Recently I wired a WISP antenna/radio to the key rooms of the house with
a star network based mostly on your help.

Guess what I found out today when I went to plug in the kid's game room
Nintendo Wii to the newly wired Ethernet jack?

The Wii doesn't have an Ethernet port! Sigh.

(Note: Apparently I 'could' add an Ethernet adapter to the Wii itself,
but for now, I think I'll just start researching what new router to buy
so that the old (Linksys WRT54G) router can become a WiFi extender
plugged into the newly wired game room wall jack!)

On 01/12/2012 06:44 PM, Chuck Banshee wrote:
Recently I wired a WISP antenna/radio to the key rooms of the house with
a star network based mostly on your help.

Guess what I found out today when I went to plug in the kid's game room
Nintendo Wii to the newly wired Ethernet jack?

The Wii doesn't have an Ethernet port! Sigh.

(Note: Apparently I 'could' add an Ethernet adapter to the Wii itself,
but for now, I think I'll just start researching what new router to buy
so that the old (Linksys WRT54G) router can become a WiFi extender
plugged into the newly wired game room wall jack!)

I have yet to find a better home wireless router than the WRT54GL
(that's the one that I have that you can flash with DD-WRT etc. You
might be able to do the same with yours depending on production
date/exact model.) I've tried various wireless-N/gigabit routers both
Linksys/Cisco and Netgear and honestly, I can't tell the difference in
speed and the old "blue box" just keeps on going whereas the other ones
seem to brick themselves after a year or two. I say stick with what
works, just get another one. If I ever set up a wired home network I
will probably use a good Cisco rack-mount switch and keep the blue box
for wireless. I hate having to replace stuff after only a short period
of service.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On Thu, 12 Jan 2012 23:44:48 +0000 (UTC), Chuck Banshee
wrote:

The Wii doesn't have an Ethernet port! Sigh.

About $10 anywhere. Many USB to ethernet adapters will work.
http://www.amazon.com/Nintendo-Wii-USB-Enabled-Lan-Adapter/dp/B000WY8GW8
Plenty more available. Google for "Wii ethernet adapter".

Hint: Ask the kids next time. They usually know more about such
things than the adults. If they don't, the exercise in finding the
solution will be quite educational. If done diplomatically, they may
even let you play with their games.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

On Thu, 12 Jan 2012 18:50:47 -0500, Nate Nagel
wrote:

I have yet to find a better home wireless router than the WRT54GL
(that's the one that I have that you can flash with DD-WRT etc.
snip

That's my favorite, too. I currently have 6 of them deployed around
the house. One is my gateway router, two are access points, two are
client bridges, and one is just acting as a switch. I install dd-wrt
as soon as I take them out of the box. Newegg sometimes puts them on
sale for $44.95, which isn't too bad for such a general purpose item.

On Thu, 12 Jan 2012 22:07:17 -0600, Char Jackson
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Jan 2012 18:50:47 -0500, Nate Nagel
wrote:

I have yet to find a better home wireless router than the WRT54GL
(that's the one that I have that you can flash with DD-WRT etc.
snip

That's my favorite, too. I currently have 6 of them deployed around
the house. One is my gateway router, two are access points, two are
client bridges, and one is just acting as a switch. I install dd-wrt
as soon as I take them out of the box. Newegg sometimes puts them on
sale for $44.95, which isn't too bad for such a general purpose item.

wha!!!???? Y'mean I could buy another and put it downstairs so I
don't have to go upstairs to reboot for my wife's recalcitrant
Toshiba?

here's my setup-
Cable comes in upstairs and is hooked to a TW modem and then to the
WRT54GL.

We have a half dozen things that use it upstairs wirelessly. I have
a Cat5 running downstairs for my desktop setup- and a work computer
that can't go wireless.

No other computers seem to have problems getting a signal downstairs.
but my wife's Toshiba always seems to need us to reboot the router to
get a signal.

I never thought of adding another WRT54GL downstairs. Might that
help her computer get a connection-- or at least eliminate my need to
go upstairs to reboot the router? [I'm reading this on a-h-r,
so if I go that way, I'll be coming over to a-i-w to figure out the
*how-to*]

Thanks-
Jim

On Thu, 12 Jan 2012 17:48:29 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
About $10 anywhere.

Hi Jeff,
You have a gift for finding the lowest prices!
I had found it on the Nintendo site for much much more.
At that price, unless the wifi extender is valuable otherwise, it's worth
it to just get the wii adapter!

On Jan 12, 6:44*pm, Chuck Banshee wrote:
Recently I wired a WISP antenna/radio to the key rooms of the house with
a star network based mostly on your help.

Guess what I found out today when I went to plug in the kid's game room
Nintendo Wii to the newly wired Ethernet jack?

The Wii doesn't have an Ethernet port! *Sigh.

(Note: Apparently I 'could' add an Ethernet adapter to the Wii itself,
but for now, I think I'll just start researching what new router to buy
so that the old (Linksys WRT54G) router can become a WiFi extender
plugged into the newly wired game room wall jack!)

I'm confused. It sounds like you propose to use the
old Linksys wireless router in the game room as a solution to
the Wii not having an ethernet port? But then how
does the Wii connect to the Linksys router?

On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 06:59:02 -0500, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Jan 2012 22:07:17 -0600, Char Jackson
wrote:

On Thu, 12 Jan 2012 18:50:47 -0500, Nate Nagel
wrote:

I have yet to find a better home wireless router than the WRT54GL
(that's the one that I have that you can flash with DD-WRT etc.
snip

That's my favorite, too. I currently have 6 of them deployed around
the house. One is my gateway router, two are access points, two are
client bridges, and one is just acting as a switch. I install dd-wrt
as soon as I take them out of the box. Newegg sometimes puts them on
sale for $44.95, which isn't too bad for such a general purpose item.

wha!!!???? Y'mean I could buy another and put it downstairs so I
don't have to go upstairs to reboot for my wife's recalcitrant
Toshiba?

here's my setup-
Cable comes in upstairs and is hooked to a TW modem and then to the
WRT54GL.

We have a half dozen things that use it upstairs wirelessly. I have
a Cat5 running downstairs for my desktop setup- and a work computer
that can't go wireless.

No other computers seem to have problems getting a signal downstairs.
but my wife's Toshiba always seems to need us to reboot the router to
get a signal.

I never thought of adding another WRT54GL downstairs. Might that
help her computer get a connection-- or at least eliminate my need to
go upstairs to reboot the router? [I'm reading this on a-h-r,
so if I go that way, I'll be coming over to a-i-w to figure out the
*how-to*]

I don't know enough about your situation to offer concrete advice, but
if it's purely a signal strength/integrity issue, then placing a
second access point in a convenient location can help.

Since you have a wired connection available downstairs, I'd probably
start by placing an access point there. If that's a worse location
than what you have now, consider powerline networking to bring an
Ethernet connection to where you really want it, then place an access
point there.

Basically, any router can be used as an access point by disabling its
DHCP server and plugging the Ethernet cable into a LAN port, leaving
the WAN port unused. It's your choice whether to duplicate the SSID,
encryption level, and password, of the wireless router upstairs.
Personally, I prefer different SSID's so I know where I'm connecting.
Using the same settings might allow seamless roaming, but in my
experience seamless roaming doesn't work well and I don't move around
the house that much anyway. Accordingly, I use a different SSID and a
non-overlapping channel (1,6,or 11). Does that help?

Jim Elbrecht wrote in
:

No other computers seem to have problems getting a signal downstairs.
but my wife's Toshiba always seems to need us to reboot the router to
get a signal.

I have FiOS, so deal with their ActionTec. Its wireless became much easier
to connect to after I changed the WPA from TKIP to AES encryption.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On 13 Jan 2012 21:00:08 GMT, Han wrote:

Jim Elbrecht wrote in
:

No other computers seem to have problems getting a signal downstairs.
but my wife's Toshiba always seems to need us to reboot the router to
get a signal.

I have FiOS, so deal with their ActionTec. Its wireless became much easier
to connect to after I changed the WPA from TKIP to AES encryption.

I found AES negotiation faster on my ThinkPad. Unfortunately it won't connect
to my cell phone at all (well, it did twice). :-(

" wrote in
:

On 13 Jan 2012 21:00:08 GMT, Han wrote:

Jim Elbrecht wrote in
m:

No other computers seem to have problems getting a signal
downstairs. but my wife's Toshiba always seems to need us to reboot
the router to get a signal.

I have FiOS, so deal with their ActionTec. Its wireless became much
easier to connect to after I changed the WPA from TKIP to AES
encryption.

I found AES negotiation faster on my ThinkPad. Unfortunately it won't
connect to my cell phone at all (well, it did twice). :-(

No problem with either iPhone 3GS or 4S. Even wife is happy now ...


--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 09:25:06 -0600, Char Jackson wrote:
Basically, any router can be used as an access point by disabling its
DHCP server and plugging the Ethernet cable into a LAN port, leaving the
WAN port unused.

Wow. Is it really that simple?

I have a telco (Verizon) dsl wireless router around somewhere ... I think
I'll look for it to see if I can log into it to try this.

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 03:50:50 +0000 (UTC), Chuck Banshee
wrote:

On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 09:25:06 -0600, Char Jackson wrote:
Basically, any router can be used as an access point by disabling its
DHCP server and plugging the Ethernet cable into a LAN port, leaving the
WAN port unused.

Wow. Is it really that simple?

Yep. Any wireless router can be used as an access point:
http://www.dslreports.com/faq/11233
http://www.speedguide.net/articles/how-to-set-a-wireless-router-as-an-access-point-2556
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/30338-how-to-convert-a-wireless-router-into-an-access-point
http://support.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/965/kw/wireless%20router%20as%20an%20access%20point
etc...

I have a telco (Verizon) dsl wireless router around somewhere ... I think
I'll look for it to see if I can log into it to try this.

Reminder...
Turn off the DHCP server, turn off Plug-n-Play, turn off RIP2.

--
# Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060
# 831-336-2558
# http://802.11junk.com
# http://www.LearnByDestroying.com AE6KS

On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 07:15:46 -0800, wrote:
I'm confused. It sounds like you propose to use the old Linksys
wireless router in the game room as a solution to the Wii not having an
ethernet port? But then how does the Wii connect to the Linksys
router?

Sorry for not being clear.

The Wii, by default, connects wirelessly.

My current problem is the signal strength at the Wii of the wireless
signal from my Linksys WRT54G home broadband router in the office is weak
at the game room.

I had hoped to simply wire the Wii (and I still may do that using Jeff's
suggestion of the USB-to-Ethernet adapter for the Wii)...

But, another option is to get a second wireless router, and set it up in
the game room (near the Wii) as a wireless repeater/access point (I'm not
sure if it's a 'repeater' or an 'access point' because I'm not sure of
the differences yet).

According to the information just posted by Char & Jeff, all I need to do
to convert the new router to an (access point? repeater?) is:
1. Disable DHCP
2. Do not use the WAN port
3. Plug the incoming cat5e wire from the office router into one of the
LAN ports of the game room router
4. Optionally set up the SSID, WPA2/PSK, & channel of the game room
router to the same settings as the office home broadband wireless router

I think the signal speed is halved though ... but I have to do more
research reading Jeff's links...

Also, in practice, I'll likely see if I can dig up that Verizon telco
wireless router instead of buying a new one ... or ... if I can't find it
and if I buy a new one, I'll probably switch the new with the old (just
because).

Char Jackson wrote:

On Fri, 13 Jan 2012 06:59:02 -0500, Jim Elbrecht
wrote:


-snip-
I never thought of adding another WRT54GL downstairs. Might that
help her computer get a connection-- or at least eliminate my need to
go upstairs to reboot the router? [I'm reading this on a-h-r,
so if I go that way, I'll be coming over to a-i-w to figure out the
*how-to*]

I don't know enough about your situation to offer concrete advice, but
if it's purely a signal strength/integrity issue, then placing a
second access point in a convenient location can help.


Thanks--- I might give this a try. When I get around to it I'll
wander over to a-i-w & try to absorb enough knowledge to pull it off.

Jim

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 12:44:01 -0500, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Thanks--- I might give this a try. When I get around to it I'll
wander over to a-i-w & try to absorb enough knowledge to pull it off.

Read this ... (which I just read myself to figure out the difference
between setting up an additional access point (wired) versus a repeater
(not wired):

http://tinyurl.com/28qautl

http://www.40tech.com/2010/09/20/how...your-wireless-
network-using-a-spare-router-as-a-wireless-access-point/

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 17:32:08 +0000, Chuck Banshee wrote:

I'm not sure if it's a 'repeater' or an 'access point'
because I'm not sure of the differences yet.

Just looked that up.

Secondary access point is wired (which is what I have).

A secondary repeater is not wired (which isn't what I want).

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 17:32:08 +0000 (UTC), Chuck Banshee
wrote:

I think the signal speed is halved though ... but I have to do more
research reading Jeff's links...

Nope. The speed from a seperate access point is the same. No losses.

However, the *MAXIMUM* speed of a store and forward repeater is cut in
half. Each packet goes through the air twice. Once between the AP
and the repeater, and again between the repeater and the computah.
Actually, 50% is rather optimistic as I've seen repeaters that cut
throughput to about 10% of max speed. Note that a repeater has to
operate on the same channel as the wireless router. Same opinion as
before... repeater suck.

I suggest you use a different SSID from your Linksys wireless router
so that the kids can choose which one to connect. Also, select a
different RF channel (1, 6, and 11) so that there's no mutual
interference.


--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 18:22:30 +0000 (UTC), Chuck Banshee
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 17:32:08 +0000, Chuck Banshee wrote:

I'm not sure if it's a 'repeater' or an 'access point'
because I'm not sure of the differences yet.

Just looked that up.

Secondary access point is wired (which is what I have).

A secondary repeater is not wired (which isn't what I want).

Correct. You want an access point, not a repeater.

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 10:36:38 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Nope. The speed from a separate access point is the same.

Ah, I got it. (I'm mostly from alt.home.repair ... so this is a 'new'
revelation that is old hat to you on alt.internet.wireless).

ACCESS POINT vs REPEATER:
* The 'access point' is wired & the speed is the same
* The 'repeater' is not wired; and the speed is lousy
* I clearly would want an access point

WE WANT AN ACCESS POINT:
* The access point is simply a router with:
a) DHCP turned off
b) The WAN port unused with the incoming cat5e going into a LAN port
c) The SSID, encryption, & channel can be the same or different as the
primary router but two of you (Jeff & Char) strongly recommend different
SSID & channels than the primary router.

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 12:44:01 -0500, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
Thanks--- I might give this a try. When I get around to it I'll
wander over to a-i-w & try to absorb enough knowledge to pull it off.

Hi Jim,
Your signal-strength problem & wiring situation 'appear' to be the same
as mine (just substitute Toshiba for Wii).

Here's my first rough draft so that the others will correct our mistakes
(before we make 'em!).

Note: These are just example numbers (yours & mine will vary).
Note: This assumes Linksys WRT54G routers (the only one I know).

Write down the primary router information (note 1' === primary):
a) SSID, security, & passphrase (e.g., WRT54G-1, WPA2/AES, & 'foobar')
b) IP address (e.g., 192.168.1.1)
c) DHCP range (e.g., 192.168.1.2 to 192.168.1.150)
c) Channel (e.g., channel 2)

Set up your secondary router (note 2' === secondary):
a) Temporarily connect a cable from your PC to the 2' router LAN port
b) Set your PC IP address to the same subnet as the 2' router
- Linux: ifconfig eth0 192.168.1.2
- Windows: http://tinyurl.com/7ppzy7h (i.e., obtain an IP address
automatically)
c) Log into the 2' router default IP address (e.g., http://192.168.1.1)
d) Turn off DHCP (i.e., let the 1' router assign all IP addresses!)
e) Set up the 2' router with a different SSID (e.g., WRT54G-2)
f) Use the same encryption & passphrase in the 2' router as in the 1'
router (e.g., WPA2/AES, & 'foobar')
f) Give the 2' router an unused IP address in the same subnet as the 1'
router DHCP range, but "outside" the range of the 1' router (e.g.,
192.168.1.200)
g) Set the 2' router channel opposite that of the primary (e.g., channel
11)
h) Unplug the PC from the 2' router (which is now configured as an access
point)

Hook up the 2' router as the access point downstairs:
a) Don't plug anything into the 2' router's WAN port!
b) Plug the cable from the wall jack to a LAN port on the 2' router
c) See if you can connect to the SSID of the 2' router!

Note: I don't yet have that 2' router so I haven't actually done this
yet; plus, I have an unused (Verizon) DSL router somewhere that I would
use first ... so assume this is only an untested rough draft, submitted
for comment & corrections.

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 01:46:19 +0000 (UTC), Chuck Banshee
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 10:36:38 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Nope. The speed from a separate access point is the same.

Ah, I got it. (I'm mostly from alt.home.repair ... so this is a 'new'
revelation that is old hat to you on alt.internet.wireless).

Ok, I'll keep it simple.

I previously posted 3 URL's to sites explaining how to do it. Please
re-read:
http://www.dslreports.com/faq/11233
http://www.speedguide.net/articles/how-to-set-a-wireless-router-as-an-access-point-2556
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wireless/wireless-basics/30338-how-to-convert-a-wireless-router-into-an-access-point
http://support.netgear.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/965/kw/wireless%20router%20as%20an%20access%20point
etc...

WE WANT AN ACCESS POINT:
* The access point is simply a router with:
a) DHCP turned off

Turn off the DHCP server, RIP2, and Plug-N-Pray.

b) The WAN port unused with the incoming cat5e going into a LAN port

Nope. NOTHING goes into the WAN (internet) port on the access point.
The CAT5e cable goes between any LAN port on the main wireless router,
to any LAN port on the access point.

c) The SSID, encryption, & channel can be the same or different as the
primary router but two of you (Jeff & Char) strongly recommend different
SSID & channels than the primary router.

If you make the SSID the same, you might be lucky and get "seamless
roaming" where it switches automagically to the strongest signal as
you wander around the house. More likely, it will stay connected to
the first signal heard, and not release even if the other signal is
better. When you try to manually select which signal to use, you'll
find that you have on choice with a single SSID, unless your wireless
client is one of the few that allow for selection my MAC address.

If you put both on the same RF channel, you can realistically only use
one system at a time, as the added traffic from a connection on the
other radio constitutes co-channel interference.

--
Jeff Liebermann
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 18:48:35 -0800, Jeff Liebermann
wrote:

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 01:46:19 +0000 (UTC), Chuck Banshee
wrote:

b) The WAN port unused with the incoming cat5e going into a LAN port

Nope. NOTHING goes into the WAN (internet) port on the access point.
The CAT5e cable goes between any LAN port on the main wireless router,
to any LAN port on the access point.

I think the three of us are saying the same thing. Change the "nope"
above to "yep" and we're all set.

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 18:48:35 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Turn off the DHCP server, RIP2, and Plug-N-Pray.

Hi Jeff,
I read 'all' the quoted references (see reference section at bottom).
I'm sure I'll still make mistakes, but, here is my second draft of the
plan (mostly for Jim Elbrecht & anyone else who has never done this but
who has Linksys equipment), for review, for setting up a second Linksys
WRT54G router as an access point in a typical home setting:

Write down the primary router information (note 1' === primary):
a) SSID, security, & passphrase (e.g., WRT54G-1, WPA2/AES, & 'foobar')
b) IP address (e.g., 192.168.1.1)
c) DHCP range (e.g., 192.168.1.10 to 192.168.1.100)
d) Channel (e.g., channel 1)
e) All subnet masks for both routers are assumed to be 255.255.255.0

Set up your secondary router (note 2' === secondary):
a) Temporarily connect a cable from your PC to the 2' router LAN port
b) Set your PC IP address to the same subnet as the 2' router
- Linux: ifconfig eth0 192.168.1.2
- Windows: http://tinyurl.com/7ppzy7h (i.e., obtain an IP address
automatically & release/renew with "ipconfig")
c) Log into the 2' router default IP address (e.g., http://192.168.1.1)
d) Give the 2' router an unused IP address in the same subnet as the 1'
router DHCP range, but above or below (i.e., "outside") the range of the
1' router (e.g., 192.168.1.200)
e) Turn off DHCP serving (i.e., let the 1' router assign all IP
addresses!)'
f) Turn off RIP or RIP2 if that option exists.
g) Turn off Universal Plug-N-Play (UPnP) support, if that option exists.
h) It's best to set up the 2' router with a different SSID (e.g.,
WRT54G-2) but the same case-sensitive SSID 'can' be used.
i) It's best to allow broadcasting of your 2' router SSID
j) It's best to use the same encryption & passphrase in the 2' router as
in the 1' router (e.g., WPA2/AES, & 'foobar')
k) Choose a channel with good separation between the 1' and 2' router
(e.g., if the 1' router is on channel 1, put the 2' router on channel 6
or 11)
l) Unplug the PC from the 2' router (which is now configured as an access
point)

Hook up the 2' router as the access point downstairs:
a) Don't plug anything into the 2' router's WAN port!
b) Plug the cable from the wall jack to a LAN port on the 2' router
c) Technically, you need a crossover cable to connect the 1' router to
the 2' router but most routers support auto-crossover (MDI/MDI-X)

Test the newly set up access point by wi
a) Connect the PC by cable to a LAN port of the 2'router
b) If you're not immediately connected, reboot routers & PCs in that order
c) If still not connected, doublecheck the PC IP address is on the same
subnet (see prior instructions above)

Test the newly set up access point by wireless:
a) Disconnect the PC from the 2' router LAN port
b) In wireless networking, search for & select the broadcast SSID
c) Enter the 2' router passphrase and you should be connected wirelesssly!

REFERENCES:
http://www.smallnetbuilder.com/wirel.../30338-how-to-
convert-a-wireless-router-into-an-access-point
http://www.dslreports.com/faq/11233
http://www.speedguide.net/articles/h...-router-as-an-
access-point-2556
http://support.netgear.com/app/answe...5/kw/wireless%
20router%20as%20an%20access%20point
http://tinyurl.com/28qautl

On Sun, 15 Jan 2012 15:22:04 +0000 (UTC), Chuck Banshee
wrote:

On Sat, 14 Jan 2012 18:48:35 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Turn off the DHCP server, RIP2, and Plug-N-Pray.

Hi Jeff,
I read 'all' the quoted references (see reference section at bottom).
I'm sure I'll still make mistakes, but, here is my second draft of the
plan (mostly for Jim Elbrecht & anyone else who has never done this but
who has Linksys equipment), for review, for setting up a second Linksys
WRT54G router as an access point in a typical home setting:

I appreciate it, too. There is no tutorial better than one written
by someone who doesn't just do this stuff all the time without having
to think through every step.

And we get the benefit of the guys who *can* just throw this together
looking over our shoulders and pointing out mistakes.

Thanks all- I'll start shopping for my second router.
Jim

On 14 Jan 2012 01:42:46 GMT, Han wrote:

" wrote in
:

On 13 Jan 2012 21:00:08 GMT, Han wrote:

Jim Elbrecht wrote in
:

No other computers seem to have problems getting a signal
downstairs. but my wife's Toshiba always seems to need us to reboot
the router to get a signal.

I have FiOS, so deal with their ActionTec. Its wireless became much
easier to connect to after I changed the WPA from TKIP to AES
encryption.

I found AES negotiation faster on my ThinkPad. Unfortunately it won't
connect to my cell phone at all (well, it did twice). :-(

No problem with either iPhone 3GS or 4S. Even wife is happy now ...

The phone (Moto Droid Razr) will connect to my routers fine but my ThinkPad
won't connect to the phone when it's doing G3 or G4. I got it to work twice
out of perhaps two hundred attempts. My EeePC connects without problems. Hmm,
I should try my wife's ThinkPad (much newer)...

In alt.internet.wireless Chuck Banshee wrote:
The Wii doesn't have an Ethernet port! Sigh.

(Note: Apparently I 'could' add an Ethernet adapter to the Wii itself,
but for now, I think I'll just start researching what new router to buy
so that the old (Linksys WRT54G) router can become a WiFi extender
plugged into the newly wired game room wall jack!)


I moved my DLink DIR-655 GigE/N router to the far end of my house and
dragged a cable under the house, so I could hardwire a couple of DirecTV
boxes. I only use that WiFi for the Wii.

It seems to be an excellent box.

The reason it is at the far end of my house is because I have a SamKnows
Whitebox NETGEAR WNR3500L as my primary router. I do this to participate
in the FCC survey of broadband providers, but it is not as good a router as
the DLink. The WiFi range is less, and some devices connect to it at
65Mbps, but none at higher, and some at only 54Mbps. I suppose tat could
be because of the non-standard firmware load from SamKnows, but their
support isn't helping, and I think the lack of good N speeds is a hardware
fault.


--
Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5

In alt.internet.wireless Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Yep. Any wireless router can be used as an access point:

It's helpful to have a checklist of the things you need to change, probably
following one of Jeff's cited pages correctly.

I'd done it a few times, and did it again recently, but I had to do it
several times from hard reset because I kept cutting off my own
communication from the new box before finalizing the config. Gotta do the
steps in the right order, or you'll need the weird cabling that Jeff posted
a long time ago to get admin access to the box.

Since the WAN port is unused, I've thought of enabling "remote admin" and
then I could plug a laptop in to that port, but the idea of remote admin
being live bugs me.

--
Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5

In alt.internet.wireless zzzz wrote:

I found AES negotiation faster on my ThinkPad. Unfortunately it won't
connect to my cell phone at all (well, it did twice). :-(

Need a new cell phone, apparently.

My Thinkpad W510 (Intel(R) Centrino(R) Advanced-N 6200 AGN) will only
connect to my Netgear WNR3500L WPA2-PSK [AES] at 54MBps.
It connects to other routers at up to 240Mbps, and other devices connect to
the Netgear at 65Mbps, none higher.

--
Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5

In alt.internet.wireless Chuck Banshee wrote:
My current problem is the signal strength at the Wii of the wireless
signal from my Linksys WRT54G home broadband router in the office is weak
at the game room.

This thread is so long, I didn't go back and look:
If you just need a little signal boost, maybe a reflector is the right
solution.

http://www.rahul.net/dold/clarence/EZ10-strength.htm

But now I prefer the Windsurfer from the same site.
http://www.freeantennas.com/projects...te2/index.html
http://www.rahul.net/dold/clarence/EZ12-windsurfer.jpg
printed on photo paper for thick stock, with aluminum foil glued to the
sail, provides a substantial boost in signal. Leave the "tabs" longer than
indicated on the drawing, for easier assembly.

--
Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5

On Wed, 18 Jan 2012 17:52:31 +0000 (UTC), wrote:

In alt.internet.wireless Jeff Liebermann wrote:
Yep. Any wireless router can be used as an access point:

Since the WAN port is unused, I've thought of enabling "remote admin" and
then I could plug a laptop in to that port, but the idea of remote admin
being live bugs me.

In some of my installations there's a use for 5 LAN ports rather than
the usual 4, so I assign the WAN port to the LAN switch. (dd-wrt)
No need to enable remote admin when you're coming in on the LAN side.

In alt.internet.wireless Char Jackson wrote:
In some of my installations there's a use for 5 LAN ports rather than
the usual 4, so I assign the WAN port to the LAN switch. (dd-wrt)
No need to enable remote admin when you're coming in on the LAN side.

Just stock here (except for the SamKnows special. No DD-WRT.
I think I have a little tiny GigE 100BaseT switch in the garage somewhere.
The Netgear was easier to find, and put WiFi two feet from the Nintendo,
instead of 50 feet.

--
Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5

In alt.internet.wireless Jeff Liebermann wrote:

I suggest you use a different SSID from your Linksys wireless router
so that the kids can choose which one to connect. Also, select a
different RF channel (1, 6, and 11) so that there's no mutual
interference.

http://www.metageek.net/products/inssider/ is a handy Windows tool for
watching for interference from neighbors.

My neighbors apparently turn off their routers when they aren't using them
(leftover habit from dialup days?), since I see them sometimes and not
others.

--
Clarence A Dold - Hidden Valley Lake, CA, USA GPS: 38.8,-122.5

On Wed, 18 Jan 2012 18:01:06 +0000 (UTC), wrote:

In alt.internet.wireless zzzz wrote:

I found AES negotiation faster on my ThinkPad. Unfortunately it won't
connect to my cell phone at all (well, it did twice). :-(

Need a new cell phone, apparently.

It *is* a new cell phone (Moto Droid Razr).

My Thinkpad W510 (Intel(R) Centrino(R) Advanced-N 6200 AGN) will only
connect to my Netgear WNR3500L WPA2-PSK [AES] at 54MBps.
It connects to other routers at up to 240Mbps, and other devices connect to
the Netgear at 65Mbps, none higher.

It is *not* a new ThinkPad (T61P).