My pool motor is making noise.

Googling, I find the following parts "seem" to be in need of replacing:

- Shaft seal
- Bearings (two) for the motor
- O-ring (for the pump)

Anything else normally replaced when rebuilding a motor?

On 9/6/2011 1:07 PM, Abol wrote:
My pool motor is making noise.

Googling, I find the following parts "seem" to be in need of replacing:

- Shaft seal
- Bearings (two) for the motor
- O-ring (for the pump)

Anything else normally replaced when rebuilding a motor?

Whatever's broke pretty well covers it...

--

On 9/6/2011 11:07 AM, Abol wrote:
My pool motor is making noise.

Googling, I find the following parts "seem" to be in need of replacing:

- Shaft seal
- Bearings (two) for the motor
- O-ring (for the pump)

Anything else normally replaced when rebuilding a motor?

You might want to replace the pump impeller while you have it all apart.
Usually you can buy a kit with all the parts. We have a place in my area
that specializes in repairing pool pumps. For $125 they replace the
bearings, seal, and O-rings.

On Tue, 06 Sep 2011 13:43:47 -0500, dpb wrote:
Whatever's broke pretty well covers it...

Nothing is broken, per se.

Something is making noise (probably the bearings) but the point of the
question is to ask what 'else' is normally replaced, prophylactically,
while you're doing all the work.

It's something only someone familiar with these pump motors would know (and
I'm not familiar enough with them to know what else goes bad that should be
replaced prophylactically).

Thanks,

On Tue, 06 Sep 2011 11:46:10 -0700, SMS wrote:

You might want to replace the pump impeller

Good idea. The impeller is the working element. Only it's not a 'moving'
part per se. I mean, it moves, but, it doesn't have any bearings or other
wearing parts (other than the plastic face itself). Right?

For $125 they replace the bearings, seal, and O-rings.

I googled the AO Smith QC1102 motors and I can get a brand new one for
about double that ... so, if I could get it overhauled for $125 every few
years, that might be a good money saving approach.

But, I'd rather do it myself and save even more.

How hard can it be?

On Sep 6, 5:31*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
Abol wrote:
On Tue, 06 Sep 2011 11:46:10 -0700, SMS wrote:

You might want to replace the pump impeller

Good idea. The impeller is the working element. Only it's not a
'moving' part per se. I mean, it moves, but, it doesn't have any
bearings or other wearing parts (other than the plastic face itself).
Right?

For $125 they replace the bearings, seal, and O-rings.

I googled the AO Smith QC1102 motors and I can get a brand new one for
about double that ... so, if I could get it overhauled for $125 every
few years, that might be a good money saving approach.

But, I'd rather do it myself and save even more.

How hard can it be?

Get bearings and a seal kit. Inspect the impeller but don't expect any problem
there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

He's confusing two parts. A pool motor is just
that, the electric motor. A complete pool pump
includes the motor plus the pump itself. I've
rebuilt the pump part, which is within the
capability of reasoably skilled DIY,
but never the motor part.
For the pump, there are rebuild kits that include
shaft seal, gaskets/o-rings, etc. If it needs a
new impeller can be determined on inspection.

If it's the electric motor that is making the noise,
I'd do a more thorough inspection and see what
condition it's in. You can buy a new one or
possibly take it to a local electric motor shop
for rebuild. Have not done that in a very long time,
not sure of the economics of it today, versus the
cost of a new motor.

Also, if it comes time to replace, consider
a dual speed pump. Essentially they run at
low speed, circulate the water much longer
to move the same amount of water, but
still use like 40% less electricity. Can save
significant $$ on electricity. You would
also need a switch capable of doing 2 speed.
I'd only go with the basic two speed pumps,
not the full variable speed, electronic ones
as they cost so much more, I don't think
they are economically viable.

On Tue, 06 Sep 2011 11:07:40 -0700, Abol wrote:

My pool motor is making noise.

Googling, I find the following parts "seem" to be in need of replacing:

- Shaft seal
- Bearings (two) for the motor

No way of adding fresh grease to the existing bearings and see if that
helps?

cheers

Jules

On 9/7/2011 6:31 AM, wrote:

Also, if it comes time to replace, consider
a dual speed pump. Essentially they run at
low speed, circulate the water much longer
to move the same amount of water, but
still use like 40% less electricity. Can save
significant $$ on electricity. You would
also need a switch capable of doing 2 speed.
I'd only go with the basic two speed pumps,
not the full variable speed, electronic ones
as they cost so much more, I don't think
they are economically viable.

Those variable speed pumps are just insanely priced. The motors don't
draw less current at full speed (in fact they are rated at higher
current) the savings is apparently that you can run them much longer at
the lower speed and the power consumption goes up more than linearly
with speed. The pool store I go to also said that the life of those
pumps is about half what they see on older, single-speed, pumps.

On Wed, 07 Sep 2011 07:09:19 -0700, SMS wrote:

On 9/7/2011 6:31 AM, wrote:

Also, if it comes time to replace, consider
a dual speed pump. Essentially they run at
low speed, circulate the water much longer
to move the same amount of water, but
still use like 40% less electricity. Can save
significant $$ on electricity. You would
also need a switch capable of doing 2 speed.
I'd only go with the basic two speed pumps,
not the full variable speed, electronic ones
as they cost so much more, I don't think
they are economically viable.

Those variable speed pumps are just insanely priced. The motors don't
draw less current at full speed (in fact they are rated at higher
current) the savings is apparently that you can run them much longer at
the lower speed and the power consumption goes up more than linearly
with speed. The pool store I go to also said that the life of those
pumps is about half what they see on older, single-speed, pumps.

What's the point? The rule of thumb I've always heard was that the water
should be "changed" daily. Whether that's done in 8 hours or 24, what's the
difference? I'd think the higher speed jet would mix the water in the pool
better, too.

On 9/7/2011 6:31 AM, wrote:

Also, if it comes time to replace, consider
a dual speed pump. Essentially they run at
low speed, circulate the water much longer
to move the same amount of water, but
still use like 40% less electricity. Can save
significant $$ on electricity. You would
also need a switch capable of doing 2 speed.
I'd only go with the basic two speed pumps,
not the full variable speed, electronic ones
as they cost so much more, I don't think
they are economically viable.

You can also wire a two-speed pump to run only at the lower speed. Why
would you do this? A higher HP pump running at a lower speed than a
lower HP pump running at the high speed will last longer and run
quieter, and pool pump pricing is not necessarily linear with HP or speeds.

I.e. http://www.americanbestpoolsupply.com/detail/6051.htm is a 2.5HP
dual speed pump and it's less expensive than a 1.5HP single speed pump.
You would not even want to run it at high speed in many applications
because the flow rate would be too great for the pipe diameter.

On 9/7/2011 7:14 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:
On Wed, 07 Sep 2011 07:09:19 -0700, wrote:

On 9/7/2011 6:31 AM, wrote:

Also, if it comes time to replace, consider
a dual speed pump. Essentially they run at
low speed, circulate the water much longer
to move the same amount of water, but
still use like 40% less electricity. Can save
significant $$ on electricity. You would
also need a switch capable of doing 2 speed.
I'd only go with the basic two speed pumps,
not the full variable speed, electronic ones
as they cost so much more, I don't think
they are economically viable.

Those variable speed pumps are just insanely priced. The motors don't
draw less current at full speed (in fact they are rated at higher
current) the savings is apparently that you can run them much longer at
the lower speed and the power consumption goes up more than linearly
with speed. The pool store I go to also said that the life of those
pumps is about half what they see on older, single-speed, pumps.

What's the point? The rule of thumb I've always heard was that the water
should be "changed" daily. Whether that's done in 8 hours or 24, what's the
difference? I'd think the higher speed jet would mix the water in the pool
better, too.

Mixing isn't a problem at the lower speed.

I think originally the higher flows at higher motor speed were to
minimize the amount of time the pump needed to be on (since the noise
can be annoying). The lower flows at lower motor speed were introduced
to reduce power consumption since apparently running a motor twice as
long at half the speed uses less electricity.

The variable speed pumps cost over $1000. They have integrated timer
controls so it's one less controller on the wall. But who cares? The
Intermatic mechanical controller works fine.

Basically these variable speed pumps are "too much technology." The two
speed pumps have a toggle switch on the pump to select the speed, or can
be wired for a remote switch. But if electricity savings is the primary
concern you'd always run it at low speed anyway.

Pool pumps have a huge mark-up, and are heavily discounted, and the
least expensive ones are not necessarily the least powerful ones. So as
I stated earlier, in some cases you may want to run a larger two-speed
pump at lower speed, than a smaller one-speed pump at higher speed.

On Sep 7, 10:14*am, "
wrote:
On Wed, 07 Sep 2011 07:09:19 -0700, SMS wrote:
On 9/7/2011 6:31 AM, wrote:

Also, if it comes time to replace, consider
a dual speed pump. *Essentially they run at
low speed, circulate the water much longer
to move the same amount of water, but
still use like 40% less electricity. *Can save
significant $$ on electricity. *You would
also need a switch capable of doing 2 speed.
I'd only go with the basic two speed pumps,
not the full variable speed, electronic ones
as they cost so much more, I don't think
they are economically viable.

Those variable speed pumps are just insanely priced. The motors don't
draw less current at full speed (in fact they are rated at higher
current) the savings is apparently that you can run them much longer at
the lower speed and the power consumption goes up more than linearly
with speed. The pool store I go to also said that the life of those
pumps is about half what they see on older, single-speed, pumps.

What's the point? *The rule of thumb I've always heard was that the water
should be "changed" daily. *Whether that's done in 8 hours or 24, what's the
difference?

The difference is that the energy required to
move the water goes up as something like
the square of the speed. So, by doing it
slower over a much longer period, you can
save a considerable amount of money.
Kind of like driving at 40mph versus 160mph.



*I'd think the higher speed jet would mix the water in the pool
better, too.- Hide quoted text -


Probably doesn't make much difference.
The system relies on pulling water from
several areas and returning it to several
other areas. So, it's going to circulate
mostly just from that.

On Wed, 7 Sep 2011 13:35:28 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson
wrote:

On Tue, 06 Sep 2011 11:07:40 -0700, Abol wrote:

My pool motor is making noise.

Googling, I find the following parts "seem" to be in need of replacing:

- Shaft seal
- Bearings (two) for the motor

No way of adding fresh grease to the existing bearings and see if that
helps?

cheers

Jules

Doubtful. The front shaft bearing gets exposed to the chlorine,
causing it to rust. Replacement is the only cure.

On Wed, 7 Sep 2011 08:19:35 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

On Sep 7, 10:14*am, "
wrote:
On Wed, 07 Sep 2011 07:09:19 -0700, SMS wrote:
On 9/7/2011 6:31 AM, wrote:

Also, if it comes time to replace, consider
a dual speed pump. *Essentially they run at
low speed, circulate the water much longer
to move the same amount of water, but
still use like 40% less electricity. *Can save
significant $$ on electricity. *You would
also need a switch capable of doing 2 speed.
I'd only go with the basic two speed pumps,
not the full variable speed, electronic ones
as they cost so much more, I don't think
they are economically viable.

Those variable speed pumps are just insanely priced. The motors don't
draw less current at full speed (in fact they are rated at higher
current) the savings is apparently that you can run them much longer at
the lower speed and the power consumption goes up more than linearly
with speed. The pool store I go to also said that the life of those
pumps is about half what they see on older, single-speed, pumps.

What's the point? *The rule of thumb I've always heard was that the water
should be "changed" daily. *Whether that's done in 8 hours or 24, what's the
difference?

The difference is that the energy required to
move the water goes up as something like
the square of the speed. So, by doing it
slower over a much longer period, you can
save a considerable amount of money.
Kind of like driving at 40mph versus 160mph.

Then wouldn't a pump better sized to the pool be a better idea? What
determines the pump speed?


*I'd think the higher speed jet would mix the water in the pool
better, too.- Hide quoted text -


Probably doesn't make much difference.
The system relies on pulling water from
several areas and returning it to several
other areas. So, it's going to circulate
mostly just from that.

But if you're pulling from several places, I'd think the skimmer would be less
effective, too. It's been 20 years since I had a pool, so there are obviously
things I've missed.

On 9/7/2011 10:04 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Then wouldn't a pump better sized to the pool be a better idea? What
determines the pump speed?

That does make sense, except that there could be times when you need
less filtering (cool weather, off-season, less debris, fewer pool
users), and times when you need more filtering (lots of leaves, heavy
usage, extremely hot weather).

But if you're pulling from several places, I'd think the skimmer would be less
effective, too. It's been 20 years since I had a pool, so there are obviously
things I've missed.

I don't think it would make all that much difference. Leaves would be
drawn to the skimmer more slowly, but they'd still get there eventually.

On Sep 7, 1:04*pm, "
wrote:
On Wed, 7 Sep 2011 08:19:35 -0700 (PDT), "





wrote:
On Sep 7, 10:14 am, "
wrote:
On Wed, 07 Sep 2011 07:09:19 -0700, SMS wrote:
On 9/7/2011 6:31 AM, wrote:

Also, if it comes time to replace, consider
a dual speed pump. Essentially they run at
low speed, circulate the water much longer
to move the same amount of water, but
still use like 40% less electricity. Can save
significant $$ on electricity. You would
also need a switch capable of doing 2 speed.
I'd only go with the basic two speed pumps,
not the full variable speed, electronic ones
as they cost so much more, I don't think
they are economically viable.

Those variable speed pumps are just insanely priced. The motors don't
draw less current at full speed (in fact they are rated at higher
current) the savings is apparently that you can run them much longer at
the lower speed and the power consumption goes up more than linearly
with speed. The pool store I go to also said that the life of those
pumps is about half what they see on older, single-speed, pumps.

What's the point? The rule of thumb I've always heard was that the water
should be "changed" daily. Whether that's done in 8 hours or 24, what's the
difference?

The difference is that the energy required to
move the water goes up as something like
the square of the speed. * So, by doing it
slower over a much longer period, you can
save a considerable amount of money.
Kind of like driving at 40mph versus 160mph.

Then wouldn't a pump better sized to the pool be a better idea? *What
determines the pump speed?



With dual speed you use the low speed for routine
filtering most of the time. It can run most of the
day. You use the higher speed if the pool is a mess
and you're having a party tonight, it's too full
from rain and you need to pump it out, backwashing,
getting it filtered first time when opening it
after winterization, etc.






I'd think the higher speed jet would mix the water in the pool
better, too.- Hide quoted text -

Probably doesn't make much difference.
The system relies on pulling water from
several areas and returning it to several
other areas. *So, it's going to circulate
mostly just from that.

But if you're pulling from several places, I'd think the skimmer would be less
effective, too. *It's been 20 years since I had a pool, so there are obviously
things I've missed.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

On 9/7/2011 10:11 AM, SMS wrote:
On 9/7/2011 10:04 AM, zzzzzzzzzz wrote:

Then wouldn't a pump better sized to the pool be a better idea? What
determines the pump speed?

That does make sense, except that there could be times when you need
less filtering (cool weather, off-season, less debris, fewer pool
users), and times when you need more filtering (lots of leaves, heavy
usage, extremely hot weather).

But if you're pulling from several places, I'd think the skimmer would
be less
effective, too. It's been 20 years since I had a pool, so there are
obviously
things I've missed.

I don't think it would make all that much difference. Leaves would be
drawn to the skimmer more slowly, but they'd still get there eventually.

sometimes not. if it's too slow, then the friction and inertia may not
drag debris along.

wrote:
But, I'd rather do it myself and save even more.

How hard can it be?

Get bearings and a seal kit. Inspect the impeller but don't expect
any problem there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

He's confusing two parts. A pool motor is just
that, the electric motor. A complete pool pump
includes the motor plus the pump itself. I've
rebuilt the pump part, which is within the
capability of reasoably skilled DIY,
but never the motor part.
For the pump, there are rebuild kits that include
shaft seal, gaskets/o-rings, etc. If it needs a
new impeller can be determined on inspection.

If it's the electric motor that is making the noise,
I'd do a more thorough inspection and see what
condition it's in. You can buy a new one or
possibly take it to a local electric motor shop
for rebuild. Have not done that in a very long time,
not sure of the economics of it today, versus the
cost of a new motor.

Replaceing bearings on the motor is trivial. Bearings are the most likely cause
of noise. Bearings are cheap, and can be easily obtained at a bearing shop, or
probably for a little more at a pool store.

On Wed, 7 Sep 2011 06:31:57 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

not sure of the economics of it today, versus the
cost of a new motor.

A new 1.65 HP (1.0 x 1.65 SF) AO Smith 48Y square frame QC1102 motor is
about $250 (give or take) on the net while a rebuild is about $150 at the
local pool shop.

That's close enough to be not easy to say which way to go, economically.

BTW, Leslie's pool will put the seal in for free labor (about $25 for the
seal for my high-horsepower pumps); but they don't touch motor bearings
(they send them out).

Also, if it comes time to replace, consider
a dual speed pump.

I think that also entails a new controller (read very expensive ... like
$1000 or so). Right?

On Wed, 07 Sep 2011 08:15:49 -0700, SMS wrote:
The variable speed pumps cost over $1000. They have integrated timer
controls so it's one less controller on the wall. But who cares? The
Intermatic mechanical controller works fine.

This variable-speed discussion is interesting to me because, in California,
nobody is allowed to put a new single-speed pump in ever again!

That is, if I pay someone to 'fix' my pool system, it's my understanding
(from what they tell me) that they are not allowed, by law, to replace my
single-speed motor with a single-speed motor.

The 'loophole' (of sorts), is that I can still 'buy' a single-speed motor
and replace it myself.

But I can't pay someone to do the same thing.

So, sometime in my future, when I have to pay someone to fix the system,
I'll have to ditch the single-speed setup!

On Thu, 8 Sep 2011 12:40:16 -0700, Abol wrote:

Here's what I roughly calculate:
- Buying a new motor, about $250
- Having someone overhaul my existing motor, about $150
- Doing it myself, about $75 (in parts)

That includes a new:
- pump o-ring
- inner & outer viton/buton & ceramic/carbon seal
- Inner & outer sealed motor bearings

Since I have four motors, and since I don't want to have a professional
come out to my home to replace them (by law, they must replace the entire
system, including the $1000 controller to convert to multi-speed), I think
it's best for me to learn how to maintain them myself.

Go for it.

Are the bearings pressed on / off (I do not know)? That might get
you a tool or a visit to the local shop.

On 9/8/2011 11:09 AM, Abol wrote:
On Wed, 07 Sep 2011 08:15:49 -0700, SMS wrote:
The variable speed pumps cost over $1000. They have integrated timer
controls so it's one less controller on the wall. But who cares? The
Intermatic mechanical controller works fine.

This variable-speed discussion is interesting to me because, in California,
nobody is allowed to put a new single-speed pump in ever again!

I overheard the same thing when I was at Leslie's. They have a big pile
of single speed pumps in the store and they insist that they can't sell
them to you if you want them to install them, but it's okay for you to
install them yourself. But that's not how I read the law. It seems that
no matter who replaces the pump it must be changed to one with a two
speed motor.

Of course they can sell you a two speed pump and it's up to you to
figure out how you'll install it. From my reading of the law it's okay
to install it as a one speed pump with the lower speed only.

You could also install a pump that's less than 1HP and run it for longer
than you would a 1.5 to 2.0 HP pump.

The big issue is the controller. The over-ride for higher speed has to
automatically revert to low speed after one cycle, it can't be a toggle
switch on the pump.

I've thought of buying a two pump-start relays with 24VAC coils and
using my sprinkler timer to control the pool pump. The relay for the low
speed would be on a zone set to automatic, the one for high speed would
be on a zone set to manual. But I'll probably just get a two speed pump
next time and run it only on low speed.

Of course there is absolutely no enforcement of any of this.

On Thu, 08 Sep 2011 14:46:10 -0700, Oren wrote:

Are the bearings pressed on / off (I do not know)? That might get
you a tool or a visit to the local shop.

I watched the guy rebuild one of my motors (for $150).

He used a torch to get the bolts off w/o breaking them ... then he whacked
the motor far harder than I was comfortable with until he pried it apart
.... he used a bearing puller and the bearings were off in seconds ... and
then he put a post around the shaft and whacked the new bearings back in
place.

It certainly didn't look sophisticated!

On Thu, 08 Sep 2011 18:09:18 -0400, wrote:

Just be sure you don't break the centrifugal switch on the bell end of
the motor and you get it adjusted right.

I watched the guy working on my motor a while ago. He disassembled the
spring'ed stuff at the far end of the motor before disassembling. I think
that's the switch you're talking about.


Tightening the mounting screw changes that gap.
I'll need to look at the motor to fully understand that!

BTW, you're about right on the price of bearings. The pool supply store
here in California sold them to me for $25 each, but, at this web site, the
prices are far far less:

http://www.poolcenter.com/motor_parts.htm
AO SMith QC1102 1.0 x 1.65 hp motor:
Front bearing: RBL6303LL 20mm Double Sealed Pool Motor Bearing #303 $13.60
Rear bearing: RBL6304LL 20mm Double Sealed Pool Motor Bearing #304 $11.05

Get this! They have a sense of humor on their web site:
"Replace your Bearings when the noise level exceeds your tolerance level"

They also sell the bearing puller tool for $20 and the bearing tamping tool
for $7.50.

On Thu, 8 Sep 2011 23:02:31 -0700, SF Man wrote:

Front bearing: RBL6303LL 20mm Double Sealed Pool Motor Bearing #303 $13.60
Rear bearing: RBL6304LL 20mm Double Sealed Pool Motor Bearing #304 $11.05

That's now how I read the charts at that nice web page.

I read that a 1.0 (nominal) HP AOSmith 48 frame motor would use two of the
bearing #203 (OD 1 9/16") for both the rear end and the shaft end.

On 9/8/2011 23:02, SF Man wrote:

They also sell the bearing puller tool for $20 and the bearing tamping tool
for $7.50.

You may even be able to tamp the bearings down with a piece of 3/4 inch
iron pipe.

On Fri, 09 Sep 2011 13:37:46 -0400, wrote:

If you go to a real bearing site they are a whole lot cheaper. This is
the one for my Sta-Rite 1 hp pump.
http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/17mm/6203-2RS10-1

You're not kidding!

$1.75 for these bearings? And, I noticed the 6203ZZ 17x40x12 Shielded Ball
Bearings are a whopping $3.49 each!
(http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/kit1040)

Wow. What prices you have there!

I wonder what 'my' 1.0 Sta-Rite Maxi-GlassII pump (AO Smith motor, 1.0 HP x
1.65SF) bearings will cost.

How did you cross reference the part number?

I noticed, for example, your part number is 6203-2RS10-1; see that "203"
part? That is the same "size" as my bearings. But, of course, I'm just
plucking similar numbers out of the list so there must be a cross reference
somewhere.

Did you do it merely by dimensions?

On Sat, 10 Sep 2011 02:01:06 -0400, wrote:

If you don't have the real bearing installer tool use a 5/8" washer
under the pipe

I'm not worried about buying the right tools. They're inexpensive enough,
and they will easily pay for themselves on the first motor rebuild.

Right now, with that FANTASTIC bearing site you referenced, I'm trying to
cross reference my bearings to their part numbers.

Mine a
- Sta-Rite Maxi-GlassII pump with the 1.0 HP x 1.65HP motor (QC1102), Y48
square flange.
- Here is a rough desciption (it says "double sealed ball bearings",
whatever that means):
http://www.drillspot.com/products/80...ool_Pump_Motor
- Here is an exploded diagram
http://www.aqua-man.com/schematic.asp?kc=S1466&s=full

What I'm looking for is a way to cross reference the bearings.

On Fri, 9 Sep 2011 23:26:57 -0700, Abol wrote:
What I'm looking for is a way to cross reference the bearings.

I found an old receipt for my sta-rite maxi-glasII pump motor repair for a
similar motor (QC1102, 1.0 HP x 1.65 SF).

The receipt says:
- KBC 6203D double-sealed 17mm bearings, $9.50 each, Qty 2, total = $19.00.
- PS-201 Pump Seal, $12.00 each
- U9-228A Seal plate o-ring for pump housing, $6.00

Googling for that "KBC 6203D" bearing, I find there are two types:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PCS-KBC-62...-/120680735216

$2.97 each, 6203-2RS,RS Sealed Ball Bearing 17mm ID x40 OD x12mm width
$3.10 6203-2ZZ Ball Bearing 17x40x12 mm 6203 ZZ Sealed Shield

I'm guessing "RS Sealed" and "Sealed Shield" are different ways of sealing
them. I would think for a pool pump, the more sealed it is, the better.

Presumably the ZZ (with two metal shields) is more sealed than the RS
(rubber shield?) but I'm guessing now.

I do know that there is clearly the black rubber in my motor ... so I guess
.... the rubber shielded bearins are the OEM ones?

On Sat, 10 Sep 2011 00:08:04 -0700, Abol wrote:
I'm guessing "RS Sealed" and "Sealed Shield" are different ways of sealing
them. I would think for a pool pump, the more sealed it is, the better.

The AO Smith part number for the #203 bearing is: 604005-001 which is a
"double sealed high thrust" bearing.

So, that's probably what the "D" stands for in the "KBC 6203D" stamping on
the bearing itself.

Interestingly the AO Smith size specs differ ever so slightly from the
standard 6203 bearings:

I wonder if these (slight) differences matter?
6203: ID=0.66993", OD=1.5748", W=0.4724"
AOSmith: ID=0.6693", OD=1.5750", W=0.470"

On Sat, 10 Sep 2011 11:26:10 -0400, wrote:

There is usually a number on the bearing that will cross.

I don't know if I mentioned but "6203D" is on my bearings.

Googling, I find LOTS and LOTS of the metric 6203 bearings (17mm ID x 40mm
OD x 12mm wide), at prices so scary as to make postage a bigger concern!

For example:
http://www.thebigbearingstore.com/se...al-Ball/Detail

* The 6203-2RS ball bearing has two contact rubber seals one on each side
of the ball bearing.
* The 6203-ZZ ball bearing has two non-contact metal shields one on each
side of the ball bearing.