

No, I have had this thing apart numerous times and there is no wiring diagram in it.

But the sensor idea is a good one as the one next to the replaceable one does look a bit burned (again, the plastic cover, not the spades themselves)

On Wednesday, March 27, 2013 10:36:17 PM UTC-4, Amanda Ripanykhazova wrote:
On Wednesday, March 27, 2013 10:06:14 AM UTC-4, jamesgang wrote: On Wednesday, March 27, 2013 9:09:07 AM UTC-4, Amanda Ripanykhazova wrote: On Tuesday, March 26, 2013 4:25:48 PM UTC-4, Mark wrote: ok, most of these are NOT refrigeration based... but this paragraph is relevant to the Op With most current standalone condenser dryers, it is necessary to periodically clean the condenser unit - perhaps once a month or so, one needs to slide out the condenser module and wash off any accumulated lint. Thus condensers require a bit more "work" than vented dryers - although this may entail less actual effort than the recommended annual ductwork cleaning for vented dryers (which is very important for both performance and fire safety reasons!). Mark Good idea but there is no material trap of any type to clean out, whether condenser or not. Yes it does hum a bit but I hadn't thought that this was relevant to why it doesn't dry well. It also habitually grinds a bit which sounds wrong but there again, it doesn't seem relevant. Again, I know that the sensor is commonly replaced but am reluctant to waste money by putting a replacement in if the problem is with the element. I suspect the only thing which is going to help me is finding out where that grey wire goes on this unit. As the service/importer wouldn't tell me, I suppose I may have to ask the manufacturer in Italy who I am sure isn't set up to respond to this type of question. Then hope that if I connect it correctly, the heater will suddenly spring to life.. If anyone knows where there may be a wiring diagram for this unit under any of the plethora of names which are used, I would appreciate it as I am reasonably sure there isn't much wrong with the sensor or the element! It's common for manufacturers to tape a folded up wiring diagrahm and schematic inside appliances. This keeps the service guys from having to haul around hundreds of them. You have a combination washer, condensing dryer. It does not add water to the clothes during the drying cycle but may use water to cool the condensing unit. They are not usually very good at drying but make up for it some by having a really high spin cycle at the end of the wash phase. And if you do not have a outside vent there's not much you can do I don't know your specific model but generally there are several temp sensors on the drying cycle as well as possibly a moisture sensor. The temp sensors may include ones to prevent it from going over a certain temp while running as well as a safety sensor that has a higher temp. Often the safety one is a one-shot, once it has been tripped it must be replaced. That's on the theory that some other failure caused it to be tripped and the appliance needs other work as well as a new safety temp sensor. Finding the schematic is going to be very helpful. Some google searches might help you as many manufacturers also make theoir schematics available online. These are also not super complicated so it is possible to trace the heating circuit out by hand. And a volt ohm meter would help a lot with this and with trouble shooting in general. As a general rule the temp sensors will be closed when cool if they are wired in series with the heating element. If they are connected to a main control board they may be open when cool and closed when hot. You can check these with a hair dryer. You can also check for continuity of the heating element. If you can get enough covers off to get to the heating element but still be able to run the unit you can also check for voltage at the heating element while it is running. No, I have had this thing apart numerous times and there is no wiring diagram in it. But the sensor idea is a good one as the one next to the replaceable one does look a bit burned (again, the plastic cover, not the spades themselves)

Well you might try the internet for a schematic or wiring diagram. Depending on price replacing suspect parts sometimes gets you going again. But any good repair person will say that the first step is understanding how it works so you can acurately troubleshoot each component.