There's been a lot of talk of generators and how to store gasoline for
them which got me to thinking of the conversions I've done for customers
who wished to run them on NG or LP gas. I would buy the kits from the
small engine and parts supplier and the installation was pretty straight
forward. Today I came across a Generac unit that is LP
ready and has a built in carrier for a 20lb propane tank. It appears to
be a slick little system with none of the problems from stale gasoline
gumming up a genset that sits for too long. ^_^

http://www.generac.com/Portables/LP_...oducts/LP3250/

TDD

Now, that looks like a good idea. Anyone have an idea how much it costs? I
didn't find the MSRP on that page.

The list the questions, but not the answers.



Is this generator safe for sensitive equipment? i.e. laptop, or flat screen
tv?
1 answer

Where is the LP3250 generator manufactured?
1 answer

Power output?
1 answer

Need a parts break down document
1 answer

I like what is shown, Is a 8-10KW in the future?
1 answer

Can the LP model be converted to NG?
1 answer

Will this generator run a 11/2hp well pump w/450 ft of #10 wire drawing 13.6
amps?
1 answer

What is the [price of the LP3250 and where can I see one in the Venioce, Fl
area
1 answer

Can this generator safely power a UPS (uninterruptible power supply)used for
a computer?
1 answer

Cold weather
1 answer

Would be much easier if they listed the Q and A on the same page, instead of
having people mouse around and get one tidbit of information at at time.
Overall, that web page is not helpful.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...
There's been a lot of talk of generators and how to store gasoline for
them which got me to thinking of the conversions I've done for customers
who wished to run them on NG or LP gas. I would buy the kits from the
small engine and parts supplier and the installation was pretty straight
forward. Today I came across a Generac unit that is LP
ready and has a built in carrier for a 20lb propane tank. It appears to
be a slick little system with none of the problems from stale gasoline
gumming up a genset that sits for too long. ^_^

http://www.generac.com/Portables/LP_...oducts/LP3250/

TDD

On Sun, 30 Sep 2012 21:45:03 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Now, that looks like a good idea. Anyone have an idea how much it costs? I
didn't find the MSRP on that page.

The list the questions, but not the answers.

You have to do some clicking and the answer will be below. There is
some ambiguity though, about sensitive equipment. They say yes, then
they say the harmonic distortion is greater than 5%, so no.





Is this generator safe for sensitive equipment? i.e. laptop, or flat screen
tv?
1 answer

Yes. All Generac portable generators have a track record of safely
powering a variety of tools and appliances, including electronics.



Where is the LP3250 generator manufactured?
1 answer

The LP3250 is manufactured to our specifications by a partner
overseas.




Power output?
1 answer

Need a parts break down document
1 answer

I like what is shown, Is a 8-10KW in the future?
1 answer

Can the LP model be converted to NG?
1 answer

no




Can this generator safely power a UPS (uninterruptible power supply)used for
a computer?
1 answer

UPS systems typically require total harmonic distortion to be below 5%
- the total harmonic distortion for the LP Series portable units will
be above 5%. If you are looking for a unit with a cleaner power
output, we would recommend considering either our XP Series gasoline
powered units or our automatic home standby generators. However, you
should also check the requirements of the UPS system for any
additional specifications.

Cold weather
1 answer

Would be much easier if they listed the Q and A on the same page, instead of
having people mouse around and get one tidbit of information at at time.
Overall, that web page is not helpful.

Comes up on the same page for me after you click the question.

On 9/30/2012 8:45 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Now, that looks like a good idea. Anyone have an idea how much it costs? I
didn't find the MSRP on that page.

The list the questions, but not the answers.



Is this generator safe for sensitive equipment? i.e. laptop, or flat screen
tv?
1 answer

Where is the LP3250 generator manufactured?
1 answer

Power output?
1 answer

Need a parts break down document
1 answer

I like what is shown, Is a 8-10KW in the future?
1 answer

Can the LP model be converted to NG?
1 answer

Will this generator run a 11/2hp well pump w/450 ft of #10 wire drawing 13.6
amps?
1 answer

What is the [price of the LP3250 and where can I see one in the Venioce, Fl
area
1 answer

Can this generator safely power a UPS (uninterruptible power supply)used for
a computer?
1 answer

Cold weather
1 answer

Would be much easier if they listed the Q and A on the same page, instead of
having people mouse around and get one tidbit of information at at time.
Overall, that web page is not helpful.


Did you read the spec sheet which is a PDF file with a link at the
bottom left of the page? O_o

TDD

Too much like work. I like things simple.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

Would be much easier if they listed the Q and A on the same page, instead
of
having people mouse around and get one tidbit of information at at time.
Overall, that web page is not helpful.

Comes up on the same page for me after you click the question.

Didn't even see that.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

Did you read the spec sheet which is a PDF file with a link at the
bottom left of the page? O_o

TDD

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sun, 30 Sep 2012 21:45:03 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Now, that looks like a good idea. Anyone have an idea how much it costs? I
didn't find the MSRP on that page.

The list the questions, but not the answers.

You have to do some clicking and the answer will be below. There is
some ambiguity though, about sensitive equipment. They say yes, then
they say the harmonic distortion is greater than 5%, so no.

In reality, there isn't much built in the last decade or so that
actually qualifies as "sensitive equipment". Pretty much everything uses
switch-mode power supplies these days and they are wide input range and
not sensitive to a bit of distortion.

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...
There's been a lot of talk of generators and how to store gasoline for
them which got me to thinking of the conversions I've done for customers
who wished to run them on NG or LP gas. I would buy the kits from the
small engine and parts supplier and the installation was pretty straight
forward. Today I came across a Generac unit that is LP
ready and has a built in carrier for a 20lb propane tank. It appears to
be a slick little system with none of the problems from stale gasoline
gumming up a genset that sits for too long. ^_^

http://www.generac.com/Portables/LP_...oducts/LP3250/

TDD

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a separate
conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG, LP or gasoline
More flexibility for the same price.

"Atila Iskander" wrote in
:


"The Daring Dufas" wrote in
message ...
There's been a lot of talk of generators and how to store gasoline
for them which got me to thinking of the conversions I've done for
customers who wished to run them on NG or LP gas. I would buy the
kits from the small engine and parts supplier and the installation
was pretty straight forward. Today I came across a Generac unit that
is LP ready and has a built in carrier for a 20lb propane tank. It
appears to be a slick little system with none of the problems from
stale gasoline gumming up a genset that sits for too long. ^_^

http://www.generac.com/Portables/LP_...oducts/LP3250/

TDD

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a
separate conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG, LP or
gasoline
More flexibility for the same price.

I am looking for a generator like that. Do you have any specific
suggestions? Please?

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 10/1/2012 3:55 PM, Han wrote:
"Atila Iskander" wrote in
:


"The Daring Dufas" wrote in
message ...
There's been a lot of talk of generators and how to store gasoline
for them which got me to thinking of the conversions I've done for
customers who wished to run them on NG or LP gas. I would buy the
kits from the small engine and parts supplier and the installation
was pretty straight forward. Today I came across a Generac unit that
is LP ready and has a built in carrier for a 20lb propane tank. It
appears to be a slick little system with none of the problems from
stale gasoline gumming up a genset that sits for too long. ^_^

http://www.generac.com/Portables/LP_...oducts/LP3250/

TDD

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a
separate conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG, LP or
gasoline
More flexibility for the same price.

I am looking for a generator like that. Do you have any specific
suggestions? Please?


What power output are you looking for? Or, what do you wish to run at
the same time? ^_^

TDD

"Pete C." wrote in message
.com...

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sun, 30 Sep 2012 21:45:03 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Now, that looks like a good idea. Anyone have an idea how much it costs?
I
didn't find the MSRP on that page.

The list the questions, but not the answers.

You have to do some clicking and the answer will be below. There is
some ambiguity though, about sensitive equipment. They say yes, then
they say the harmonic distortion is greater than 5%, so no.

In reality, there isn't much built in the last decade or so that
actually qualifies as "sensitive equipment". Pretty much everything uses
switch-mode power supplies these days and they are wide input range and
not sensitive to a bit of distortion.

Inneresting observation.
I bought a BlackMax jobby from Sam's, 8750 W, and I had to ridiculously load
it, with ridiculous starting draws, to get electronics to fail (PC's, Fadal,
etc).
You know how gasoline welders baaaarumph when the arc is struck? That's
what this sounding like, and the electronics were STILL ok!! I was amazed.

The only thing that really gave it a hard time was starting a 5 hp rpc.
Other than that, it handled my compressor surprisingly well, altho if I were
running the fadal + compressor, those are the *only* two things I'd want on
it. There are limits....

But, now someone else can be amazed, bec some cocksucker stole it....
goodgawd....
--
EA

"Pete C." wrote in message
.com...

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sun, 30 Sep 2012 21:45:03 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Now, that looks like a good idea. Anyone have an idea how much it costs?
I
didn't find the MSRP on that page.

The list the questions, but not the answers.

You have to do some clicking and the answer will be below. There is
some ambiguity though, about sensitive equipment. They say yes, then
they say the harmonic distortion is greater than 5%, so no.

In reality, there isn't much built in the last decade or so that
actually qualifies as "sensitive equipment". Pretty much everything uses
switch-mode power supplies these days and they are wide input range and
not sensitive to a bit of distortion.

Inneresting observation.
I bought a BlackMax jobby from Sam's, 8750 W, and I had to ridiculously load
it, with ridiculous starting draws, to get electronics to fail (PC's, Fadal,
etc).
You know how gasoline welders baaaarumph when the arc is struck? That's
what this sounding like, and the electronics were STILL ok!! I was amazed.

The only thing that really gave it a hard time was starting a 5 hp rpc.
Other than that, it handled my compressor surprisingly well, altho if I were
running the fadal + compressor, those are the *only* two things I'd want on
it. There are limits....

But, now someone else can be amazed, bec some cocksucker stole it....
goodgawd....
--
EA

Atila Iskander wrote:

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a
separate conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG, LP or
gasoline More flexibility for the same price.

What is the recommended pipe diameter to feed a generator using natural gas?
I suspect 1/4" would be too small, but would 1" be overkill?

I found a NG space heater at an auction ($10) and that's providing the
incentive to re-plumb a gas line to supply the master bedroom. While I'm at
that task, it would be straightforward to extend the new gas line around the
house corner to the vicinity of the electrical distribution system where I
plug in my generator.

On 10/2/2012 8:10 AM, HeyBub wrote:
Atila Iskander wrote:

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a
separate conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG, LP or
gasoline More flexibility for the same price.

What is the recommended pipe diameter to feed a generator using natural gas?
I suspect 1/4" would be too small, but would 1" be overkill?

I found a NG space heater at an auction ($10) and that's providing the
incentive to re-plumb a gas line to supply the master bedroom. While I'm at
that task, it would be straightforward to extend the new gas line around the
house corner to the vicinity of the electrical distribution system where I
plug in my generator.



Most residential gas meters have a regulator mounted with them that is
set for 6-8" WC "water column" which is about 1/2 psi. This requires a
3/4" line for most stoves, furnaces and water heaters. When I was
installing a lot of generators in homes and businesses, I would get the
gas company to install a 2psi gas meter so I could get enough gas
pressure and volume to run the generators. The Generac units I was
installing needed 11" WC to operate properly and because of the higher
supply pressure, I could run a 1/2" line to get the volume of fuel
needed. My friend and I when installing gas lines in new construction
or remodels would get a 2psi gas meter so we could run 3/8" copper lines
to all appliances instead of 3/4" but a regulator was needed at each
unit to regulate the pressure down to 6-8" WC for proper operation. I
installed a wall mounted NG heater here at the crotchety old fart's lair
last year and I ran a 1/2" copper line as required, it works great and
puts out a great deal of heat. You may be able to use a 3/4" line
to supply enough fuel for your genset as many of them will operate with
the the 6-8" WC NG supply. ^_^

TDD

The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

On 10/1/2012 3:55 PM, Han wrote:
"Atila Iskander" wrote in
:


"The Daring Dufas" wrote in
message ...
There's been a lot of talk of generators and how to store gasoline
for them which got me to thinking of the conversions I've done for
customers who wished to run them on NG or LP gas. I would buy the
kits from the small engine and parts supplier and the installation
was pretty straight forward. Today I came across a Generac unit that
is LP ready and has a built in carrier for a 20lb propane tank. It
appears to be a slick little system with none of the problems from
stale gasoline gumming up a genset that sits for too long. ^_^

http://www.generac.com/Portables/LP_...oducts/LP3250/

TDD

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a
separate conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG, LP or
gasoline
More flexibility for the same price.

I am looking for a generator like that. Do you have any specific
suggestions? Please?


What power output are you looking for? Or, what do you wish to run at
the same time? ^_^

Furnace, microwave, fridge, laptops. I guess the fridge is the largest
thing, a 10 year-old GE, the tag says it draws 6.5Amp.

Thanks!!
--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 10/2/2012 1:34 PM, Han wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

On 10/1/2012 3:55 PM, Han wrote:
"Atila Iskander" wrote in
:


"The Daring Dufas" wrote in
message ...
There's been a lot of talk of generators and how to store gasoline
for them which got me to thinking of the conversions I've done for
customers who wished to run them on NG or LP gas. I would buy the
kits from the small engine and parts supplier and the installation
was pretty straight forward. Today I came across a Generac unit that
is LP ready and has a built in carrier for a 20lb propane tank. It
appears to be a slick little system with none of the problems from
stale gasoline gumming up a genset that sits for too long. ^_^

http://www.generac.com/Portables/LP_...oducts/LP3250/

TDD

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a
separate conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG, LP or
gasoline
More flexibility for the same price.

I am looking for a generator like that. Do you have any specific
suggestions? Please?


What power output are you looking for? Or, what do you wish to run at
the same time? ^_^

Furnace, microwave, fridge, laptops. I guess the fridge is the largest
thing, a 10 year-old GE, the tag says it draws 6.5Amp.

Thanks!!


Han, depending on the wattage, the microwave may draw more current. The
furnace will have a label showing what the blower motor pulls. For a 1/2
HP 115 volt blower motor, the current draw could be 6.5 to 8.5 amps.
It's best to check it out before getting a generator that's too small. ^_^

TDD

The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 10/2/2012 8:10 AM, HeyBub wrote:
Atila Iskander wrote:

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a
separate conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG, LP or
gasoline More flexibility for the same price.

What is the recommended pipe diameter to feed a generator using
natural gas? I suspect 1/4" would be too small, but would 1" be
overkill? I found a NG space heater at an auction ($10) and that's
providing
the incentive to re-plumb a gas line to supply the master bedroom.
While I'm at that task, it would be straightforward to extend the
new gas line around the house corner to the vicinity of the
electrical distribution system where I plug in my generator.



Most residential gas meters have a regulator mounted with them that is
set for 6-8" WC "water column" which is about 1/2 psi. This requires a
3/4" line for most stoves, furnaces and water heaters. When I was
installing a lot of generators in homes and businesses, I would get
the gas company to install a 2psi gas meter so I could get enough gas
pressure and volume to run the generators. The Generac units I was
installing needed 11" WC to operate properly and because of the higher
supply pressure, I could run a 1/2" line to get the volume of fuel
needed. My friend and I when installing gas lines in new construction
or remodels would get a 2psi gas meter so we could run 3/8" copper
lines to all appliances instead of 3/4" but a regulator was needed at
each unit to regulate the pressure down to 6-8" WC for proper
operation. I installed a wall mounted NG heater here at the crotchety
old fart's lair last year and I ran a 1/2" copper line as required,
it works great and puts out a great deal of heat. You may be able to
use a 3/4" line to supply enough fuel for your genset as many of them will
operate
with the the 6-8" WC NG supply. ^_^


Thanks.

I'll try 3/4" for my modest 6000kw generator. If that doesn't work, I'll try
1". If I still have problems. I'll investigate up-amped regulators (or
forget the whole thing).

Also good idea, to do actual current draw, using ammeter.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

Furnace, microwave, fridge, laptops. I guess the fridge is the largest
thing, a 10 year-old GE, the tag says it draws 6.5Amp.

Thanks!!


Han, depending on the wattage, the microwave may draw more current. The
furnace will have a label showing what the blower motor pulls. For a 1/2
HP 115 volt blower motor, the current draw could be 6.5 to 8.5 amps.
It's best to check it out before getting a generator that's too small. ^_^

TDD

On 10/2/2012 2:33 PM, HeyBub wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:
On 10/2/2012 8:10 AM, HeyBub wrote:
Atila Iskander wrote:

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a
separate conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG, LP or
gasoline More flexibility for the same price.

What is the recommended pipe diameter to feed a generator using
natural gas? I suspect 1/4" would be too small, but would 1" be
overkill? I found a NG space heater at an auction ($10) and that's
providing
the incentive to re-plumb a gas line to supply the master bedroom.
While I'm at that task, it would be straightforward to extend the
new gas line around the house corner to the vicinity of the
electrical distribution system where I plug in my generator.



Most residential gas meters have a regulator mounted with them that is
set for 6-8" WC "water column" which is about 1/2 psi. This requires a
3/4" line for most stoves, furnaces and water heaters. When I was
installing a lot of generators in homes and businesses, I would get
the gas company to install a 2psi gas meter so I could get enough gas
pressure and volume to run the generators. The Generac units I was
installing needed 11" WC to operate properly and because of the higher
supply pressure, I could run a 1/2" line to get the volume of fuel
needed. My friend and I when installing gas lines in new construction
or remodels would get a 2psi gas meter so we could run 3/8" copper
lines to all appliances instead of 3/4" but a regulator was needed at
each unit to regulate the pressure down to 6-8" WC for proper
operation. I installed a wall mounted NG heater here at the crotchety
old fart's lair last year and I ran a 1/2" copper line as required,
it works great and puts out a great deal of heat. You may be able to
use a 3/4" line to supply enough fuel for your genset as many of them will
operate
with the the 6-8" WC NG supply. ^_^


Thanks.

I'll try 3/4" for my modest 6000kw generator. If that doesn't work, I'll try
1". If I still have problems. I'll investigate up-amped regulators (or
forget the whole thing).


I believe a contractor type portable generator I converted to NG for a
homeowner was a 6kw and it worked OK with a 1/2" line but your 6 million
watt generator would require a really big gas line. ^_^

TDD

The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

On 10/2/2012 1:34 PM, Han wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

On 10/1/2012 3:55 PM, Han wrote:
"Atila Iskander" wrote in
:


"The Daring Dufas" wrote in
message ...
There's been a lot of talk of generators and how to store
gasoline for them which got me to thinking of the conversions
I've done for customers who wished to run them on NG or LP gas. I
would buy the kits from the small engine and parts supplier and
the installation was pretty straight forward. Today I came across
a Generac unit that is LP ready and has a built in carrier for a
20lb propane tank. It appears to be a slick little system with
none of the problems from stale gasoline gumming up a genset that
sits for too long. ^_^

http://www.generac.com/Portables/LP_...oducts/LP3250/

TDD

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a
separate conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG, LP
or gasoline
More flexibility for the same price.

I am looking for a generator like that. Do you have any specific
suggestions? Please?


What power output are you looking for? Or, what do you wish to run
at the same time? ^_^

Furnace, microwave, fridge, laptops. I guess the fridge is the
largest thing, a 10 year-old GE, the tag says it draws 6.5Amp.

Thanks!!


Han, depending on the wattage, the microwave may draw more current.
The furnace will have a label showing what the blower motor pulls. For
a 1/2 HP 115 volt blower motor, the current draw could be 6.5 to 8.5
amps. It's best to check it out before getting a generator that's too
small. ^_^

TDD

Furnace is natural gas, hot water circulator drawing 0.76 Amp.
Thermostat etc shouldn't draw much, I think.

Microwave is 900 watt, but it is a convection oven as well GE model 1490

Your help is appreciated!

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

Also good idea, to do actual current draw, using ammeter.

Christopher A. Young
snip

Good idea, Christopher, but I don't have an ammeter. If I add up all the
watts and amps and multiply by 2, I think I should be covered, right? 30
amps then should cover it?

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 10/2/2012 4:23 PM, Han wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

On 10/2/2012 1:34 PM, Han wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

On 10/1/2012 3:55 PM, Han wrote:
"Atila Iskander" wrote in
:


"The Daring Dufas" wrote in
message ...
There's been a lot of talk of generators and how to store
gasoline for them which got me to thinking of the conversions
I've done for customers who wished to run them on NG or LP gas. I
would buy the kits from the small engine and parts supplier and
the installation was pretty straight forward. Today I came across
a Generac unit that is LP ready and has a built in carrier for a
20lb propane tank. It appears to be a slick little system with
none of the problems from stale gasoline gumming up a genset that
sits for too long. ^_^

http://www.generac.com/Portables/LP_...oducts/LP3250/

TDD

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a
separate conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG, LP
or gasoline
More flexibility for the same price.

I am looking for a generator like that. Do you have any specific
suggestions? Please?


What power output are you looking for? Or, what do you wish to run
at the same time? ^_^

Furnace, microwave, fridge, laptops. I guess the fridge is the
largest thing, a 10 year-old GE, the tag says it draws 6.5Amp.

Thanks!!


Han, depending on the wattage, the microwave may draw more current.
The furnace will have a label showing what the blower motor pulls. For
a 1/2 HP 115 volt blower motor, the current draw could be 6.5 to 8.5
amps. It's best to check it out before getting a generator that's too
small. ^_^

TDD

Furnace is natural gas, hot water circulator drawing 0.76 Amp.
Thermostat etc shouldn't draw much, I think.

Microwave is 900 watt, but it is a convection oven as well GE model 1490

Your help is appreciated!


Most of the Generac units I installed in homes some years ago were 8,000
watt natural gas powered automatic standby generators and it
was enough to power what you are referring to. Of course I installed
as large as 40kw for some customers but my favorite Generac was the
10kw 4cyl liquid cooled engine unit that ran at 1,800rpm which made
it very quiet and long lasting. ^_^

TDD

On 02 Oct 2012 21:26:15 GMT, Han wrote:

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

Also good idea, to do actual current draw, using ammeter.

Christopher A. Young
snip

Good idea, Christopher, but I don't have an ammeter. If I add up all the
watts and amps and multiply by 2, I think I should be covered, right? 30
amps then should cover it?

Invest in a Kill-a-Watt. They're quite handy to have around and well worth
the $20 or so. Generators aren't really rated in watts, rather volt-amps, so
you should measure the amps. Multiplying by two probably won't cover starting
current for big motors, so make sure you keep that in mind.

" wrote in
:

On 02 Oct 2012 21:26:15 GMT, Han wrote:

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

Also good idea, to do actual current draw, using ammeter.

Christopher A. Young
snip

Good idea, Christopher, but I don't have an ammeter. If I add up all
the watts and amps and multiply by 2, I think I should be covered,
right? 30 amps then should cover it?

Invest in a Kill-a-Watt. They're quite handy to have around and well
worth the $20 or so. Generators aren't really rated in watts, rather
volt-amps, so you should measure the amps. Multiplying by two
probably won't cover starting current for big motors, so make sure you
keep that in mind.

I've got a Kill-a-Watt, but haven't really used it. Time to start that.
It scares me that starting current for a fridge would be more than twice
nominal current. I have to look what kind of circuit breaker the fridge
is on. How long would the peak startup amps be required, since the
circuit breaker doesn't blow.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
Atila Iskander wrote:

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a
separate conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG, LP or
gasoline More flexibility for the same price.

What is the recommended pipe diameter to feed a generator using natural
gas? I suspect 1/4" would be too small, but would 1" be overkill?

I found a NG space heater at an auction ($10) and that's providing the
incentive to re-plumb a gas line to supply the master bedroom. While I'm
at that task, it would be straightforward to extend the new gas line
around the house corner to the vicinity of the electrical distribution
system where I plug in my generator.


My last installation was a kitchen stove
I used flex-pipe instead of black pipe
The cost difference between (the suggested) 3/4" and 1" was not worth
worrying about, so I ran 1" to the stove..
It will also completely eliminate any fear that you can't run your heater
and generator at the same time.

The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

On 10/2/2012 4:23 PM, Han wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

On 10/2/2012 1:34 PM, Han wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

On 10/1/2012 3:55 PM, Han wrote:
"Atila Iskander" wrote in
:


"The Daring Dufas" wrote in
message ...
There's been a lot of talk of generators and how to store
gasoline for them which got me to thinking of the conversions
I've done for customers who wished to run them on NG or LP gas.
I would buy the kits from the small engine and parts supplier
and the installation was pretty straight forward. Today I came
across a Generac unit that is LP ready and has a built in
carrier for a 20lb propane tank. It appears to be a slick
little system with none of the problems from stale gasoline
gumming up a genset that sits for too long. ^_^

http://www.generac.com/Portables/LP_...oducts/LP3250/

TDD

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a
separate conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG,
LP or gasoline
More flexibility for the same price.

I am looking for a generator like that. Do you have any specific
suggestions? Please?


What power output are you looking for? Or, what do you wish to run
at the same time? ^_^

Furnace, microwave, fridge, laptops. I guess the fridge is the
largest thing, a 10 year-old GE, the tag says it draws 6.5Amp.

Thanks!!


Han, depending on the wattage, the microwave may draw more current.
The furnace will have a label showing what the blower motor pulls.
For a 1/2 HP 115 volt blower motor, the current draw could be 6.5 to
8.5 amps. It's best to check it out before getting a generator
that's too small. ^_^

TDD

Furnace is natural gas, hot water circulator drawing 0.76 Amp.
Thermostat etc shouldn't draw much, I think.

Microwave is 900 watt, but it is a convection oven as well GE model
1490

Your help is appreciated!


Most of the Generac units I installed in homes some years ago were
8,000 watt natural gas powered automatic standby generators and it
was enough to power what you are referring to. Of course I installed
as large as 40kw for some customers but my favorite Generac was the
10kw 4cyl liquid cooled engine unit that ran at 1,800rpm which made
it very quiet and long lasting. ^_^

TDD

Well, I've lived here almost 14 years, and things have gotten worse. In
the last 2 years we've had 3 outages of around 48 hours each. We did
fine through those, but it wasn't too cold during those. Our hot water
heater is natural gas only, no electric power required. Stove top the
same. But we are over 65, and I am not looking forward to a bad storm
with real cold weather. Hence the questions.


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

On 10/2/2012 4:23 PM, Han wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

On 10/2/2012 1:34 PM, Han wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

On 10/1/2012 3:55 PM, Han wrote:
"Atila Iskander" wrote in
:


"The Daring Dufas" wrote in
message ...
There's been a lot of talk of generators and how to store
gasoline for them which got me to thinking of the conversions
I've done for customers who wished to run them on NG or LP gas.
I would buy the kits from the small engine and parts supplier
and the installation was pretty straight forward. Today I came
across a Generac unit that is LP ready and has a built in
carrier for a 20lb propane tank. It appears to be a slick
little system with none of the problems from stale gasoline
gumming up a genset that sits for too long. ^_^

http://www.generac.com/Portables/LP_...oducts/LP3250/

TDD

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a
separate conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG,
LP or gasoline
More flexibility for the same price.

I am looking for a generator like that. Do you have any specific
suggestions? Please?


What power output are you looking for? Or, what do you wish to run
at the same time? ^_^

Furnace, microwave, fridge, laptops. I guess the fridge is the
largest thing, a 10 year-old GE, the tag says it draws 6.5Amp.

Thanks!!


Han, depending on the wattage, the microwave may draw more current.
The furnace will have a label showing what the blower motor pulls.
For a 1/2 HP 115 volt blower motor, the current draw could be 6.5 to
8.5 amps. It's best to check it out before getting a generator
that's too small. ^_^

TDD

Furnace is natural gas, hot water circulator drawing 0.76 Amp.
Thermostat etc shouldn't draw much, I think.

Microwave is 900 watt, but it is a convection oven as well GE model
1490

Your help is appreciated!


Most of the Generac units I installed in homes some years ago were
8,000 watt natural gas powered automatic standby generators and it
was enough to power what you are referring to. Of course I installed
as large as 40kw for some customers but my favorite Generac was the
10kw 4cyl liquid cooled engine unit that ran at 1,800rpm which made
it very quiet and long lasting. ^_^

TDD

Oops, I forgot to say that automatic standby generators with the
installation costs involved are a bit too much luxury for us.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Han wrote:
" wrote in
:

On 02 Oct 2012 21:26:15 GMT, Han wrote:

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in
:

Also good idea, to do actual current draw, using ammeter.

Christopher A. Young
snip

Good idea, Christopher, but I don't have an ammeter. If I add up all
the watts and amps and multiply by 2, I think I should be covered,
right? 30 amps then should cover it?

Invest in a Kill-a-Watt. They're quite handy to have around and well
worth the $20 or so. Generators aren't really rated in watts, rather
volt-amps, so you should measure the amps. Multiplying by two
probably won't cover starting current for big motors, so make sure you
keep that in mind.

I've got a Kill-a-Watt, but haven't really used it. Time to start that.
It scares me that starting current for a fridge would be more than twice
nominal current. I have to look what kind of circuit breaker the fridge
is on. How long would the peak startup amps be required, since the
circuit breaker doesn't blow.

Likely be 3-6 times normal current. Normal current should be 1.5- 2.5 amps.
Defrost mode is what consumes higher steady current, and the compressor is
off.

Greg

"Existential Angst" wrote in message
news:506ae3e3$0$6047

But, now someone else can be amazed, bec some cocksucker stole it....
goodgawd....

Aincha got no 'larms or chains or 00 buckshot and D-con handy? (-:\

As they say on all the cops shows: "I'm sorry for your loss and hope the
SOB's electrocute themselves with it. We can always hope . . . "

I've always wondered how one would really wait out civil insurrection. My
wife had friends in the Guard when Andrew hit and they said things got
pretty "Mad Max" pretty fast. Generators always struck me as a variant of
the flashlight and gun in a dark room scenario often cited when discussing
radar, stealth, etc. If you turn on your flashlight (radar) so you can
"see" the other guy, he can see you too. More importantly the radar
(flashlight) operator might have to scan to find the target, but the reverse
is not true. When you turn your flashlight on, every guy in the dark knows
where to aim.

Same thing with a generator. Want to know where there's food, gas and a
generator? Just listen. I've been through a couple of hurricanes and it's
incredibly quiet when all the power's out and no one is driving around. You
can zero in on a generator from quite a ways. For those who believe they're
going to play "Josey Wales Holds Off the Indians" when civil unrest comes,
the death of our Libyan ambassador is a reminder of how easily a mob can use
fire as a potent weapon.

I've finally broken down and got a CCTV recorder (dirt cheap, under $100
with 4WP IR colorcams w/o HD) that can send me email alerts if video motion
is detected and then send pictures or live video of what the cameras see;
it even allows me to switch views remotely. Forget audio monitoring, forget
waiting on someone to respond.

With a little work I'll be notified anywhere in the world when someone comes
on the property and be able to talk in real time to someone who rings the
front door video intercom. I think that ability alone would deter most
burglars. The smart ones ring the bell for a long time to make sure you're
not home. Even if they do get in, the video can be used to ID them for
either prosecution or revenge.

If I value the recorder at $50, the weatherproof cameras cost $12.50 each.
I've got more expensive doorbells so I can afford to put them out. With a
solid state drive, the whole thing runs off an 80Ah marine or wheelchair
battery for at least 24 hours. That's important because when I've had
trouble before during a blackout during a storm. Apparently the little
thieving sockcuckers come out in the dark and the rain to do their dirty
work. Anyone remember Disney's "The Mooncussers?"

--
Bobby G.

"Robert Green" wrote in message
...
"Existential Angst" wrote in message
news:506ae3e3$0$6047

But, now someone else can be amazed, bec some cocksucker stole it....
goodgawd....

Aincha got no 'larms or chains or 00 buckshot and D-con handy? (-:\

As they say on all the cops shows: "I'm sorry for your loss and hope the
SOB's electrocute themselves with it. We can always hope . . . "

I've always wondered how one would really wait out civil insurrection. My
wife had friends in the Guard when Andrew hit and they said things got
pretty "Mad Max" pretty fast. Generators always struck me as a variant of
the flashlight and gun in a dark room scenario often cited when discussing
radar, stealth, etc. If you turn on your flashlight (radar) so you can
"see" the other guy, he can see you too. More importantly the radar
(flashlight) operator might have to scan to find the target, but the
reverse
is not true. When you turn your flashlight on, every guy in the dark
knows
where to aim.

Same thing with a generator. Want to know where there's food, gas and a
generator? Just listen. I've been through a couple of hurricanes and
it's
incredibly quiet when all the power's out and no one is driving around.
You
can zero in on a generator from quite a ways. For those who believe
they're
going to play "Josey Wales Holds Off the Indians" when civil unrest comes,
the death of our Libyan ambassador is a reminder of how easily a mob can
use
fire as a potent weapon.

I've finally broken down and got a CCTV recorder (dirt cheap, under $100
with 4WP IR colorcams w/o HD) that can send me email alerts if video
motion
is detected and then send pictures or live video of what the cameras see;
it even allows me to switch views remotely. Forget audio monitoring,
forget
waiting on someone to respond.

CCTV security is an inneresting topic, worthy of it's own thread. At Costco
I see these Lorex units, 8 channel/8 cameras, for $499, wonder if they're
worth it.
I'm sure there's software out there that could use existing pc's/drives, w/
cheap cameras.
Heh, or an "app"....
I imagine a minor problem with wireless setups is the possibility of
"jamming" them, like cell-phone jammers.

Where I am, it's already quasi-insurrection -- despite million-dollar homes.
Or mebbe it's just anarchy.... I don't know, hard to tell sometimes, when
you don't understand any of the languages....
--
EA






With a little work I'll be notified anywhere in the world when someone
comes
on the property and be able to talk in real time to someone who rings the
front door video intercom. I think that ability alone would deter most
burglars. The smart ones ring the bell for a long time to make sure
you're
not home. Even if they do get in, the video can be used to ID them for
either prosecution or revenge.

If I value the recorder at $50, the weatherproof cameras cost $12.50 each.
I've got more expensive doorbells so I can afford to put them out. With a
solid state drive, the whole thing runs off an 80Ah marine or wheelchair
battery for at least 24 hours. That's important because when I've had
trouble before during a blackout during a storm. Apparently the little
thieving sockcuckers come out in the dark and the rain to do their dirty
work. Anyone remember Disney's "The Mooncussers?"

--
Bobby G.

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...
On 10/2/2012 4:23 PM, Han wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

On 10/2/2012 1:34 PM, Han wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote in
:

On 10/1/2012 3:55 PM, Han wrote:
"Atila Iskander" wrote in
:


"The Daring Dufas" wrote in
message ...
There's been a lot of talk of generators and how to store
gasoline for them which got me to thinking of the conversions
I've done for customers who wished to run them on NG or LP gas. I
would buy the kits from the small engine and parts supplier and
the installation was pretty straight forward. Today I came across
a Generac unit that is LP ready and has a built in carrier for a
20lb propane tank. It appears to be a slick little system with
none of the problems from stale gasoline gumming up a genset that
sits for too long. ^_^

http://www.generac.com/Portables/LP_...oducts/LP3250/

TDD

At about $600 for the generator, you can buy a bigger one and a
separate conversion kit for less and be able to run either NG, LP
or gasoline
More flexibility for the same price.

I am looking for a generator like that. Do you have any specific
suggestions? Please?


What power output are you looking for? Or, what do you wish to run
at the same time? ^_^

Furnace, microwave, fridge, laptops. I guess the fridge is the
largest thing, a 10 year-old GE, the tag says it draws 6.5Amp.

Thanks!!


Han, depending on the wattage, the microwave may draw more current.
The furnace will have a label showing what the blower motor pulls. For
a 1/2 HP 115 volt blower motor, the current draw could be 6.5 to 8.5
amps. It's best to check it out before getting a generator that's too
small. ^_^

TDD

Furnace is natural gas, hot water circulator drawing 0.76 Amp.
Thermostat etc shouldn't draw much, I think.

Microwave is 900 watt, but it is a convection oven as well GE model 1490

Your help is appreciated!


Most of the Generac units I installed in homes some years ago were 8,000
watt natural gas powered automatic standby generators and it
was enough to power what you are referring to. Of course I installed
as large as 40kw for some customers but my favorite Generac was the
10kw 4cyl liquid cooled engine unit that ran at 1,800rpm which made
it very quiet and long lasting. ^_^

Those are nice styles, Onans, in partic.
Too bad car makers don't make a "generator option", of some sort.
The Chevy Volt would appear to be ready made for this... talk about quiet!
--
EA


TDD

In article ,
The Daring Dufas wrote:

On 10/2/2012 2:33 PM, HeyBub wrote:


I'll try 3/4" for my modest 6000kw generator. If that doesn't work, I'll try
1". If I still have problems. I'll investigate up-amped regulators (or
forget the whole thing).


I believe a contractor type portable generator I converted to NG for a
homeowner was a 6kw and it worked OK with a 1/2" line but your 6 million
watt generator would require a really big gas line. ^_^

TDD

He could tap into mine if he was a little closer. The gas line at the
bottom of my driveway is 36" in diameter, and 1000 p.s.i. House is 300
yards away, still within the 100% instant kill radius if the thing ever
decides to blow up.

But yeah, I'm thinking 6000kw is a little robust even for Texas.

I'm not sure about start current. Most of the refrig I've measured, run
about 4 to 5 amps, under load. Defrost can be 3 to 6 amps, been a while
since I measured one.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"gregz" wrote in message
...

I've got a Kill-a-Watt, but haven't really used it. Time to start that.
It scares me that starting current for a fridge would be more than twice
nominal current. I have to look what kind of circuit breaker the fridge
is on. How long would the peak startup amps be required, since the
circuit breaker doesn't blow.

Likely be 3-6 times normal current. Normal current should be 1.5- 2.5 amps.
Defrost mode is what consumes higher steady current, and the compressor is
off.

Greg

In article ,
Han wrote:

It scares me that starting current for a fridge would be more than twice
nominal current. I have to look what kind of circuit breaker the fridge
is on. How long would the peak startup amps be required, since the
circuit breaker doesn't blow.

Inrush current is ferocious, but lasts for much less than a second.
Circuit breakers don't trip anywhere near that fast.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Inrush_current

On 10/2/2012 9:36 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
In article ,
The Daring Dufas wrote:

On 10/2/2012 2:33 PM, HeyBub wrote:


I'll try 3/4" for my modest 6000kw generator. If that doesn't work, I'll try
1". If I still have problems. I'll investigate up-amped regulators (or
forget the whole thing).


I believe a contractor type portable generator I converted to NG for a
homeowner was a 6kw and it worked OK with a 1/2" line but your 6 million
watt generator would require a really big gas line. ^_^

TDD

He could tap into mine if he was a little closer. The gas line at the
bottom of my driveway is 36" in diameter, and 1000 p.s.i. House is 300
yards away, still within the 100% instant kill radius if the thing ever
decides to blow up.

But yeah, I'm thinking 6000kw is a little robust even for Texas.


I've worked on some fairly large generators like a 400kw pulled by a
tractor trailer and some of the power plants on the islands had big
EMD diesels. Heck there was one very old one that had a ship's diesel
engine running it. It made a very interesting "POK ah POK ah POK ah"
sound as it ran. I've never laid hands on a genset as big as a one
megawatt much less a six megawatt unit. ^_^

TDD

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
I'm not sure about start current. Most of the refrig I've measured, run
about 4 to 5 amps, under load. Defrost can be 3 to 6 amps, been a while
since I measured one.


I measured with killowatt. I thought they drew more, like 6 amps. Even my
old 70's fridge is only about 2.5 amps. My newer 90's will draw 12-13 amps
on defrost, or 1500 watts. Killowatt will also measure true power.

Greg


Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"gregz" wrote in message
...

I've got a Kill-a-Watt, but haven't really used it. Time to start that.
It scares me that starting current for a fridge would be more than twice
nominal current. I have to look what kind of circuit breaker the fridge
is on. How long would the peak startup amps be required, since the
circuit breaker doesn't blow.

Likely be 3-6 times normal current. Normal current should be 1.5- 2.5 amps.
Defrost mode is what consumes higher steady current, and the compressor is
off.

Greg

On Tue, 2 Oct 2012 22:27:11 -0400, "Existential Angst"
wrote:



Those are nice styles, Onans, in partic.
Too bad car makers don't make a "generator option", of some sort.
The Chevy Volt would appear to be ready made for this... talk about quiet!

You can set up your IC engine car for at least 2k watts for @ $200-300
with an inverter.
I looked into that and would use it before I bought a generator.
Haven't followed the entire thread, but if Han is thing about powering
his HVAC with a generator, he should check it out real good.
Some HVAC circuitry is touchy about sine wave.
I'll repeat what I said before,
For a cold weather outage, I have 2 20k BTU of kerosene heaters.
Really got them for the garage for winter work, but they burn pretty
clean. The gas range burners put about 16k BTU total. Pretty sure
the oven won't light without juice.
Still haven't bought one, but ventless gas space heaters run about
$200-300 for 30k BTU or so.
If I don't procrastinate on that I'll put a T, valve and flex hose on
the gas range line and tuck the hose behind. Connect the space heater
if I need it. The range line is 3/4" and will easily handle
everything.
Summertime outage that looks to last like the last one - 72 hours or
so - I'm taking off to a motel out of the outage area to wait it out.
I likes my electricity. A battery radio and candles is too much like
hard times.
To hell with the food. I never have more than a bills worth in the
fridge/freezer anyway.
My plan is a lot cheaper than a generator for something that might
happen once in 10 years. More dependable too.

That can work, if you have the gasoline to get there, and can find a room.
Years ago, I discovered that my generator will run the AC in my living room
window. That can provide some summer time comfort.

Cheaper than motel, and not as likely to come home and find my place looted.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Vic Smith" wrote in message
...

Summertime outage that looks to last like the last one - 72 hours or
so - I'm taking off to a motel out of the outage area to wait it out.
I likes my electricity. A battery radio and candles is too much like
hard times.
To hell with the food. I never have more than a bills worth in the
fridge/freezer anyway.
My plan is a lot cheaper than a generator for something that might
happen once in 10 years. More dependable too.

For the 2003 ice storm, and four day power cut. We didn't know how long the
power would be out. Even with kerosene heater and burners on the stove, the
trailer was really miserable cold by the second day. Day 3 or 4, I wired the
furnace into my generator. The natural gas had stayed on, the whole time.
Furnace was far more comfortable than portable heaters. Needed the fan
action, to bring the heat down from the ceiling.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Vic Smith" wrote in message
...

For a cold weather outage, I have 2 20k BTU of kerosene heaters.
Really got them for the garage for winter work, but they burn pretty
clean. The gas range burners put about 16k BTU total. Pretty sure
the oven won't light without juice.

Still haven't bought one, but ventless gas space heaters run about
$200-300 for 30k BTU or so.

If I don't procrastinate on that I'll put a T, valve and flex hose on
the gas range line and tuck the hose behind. Connect the space heater
if I need it. The range line is 3/4" and will easily handle
everything.

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
...
In article ,
The Daring Dufas wrote:

On 10/2/2012 2:33 PM, HeyBub wrote:


I'll try 3/4" for my modest 6000kw generator. If that doesn't work,
I'll try
1". If I still have problems. I'll investigate up-amped regulators (or
forget the whole thing).


I believe a contractor type portable generator I converted to NG for a
homeowner was a 6kw and it worked OK with a 1/2" line but your 6 million
watt generator would require a really big gas line. ^_^

TDD

He could tap into mine if he was a little closer. The gas line at the
bottom of my driveway is 36" in diameter, and 1000 p.s.i. House is 300
yards away, still within the 100% instant kill radius if the thing ever
decides to blow up.

But yeah, I'm thinking 6000kw is a little robust even for Texas.

Well in Texas, you're expected to think big