I have a Sears electric dryer (110.86880100) that takes 2 70 minute
cycles to dry a load of clothes. The lint filter is clear; the
exhaust opening inside the drum is clear; there is no kink in the
exhaust tube; there is no obstruction at the end of the exhaust tube
outside the house.

So, i figured that the heating element was bad. I went to an
appliance repair parts store to buy a new heating element; however,
the "knowledgeable" guy at the counter told me that, if I was getting
any heat at all, the element was not bad. I asked if the element had
parallel heating elements (one might be bad and the other still
working) and he said that the element was one strip and he suggested
that the exhaust tube might be kinked.

I had previously checked and I have LOTS of airflow at the end of the
exhaust tube outside of the house.

Anybody got any suggestions??

TIA

Chuck

On Mar 24, 10:30*am, wrote:
I have a Sears electric dryer (110.86880100) that takes 2 70 minute
cycles to dry a load of clothes. *The lint filter is clear; the
exhaust opening inside the drum is clear; there is no kink in the
exhaust tube; there is no obstruction at the end of the exhaust tube
outside the house.

So, i figured that the heating element was bad. *I went to an
appliance repair parts store to buy a new heating element; however,
the "knowledgeable" guy at the counter told me that, if I was getting
any heat at all, the element was not bad. *I asked if the element had
parallel heating elements (one might be bad and the other still
working) and he said that the element was one strip and he suggested
that the exhaust tube might be kinked.

I had previously checked and I have LOTS of airflow at *the end of the
exhaust tube outside of the house.

Anybody got any suggestions??

TIA

Chuck

I had the same problem a couple of months ago. The clothes would be
hot but would not dry. I found out that water had gotten into the
exhaust tube from the outside when it rained and finally completely
plugged up the tube.

First, disconnect the tube from the dryer and turn the dryer on and
see if any air is coming out. It should be quite forceful. If a good
amount of air is coming out, your problem is in the tube, if no air is
coming out, the problem is in the dryer.

David

I had previously checked and I have LOTS of airflow at the end of the
exhaust tube outside of the house.

Anybody got any suggestions??

TIA

Chuck

I had the same problem a couple of months ago. The clothes would be
hot but would not dry. I found out that water had gotten into the
exhaust tube from the outside when it rained and finally completely
plugged up the tube.

First, disconnect the tube from the dryer and turn the dryer on and
see if any air is coming out. It should be quite forceful. If a good
amount of air is coming out, your problem is in the tube, if no air is
coming out, the problem is in the dryer.

David

exactly what part of " I have LOTS of airflow" do you not understand?

On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 09:42:02 -0600, nefletch wrote:


I had previously checked and I have LOTS of airflow at the end of the
exhaust tube outside of the house.

Anybody got any suggestions??

TIA

Chuck

I had the same problem a couple of months ago. The clothes would be
hot but would not dry. I found out that water had gotten into the
exhaust tube from the outside when it rained and finally completely
plugged up the tube.

First, disconnect the tube from the dryer and turn the dryer on and
see if any air is coming out. It should be quite forceful. If a good
amount of air is coming out, your problem is in the tube, if no air is
coming out, the problem is in the dryer.

David

exactly what part of " I have LOTS of airflow" do you not understand?

You can still have what you think is lots of airflow and have it
excessively constricted. How long is the outlet hose? How many turns
does it make.

He did say "previously", so more recently, it might be
blocked.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"nefletch" wrote in message
news

exactly what part of " I have LOTS of airflow" do you not
understand?

On Mar 24, 4:20�pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
He did say "previously", so more recently, it might be
blocked.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
�www.lds.org
.

"nefletch" wrote in message

news
exactly what part of " I have LOTS of airflow" do you not
understand?

my exhaust line had a low spot, found it when i picked it up after
disconnecting shower i got a bath of water.

the low spot must have been created by my replacing a washing machine
hose.

sure dries good since i fixed it

On Mar 24, 11:42*am, "nefletch" wrote:
I had previously checked and I have LOTS of airflow at the end of the
exhaust tube outside of the house.

Anybody got any suggestions??

TIA

Chuck

I had the same problem a couple of months ago. The clothes would be
hot but would not dry. I found out that water had gotten into the
exhaust tube from the outside when it rained and finally completely
plugged up the tube.

First, disconnect the tube from the dryer and turn the dryer on and
see if any air is coming out. It should be quite forceful. If a good
amount of air is coming out, your problem is in the tube, if no air is
coming out, the problem is in the dryer.

David

exactly what part of " I have LOTS of airflow" do you not understand?

Sheesh, what's your frickin' problem?

In article , wrote:
I have a Sears electric dryer (110.86880100) that takes 2 70 minute
cycles to dry a load of clothes. The lint filter is clear; the
exhaust opening inside the drum is clear; there is no kink in the
exhaust tube; there is no obstruction at the end of the exhaust tube
outside the house.

So, i figured that the heating element was bad. I went to an
appliance repair parts store to buy a new heating element;

You went to buy a new element without checking the old one first??

however,
the "knowledgeable" guy at the counter told me that, if I was getting
any heat at all, the element was not bad.

You need to find a more knowledgeable parts guy.

I asked if the element had
parallel heating elements (one might be bad and the other still
working) and he said that the element was one strip

According to the illustrations at SearsPartsDirect.com, this heating element
has three coils that are physically parallel but electrically in series (wired
end-to-end). If one of the coils has broken in the middle and flopped over
onto an adjacent coil, you'd still get heat, but not as much.

I had previously checked and I have LOTS of airflow at the end of the
exhaust tube outside of the house.

Anybody got any suggestions??

Other than the obvious ones -- pull the heating element, inspect it visually,
measure its resistance with a multimeter and compare to spec -- you should
also check your washing machine. Could be somebody left it on the "delicate"
setting, which uses the low-speed spin cycle, and your clothes take longer to
dry because they're starting out wetter.

On Mar 24, 1:06*pm, (Doug Miller) wrote:
In article , wrote:

I have a Sears electric dryer (110.86880100) that takes 2 70 minute
cycles to dry a load of clothes. *The lint filter is clear; the
exhaust opening inside the drum is clear; there is no kink in the
exhaust tube; there is no obstruction at the end of the exhaust tube
outside the house.

So, i figured that the heating element was bad. *I went to an
appliance repair parts store to buy a new heating element;

You went to buy a new element without checking the old one first??

however,
the "knowledgeable" guy at the counter told me that, if I was getting
any heat at all, the element was not bad.

You need to find a more knowledgeable parts guy.

I asked if the element had
parallel heating elements (one might be bad and the other still
working) and he said that the element was one strip

According to the illustrations at SearsPartsDirect.com, this heating element
has three coils that are physically parallel but electrically in series (wired
end-to-end). If one of the coils has broken in the middle and flopped over
onto an adjacent coil, you'd still get heat, but not as much.



I had previously checked and I have LOTS of airflow at *the end of the
exhaust tube outside of the house.

Anybody got any suggestions??

Other than the obvious ones -- pull the heating element, inspect it visually,
measure its resistance with a multimeter and compare to spec -- you should
also check your washing machine. Could be somebody left it on the "delicate"
setting, which uses the low-speed spin cycle, and your clothes take longer to
dry because they're starting out wetter.

Yes there are many parts in the electrical circuit which could cause a
dryer not dry properly!
My neighbour has a dryer which has two heating coils. Low heat and
high heat etc.
When he complained it was taking a long time to dry we took it apart
and found that one of the heating coils had a break in it. We were
able to repair, in that instance, the break; usually you have to
install a new heating element.
Anyway that was at least three years ago; probably longer and the
dryer is working fine.
Other causes could be a defective thermostat, a trick/faulty
humidistat if dryer so equipped, possibly bad contacts on the timer
switch? It may come down to 'trouble shooting' the machine. Probably
take less than an hour by someone who knows what they are doing, has
the right tools and possibly a test-meter (although not essential for
someone who is knowledgeable).
PS. Don't believe all counter men or jump to conclusions that it IS
one part or another.

On Mar 24, 10:30*am, wrote:
I have a Sears electric dryer (110.86880100) that takes 2 70 minute
cycles to dry a load of clothes. *The lint filter is clear; the
exhaust opening inside the drum is clear; there is no kink in the
exhaust tube; there is no obstruction at the end of the exhaust tube
outside the house.

So, i figured that the heating element was bad. *I went to an
appliance repair parts store to buy a new heating element; however,
the "knowledgeable" guy at the counter told me that, if I was getting
any heat at all, the element was not bad. *I asked if the element had
parallel heating elements (one might be bad and the other still
working) and he said that the element was one strip and he suggested
that the exhaust tube might be kinked.

I had previously checked and I have LOTS of airflow at *the end of the
exhaust tube outside of the house.

Anybody got any suggestions??

TIA

Chuck

I hate to ask the obvious, but how damp are the clothes coming out of
your washer? Could it be your washer isn't wringing the clothes out
sufficiently during the spin cycle, that your dryer now needs to work
harder to dry them?

wrote in message
...
I have a Sears electric dryer (110.86880100) that takes 2 70 minute
cycles to dry a load of clothes. The lint filter is clear; the
exhaust opening inside the drum is clear; there is no kink in the
exhaust tube; there is no obstruction at the end of the exhaust tube
outside the house.

So, i figured that the heating element was bad. I went to an
appliance repair parts store to buy a new heating element; however,
the "knowledgeable" guy at the counter told me that, if I was getting
any heat at all, the element was not bad. I asked if the element had
parallel heating elements (one might be bad and the other still
working) and he said that the element was one strip and he suggested
that the exhaust tube might be kinked.

I had previously checked and I have LOTS of airflow at the end of the
exhaust tube outside of the house.

Anybody got any suggestions??

TIA

Chuck

Some older models had 2 elements. How many terminals are on the element
case. Also easy to open case and look at the element. WW

Does this problem happen only on 1 particular cycle on the timer?
( Auto Perm Press, Auto Cotton, or Timed?)
The same thing happened to me only during the Auto cycles, but it
worked fine on the Timed cycle. It turns out when I took my timer
apart, I noticed the contacts for the heating element were not making
good contact in the "Auto"modes, but in the "Timed" mode, the heating
contacts are internally connected and stay on all the time. Try it in
"Timed" mode for about an hour. If it works, then the problem is with
the timer

my line with a low spot had LOTS OF AIRFLOW TOO.

but still didnt dry.

On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 07:30:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote:


Anybody got any suggestions??

I think no one has suggested that the drum isn't rotating, or not
conceivably not rotating enough. Needs the belt tightened or replaced.

My mother and I replaced a belt on a Whirlpool when I was about 14 and
the dryer was about 5 years old. It lasted another 15 after that and
was still working fine when she moved to an apartment building that
had dryers and no rooom for hers.

TIA

Chuck

I would suggest thee possibilities, in likely order.

* heating element not fully functional: This could be due to power
supply issues (one half of the 240V supply not functioning resulting
in 120V) or a damaged element, reducing the heat to half, or a high
resistance connection to one or more heater elements.

* Poor venting. Could be lint build up, crimped duct or as noted,
water in the duct at a low point.

* Control problems with the dryer control keeping the temperature as
in delicate cycle.

Good Luck

On Mar 25, 8:37*am, wrote:
* *I would suggest thee possibilities, in likely order.

** heating element not fully functional: This could be due to power
supply issues (one half of the 240V supply not functioning resulting
in 120V) or a damaged element, reducing the heat to half, or a high
resistance connection to one or more heater elements.

* Poor venting. *Could be lint build up, crimped duct or as noted,
water in the duct at a low point.

* Control problems with the dryer control keeping the temperature as
in delicate cycle.

Good Luck

I hsd s broken heating element. The ends would touch intermittently
and heat up then shut down. Even when I pulled the heater out and
checked it with an ohmmeter the problem didnt show. I had the thing in
and out 2 or 3 times before it opened and stayed open so I could find
the problem.

BTW, it was only a month out of warranty.


Jimmie

On Tue, 24 Mar 2009 07:30:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

I have a Sears electric dryer (110.86880100) that takes 2 70 minute
cycles to dry a load of clothes. The lint filter is clear; the
exhaust opening inside the drum is clear; there is no kink in the
exhaust tube; there is no obstruction at the end of the exhaust tube
outside the house.

So, i figured that the heating element was bad. I went to an
appliance repair parts store to buy a new heating element; however,
the "knowledgeable" guy at the counter told me that, if I was getting
any heat at all, the element was not bad. I asked if the element had
parallel heating elements (one might be bad and the other still
working) and he said that the element was one strip and he suggested
that the exhaust tube might be kinked.

I had previously checked and I have LOTS of airflow at the end of the
exhaust tube outside of the house.

Anybody got any suggestions??

TIA

Chuck


Aside from jeans, my very old (gas) dryer dries a large load in about
35 minutes.

Washer not spinning properly? Can you wring clothes with water
dripping?

Is the dryer drum turning?

Are the clothes very warm after 10 minutes of high-setting drying
time? This can be related to thermostat, a burned out element,
corroded switch, etc.

OK, you said there is lots of airflow. Were the pipes cleaned out in
the past 6 months? A good cleaning can't hurt.