I am finally adding a screened porch to the rancher here in Maryland,
and it may become a 3 season room someday. The porch will be 30"
above grade, so I'll have footers, 8" block, and fill. I'm having
this professionally done.

They will cap with 8" shoe block, fill with #7 stone, foam board
insulation (outer edge) and 6 mill poly plastic for vapor barrier.
Concrete will be 4" thick, 3500 psi, with fiber. They will use 1/2
inch rebar and wire reinforced.

The existing house (30 years old) foundation (block) only comes up
about 12" above grade. I plan to ask him to replace the t1-11 siding
on the house with 6" block where the new patio meets under the sliding
glass door. Make sense? If not possible, do I use OSB and flashing?

Some of the new porch will be up against the existing brick chimney.
Does this need to be tied together, or is an expansion joint better?

Lastly, we want to stain the concrete. We can have it pre-stained and
poured for one solid color, or a broadcast die added after the pour.
The other option (which SWMBO prefers) is the acid stain 28 days later
- from the internet pics these look to be the nicest floors. Any
experience here? I hard fiberglass may show up when doing the acid
stain, so we shold leave that out.

Ok -anyone with experience or expertise, let me hear it. I want to do
this the right way, one time.

Thanks!

On Nov 9, 10:33*am, paulaner wrote:
I am finally adding a screened porch to the rancher here in Maryland,
and it may become a 3 season room someday. *The porch will be 30"
above grade, so I'll have footers, 8" block, and fill. *I'm having
this professionally done.

They will cap with 8" shoe block, fill with #7 stone, foam board
insulation (outer edge) and 6 mill poly plastic for vapor barrier.
Concrete will be 4" thick, 3500 psi, with fiber. *They will use 1/2
inch rebar and wire reinforced.

The existing house (30 years old) foundation (block) only comes up
about 12" above grade. *I plan to ask him to replace the t1-11 siding
on the house with 6" block where the new patio meets under the sliding
glass door. *Make sense? *If not possible, do I use OSB and flashing?

Some of the new porch will be up against the existing brick chimney.
Does this need to be tied together, or is an expansion joint better?


I'd go with the expansion joint material used on sidewalks and
similar. Those two will always move slightly, each on their own, and
that way there is room for movement without cracking.,





Lastly, we want to stain the concrete. *We can have it pre-stained and
poured for one solid color, or a broadcast die added after the pour.
The other option (which SWMBO prefers) is the acid stain 28 days later
- from the internet pics these look to be the nicest floors. *Any
experience here? *I hard fiberglass may show up when doing the acid
stain, so we shold leave that out.

Ok -anyone with experience or expertise, let me hear it. *I want to do
this the right way, one time.

Thanks!

I had stamped concrete done on my outside patio about 15 years ago.
Even the guy that installed it told the truth, which is that over time
the
top layer with the coloring eventually sucumbs to the elements. It
held
up for about 10 years, then it got to the point that I had to just
paint
over it with concrete paint. It still looks pretty good though. But
now
it's a uniform grey color. When originally done, it was stamped to
look
like gray stone, so there was color variation, which you don't have
when
painted.

But since yours will be enclosed, I think stamped concrete could be
a viable choice. You can get it in a wide variety of patterns, from
cobble stone, to brick, or store. It should last a very long time
being
shielded frrom the elements. Also, you do need to reseal it
periodically.
Outside I can get 2-3 years. Inside, again it should last a lot
longer and
it's not hard to reseal. I'd go with the solvent based sealer, both
for the
initial install and later too, if you can get it. Many states now ban
it
because of the VOC issues. It looks better and lasts a lot longer
than
the acrylic ones. I'd also ask about how many control joints they are
going to put in. I'd definitely have one in the 16ft direction and
probably
one in the 12ft direction as well. Better to have that, than to have
it
crack randomly later.

But I'd also consider and price out going with just regular concrete
and then
tiling over it as another option.

paulaner wrote:

Lastly, we want to stain the concrete. We can have it pre-stained and
poured for one solid color, or a broadcast die added after the pour.
The other option (which SWMBO prefers) is the acid stain 28 days later
- from the internet pics these look to be the nicest floors. Any
experience here? I hard fiberglass may show up when doing the acid
stain, so we shold leave that out.

My experiences coloring concrete are minimal but for what it's worth...

1. Acid staining can look GREAT!...varying colors...patterns...swirly stuff.
My father in law did it to his shop maybe 15 years ago (solid color, nothing
fancy). I used poly paint. Mine is probably more worn looking but not
much.

2. Broadcast dye. Don't do it. It *WILL* wear off. Even color through
will eventually wear and expose the aggregate in the concrete but it is lots
better than a topical coating.

3. If you want permanent and like the look, consider quarry tile on top. Not
all that expensive and an easy DIY project. Another possibility is
terrazzo; definitely not a DIY thing.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 10:33:50 -0500, paulaner wrote:

Lastly, we want to stain the concrete. We can have it pre-stained and
poured for one solid color, or a broadcast die added after the pour.
The other option (which SWMBO prefers) is the acid stain 28 days later
- from the internet pics these look to be the nicest floors. Any
experience here? I hard fiberglass may show up when doing the acid
stain, so we shold leave that out.

Who will add the die to the concrete and will this be a single mix?
Brought to you in a concrete truck. Mixing small batches with die is
difficult. One solid pour of the pad, die mixed and delivered is the
best choice. You can have it stamped in various patterns.

Youtube has some videos of DIY staining using hand sprayers.

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 12:54:29 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 10:33:50 -0500, paulaner wrote:

Lastly, we want to stain the concrete. We can have it pre-stained and
poured for one solid color, or a broadcast die added after the pour.
The other option (which SWMBO prefers) is the acid stain 28 days later
- from the internet pics these look to be the nicest floors. Any
experience here? I hard fiberglass may show up when doing the acid
stain, so we shold leave that out.

Who will add the die to the concrete and will this be a single mix?
Brought to you in a concrete truck. Mixing small batches with die is
difficult. One solid pour of the pad, die mixed and delivered is the
best choice. You can have it stamped in various patterns.

Youtube has some videos of DIY staining using hand sprayers.

If I go with "Integral Color" I assume it comes in the truck that way
as a single mix - I will ask. Thanks.

On Wed, 9 Nov 2011 08:00:44 -0800 (PST), "
wrote:

On Nov 9, 10:33*am, paulaner wrote:
I am finally adding a screened porch to the rancher here in Maryland,
and it may become a 3 season room someday. *The porch will be 30"
above grade, so I'll have footers, 8" block, and fill. *I'm having
this professionally done.

They will cap with 8" shoe block, fill with #7 stone, foam board
insulation (outer edge) and 6 mill poly plastic for vapor barrier.
Concrete will be 4" thick, 3500 psi, with fiber. *They will use 1/2
inch rebar and wire reinforced.

The existing house (30 years old) foundation (block) only comes up
about 12" above grade. *I plan to ask him to replace the t1-11 siding
on the house with 6" block where the new patio meets under the sliding
glass door. *Make sense? *If not possible, do I use OSB and flashing?

Some of the new porch will be up against the existing brick chimney.
Does this need to be tied together, or is an expansion joint better?


I'd go with the expansion joint material used on sidewalks and
similar. Those two will always move slightly, each on their own, and
that way there is room for movement without cracking.,


I agree with you on this.



Lastly, we want to stain the concrete. *We can have it pre-stained and
poured for one solid color, or a broadcast die added after the pour.
The other option (which SWMBO prefers) is the acid stain 28 days later
- from the internet pics these look to be the nicest floors. *Any
experience here? *I hard fiberglass may show up when doing the acid
stain, so we shold leave that out.

Ok -anyone with experience or expertise, let me hear it. *I want to do
this the right way, one time.

Thanks!

I had stamped concrete done on my outside patio about 15 years ago.
Even the guy that installed it told the truth, which is that over time
the
top layer with the coloring eventually sucumbs to the elements. It
held
up for about 10 years, then it got to the point that I had to just
paint
over it with concrete paint. It still looks pretty good though. But
now
it's a uniform grey color. When originally done, it was stamped to
look
like gray stone, so there was color variation, which you don't have
when
painted.

But since yours will be enclosed, I think stamped concrete could be
a viable choice. You can get it in a wide variety of patterns, from
cobble stone, to brick, or store. It should last a very long time
being
shielded frrom the elements. Also, you do need to reseal it
periodically.
Outside I can get 2-3 years. Inside, again it should last a lot
longer and
it's not hard to reseal. I'd go with the solvent based sealer, both
for the
initial install and later too, if you can get it. Many states now ban
it
because of the VOC issues. It looks better and lasts a lot longer
than
the acrylic ones. I'd also ask about how many control joints they are
going to put in. I'd definitely have one in the 16ft direction and
probably
one in the 12ft direction as well. Better to have that, than to have
it
crack randomly later.

I'll ask about the control joints. I don't think the wife wants a
patttern in there, but if there are joints maybe it will help hide
them. The sealer he quoted is solvent based (can't be used in
California).
But I'd also consider and price out going with just regular concrete
and then
tiling over it as another option.

If it becomes a 3 season room, it may get a heating wire and tile
someday.

Thanks for your thoughts.

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 12:18:55 -0500, wrote:

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 10:33:50 -0500, paulaner wrote:

I am finally adding a screened porch to the rancher here in Maryland,
and it may become a 3 season room someday. The porch will be 30"
above grade, so I'll have footers, 8" block, and fill. I'm having
this professionally done.

They will cap with 8" shoe block, fill with #7 stone, foam board
insulation (outer edge) and 6 mill poly plastic for vapor barrier.
Concrete will be 4" thick, 3500 psi, with fiber. They will use 1/2
inch rebar and wire reinforced.

The existing house (30 years old) foundation (block) only comes up
about 12" above grade. I plan to ask him to replace the t1-11 siding
on the house with 6" block where the new patio meets under the sliding
glass door. Make sense? If not possible, do I use OSB and flashing?

Some of the new porch will be up against the existing brick chimney.
Does this need to be tied together, or is an expansion joint better?

Lastly, we want to stain the concrete. We can have it pre-stained and
poured for one solid color, or a broadcast die added after the pour.
The other option (which SWMBO prefers) is the acid stain 28 days later
- from the internet pics these look to be the nicest floors. Any
experience here? I hard fiberglass may show up when doing the acid
stain, so we shold leave that out.

Ok -anyone with experience or expertise, let me hear it. I want to do
this the right way, one time.

Thanks!

I did acid stain on my driveway and it is holding up well. Inside you
will be putting a heavy sealer on it to get that marble effect you see
in the pictures. That finish will be as durable as the quality of the
sealer and you may be resealing after a few years.
The actual acid staining is not hard to do but it is nasty stuff so be
sure to use the proper PPE and an acid rated sprayer. You want this
done before you have any finish items in the room since it will stain
everything it hits. Mask your brick work with plastic. It will eat
right through rosin paper.

One option is hold off on the framing and do the acid stain 30 days
after the pour. that pushes this project into December or January -
brrr.

On Wed, 9 Nov 2011 15:31:30 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

paulaner wrote:

Lastly, we want to stain the concrete. We can have it pre-stained and
poured for one solid color, or a broadcast die added after the pour.
The other option (which SWMBO prefers) is the acid stain 28 days later
- from the internet pics these look to be the nicest floors. Any
experience here? I hard fiberglass may show up when doing the acid
stain, so we shold leave that out.

My experiences coloring concrete are minimal but for what it's worth...

1. Acid staining can look GREAT!...varying colors...patterns...swirly stuff.
My father in law did it to his shop maybe 15 years ago (solid color, nothing
fancy). I used poly paint. Mine is probably more worn looking but not
much.

2. Broadcast dye. Don't do it. It *WILL* wear off. Even color through
will eventually wear and expose the aggregate in the concrete but it is lots
better than a topical coating.

I was planning on putting down a "solvent-borne" sealer. It says its
developed for curing and sealing freshly placed concrete... where a
clear matte or gloss based finish is desired. I was hoping this would
help.

3. If you want permanent and like the look, consider quarry tile on top. Not
all that expensive and an easy DIY project. Another possibility is
terrazzo; definitely not a DIY thing.

Yep - tile is in the future at some point.

Thanks for your thoughts.

On Nov 9, 5:26*pm, paulaner wrote:
On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 12:54:29 -0800, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 10:33:50 -0500, paulaner wrote:

Lastly, we want to stain the concrete. *We can have it pre-stained and
poured for one solid color, or a broadcast die added after the pour.
The other option (which SWMBO prefers) is the acid stain 28 days later
- from the internet pics these look to be the nicest floors. *Any
experience here? *I hard fiberglass may show up when doing the acid
stain, so we shold leave that out.

Who will add the die to the concrete and will this be a single mix?
Brought to you in a concrete truck. *Mixing small batches with die is
difficult. *One solid pour of the pad, die mixed and delivered is the
best choice. You can have it stamped in various patterns.

Youtube has some videos of DIY staining using hand sprayers.

If I go with "Integral Color" I assume it comes in the truck that way
as a single mix - I will ask. *Thanks.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

When they did mine the guys added bags of coloring to the
mixer on the concrete truck when it got here.

The solvent based sealer I used and highly recommend is
Kure-n-Seal.

If it becomes a 3 season room, it may get a heating wire and tile
someday.

you could just install radiant line as part of initial install, then
add the heat source later if it needs it

paulaner wrote:

The porch will be 30" above grade, so I'll have footers, 8" block,
and fill. I'm having this professionally done.

They will cap with 8" shoe block, fill with #7 stone, foam board
insulation (outer edge) and 6 mill poly plastic for vapor barrier.
Concrete will be 4" thick, 3500 psi, with fiber. They will use 1/2
inch rebar and wire reinforced.

Is this going to be a concrete pad-on-grade, or is there some sort of
crawl-space under it?

What is the size (length x width) of the pad?

I'm trying to figure out if 4" is thick enough for a concrete pad
(floor) over a crawlspace, or (if this is pad-on-grade) why you are
building it like it's going to be loaded like a driveway (fiber + rebar
+ wire). ?

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 08:15:49 -0500, Home Guy wrote:

paulaner wrote:

The porch will be 30" above grade, so I'll have footers, 8" block,
and fill. I'm having this professionally done.

They will cap with 8" shoe block, fill with #7 stone, foam board
insulation (outer edge) and 6 mill poly plastic for vapor barrier.
Concrete will be 4" thick, 3500 psi, with fiber. They will use 1/2
inch rebar and wire reinforced.

Is this going to be a concrete pad-on-grade, or is there some sort of
crawl-space under it?

What is the size (length x width) of the pad?

I'm trying to figure out if 4" is thick enough for a concrete pad
(floor) over a crawlspace, or (if this is pad-on-grade) why you are
building it like it's going to be loaded like a driveway (fiber + rebar
+ wire). ?

It's 12x16, and about 30" up. We will do footers to code, 8" block,
and fill with stone. No crawl space.

I don't ever want to see a crack in this thing. We get lots of
temperature swings in Maryland.

I think we will be skipping the fiberglass because we plan to do the
acid stain. I heard that the fiberglass can sometimes be seen in the
stain, so that's out.

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 04:34:54 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:



If it becomes a 3 season room, it may get a heating wire and tile
someday.

you could just install radiant line as part of initial install, then
add the heat source later if it needs it

I could, but that wire is expensive. It might add another $1000 to
the job. If I take that on a few years from now it might be easier on
the wallet.

On Nov 11, 1:39*pm, paulaner wrote:
On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 04:34:54 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:



If it becomes a 3 season room, it may get a heating wire and tile
someday.

you could just install radiant line as part of initial install, then
add the heat source later if it needs it

I could, but that wire is expensive. *It might add another $1000 to
the job. *If I take that on a few years from now it might be easier on
the wallet.

I was thinking more of a buried in concrete PEX line, connected at
some point in the future to a water heater and controls

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 08:15:49 -0500, Home Guy wrote:


What is the size (length x width) of the pad?

Um, in the subject line. Or use Japanese arithmetic.

On Fri, 11 Nov 2011 15:46:55 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 08:15:49 -0500, Home Guy wrote:


What is the size (length x width) of the pad?

Um, in the subject line.

Inscrutable.

Or use Japanese arithmetic.

See!

paulaner wrote:

It's 12x16, and about 30" up. We will do footers to code, 8" block,
and fill with stone. No crawl space.

I don't ever want to see a crack in this thing. We get lots of
temperature swings in Maryland.

Well 12' x 16' isn't very big but concrete *does* crack so make sure your
footers are done well and that the fill is very well compacted. I don't
know if a footer across the middle would help or not but it wouldn't cost
much.

I think we will be skipping the fiberglass because we plan to do the
acid stain.

You mentioned that tile was in the future; that being the case, I wouldn't
seal the concrete.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Fri, 11 Nov 2011 10:43:14 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

On Nov 11, 1:39*pm, paulaner wrote:
On Thu, 10 Nov 2011 04:34:54 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:



If it becomes a 3 season room, it may get a heating wire and tile
someday.

you could just install radiant line as part of initial install, then
add the heat source later if it needs it

I could, but that wire is expensive. *It might add another $1000 to
the job. *If I take that on a few years from now it might be easier on
the wallet.

I was thinking more of a buried in concrete PEX line, connected at
some point in the future to a water heater and controls

Gotcha. If I was to install a boiler someday in the utility room,
it's pretty far away from the porch. I think electric with a timer
would be a nice solution. I did that in my basement office and really
like it.

On Wed, 09 Nov 2011 10:33:50 -0500, paulaner wrote:

I am finally adding a screened porch to the rancher here in Maryland,
and it may become a 3 season room someday. The porch will be 30"
above grade, so I'll have footers, 8" block, and fill. I'm having
this professionally done.

They will cap with 8" shoe block, fill with #7 stone, foam board
insulation (outer edge) and 6 mill poly plastic for vapor barrier.
Concrete will be 4" thick, 3500 psi, with fiber. They will use 1/2
inch rebar and wire reinforced.

The existing house (30 years old) foundation (block) only comes up
about 12" above grade. I plan to ask him to replace the t1-11 siding
on the house with 6" block where the new patio meets under the sliding
glass door. Make sense? If not possible, do I use OSB and flashing?

Some of the new porch will be up against the existing brick chimney.
Does this need to be tied together, or is an expansion joint better?

Lastly, we want to stain the concrete. We can have it pre-stained and
poured for one solid color, or a broadcast die added after the pour.
The other option (which SWMBO prefers) is the acid stain 28 days later
- from the internet pics these look to be the nicest floors. Any
experience here? I hard fiberglass may show up when doing the acid
stain, so we shold leave that out.

Ok -anyone with experience or expertise, let me hear it. I want to do
this the right way, one time.

Thanks!

First estimate for the concrete job is nearly $8.5k. I like the guy,
and he comes with a good referral from a neighbor, but that seems a
bit high to me. The area is accessible by excavator and bobcat, not
far from the street. I already have the permit. There isn't any demo
work to be done. Seems like straightforward job. I guess I need a
2nd estimate.

paulaner wrote:

First estimate for the concrete job is nearly $8.5k. I like the guy,
and he comes with a good referral from a neighbor, but that seems a
bit high to me.

GASP!! OK, I'm old, I live in the past when a buck bought something,
everything seems high to me but GASP again.

When we built our house in central Florida in late 1995, dug footers were
$1.00/foot (plus concrete). The footer and slab concrete and finishing
(helicopters) was just about $9,000 for 4800 sq.ft. Fill not included; nor
is the (minimal) block to adjust foundation for slope of the land Ready mix
was about $50/yard.

Now, here, add 40% for inflation; maybe a bit more, concrete may have gone
up more. OTOH, people are crying for work.


I guess I need a 2nd estimate.


Well, at $44.27 per square foot I'd be getting one. Probably several.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

paulaner wrote:

First estimate for the concrete job is nearly $8.5k.

Your slab will take something like 2.4 cubic yards of concrete (if it
really is going to be 4" thick).

The going rate for concrete is about $150 per cubic yard, maybe up to
$200 if you ask for pigment or fiber.

So the cost of the concrete shouldn't run you more than $450 to $500.

Your quote must be chock-full of preparation work, excavation, fill,
tamping, form setup, floating, etc.

The rebar will probably cost an extra few hundred bucks.

If you can do some, most or all the setup yourself (including buy and
set up the rebar yourself, forms, etc) then your price will come down
considerably.

On Sat, 12 Nov 2011 12:46:48 -0500, paulaner wrote:

First estimate for the concrete job is nearly $8.5k.

Go back to the drawing board.

Tell the guy you don't want to buy the company!

Home Guy wrote:

If you can do some, most or all the setup yourself (including buy and
set up the rebar yourself, forms, etc) then your price will come down
considerably.

Not if uses the same company. Evidently.

On Sat, 12 Nov 2011 14:17:15 -0500, Home Guy wrote:

paulaner wrote:

First estimate for the concrete job is nearly $8.5k.

Your slab will take something like 2.4 cubic yards of concrete (if it
really is going to be 4" thick).

The going rate for concrete is about $150 per cubic yard, maybe up to
$200 if you ask for pigment or fiber.

So the cost of the concrete shouldn't run you more than $450 to $500.

Your quote must be chock-full of preparation work, excavation, fill,
tamping, form setup, floating, etc.

The rebar will probably cost an extra few hundred bucks.

If you can do some, most or all the setup yourself (including buy and
set up the rebar yourself, forms, etc) then your price will come down
considerably.

Thanks for confirming the crazy pricing (Home Guy, HeyBub, Oren, and
gfretwell). I live in a 100+ year old community with nice houses,
some waterfront, so I think these guys multiply their quotes by 2 or 3
times. It's really frustrating.

I found someone with experience to give me a hand, so it looks like I
will be doing a lot of the work myself. I can dig, tamp, call the
county inspector, order material, etc. He can lay block, etc.

I'll keep folks posted on the progress.

On Sat, 12 Nov 2011 12:46:48 -0500, paulaner wrote:

First estimate for the concrete job is nearly $8.5k. I like the guy,
and he comes with a good referral from a neighbor, but that seems a
bit high to me. The area is accessible by excavator and bobcat, not
far from the street. I already have the permit. There isn't any demo
work to be done. Seems like straightforward job. I guess I need a
2nd estimate.

So far I'm doing the slab myself with help from a knowledgeable
contractor.

I dug the footers last weekend, 32" deep. Actually got my teenage
boys to put down the video games and help. It took about 10 hours I
think.

Submitted for inspection via web site on Monday (easy!) and passed
inspection yesterday. The inspector wants the rebar in the footers
to punch into the house foundation.

Then came all the rain. Even with tarps everywhere there was some
collapse. I used an old boat sump pump to drain out a bunch of the
water. I'll be digging out some again.

I will let the new moat dry out over Thanksgiving, then go shopping on
black Friday for 2 yards of concrete (already reserved). The plan is
to take a couple runs from the local rental works with a concrete
cart. These carts can hold up to a yard and I should need about 2
yards according to the online calculators. I'll use child labor again
for the wheelbarrow runs from driveway to back yard.

The 8" block, 4" cap, mortar and sand arrived today. If I'm lucky the
contractor and I will do 5 courses over the weekend. So far I've
spent about $1100.

On 11/23/2011 8:02 AM, paulaner wrote:
On Sat, 12 Nov 2011 12:46:48 -0500, paulaner wrote:

First estimate for the concrete job is nearly $8.5k. I like the guy,
and he comes with a good referral from a neighbor, but that seems a
bit high to me. The area is accessible by excavator and bobcat, not
far from the street. I already have the permit. There isn't any demo
work to be done. Seems like straightforward job. I guess I need a
2nd estimate.

So far I'm doing the slab myself with help from a knowledgeable
contractor.

I dug the footers last weekend, 32" deep. Actually got my teenage
boys to put down the video games and help. It took about 10 hours I
think.

it would have taken longer than 10 hours to convince my kids to help, so
good on you for such a short time to convince yours.


Submitted for inspection via web site on Monday (easy!) and passed
inspection yesterday. The inspector wants the rebar in the footers
to punch into the house foundation.

Then came all the rain. Even with tarps everywhere there was some
collapse. I used an old boat sump pump to drain out a bunch of the
water. I'll be digging out some again.

I will let the new moat dry out over Thanksgiving, then go shopping on
black Friday for 2 yards of concrete (already reserved). The plan is
to take a couple runs from the local rental works with a concrete
cart. These carts can hold up to a yard and I should need about 2
yards according to the online calculators. I'll use child labor again
for the wheelbarrow runs from driveway to back yard.

The 8" block, 4" cap, mortar and sand arrived today. If I'm lucky the
contractor and I will do 5 courses over the weekend. So far I've
spent about $1100.

chaniarts unnecessarily full-quoted:

it would have taken longer than 10 hours to convince my kids to help

So you raised them such that they have little or no respect for you or
your authority as a father and parent. That equals failure in my book.

On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:17:50 -0500, Home Guy wrote:

chaniarts unnecessarily full-quoted:

it would have taken longer than 10 hours to convince my kids to help

So you raised them such that they have little or no respect for you or
your authority as a father and parent. That equals failure in my book.

You steal movies off the Internet and then call someone a failure?

Right!

On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:02:13 -0500, paulaner wrote:

On Sat, 12 Nov 2011 12:46:48 -0500, paulaner wrote:

First estimate for the concrete job is nearly $8.5k. I like the guy,
and he comes with a good referral from a neighbor, but that seems a
bit high to me. The area is accessible by excavator and bobcat, not
far from the street. I already have the permit. There isn't any demo
work to be done. Seems like straightforward job. I guess I need a
2nd estimate.

So far I'm doing the slab myself with help from a knowledgeable
contractor.

I dug the footers last weekend, 32" deep. Actually got my teenage
boys to put down the video games and help. It took about 10 hours I
think.

Submitted for inspection via web site on Monday (easy!) and passed
inspection yesterday. The inspector wants the rebar in the footers
to punch into the house foundation.

Then came all the rain. Even with tarps everywhere there was some
collapse. I used an old boat sump pump to drain out a bunch of the
water. I'll be digging out some again.

I will let the new moat dry out over Thanksgiving, then go shopping on
black Friday for 2 yards of concrete (already reserved). The plan is
to take a couple runs from the local rental works with a concrete
cart. These carts can hold up to a yard and I should need about 2
yards according to the online calculators. I'll use child labor again
for the wheelbarrow runs from driveway to back yard.

The 8" block, 4" cap, mortar and sand arrived today. If I'm lucky the
contractor and I will do 5 courses over the weekend. So far I've
spent about $1100.


For those who need to know someday...

It took about $5k to make this happen:

$1100 - cinder block, concrete, sand, rebar, insulation (rigid foam)
$500 - two yards concrete for footers (rental center trailers)
$1100 - 5 yards fill dirt & gravel, delivered and bobcat (with
operator) to move it
$900 - 5 yards concrete for slab delivered via mixer truck
$400 - bobcat (with operator) to move the 5 yards
$1000 - misc stuff and paid to my helpers for labor

I used tarps and hay as insulation while it cured for a week (a
couples nights went below freezing). The hay was handy because I
needed to spread it out over the bobcat tracks in the yard afterwards.

On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 17:59:56 -0500, paulaner wrote:

On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:02:13 -0500, paulaner wrote:

On Sat, 12 Nov 2011 12:46:48 -0500, paulaner wrote:

First estimate for the concrete job is nearly $8.5k. I like the guy,
and he comes with a good referral from a neighbor, but that seems a
bit high to me. The area is accessible by excavator and bobcat, not
far from the street. I already have the permit. There isn't any demo
work to be done. Seems like straightforward job. I guess I need a
2nd estimate.

So far I'm doing the slab myself with help from a knowledgeable
contractor.

I dug the footers last weekend, 32" deep. Actually got my teenage
boys to put down the video games and help. It took about 10 hours I
think.

Submitted for inspection via web site on Monday (easy!) and passed
inspection yesterday. The inspector wants the rebar in the footers
to punch into the house foundation.

Then came all the rain. Even with tarps everywhere there was some
collapse. I used an old boat sump pump to drain out a bunch of the
water. I'll be digging out some again.

I will let the new moat dry out over Thanksgiving, then go shopping on
black Friday for 2 yards of concrete (already reserved). The plan is
to take a couple runs from the local rental works with a concrete
cart. These carts can hold up to a yard and I should need about 2
yards according to the online calculators. I'll use child labor again
for the wheelbarrow runs from driveway to back yard.

The 8" block, 4" cap, mortar and sand arrived today. If I'm lucky the
contractor and I will do 5 courses over the weekend. So far I've
spent about $1100.


For those who need to know someday...

It took about $5k to make this happen:

$1100 - cinder block, concrete, sand, rebar, insulation (rigid foam)
$500 - two yards concrete for footers (rental center trailers)
$1100 - 5 yards fill dirt & gravel, delivered and bobcat (with
operator) to move it
$900 - 5 yards concrete for slab delivered via mixer truck
$400 - bobcat (with operator) to move the 5 yards
$1000 - misc stuff and paid to my helpers for labor

I used tarps and hay as insulation while it cured for a week (a
couples nights went below freezing). The hay was handy because I
needed to spread it out over the bobcat tracks in the yard afterwards.

Was the stain included?

Mixed in the concrete or surfaced stained...

On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 17:59:56 -0500, paulaner wrote:

On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:02:13 -0500, paulaner wrote:

On Sat, 12 Nov 2011 12:46:48 -0500, paulaner wrote:

First estimate for the concrete job is nearly $8.5k. I like the guy,
and he comes with a good referral from a neighbor, but that seems a
bit high to me. The area is accessible by excavator and bobcat, not
far from the street. I already have the permit. There isn't any demo
work to be done. Seems like straightforward job. I guess I need a
2nd estimate.

So far I'm doing the slab myself with help from a knowledgeable
contractor.

I dug the footers last weekend, 32" deep. Actually got my teenage
boys to put down the video games and help. It took about 10 hours I
think.

Submitted for inspection via web site on Monday (easy!) and passed
inspection yesterday. The inspector wants the rebar in the footers
to punch into the house foundation.

Then came all the rain. Even with tarps everywhere there was some
collapse. I used an old boat sump pump to drain out a bunch of the
water. I'll be digging out some again.

I will let the new moat dry out over Thanksgiving, then go shopping on
black Friday for 2 yards of concrete (already reserved). The plan is
to take a couple runs from the local rental works with a concrete
cart. These carts can hold up to a yard and I should need about 2
yards according to the online calculators. I'll use child labor again
for the wheelbarrow runs from driveway to back yard.

The 8" block, 4" cap, mortar and sand arrived today. If I'm lucky the
contractor and I will do 5 courses over the weekend. So far I've
spent about $1100.


For those who need to know someday...

It took about $5k to make this happen:

$1100 - cinder block, concrete, sand, rebar, insulation (rigid foam)
$500 - two yards concrete for footers (rental center trailers)
$1100 - 5 yards fill dirt & gravel, delivered and bobcat (with
operator) to move it
$900 - 5 yards concrete for slab delivered via mixer truck
$400 - bobcat (with operator) to move the 5 yards
$1000 - misc stuff and paid to my helpers for labor

I used tarps and hay as insulation while it cured for a week (a
couples nights went below freezing). The hay was handy because I
needed to spread it out over the bobcat tracks in the yard afterwards.


Thanks for that.
What are the finished dimensions and how high off the ground?
Poured steps? Any railings?
What's the cinder block for?
I've been thinking about replacing my 3-step front stoop.
It's about 7 x 5, not counting steps, all poured concrete I think.
Nearly 3' high at the front door.
Want to make it bigger, maybe 12 x 6.
Much smaller than your job.
But I'll need a new awning too.

--Vic

On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 15:33:26 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 17:59:56 -0500, paulaner wrote:

On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:02:13 -0500, paulaner wrote:

On Sat, 12 Nov 2011 12:46:48 -0500, paulaner wrote:

First estimate for the concrete job is nearly $8.5k. I like the guy,
and he comes with a good referral from a neighbor, but that seems a
bit high to me. The area is accessible by excavator and bobcat, not
far from the street. I already have the permit. There isn't any demo
work to be done. Seems like straightforward job. I guess I need a
2nd estimate.

So far I'm doing the slab myself with help from a knowledgeable
contractor.

I dug the footers last weekend, 32" deep. Actually got my teenage
boys to put down the video games and help. It took about 10 hours I
think.

Submitted for inspection via web site on Monday (easy!) and passed
inspection yesterday. The inspector wants the rebar in the footers
to punch into the house foundation.

Then came all the rain. Even with tarps everywhere there was some
collapse. I used an old boat sump pump to drain out a bunch of the
water. I'll be digging out some again.

I will let the new moat dry out over Thanksgiving, then go shopping on
black Friday for 2 yards of concrete (already reserved). The plan is
to take a couple runs from the local rental works with a concrete
cart. These carts can hold up to a yard and I should need about 2
yards according to the online calculators. I'll use child labor again
for the wheelbarrow runs from driveway to back yard.

The 8" block, 4" cap, mortar and sand arrived today. If I'm lucky the
contractor and I will do 5 courses over the weekend. So far I've
spent about $1100.


For those who need to know someday...

It took about $5k to make this happen:

$1100 - cinder block, concrete, sand, rebar, insulation (rigid foam)
$500 - two yards concrete for footers (rental center trailers)
$1100 - 5 yards fill dirt & gravel, delivered and bobcat (with
operator) to move it
$900 - 5 yards concrete for slab delivered via mixer truck
$400 - bobcat (with operator) to move the 5 yards
$1000 - misc stuff and paid to my helpers for labor

I used tarps and hay as insulation while it cured for a week (a
couples nights went below freezing). The hay was handy because I
needed to spread it out over the bobcat tracks in the yard afterwards.

Was the stain included?

Mixed in the concrete or surfaced stained...


We plan to go with an acid stain. The concrete will need to cure for
at least 30 days before we can apply it. Since it's so cold here now,
I think it's best to do that in the spring. I'll post a picture or
two after I do that part.

On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 17:38:30 -0600, Vic Smith
wrote:

On Tue, 17 Jan 2012 17:59:56 -0500, paulaner wrote:

On Wed, 23 Nov 2011 10:02:13 -0500, paulaner wrote:

On Sat, 12 Nov 2011 12:46:48 -0500, paulaner wrote:

First estimate for the concrete job is nearly $8.5k. I like the guy,
and he comes with a good referral from a neighbor, but that seems a
bit high to me. The area is accessible by excavator and bobcat, not
far from the street. I already have the permit. There isn't any demo
work to be done. Seems like straightforward job. I guess I need a
2nd estimate.

So far I'm doing the slab myself with help from a knowledgeable
contractor.

I dug the footers last weekend, 32" deep. Actually got my teenage
boys to put down the video games and help. It took about 10 hours I
think.

Submitted for inspection via web site on Monday (easy!) and passed
inspection yesterday. The inspector wants the rebar in the footers
to punch into the house foundation.

Then came all the rain. Even with tarps everywhere there was some
collapse. I used an old boat sump pump to drain out a bunch of the
water. I'll be digging out some again.

I will let the new moat dry out over Thanksgiving, then go shopping on
black Friday for 2 yards of concrete (already reserved). The plan is
to take a couple runs from the local rental works with a concrete
cart. These carts can hold up to a yard and I should need about 2
yards according to the online calculators. I'll use child labor again
for the wheelbarrow runs from driveway to back yard.

The 8" block, 4" cap, mortar and sand arrived today. If I'm lucky the
contractor and I will do 5 courses over the weekend. So far I've
spent about $1100.


For those who need to know someday...

It took about $5k to make this happen:

$1100 - cinder block, concrete, sand, rebar, insulation (rigid foam)
$500 - two yards concrete for footers (rental center trailers)
$1100 - 5 yards fill dirt & gravel, delivered and bobcat (with
operator) to move it
$900 - 5 yards concrete for slab delivered via mixer truck
$400 - bobcat (with operator) to move the 5 yards
$1000 - misc stuff and paid to my helpers for labor

I used tarps and hay as insulation while it cured for a week (a
couples nights went below freezing). The hay was handy because I
needed to spread it out over the bobcat tracks in the yard afterwards.


Thanks for that.
What are the finished dimensions and how high off the ground?
Poured steps? Any railings?
What's the cinder block for?
I've been thinking about replacing my 3-step front stoop.
It's about 7 x 5, not counting steps, all poured concrete I think.
Nearly 3' high at the front door.
Want to make it bigger, maybe 12 x 6.
Much smaller than your job.
But I'll need a new awning too.

--Vic


Mine is about 14' by 16.5' by the time it was done. It's about 30"
off the ground. I went with azak railings, they look and feel good.

The cinder block is my foundation wall along 3 sides. After digging
down 30 inches and pouring the footers, I framed it with 5 courses of
cinder block to raise it up to 30 inches above ground. I filled it
with dirt (compacted) and then about 5 inces of pea gravel. I added a
vapor barrior plastic sheet then layed screen and rebar on top. After
that came all the concrete.

I plan to build steps using paver stones. These are leftovers from
before this project. I hope to make 4 steps at 6" high.