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#1
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I had my old hot tub removed.
Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? |
#2
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I'd suggest to call the building department, where you live. Do what they
say, not follow the advice of internet writers. On a practical level, I'd disconnect that wire from the double breaker. That way, it won't power the wire if someone turns on the breaker. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "bob" wrote in message ... I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? |
#3
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![]() bob wrote: I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? Put a weather rated electrical box with a blank cover on the end of the conduit, properly secured to the house. Then the circuit is safe and ready for any future use. Should cost $10 in materials. |
#4
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On Jul 16, 12:13*pm, "bob" wrote:
I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? Is this a temporary termination or 100% permanent? You could... 1 - Remove the cable from the panel 2 - Cut it off high above the panel, perhaps enclosing the cutoff end in a junction box in case you ever want to use the cable again. 3 - Label it for future reference 4 - Add a junction box at the conduit end in case you ever want to use the cable again or if there is room, push it back into the conduit and cap it. 5 - Label it for future reference Bottom line is that you should remove the cable from the panel box. |
#5
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On Jul 16, 12:27*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote: I'd suggest to call the building department, where you live. Do what they say, not follow the advice of internet writers. On a practical level, I'd disconnect that wire from the double breaker. That way, it won't power the wire if someone turns on the breaker. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus *www.lds.org . "bob" wrote in message ... I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? I've heard of people suggesting wireing nutting the hot to the neutral at teh far end so that the breaker will trip if it's ever turned on. I've even heard that Mike Holmes suggested this (not verified). I think it's a pretty dumb suggestion. Pulling the cable from the panel and cutting it up high seems like the best idea. |
#6
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On Jul 16, 12:27*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote: I'd suggest to call the building department, where you live. Do what they say, not follow the advice of internet writers. On a practical level, I'd disconnect that wire from the double breaker. That way, it won't power the wire if someone turns on the breaker. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus *www.lds.org . "bob" wrote in message ... I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? It would depend partly on what the future holds. If there is no future value in leaving the wiring in place, and you want to get rid of it all together, then I would: disconnect it at the breaker remove the breaker pull the cable from the panel cut off the panel end of the cable back to a reasonable/convenient point outside, remove the conduit, cut back the wiring to where it enters the house or similar convenient point, perhaps in the basement, etc if possible. Fill the holes as needed. On the other hand, if I thought it could be of future use for another hot tub, etc, then I'd just put a weatherproof box on the end, put wire nuts on the current carrying conductors and if the box is metal, connect the ground. Turn the breaker off and mark it. |
#7
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I'm in favor of being very safe, and also leaving the wire for future use.
Combine this, with disconnect and label the end at the panel box, and I think we've got a winner. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Pete C." wrote in message .com... Put a weather rated electrical box with a blank cover on the end of the conduit, properly secured to the house. Then the circuit is safe and ready for any future use. Should cost $10 in materials. |
#8
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I got a furnace repair call, one time. The breaker tripped, so the woman
(educated, wife of an attorney) reset the breaker. It tripped again, so she reset it again. She reset it some large number of times, until the breaker stayed on. The original breaker trip was from a furnace blower fan motor that was probably $75. The motor had shorted to ground. A fairly simple repair. After she reset many times, she vaporized the contacts, on the relay on the $200 prioprietary Carrier Bryant circuit board. I think that Holmes solution is inviting disaster. Instead of "cut it high", I'd coil it, label it, and tuck it into the cellar ceiling. So it can be reused. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "DerbyDad03" wrote in message ... I've heard of people suggesting wireing nutting the hot to the neutral at teh far end so that the breaker will trip if it's ever turned on. I've even heard that Mike Holmes suggested this (not verified). I think it's a pretty dumb suggestion. Pulling the cable from the panel and cutting it up high seems like the best idea. |
#9
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How do you cover the hole, where the breaker was?
Much better to label it "spare" and leave the breaker in. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. wrote in message ... disconnect it at the breaker remove the breaker Fill the holes as needed. |
#10
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On Jul 16, 12:56*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote: How do you cover the hole, where the breaker was? Much better to label it "spare" and leave the breaker in. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus *www.lds.org . wrote in message ... disconnect it at the breaker remove the breaker Fill the holes as needed. "How do you cover the hole, where the breaker was?" With breaker panel blanks. They're sold by "panel manufacturer" but you don't have to buy them from the manufacturer, if you know what I mean. |
#11
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On Jul 16, 12:51*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote: I'm in favor of being very safe, and also leaving the wire for future *use. Combine this, with disconnect and label the end at the panel box, and I think we've got a winner. Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus *www.lds.org . "Pete C." wrote in message .com... Put a weather rated electrical box with a blank cover on the end of the conduit, properly secured to the house. Then the circuit is safe and ready for any future use. Should cost $10 in materials. "Combine this, with disconnect and label the end at the panel box, and I think we've got a winner." umm...I said that earlier. I guess we already had a winner. ;-) |
#12
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responding to
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...er-704897-.htm DA wrote: bob wrote: I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, Given the amount of effort and money it took to install it, f it was compliant in the first place and not on the way of any new construction (deck, patio and such), I would put an outdoor outlet box ontop of that conduit, wirenut each wire and install a blank outlet cover (also outdoor rated) to block any access. Definitely tag the disconnected 2-pole breaker at the panel end. You never know if you need to sell the place in the future and hot tubs are back in vogue. May be useful to throw in a "free hot tub hookup" one day ... If you are willing to fuss with converting it to 120V, there may be some use for an actual working outdoor outlet back there for an electrical mower, trimmer, edger and whatever else they may come up with that plugs in. Oh, and another thing: let's say you buy a Nissan LEAF or another electric car at some point in the future (who knows?) - you've already got a 240V service passing through the garage. Depending on how it was pulled to get there, it may be easier to just reroute this cable to your brand spanking new 240V rapid charing station ![]() ------------------------------------- /\_/\ ((@v@)) NIGHT ():: ![]() VV-VV |
#13
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On 7/16/2012 12:13 PM, bob wrote:
I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? If you cut the cable off at the conduit, you're pretty much rendering the feeder useless, so you may as well disconnect it at the panel and rip the whole thing out. If you want to keep it useable for the future, and legal and safe for the present, the easiest option is to terminate the conduit in a 3R rain-tight enclosure, leaving the cable intact within the box, with the ends insulated. |
#14
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On Jul 16, 3:10*pm, RBM wrote:
On 7/16/2012 12:13 PM, bob wrote: I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? If you cut the cable off at the conduit, you're pretty much rendering the feeder useless, so you may as well disconnect it at the panel and rip the whole thing out. * If you want to keep it useable for the future, and legal and safe for the present, the easiest option is to terminate the conduit in a 3R rain-tight enclosure, leaving the cable intact within the box, with the ends insulated. What are your suggestions for the panel end? Would you leave it attached to the breaker or pulled out of the box, coiled and labeled? The assumption is that, at least at this point, you have no idea when, or even if, you'll ever use it again. |
#15
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On Mon, 16 Jul 2012 09:13:28 -0700, "bob" wrote:
I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? Pull the breaker or remove the wires from the breaker - or better yet, both. |
#16
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On Jul 16, 3:50*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jul 2012 09:13:28 -0700, "bob" wrote: I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? *Pull the breaker or remove the wires from the breaker - or better yet, both. I could be wrong, but I'm gonna guess that just pulling the breaker and leaving the wires dangling in the panel isn't code compliant. At least it doesn't sound like it would be. |
#17
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If the wiring is there anyway, wouldn't it make sense to put in an
outdoor-rated box and a 240v outlet for the few bucks it would cost? There are certainly power tools that are considered to be "better" in their 240v. models - table saws, air compressors, etc., so why not have a convenient way to use them if such units are purchased in the future? Art |
#18
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On 7/16/2012 3:27 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jul 16, 3:10 pm, RBM wrote: On 7/16/2012 12:13 PM, bob wrote: I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? If you cut the cable off at the conduit, you're pretty much rendering the feeder useless, so you may as well disconnect it at the panel and rip the whole thing out. If you want to keep it useable for the future, and legal and safe for the present, the easiest option is to terminate the conduit in a 3R rain-tight enclosure, leaving the cable intact within the box, with the ends insulated. What are your suggestions for the panel end? Would you leave it attached to the breaker or pulled out of the box, coiled and labeled? The assumption is that, at least at this point, you have no idea when, or even if, you'll ever use it again. His question was, what was easiest and legal. Disconnecting the conductors in the panel is more work. Insulating the conductors certainly makes them safe, and he can always throw a label inside the box with them. It may be that the OP doesn't feel comfortable to work inside the panel |
#19
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On 7/16/2012 4:31 PM, Arthur Shapiro wrote:
If the wiring is there anyway, wouldn't it make sense to put in an outdoor-rated box and a 240v outlet for the few bucks it would cost? There are certainly power tools that are considered to be "better" in their 240v. models - table saws, air compressors, etc., so why not have a convenient way to use them if such units are purchased in the future? Art There are just too many possibilities for that to be useful. If this is a typical full sized hot tub, the feeder is going to be 50 amp 4 wire. |
#20
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On 7/16/2012 3:59 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jul 16, 3:50 pm, wrote: On Mon, 16 Jul 2012 09:13:28 -0700, "bob" wrote: I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? Pull the breaker or remove the wires from the breaker - or better yet, both. I could be wrong, but I'm gonna guess that just pulling the breaker and leaving the wires dangling in the panel isn't code compliant. At least it doesn't sound like it would be. You would insulate them so they can't come in contact with anything live, but you'd still need to address the conduit and cable outside, even though it's dead. |
#21
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On Mon, 16 Jul 2012 12:59:13 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote: On Jul 16, 3:50Â*pm, wrote: On Mon, 16 Jul 2012 09:13:28 -0700, "bob" wrote: I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? Â*Pull the breaker or remove the wires from the breaker - or better yet, both. I could be wrong, but I'm gonna guess that just pulling the breaker and leaving the wires dangling in the panel isn't code compliant. At least it doesn't sound like it would be. It is if they are wire-nutted or taped. |
#22
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On Mon, 16 Jul 2012 09:13:28 -0700, "bob" wrote:
I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? Cutting off the wires will make them worthless, and they are not cheap these days. If you never plan to use them again, remove the wires and conduit entirely. If there is a chance of needing them again (another hottub), remove the breaker, tape the wire ends on BOTH ends of the wires. Better yet, pull the wires out of the conduit and save the wire. Leave conduit intact and cap the end. Unless the conduit has many bends, it's not that hard to put the wires back at a later time. |
#23
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On Jul 17, 2:16*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 16 Jul 2012 09:13:28 -0700, "bob" wrote: I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? Cutting off the wires will make them worthless, and they are not cheap these days. *If you never plan to use them again, remove the wires and conduit entirely. *If there is a chance of needing them again (another hottub), remove the breaker, tape the wire ends on BOTH ends of the wires. *Better yet, pull the wires out of the conduit and save the wire.. Leave conduit intact and cap the end. .... Unless the conduit has many bends, it's not that hard to put the wires back at a later time. ....or if the conduit is undersized for the number/size of the conductors. |
#24
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#26
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On Tue, 17 Jul 2012 17:52:21 -0600, Robert Neville
wrote: wrote: Hard enough that I'd avoid it if possible. Not if you tied a pull cord to the cable before pulling the cable. The cord is simple USUALLY the cable pulls easy enough, but an old dirty dry conduit can provide some sport. |
#27
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The easiest fix is terminating the outdoor end in a waterproof box, wire nut the ends.
in the panel disconnect the red and black wires to the breaker, wire nut the ends and mark the breaker spare. leave the wire nutted wires in the cabinet... this is the least work and leaves the cable available for future use.... |
#28
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"bob" wrote:
I had my old hot tub removed. Now there is an unused 240v power coming out of the garage wall in a conduit, down a few feet to the ground, then run along the edge of the house about 15 feet, and end with a cable sticking out the conduit, temporarily wrapped with electrical tapes. The power is turned off at the breaker panel, of course. What is the least amount of work to make this code compliant? Can I cut off the cable flush with the conduit exit, and then put a conduit cap on it? Do I have to put something at the end of the cut cables to cover the exposed copper wires? Feed it backwards with generator back to the box via switchover. Greg |
#29
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replying to bob, Bruce wrote:
How should I cap off to remove one of the wires in conduit not be used coming out from my hot tubs junction box that is separate from the outside electrical panel? -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...er-704897-.htm |
#30
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On Monday, July 17, 2017 at 1:14:09 PM UTC-4, Bruce wrote:
replying to bob, Bruce wrote: How should I cap off to remove one of the wires in conduit not be used coming out from my hot tubs junction box that is separate from the outside electrical panel? -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...er-704897-.htm Without seeing it and/or knowing more, impossible to answer. Capping off and removing a wire from a conduit are two different things. If it's an unused wire coming into a junction box, putting an appropriate size wire nut on it or electrical tape would cap it off. |
#31
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replying to trader_4, Bruce wrote:
It is a 220 conduit filled wire that was for the seat bubbles but the device eroded over time. So there were the 2 wires sticking out, smoking or sparking at times. I taped the wires off to try to make sure that would slow things down and be safer.. I'm not sure what a wire nut is so if you can tell me that would help. I am in the process of getting the tub going again and want it to be safe. Please let me know. Thanks -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...er-704897-.htm |
#32
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On Tuesday, July 18, 2017 at 1:14:09 AM UTC-4, Bruce wrote:
replying to trader_4, Bruce wrote: It is a 220 conduit filled wire that was for the seat bubbles but the device eroded over time. So there were the 2 wires sticking out, smoking or sparking at times. I taped the wires off to try to make sure that would slow things down and be safer.. I'm not sure what a wire nut is so if you can tell me that would help. I am in the process of getting the tub going again and want it to be safe. Please let me know. Thanks Google is a useful utility. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en_US&q=wire%20nut I'm all for learning how to DIY, but if you've got sparking and smoking wires near water and don't know what a wire nut is, this is not the best project to hone your electrical skills on. I strongly suggest calling an electrician before you hurt yourself or a loved one. |
#33
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On Tuesday, July 18, 2017 at 6:48:57 AM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, July 18, 2017 at 1:14:09 AM UTC-4, Bruce wrote: replying to trader_4, Bruce wrote: It is a 220 conduit filled wire that was for the seat bubbles but the device eroded over time. So there were the 2 wires sticking out, smoking or sparking at times. I taped the wires off to try to make sure that would slow things down and be safer.. I'm not sure what a wire nut is so if you can tell me that would help. I am in the process of getting the tub going again and want it to be safe. Please let me know. Thanks Google is a useful utility. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en_US&q=wire%20nut I'm all for learning how to DIY, but if you've got sparking and smoking wires near water and don't know what a wire nut is, this is not the best project to hone your electrical skills on. I strongly suggest calling an electrician before you hurt yourself or a loved one. I strongly suspect a troll. Sparking and smoking 240V wires sticking out by a spa where a blower was disconnected? |
#34
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replying to DerbyDad03, Bruce wrote:
Thanks., I do know what a wire nut is but didn't know that's what they were called. Is using the wire nuts and electrical tape enough to safely operate the hot tub? No water back in it yet. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...er-704897-.htm |
#35
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On Tue, 18 Jul 2017 15:44:02 GMT, Bruce
m wrote: replying to DerbyDad03, Bruce wrote: Thanks., I do know what a wire nut is but didn't know that's what they were called. Is using the wire nuts and electrical tape enough to safely operate the hot tub? No water back in it yet. Bruce, Something about what you have written just does not sound right. Exactly where is the wire you wish to cap off? Is it the wire that actually connected to the bubbler pump? Can you post some pictures of what you are dealing with? |
#36
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On Tuesday, July 18, 2017 at 11:44:09 AM UTC-4, Bruce wrote:
replying to DerbyDad03, Bruce wrote: Thanks., I do know what a wire nut is but didn't know that's what they were called. Is using the wire nuts and electrical tape enough to safely operate the hot tub? No water back in it yet. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...er-704897-.htm How can you possibly expect anyone here to answer that question? We have no way of knowing what you have there, no pic, nothing. Nor do we know how it was installed or what's right or wrong. I'm with Derby, get an electrician before you kill someone. IDK how you could have wires sticking out, smoking, sparking at a spa to begin with. |
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replying to trader_4, Bruce wrote:
No troll I think. 80's era spa and the seat blower eroded from the elements. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...er-704897-.htm |
#38
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On Tuesday, July 18, 2017 at 11:44:09 AM UTC-4, Bruce wrote:
replying to DerbyDad03, Bruce wrote: Thanks., I do know what a wire nut is but didn't know that's what they were called. Is using the wire nuts and electrical tape enough to safely operate the hot tub? No water back in it yet. -- for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...er-704897-.htm Again, impossible to answer for all the reasons previously cited. There is a lot more to safely wiring a spa than just capping off wires that were sparking and smoking. Having just one thing wrong could kill someone. And no offense, but if you didn't know what a wire nut was, as Derbydad said, this isn't the project to be learning on. |
#39
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#40
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replying to Stormin' Norman, Bruce wrote:
Here u go STNRNM? I hope I'm posting right. Thanks https://www.homeownershub.com/img/9y |
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