I know this is an oxymoron but I am looking for a decent pocket door
for a half bath. I'm moving a few things around and the bath door
will be on a wall in the foyer right at the bottom of the steps. The
half bath will be fairly narrow, around 32", so the door can't swing
in.

Most of the other doors in the house are masonite genuine-imitation
six panel doors but none of them ar within eyeshot of where this
pocket door will be. The foyer has hardwood floors and the bath will
be tiled.

I won't have a problem if the framing of the wall the pocket door goes
in ends up being wider than 3.5". I could easily go to 5.5" or
whatever is needed.

To me it would be ideal if the pocket door also had a bottom track to
keep the door from slopping around.

So, is there such a thing as a decent pocket door?

On Mar 30, 10:46*am, Limp Arbor wrote:
I know this is an oxymoron but I am looking for a decent pocket door
for a half bath. *I'm moving a few things around and the bath door
will be on a wall in the foyer right at the bottom of the steps. *The
half bath will be fairly narrow, around 32", so the door can't swing
in.

Most of the other doors in the house are masonite genuine-imitation
six panel doors but none of them ar within eyeshot of where this
pocket door will be. *The foyer has hardwood floors and the bath will
be tiled.

I won't have a problem if the framing of the wall the pocket door goes
in ends up being wider than 3.5". *I could easily go to 5.5" or
whatever is needed.

To me it would be ideal if the pocket door also had a bottom track to
keep the door from slopping around.

So, is there such a thing as a decent pocket door?

Tradeoffs. There are a number of pocket door hardware manufacturers,
Johnson being one.
http://www.johnsonhardware.com
But if I'm looking for a higher quality sliding door, pocket or no, I
usually go with doors that roll on tracks. Again, tradeoffs - the
rolling doors can be a bit noisier (usually only a concern if the door
is on the second floor), and slightly more attention must be paid to
keeping the track clean and clear.
http://www.cabinetmakerssupply.com/s...611_prd 1.htm

R

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:46:52 -0700 (PDT), Limp Arbor
wrote:

I know this is an oxymoron but I am looking for a decent pocket door
for a half bath. I'm moving a few things around and the bath door
will be on a wall in the foyer right at the bottom of the steps. The
half bath will be fairly narrow, around 32", so the door can't swing
in.

Most of the other doors in the house are masonite genuine-imitation
six panel doors but none of them ar within eyeshot of where this
pocket door will be. The foyer has hardwood floors and the bath will
be tiled.

I won't have a problem if the framing of the wall the pocket door goes
in ends up being wider than 3.5". I could easily go to 5.5" or
whatever is needed.

To me it would be ideal if the pocket door also had a bottom track to
keep the door from slopping around.

So, is there such a thing as a decent pocket door?
Lots of them. Get the pocket door installation kit and put whatever
door you want on it.
Don't have any manufacturer names, but there are pocket doors with a
"track" on the bottom inside the wall to guide the bottom of the door
and keep it running true.

On Mar 30, 11:12*am, RicodJour wrote:
On Mar 30, 10:46*am, Limp Arbor wrote:





I know this is an oxymoron but I am looking for a decent pocket door
for a half bath. *I'm moving a few things around and the bath door
will be on a wall in the foyer right at the bottom of the steps. *The
half bath will be fairly narrow, around 32", so the door can't swing
in.

Most of the other doors in the house are masonite genuine-imitation
six panel doors but none of them ar within eyeshot of where this
pocket door will be. *The foyer has hardwood floors and the bath will
be tiled.

I won't have a problem if the framing of the wall the pocket door goes
in ends up being wider than 3.5". *I could easily go to 5.5" or
whatever is needed.

To me it would be ideal if the pocket door also had a bottom track to
keep the door from slopping around.

So, is there such a thing as a decent pocket door?

Tradeoffs. *There are a number of pocket door hardware manufacturers,
Johnson being one.http://www.johnsonhardware.com
But if I'm looking for a higher quality sliding door, pocket or no, I
usually go with doors that roll on tracks. *Again, tradeoffs - the
rolling doors can be a bit noisier (usually only a concern if the door
is on the second floor), and slightly more attention must be paid to
keeping the track clean and clear.
http://www.cabinetmakerssupply.com/s...net_sheaves_an...

R-

I'm intrigued by the sheave & track link you posted. I do see how
cleanliness could be a problem especially with two kids. Who knows
what they may shove in the slot between the door and the split jam.

I would think that with the Johnson hardware I could add the wheel at
the bottom if I wanted to. You could probably even remove the door
without taking the trim off be releasing the clips at the top. If
this is true then cleaning the track or removing some offending toy
shoved in there wouldn't be too much trouble.

On Mar 30, 2:39*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:

I'm intrigued by the sheave & track link you posted. *I do see how
cleanliness could be a problem especially with two kids. *Who knows
what they may shove in the slot between the door and the split jam.

I like the floor tracks as they add more flexibility and are another
tool in the arsenal. I had one project, a bathroom under the rafters,
and we wanted to put in sliding closet doors as any swing doors would
be a problem in the tight space. Since the doors were to be 15 light
french style doors, cutting them down enough to allow a top track and
still have them look good was not possible. The sheaves and track
were just the ticket. I built up a custom header track that was
sloped to follow the roof and bolted that to the rafters. I used some
metal patina from my stained glass work to change the brass track to a
dark bronze to match the rest of the oil-rubbed brown hardware and
plumbing in the bathroom. Worked out well.

I would think that with the Johnson hardware I could add the wheel at
the bottom if I wanted to. *You could probably even remove the door
without taking the trim off be releasing the clips at the top. *If
this is true then cleaning the track or removing some offending toy
shoved in there wouldn't be too much trouble.

Most pocket door problems start with the installation. You don't want
wheels on a track at top and bottom. That will cause problems. Pick
either one and go with it. Do your research and have at it. It'll be
fine.

R

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 11:54:51 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote:

On Mar 30, 2:39Â*pm, Limp Arbor wrote:

I'm intrigued by the sheave & track link you posted. Â*I do see how
cleanliness could be a problem especially with two kids. Â*Who knows
what they may shove in the slot between the door and the split jam.

I like the floor tracks as they add more flexibility and are another
tool in the arsenal. I had one project, a bathroom under the rafters,
and we wanted to put in sliding closet doors as any swing doors would
be a problem in the tight space. Since the doors were to be 15 light
french style doors, cutting them down enough to allow a top track and
still have them look good was not possible. The sheaves and track
were just the ticket. I built up a custom header track that was
sloped to follow the roof and bolted that to the rafters. I used some
metal patina from my stained glass work to change the brass track to a
dark bronze to match the rest of the oil-rubbed brown hardware and
plumbing in the bathroom. Worked out well.

I would think that with the Johnson hardware I could add the wheel at
the bottom if I wanted to. Â*You could probably even remove the door
without taking the trim off be releasing the clips at the top. Â*If
this is true then cleaning the track or removing some offending toy
shoved in there wouldn't be too much trouble.

Most pocket door problems start with the installation. You don't want
wheels on a track at top and bottom. That will cause problems. Pick
either one and go with it. Do your research and have at it. It'll be
fine.

R
Many patio doors DO have rollers top and bottom, and work well - so I
would not make such a blanket statement

On Mar 30, 5:25*pm, wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 11:54:51 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour

Most pocket door problems start with the installation. *You don't want
wheels on a track at top and bottom. *That will cause problems. *Pick
either one and go with it. *Do your research and have at it. *It'll be
fine.


Many patio doors DO have rollers top and bottom, and work well - so I
would not make such a blanket statement

Right. Of course. Some jury-rigged job site mixed hardware solution
will work as well as a door developed commercially for production and
manufactured in a factory. Good point.

BTW, I'm not familiar with any patio doors that have rollers top and
bottom. Who makes them?

R

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:46:52 -0700 (PDT), Limp Arbor
wrote:

I know this is an oxymoron but I am looking for a decent pocket door
for a half bath. I'm moving a few things around and the bath door
will be on a wall in the foyer right at the bottom of the steps. The
half bath will be fairly narrow, around 32", so the door can't swing
in.

Most of the other doors in the house are masonite genuine-imitation
six panel doors but none of them ar within eyeshot of where this
pocket door will be. The foyer has hardwood floors and the bath will
be tiled.

I won't have a problem if the framing of the wall the pocket door goes
in ends up being wider than 3.5". I could easily go to 5.5" or
whatever is needed.

To me it would be ideal if the pocket door also had a bottom track to
keep the door from slopping around.

So, is there such a thing as a decent pocket door?

One thing you can do that makes pocket doors seem higher quality is to
use a solid slab door rather than hollow. The extra weight gives it a
quality feel and it slides smoother and blocks noise better. It does
require track hardware that is rated for the weight though. On a
narrow door it's not a big deal.

When I did my half bath, I made a custom threshold for under the door
that had slightly raised sides that essentially created a track to
capture the bottom of the door so it didn't swing at all. I got a lot
of compliments on how solid and smooth that door was. I needed a
threshold anyway because of transition between floor materials, so it
was simple to build in a bottom guide track. My track kit came with a
little guide designed to prevent the door from swinging, but I liked
the solid feel of the full length guide.

Two other tips. I bought two track kits (they weren't very expensive
compared to the cost of the job) so I could double up the thin half
studs that support the walls, putting them on 8" centers. Those thin
studs are pretty flimsy. I needed to stick with standard wall
thickness. If you are willing to build a thicker wall you can use
2x4's mounted sideways to get extra beef.

Finally, screw, rather than nail the trim pieces that need to be
removed to remove the door. Makes it much easier to do repairs if
needed. I used small head trim screws covered with color matched
putty and you could hardly see them.

You can have a quality pocket door, it just takes a little custom
work.

HTH,

Paul F.

On Mar 30, 7:59*pm, Paul Franklin
wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:46:52 -0700 (PDT), Limp Arbor





wrote:
I know this is an oxymoron but I am looking for a decent pocket door
for a half bath. *I'm moving a few things around and the bath door
will be on a wall in the foyer right at the bottom of the steps. *The
half bath will be fairly narrow, around 32", so the door can't swing
in.

Most of the other doors in the house are masonite genuine-imitation
six panel doors but none of them ar within eyeshot of where this
pocket door will be. *The foyer has hardwood floors and the bath will
be tiled.

I won't have a problem if the framing of the wall the pocket door goes
in ends up being wider than 3.5". *I could easily go to 5.5" or
whatever is needed.

To me it would be ideal if the pocket door also had a bottom track to
keep the door from slopping around.

So, is there such a thing as a decent pocket door?

One thing you can do that makes pocket doors seem higher quality is to
use a solid slab door rather than hollow. *The extra weight gives it a
quality feel and it slides smoother and *blocks noise better. *It does
require track hardware that is rated for the weight though. *On a
narrow door it's not a big deal.

I was thinking the same thing. I'll probably get a solid six panel
pine door.

Then the question becomes try to stain it to match the floor?
Stain it a complimentary shade?
Paint it white?
Let SWMBO decide?



When I did my half bath, I made a custom threshold for under the door
that had slightly raised sides that essentially created a track to
capture the bottom of the door so it didn't swing at all. *I got a lot
of compliments on how solid and smooth that door was. *I needed a
threshold anyway because of transition between floor materials, so it
was simple to build in a bottom guide track. My track kit came with a
little guide designed to prevent the door from swinging, but I liked
the solid feel of the full length guide.

I watched the video on Johnson's website and they show they little
triangle pieces at the bottom to keep the door from swinging. Having
never done this I would assume the door needs to stay a little proud
of the jam so it stays engaged on those triangles.

When you made your guide/threshold did you leave it long and
incorporate it into the framing so when the door is open the door
remains engaged in the 'track'?


Two other tips. *I bought two track kits (they weren't very expensive
compared to the cost of the job) so I could double up the thin half
studs that support the walls, putting them on 8" centers. *Those thin
studs are pretty flimsy. * I needed to stick with standard wall
thickness. *If you are willing to build a thicker wall you can use
2x4's mounted sideways to get extra beef.

I'm going to have to build a thicker wall because the 'pocket' won't
be much deeper than the wall. The half bath will only be around 7' by
32" with the door roughly midway on the 7' wall so I won't have much
remaining wall to help stiffen it up. I'm even considering using
plywood behind the drywall to make a sturdier wall.


Finally, screw, rather than nail the trim pieces that need to be
removed to remove the door. *Makes it much easier to do repairs if
needed. *I used small head trim screws covered with color matched
putty and you could hardly see them.

You can have a quality pocket door, it just takes a little custom
work.

HTH,

Paul F.

On Mar 31, 9:20*am, Limp Arbor wrote:

I watched the video on Johnson's website and they show they little
triangle pieces at the bottom to keep the door from swinging. *Having
never done this I would assume the door needs to stay a little proud
of the jam so it stays engaged on those triangles.

Those little triangles extend back a little ways into the opening.
The door should be totally flush with the split jamb when it's
installed correctly.

R

On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 06:20:47 -0700 (PDT), Limp Arbor
wrote:

On Mar 30, 7:59*pm, Paul Franklin
wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:46:52 -0700 (PDT), Limp Arbor





wrote:
I know this is an oxymoron but I am looking for a decent pocket door
for a half bath. *I'm moving a few things around and the bath door
will be on a wall in the foyer right at the bottom of the steps. *The
half bath will be fairly narrow, around 32", so the door can't swing
in.

Most of the other doors in the house are masonite genuine-imitation
six panel doors but none of them ar within eyeshot of where this
pocket door will be. *The foyer has hardwood floors and the bath will
be tiled.

I won't have a problem if the framing of the wall the pocket door goes
in ends up being wider than 3.5". *I could easily go to 5.5" or
whatever is needed.

To me it would be ideal if the pocket door also had a bottom track to
keep the door from slopping around.

So, is there such a thing as a decent pocket door?

One thing you can do that makes pocket doors seem higher quality is to
use a solid slab door rather than hollow. *The extra weight gives it a
quality feel and it slides smoother and *blocks noise better. *It does
require track hardware that is rated for the weight though. *On a
narrow door it's not a big deal.

I was thinking the same thing. I'll probably get a solid six panel
pine door.

Then the question becomes try to stain it to match the floor?
Stain it a complimentary shade?
Paint it white?
Let SWMBO decide?



When I did my half bath, I made a custom threshold for under the door
that had slightly raised sides that essentially created a track to
capture the bottom of the door so it didn't swing at all. *I got a lot
of compliments on how solid and smooth that door was. *I needed a
threshold anyway because of transition between floor materials, so it
was simple to build in a bottom guide track. My track kit came with a
little guide designed to prevent the door from swinging, but I liked
the solid feel of the full length guide.

I watched the video on Johnson's website and they show they little
triangle pieces at the bottom to keep the door from swinging. Having
never done this I would assume the door needs to stay a little proud
of the jam so it stays engaged on those triangles.

The plastic guides (IIRC) wrap around the edge of the jamb a little so
they will guide the door even when it is flush with the jamb when
fully open (which looks best IMO).

When you made your guide/threshold did you leave it long and
incorporate it into the framing so when the door is open the door
remains engaged in the 'track'?

I'll try to describe better. I had tile in the bath and sheet vinyl
in the hall outside; the transition between them was right under the
door. Imagine taking a 1 x 6 and laying it flat underneath the door
(over the seam between flooring types in my case) running from jamb to
jamb. Then bevel the edges a little so one doesn't catch one's foot
on it. Cut the door so it is no more than about 1/4" above the 1x6.
Now add two 1x1 strips on top of the 1x6, one on each side of the door
so they form a "track" for the whole bottom edge of the door.

Now I actually used 3/8" thick stock (not 1x) making the total
thickness only 3/4", so it wasn't a trip hazard, but you get the
picture I hope. And if you don't have a flooring seam to cover, you
can get by with only the two pieces that form the track.



Two other tips. *I bought two track kits (they weren't very expensive
compared to the cost of the job) so I could double up the thin half
studs that support the walls, putting them on 8" centers. *Those thin
studs are pretty flimsy. * I needed to stick with standard wall
thickness. *If you are willing to build a thicker wall you can use
2x4's mounted sideways to get extra beef.

I'm going to have to build a thicker wall because the 'pocket' won't
be much deeper than the wall. The half bath will only be around 7' by
32" with the door roughly midway on the 7' wall so I won't have much
remaining wall to help stiffen it up. I'm even considering using
plywood behind the drywall to make a sturdier wall.

I was adding to an existing wall so I didn't have that option without
doing a lot more demo, but you'll be fine if you can get 2x4's in
sideways on 16" centers. If you're really concerned, go to 12"
centers. I think plywood's more trouble than it's worth. Remember
there won't be a bottom plate under the door, so the studs have to be
fastened only to the floor.

And the #1 thing to get right: make sure your drywall screws are short
so they don't go through the framing into the door!

Paul F.



Finally, screw, rather than nail the trim pieces that need to be
removed to remove the door. *Makes it much easier to do repairs if
needed. *I used small head trim screws covered with color matched
putty and you could hardly see them.

You can have a quality pocket door, it just takes a little custom
work.

HTH,

Paul F.

On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 10:58:16 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote:

On Mar 31, 9:20Â*am, Limp Arbor wrote:

I watched the video on Johnson's website and they show they little
triangle pieces at the bottom to keep the door from swinging. Â*Having
never done this I would assume the door needs to stay a little proud
of the jam so it stays engaged on those triangles.

Those little triangles extend back a little ways into the opening.
The door should be totally flush with the split jamb when it's
installed correctly.

R
According to the instructions on the door pocket I installed for my
daughter the door should extend just into the wall when fully closed

On Mar 31, 8:25*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011, RicodJour wrote:
On Mar 31, 9:20*am, Limp Arbor wrote:

I watched the video on Johnson's website and they show they little
triangle pieces at the bottom to keep the door from swinging. *Having
never done this I would assume the door needs to stay a little proud
of the jam so it stays engaged on those triangles.

Those little triangles extend back a little ways into the opening.
The door should be totally flush with the split jamb when it's
installed correctly.


According to the instructions on the door pocket I installed for my
daughter the door should extend just into the wall when fully closed

I'm not quite sure what that means..."should extend _just_ into the
wall"...? Do you mean it should just project into the opening a
little bit? If so, why? There's an edge pull on a pocket door -
there's no functional reason to have the door project at all into the
opening when the door is fully recessed.

You mentioned in an earlier post about many patio doors having rollers
top and bottom, and I said I wasn't familiar with any. Help me out -
which ones are you talking about?

R

On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 19:28:53 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote:

On Mar 31, 8:25Â*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011, RicodJour wrote:
On Mar 31, 9:20Â*am, Limp Arbor wrote:

I watched the video on Johnson's website and they show they little
triangle pieces at the bottom to keep the door from swinging. Â*Having
never done this I would assume the door needs to stay a little proud
of the jam so it stays engaged on those triangles.

Those little triangles extend back a little ways into the opening.
The door should be totally flush with the split jamb when it's
installed correctly.


According to the instructions on the door pocket I installed for my
daughter the door should extend just into the wall when fully closed

I'm not quite sure what that means..."should extend _just_ into the
wall"...? Do you mean it should just project into the opening a
little bit? If so, why? There's an edge pull on a pocket door -
there's no functional reason to have the door project at all into the
opening when the door is fully recessed.

You are reading me backwards. I said when the door is fully CLOSED the
edge of the door is still inside the wall. When OPEN the opening is
totally clear. In other words, a 24" opening uses a 25" door with a
minimum 25" pocket.

You mentioned in an earlier post about many patio doors having rollers
top and bottom, and I said I wasn't familiar with any. Help me out -
which ones are you talking about?

R
Virtually all patio door screens use that setup and so does the
wood-framed patio door in our friend's Viceroy cottage (about 30 years
old). No idea what make. The wood framed patio door removed from
another friend's house also had rollers top and bottom from what I
remember.
EXTREMELY smooth running - unlike the new vinyl door that replaced
it. House is about 45 years old and the door was original.

I also remember several 4 roller doors that were replaced when I
worked for 2 different window and door contractors a number of years
back.

Peachtree doors used top rollers, and I believe Guaranteed Products
did as well. I think their hardware was D.H.Laurence stuff, but not
sure. Some of them were horizontal rollers, not vertical - but at
least a few were vertical, set up like the screen doors but
considerably heavier.

On Mar 31, 11:07*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011, RicodJour wrote:
On Mar 31, 8:25*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011, RicodJour wrote:
On Mar 31, 9:20*am, Limp Arbor wrote:

I watched the video on Johnson's website and they show they little
triangle pieces at the bottom to keep the door from swinging. *Having
never done this I would assume the door needs to stay a little proud
of the jam so it stays engaged on those triangles.

Those little triangles extend back a little ways into the opening.
The door should be totally flush with the split jamb when it's
installed correctly.

According to the instructions on the door pocket I installed for my
daughter the door should extend just into the wall when fully closed

I'm not quite sure what that means..."should extend _just_ into the
wall"...? *Do you mean it should just project into the opening a
little bit? *If so, why? *There's an edge pull on a pocket door -
there's no functional reason to have the door project at all into the
opening when the door is fully recessed.

You are reading me backwards. I said when the door is fully CLOSED the
edge of the door is still inside the wall. When OPEN the opening is
totally clear.

That makes more sense than the first draft.

In other words, a 24" opening uses a 25" door with a
minimum 25" pocket.

A 25" door...ummm, where exactly are you supposed to get that? Cut it
down from a 28" door or special order it?

You mentioned in an earlier post about many patio doors having rollers
top and bottom, and I said I wasn't familiar with any. *Help me out -
which ones are you talking about?


Virtually all patio door screens use that setup and so does the
wood-framed patio door in our friend's Viceroy cottage (about 30 years
old). No idea what make. The wood framed patio door removed from
another friend's house also had rollers top and bottom from what I
remember.
*EXTREMELY smooth running - unlike the new vinyl door that replaced
it. House is about 45 years old and the door was original.

I also remember several 4 roller doors that were replaced when I
worked for 2 different window and door contractors a number of years
back.

Peachtree doors used top rollers, and I believe Guaranteed Products
did as well. I think their hardware was D.H.Laurence stuff, but not
sure. Some of them were horizontal rollers, not vertical - but at
least a few were vertical, set up like the screen doors but
considerably heavier.

I checked all three of the manufacturers that you mentioned and none
of them makes either a patio door, or hardware for a patio door, that
has vertical rollers top and bottom. Laurence makes horizontal roller
guides for the top of doors, and some sliding screen doors have spring
loaded top rollers, but the post of mine that you commented on has
nothing to do with either of those.

I informed the OP about sheaves rolling on a bottom track, and his
other option for a pocket door is the standard top-hung door with
rollers on a track. Attempting to use both a top and bottom track
with rollers would bind the door as there would be no allowance for
play. It would also increase the time, cost and effort to install a
simple door. In light of all that, I'm not really sure what you were
referring to in correcting my "blanket statement".

R

On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:46:52 -0700 (PDT), Limp Arbor
wrote:

I know this is an oxymoron but I am looking for a decent pocket door
for a half bath. I'm moving a few things around and the bath door
will be on a wall in the foyer right at the bottom of the steps. The
half bath will be fairly narrow, around 32", so the door can't swing
in.

Most of the other doors in the house are masonite genuine-imitation
six panel doors but none of them ar within eyeshot of where this
pocket door will be. The foyer has hardwood floors and the bath will
be tiled.

I won't have a problem if the framing of the wall the pocket door goes
in ends up being wider than 3.5". I could easily go to 5.5" or
whatever is needed.

To me it would be ideal if the pocket door also had a bottom track to
keep the door from slopping around.

So, is there such a thing as a decent pocket door?

Did you every live in NYC?

On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 21:09:27 -0700 (PDT), RicodJour
wrote:

On Mar 31, 11:07Â*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011, RicodJour wrote:
On Mar 31, 8:25Â*pm, wrote:
On Thu, 31 Mar 2011, RicodJour wrote:
On Mar 31, 9:20Â*am, Limp Arbor wrote:

I watched the video on Johnson's website and they show they little
triangle pieces at the bottom to keep the door from swinging. Â*Having
never done this I would assume the door needs to stay a little proud
of the jam so it stays engaged on those triangles.

Those little triangles extend back a little ways into the opening.
The door should be totally flush with the split jamb when it's
installed correctly.

According to the instructions on the door pocket I installed for my
daughter the door should extend just into the wall when fully closed

I'm not quite sure what that means..."should extend _just_ into the
wall"...? Â*Do you mean it should just project into the opening a
little bit? Â*If so, why? Â*There's an edge pull on a pocket door -
there's no functional reason to have the door project at all into the
opening when the door is fully recessed.

You are reading me backwards. I said when the door is fully CLOSED the
edge of the door is still inside the wall. When OPEN the opening is
totally clear.

That makes more sense than the first draft.

In other words, a 24" opening uses a 25" door with a
minimum 25" pocket.

A 25" door...ummm, where exactly are you supposed to get that? Cut it
down from a 28" door or special order it?

You mentioned in an earlier post about many patio doors having rollers
top and bottom, and I said I wasn't familiar with any. Â*Help me out -
which ones are you talking about?


Virtually all patio door screens use that setup and so does the
wood-framed patio door in our friend's Viceroy cottage (about 30 years
old). No idea what make. The wood framed patio door removed from
another friend's house also had rollers top and bottom from what I
remember.
Â*EXTREMELY smooth running - unlike the new vinyl door that replaced
it. House is about 45 years old and the door was original.

I also remember several 4 roller doors that were replaced when I
worked for 2 different window and door contractors a number of years
back.

Peachtree doors used top rollers, and I believe Guaranteed Products
did as well. I think their hardware was D.H.Laurence stuff, but not
sure. Some of them were horizontal rollers, not vertical - but at
least a few were vertical, set up like the screen doors but
considerably heavier.

I checked all three of the manufacturers that you mentioned and none
of them makes either a patio door, or hardware for a patio door, that
has vertical rollers top and bottom. Laurence makes horizontal roller
guides for the top of doors, and some sliding screen doors have spring
loaded top rollers, but the post of mine that you commented on has
nothing to do with either of those.

I informed the OP about sheaves rolling on a bottom track, and his
other option for a pocket door is the standard top-hung door with
rollers on a track. Attempting to use both a top and bottom track
with rollers would bind the door as there would be no allowance for
play. It would also increase the time, cost and effort to install a
simple door. In light of all that, I'm not really sure what you were
referring to in correcting my "blanket statement".

R
Several of the ones I saw removed had spring loaded rollers on the
top, just like the padio screen doors and I believe that;s the way the
cottage door is and the one removed from my friend's place.. As I
said, no idea who made them, and the one that was removed is now long
gone so I cannot check it. Quite possibly nobody is doing it any more
- the one's I've seen that were definitely top and bottom are all 40
or more years old now. (and all in Canada - although not necessarily
Canadian made)