On Sun, 4 Sep 2011 06:55:38 -0700 (PDT), wrote:
If you do that, don't go over about
15 or 20psi. I'd also do it right after
the pump has been running for a
while. I think that way there is
probably going to be more water
around the leak area, so more
water to spot boiling out of the
ground.

I'll try that as I'm 'sure' there are leaks (I put in 500 gallons every few
days ... and my well output is only about 400 gallons in a 24-hour day).

I also see you mentioned sand
destroying the impeller. Where is
that coming from? Does a lot blow
into the pool from the environment?

When I bought the forclosure, I was told they emptied the pool, but,
rainwater filled it (that's a LOT of rain!) and then the vector control
guys threw mosquitoe fish into it to keep the mosquitoes down.

It was greenish brown when I got it, and the water level was about a foot
below the deck. The fish were happily swimming about, eating the algae. The
bottom had mud on it everywhere, which we had cleaned up by a work crew.

Normally, no sand spills into the pool (it gets wind borne debris, but, not
much).


If not, another sign of a leaking pipe
is sand, small pebbles, getting
sucked in.

Interesting. I 'do' see tiny pebbles in the filter basket and wondered how
they got there ...

C - A brown cloud that went by some
number of seconds after the pump
started each time.

That I never see.

On Sun, 04 Sep 2011 12:55:00 -0700, Oren wrote:

C.) You told us on the Internet, felling an Oak tree.


Oh, yeah. I forget how unforgetful the Internet is!

That oak is drying nicely now ... but man oh man ... anyone who splits
these things by hand deserves my respect!

[Note: for your NNTP limitation. A text only sever with no binaries]
http://www.eternal-september.org/

I'll try these nntp settings and see how that works out (thanks!).

Server name: news.eternal-september.org
Port : 119 (NNTP)
Port : 563 (encrypted connection NNTPS)

On Sun, 4 Sep 2011 07:07:05 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

But my first thought would be to
apply air at the pool pad and see where bubbles
come out. If you have lots of air coming out
the bottom drain and no brown water, I'd say
it's unlikely a clog you're dealing with.

That's a great diagnostic technique ...

I will see what I can rig to go from the air nozzle to the 2 inch opening
at the bottom of the debris cannister first.

A diagram of the layout, roughly, is in this web page:
http://www.starbacks.ca/Eureka/1034/...ntpcc2000.html

On Mon, 5 Sep 2011 10:21:41 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

you should have water flowing at the
pool pad if you just open a fitting, like the pump
skimmer basket.

Yes. If I forget to shut off the valves at the pool pad, then, whenever I
open any of the three pump filter baskets at the pad, water flows forever
until I realize it and shut off the valves.

And since I think you said the
suction from the pool is only the bottom drain
and a side fitting, by plugging up that side
fitting you could determine if the bottom drain
if flowing or not.

You must be an engineer! That's an elegant diagnostic!

1. I would set the valves at the pool pad to only allow input water from
the pool (and not from the spa).

2. I would cover just the safety drain at the side of the deep end of the
pool (leaving the main drain at the bottom of the deep end of the pool
alone).

3. Then, if I open the pump filter basket, water should flow if the bottom
drain is unclogged.

Very elegant. I suspect a plastic bag should work on the side filter to
plug it up.

On Mon, 5 Sep 2011 10:06:58 -0700, SF Man
wrote:

On Sun, 04 Sep 2011 12:20:04 -0700, Oren wrote:

The valves (Jandy) have O-rings. Replace those O-rings that drip,
suck air or are damaged. Just a replacement part at a pool shop. Lube
the new rings when you install them. That should stop leaks.

Thanks for the advice.

I think, almost every valve is leaking.

So, I'll take one apart (it has large #3 phillips screws on top) and take a
look at these o-rings. I've never taken it apart before.

Luckily there are multiple pool-supply stores within a 20-mile radius, so,
I should be able to find parts in stock.

Before you pull the valves apart. make a small "scratch" mark on the
valve body and the valve handle. Use the mark when you put them back
together -- an alignment.

On Mon, 05 Sep 2011 11:10:12 -0700, Oren wrote:

Before you pull the valves apart. make a small "scratch" mark on the
valve body and the valve handle. Use the mark when you put them back
together -- an alignment.

That's the kind of stuff you learn from experience!

Thanks.

On Sep 6, 6:37*pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 6 Sep 2011 12:30:44 -0700, SF Man
wrote:

On Mon, 05 Sep 2011 11:10:12 -0700, Oren wrote:

Before you pull the valves apart. make a small "scratch" mark on the
valve body and the valve handle. Use the mark when you put them back
together -- an alignment.

That's the kind of stuff you learn from experience!

Thanks.

Every trade has some little bit of technique.

I once performed a Side Walk Miracle. The man threw down his crutches,
hop skipped back to the medical staff. Suddenly he did not like his
choices: work or strict bed rest.

Phone called Denied! *I could cure people :-'

I also would not use a plastic bag to close off the
side suction port. Not effective and too easy for
it to wind up in the pipe. You can get a winterizing
plug which is essentially like a rubber stopper with
a wingnut on it that expands it. They are available
here in the NYC area at pool stores, but might not
be in CA, though they are useful for things other
than winterizing. You can also find them online.

On Sep 1, 11:14*pm, "
wrote:
On Sep 1, 7:42*pm, JIMMIE wrote:









On Aug 31, 12:24*am, SF Man wrote:

My pool drain is 9 feet underwater - and - I think it's clogged because the
pump runs dry every time I switch from both the spa & pool or just the spa,
to the pool only.

The drain cover has screws on top - but - it's 9 feet under (due to the
nature of the self-cleaning pool).

I long lost (20 years ago) my PADI scuba diving certification card (I
wonder if we can get a new one sent?) and I don't have tanks (although I
could buy them on Craigslist) and a regulator ...

So, I wonder, sans scuba equipment, how do you guy normally service your
deep drains to see what's clogging them up?

I took a look at my pool and I dont think it would take more than an
hour to reconfigure my plumbing to backwash the drain. That said I
find it possible bit not likely you have a drain that clogged, more
likely the valve used to switch from spa to pool.

Jimmie

Somewhere along the way he mentioned that he doesn't
understand how a pipe could be collapsed. *One key
issue is what pipe was used. *Around here, NJ, they
usually use flex PVC because it's easier to work with.
Problem with that is that it can collapse if not backfilled
carefully or subjected to too much vacuum. *Also, it's
often not possible to tell what they used. *Pool here
uses flex PVC underground but transitions to regular
PVC prior to exiting the ground.

Not saying that's his problem, just one more thing to
consider. * I'd proceed by rigging up something to
put either water or air down the suspect pipe,
keeping the pressure below 15 or 20PSI or so. *I've
rigged up fittings from my air compressor to
pool lines. * If he can't get access to do that
with what's there, cutting the PVC line at an
appropriate spot is no big deal. * Also, they
have what are called "snap tees". *Hard to
describe, but google is your friend. *Basicly
it's a T that is made to snap onto an existing
pipe. *You use regular PVC cement, snap it
on, then use a drill to make a hole in the
existing pipe. * Could use that to get his
access point, connect water or air, close
whatever valve he has and then test.

T4-

A snap tee's is a great idea in this situation.

I use them all the time to add sprinklers to existing lines or to "tap
off" existing lines.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tdxrychcx1Q

On Wed, 7 Sep 2011 06:21:57 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:


I also would not use a plastic bag to close off the
side suction port. Not effective and too easy for
it to wind up in the pipe. You can get a winterizing
plug which is essentially like a rubber stopper with
a wingnut on it that expands it. They are available
here in the NYC area at pool stores, but might not
be in CA, though they are useful for things other
than winterizing. You can also find them online.

Good advice about the plastic bag. I've not seen the plugs you
mention for a pool. I never close the pool in the desert :-/

HD sells a similar plug with a wingnut that you tighten...house
plumbing?

Once heard a pool guy suggest using a tennis ball on the skimmer pipe.

The plug sounds much safer -- preventing the bag being sucked into the
system.

Hope the OP tells us what he finds out.

On Wednesday, August 31, 2011 at 8:35:12 AM UTC-7, wrote:
On Tue, 30 Aug 2011 21:24:50 -0700, SF Man wrote:

My pool drain is 9 feet underwater - and - I think it's clogged because the
pump runs dry every time I switch from both the spa & pool or just the spa,
to the pool only.

The drain cover has screws on top - but - it's 9 feet under (due to the
nature of the self-cleaning pool).

I long lost (20 years ago) my PADI scuba diving certification card (I
wonder if we can get a new one sent?) and I don't have tanks (although I
could buy them on Craigslist) and a regulator ...

So, I wonder, sans scuba equipment, how do you guy normally service your
deep drains to see what's clogging them up?

It's probably not clogged but broken. You're likely sucking air.

When I had a pool, I did patches without any tanks. The only issue was
buoyancy. At the deep end, I had SWMBO hold me down with the sweep. Trusting,
huh. ;-) ...though something clogging the bottom drain is *very* unlikely.
It has a cover, no?

She Who Must Be Obeyed? whaaaaaat?

I hate readiing a book to find the last chapter torn out.

replying to Evan, BR wrote:
You sound like a troll who lives in his mom's basement. Move on!

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...-f-660364-.htm

replying to Evan, BR wrote:
He mentioned "cost" to refill from tanker, not "time". You reaching.
Reaching for something to lecture him about. Hear that? Your mom is calling.
It's time for bed. Move on!

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...-f-660364-.htm

replying to trader4, BR wrote:
well said.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...-f-660364-.htm