Can anyone tell me the manufacturer of this faucet? It needs some work, and I
cannot get it apart. (The left handle will not come off of the valve.)

http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...453/img078.jpg

"mcp6453" wrote in message
...
Can anyone tell me the manufacturer of this faucet? It needs some work,
and I
cannot get it apart. (The left handle will not come off of the valve.)

http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...453/img078.jpg

Not sure of the maker, but if you can get the right side apart, a good
hardware store might be able to match it for you.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

On Jun 6, 6:09*pm, mcp6453 wrote:
Can anyone tell me the manufacturer of this faucet? It needs some work, and I
cannot get it apart. (The left handle will not come off of the valve.)

http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...453/img078.jpg

Those are phillips screws in the tops of the valves? Hard to tell
form your picture. The screw won't come out? Or the handle won't
come off after you get the screw out?

On 6/7/2010 9:09 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Jun 6, 6:09 pm, wrote:
Can anyone tell me the manufacturer of this faucet? It needs some work, and I
cannot get it apart. (The left handle will not come off of the valve.)

http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...453/img078.jpg

Those are phillips screws in the tops of the valves? Hard to tell
form your picture. The screw won't come out? Or the handle won't
come off after you get the screw out?

The handle on the left will not come off after I get the screw out. The
handle on the right removes with no problem. I tried loosening it with
WD-40 and even tapping with a hammer, but it didn't help. I have some
other stuff to try when I go back over there. At this point, I'm getting
really close to replacing the whole unit, which is what's going to
happen if I break it anyway.

On Jun 7, 11:51�am, mcp6453 wrote:
On 6/7/2010 9:09 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:

On Jun 6, 6:09 pm, �wrote:
Can anyone tell me the manufacturer of this faucet? It needs some work, and I
cannot get it apart. (The left handle will not come off of the valve.)

http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...453/img078.jpg

Those are phillips screws in the tops of the valves? �Hard to tell
form your picture. �The screw won't come out? �Or the handle won't
come off after you get the screw out?

The handle on the left will not come off after I get the screw out. The
handle on the right removes with no problem. I tried loosening it with
WD-40 and even tapping with a hammer, but it didn't help. I have some
other stuff to try when I go back over there. At this point, I'm getting
really close to replacing the whole unit, which is what's going to
happen if I break it anyway.

there are handle pulling tools once the phillips screw is out. or
carefully destroy the handle and put on a new pair

often replacing the entire faucet is easier

On Jun 7, 11:51*am, mcp6453 wrote:
On 6/7/2010 9:09 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:

On Jun 6, 6:09 pm, *wrote:
Can anyone tell me the manufacturer of this faucet? It needs some work, and I
cannot get it apart. (The left handle will not come off of the valve.)

http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...453/img078.jpg

Those are phillips screws in the tops of the valves? *Hard to tell
form your picture. *The screw won't come out? *Or the handle won't
come off after you get the screw out?

The handle on the left will not come off after I get the screw out. The
handle on the right removes with no problem. I tried loosening it with
WD-40 and even tapping with a hammer, but it didn't help. I have some
other stuff to try when I go back over there. At this point, I'm getting
really close to replacing the whole unit, which is what's going to
happen if I break it anyway.

Go buy a new unit. Then pull on the handle until it either comes off
or something breaks. If it doesn't break then you can just return the
new one while you are buyng washers or whatever the old one needs.

"mcp6453" wrote in message
news

The handle on the left will not come off after I get the screw out. The
handle on the right removes with no problem. I tried loosening it with
WD-40 and even tapping with a hammer, but it didn't help. I have some
other stuff to try when I go back over there. At this point, I'm getting
really close to replacing the whole unit, which is what's going to
happen if I break it anyway.

If you opt to replace consider the American Standard brand with the ceramic
disc valves.

Not too pricey and in the 15 years I have had these in my home not a single
drip and they work as smooth today as they did when I installed them. The
only thing I don't like about then is the drain plug that doesn't seem to
effect a very good seal so soaking something takes a bucket.


--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

On Jun 6, 6:09*pm, mcp6453 wrote:
Can anyone tell me the manufacturer of this faucet? It needs some work, and I
cannot get it apart. (The left handle will not come off of the valve.)

http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...453/img078.jpg

Take the screw out and pour a bunch of vinegar down the "hole". Let it
sit while you rent/borrow/steal (or if you have to, buy) one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Superior-Tool-.../dp/B0000CBJHH

You can get them at ACE, Home Depot, Sears, etc.

On Jun 7, 1:20*pm, "Roger Shoaf" wrote:
"mcp6453" wrote in message

news
The handle on the left will not come off after I get the screw out. The
handle on the right removes with no problem. I tried loosening it with
WD-40 and even tapping with a hammer, but it didn't help. I have some
other stuff to try when I go back over there. At this point, I'm getting
really close to replacing the whole unit, which is what's going to
happen if I break it anyway.

If you opt to replace consider the American Standard brand with the ceramic
disc valves.

Not too pricey and in the 15 years I have had these in my home not a single
drip and they work as smooth today as they did when I installed them. *The
only thing I don't like about then is the drain plug that doesn't seem to
effect a very good seal so soaking something takes a bucket.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

My suggestion is to go to Lowe's and buy a new ffaucet and then
install it. Once it's installed and working. the old handle will come
off very easily. It's amazing how that works...

Rob

On Jun 7, 3:57*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Jun 6, 6:09*pm, mcp6453 wrote:

Can anyone tell me the manufacturer of this faucet? It needs some work, and I
cannot get it apart. (The left handle will not come off of the valve.)

http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...453/img078.jpg

Take the screw out and pour a bunch of vinegar down the "hole". Let it
sit while you rent/borrow/steal (or if you have to, buy) one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Superior-Tool-.../dp/B0000CBJHH

You can get them at ACE, Home Depot, Sears, etc.


Agree with DerbyDad -- you need the proper tool to take apart the
faucet as it is obviously gunked/corroded together...

The tool he linked you to will help you deal with your issue...

~~ Evan

On Jun 7, 6:35*pm, Evan wrote:
On Jun 7, 3:57*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Jun 6, 6:09*pm, mcp6453 wrote:

Can anyone tell me the manufacturer of this faucet? It needs some work, and I
cannot get it apart. (The left handle will not come off of the valve.)

http://i882.photobucket.com/albums/a...453/img078.jpg

Take the screw out and pour a bunch of vinegar down the "hole". Let it
sit while you rent/borrow/steal (or if you have to, buy) one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Superior-Tool-.../dp/B0000CBJHH

You can get them at ACE, Home Depot, Sears, etc.

Agree with DerbyDad -- *you need the proper tool to take apart the
faucet as it is obviously gunked/corroded together...

The tool he linked you to will help you deal with your issue...

~~ Evan

I was thinking the right tool would be more than I would be willing to
spend. But this one is not bad.

It might also be possible to use a piece of wood as a rest and a
couple larger screwdrivers as pry bars.

The vinigar is a good idea too. If it's stuck it's probably calcium.
Some diluted muriatic acid might work as well but you would have to be
careful to keep it off the finish unless it is sealed.

On 6/8/2010 8:23 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:

I was thinking the right tool would be more than I would be willing to
spend. But this one is not bad.

It might also be possible to use a piece of wood as a rest and a
couple larger screwdrivers as pry bars.

The vinigar is a good idea too. If it's stuck it's probably calcium.
Some diluted muriatic acid might work as well but you would have to be
careful to keep it off the finish unless it is sealed.

I have a similar tool that I used to use to pull bearings from motor
capstans, but the center pin is too large. My local Lowes store appears
to have this one in stock, so I'm going to buy one for the toolbox, even
if I decide to replace the entire faucet.

It's possible that the valve has trash in it. If all I have to do is
clean it, I'd rather not replace the faucet.

On Jun 8, 10:59*am, mcp6453 wrote:
On 6/8/2010 8:23 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:

I was thinking the right tool would be more than I would be willing to
spend. *But this one is not bad.

It might also be possible to use a piece of wood as a rest and a
couple larger screwdrivers as pry bars.

The vinigar is a good idea too. *If it's stuck it's probably calcium.
Some diluted muriatic acid might work as well but you would have to be
careful to keep it off the finish unless it is sealed.

I have a similar tool that I used to use to pull bearings from motor
capstans, but the center pin is too large. My local Lowes store appears
to have this one in stock, so I'm going to buy one for the toolbox, even
if I decide to replace the entire faucet.

It's possible that the valve has trash in it. If all I have to do is
clean it, I'd rather not replace the faucet.

If you have a puller that you think will grab the sides of the handle
then you can put something small on top of the shaft to deal with the
center pin being too large. Like a small nut. You could also try
leaving the screw in but loosened but there is a risk that pushing
against it will deform the threads.

Not that it's a bad thing to get a new tool :-)

On 6/8/2010 11:30 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:

If you have a puller that you think will grab the sides of the handle
then you can put something small on top of the shaft to deal with the
center pin being too large. Like a small nut. You could also try
leaving the screw in but loosened but there is a risk that pushing
against it will deform the threads.

Not that it's a bad thing to get a new tool :-)

Leaving the screw in but loosening it may work. If I do that, though, I
will deprive myself of a new tool. There could be a time in the future
when loosening the screw will not work and I'll need the tool. Plus,
with inevitable inflation, the tool could cost a lot more next year, so
I need to get it this year. (Ignore that I have not needed one in the
last fifty years.)

On Jun 8, 1:27*pm, mcp6453 wrote:
On 6/8/2010 11:30 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:

If you have a puller that you think will grab the sides of the handle
then you can put something small on top of the shaft to deal with the
center pin being too large. *Like a small nut. *You could also try
leaving the screw in but loosened but there is a risk that pushing
against it will deform the threads.

Not that it's a bad thing to get a new tool :-)

Leaving the screw in but loosening it may work. If I do that, though, I
will deprive myself of a new tool. There could be a time in the future
when loosening the screw will not work and I'll need the tool. Plus,
with inevitable inflation, the tool could cost a lot more next year, so
I need to get it this year. (Ignore that I have not needed one in the
last fifty years.)

I can't argue with an excuse to buy a tool since I'm always looking
for those, yukyuk. Every project should include at least one new
tool.

On Jun 8, 1:27�pm, mcp6453 wrote:
On 6/8/2010 11:30 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:

If you have a puller that you think will grab the sides of the handle
then you can put something small on top of the shaft to deal with the
center pin being too large. �Like a small nut. �You could also try
leaving the screw in but loosened but there is a risk that pushing
against it will deform the threads.

Not that it's a bad thing to get a new tool :-)

Leaving the screw in but loosening it may work. If I do that, though, I
will deprive myself of a new tool. There could be a time in the future
when loosening the screw will not work and I'll need the tool. Plus,
with inevitable inflation, the tool could cost a lot more next year, so
I need to get it this year. (Ignore that I have not needed one in the
last fifty years.)

nope tool prices may fall with the new factory opening on the island
of datlya. the islanders are thrilled to make 3 cents a day.

perfect to export into the US

On Jun 8, 10:59*am, mcp6453 wrote:
On 6/8/2010 8:23 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:

I was thinking the right tool would be more than I would be willing to
spend. *But this one is not bad.

It might also be possible to use a piece of wood as a rest and a
couple larger screwdrivers as pry bars.

The vinigar is a good idea too. *If it's stuck it's probably calcium.
Some diluted muriatic acid might work as well but you would have to be
careful to keep it off the finish unless it is sealed.

I have a similar tool that I used to use to pull bearings from motor
capstans, but the center pin is too large. My local Lowes store appears
to have this one in stock, so I'm going to buy one for the toolbox, even
if I decide to replace the entire faucet.

It's possible that the valve has trash in it. If all I have to do is
clean it, I'd rather not replace the faucet.


What is the nature of the problem which requires "work"
on the faucet ?

~~ Evan

On 6/8/2010 8:24 PM, Evan wrote:

What is the nature of the problem which requires "work"
on the faucet ?

The flow is restricted, and the problem is not the aerator.

"mcp6453" wrote in message
...
On 6/8/2010 8:24 PM, Evan wrote:

What is the nature of the problem which requires "work"
on the faucet ?

The flow is restricted, and the problem is not the aerator.

Restricted flow in the hot side might be chunks of dip tube from the water
heater.

A while back some water heater manufacturers used a plastic that would
degrade over time causing this very mischief.

You might also check the angle stop on the hot side if you find crud in the
valve.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

On Jun 9, 10:57*am, "Roger Shoaf" wrote:
"mcp6453" wrote in message

...

On 6/8/2010 8:24 PM, Evan wrote:

What is the nature of the problem which requires "work"
on the faucet ?

The flow is restricted, and the problem is not the aerator.

Restricted flow in the hot side might be chunks of dip tube from the water
heater.

A while back some water heater manufacturers used a plastic that would
degrade over time causing this very mischief.

You might also check the angle stop on the hot side if you find crud in the
valve.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

Usually you find some of those bits in the aerators. I know I did.

Before forcing the handle off I'd get a bucket, diconnect the lines at
the bottom of the faucet and make sure both flowed well and equally
into the bucket.

On 6/9/2010 11:02 AM, jamesgangnc wrote:

Usually you find some of those bits in the aerators. I know I did.

Before forcing the handle off I'd get a bucket, diconnect the lines at
the bottom of the faucet and make sure both flowed well and equally
into the bucket.

The aerator is clean. I'll definitely check the flow, but wiggling the spout on
the faucet caused the water to flow more freely. At least I need to take it
apart and clean it.

New problem: The faucet cutoff valves are extremely hard to turn. I mean HARD. I
almost couldn't get the hot water to turn off, and I could not get the cold off
because the handle is so close to the drain pipe.

http://img2.timeinc.net/toh/i/a/plum...-valves-04.jpg

I'm going to have to turn off the water supply to the house and remove these
completely to find out why they are so stiff. I'm assuming they have mineral
build ups that need to be cleaned, or the valves need to be replaced. They could
certainly be part of the problem.

I'm curious. Why are these valves used instead of ball valves? Cost? Ball valves
are a lot easier to operate since the water is either all the way on or all the
way off.

Maybe I'll get one of these, or something like it.

http://www.gordonwrench.com/tool.htm