Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

Ever since it was new, my two-stroke Sears Craftsman 358351.800 18" 40cc
chain saw has been miserable to start and even worse to run. Even when new,
I could never release my finger on the trigger for fear of the Craftsman
chainsaw conking out and not restarting for another 20 minutes of pulling
the string.

The Sears Craftsman 358351 chain saw is now about a year old, and I've got
only about 3 or 4 hours on it (a few tanks of gas and bar oil) but it now
won't even start anymore except when left overnight. Even then, it only
runs until I lift my finger off the trigger and it conks out and won't
start again. I'm so sorry I didn't read Craftsman chain saw reviews because
I'm sure this is a design flaw (maybe because it's a California low-smog
chainsaw?).

Anyway, I'm stuck with it.

I replaced the Champion RCJ7Y spark plug, the felt air filter, and put a
newly bought newly mixed 40:1 gasolineil mixture in the tank; but it's
STILL hard to start.

Following owners manual instructions, I set the choke to full on, I press
the accelerator pump 6x, I pull the starter cord 5 times, I set the choke
to 1/2 position, I pull the starter cord a half dozen more times, and, more
often than not, it does not start.

I called Sears' 800 number but they only sell parts; the guy told me to
tune the carbeurator but I don't know what that procedure is.

Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

On Aug 19, 2:57*pm, SF Man wrote:
Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

Ever since it was new, my two-stroke Sears Craftsman 358351.800 18" 40cc
chain saw has been miserable to start and even worse to run. Even when new,
I could never release my finger on the trigger for fear of the Craftsman
chainsaw conking out and not restarting for another 20 minutes of pulling
the string.

The Sears Craftsman 358351 chain saw is now about a year old, and I've got
only about 3 or 4 hours on it (a few tanks of gas and bar oil) but it now
won't even start anymore except when left overnight. Even then, it only
runs until I lift my finger off the trigger and it conks out and won't
start again. I'm so sorry I didn't read Craftsman chain saw reviews because
I'm sure this is a design flaw (maybe because it's a California low-smog
chainsaw?). *

Anyway, I'm stuck with it.

I replaced the Champion RCJ7Y spark plug, the felt air filter, and put a
newly bought newly mixed 40:1 gasolineil mixture in the tank; but it's
STILL hard to start.

Following owners manual instructions, I set the choke to full on, I press
the accelerator pump 6x, I pull the starter cord 5 times, I set the choke
to 1/2 position, I pull the starter cord a half dozen more times, and, more
often than not, it does not start.

I called Sears' 800 number but they only sell parts; the guy told me to
tune the carbeurator but I don't know what that procedure is.

Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

I remove the screen spark arrestors on the muffler outlet and it
helps, but leaving any gas in it for a few months can gum up a carb,
if its under warranty why mess with it , A quick search and I see it
has high reviews, dont you have a manual that shows carb settings,
sears online should have the manual then clean the carb.

On Aug 19, 1:57*pm, SF Man wrote:
Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

Ever since it was new, my two-stroke Sears Craftsman 358351.800 18" 40cc
chain saw has been miserable to start and even worse to run. Even when new,
I could never release my finger on the trigger for fear of the Craftsman
chainsaw conking out and not restarting for another 20 minutes of pulling
the string.

The Sears Craftsman 358351 chain saw is now about a year old, and I've got
only about 3 or 4 hours on it (a few tanks of gas and bar oil) but it now
won't even start anymore except when left overnight. Even then, it only
runs until I lift my finger off the trigger and it conks out and won't
start again. I'm so sorry I didn't read Craftsman chain saw reviews because
I'm sure this is a design flaw (maybe because it's a California low-smog
chainsaw?). *

Anyway, I'm stuck with it.

I replaced the Champion RCJ7Y spark plug, the felt air filter, and put a
newly bought newly mixed 40:1 gasolineil mixture in the tank; but it's
STILL hard to start.

Following owners manual instructions, I set the choke to full on, I press
the accelerator pump 6x, I pull the starter cord 5 times, I set the choke
to 1/2 position, I pull the starter cord a half dozen more times, and, more
often than not, it does not start.

I called Sears' 800 number but they only sell parts; the guy told me to
tune the carbeurator but I don't know what that procedure is.

Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

==
The chainsaw is probably made by Poulon (mine is). Try them...they
have operator's manual for download if you could quote a similar model
number,

==

On Aug 19, 1:57*pm, SF Man wrote:
Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

Ever since it was new, my two-stroke Sears Craftsman 358351.800 18" 40cc
chain saw has been miserable to start and even worse to run. Even when new,
I could never release my finger on the trigger for fear of the Craftsman
chainsaw conking out and not restarting for another 20 minutes of pulling
the string.

The Sears Craftsman 358351 chain saw is now about a year old, and I've got
only about 3 or 4 hours on it (a few tanks of gas and bar oil) but it now
won't even start anymore except when left overnight. Even then, it only
runs until I lift my finger off the trigger and it conks out and won't
start again. I'm so sorry I didn't read Craftsman chain saw reviews because
I'm sure this is a design flaw (maybe because it's a California low-smog
chainsaw?). *

Anyway, I'm stuck with it.

I replaced the Champion RCJ7Y spark plug, the felt air filter, and put a
newly bought newly mixed 40:1 gasolineil mixture in the tank; but it's
STILL hard to start.

Following owners manual instructions, I set the choke to full on, I press
the accelerator pump 6x, I pull the starter cord 5 times, I set the choke
to 1/2 position, I pull the starter cord a half dozen more times, and, more
often than not, it does not start.

I called Sears' 800 number but they only sell parts; the guy told me to
tune the carbeurator but I don't know what that procedure is.

Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

==
From fixya.com

Try removing the fuel cap for a moment, then try restart. If ok, check
the fuel vent for plugging. Check the fuel filter for plugging.
Inspect the fuel lines for decay or other damage. Check for spark when
it stops--it may be the ignition module failing when hot. Check for
sawdust and dirt plugging the ventilation system--blow it out with
compressed air. Does the engine 4-stroke at speed when not cutting,
but does 2-stroke when cutting? Make sure the chain is being oiled
while running. Hope this helps!

note: fuel vent is the little hole in the cap. If this hole is
completely plugged the motor won't run or will run erratically.

==

On Aug 19, 3:42*pm, Roy wrote:
On Aug 19, 1:57*pm, SF Man wrote:



Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

Ever since it was new, my two-stroke Sears Craftsman 358351.800 18" 40cc
chain saw has been miserable to start and even worse to run. Even when new,
I could never release my finger on the trigger for fear of the Craftsman
chainsaw conking out and not restarting for another 20 minutes of pulling
the string.

The Sears Craftsman 358351 chain saw is now about a year old, and I've got
only about 3 or 4 hours on it (a few tanks of gas and bar oil) but it now
won't even start anymore except when left overnight. Even then, it only
runs until I lift my finger off the trigger and it conks out and won't
start again. I'm so sorry I didn't read Craftsman chain saw reviews because
I'm sure this is a design flaw (maybe because it's a California low-smog
chainsaw?). *

Anyway, I'm stuck with it.

I replaced the Champion RCJ7Y spark plug, the felt air filter, and put a
newly bought newly mixed 40:1 gasolineil mixture in the tank; but it's
STILL hard to start.

Following owners manual instructions, I set the choke to full on, I press
the accelerator pump 6x, I pull the starter cord 5 times, I set the choke
to 1/2 position, I pull the starter cord a half dozen more times, and, more
often than not, it does not start.

I called Sears' 800 number but they only sell parts; the guy told me to
tune the carbeurator but I don't know what that procedure is.

Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

==
The chainsaw is probably made by Poulon (mine is). Try them...they
have operator's manual for download if you could quote a similar model
number,

==

Whoops...that should be Poulan...a spellin' error.
==

On Aug 19, 3:57*pm, SF Man wrote:
Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

Ever since it was new, my two-stroke Sears Craftsman 358351.800 18" 40cc
chain saw has been miserable to start and even worse to run. Even when new,
I could never release my finger on the trigger for fear of the Craftsman
chainsaw conking out and not restarting for another 20 minutes of pulling
the string.

The Sears Craftsman 358351 chain saw is now about a year old, and I've got
only about 3 or 4 hours on it (a few tanks of gas and bar oil) but it now
won't even start anymore except when left overnight. Even then, it only
runs until I lift my finger off the trigger and it conks out and won't
start again. I'm so sorry I didn't read Craftsman chain saw reviews because
I'm sure this is a design flaw (maybe because it's a California low-smog
chainsaw?). *

Anyway, I'm stuck with it.

I replaced the Champion RCJ7Y spark plug, the felt air filter, and put a
newly bought newly mixed 40:1 gasolineil mixture in the tank; but it's
STILL hard to start.

Following owners manual instructions, I set the choke to full on, I press
the accelerator pump 6x, I pull the starter cord 5 times, I set the choke
to 1/2 position, I pull the starter cord a half dozen more times, and, more
often than not, it does not start.

I called Sears' 800 number but they only sell parts; the guy told me to
tune the carbeurator but I don't know what that procedure is.

Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

It sounds like you are flooding it when you try to start it. Try this
way.....first take out the plug and let it sit overnight to make sure
ther isn't any gas in cylinder. The next day put the plug back in and
only push the primer bulb 2-3 times at most. Turn choke to full. If it
don't start within 3 pulls, take the choke off, hold the throttle wide
open and pull a few more times. If it stil doesn't start, take it to
someone who knows how to adjust your carb. Some carbs need a special
tool anyway. If you want to try to adjust it and the stops are not on
it, turn both screws clockwise until they stop, then back them both
out about 1 1/4 turn, then get it running and adjust both at full
speed and idle.

Hank

The mush button for the gas is the primer. Try it x2 pushes, instead
of six. Sounds like you're flooding the hell out of it.

Look for small slotted screw that turns up the idle (I'm no help to
say where that might be).

Mix a galon of brand new gas. Use name brand (Mobil, Exxon, Hess, BP)
not the cheap brands like Road Apple Quick Fill.

Make sure it's not a Champion brand plug. they had a run of defects.
I've bought Autolite, or NGK. If it fails to start, look at the spark
plug. Wet? Flooded. My gut sense is that you're flooding the system
with too much gas. "won't start till the next day" is the clue. Gives
the gas a chance to dry out.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"SF Man" wrote in message
...

Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears
Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

Ever since it was new, my two-stroke Sears Craftsman 358351.800 18"
40cc
chain saw has been miserable to start and even worse to run. Even when
new,
I could never release my finger on the trigger for fear of the
Craftsman
chainsaw conking out and not restarting for another 20 minutes of
pulling
the string.

The Sears Craftsman 358351 chain saw is now about a year old, and I've
got
only about 3 or 4 hours on it (a few tanks of gas and bar oil) but it
now
won't even start anymore except when left overnight. Even then, it
only
runs until I lift my finger off the trigger and it conks out and won't
start again. I'm so sorry I didn't read Craftsman chain saw reviews
because
I'm sure this is a design flaw (maybe because it's a California
low-smog
chainsaw?).

Anyway, I'm stuck with it.

I replaced the Champion RCJ7Y spark plug, the felt air filter, and put
a
newly bought newly mixed 40:1 gasolineil mixture in the tank; but
it's
STILL hard to start.

Following owners manual instructions, I set the choke to full on, I
press
the accelerator pump 6x, I pull the starter cord 5 times, I set the
choke
to 1/2 position, I pull the starter cord a half dozen more times, and,
more
often than not, it does not start.

I called Sears' 800 number but they only sell parts; the guy told me
to
tune the carbeurator but I don't know what that procedure is.

Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears
Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 12:57:45 -0700, SF Man
wrote:


Do you know where to find the tune-up procedure for the Sears Craftsman
358.351.800 18 inch chain saw?

Ever since it was new, my two-stroke Sears Craftsman 358351.800 18" 40cc
chain saw has been miserable to start and even worse to run. Even when new,
I could never release my finger on the trigger for fear of the Craftsman
chainsaw conking out and not restarting for another 20 minutes of pulling
the string.

The Sears Craftsman 358351 chain saw is now about a year old, and I've got
only about 3 or 4 hours on it (a few tanks of gas and bar oil) but it now
won't even start anymore except when left overnight. Even then, it only
runs until I lift my finger off the trigger and it conks out and won't
start again. I'm so sorry I didn't read Craftsman chain saw reviews because
I'm sure this is a design flaw (maybe because it's a California low-smog
chainsaw?).

Anyway, I'm stuck with it.

I replaced the Champion RCJ7Y spark plug, the felt air filter, and put a
newly bought newly mixed 40:1 gasolineil mixture in the tank; but it's
STILL hard to start.

Did you check the plug gap and set it? I'm not a fan of plugs that
are pre-gapped. Male sure the plug has the proper heat range.

Following owners manual instructions, I set the choke to full on, I press
the accelerator pump 6x, I pull the starter cord 5 times, I set the choke
to 1/2 position, I pull the starter cord a half dozen more times, and, more
often than not, it does not start.


Follow the advise given here already about adjusting the carb
jet/screws. I tend to adjust them while the engine is running -- tune
by ear.

If the screws are bottomed-out, usually back it off to 1.25 - 1.5
turns out. That will get you in the ball park.

Pierce the gas cap vent hole with a paper clip so make sure the hole
is open and vents the fuel tank.

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:50:07 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Make sure it's not a Champion brand plug. they had a run of defects.

I know that happened 30 years ago. That dead horse has bruises?

Is there the same issue? Now, today...

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 17:34:04 -0700, Oren wrote:
If the screws are bottomed-out, usually back it off to
1.25 - 1.5 turns

Your problem may be no spark. Check the coils to see if they're putting
out enough voltage.

On 2010-08-19, SF Man wrote:

Ever since it was new, my two-stroke Sears Craftsman 358351.800 18" 40cc
chain saw has been miserable to start and even worse to run. Even when new,
I could never release my finger on the trigger for fear of the Craftsman
chainsaw conking out and not restarting for another 20 minutes of pulling
the string.

That's the day you should have returned it to Sears for exchange or
your money back. Doesn't the Craftsman lifetime gaurantee apply to
motorized tools? Now you know why I haven't bought a Sears Craftsman
anything for 30 yrs!

nb

On Fri, 20 Aug 2010 23:36:49 +0000 (UTC), jm wrote:

Your problem may be no spark. Check the coils to see if they're putting
out enough voltage.

What's the best way to check if there is spark?

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 14:42:04 -0700 (PDT), Roy wrote:
The chainsaw is probably made by Poulan

I went to Ace Hardware today and saw some Poulan chain saws ... and you're
right I think. The motor looks pretty similar, even down to the muffler and
choke and on/off switch arrangement.

I'll see if Poulan has a tune up procedure.

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 14:54:51 -0700 (PDT), Roy wrote:

Check the fuel filter for plugging.
Inspect the fuel lines for decay or other damage.

Fuel filter?

I didn't know a 2-stroke chain saw has a fuel filter. Gotta look for that.

I did clean the whole thing out with compressed air to no avail. Wouldn't
even start this morning. Something must have happened as I couldn't start
it at all.

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 15:28:41 -0700 (PDT), Hustlin' Hank wrote:
Following owners manual instructions, I set the choke to full on, I press
the accelerator pump 6x, I pull the starter cord 5 times, I set the choke
to 1/2 position, I pull the starter cord a half dozen more times, and, more
often than not, it does not start.

It sounds like you are flooding it when you try to start it.

I understand that 6x is a lot of accelerator pump but it says so in
multiple spots on the chain saw covers. The first thing the Sears 800
technical support asked is whether I pressed the bulb six times before
doing anything else.

Maybe it's a California thing; but 6x is the recommended number.

I'm beginning to wonder if I lost spark ... since it has gas and air ...

Is there a way to tell if it has a spark?

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:50:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

The mush button for the gas is the primer. Try it x2 pushes, instead
of six. Sounds like you're flooding the hell out of it.

It would NEVER start with just 2x. The owners manual says to use 6x; the
bulb has a 6x embossed just below it; and the complex starting instructions
on the sticker on the side say 6x. Even when new, it barely started with
6x. It took more like 8x to 10x.

Dunno if it's a California thing or not but it just never ran well.

From what people say, I either need to mess with the screws on the carb or
I need to find why (if) it doesn't have spark.

I can easily mess with the screws (after finding the procedure somewhere)
.... but how do I tell if it doesn't have spark?

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:50:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Make sure it's not a Champion brand plug. they had a run of defects.
I've bought Autolite, or NGK. If it fails to start, look at the spark
plug. Wet? Flooded.

Champion RCJ7Y. None of the stores carried that but they told me a Champion
CJ7Y (without the R) is the same thing so that's what I put in there.

The plug, when pulled out hot, is dry as a bone so I'm pretty sure flooding
isn't the culprit. I'm beginning to suspect either the plugged fuel filter
(I didn't know chain saws HAD a fuel filter) or the spark coils are bad.

Don't know how to test the coils though.

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 17:34:04 -0700, Oren wrote:

Did you check the plug gap and set it? I'm not a fan of plugs that
are pre-gapped. Male sure the plug has the proper heat range.

The plug went in correctly. The only difference was I couldn't find the
Champion RCJ7Y so I had to put in a CJ7Y.

Do you think it matters?

The store guys said it wouldn't.

On Fri, 20 Aug 2010 23:48:36 GMT, notbob wrote:

Doesn't the Craftsman lifetime gaurantee apply to motorized tools?

AFAIK, the "lifetime guarantee" only applies to tools sans moving parts
(for the most part).

So, anything with a motor isn't covered.

On Fri, 20 Aug 2010 20:02:04 -0700, SF Man wrote:

On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:50:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Make sure it's not a Champion brand plug. they had a run of defects.
I've bought Autolite, or NGK. If it fails to start, look at the spark
plug. Wet? Flooded.

Champion RCJ7Y. None of the stores carried that but they told me a Champion
CJ7Y (without the R) is the same thing so that's what I put in there.

The plug, when pulled out hot, is dry as a bone so I'm pretty sure flooding
isn't the culprit. I'm beginning to suspect either the plugged fuel filter
(I didn't know chain saws HAD a fuel filter) or the spark coils are bad.

Don't know how to test the coils though.

If the plug is hot, it's prbably firing. You can check this by pulling the
plug, resting it against some metal and hold the saw steady while you yank
the cord (have someone help, just keep them away from the blade!)

If it sparks, start looking for fuel not getting there.

Um, when I was in telephone support, they told us the FIRST question to
ask was, Is it plugged in? I said, "you're kidding!" 30% of most problems
were because it wasn't...

So, full tank? Fresh gas? And, is the fuel shut off closed?

SF Man wrote:
On Fri, 20 Aug 2010 23:48:36 GMT, notbob wrote:

Doesn't the Craftsman lifetime gaurantee apply to motorized tools?

AFAIK, the "lifetime guarantee" only applies to tools sans moving parts
(for the most part).

So, anything with a motor isn't covered.

You will have to ground the spark plug which isn't easy with all the
plastic on today's chainsaws. I'm assuming you have a good spark
though. I imagine what you will find is the typical set to run as lean
as possible until it's out of warranty small engine. They do this to
pass emissions tests. The carbs aren't adjustable as they come from the
factory, some you can pull the plastic stops off the mixture screw and
get a little more fuel to them some don't have the adjustment screws
anymore. You can buy a new carb cheap on e-bay. cheaper than buying a
kit and trying to fix one. With a little luck it will have both low and
high speed mixture screws and you can get the chainsaw running better
than new. And the fuel lines turn to gum especially with gasohol, and
it goes on and on...... If you do get a replacement carb be sure to get
the right one for your model engine
Unless you like messing with small engines it might be best to find
someone that works on them to get it usable. They should know all the
tricks. Ask around and find someone that fixes small engines part time
or for a hobby otherwise it won't be cost effective.

It is hard for a zebra to change its spots (or some similar quote
atributed to Al Gore.)

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Oren" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:50:07 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Make sure it's not a Champion brand plug. they had a run of defects.

I know that happened 30 years ago. That dead horse has bruises?

Is there the same issue? Now, today...

Sounds like you spend all your time poulan on the start cord?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"SF Man" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 14:42:04 -0700 (PDT), Roy wrote:
The chainsaw is probably made by Poulan

I went to Ace Hardware today and saw some Poulan chain saws ... and
you're
right I think. The motor looks pretty similar, even down to the
muffler and
choke and on/off switch arrangement.

I'll see if Poulan has a tune up procedure.

Fuel filter is in the gas tank. There is a rubber tube, and the filter
often has a weight, so that it stays on the bottom of the tank, as you
tip the saw back and forth. You'll need a paper clip bent into a
J-hook to pull the rubber hose and filter out.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"SF Man" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 14:54:51 -0700 (PDT), Roy wrote:

Check the fuel filter for plugging.
Inspect the fuel lines for decay or other damage.

Fuel filter?

I didn't know a 2-stroke chain saw has a fuel filter. Gotta look for
that.

I did clean the whole thing out with compressed air to no avail.
Wouldn't
even start this morning. Something must have happened as I couldn't
start
it at all.

On Aug 20, 9:55*pm, SF Man wrote:
On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:50:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:
The mush button for the gas is the primer. Try it x2 pushes, instead
of six. Sounds like you're flooding the hell out of it.

It would NEVER start with just 2x. The owners manual says to use 6x; the
bulb has a 6x embossed just below it; and the complex starting instructions
on the sticker on the side say 6x. Even when new, it barely started with
6x. It took more like 8x to 10x.

Dunno if it's a California thing or not but it just never ran well.

From what people say, I either need to mess with the screws on the carb or
I need to find why (if) it doesn't have spark.

I can easily mess with the screws (after finding the procedure somewhere)
... but how do I tell if it doesn't have spark?

As far as the run and idle screws...I start at 1 to 1.25 turns backed-
out. The carbs on new stuff is pretty much crap these days.

Same as lawn mower. Take the spark plug out, and hold it to a metal
part of the body. Move to a dark area so you can see the spark easier.
Switch to "RUN". Pull rip cord, look for spark at the plug gap.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"SF Man"
wrote in message ...

Is there a way to tell if it has a spark?

Hmm. If the spark plug comes out dry, that's a good clue.

You could put a couple drops of gas mix into the spark plug hole and
see if it runs for a second or two. I've also sprayed ether on the air
filter, that is a symptom check for fuel starvation. Only want to run
it for an instant, as the saw relies on the oil mixed in with the gas
to lube the crankcase bearings, rod bearings, and piston rings.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"SF Man" wrote in message
...

The plug, when pulled out hot, is dry as a bone so I'm pretty sure
flooding
isn't the culprit. I'm beginning to suspect either the plugged fuel
filter
(I didn't know chain saws HAD a fuel filter) or the spark coils are
bad.

Don't know how to test the coils though.

On 2010-08-21, SF Man wrote:
On Fri, 20 Aug 2010 23:48:36 GMT, notbob wrote:

Doesn't the Craftsman lifetime gaurantee apply to motorized tools?

AFAIK, the "lifetime guarantee" only applies to tools sans moving parts
(for the most part).

So, anything with a motor isn't covered.

The last time I held Sears to their gaurantee was on a Craftman
electric weed eater. The design was such that after new line was let
out via the bump line release (which worked pretty well), a blade on a
plastic bracket was suppose to cut the line to proper length while it
was spinning. The down side was, the design was such that it was a
crap shot as to whether the new line would hit the bracket or the
blade. If it hit the bracket, the bracket was flimsey enough to snap
right off.

Sure enough, eventually the new line took out the braket and blade
together and I returned the entire unit to Sears, whereupon the gave
me a brand new trimmer, no questions asked. Sweet. Unfortunately, the
design had not changed and after about and hour of hard use with the
new trimmer, the line whacked off the entire bracket once again.

Perhaps their gaurantee no longer applies to "moving part" tools as
you suggest, but it matters not. That was 30 yrs ago and the last
Craftman tool I've ever bought other than an occasional screwdriver or
nutdriver.

In all fairness, those "driver" hand tools are pretty good for the
price. They also used to make awesome roll-away tool boxes. I once
worked at a small start-up company that had a dozen mech-techs sharing
the company's tools out of a couple Craftsman roll-away tool boxes.
Those boxes were abused unmercifully, drawers being yanked open and
slammed shut a thousand times per day. I was in awe of how well they
held up and ending up buying a pair for myself. I still have it and
it's an excellent product. I can't say if they are still as well
made, today.

nb

On Aug 21, 7:04*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Same as lawn mower. Take the spark plug out, and hold it to a metal
part of the body.

Hard to do on a chainsaw while holding the saw, the plug, the pull
cord, and snatching all at the same time.

I made a short cord to do the trick. Has a standard alligator clip on
one end and a battery cable clip on the other. The battery cable clip
clamps to the spark plug body and the alligator clip to any convenient
piece of metal on the motor. That frees up my hands for other things
and keeps me from getting shocked.

Red wrote:

On Aug 21, 7:04*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Same as lawn mower. Take the spark plug out, and hold it to a metal
part of the body.

Hard to do on a chainsaw while holding the saw, the plug, the pull
cord, and snatching all at the same time.

I made a short cord to do the trick. Has a standard alligator clip on
one end and a battery cable clip on the other. The battery cable clip
clamps to the spark plug body and the alligator clip to any convenient
piece of metal on the motor. That frees up my hands for other things
and keeps me from getting shocked.


They also make a spark plug tester that even allows you to adjust a
gap to see if your spark is strong enough-- Unless you do it often,
knowing whether you just have a spark-- or a 'strong spark' - is
guesswork.

I'm sure a Google search for spark plug tester will turn up several
tools-

Jim

SF Man wrote:
On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:50:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Make sure it's not a Champion brand plug. they had a run of defects.
I've bought Autolite, or NGK. If it fails to start, look at the spark
plug. Wet? Flooded.

Champion RCJ7Y. None of the stores carried that but they told me a Champion
CJ7Y (without the R) is the same thing so that's what I put in there.

The R means it has a series resistor for EMI suppression. Probably
does not make much difference either way.

The plug, when pulled out hot, is dry as a bone so I'm pretty sure flooding
isn't the culprit. I'm beginning to suspect either the plugged fuel filter
(I didn't know chain saws HAD a fuel filter) or the spark coils are bad.

Don't know how to test the coils though.

Turn the thing over with the plug removed from the engine, but sitting on
top of the engine to make good electrical contact. If you see a nice hot
spark, you have good magnetos. If you don't see a spark, your magneto or
points have an issue.

Magnetos don't fail very often, but it happens. Fuel systems clog all
the time, constantly.
--scott

--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 08:02:42 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:
J-hook to pull the rubber hose and filter out.

Come to think of it, the chain saw DID start blurbling in a deep bass sound
when I was tilting it while running.

It no longer runs. I will check out this hidden fuel filter and clean it
out with compressed air if I can.

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 14:41:54 GMT, notbob wrote:
The last time I held Sears to their gaurantee

They have a regular 1 year guarantee on the Craftsman chain saw.

The "hand tools" have the lifetime warranty, but the Craftsman lifetime
warranty does not cover power tools.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Craftsman_%28tools%29

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 05:05:59 -0500, FatterDumber& Happier Moe wrote:
You will have to ground the spark plug which isn't easy

I thought the same thing. It's hard enough to START the thing, with one
foot in the base of the handle, one hand on the top handle, and the other
pulling the cord.

But, it turned out to be (accidentally) easy ... because I had removed the
plug to test it. Putting the chain saw on the shop bench, turning the
lights off, and pulling the cord was easy (sans compression).

It sparks like a champ. Thanks for teaching me that trick.

Next I'll try the fuel filter to see if it's 'clogged'. I do see a clear
plastic hose, about a millimeter or two in diameter, that I'll try to fish
out and clean with compressed air & report back.

Thanks for the hints!

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 12:10:45 -0700, SF Man wrote:
Next I'll try the fuel filter to see if it's 'clogged'.

Using a paper clip, I fished out the clear plastic fuel line out of the
fuel tank of the Craftsman chain saw.

On the end of the fuel line was a 1-inch long white cylindrical tube of the
strangest material. Not hard like diatomaceous earth but not soft like
felt. Dunno what it's made out of.

It does not seem dirty in the least nor does it appear to be 'clogged'. I
blew on the end as the tip is smaller than the opening in my compressor air
gun.

I could put the fuel line temporarily back in without the filter to prove
it's not clogged but it really doesn't appear clogged in the least. I don't
see ANY sediment whatsoever nor is there undue 'resistance' when I blow on
it (there is some resistance but I assume that's from the filtering
element).

I do see some "screws" near the carbeurator ... so I guess that's my next
debugging step ... and to doublecheck if sawdust clogged some air hole
somewhere (it's pretty clean as I blew it off with the compressor before
taking the covers off).

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 12:22:23 -0700, SF Man wrote:

I could put the fuel line temporarily back in without the filter to prove
it's not clogged but it really doesn't appear clogged in the least.

I accidentally found I could test if the fuel line was clogged by pressing
the accelerator pump bulb a few times with the two or three inch fuel hose
out of the tank in the air with the filter attached.

The gas in the line went into the bulb until the line was dry as I
continually pressed the bulb.

Then I dropped the attached fuel filter into the gas tank and continued to
press the bulb a few times and it filled up with gas.

So, the fuel filter and fuel line aren't clogged. BTW, in hindsight, I knew
this because the bulb filled with gas every time. If the fuel line were
clogged, I would think the bulb would have been harder to fill with gas.

Anyway, it's not the fuel line in the tank. And, it's not the spark to the
plug. So, I'm pretty much left with the fuel ratio at this point.

I guess it could be compression or timing.

Is there a test for two-stroke compression & timing?

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 12:28:19 -0700, SF Man wrote:

So, the fuel filter and fuel line aren't clogged.

With the starter cord removed in the Craftsman 18 inch chain saw
(358351800), I cleaned things out and noticed there are three separate fuel
lines; but they all seem clear.

1. The thinner fuel line starts at the filter in the gas tank and goes to
the bottom of the carbeurator.

2. It comes out the side of the carb with a thicker line and goes into the
accelerator pump bulb.

3. Then it comes out of the accelerator pump bulb, again with a thicker
line, and ends up near the choke plate.

There are two side-by-side plates; one is for the throttle; the other is
for the choke. They appear to be working properly when I manipulate the
controls. The choke plate has a hole drilled in it so you can't totally
choke off the air.

So far, I can only find ONE screw with a spring on it which seems to be an
adjusting screw. I will go back and look for the other.

BTW, I tested 'compression' with my thumb as I pulled on the starter cord
before removing it and there was only a slight puff ... I wonder how to
test compression and timing on a two stroke?

Do these things have points?

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 12:49:13 -0700, SF Man wrote:

So far, I can only find ONE screw with a spring on it which seems to be an
adjusting screw. I will go back and look for the other.

The one adjusting screw seems to be at the level of the choke.

Surprisingly, I counted 8 full revolutions before it bottomed out.

I'm SURPRISED because I was expecting only one or two turns based on the
adjustment procedure people said here (to back it out one turn).

Does 8 turns to bottom the adjusting screw for the choke plate seem odd to
you? Should I still just back it out ONE turn?

"SF Man" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 19 Aug 2010 19:50:07 -0400, Stormin Mormon wrote:

Make sure it's not a Champion brand plug. they had a run of defects.
I've bought Autolite, or NGK. If it fails to start, look at the spark
plug. Wet? Flooded.

Champion RCJ7Y. None of the stores carried that but they told me a
Champion
CJ7Y (without the R) is the same thing so that's what I put in there.

The plug, when pulled out hot, is dry as a bone so I'm pretty sure
flooding
isn't the culprit. I'm beginning to suspect either the plugged fuel filter
(I didn't know chain saws HAD a fuel filter) or the spark coils are bad.

Don't know how to test the coils though.

Husqvarna, and some other chain saws, have had problems with the
plastic gas line inside the gas tank cracking. When it does, the saw will
be hard to start or not start at all. In many of these saws it is easy to
replace the plastic tube with one of better quality, and replace the
filter at the same time. A saw shop can do it for you, if yours is bad,
or will sell you the improved fuel line.

You can check the ignition by pulling the start cord and observing the
spark plug gap. Naturally you have removed the plug and have it
touching the electrical ground of the chainsaw.

On Sat, 21 Aug 2010 12:53:22 -0700, SF Man wrote:

Does 8 turns to bottom the adjusting screw for the choke plate seem odd to
you? Should I still just back it out ONE turn?

I looked all over. Maybe because it's a California chain saw, but I only
see a single adjustment screw near the choke plate. Not two adjusting
screws.

I screwed it out 1 1/2 turns.

Also I removed, as suggested, the baffle plate on the exhaust and the brass
screen, both of which were sooty but otherwise wholly clear.

I'll see if that works.