Greetings,

I just had my basement walls reinforced with steel beams installed
every 36 inches on average. I had to tear the drywall down for the
finished portion of the basement and am now trying to figure out the
best way to redo the drywall.

I see two options: One would involve a combination of glueing the
drywall directly to the metal studs and glueing several 2x4's
horizontally between each pair of studs to screw the drywall to.

The other option would be to build small rectangular frames out of
2x4's and install them between the metal studs. This would be
difficult since there are few floor joists to attach to above since
that is where the metal studs are attached. Also, the bottom of the
metal studs are flanged and I'd have to work around this.

Would the glue idea work? Is there another way?

Thanks in advance for your advice/opinions,

Rob

"Rob Kiz" wrote

I just had my basement walls reinforced with steel beams installed
every 36 inches on average. I had to tear the drywall down for the
finished portion of the basement and am now trying to figure out the
best way to redo the drywall.

I see two options: One would involve a combination of glueing the
drywall directly to the metal studs and glueing several 2x4's
horizontally between each pair of studs to screw the drywall to.

Please clarify something. Are the steel beams and metal studs the same
thing or different?

If different, there are screws made for hanging drywall on metal studs.
They are not made for steel beams that are 1/4" or thicker. Use glue and
put a metal or wood stud between them to shorten the span.

Rob Kiz wrote:
Greetings,

I just had my basement walls reinforced with steel beams installed
every 36 inches on average. I had to tear the drywall down for the
finished portion of the basement and am now trying to figure out the
best way to redo the drywall.

I see two options: One would involve a combination of glueing the
drywall directly to the metal studs and glueing several 2x4's
horizontally between each pair of studs to screw the drywall to.

The other option would be to build small rectangular frames out of
2x4's and install them between the metal studs. This would be
difficult since there are few floor joists to attach to above since
that is where the metal studs are attached. Also, the bottom of the
metal studs are flanged and I'd have to work around this.

Would the glue idea work? Is there another way?

Thanks in advance for your advice/opinions,

Rob
Hmm,
Sounds like you are refering to metal studs not beam? 36" OC spacing is
odd? If it is indeed stud you can directly screw down drywall onto the
metal stud.

On Jul 30, 10:44*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"Rob Kiz" wrote



I just had my basement walls reinforced with steel beams installed
every 36 inches on average. I had to tear the drywall down for the
finished portion of the basement and am now trying to figure out the
best way to redo the drywall.

I see two options: One would involve a combination of glueing the
drywall directly to the metal studs and glueing several 2x4's
horizontally between each pair of studs to screw the drywall to.

Please clarify something. *Are the steel beams and metal studs the same
thing or different?

If different, there are screws made for hanging drywall on metal studs.
They are not made for steel beams that are 1/4" or thicker. *Use glue and
put a metal or wood stud between them to shorten the span.

I am referring to engineered steel beams installed to reinforce a
basement wall that is bulging, and not simply metal studs. Sorry for
not being clear on this.

On Jul 30, 10:56*pm, Tony Hwang wrote:
Rob Kiz wrote:
Greetings,

I just had my basement walls reinforced with steel beams installed
every 36 inches on average. I had to tear the drywall down for the
finished portion of the basement and am now trying to figure out the
best way to redo the drywall.

I see two options: One would involve a combination of glueing the
drywall directly to the metal studs and glueing several 2x4's
horizontally between each pair of studs to screw the drywall to.

The other option would be to build small rectangular frames out of
2x4's and install them between the metal studs. This would be
difficult since there are few floor joists to attach to above since
that is where the metal studs are attached. Also, the bottom of the
metal studs are flanged and I'd have to work around this.

Would the glue idea work? Is there another way?

Thanks in advance for your advice/opinions,

Rob

Hmm,
Sounds like you are refering to metal studs not beam? 36" OC spacing is
odd? If it is indeed stud you can directly screw down drywall onto the
metal stud.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sorry I wasn't clear. These are not metal studs that would be spaced
at 16" intervals. I am referring to engineered steel beams used to
reinforce a bulging basement wall.

On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 21:36:59 -0700 (PDT), Rob Kiz
wrote:


Sorry I wasn't clear. These are not metal studs that would be spaced
at 16" intervals. I am referring to engineered steel beams used to
reinforce a bulging basement wall.

I've often wondered why more basement walls don't bulge.

Not enough experience to help you with your question, however.

On Jul 31, 2:45*am, Rob Kiz wrote:
Greetings,

I just had my basement walls reinforced with steel beams installed
every 36 inches on average. I had to tear the drywall down for the
finished portion of the basement and am now trying to figure out the
best way to redo the drywall.

I see two options: One would involve a combination of glueing the
drywall directly to the metal studs and glueing several 2x4's
horizontally between each pair of studs to screw the drywall to.

The other option would be to build small rectangular frames out of
2x4's and install them between the metal studs. This would be
difficult since there are few floor joists to attach to above since
that is where the metal studs are attached. Also, the bottom of the
metal studs are flanged and I'd have to work around this.

Would the glue idea work? Is there another way?

Thanks in advance for your advice/opinions,

Rob

Go out and hire yourself a shot firing gun and nails. With this you
can nail battens directly to the beams. Wear ear protectors and
goggles.
They are adjustable, you can sink the nails into the wood so they
don't protrude.

On Jul 30, 9:45*pm, Rob Kiz wrote:
Greetings,

I just had my basement walls reinforced with steel beams installed
every 36 inches on average. I had to tear the drywall down for the
finished portion of the basement and am now trying to figure out the
best way to redo the drywall.

I see two options: One would involve a combination of glueing the
drywall directly to the metal studs and glueing several 2x4's
horizontally between each pair of studs to screw the drywall to.

The other option would be to build small rectangular frames out of
2x4's and install them between the metal studs. This would be
difficult since there are few floor joists to attach to above since
that is where the metal studs are attached. Also, the bottom of the
metal studs are flanged and I'd have to work around this.

Would the glue idea work? Is there another way?

Thanks in advance for your advice/opinions,

Rob


Ok, so you had engineered steel support beams installed to "fix"
a bulging basement wall of some kind, concrete or CMU?

So the beams stick out from the inside face of the wall now...

The answer is easy... You need to build a new wall which
will conceal the steel beams... You mention that some
steel studs were installed also? A picture would be worth
a thousand words here...

Basically you need to build a new wall header and footer
included that will hide the new steel beams which have
become the new status quo of your bulging wall...

Sure this will lose a little bit of space out of the room, but
you are going to need to address things like having room
for insulating the wall, electrical boxes, electrical wires
and such that gluing drywall to things won't let you easily
deal with... Besides if you are "gluing" the sheetrock to
the structure, how are you dealing with installing a vapor
barrier?

~~ Evan

On Jul 30, 8:45*pm, Rob Kiz wrote:
Greetings,

I just had my basement walls reinforced with steel beams installed
every 36 inches on average. I had to tear the drywall down for the
finished portion of the basement and am now trying to figure out the
best way to redo the drywall.

I see two options: One would involve a combination of glueing the
drywall directly to the metal studs and glueing several 2x4's
horizontally between each pair of studs to screw the drywall to.

The other option would be to build small rectangular frames out of
2x4's and install them between the metal studs. This would be
difficult since there are few floor joists to attach to above since
that is where the metal studs are attached. Also, the bottom of the
metal studs are flanged and I'd have to work around this.

Would the glue idea work? Is there another way?

Thanks in advance for your advice/opinions,

Rob

Go down to City Hall and find out what code requirements you have to
meet. A knowledgeable building inspector can be a real help, even
money saver. Good luck.

Joe

"Evan" wrote in message
...
On Jul 30, 9:45 pm, Rob Kiz wrote:
Greetings,

I just had my basement walls reinforced with steel beams installed
every 36 inches on average. I had to tear the drywall down for the
finished portion of the basement and am now trying to figure out the
best way to redo the drywall.

I see two options: One would involve a combination of glueing the
drywall directly to the metal studs and glueing several 2x4's
horizontally between each pair of studs to screw the drywall to.

The other option would be to build small rectangular frames out of
2x4's and install them between the metal studs. This would be
difficult since there are few floor joists to attach to above since
that is where the metal studs are attached. Also, the bottom of the
metal studs are flanged and I'd have to work around this.

Would the glue idea work? Is there another way?

Thanks in advance for your advice/opinions,

Rob


Ok, so you had engineered steel support beams installed to "fix"
a bulging basement wall of some kind, concrete or CMU?

So the beams stick out from the inside face of the wall now...

The answer is easy... You need to build a new wall which
will conceal the steel beams... You mention that some
steel studs were installed also? A picture would be worth
a thousand words here...

Basically you need to build a new wall header and footer
included that will hide the new steel beams which have
become the new status quo of your bulging wall...

Sure this will lose a little bit of space out of the room, but
you are going to need to address things like having room
for insulating the wall, electrical boxes, electrical wires
and such that gluing drywall to things won't let you easily
deal with... Besides if you are "gluing" the sheetrock to
the structure, how are you dealing with installing a vapor
barrier?

~~ Evan



Ditto...Frame something with 2X4's to conceal them...BTDT many times to
conceal lolly columes , duct work , ect. in basements...HTH...

benick wrote:
"Evan" wrote in message
...
On Jul 30, 9:45 pm, Rob Kiz wrote:
Greetings,

I just had my basement walls reinforced with steel beams installed
every 36 inches on average. I had to tear the drywall down for the
finished portion of the basement and am now trying to figure out the
best way to redo the drywall.

I see two options: One would involve a combination of glueing the
drywall directly to the metal studs and glueing several 2x4's
horizontally between each pair of studs to screw the drywall to.

The other option would be to build small rectangular frames out of
2x4's and install them between the metal studs. This would be
difficult since there are few floor joists to attach to above since
that is where the metal studs are attached. Also, the bottom of the
metal studs are flanged and I'd have to work around this.

Would the glue idea work? Is there another way?

Thanks in advance for your advice/opinions,

Rob


Ok, so you had engineered steel support beams installed to "fix"
a bulging basement wall of some kind, concrete or CMU?

So the beams stick out from the inside face of the wall now...

The answer is easy... You need to build a new wall which
will conceal the steel beams... You mention that some
steel studs were installed also? A picture would be worth
a thousand words here...

Basically you need to build a new wall header and footer
included that will hide the new steel beams which have
become the new status quo of your bulging wall...

Sure this will lose a little bit of space out of the room, but
you are going to need to address things like having room
for insulating the wall, electrical boxes, electrical wires
and such that gluing drywall to things won't let you easily
deal with... Besides if you are "gluing" the sheetrock to
the structure, how are you dealing with installing a vapor
barrier?

~~ Evan



Ditto...Frame something with 2X4's to conceal them...BTDT many times to
conceal lolly columes , duct work , ect. in basements...HTH...

I'd give up on having a finished basement, and just shoot the whole mess
with white paint, so I can see when the leaks and bulges return. Not a
fan of bandaid fixes like that, although I realize sometimes they are
the only cost-effective solution, especially if yard is heavily
landscaped. Unless groundwater problem was fixed at the same time, there
WILL be future problems. At most, I would put a panelized faux wall in
front of it, so demo will be easier next time. If you must have
outlets, feed from the top, with a J-box in ceiling in front of the
wall, to make disconnects painless.

--
aem sends...

wrote in :

On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 21:34:57 -0700 (PDT), Rob Kiz
wrote:

On Jul 30, 10:44*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"Rob Kiz" wrote



I just had my basement walls reinforced with steel beams installed
every 36 inches on average. I had to tear the drywall down for the
finished portion of the basement and am now trying to figure out
the best way to redo the drywall.

I see two options: One would involve a combination of glueing the
drywall directly to the metal studs and glueing several 2x4's
horizontally between each pair of studs to screw the drywall to.

Please clarify something. *Are the steel beams and metal studs the
same thing or different?

If different, there are screws made for hanging drywall on metal
studs. They are not made for steel beams that are 1/4" or thicker.
*Use glue and put a metal or wood stud between them to shorten the
span.

I am referring to engineered steel beams installed to reinforce a
basement wall that is bulging, and not simply metal studs. Sorry for
not being clear on this.

Some people just can not comprehend what they read.....

Why not just leave the beams exposed and put the sheetrock in between.
You would have a new look. Paint them if you dont like the color.
Why does everyone want boring flat walls anyhow. Another option would
be to just hang some sort of drapes across the walls. That way, if
water pours in from the cracked bulging walls, you dont have to rip
out sheetrock, just hang the drapes on a washline and let them dry.



'jw' makes a lot of sense for two reasons. First, reinforcing doesn't
develope full strength unless and until it is fully loaded which may not
occur right away. Also the loads may vary with time. Reinforcing
'stretches' slightly under load due to elastic action. Drywall is a
rigid material and will not perform well at all if fastened onto
reinforcing that expands and shrinks again over time. You may be battling
cracks that re-occur constantly. Small cracks, if the reinforcing is
strong enough, but annoying. If you must use drywall then don't fasten it
to the reinforcing. Install a stud wall that is not fastened to the
reinforcing and fasten drywall normally to that. Remember to use a
flexible connection to the ceiling - don't nail it solidly to the
underside of joists.

Second, moisture proofing a basement is almost impossible no matter how
much money you spend. Water may not pour in if you have done a good job
of water-proofing but there is likely to be some dampness. Drywall is the
worst material to use if there is any degree of dampness at all. Either
use something else or use 'jw's' suggestion of working between the
reinforcing. Try to design a system where future moisture damage is
easiest to repair. A sectional approach is a good idea. Perhaps use a
decorative strip every few studs that hides a break in the drywall. That
way a future repair would only have to remove and replace a few sections.

If the water-proofing is a good job it may perform well if you add a
dehumidifier to the basement. That may be enough to deal with a small
amount of dampness. Get one with an automatic drain, either a pump type
or a gravity overflow. That should make it close to install and forget.

replying to Rob Kiz, Scott53051 wrote:
I just found this thread as I was looking for something else but since we all
are home self-quarantining, I have the time. I cannot believe people are so
clueless on what you were trying to ask and then chime in with inane comments.
Hang a waistline and drapes? Are you kidding? Why would you even take the
time to write? I know this thread is ten years old but if anyone else is
looking for an answer, the correct way would be to either: build a new wall
outside of the beam thickness in which you will lose an additional approx. 4"
(plus the 5"-6" beams) or purchase some 2"x6" and build frames inside the beam
columns using treated lumber for sill plate and make sure to attache top piece
to joists. It is a more tedious but will save you some room. Sorry that some
people just "don't get it" but I'm sure some of them mean well...just hope
they don't do their own home projects!

--
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