Dolmar 5100
1.5 years old - 1 gallon of gas old (not used much)
Opti 2 oil mix with stabilizer
sparkplug has spark
starter rope pulls, feel compression, but no combustion

Before dying it was running fine.. then suddenly stopped and would not
start again. In the past is has done similar, but always restarted
later -- almost like there was some sort of overheat/overload
threshold.

The last fill of gas was from the 1 gallon container of gas that was
bought 1.5 years ago (and mixed with the 1 gallon Opti 2 mix pouch)

When I pulled off the air filter, it seems there is more dust "inside"
the filter than I would expect -- but I would expect no "visible"
dust, and there is a film along the inside of the filter.

Looking for troubleshooting ideas.

Thanks

kh fami wrote:
Dolmar 5100
1.5 years old - 1 gallon of gas old (not used much)
Opti 2 oil mix with stabilizer
sparkplug has spark
starter rope pulls, feel compression, but no combustion

Before dying it was running fine.. then suddenly stopped and would not
start again. In the past is has done similar, but always restarted
later -- almost like there was some sort of overheat/overload
threshold.

The last fill of gas was from the 1 gallon container of gas that was
bought 1.5 years ago (and mixed with the 1 gallon Opti 2 mix pouch)

When I pulled off the air filter, it seems there is more dust "inside"
the filter than I would expect -- but I would expect no "visible"
dust, and there is a film along the inside of the filter.

Looking for troubleshooting ideas.

Thanks

I have one, 70's vintage (Jonsered) that sat for a decade after my
father stipped using it. Put some fresh gas in it and it started right
up. Then It sat for another 5 years in my garage, took it out and it
started right up. Using it now to cut up 6 cord of wood, runs like a
champ. It's a 49cc.


--
LSMFT

Simple job, assist the assistant of the physicist.

kh fami wrote:
Dolmar 5100
1.5 years old - 1 gallon of gas old (not used much)
Opti 2 oil mix with stabilizer
sparkplug has spark
starter rope pulls, feel compression, but no combustion

Before dying it was running fine.. then suddenly stopped and would not
start again. In the past is has done similar, but always restarted
later -- almost like there was some sort of overheat/overload
threshold.

The last fill of gas was from the 1 gallon container of gas that was
bought 1.5 years ago (and mixed with the 1 gallon Opti 2 mix pouch)

When I pulled off the air filter, it seems there is more dust "inside"
the filter than I would expect -- but I would expect no "visible"
dust, and there is a film along the inside of the filter.

Looking for troubleshooting ideas.


Give it a dose of starter fluid in the air intake. If it won't even cough,
then I'd attack the electrical system.

On Sun, 7 Nov 2010 08:06:17 -0800 (PST), kh fami
wrote:

Dolmar 5100
1.5 years old - 1 gallon of gas old (not used much)
Opti 2 oil mix with stabilizer
sparkplug has spark
starter rope pulls, feel compression, but no combustion

Before dying it was running fine.. then suddenly stopped and would not
start again. In the past is has done similar, but always restarted
later -- almost like there was some sort of overheat/overload
threshold.

The last fill of gas was from the 1 gallon container of gas that was
bought 1.5 years ago (and mixed with the 1 gallon Opti 2 mix pouch)

When I pulled off the air filter, it seems there is more dust "inside"
the filter than I would expect -- but I would expect no "visible"
dust, and there is a film along the inside of the filter.

Looking for troubleshooting ideas.

Thanks

With the air filter removed spray the carb throat, following
directions on this product from an automotive supply store.

http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...rting-fluid/57

If it fires, but fails to keep running (after several tries) the carb
may need to be cleaned.

New fuel is also a first place to start.

Hey, Bub... He says it's got spark.

My approach would be to dump the old gas. Put in new gas mix. Remove
the spark plug. Pull the start cord a couple times, to blow out the
old gas vapor. Then, pull the choke and see if it starts on new gas.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
kh fami wrote:

Opti 2 oil mix with stabilizer
sparkplug has spark
starter rope pulls, feel compression, but no combustion


Give it a dose of starter fluid in the air intake. If it won't even
cough,
then I'd attack the electrical system.

And, how does one unclog?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"A. Baum" wrote in message
news

Looking for troubleshooting ideas.

Thanks

Clogged carb is 95% problems on small engines like these.

On Sun, 7 Nov 2010 08:06:17 -0800 (PST), kh fami
wrote:
. . .
Before dying it was running fine.. then suddenly stopped and would not
start again. . . .

The last fill of gas was from the 1 gallon container of gas that was
bought 1.5 years ago (and mixed with the 1 gallon Opti 2 mix pouch)

When I pulled off the air filter, it seems there is more dust "inside"
the filter than I would expect -- but I would expect no "visible"
dust, and there is a film along the inside of the filter.

wrote in message
...

Start of by draining it and using fresh gas.
Try squirting a little gas mix right in the carb and see if it runs a
few seconds. If so you know it is a fuel problem. Check the filter in
the tank. Check all the hoses. Clean the carb

Also pull the plug and clean and regap if needed.
Two-stroke motors crud up the plugs quickly.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

"kh fami" wrote in message
...
Dolmar 5100
1.5 years old - 1 gallon of gas old (not used much)
Opti 2 oil mix with stabilizer
sparkplug has spark
starter rope pulls, feel compression, but no combustion

Before dying it was running fine.. then suddenly stopped and would not
start again. In the past is has done similar, but always restarted
later -- almost like there was some sort of overheat/overload
threshold.

The last fill of gas was from the 1 gallon container of gas that was
bought 1.5 years ago (and mixed with the 1 gallon Opti 2 mix pouch)

When I pulled off the air filter, it seems there is more dust "inside"
the filter than I would expect -- but I would expect no "visible"
dust, and there is a film along the inside of the filter.

Looking for troubleshooting ideas.

Thanks

Disassemble, clean, and NEW gas.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Learn how to care for a friend.
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

On Nov 7, 10:06*am, kh fami wrote:
Dolmar 5100
1.5 years old - 1 gallon of gas old (not used much)
Opti 2 oil mix with stabilizer
sparkplug has spark
starter rope pulls, feel compression, but no combustion

Before dying it was running fine.. then suddenly stopped and would not
start again. *In the past is has done similar, but always restarted
later -- almost like there was some sort of overheat/overload
threshold.

The last fill of gas was from the 1 gallon container of gas that was
bought 1.5 years ago (and mixed with the 1 gallon Opti 2 mix pouch)

When I pulled off the air filter, it seems there is more dust "inside"
the filter than I would expect -- but I would expect no "visible"
dust, and there is a film along the inside of the filter.

Looking for troubleshooting ideas.

Thanks

The gas is bad, smell it, it even smells bad and motors dont start
easily on old gas. Now you have that bad gas in the carb. I would
drain out what I could and try Starting fluid to get it going, good
brands of starting fluid have oil in them. I dont keep any gas over 6
months.

kh fami wrote:
Dolmar 5100
1.5 years old - 1 gallon of gas old (not used much)
Opti 2 oil mix with stabilizer
sparkplug has spark
starter rope pulls, feel compression, but no combustion

Before dying it was running fine.. then suddenly stopped and would not
start again. In the past is has done similar, but always restarted
later -- almost like there was some sort of overheat/overload
threshold.

The last fill of gas was from the 1 gallon container of gas that was
bought 1.5 years ago (and mixed with the 1 gallon Opti 2 mix pouch)

When I pulled off the air filter, it seems there is more dust "inside"
the filter than I would expect -- but I would expect no "visible"
dust, and there is a film along the inside of the filter.

Looking for troubleshooting ideas.

Thanks

I have one, 70's vintage (Jonsered) that sat for a decade after my
father stipped using it. Put some fresh gas in it and it started right
up. Then It sat for another 5 years in my garage, took it out and it
started right up. Using it now to cut up 6 cord of wood, runs like a
champ. It's a 49cc.




--
LSMFT

Simple job, assist the assistant of the physicist.

kh fami wrote:
Dolmar 5100
1.5 years old - 1 gallon of gas old (not used much)
Opti 2 oil mix with stabilizer
sparkplug has spark
starter rope pulls, feel compression, but no combustion

Before dying it was running fine.. then suddenly stopped and would not
start again. In the past is has done similar, but always restarted
later -- almost like there was some sort of overheat/overload
threshold.

The last fill of gas was from the 1 gallon container of gas that was
bought 1.5 years ago (and mixed with the 1 gallon Opti 2 mix pouch)

When I pulled off the air filter, it seems there is more dust "inside"
the filter than I would expect -- but I would expect no "visible"
dust, and there is a film along the inside of the filter.

Looking for troubleshooting ideas.

Replace the fuel with fresh mix, then squirt a few drops into the carb, and try
to start it. If it starts on the squirted gas, then dies, try a few more time.
If it still doesn't keep running, clean and adjust the carb. You don't need
starter fluid. Gas mix should work fine.

I replaced the gas and tried pouring a bit direct into the carb - no
go. No fire at all.

Taking to the dealer today.

On Tue, 9 Nov 2010 05:39:33 -0800 (PST), kh fami
wrote:

I replaced the gas and tried pouring a bit direct into the carb - no
go. No fire at all.

Taking to the dealer today.

Please let us know what the solution is/was.

On Nov 9, 12:47*pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 9 Nov 2010 05:39:33 -0800 (PST), kh fami
wrote:

I replaced the gas and tried pouring a bit direct into the carb - no
go. * No fire at all.

Taking to the dealer today.

Please let us know what the solution is/was.

I'll take a stab at this........ I will guess a new plug would fix the
problem

Hank

Gas chain saw -- you don't plug it in. (ha-ha).

My guess is flooded, and old gas.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Hank"
wrote in message
...


Please let us know what the solution is/was.

I'll take a stab at this........ I will guess a new plug would fix the
problem

Hank

"Hank" wrote in message
...
On Nov 9, 12:47 pm, Oren wrote:
On Tue, 9 Nov 2010 05:39:33 -0800 (PST), kh fami
wrote:

I replaced the gas and tried pouring a bit direct into the carb - no
go. No fire at all.

Taking to the dealer today.

Please let us know what the solution is/was.

I'll take a stab at this........ I will guess a new plug would fix the
problem

Hank

It's a given to always have a replacement plug. Sometimes, after flooding,
the gas gets up in there, and fouls it until it either dries out, or is
dried out with a Bic lighter. I'm with you. New gas, new plug, and let us
know.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Learn how to care for a friend.
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

Rember it had spark, so don't think plug would be the cause. And I
replaced the gas with fresh.

Per the dealer -- there is cyclinder damage. They are talking to the
Dolmar rep today. I have yet to call.

This is clearly a design or component defect as the saw was bought new
in June of 2009 and used through 1 gallon of gas. The dealer noted
another saw had been brought in recently with the same issue.

I'm going to call them today.. and insist on :

1) root cause of failure
2) new saw or full refund

I simply cannot accept paying full price for a new saw that with a few
hours on it would be subjected to a major overhaul.

On Nov 10, 1:45*pm, kh fami wrote:
Rember it had spark, so don't think plug would be the cause. *And I
replaced the gas with fresh.

Per the dealer -- there is cyclinder damage. * They are talking to the
Dolmar rep today. *I have yet to call.

This is clearly a design or component defect as the saw was bought new
in June of 2009 and used through 1 gallon of gas. * The dealer noted
another saw had been brought in recently with the same issue.

I'm going to call them today.. and insist on :

1) root cause of failure
2) new saw or full refund

I simply cannot accept paying full price for a new saw that with a few
hours on it would be subjected to a major overhaul.

I know I'm talking oranges and apples, but I don't trust many dealers.
A guy brought me a Emark 14 hp Kawasaki that wouldn't start. I told
him that it was 20 degrees outside and don't work in the cold (I don't
have heat in my shop and I do repairs as a paying hobby). He took it
to the largest outdoor equipment dealer in central Ohio. He calls me
back a week or so later to say they told him that had low compression
and his cylinder was scored and he needed a new motor and what would I
charge him. I told him to bring it to me and I'll take a look at it
because they had it tore down already. I looked at it and the
cylinders wasn't scored a bit and looked great. Since he was a
previous great customer, I offered to check it out further. I found
that they never checked his valve gap and the valves had 0 gap. I re-
assembled the motor, lapped in the valves and set the gap. Started
first pull. Its been running for at least 2 years.

Hank ~~~cynical old man

kh fami wrote:
Rember it had spark, so don't think plug would be the cause. And I
replaced the gas with fresh.

Per the dealer -- there is cyclinder damage. They are talking to the
Dolmar rep today. I have yet to call.

This is clearly a design or component defect as the saw was bought new
in June of 2009 and used through 1 gallon of gas. The dealer noted
another saw had been brought in recently with the same issue.

I'm going to call them today.. and insist on :

1) root cause of failure
2) new saw or full refund

I simply cannot accept paying full price for a new saw that with a few
hours on it would be subjected to a major overhaul.

Cylinder damage could be caused by running the saw for even a short time without
the proper oil mixed fuel, or by using "starter spray".

On Wed, 10 Nov 2010 14:02:29 -0800, "Bob F"
wrote:

kh fami wrote:
Rember it had spark, so don't think plug would be the cause. And I
replaced the gas with fresh.

Per the dealer -- there is cyclinder damage. They are talking to the
Dolmar rep today. I have yet to call.

This is clearly a design or component defect as the saw was bought new
in June of 2009 and used through 1 gallon of gas. The dealer noted
another saw had been brought in recently with the same issue.

I'm going to call them today.. and insist on :

1) root cause of failure
2) new saw or full refund

I simply cannot accept paying full price for a new saw that with a few
hours on it would be subjected to a major overhaul.

Cylinder damage could be caused by running the saw for even a short time without
the proper oil mixed fuel, or by using "starter spray".


Starter spray, at least this one, has lubricants in it so harm is
really done in small engines.

"... For year-round use in cars, trucks, lawn mowers, chain saws,
marine engines and motorcycles"

http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...rting-fluid/57

MSDS is on the link.

On Wed, 10 Nov 2010 11:08:52 -0800 (PST), Hank
wrote:

On Nov 10, 1:45*pm, kh fami wrote:
Rember it had spark, so don't think plug would be the cause. *And I
replaced the gas with fresh.

Per the dealer -- there is cyclinder damage. * They are talking to the
Dolmar rep today. *I have yet to call.

This is clearly a design or component defect as the saw was bought new
in June of 2009 and used through 1 gallon of gas. * The dealer noted
another saw had been brought in recently with the same issue.

I'm going to call them today.. and insist on :

1) root cause of failure
2) new saw or full refund

I simply cannot accept paying full price for a new saw that with a few
hours on it would be subjected to a major overhaul.

I know I'm talking oranges and apples, but I don't trust many dealers.
A guy brought me a Emark 14 hp Kawasaki that wouldn't start. I told
him that it was 20 degrees outside and don't work in the cold (I don't
have heat in my shop and I do repairs as a paying hobby). He took it
to the largest outdoor equipment dealer in central Ohio. He calls me
back a week or so later to say they told him that had low compression
and his cylinder was scored and he needed a new motor and what would I
charge him. I told him to bring it to me and I'll take a look at it
because they had it tore down already. I looked at it and the
cylinders wasn't scored a bit and looked great. Since he was a
previous great customer, I offered to check it out further. I found
that they never checked his valve gap and the valves had 0 gap. I re-
assembled the motor, lapped in the valves and set the gap. Started
first pull. Its been running for at least 2 years.

Hank ~~~cynical old man

+1

Checking the valve gap and setting it is easier than breaking down the
engine... I might call it a "third" step in getting the engine to run.
Not always though -- usually simpler. than that.

On Thu, 11 Nov 2010 14:35:05 -0800, Oren wrote:

Starter spray, at least this one, has lubricants in it so [NO] harm is
really done in small engines.

"... For year-round use in cars, trucks, lawn mowers, chain saws,
marine engines and motorcycles"

http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...rting-fluid/57

MSDS is on the link.

I've seen some spray with "top cylinder lubricant".

My Dad had a generator, which didn't start, one time. It was then
killed by a "helpful" neighbor who sprayed ether into the spark plug
hole. Dried out the cylinder wall, and froze up the piston. Must have
been the old stuff.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 11 Nov 2010 14:35:05 -0800, Oren wrote:

Starter spray, at least this one, has lubricants in it so [NO] harm is
really done in small engines.

"... For year-round use in cars, trucks, lawn mowers, chain saws,
marine engines and motorcycles"

http://www.valvoline.com/products/br...rting-fluid/57

MSDS is on the link.

On Nov 11, 5:50*pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 10 Nov 2010 11:08:52 -0800 (PST), Hank
wrote:





On Nov 10, 1:45 pm, kh fami wrote:
Rember it had spark, so don't think plug would be the cause. And I
replaced the gas with fresh.

Per the dealer -- there is cyclinder damage. They are talking to the
Dolmar rep today. I have yet to call.

This is clearly a design or component defect as the saw was bought new
in June of 2009 and used through 1 gallon of gas. The dealer noted
another saw had been brought in recently with the same issue.

I'm going to call them today.. and insist on :

1) root cause of failure
2) new saw or full refund

I simply cannot accept paying full price for a new saw that with a few
hours on it would be subjected to a major overhaul.

I know I'm talking oranges and apples, but I don't trust many dealers.
A guy brought me a Emark 14 hp Kawasaki that wouldn't start. I told
him that it was 20 degrees outside and don't work in the cold (I don't
have heat in my shop and I do repairs as a paying hobby). He took it
to the largest outdoor equipment dealer in central Ohio. He calls me
back a week or so later to say they told him that had low compression
and his cylinder was scored and he needed a new motor and what would I
charge him. I told him to bring it to me and I'll take a look at it
because they had it tore down already. I looked at it and the
cylinders wasn't scored a bit and looked great. Since he was a
previous great customer, I offered to check it out further. I found
that they never checked his valve gap and the valves had 0 gap. I re-
assembled the motor, lapped in the valves and set the gap. Started
first pull. Its been running for at least 2 years.

Hank ~~~cynical old man

+1

Checking the valve gap and setting it is easier than breaking down the
engine... I might call it a "third" step in getting the engine to run.
Not always though -- usually simpler. than that.-

Not really. In order check the gap on a lot of flat head air cooled
engines, you must remove the carb/intake manifold. Also there is no
adjustment screw. To adjust them you have to remove the valve and
grind a little off, then check and do it again mkaing sure you don't
grind off too much.

Hank

On 11/11/2010 8:39 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've seen some spray with "top cylinder lubricant".

My Dad had a generator, which didn't start, one time. It was then
killed by a "helpful" neighbor who sprayed ether into the spark plug
hole. Dried out the cylinder wall, and froze up the piston. Must have
been the old stuff.


It would take a hell of a lot of ether to do damage like that. Spraying
ether into the carb of a 2 stroke to keep it running, that will kill it
fast, but one shot in the plug hole? Hard to believe.

On Nov 12, 8:31*am, Tony Miklos wrote:
On 11/11/2010 8:39 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:

I've seen some spray with "top cylinder lubricant".

My Dad had a generator, which didn't start, one time. It was then
killed by a "helpful" *neighbor who sprayed ether into the spark plug
hole. Dried out the cylinder wall, and froze up the piston. Must have
been the old stuff.

It would take a hell of a lot of ether to do damage like that. *Spraying
ether into the carb of a 2 stroke to keep it running, that will kill it
fast, but one shot in the plug hole? *Hard to believe.

I agree, if people think a few sprays will ruin an engine, that engine
was bad to begin with. Many times people replace the rings on a
noticable worn cylinder. They run a hone thru it to break the glaze
( lightly scoring the walls) and stick in a set of rings, runs like
new. Running a cylinder dry for a couple hundred strokes wont' do
much. But, I am sure there are limits.

As far as 2 strokes, I have seen many 2 stroke motorcycle engines with
deep grooves in the cylinder walls from either the circ-clip coming
out or broken ring. They still ran.

Hank

Tony Miklos wrote:
On 11/11/2010 8:39 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've seen some spray with "top cylinder lubricant".

My Dad had a generator, which didn't start, one time. It was then
killed by a "helpful" neighbor who sprayed ether into the spark plug
hole. Dried out the cylinder wall, and froze up the piston. Must have
been the old stuff.


It would take a hell of a lot of ether to do damage like that. Spraying
ether into the carb of a 2 stroke to keep it running, that will kill it
fast, but one shot in the plug hole? Hard to believe.

The admonition against ether for gas engines (either 2- or 4-stroke) is
primarily owing to compression and fear of damaging head or such by an
excessive over-pressure event. Diesels, otoh, being designed for much
higher compression ratios, have the stoutness to handle it.

So, it's possible it was something mechanical that broke which caused
the problem but agreed a single start cycle wouldn't have killed it for
the cause of no lube owing to ether.

--

I got to bring the locked-up generator home. I used a large wrench to
turn the flywheel. It did occur to me to pump some oil in the
cylinder, but I did not. Dont have to, it's splash lubricated, right?

The generator did start, ran for a fraction of a second, and the
piston rod broke. Knocked a hole in the side of the engine. I'll
admit, I'm embarassed at the crude language I used, for many minutes.
I sold the wreck on ebay for about $75.

I retell the story in hopes to save others from making the same
mistake.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Tony Miklos" wrote in message
...
On 11/11/2010 8:39 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've seen some spray with "top cylinder lubricant".

My Dad had a generator, which didn't start, one time. It was then
killed by a "helpful" neighbor who sprayed ether into the spark
plug
hole. Dried out the cylinder wall, and froze up the piston. Must
have
been the old stuff.


It would take a hell of a lot of ether to do damage like that.
Spraying
ether into the carb of a 2 stroke to keep it running, that will kill
it
fast, but one shot in the plug hole? Hard to believe.

Yes, that's a good idea. Keep it away from small children who like to
blow bubbles, pretend to wash dishes, etc.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


wrote in message
...

It is a lot better to just use the regular gas mix in a small valve
top squeeze bottle. Certainly cheaper and no worries about having the
right lubrication.

My sister and her yuppie boyfriend had the generator. I'm guessing
less than 20 or 30 hours of run time on it. The thing stopped working,
and they gave it to me. (Thanks!). I was able to find the problem, fix
it, and I put maybe another two hours on it.

Coleman 5,000 watt generator, with two 120 VAC sockets, and a 220 VAC
twist lock.

Is the story believable? Well, I can't document it. Maybe some where
in the ether are my old Ebay sale records, but I doubt it. You can
take my word for it, or not. It's no nevermind to me.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Hank" wrote in message
...


It would take a hell of a lot of ether to do damage like that.
Spraying
ether into the carb of a 2 stroke to keep it running, that will kill
it
fast, but one shot in the plug hole? Hard to believe.

I agree, if people think a few sprays will ruin an engine, that engine
was bad to begin with. Many times people replace the rings on a
noticable worn cylinder. They run a hone thru it to break the glaze
( lightly scoring the walls) and stick in a set of rings, runs like
new. Running a cylinder dry for a couple hundred strokes wont' do
much. But, I am sure there are limits.

Hank

On Thu, 11 Nov 2010 20:39:59 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've seen some spray with "top cylinder lubricant".

My Dad had a generator, which didn't start, one time. It was then
killed by a "helpful" neighbor who sprayed ether into the spark plug
hole. Dried out the cylinder wall, and froze up the piston. Must have
been the old stuff.

I growed up under a shade tree. Remove the plug, use the favorite oil
gun and squirt a few drops into the cylinder, rotate and spray some
liquid explosive - gas/spray, etc.

The dang motor will fire if it has spark and not send shrapnel flying.

On 11/12/2010 6:54 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
My sister and her yuppie boyfriend had the generator. I'm guessing
less than 20 or 30 hours of run time on it. The thing stopped working,
and they gave it to me. (Thanks!). I was able to find the problem, fix
it, and I put maybe another two hours on it.

Coleman 5,000 watt generator, with two 120 VAC sockets, and a 220 VAC
twist lock.

Is the story believable? Well, I can't document it. Maybe some where
in the ether are my old Ebay sale records, but I doubt it. You can
take my word for it, or not. It's no nevermind to me.

Oh, and I was thinking 2 stroke, 4 stroke makes it about 100 times less
believable. Hell, there would be thousands of all kinds of motors
dieing everyday if ether was that harmful.

On 11/12/2010 6:50 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I got to bring the locked-up generator home. I used a large wrench to
turn the flywheel. It did occur to me to pump some oil in the
cylinder, but I did not. Dont have to, it's splash lubricated, right?

The generator did start, ran for a fraction of a second, and the
piston rod broke. Knocked a hole in the side of the engine. I'll
admit, I'm embarassed at the crude language I used, for many minutes.
I sold the wreck on ebay for about $75.

I retell the story in hopes to save others from making the same
mistake.


Maybe he used a whole can of ether on it?

So dealer says it's cyclinder/piston damage as a result of dirt
getting through. They say they talked to Dolmar and Dolmar will
cover under warranty but they will not replace the saw. Given it has
run through only 1 gal of gas (with Opti2), and they don't know the
cause of the problem, I'm insisting on a new saw.

Saying they have fixed the problem, but don't know the cause, seems
like fools gold to me.

I did notice what seemed like a lot of dirt inside the air cleaner.
There was an oily black film that I could wipe out with my finger. I
don't know if that's expected or not, but it seemed to me like the air
cleaner was not working.

If they have not fixed the source of the problem -- then repairing the
cylinder/piston is of little value. Also, I had to ask several times
before they said "oh yes, the piston was replaced also". So this
whole ordeal is getting a little shady to me.

I'm trying to call Dolmar direct and get a new saw.

I live in Stihl country -- and if this dealer / Dolmar does not want
to do it right, not only will it be the last Dolmar I buy, I can
assure them I will do my very best that it's the last one they sell.
It will start with a deluge of posts on message boards and will come
up on just about every conversation I have with neighbors, friends,
and family.

On Mon, 15 Nov 2010 09:19:35 -0800 (PST), kh fami
wrote:

So dealer says it's cyclinder/piston damage as a result of dirt
getting through. They say they talked to Dolmar and Dolmar will
cover under warranty but they will not replace the saw. Given it has
run through only 1 gal of gas (with Opti2), and they don't know the
cause of the problem, I'm insisting on a new saw.

Saying they have fixed the problem, but don't know the cause, seems
like fools gold to me.

Things break. Happens all the time. A truck I have started to gallop
and buck like a horse with only 25.000 miles. I explained to the
service manager that it seems like the transmission.

He called me later at home. "We ordered a new factory transmission!"
It will be here in a day or so. I really didn't need details of
exactly how something broke.

I did notice what seemed like a lot of dirt inside the air cleaner.
There was an oily black film that I could wipe out with my finger. I
don't know if that's expected or not, but it seemed to me like the air
cleaner was not working.


Ensure the air filter is installed in the correct orientation.

If they have not fixed the source of the problem -- then repairing the
cylinder/piston is of little value. Also, I had to ask several times
before they said "oh yes, the piston was replaced also". So this
whole ordeal is getting a little shady to me.

I'm trying to call Dolmar direct and get a new saw.

I live in Stihl country -- and if this dealer / Dolmar does not want
to do it right, not only will it be the last Dolmar I buy, I can
assure them I will do my very best that it's the last one they sell.
It will start with a deluge of posts on message boards and will come
up on just about every conversation I have with neighbors, friends,
and family.

I worked with a guy that got into a big beef with the water utility
company. Stopped paying his bill, so the company turned off his water.
Could not ****, shower or shave. He was going to bring the company to
their knees and make them suffer.

I advised him to grow flowers in his toilet, until he brought these
heathens to justice.

I believe in sharing fair and honest information.

In this case Dolmar is claiming the damage is from the dealer's
recommendation to use Opti 2 oil at the pouch per 1 gallon ratio,
which I believes comes out to about 70:1. Dealer says cause of
failure is due to defective air filter. I used the saw for 1 gallon
of gas. Maybe that is 10 hours. I liken that to buying a new car,
driving it 1000 miles and the engine freezes. I expect a new car,
not a new engine. Do these guys really believe I'm going to every
buy Dolmar again? Simple logic -- saw is like new, cost to repair is
$200, cost of new is $400. A $200 savings to them now is going to
result in me never buying Dolmar again, probably not going back to
this dealer for anything else, and always talking poorly about this
experience. Was it worth it?

"kh fami" wrote in message
...
I believe in sharing fair and honest information.

In this case Dolmar is claiming the damage is from the dealer's
recommendation to use Opti 2 oil at the pouch per 1 gallon ratio,
which I believes comes out to about 70:1. Dealer says cause of
failure is due to defective air filter. I used the saw for 1 gallon
of gas. Maybe that is 10 hours. I liken that to buying a new car,
driving it 1000 miles and the engine freezes. I expect a new car,
not a new engine. Do these guys really believe I'm going to every
buy Dolmar again? Simple logic -- saw is like new, cost to repair is
$200, cost of new is $400. A $200 savings to them now is going to
result in me never buying Dolmar again, probably not going back to
this dealer for anything else, and always talking poorly about this
experience. Was it worth it?


If they can prove it, they, or you, should go after the dealer. Opti 2
recommends the 1.8 oz pack per gallon. Maybe go after them?

I cannot think of a single way the air filter would cause engine failure
unless it was absent.

On Nov 19, 5:08*pm, kh fami wrote:
I believe in sharing fair and honest information.

In this case Dolmar is claiming the damage is from the dealer's
recommendation to use Opti 2 oil at the pouch per 1 gallon ratio,
which I believes comes out to about 70:1. *Dealer says cause of
failure is due to defective air filter. * I used the saw for 1 gallon
of gas. * Maybe that is 10 hours. * *I liken that to buying a new car,
driving it 1000 miles and the engine freezes. * I expect a new car,
not a new engine. * Do these guys really believe I'm going to every
buy Dolmar again? * Simple logic -- saw is like new, cost to repair is
$200, cost of new is $400. * A $200 savings to them now is going to
result in me never buying Dolmar again, probably not going back to
this dealer for anything else, and always talking poorly about this
experience. * Was it worth it?

I doubt you are going to put them out of business. It should be like
new when you get it back. Altho I understand your frustration, is it
worth getting your blood pressure all elevated, people thinking you're
a raving lunatic for nothing more than a prettier saw?

Hank ~~~ Thinks KH should chill out a little

"kh fami" wrote in message
...
I believe in sharing fair and honest information.

In this case Dolmar is claiming the damage is from the dealer's
recommendation to use Opti 2 oil at the pouch per 1 gallon ratio,
which I believes comes out to about 70:1. Dealer says cause of
failure is due to defective air filter. I used the saw for 1 gallon
of gas. Maybe that is 10 hours. I liken that to buying a new car,
driving it 1000 miles and the engine freezes. I expect a new car,
not a new engine. Do these guys really believe I'm going to every
buy Dolmar again? Simple logic -- saw is like new, cost to repair is
$200, cost of new is $400. A $200 savings to them now is going to
result in me never buying Dolmar again, probably not going back to
this dealer for anything else, and always talking poorly about this
experience. Was it worth it?

If it was me, I'd take a lunch, and go walk on the PUBLIC sidewalk in front
of the business with a sign that says in colorful letters, CAUTION - DOLMAR
IS CRAP! You cannot block a driveway, but you can walk slowly across it so
people have a long time to read your sign. You may not enter the roadway,
or put your sign into traffic. You may not approach people and tell them
your story, but you can respond if they ask first. You cannot touch anyone
with your sign, so hold it vertical so you don't accidentally pop someone.
These are the laws, and if you stay within the law, you're good to go.

I bet you're not out there until it is time to eat your lunch. If they
don't make it right, the next day, take a friend.

I bet they make it right.

Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Learn how to care for a friend.
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com


Steve

Heart surgery pending?
Read up and prepare.
Learn how to care for a friend.
http://cabgbypasssurgery.com

On Sat, 20 Nov 2010 15:43:41 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


"kh fami" wrote in message
...
I believe in sharing fair and honest information.

In this case Dolmar is claiming the damage is from the dealer's
recommendation to use Opti 2 oil at the pouch per 1 gallon ratio,
which I believes comes out to about 70:1. Dealer says cause of
failure is due to defective air filter. I used the saw for 1 gallon
of gas. Maybe that is 10 hours. I liken that to buying a new car,
driving it 1000 miles and the engine freezes. I expect a new car,
not a new engine. Do these guys really believe I'm going to every
buy Dolmar again? Simple logic -- saw is like new, cost to repair is
$200, cost of new is $400. A $200 savings to them now is going to
result in me never buying Dolmar again, probably not going back to
this dealer for anything else, and always talking poorly about this
experience. Was it worth it?

If it was me, I'd take a lunch, and go walk on the PUBLIC sidewalk in front
of the business with a sign that says in colorful letters, CAUTION - DOLMAR
IS CRAP! You cannot block a driveway, but you can walk slowly across it so
people have a long time to read your sign. You may not enter the roadway,
or put your sign into traffic. You may not approach people and tell them
your story, but you can respond if they ask first. You cannot touch anyone
with your sign, so hold it vertical so you don't accidentally pop someone.
These are the laws, and if you stay within the law, you're good to go.

I bet you're not out there until it is time to eat your lunch. If they
don't make it right, the next day, take a friend.

I bet they make it right.


A homeless man in Miami felt ripped off by his lawyers. He found out
the name of the company or something was not a registered trademark or
copyright?

Later, the lawyers bought back the rights to use the name (S).