My electric GE dryer doesn't seem to be using heat. It is around 17
years old as is the washer. What should I look for when I open up the
back?

First, check that you have 240 volts on the terminals of the machine. If you
do, any number of possibilities exist,including a bad element. At 17 years,
you may want to put repair $$ toward a new machine



"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
My electric GE dryer doesn't seem to be using heat. It is around 17
years old as is the washer. What should I look for when I open up the
back?

On Feb 9, 9:05 am, "badgolferman"
wrote:
My electric GE dryer doesn't seem to be using heat. It is around 17
years old as is the washer. What should I look for when I open up the
back?

You might look for the cash you hid back there cause you need a new
machine after that many years.

"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
My electric GE dryer doesn't seem to be using heat. It is around 17
years old as is the washer. What should I look for when I open up the
back?

Probably a bad heater element or thermoswitch. Or it could just be dirty.
Try taking it outside and blowing all the air passages out with
compressed air or a leaf blower.

Bob

there's nothing to a dryer. So no real reason to replace it (at a cost of
$300 - $1000) just because it needs a $79 element. As mentioned before,
make sure you have proper electric service to the machine. Then unplug it
and start taking it apart from the back. You'll find there's about a half a
dozen parts that make up the entire machine, and you'll probably find the
element burned out. COULD be a thermostat switch, but they are easy to
check with an ohm meter.

--
Steve Barker



"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
My electric GE dryer doesn't seem to be using heat. It is around 17
years old as is the washer. What should I look for when I open up the
back?

Probably the elements, but first check that you have 240 volts to them.
Obviously if you do, and they are not heating, they are bad. I doubt new
elements are terribly expensive, and replacing them can be a DIY
project. Dunno about your machine, but I worked on a GE dryer that was a
lot older than yours. The elements were behind the drum so the drum had
to be pulled out to get to them. This particular one was a major PITA
because the w&d were in a little storeroom with NO room to work,(I swear
i looked like the room was built around the machines), and it was during
the middle of summer in S.Tx. If your machine is in a place where there
is ample room to work, it shouldn't be that hard. I don't think there is
anything really tricky about the job. Go for it--worse case, you screw
it up and have to buy a new one anyway. Larry

Steve Barker, 2/9/2007,10:35:23 AM, wrote:

there's nothing to a dryer. So no real reason to replace it (at a
cost of $300 - $1000) just because it needs a $79 element. As
mentioned before, make sure you have proper electric service to the
machine. Then unplug it and start taking it apart from the back.
You'll find there's about a half a dozen parts that make up the
entire machine, and you'll probably find the element burned out.
COULD be a thermostat switch, but they are easy to check with an ohm
meter.

There are three single post connections on the back of the drum with
only one wire going to them. When not running they each have 15 VAC on
them and when running they each have 120 VAC. With the wires off they
all have some resistance between each other but not the same ohm value.
If the element was bad wouldn't there be an open between those three
connections?

There are also two other sensor type items with two wires each. One is
black and has numbers on it. It has a short between the posts with the
wires off. The other also has a short between the posts with the wires
off.

On the three posts , if you connect a volt meter across the two outer posts,
do you get 240 volts?



"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
Steve Barker, 2/9/2007,10:35:23 AM, wrote:

there's nothing to a dryer. So no real reason to replace it (at a
cost of $300 - $1000) just because it needs a $79 element. As
mentioned before, make sure you have proper electric service to the
machine. Then unplug it and start taking it apart from the back.
You'll find there's about a half a dozen parts that make up the
entire machine, and you'll probably find the element burned out.
COULD be a thermostat switch, but they are easy to check with an ohm
meter.

There are three single post connections on the back of the drum with
only one wire going to them. When not running they each have 15 VAC on
them and when running they each have 120 VAC. With the wires off they
all have some resistance between each other but not the same ohm value.
If the element was bad wouldn't there be an open between those three
connections?

There are also two other sensor type items with two wires each. One is
black and has numbers on it. It has a short between the posts with the
wires off. The other also has a short between the posts with the wires
off.

badgolferman wrote:
My electric GE dryer doesn't seem to be using heat. It is around 17
years old as is the washer. What should I look for when I open up the
back?

It's set on "Air" instead of "Heat?"

On Feb 9, 8:05 am, "badgolferman"
wrote:
My electric GE dryer doesn't seem to be using heat. It is around 17
years old as is the washer. What should I look for when I open up the
back?

Two of the dryers I have repaired have the same problem. The dryer
runs but no heat. It turned out one phase of the 220v to the dryer has
broken. The connector was corroded. So go buy a part ~ $1 and
reconnect the phase.
Kent

On Feb 9, 10:05 am, "badgolferman"
wrote:
My electric GE dryer doesn't seem to be using heat. It is around 17
years old as is the washer. What should I look for when I open up the
back?

First, make sure the vent isn't clogged with lint. A clogged vent will
still allow the dryer run, but it won't heat up.

On Feb 9, 11:19 am, wrote:
On Fri, 9 Feb 2007 09:35:23 -0600, "Steve Barker"
wrote:

there's nothing to a dryer. So no real reason to replace it (at a cost of
$300 - $1000) just because it needs a $79 element. As mentioned before,
make sure you have proper electric service to the machine. Then unplug it
and start taking it apart from the back.

Except some machines come apart from the front...

....

Specifically, for GE, there are two clips at front to raise the top,
then the front comes off w/ two screws at the top so can pull the drum
to get access to the heating elements, etc...

RBM, 2/9/2007,11:43:59 AM, wrote:

On the three posts , if you connect a volt meter across the two outer
posts, do you get 240 volts?

No, there is not. But there is 120 VAC to chassis ground from each
post when running and 15 VAC when not. What does that tell you?

badgolferman, 2/9/2007,2:27:16 PM, wrote:

RBM, 2/9/2007,11:43:59 AM, wrote:

On the three posts , if you connect a volt meter across the two
outer posts, do you get 240 volts?

No, there is not. But there is 120 VAC to chassis ground from each
post when running and 15 VAC when not. What does that tell you?

Also the heat type selector switch toggles between 0 ohms, 33 ohms, and
infinity.

On Fri, 9 Feb 2007 10:05:03 -0500, "badgolferman"
wrote:

My electric GE dryer doesn't seem to be using heat. It is around 17
years old as is the washer. What should I look for when I open up the
back?

I had that trouble with a new dryer, and so called the store. They
told me to check the electric supply. Check for 240V between the hot
wires as well as 120V between either and neutral. Also, check that the
exhaust isn't blocked.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Unlike biological evolution. 'intelligent design' is
not a genuine scientific theory and, therefore, has
no place in the curriculum of our nation's public
school classes." -- Ted Kennedy

On Fri, 9 Feb 2007 09:35:23 -0600, "Steve Barker"
wrote:

there's nothing to a dryer. So no real reason to replace it (at a cost of
$300 - $1000) just because it needs a $79 element. As mentioned before,
make sure you have proper electric service to the machine. Then unplug it
and start taking it apart from the back. You'll find there's about a half a
dozen parts that make up the entire machine, and you'll probably find the
element burned out. COULD be a thermostat switch, but they are easy to
check with an ohm meter.

The problem with mine turned out to be a bad switch, which was built
in to the motor (which was running).
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Unlike biological evolution. 'intelligent design' is
not a genuine scientific theory and, therefore, has
no place in the curriculum of our nation's public
school classes." -- Ted Kennedy

badgolferman, 2/9/2007,2:32:57 PM, wrote:

badgolferman, 2/9/2007,2:27:16 PM, wrote:

RBM, 2/9/2007,11:43:59 AM, wrote:

On the three posts , if you connect a volt meter across the two
outer posts, do you get 240 volts?

No, there is not. But there is 120 VAC to chassis ground from each
post when running and 15 VAC when not. What does that tell you?

Also the heat type selector switch toggles between 0 ohms, 33 ohms,
and infinity.

I messed around with all the wires on the switch panel. I took them
off and put them back on again. The dryer HAS started to work again.
I will keep my fingers crossed and hope it was just corroded contacts.
Thanks for the help you all gave.

On Fri, 9 Feb 2007 11:43:59 -0500, "RBM" rbm2(remove
wrote:

On the three posts , if you connect a volt meter across the two outer posts,
do you get 240 volts?



"badgolferman" wrote in message
.. .
Steve Barker, 2/9/2007,10:35:23 AM, wrote:

there's nothing to a dryer. So no real reason to replace it (at a
cost of $300 - $1000) just because it needs a $79 element. As
mentioned before, make sure you have proper electric service to the
machine. Then unplug it and start taking it apart from the back.
You'll find there's about a half a dozen parts that make up the
entire machine, and you'll probably find the element burned out.
COULD be a thermostat switch, but they are easy to check with an ohm
meter.

There are three single post connections on the back of the drum with
only one wire going to them. When not running they each have 15 VAC on
them and when running they each have 120 VAC. With the wires off they
all have some resistance between each other but not the same ohm value.
If the element was bad wouldn't there be an open between those three
connections?

I'm assuming for the moment that it is an electricla problem. There
woudl be an open if the element was bad, unless there is another way
to get from A to B. Sometimes there are multiple paths to the same
place. Is there a wiring diagram on the inside of the cover you took
off, or anywhere?

When you don't know if there is an alternate electric path, the best
thing is to disconnect one of the two wires from its post, and measure
the wire only to the other post. You can also measure from the post
only (with the wire disconnected) to the other post to confirm that
there is an alternate path. The total resistance of two resistors in
parallel is found with the formula 1/a + 1/b = 1/total . If, for
example, b is infinite, the 1/a = 1/total .

But maybe all the elements are good and it's some other problem.

Before to measure voltage before measureing resistance at the same
place. Don't want to burn out the meter, or yourself.

Keep close track of whether the dryer is plugged in or not.

There are also two other sensor type items with two wires each. One is
black and has numbers on it. It has a short between the posts with the
wires off. The other also has a short between the posts with the wires
off.

That wiring diagram would give an idea what they are. One might be
temp sensor, that opens if it gets too hot, or a dampness sensor if
you have that feature on your dryer.


BTW, my washer and dryer are 27 years old and working fine. I only
do laundry for myself, but still, when they are 37 years old that will
be like 18 years for two people.

On Fri, 9 Feb 2007 14:58:32 -0500, "badgolferman"
wrote:

badgolferman, 2/9/2007,2:32:57 PM, wrote:

badgolferman, 2/9/2007,2:27:16 PM, wrote:

RBM, 2/9/2007,11:43:59 AM, wrote:

On the three posts , if you connect a volt meter across the two
outer posts, do you get 240 volts?

No, there is not. But there is 120 VAC to chassis ground from each
post when running and 15 VAC when not. What does that tell you?

Also the heat type selector switch toggles between 0 ohms, 33 ohms,
and infinity.

I messed around with all the wires on the switch panel. I took them
off and put them back on again. The dryer HAS started to work again.

For the first 10 or 20 years of my repair "career", starting about age
8, that's mostly what I did. Take something apart and put it back
together and it works. I never knew why in most cases.

I will keep my fingers crossed and hope it was just corroded contacts.
Thanks for the help you all gave.

It tells me that the dryer is not the problem, its an open circuit to one of
the hot legs, either in the wiring to the dryer or at the circuit breaker




"badgolferman" wrote in message
...
RBM, 2/9/2007,11:43:59 AM, wrote:

On the three posts , if you connect a volt meter across the two outer
posts, do you get 240 volts?

No, there is not. But there is 120 VAC to chassis ground from each
post when running and 15 VAC when not. What does that tell you?

badgolferman wrote:
My electric GE dryer doesn't seem to be using heat. It is around 17
years old as is the washer. What should I look for when I open up the
back?

In addition to the fact that it is likely a cheap and easy fix, a DIY
for many people, you may find that it works much better than it has for
years. You may have been running on half power 120V for some time.


--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

don't you hate that? I know I do.

--
Steve Barker

"mm" wrote in message
...
Take something apart and put it back
together and it works. I never knew why in most cases.

Usually not for the element and all that.

--
Steve Barker



wrote in message
...
Except some machines come apart from the front...

lp13-30 wrote:
Probably the elements, but first check that you have 240 volts to them.
Obviously if you do, and they are not heating, they are bad. I doubt new
elements are terribly expensive, and replacing them can be a DIY
project. Dunno about your machine, but I worked on a GE dryer that was a
lot older than yours. The elements were behind the drum so the drum had
to be pulled out to get to them. This particular one was a major PITA
because the w&d were in a little storeroom with NO room to work,(I swear
i looked like the room was built around the machines), and it was during
the middle of summer in S.Tx. If your machine is in a place where there
is ample room to work, it shouldn't be that hard. I don't think there is
anything really tricky about the job. Go for it--worse case, you screw
it up and have to buy a new one anyway. Larry

Yeah, the element is usually in the rear. I've changed one on a Speed
Queen Commercial Dryer that I bought used. That dryer lasted about 37
years before the steel drum split apart. I called about a new drum, and
gave them the model number, and they asked for the "rest of the model
number" and when I told them that was it they were quite amused.
Interestingly, most of the parts were still available, and often the
same as the current production.

It's not a hard job to change it, but you have to get back there. 17
years old is not that old for a dryer.

mm wrote:

For the first 10 or 20 years of my repair "career", starting about age
8, that's mostly what I did. Take something apart and put it back
together and it works. I never knew why in most cases.

The good thing is that everyone thinks you're a genius! I fixed my
father-in-law's TV by taking the back off and putting it back on. I
suspected a bad relay for the on-off switch, as I've seen this before,
but whatever was wrong it's been working for about five years now.