Hi,

I had some work done on a wooden porch and some dry rot
was replaced with durham's wood putty. It dried for one day then
was painted with valspar ultra latex. It gets wet and peels.

I repainted it and covered it with plastic to allow for drying but
it still peels.

Can I just scrape this and seal it with polyurethane then use
something like Kilz on it? It is a satin white and a small area
so perfect color matching is not that important. Or does the
peeling indicate something else.

thx,

itchy

"internaughtfull" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I had some work done on a wooden porch and some dry rot
was replaced with durham's wood putty. It dried for one day then
was painted with valspar ultra latex. It gets wet and peels.

I repainted it and covered it with plastic to allow for drying but
it still peels.

Can I just scrape this and seal it with polyurethane then use
something like Kilz on it? It is a satin white and a small area
so perfect color matching is not that important. Or does the
peeling indicate something else.

thx,

itchy

The poly or an oil based primer might work if you get it 100% dry first.
That wood putty tends to attract moisture hence the peeling paint.

Bondo would be a better repair material for next time as it does not absorb
moisture.

Colbyt

On Jan 28, 12:20*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
"internaughtfull" wrote in message

...





Hi,

I had some work done on a wooden porch and some dry rot
was replaced with durham's wood putty. It dried for one day then
was painted with valspar ultra latex. It gets wet and peels.

I repainted it and covered it with plastic to allow for drying but
it still peels.

Can I just scrape this and seal it with polyurethane then use
something like Kilz on it? It is a satin white and a small area
so perfect color matching is not that important. Or does the
peeling indicate something else.

thx,

itchy

The poly or an oil based primer might work if you get it 100% dry first.
That wood putty tends to attract moisture hence the peeling paint.

Bondo would be a better repair material for next time as it does not absorb
moisture.

Colbyt- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Either that or there is something like oil in the wood putty which
presents a non-binding surface

internaughtfull wrote:
Hi,

I had some work done on a wooden porch and some dry rot
was replaced with durham's wood putty. It dried for one day then
was painted with valspar ultra latex. It gets wet and peels.

I repainted it and covered it with plastic to allow for drying but
it still peels.

Can I just scrape this and seal it with polyurethane then use
something like Kilz on it? It is a satin white and a small area
so perfect color matching is not that important. Or does the
peeling indicate something else.

thx,

itchy

The peeling could be the result of moisture intruding from the bottom of
the boards which are likely not painted. Covering the top when the
bottom is adbsorbing moisture won't accomplish much.

"internaughtfull" wrote in message
...
Hi,

I had some work done on a wooden porch and some dry rot
was replaced with durham's wood putty. It dried for one day then
was painted with valspar ultra latex. It gets wet and peels.

I repainted it and covered it with plastic to allow for drying but
it still peels.

Can I just scrape this and seal it with polyurethane then use
something like Kilz on it? It is a satin white and a small area
so perfect color matching is not that important. Or does the
peeling indicate something else.

thx,

itchy


Moisture...Just because the top is dry doesn't mean it's cured all the way
thru , especially if it's a heavy fill...Ditto on the bondo for big
repairs....

internaughtfull wrote in news:5eac98f3-
:

Hi,

I had some work done on a wooden porch and some dry rot
was replaced with durham's wood putty. It dried for one day then
was painted with valspar ultra latex. It gets wet and peels.

I repainted it and covered it with plastic to allow for drying but
it still peels.

Can I just scrape this and seal it with polyurethane then use
something like Kilz on it? It is a satin white and a small area
so perfect color matching is not that important. Or does the
peeling indicate something else.

thx,

itchy

I've used Durham's Water Putty outdoors successfully many times for such
things.

Not sure how it was done in your case but I:

- Dug out any rot and soft/damp wood. Instructions even say it
will absorb moisture.
- Covered (not sealed) and let dry out till I could feel no dampness.
This can take days sometimes.
- Fill with putty. Deep holes, do in layers.
- Let dry and finish to desired texture.
- PRIME
- Paint at least 2x.

On Jan 28, 11:10*am, internaughtfull
wrote:
Hi,

I had some work done on a wooden porch and some dry rot
was replaced with durham's wood putty. It dried for one day then
was painted with valspar ultra latex. It gets wet and peels.

I repainted it and covered it with plastic to allow for drying but
it still peels.

Can I just scrape this and seal it with polyurethane then use
something like Kilz on it? It is a satin white and a small area
so perfect color matching is not that important. Or does the
peeling indicate something else.

thx,

itchy

Durhams is fairly junky, at best it will last 4-7 years, painting
after one day was a mistake, it needs to dry completely, covering a
repaint with plastic makes no sense since you trapped everything from
curing out. Wood was rotted, so it had water leaking in at some point,
or it would not have rotted in the first place. Sounds like a big new
experiment for you, ive had good luck with Bondo. Paint is probably
failing now because of incomming water so fix that first, the durhams
wont ever dry if water is leaking in and any oil paint will peel more
readily than latex from moisture, latex breathes a bit.

internaughtfull writes:
Hi,

I had some work done on a wooden porch and some dry rot
was replaced with durham's wood putty. It dried for one day then
was painted with valspar ultra latex. It gets wet and peels.

I repainted it and covered it with plastic to allow for drying but
it still peels.

Can I just scrape this and seal it with polyurethane then use
something like Kilz on it? It is a satin white and a small area
so perfect color matching is not that important. Or does the
peeling indicate something else.


While as other posters pointed out, your primary problem is probably
that you didn't let it dry enough...

However, unless you let it dry completely and thoroughly seal all edges
of the wood with an impermeable protective layer and keep it that way
forever, then you will get movement of water in and out. However, most
putties are not really waterproof so they can run into problems with
moisture.

My solution for outside is to always use an epoxy-based product (Bondo
is OK but it tends to be more brittle and not attach as well to wood
which over time results in separation from the wood when it repeatedly
expands & contracts). It's more expensive but should be a more permanent
and professional solution.

On Jan 28, 12:20*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:
"internaughtfull" wrote in message

...





Hi,

I had some work done on a wooden porch and some dry rot
was replaced with durham's wood putty. It dried for one day then
was painted with valspar ultra latex. It gets wet and peels.

I repainted it and covered it with plastic to allow for drying but
it still peels.

Can I just scrape this and seal it with polyurethane then use
something like Kilz on it? It is a satin white and a small area
so perfect color matching is not that important. Or does the
peeling indicate something else.

thx,

itchy

The poly or an oil based primer might work if you get it 100% dry first.
That wood putty tends to attract moisture hence the peeling paint.

Bondo would be a better repair material for next time as it does not absorb
moisture.

????

Bondo absorbs moisture like a mother, even on a car it is a poor
repair material unless sealed completely.

nate

On Jan 28, 11:32*pm, blueman wrote:
internaughtfull writes:
Hi,

I had some work done on a wooden porch and some dry rot
was replaced with durham's wood putty. It dried for one day then
was painted with valspar ultra latex. It gets wet and peels.

I repainted it and covered it with plastic to allow for drying but
it still peels.

Can I just scrape this and seal it with polyurethane then use
something like Kilz on it? It is a satin white and a small area
so perfect color matching is not that important. Or does the
peeling indicate something else.

While as other posters pointed out, your primary problem is probably
that you didn't let it dry enough...

However, unless you let it dry completely and thoroughly seal all edges
of the wood with an impermeable protective layer and keep it that way
forever, then you will get movement of water in and out. However, most
putties are not really waterproof so they can run into problems with
moisture.

My solution for outside is to always use an epoxy-based product (Bondo
is OK but it tends to be more brittle and not attach as well to wood
which over time results in separation from the wood when it repeatedly
expands & contracts). It's more expensive but should be a more permanent
and professional solution.

Could you suggest such an epoxy-based product? I have an oak doorsill
that shouldn't have been termite infested, but it was. I scraped out
all the crud that
I could, and drowned it in termite killer. Been years, and I have
not yet
repaired the damage and stained the area (assuming it will take a
stain).
Have been monitoring the pro- and anti-Bondo discussions with growing
confusion.

So I would appreciate name(s) of these epoxy-based products, if you
think they might work in an oak door sill.

TIA

You can use 3M or other body filler. You can use almost any 2
equal part epoxy system. You can use Durham's Rock hard water
putty, though it is not expressly for exterior work. None of
these products will take stain. You will be performing a paint or
faux grain finish. If you insist on staying stainable, remove and
replace.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...
On Jan 28, 11:32 pm, blueman wrote:
internaughtfull writes:
Hi,

I had some work done on a wooden porch and some dry rot
was replaced with durham's wood putty. It dried for one day
then
was painted with valspar ultra latex. It gets wet and peels.

I repainted it and covered it with plastic to allow for drying
but
it still peels.

Can I just scrape this and seal it with polyurethane then use
something like Kilz on it? It is a satin white and a small
area
so perfect color matching is not that important. Or does the
peeling indicate something else.

While as other posters pointed out, your primary problem is
probably
that you didn't let it dry enough...

However, unless you let it dry completely and thoroughly seal
all edges
of the wood with an impermeable protective layer and keep it
that way
forever, then you will get movement of water in and out.
However, most
putties are not really waterproof so they can run into problems
with
moisture.

My solution for outside is to always use an epoxy-based product
(Bondo
is OK but it tends to be more brittle and not attach as well to
wood
which over time results in separation from the wood when it
repeatedly
expands & contracts). It's more expensive but should be a more
permanent
and professional solution.

Could you suggest such an epoxy-based product? I have an oak
doorsill
that shouldn't have been termite infested, but it was. I scraped
out
all the crud that
I could, and drowned it in termite killer. Been years, and I
have
not yet
repaired the damage and stained the area (assuming it will take a
stain).
Have been monitoring the pro- and anti-Bondo discussions with
growing
confusion.

So I would appreciate name(s) of these epoxy-based products, if
you
think they might work in an oak door sill.

TIA

"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...
On Jan 28, 11:32 pm, blueman wrote:
internaughtfull writes:

My solution for outside is to always use an epoxy-based product (Bondo
is OK but it tends to be more brittle and not attach as well to wood
which over time results in separation from the wood when it repeatedly
expands & contracts). It's more expensive but should be a more permanent
and professional solution.

Could you suggest such an epoxy-based product? I have an oak doorsill
that shouldn't have been termite infested, but it was. I scraped out
all the crud that
I could, and drowned it in termite killer. Been years, and I have
not yet
repaired the damage and stained the area (assuming it will take a
stain).
Have been monitoring the pro- and anti-Bondo discussions with growing
confusion.


West Systems at this page: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

is the epoxy product that I used. It turns soft wood into petrified wood in
about an hour.

Multiple coats may be required. Then I used Bondo to fill the holes.

After the spring thaw grin I will go take some pictures of the project I
did 7-8 years ago and see how it is holding up


--
Colbyt
Please come visit http://www.househomerepair.com

On Jan 29, 7:46*am, N8N wrote:
On Jan 28, 12:20*pm, "Colbyt" wrote:





"internaughtfull" wrote in message

...

Hi,

I had some work done on a wooden porch and some dry rot
was replaced with durham's wood putty. It dried for one day then
was painted with valspar ultra latex. It gets wet and peels.

I repainted it and covered it with plastic to allow for drying but
it still peels.

Can I just scrape this and seal it with polyurethane then use
something like Kilz on it? It is a satin white and a small area
so perfect color matching is not that important. Or does the
peeling indicate something else.

thx,

itchy

The poly or an oil based primer might work if you get it 100% dry first..
That wood putty tends to attract moisture hence the peeling paint.

Bondo would be a better repair material for next time as it does not absorb
moisture.

????

Bondo absorbs moisture like a mother, even on a car it is a poor
repair material unless sealed completely.

nate- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Durhams Water putty would absorbe many x more water its wood a base
product, Durhams on many houses ive done for customers never lasted as
long as even the paint itself outside

blueman writes:
internaughtfull writes:
Hi,

I had some work done on a wooden porch and some dry rot
was replaced with durham's wood putty. It dried for one day then
was painted with valspar ultra latex. It gets wet and peels.

I repainted it and covered it with plastic to allow for drying but
it still peels.

Can I just scrape this and seal it with polyurethane then use
something like Kilz on it? It is a satin white and a small area
so perfect color matching is not that important. Or does the
peeling indicate something else.


While as other posters pointed out, your primary problem is probably
that you didn't let it dry enough...

However, unless you let it dry completely and thoroughly seal all edges
of the wood with an impermeable protective layer and keep it that way
forever, then you will get movement of water in and out. However, most
putties are not really waterproof so they can run into problems with
moisture.

My solution for outside is to always use an epoxy-based product (Bondo
is OK but it tends to be more brittle and not attach as well to wood
which over time results in separation from the wood when it repeatedly
expands & contracts). It's more expensive but should be a more permanent
and professional solution.

If you want something easy, then you might try the following products
from SystemThree:
- First use the RotFix 2-part epoxy to penetrate and solidify the
borders of the rotted area. It is basically a thinned epoxy that
penetrates and plasticizes borderline rotted areas. You let it
seep into the remaining wood and harden. This saves you from
having to cut back too far and is good insurance that you haven't
missed some rot

- Second fill and sculpt the void using the 2-part epoxy Sculptwood
which comes in 2 plastic tubs of putty that you mix by rolling
together into a ball. It is very easy to mold and sculpt. More
importantly, it can easily be sanded and drilled when dry to give
you a seamless repair.

You can buy the SystemThree products in various sizes but like all
epoxies, it's not cheap -- expect to pay ~30-40 for each kit.


Personally, while I still use SystemThree for some uses, I have
"graduated" on to the more versatile West System. It consists of a
single Resin (that I buy by the gallon), various hardeners (differing
mostly in drying speed, but also some specialty ones) and a wide
varierty of different fillers. You really need to see the site for
details.

- For repairing rot, I first use unadulterated resin & hardener
(typically mixed 5:1 for most hardeners) to penetrate and solidify
the remaining wood borders (like RotFix). One could dilute it a bit
with alcahol to get similar viscosity and penetration to RotFix but
tech support at West Systems recommends warming the wood (and/or
the epoxy) as a *better* way of decreasing the viscosity and wicking
in the epoxy (especially with warmed wood) without losing any of the
epoxy strength that dilution would cause.

- For the actual void filling, I add #410 Microlight filler (balloons)
to the resin-hardener mix to get a thick buttery consistency that I
then use to fill the void. You can adjust the thickness of the
mixture based upon your needs. Sometimes I add a bit of my own
sawdust flour but I find that if I use too much of my own sawdust
then the mixture ends up a bit gritty. After drying, you can sand
and drill the patch to make it seamless. You can also use #407 Low
density filler which is denser (and presumably harder) but also a
little more difficult to sand and shape once dry. According to West
Systems, it is recommended to seal coat it with a brushed on layer
of resin-hardener mix since sanding can leave open micropores where
the balloons are sliced open. I have always skipped that step and
have not had any problems.

The Sculptwood putty is a bit easier to apply since it is not as sticky
and goopy but I find that the very stickeness and goopiness of the
Microlight filler mixture gives better adhesion and a more integral
patch even if it is a little messier and requires more sanding when
finished. YMMV.

On the other hand the West System is reported to be an exceptionally
high quality epoxy and to be very versatile and tunable. It is used in
high-end boatbuilding and woodworking. Also, I find it in the long run
to be cheaper since with SystemThree you end up paying epoxy-like prices
for the thinned RotFix solution and for the mostly-filler Sculptwood
putty.

Hope this helps...

"Colbyt" writes:
"Higgs Boson" wrote in message
...
On Jan 28, 11:32 pm, blueman wrote:
internaughtfull writes:

My solution for outside is to always use an epoxy-based product (Bondo
is OK but it tends to be more brittle and not attach as well to wood
which over time results in separation from the wood when it repeatedly
expands & contracts). It's more expensive but should be a more permanent
and professional solution.

Could you suggest such an epoxy-based product? I have an oak doorsill
that shouldn't have been termite infested, but it was. I scraped out
all the crud that
I could, and drowned it in termite killer. Been years, and I have
not yet
repaired the damage and stained the area (assuming it will take a
stain).
Have been monitoring the pro- and anti-Bondo discussions with growing
confusion.


West Systems at this page: http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

is the epoxy product that I used. It turns soft wood into petrified wood in
about an hour.

Multiple coats may be required. Then I used Bondo to fill the holes.

After the spring thaw grin I will go take some pictures of the project I
did 7-8 years ago and see how it is holding up

Once you are going the route of West Systems, why not also use West
System Epoxy (with the appropriate filler) to fill the voids?

I find that Bondo does not adhere nearly as well and is not nearly as
strong which can result in the patch separating from the surrounding
wood. The epoxy patch can be drilled and depending on the filler can
have good structural strength which is not true for Bondo. Also, I find
the West System epoxy plus filler to be much easier to sculpt and
sand. Finally, the thing that I hate about Bondo is that it is very
sticky and difficult to work with. More importantly, Bondo just dries way
too fast (a couple of minutes) meaning that I often don't have enough
time to sculpt the patch nicely before it starts to dry and I have to
keep running back to clean off my tools and make multiple small batches
in my fight against drying time.

Now Bondo is a bit cheaper than epoxy, but not that much when you
consider that the fillers for West System are pretty cheap and stretch
your volume of epoxy.

"DanG" writes:
You can use 3M or other body filler.
Epoxy performs much better than body filler - see my other post.
You can use almost any 2
equal part epoxy system. You can use Durham's Rock hard water
putty, though it is not expressly for exterior work.

I would avoid water-based products for exterior use. I have found that
they don't hold up to water and I would not want to rely on paint to
keep moisture out forever.

None of these products will take stain. You will be performing a
paint or faux grain finish. If you insist on staying stainable,
remove and replace.

True. But an alternative is to add pigments or even stain to the wet
mixture. I have had good luck adding standard Minwood stains to both raw
wood filler and to epoxy. It may be hard to get an exact match and you
certainly won't match the grain, but at least you can make the patch
look less obvious. In general, if you are staining rather than painting,
then you are probably better off to use a wood plug or dutchman rather
than any type of fill.

replying to ransley, Michael Farnham wrote:
I patch holes for a living the best product is Durhams. There is no fix that
is permanent for wood. Bondo shrinks and cracks like everything else. also
looks like crap when done. paint sticks to neither without proper primer. A
coat of caulking over the top of either durhams or bondo helos keep the patch
in tact. Any moisture on either product will cause failure. top bottom sides
need to be painted completely.

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ix-421757-.htm

replying to ransley, Victoria Van Vliet wrote:
Man I RUINED my whole garage with that product. Durhams water putty ALSO DAP
Plastic wood! As soon as rain came it popped off like popcorn! Complete
failure with any water exposure!

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ix-421757-.htm

On Friday, August 25, 2017 at 9:44:10 AM UTC-5, Victoria Van Vliet wrote:

replying to ransley, Victoria Van Vliet wrote:

Man I RUINED my whole garage with that product. Durhams water putty ALSO DAP
Plastic wood! As soon as rain came it popped off like popcorn! Complete
failure with any water exposure!

for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...ix-421757-.htm


Another clueless twit from HomeMoanersHub that can't read. You're
replying to a SEVEN AND ONE HALF YEAR OLD thread.