On Thu, 31 Mar 2011 06:20:47 -0700 (PDT), Limp Arbor
wrote:

On Mar 30, 7:59*pm, Paul Franklin
wrote:
On Wed, 30 Mar 2011 07:46:52 -0700 (PDT), Limp Arbor





wrote:
I know this is an oxymoron but I am looking for a decent pocket door
for a half bath. *I'm moving a few things around and the bath door
will be on a wall in the foyer right at the bottom of the steps. *The
half bath will be fairly narrow, around 32", so the door can't swing
in.

Most of the other doors in the house are masonite genuine-imitation
six panel doors but none of them ar within eyeshot of where this
pocket door will be. *The foyer has hardwood floors and the bath will
be tiled.

I won't have a problem if the framing of the wall the pocket door goes
in ends up being wider than 3.5". *I could easily go to 5.5" or
whatever is needed.

To me it would be ideal if the pocket door also had a bottom track to
keep the door from slopping around.

So, is there such a thing as a decent pocket door?

One thing you can do that makes pocket doors seem higher quality is to
use a solid slab door rather than hollow. *The extra weight gives it a
quality feel and it slides smoother and *blocks noise better. *It does
require track hardware that is rated for the weight though. *On a
narrow door it's not a big deal.

I was thinking the same thing. I'll probably get a solid six panel
pine door.

Then the question becomes try to stain it to match the floor?
Stain it a complimentary shade?
Paint it white?
Let SWMBO decide?



When I did my half bath, I made a custom threshold for under the door
that had slightly raised sides that essentially created a track to
capture the bottom of the door so it didn't swing at all. *I got a lot
of compliments on how solid and smooth that door was. *I needed a
threshold anyway because of transition between floor materials, so it
was simple to build in a bottom guide track. My track kit came with a
little guide designed to prevent the door from swinging, but I liked
the solid feel of the full length guide.

I watched the video on Johnson's website and they show they little
triangle pieces at the bottom to keep the door from swinging. Having
never done this I would assume the door needs to stay a little proud
of the jam so it stays engaged on those triangles.

The plastic guides (IIRC) wrap around the edge of the jamb a little so
they will guide the door even when it is flush with the jamb when
fully open (which looks best IMO).

When you made your guide/threshold did you leave it long and
incorporate it into the framing so when the door is open the door
remains engaged in the 'track'?

I'll try to describe better. I had tile in the bath and sheet vinyl
in the hall outside; the transition between them was right under the
door. Imagine taking a 1 x 6 and laying it flat underneath the door
(over the seam between flooring types in my case) running from jamb to
jamb. Then bevel the edges a little so one doesn't catch one's foot
on it. Cut the door so it is no more than about 1/4" above the 1x6.
Now add two 1x1 strips on top of the 1x6, one on each side of the door
so they form a "track" for the whole bottom edge of the door.

Now I actually used 3/8" thick stock (not 1x) making the total
thickness only 3/4", so it wasn't a trip hazard, but you get the
picture I hope. And if you don't have a flooring seam to cover, you
can get by with only the two pieces that form the track.



Two other tips. *I bought two track kits (they weren't very expensive
compared to the cost of the job) so I could double up the thin half
studs that support the walls, putting them on 8" centers. *Those thin
studs are pretty flimsy. * I needed to stick with standard wall
thickness. *If you are willing to build a thicker wall you can use
2x4's mounted sideways to get extra beef.

I'm going to have to build a thicker wall because the 'pocket' won't
be much deeper than the wall. The half bath will only be around 7' by
32" with the door roughly midway on the 7' wall so I won't have much
remaining wall to help stiffen it up. I'm even considering using
plywood behind the drywall to make a sturdier wall.

I was adding to an existing wall so I didn't have that option without
doing a lot more demo, but you'll be fine if you can get 2x4's in
sideways on 16" centers. If you're really concerned, go to 12"
centers. I think plywood's more trouble than it's worth. Remember
there won't be a bottom plate under the door, so the studs have to be
fastened only to the floor.

And the #1 thing to get right: make sure your drywall screws are short
so they don't go through the framing into the door!

Paul F.



Finally, screw, rather than nail the trim pieces that need to be
removed to remove the door. *Makes it much easier to do repairs if
needed. *I used small head trim screws covered with color matched
putty and you could hardly see them.

You can have a quality pocket door, it just takes a little custom
work.

HTH,

Paul F.