benick wrote:
"Evan" wrote in message
...
On Jul 30, 9:45 pm, Rob Kiz wrote:
Greetings,

I just had my basement walls reinforced with steel beams installed
every 36 inches on average. I had to tear the drywall down for the
finished portion of the basement and am now trying to figure out the
best way to redo the drywall.

I see two options: One would involve a combination of glueing the
drywall directly to the metal studs and glueing several 2x4's
horizontally between each pair of studs to screw the drywall to.

The other option would be to build small rectangular frames out of
2x4's and install them between the metal studs. This would be
difficult since there are few floor joists to attach to above since
that is where the metal studs are attached. Also, the bottom of the
metal studs are flanged and I'd have to work around this.

Would the glue idea work? Is there another way?

Thanks in advance for your advice/opinions,

Rob


Ok, so you had engineered steel support beams installed to "fix"
a bulging basement wall of some kind, concrete or CMU?

So the beams stick out from the inside face of the wall now...

The answer is easy... You need to build a new wall which
will conceal the steel beams... You mention that some
steel studs were installed also? A picture would be worth
a thousand words here...

Basically you need to build a new wall header and footer
included that will hide the new steel beams which have
become the new status quo of your bulging wall...

Sure this will lose a little bit of space out of the room, but
you are going to need to address things like having room
for insulating the wall, electrical boxes, electrical wires
and such that gluing drywall to things won't let you easily
deal with... Besides if you are "gluing" the sheetrock to
the structure, how are you dealing with installing a vapor
barrier?

~~ Evan



Ditto...Frame something with 2X4's to conceal them...BTDT many times to
conceal lolly columes , duct work , ect. in basements...HTH...

I'd give up on having a finished basement, and just shoot the whole mess
with white paint, so I can see when the leaks and bulges return. Not a
fan of bandaid fixes like that, although I realize sometimes they are
the only cost-effective solution, especially if yard is heavily
landscaped. Unless groundwater problem was fixed at the same time, there
WILL be future problems. At most, I would put a panelized faux wall in
front of it, so demo will be easier next time. If you must have
outlets, feed from the top, with a J-box in ceiling in front of the
wall, to make disconnects painless.

--
aem sends...