I service freezers, for selling bagged ice. I have seen a run of dusty
condensors, and this month, been changing out condensor fans.

With the dirty condensor, the pressures and temps go up. Does that tend to
cook the condensor fans? Causing early failure? It seems sensible.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Dec 9, 5:38*pm, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I service freezers, for selling bagged ice. I have seen a run of dusty
condensors, and this month, been changing out condensor fans.

With the dirty condensor, the pressures and temps go up. Does that tend to
cook the condensor fans? Causing early failure? It seems sensible.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

It shouldnt affect the blades unless they are made of tin which alot
are , in which case they could get warped somewhat if they are right
up to the condensor coils in a shroud and seeing alot of residual heat
from the condensor/compressor . Clean the fan blades when you do
service on the unit so it moves the maximum cfm.

On 12/9/2011 5:38 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I service freezers, for selling bagged ice. I have seen a run of dusty
condensors, and this month, been changing out condensor fans.

With the dirty condensor, the pressures and temps go up. Does that tend to
cook the condensor fans? Causing early failure? It seems sensible.


Heck, you know the motors are cooled by air flowing over them. Restrict
air flow and raise its temperature and what do you think is going to
happen. The fact that those boxes sit outside in hot weather can also
heat stress the condenser fan motor. Funny thing though, the motor may
not fail until months after a severe overheating. :-(

TDD

The blades aren't the issue. The problem is that the fan motor bearings get
sluggish. The fan over heats, and there is no rotation or air flow.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

" wrote in message
...

It shouldnt affect the blades unless they are made of tin which alot
are , in which case they could get warped somewhat if they are right
up to the condensor coils in a shroud and seeing alot of residual heat
from the condensor/compressor . Clean the fan blades when you do
service on the unit so it moves the maximum cfm.

Nine watts isn't a lot of heat to dissipate. But, you're right, they would
have to be air cooled. The dirty condensor blocks the air flow -- both to
the condensor and the air over the fan. Both result in higher temperatures.
That's how I view it, just wanted to see if anyone else saw that kind of
thing in the real world. Thanks.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

Heck, you know the motors are cooled by air flowing over them. Restrict
air flow and raise its temperature and what do you think is going to
happen. The fact that those boxes sit outside in hot weather can also
heat stress the condenser fan motor. Funny thing though, the motor may
not fail until months after a severe overheating. :-(

TDD

On 12/12/2011 7:27 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Nine watts isn't a lot of heat to dissipate. But, you're right, they would
have to be air cooled. The dirty condensor blocks the air flow -- both to
the condensor and the air over the fan. Both result in higher temperatures.
That's how I view it, just wanted to see if anyone else saw that kind of
thing in the real world. Thanks.


Whenever I service a unit that has one of those unit bearing motors, I
check the free movement of the bearing. I often drill a 1/8" hole in
the bearing cover so I can re-oil the felt in the housing. The oil frees
up the bearing giving the motor much more life. A bit of silver duct
tape over the little hole is a good idea. ^_^

TDD

I've had a few moments when the screws that hold the fan bracket are rotted
and won't come out. In that case, I take a hammer and slotted screw driver,
and knock the aluminum back off. Spray some cleaner (brake cleaner or carb
cleaner) to flush the bearing, and then reoil. It's totally crude, but it
delays having to swap out the box.

Been meaning to buy a yellow ink pen like the junk yards do, and date the
motors when I install them.
--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

Whenever I service a unit that has one of those unit bearing motors, I
check the free movement of the bearing. I often drill a 1/8" hole in
the bearing cover so I can re-oil the felt in the housing. The oil frees
up the bearing giving the motor much more life. A bit of silver duct
tape over the little hole is a good idea. ^_^

TDD

On 12/12/2011 7:58 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've had a few moments when the screws that hold the fan bracket are rotted
and won't come out. In that case, I take a hammer and slotted screw driver,
and knock the aluminum back off. Spray some cleaner (brake cleaner or carb
cleaner) to flush the bearing, and then reoil. It's totally crude, but it
delays having to swap out the box.

Been meaning to buy a yellow ink pen like the junk yards do, and date the
motors when I install them.

You don't have to knock the back off, the little hole and some turbine
oil has always worked for me. You don't have to use solvents, the
turbine oil is light enough to penetrate the bearing and extend the life
of the motor. The felt in the reservoir soaks oil right up and will hold
it without leaking unless the seal on the cap is damaged
and the drilled oil hole is not sealed.

TDD

I may try that. The times I can't get the fan out, I could drill the edge of
the cover, but can't get at the flat side.

For me, it seems that knock the back off is easier than drilling. I've got
the hammer and screw driver on hand, the drill and foil tape are in the van.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

You don't have to knock the back off, the little hole and some turbine
oil has always worked for me. You don't have to use solvents, the
turbine oil is light enough to penetrate the bearing and extend the life
of the motor. The felt in the reservoir soaks oil right up and will hold
it without leaking unless the seal on the cap is damaged
and the drilled oil hole is not sealed.

TDD

On 12/12/2011 11:47 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I may try that. The times I can't get the fan out, I could drill the edge of
the cover, but can't get at the flat side.

For me, it seems that knock the back off is easier than drilling. I've got
the hammer and screw driver on hand, the drill and foil tape are in the van.


If you can get a syringe, a very tiny hole will do for injecting oil. I
do it all the time with all sorts of motors. I lube the small muffin
fans in computers with a tiny oiler after carefully pealing up the label
on the fan.

TDD

Now, that's a good idea. Syringe would allow for a much smaller hole. NYS
just took syringes off the prescription list, so now commoners like me (age
18 and up) can buy them.

I use syringe to put marine grease into electrical contacts. Plug and socket
kind of connections (refrigeration thermstats, etc) I found that Noalox
corrodes contacts. Dielectric grease works, also. Bench grinder and make the
tip of the metal tube flat. Less likely to stab myself.

I've also oiled muffin fans. First one I did, I sliced the label with a
razor. Later, I figured out how to peel them. Amazing what a drop of zoom
spout will do.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...

If you can get a syringe, a very tiny hole will do for injecting oil. I
do it all the time with all sorts of motors. I lube the small muffin
fans in computers with a tiny oiler after carefully pealing up the label
on the fan.

TDD

On Mon, 12 Dec 2011 17:03:48 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Now, that's a good idea. Syringe would allow for a much smaller hole. NYS
just took syringes off the prescription list, so now commoners like me (age
18 and up) can buy them.

I use syringe to put marine grease into electrical contacts. Plug and socket
kind of connections (refrigeration thermstats, etc) I found that Noalox
corrodes contacts. Dielectric grease works, also. Bench grinder and make the
tip of the metal tube flat. Less likely to stab myself.

Go to your local ink-jet refill emporium and buy the blunt needle used
for refilling ink-jet cartridges.

I've also oiled muffin fans. First one I did, I sliced the label with a
razor. Later, I figured out how to peel them. Amazing what a drop of zoom
spout will do.

Good one! I'd not have thought of that. Thank you.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 12 Dec 2011 17:03:48 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:


I use syringe to put marine grease into electrical contacts. Plug and
socket
kind of connections (refrigeration thermstats, etc) I found that Noalox
corrodes contacts. Dielectric grease works, also. Bench grinder and make
the
tip of the metal tube flat. Less likely to stab myself.

Go to your local ink-jet refill emporium and buy the blunt needle used
for refilling ink-jet cartridges.