Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a concrete
pad?

One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to keep
the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even more).

I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.

Godspeed wrote:
Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a
concrete pad?

One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to
keep the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even
more).

I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.

Drain it. Weld it.

Godspeed wrote:
Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a
concrete pad?

One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to
keep the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even
more).

I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.

Not enough information. Chances are, the tank is rusted, very thin,
difficult to fix. It may be possible to weld a plate over the area, it may
be possible to line the tank. If it is already lined, you cannot weld on it.

Inspection is needed to answer your question. There are companies that
specialize in tank repair. Call one to look at it.

On Tue, 12 Jan 2010 23:04:53 -0800, "Bob F"
wrote:

Godspeed wrote:
Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a
concrete pad?

One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to
keep the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even
more).

I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.

Drain it. Weld it.

or . .
Drain it. Replace it.

That was easy.

Jim

On Jan 13, 6:59*am, Jim Elbrecht wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jan 2010 23:04:53 -0800, "Bob F"
wrote:

Godspeed wrote:
Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a
concrete pad?

One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to
keep the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even
more).

I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.

Drain it. Weld it.

or . .
Drain it. Replace it.

That was easy.

Jim

Dont put the next steel tank directly on concrete

On Jan 13, 1:17*am, Godspeed wrote:
Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a concrete
pad?

One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to keep
the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even more).

I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.

1 - Fill the tank with some really nasty stuff...maybe even plumb your
toilets into it.

2 - Call Mike Rowe over at Dirty Jobs. He's always whining about
running out of Dirty Jobs for his show.

Maybe they'll come out and fix it for free.

On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 05:43:38 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Not enough information. Chances are, the tank is rusted, very thin

When the well had a problem in the summer, the well guy took a look at the
tank leak and said the tank was in "good shape" externally.

This steel tank is lying on very thin slats of wood (most of which are
rotted out). The two tanks are about 20 years old since the home is only
about 20 years old.

They're painted steel on the outside with absolutely no visible rust on the
outside. Inside, there is rust on the steel and there does not seem to be a
"lining" that I know of (the water inside looked yucky from the top but the
well guy said that's normal).

The well guy said he never "fixes" leaking water tanks. Said it's like
fixing a radiator on a car. Plug one spot and the hole opens up somewhere
else. He recommended a brand new non-steel tank. Sure. It's not his money.
That's twenty grand.

Of course a new tank is "better". But, does it pay to weld a plate?

Since the tanks are in great visual shape, I'm hoping there is a viable
fix-it solution. Does a "normal" welder do this kind of work or is there a
specialty shop somewhere out there like roto rooter or something?

Godspeed wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 05:43:38 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

Not enough information. Chances are, the tank is rusted, very thin

When the well had a problem in the summer, the well guy took a look at the
tank leak and said the tank was in "good shape" externally.

This steel tank is lying on very thin slats of wood (most of which are
rotted out). The two tanks are about 20 years old since the home is only
about 20 years old.

They're painted steel on the outside with absolutely no visible rust on the
outside. Inside, there is rust on the steel and there does not seem to be a
"lining" that I know of (the water inside looked yucky from the top but the
well guy said that's normal).

The well guy said he never "fixes" leaking water tanks. Said it's like
fixing a radiator on a car. Plug one spot and the hole opens up somewhere
else. He recommended a brand new non-steel tank. Sure. It's not his money.
That's twenty grand.

Of course a new tank is "better". But, does it pay to weld a plate?

Since the tanks are in great visual shape, I'm hoping there is a viable
fix-it solution. Does a "normal" welder do this kind of work or is there a
specialty shop somewhere out there like roto rooter or something?

Flat bottom or round? Upright/horizontal? Internal access?

Who knows from here?

As the well guy said, you can try but it's likely if it's rusted out in
one spot it's terribly thin in many.

A decent welder can do the welding; question nobody can tell w/o looking
is the condition overall and where the leak is, access, etc., etc.,
etc., ... You possibly could simply rotate it 180 and extend life;
otoh, disturbing it might open it up completely if it's really thin.

If this is just a residential installation, why such a large tank or are
not using a pressure pump? Could potentially go w/ a much smaller
pressure tank far cheaper.

--

"Godspeed" wrote in message
...
Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a
concrete
pad?

One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to keep
the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even more).

I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.


As a Journeyman welder and pipeline welder of 30 years, and as a few
other posters said, drain it and weld it. I have come across this
before...putting a patch on it will just prolong the enevitable. Cut the
bottom off it and weld a new one on. I used to build 35-50 thousand gallon
fuel tanks for the oil industry. Normal prodedure is after having replaced a
tank bottom. The outside bottom is covered in thick tar to prevent
rusting...doesn't really matter what it sits on then..ie wood, concrete,
soil. Hope that helps... Jim

On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 08:39:10 -0600, dpb wrote:

Flat bottom or round?
Flat bottom and top.

Upright/horizontal?
Upright. About 10 or 12 feet tall and about 8 or 10 feet wide. Cylinder.

Internal access?
Has about a 2-foot hatch on top for access. No ladder inside so I'm not
sure how you get to the bottom (or back up for that matter). I guess a thin
ladder would work.

As the well guy said, you can try but it's likely if it's rusted out in
one spot it's terribly thin in many.
It really "looks" good on the outside. I wonder if it's not just a pipe
leak somewhere on the bottom.

You possibly could simply rotate it 180 and extend life;
I don't think something that big can be moved.

If this is just a residential installation, why such a large tank
Large? I asked the well guy why everyone had 3 or 4 tanks and I only had 2
and he said anything over 10,000 gallons needs special earthquake
foundations so everyone just puts in a set of small 5,000 gallon tanks. So,
5,000 gallons, out here, is small since I can see on google clusters of 3,
4, and 5 tanks all around.

not using a pressure pump? Could potentially go w/ a much smaller
pressure tank far cheaper.

There is a 3-foot tall blue pressure tank in the well housing that has a
motor that pressurizes the water to about 80 psi (said the well guy). That
pressure tank is about 2 feet wide. Dunno exactly what it's for but it
seems to hold the pressureized water (all the water except the water to the
fire hydrant).

On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 08:53:29 -0600, Jim wrote:

Cut the bottom off it and weld a new one on.

That's an interesting idea since it's the bottom that must be leaking.

One question is how to "move" the tank. It's on quarter-inch thick wood
slats (most of which are eaten away by now). The other tank is on good
quarter inch slats so I assume the rot from the water ate away the wood.

Can something like this be tipped over? It's on a hill so I'd worry about
it rolling down the hill. Can the "bottom" be welded in place?

I guess straps can be used to hold it from rolling down the hill?

Godspeed wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 05:43:38 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:


The well guy said he never "fixes" leaking water tanks. Said it's like
fixing a radiator on a car. Plug one spot and the hole opens up somewhere
else. He recommended a brand new non-steel tank. Sure. It's not his money.
That's twenty grand.


Plastic water tanks are not that expensive.

Godspeed wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 08:39:10 -0600, dpb wrote:

Flat bottom or round?
Flat bottom and top.

Upright/horizontal?
Upright. About 10 or 12 feet tall and about 8 or 10 feet wide. Cylinder.

Internal access?
Has about a 2-foot hatch on top for access. No ladder inside so I'm not
sure how you get to the bottom (or back up for that matter). I guess a thin
ladder would work.

As the well guy said, you can try but it's likely if it's rusted out in
one spot it's terribly thin in many.
It really "looks" good on the outside. I wonder if it's not just a pipe
leak somewhere on the bottom.

OK, so the only way you could do anything about it anyway is either thru
the top hatch anyway unless there's an access underneath somewhere.

How is/was the connection made; where's the line?

The fact that what is visible looks good doesn't mean much (like
anything) in comparison to the bottom that isn't. You've got one dry
side every where except there; that side has been corroding from both
sides for a long time now so it is likely quite thin in many places. It
isn't uniformly thin, it'll have pitted locations and they'll be
scattered all around if that is the failure.

You possibly could simply rotate it 180 and extend life;
I don't think something that big can be moved.

Well, it got there, didn't it? I doubt it grew from seed...

If it were horizontal round, that's a doable thing. Cylindrical upright
not so much which is why asked...

If this is just a residential installation, why such a large tank
Large? I asked the well guy why everyone had 3 or 4 tanks and I only had 2
and he said anything over 10,000 gallons needs special earthquake
foundations so everyone just puts in a set of small 5,000 gallon tanks. So,
5,000 gallons, out here, is small since I can see on google clusters of 3,
4, and 5 tanks all around.
....

OK, you have your own fire protection supply, too. A 80/100 gal
pressure tank is typically sufficient for simply a residential water supply.

I'd wager a new tank is in your future; you may be able to put it off
but likely not repairable.

--

"Godspeed" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 05:43:38 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

The well guy said he never "fixes" leaking water tanks. Said it's like
fixing a radiator on a car. Plug one spot and the hole opens up somewhere
else.

Sounds to me like he is incompetent. The only radiator I ever fixed, stayed
fixed.

I would think the first step would be to inspect the tank to asses the
condition. While it could be that the tank is rusted so thin that repair is
not a viable option, it could also be that the damaged area is small and
easily repaired.

Also, even if the tank is almost rusted out, a repair might be able to be
made by using the steel skin as something to fiber glass on the inside. A
smelly job, but if it saves you 20 grand for a new tank then go for it.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

Jim wrote:
"Godspeed" wrote in message
...
Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a
concrete
pad?

One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to keep
the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even more).

I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.


As a Journeyman welder and pipeline welder of 30 years, and as a few
other posters said, drain it and weld it. I have come across this
before...putting a patch on it will just prolong the enevitable. Cut the
bottom off it and weld a new one on. I used to build 35-50 thousand gallon
fuel tanks for the oil industry. Normal prodedure is after having replaced a
tank bottom. The outside bottom is covered in thick tar to prevent
rusting...doesn't really matter what it sits on then..ie wood, concrete,
soil. Hope that helps... Jim

I'd guess maybe that it would cost as much or more for a 5000 gal tank
to do that as a new one by time paid rigging costs, etc. Certainly for
10X that but in a residential (apparently?) installation it'll be a
major hassle getting it done an all likelihood as compared to the
industrial setting where it was "just bidness"...

$0.02, etc., ... altho I suppose in an area that has requirement for
residential fire water storage there may be some folks around that
specialize so wouldn't be as big a deal as in most areas that don't have
such needs/installations at all commonly.

--

dpb wrote:
Godspeed wrote:

If this is just a residential installation, why such a large tank or are
not using a pressure pump? Could potentially go w/ a much smaller
pressure tank far cheaper.

I'm guessing he has no well and is collecting rainwater. I almost
bought a place that had all the rain from the roofs of the house and the
2000sq ft garage go into tanks. It wasn't being used anymore because
they now had city water. The "well guy" could be the guy who pipes that
water to a pump and a normal pressure tank. Just a guess because I've
seen it before.

On Jan 13, 12:17*am, Godspeed wrote:
Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a concrete
pad?

One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to keep
the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even more).

I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.

Consider replacing the tank. There is a huge stock of surplus food and
chemical processing tankage your can find with internet searches, and
Yellow Pages in some areas. With a bit of luck you may wind up with a
stainless steel vessel of the right size complete with pipe fittings.
Transportation is not a problem as the size you need fits easily on a
flat bed trailer or roll-off. If more than one tank from the surplus
company is available, consider buying two if the $$ look good, and
installing both, keeping the non leaker. When the last steel one
fails, you still will have an adequate storage system.

Joe

Roger Shoaf wrote:

"Godspeed" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 05:43:38 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

The well guy said he never "fixes" leaking water tanks. Said it's like
fixing a radiator on a car. Plug one spot and the hole opens up somewhere
else.

Sounds to me like he is incompetent. The only radiator I ever fixed, stayed
fixed.

I would think the first step would be to inspect the tank to asses the
condition. While it could be that the tank is rusted so thin that repair is
not a viable option, it could also be that the damaged area is small and
easily repaired.

Also, even if the tank is almost rusted out, a repair might be able to be
made by using the steel skin as something to fiber glass on the inside. A
smelly job, but if it saves you 20 grand for a new tank then go for it.


Since it's a flat bottom it may be possible to replace the entire bottom
if the rest of the tank is viable. Empty, even a tank that size isn't
that difficult to lift.

dpb wrote:

Jim wrote:
"Godspeed" wrote in message
...
Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a
concrete
pad?

One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to keep
the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even more).

I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.


As a Journeyman welder and pipeline welder of 30 years, and as a few
other posters said, drain it and weld it. I have come across this
before...putting a patch on it will just prolong the enevitable. Cut the
bottom off it and weld a new one on. I used to build 35-50 thousand gallon
fuel tanks for the oil industry. Normal prodedure is after having replaced a
tank bottom. The outside bottom is covered in thick tar to prevent
rusting...doesn't really matter what it sits on then..ie wood, concrete,
soil. Hope that helps... Jim

I'd guess maybe that it would cost as much or more for a 5000 gal tank
to do that as a new one by time paid rigging costs, etc. Certainly for
10X that but in a residential (apparently?) installation it'll be a
major hassle getting it done an all likelihood as compared to the
industrial setting where it was "just bidness"...

$0.02, etc., ... altho I suppose in an area that has requirement for
residential fire water storage there may be some folks around that
specialize so wouldn't be as big a deal as in most areas that don't have
such needs/installations at all commonly.

--

If these large tanks are common in the area, there might be some place
that specializes in installing a plastic bladder liner in them to extend
their useable lifespan.

On Jan 13, 10:35*am, Tony wrote:
dpb wrote:
Godspeed wrote:

If this is just a residential installation, why such a large tank or are
not using a pressure pump? *Could potentially go w/ a much smaller
pressure tank far cheaper.

I'm guessing he has no well and is collecting rainwater. *I almost
bought a place that had all the rain from the roofs of the house and the
2000sq ft garage go into tanks. *It wasn't being used anymore because
they now had city water. *The "well guy" could be the guy who pipes that
water to a pump and a normal pressure tank. *Just a guess because I've
seen it before.

Yeah, My Father in law did that. He collected the rain off of his 2700
sqft home and 1800 sqft work shop. Cistern was 7000 gal. I was amazed
at what a small rain it took to fill them.

Jimmie

On Jan 13, 7:14*am, Godspeed wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 08:39:10 -0600, dpb wrote:
Flat bottom or round? *

Flat bottom and top.

Upright/horizontal? *

Upright. About 10 or 12 feet tall and about 8 or 10 feet wide. Cylinder.

Internal access?

Has about a 2-foot hatch on top for access. No ladder inside so I'm not
sure how you get to the bottom (or back up for that matter). I guess a thin
ladder would work.

As the well guy said, you can try but it's likely if it's rusted out in
one spot it's terribly thin in many.

It really "looks" good on the outside. I wonder if it's not just a pipe
leak somewhere on the bottom.

You possibly could simply rotate it 180 and extend life;

I don't think something that big can be moved.

If this is just a residential installation, why such a large tank

Large? I asked the well guy why everyone had 3 or 4 tanks and I only had 2
and he said anything over 10,000 gallons needs special earthquake
foundations so everyone just puts in a set of small 5,000 gallon tanks. So,
5,000 gallons, out here, is small since I can see on google clusters of 3,
4, and 5 tanks all around.

not using a pressure pump? *Could potentially go w/ a much smaller
pressure tank far cheaper.

There is a 3-foot tall blue pressure tank in the well housing that has a
motor that pressurizes the water to about 80 psi (said the well guy). That
pressure tank is about 2 feet wide. Dunno exactly what it's for but it
seems to hold the pressureized water (all the water except the water to the
fire hydrant).

OP-

You've got a lot of smart. experienced guys trying to help you out
here but "situation" is not being laid out very clearly.

Where are you located? The tank is on wood slats, are they on a
concrete pad? How big is the pad?
Why do oyu need 5000 gallons? Or do you need even more? Something
about fire fighting?

Now oyu mention that perhaps fittings are leaking and not the tank.
The tank may only be rusted externally, poor maintainance?
Maybe the leak saturated the wood slats and promoted external
corrosion?

The details are coming out bit by bit. Now there is a second tank?
How long have the neighboring tanks lasted?

Galv steel can last a long time with non-corrosiove water quality.

If the tank is sound except for the bottom (as per other post) it
"could" reworked. A skilled welder could rig this thing, cut the
bottom off and repair but field repairs are hard to make as good as
new factory fabrication.

Call around and see if a welder can "do it all" .....don't drag the
guy out there for a bid, you'll be wasting his time.
Have all the details (measurements, installation, etc) so you can
answer his questions on the phone.

Check out new tanks online....delivered, I'll bet (unless your in BFE)
less than $3000. Installation extra.
With the price of a new tank (with installation if oyu cannot do it
yourself).......you'll know if a repair is worth while

From my keyboard, I recommend a repair if its less than $1000 and
start saving for a new one. Or can you get by with only one tank for
a while?
What is your well production rate?

But if you're going to own a property with a well, better plan on
getting handy or keep that check book ready.

cheers
Bob

On Jan 13, 7:14*am, Godspeed wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 08:39:10 -0600, dpb wrote:
Flat bottom or round? *

Flat bottom and top.

Upright/horizontal? *

Upright. About 10 or 12 feet tall and about 8 or 10 feet wide. Cylinder.

Internal access?

Has about a 2-foot hatch on top for access. No ladder inside so I'm not
sure how you get to the bottom (or back up for that matter). I guess a thin
ladder would work.

As the well guy said, you can try but it's likely if it's rusted out in
one spot it's terribly thin in many.

It really "looks" good on the outside. I wonder if it's not just a pipe
leak somewhere on the bottom.

You possibly could simply rotate it 180 and extend life;

I don't think something that big can be moved.

If this is just a residential installation, why such a large tank

Large? I asked the well guy why everyone had 3 or 4 tanks and I only had 2
and he said anything over 10,000 gallons needs special earthquake
foundations so everyone just puts in a set of small 5,000 gallon tanks. So,
5,000 gallons, out here, is small since I can see on google clusters of 3,
4, and 5 tanks all around.

not using a pressure pump? *Could potentially go w/ a much smaller
pressure tank far cheaper.

There is a 3-foot tall blue pressure tank in the well housing that has a
motor that pressurizes the water to about 80 psi (said the well guy). That
pressure tank is about 2 feet wide. Dunno exactly what it's for but it
seems to hold the pressureized water (all the water except the water to the
fire hydrant).

Godspeed wrote:
....

... He recommended a brand new non-steel tank. Sure. It's not his money.
That's twenty grand.

...

That's almost 10X an estimate for a tank alone I'd think; at least if it
doesn't have to be potable (but even there I'm sure their available for
much less than $20k @ 5000 gal.

Assuming you're in CA from the fire protection requirement, here's one
link that might be of some interest--they have black poly from roughly
the $2k range.

http://www.watertanks.com/contact.asp

--

Pete C. wrote:
dpb wrote:

Jim wrote:
"Godspeed" wrote in message
...
Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a
concrete
pad?

One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough
to keep the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out
even more).

I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.


As a Journeyman welder and pipeline welder of 30 years, and as
a few other posters said, drain it and weld it. I have come across
this before...putting a patch on it will just prolong the
enevitable. Cut the bottom off it and weld a new one on. I used to
build 35-50 thousand gallon fuel tanks for the oil industry. Normal
prodedure is after having replaced a tank bottom. The outside
bottom is covered in thick tar to prevent rusting...doesn't really
matter what it sits on then..ie wood, concrete, soil. Hope that
helps... Jim

I'd guess maybe that it would cost as much or more for a 5000 gal
tank to do that as a new one by time paid rigging costs, etc.
Certainly for 10X that but in a residential (apparently?)
installation it'll be a major hassle getting it done an all
likelihood as compared to the industrial setting where it was "just
bidness"...

$0.02, etc., ... altho I suppose in an area that has requirement for
residential fire water storage there may be some folks around that
specialize so wouldn't be as big a deal as in most areas that don't
have such needs/installations at all commonly.

--

If these large tanks are common in the area, there might be some place
that specializes in installing a plastic bladder liner in them to
extend their useable lifespan.

I've seen ads on craigslist for huge bladders used for storage of water without
a tank. One of these could perhaps be used inside the tank, or in place of it.

http://www.google.com/search?q=water+storage+bladders&rls=com.microsoft: en-us&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1

Can you dry it out, add some Por-15, and shake the tank? Let
it dry.

Hint: this is a troll.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Godspeed" wrote in message
...
Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water
tank on a concrete
pad?

One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but
enough to keep
the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even
more).

I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind
of leak.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
Can you dry it out, add some Por-15, and shake the tank? Let
it dry.

Hint: this is a troll.

I wonder if that "rhino liner" stuff is "food grade". It might do wonders
sprayed on the inside of the tank.

"Godspeed" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 08:53:29 -0600, Jim wrote:

Cut the bottom off it and weld a new one on.

That's an interesting idea since it's the bottom that must be leaking.

One question is how to "move" the tank. It's on quarter-inch thick wood
slats (most of which are eaten away by now). The other tank is on good
quarter inch slats so I assume the rot from the water ate away the wood.

Can something like this be tipped over? It's on a hill so I'd worry about
it rolling down the hill. Can the "bottom" be welded in place?

I guess straps can be used to hold it from rolling down the hill?

No Godspeed it can't be done on it's side... It's gotta be lifted straight
up using a "gin pole" laying it on it's side will only egg shape it under
its own weight. we lay them on their side after the bottom has been welded
on and use a paint roller to apply the tar.... Jim

"Jim" nospam@wherever wrote in message
el...

"Godspeed" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 08:53:29 -0600, Jim wrote:

Cut the bottom off it and weld a new one on.

That's an interesting idea since it's the bottom that must be leaking.

One question is how to "move" the tank. It's on quarter-inch thick wood
slats (most of which are eaten away by now). The other tank is on good
quarter inch slats so I assume the rot from the water ate away the wood.

Can something like this be tipped over? It's on a hill so I'd worry about
it rolling down the hill. Can the "bottom" be welded in place?

I guess straps can be used to hold it from rolling down the hill?

No Godspeed it can't be done on it's side... It's gotta be lifted straight
up using a "gin pole" laying it on it's side will only egg shape it under
its own weight. we lay them on their side after the bottom has been welded
on and use a paint roller to apply the tar.... Jim




Better yet...EMail my welding business at ...... morriswelding at
sasktel dot net ....send me photos and I'll coach you from there...I
am home on time off (Wife is doing treatments after BEATING breast cancer)
so am home and am looking for something to do to keep my mind busy...so I'll
give you all the free advice you need while I'm sitting at home...Jim

On Jan 13, 7:03*pm, "Jim" nospam@wherever wrote:
"Jim" nospam@wherever wrote in message

el...







"Godspeed" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 08:53:29 -0600, Jim wrote:

Cut the bottom off it and weld a new one on.

That's an interesting idea since it's the bottom that must be leaking.

One question is how to "move" the tank. It's on quarter-inch thick wood
slats (most of which are eaten away by now). The other tank is on good
quarter inch slats so I assume the rot from the water ate away the wood.

Can something like this be tipped over? It's on a hill so I'd worry about
it rolling down the hill. Can the "bottom" be welded in place?

I guess straps can be used to hold it from rolling down the hill?

No Godspeed it can't be done on it's side... It's gotta be lifted straight
up using a "gin pole" laying it on it's side will only egg shape it under
its own weight. we lay them on their side after the bottom has been welded
on and use a paint roller to apply the tar.... Jim

* *Better yet...EMail my welding business at ...... * * morriswelding at
sasktel dot net * * * *....send me photos and I'll coach you from there...I
am home on time off (Wife is doing treatments after BEATING breast cancer)
so am home and am looking for something to do to keep my mind busy...so I'll
give you all the free advice you need while I'm sitting at home...Jim



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No one has mentioned chewing gum!!

"hr(bob) " wrote in message
...
On Jan 13, 7:03 pm, "Jim" nospam@wherever wrote:
"Jim" nospam@wherever wrote in message

el...







"Godspeed" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 08:53:29 -0600, Jim wrote:

Cut the bottom off it and weld a new one on.

That's an interesting idea since it's the bottom that must be leaking.

One question is how to "move" the tank. It's on quarter-inch thick wood
slats (most of which are eaten away by now). The other tank is on good
quarter inch slats so I assume the rot from the water ate away the
wood.

Can something like this be tipped over? It's on a hill so I'd worry
about
it rolling down the hill. Can the "bottom" be welded in place?

I guess straps can be used to hold it from rolling down the hill?

No Godspeed it can't be done on it's side... It's gotta be lifted
straight
up using a "gin pole" laying it on it's side will only egg shape it
under
its own weight. we lay them on their side after the bottom has been
welded
on and use a paint roller to apply the tar.... Jim

Better yet...EMail my welding business at ...... morriswelding at
sasktel dot net ....send me photos and I'll coach you from there...I
am home on time off (Wife is doing treatments after BEATING breast cancer)
so am home and am looking for something to do to keep my mind busy...so
I'll
give you all the free advice you need while I'm sitting at home...Jim



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No one has mentioned chewing gum!!

SHHHHHH bob yer gonna put me out of business...lol Jim

In ,
Godspeed typed:
Anyone know how to fix a leaking 5000 gallon steel water tank on a
concrete pad?

One of two tanks is leaking from the bottom. Not much, but enough to
keep the concrete always wet (which likely is rusting it out even
more).

I can't figure out how one would go about fixing this kind of leak.

If it's that small a leak, and the surrounding material is in good shape,
they make screw-in patches for those. It's like a short lag screw with a
rubber washer that you just screw into the hole. Decide the size you need,
then get two: one you think you need and the next larger size too, just in
case. Works well and will stand up to the pressure. Sounds like it's just a
pinhole right now so timing's good.

Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Can you dry it out, add some Por-15, and shake the tank? Let
it dry.

Hint: this is a troll.

I wonder if that "rhino liner" stuff is "food grade". It might do wonders
sprayed on the inside of the tank.



How do they get the Rhino to hold still?

TDD

Godspeed wrote:

Of course a new tank is "better". But, does it pay to weld a plate?

Since the tanks are in great visual shape, I'm hoping there is a
viable fix-it solution. Does a "normal" welder do this kind of work
or is there a specialty shop somewhere out there like roto rooter or
something?

Most any weld shop can do it. Typical welder is about $75 to $100 an hour +
materials + travel time.

If the leak is on the bottom, it may be difficult to get to. If there is
one leak, there may be others. As I said, it has to be seen to be properly
determined what action to take. It may just be a pin hole leak in one spot,
it may be a pile of rust held together by paint.

The Daring Dufas wrote:
Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Can you dry it out, add some Por-15, and shake the tank? Let
it dry.

Hint: this is a troll.

I wonder if that "rhino liner" stuff is "food grade". It might do
wonders sprayed on the inside of the tank.



How do they get the Rhino to hold still?

TDD

You don't want to keep him still. It is sprayed on Rhino pee. Getting him
to aim is the trick.

On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 20:42:10 -0600, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Can you dry it out, add some Por-15, and shake the tank? Let
it dry.

Hint: this is a troll.

I wonder if that "rhino liner" stuff is "food grade". It might do wonders
sprayed on the inside of the tank.



How do they get the Rhino to hold still?

TDD

Large caliber ammo?! Single shot. maybe?

On Jan 13, 11:26�pm, Oren wrote:
On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 20:42:10 -0600, The Daring Dufas





wrote:
Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Can you dry it out, add some Por-15, and shake the tank? Let
it dry.

Hint: this is a troll.

I wonder if that "rhino liner" stuff is "food grade". It might do wonders
sprayed on the inside of the tank.

How do they get the Rhino to hold still?

TDD

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replace steel tank with plastic one. no more rust.

the old tank is likely rusted out

On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 09:28:35 -0600, dpb wrote:

OK, so the only way you could do anything about it anyway is either thru
the top hatch anyway unless there's an access underneath somewhere.

There does not appear to be any access other than from the top.

How is/was the connection made; where's the line?

The well water comes in from the top of the leaking tank.

There is a four-inch fire-hydrant line connecting the two 5000 gallon tanks
near the bottom; so as the leaking tank fills, it fills the second 5000
gallon tank in parallel. Presumably that 4" line will will "almost" empty
the tank should we need to drain it. Each tank has a large 8'inch wide
circular handle on that four-inch line to isolate each tank from the other.

At about the 1/3 empty mark of the tank that is leaking, there is the water
outflow for the house. This steel outflow pipe is about two inches wide.
Presumably the house can only use the top 2/3 of the water in the tanks
while the unpressurized fire hydrant can use almost all of it.

I'd wager a new tank is in your future; you may be able to put it off
but likely not repairable.

I was afraid of that.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:
Bob F wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:
Can you dry it out, add some Por-15, and shake the tank? Let
it dry.

Hint: this is a troll.
I wonder if that "rhino liner" stuff is "food grade". It might do
wonders sprayed on the inside of the tank.


How do they get the Rhino to hold still?

TDD

You don't want to keep him still. It is sprayed on Rhino pee. Getting him
to aim is the trick.



I thought the liner was used to make the Rhino's eyes look pretty.

TDD

On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 09:52:51 -0800 (PST), DD_BobK wrote:

The tank is on wood slats, are they on a concrete pad?

Yes. The concrete pad is about 20 feet long by about 10 feet wide and it
has the two tanks sitting on it, side by side, with a small well house off
to one end where there pressure pump resides and the top of the well sits
along with three or four electric panels.

Why do oyu need 5000 gallons? Or do you need even more?
Something about fire fighting?

I think 10,000 gallons is about right for the house. All the neighbors seem
to have larger sets of tanks than just two. I misspoke before about the
10,000 gallons needing special earthquake floating pads; it's anything over
5,001 gallons which needs the special pad so that's why everyone has sets
of 5,000 gallons.

Now you mention that perhaps fittings are leaking and not the tank.

I was hoping it was the fittings but when I asked the well guy, he said the
only fittings were those I could see on the sides and top of the tank:
0. Tank 1 is leaking; tank 2 is connected to tank 1 by a 4-inch valved pipe
1. The well pumps water into the top of tank 1 via about a 2-inch line
2. The water comes out of tank 1 at about the 1/3 level for the house
3. From there, the water goes to pressure pump and a blue pressure tank
4. From the blue pressure tank, the water goes into the house
5. Additionally, the 4-inch line near the bottom of each tank goes to an
unpressurized fire hydrant called a "wharf hydrant" by the fire department

None of these fittings are leaking. I was hoping there was a 'drain plug'
or something on the bottom of the tank but the well guy said it would just
be a weak spot to start leaking.


The tank may only be rusted externally, poor maintainance?
Maybe the leak saturated the wood slats and promoted external
corrosion?

Certainly it's not helping the situation that the wood slats are constantly
wet.

The details are coming out bit by bit. Now there is a second tank?
How long have the neighboring tanks lasted?

Very good question! This house is 20 years old and I'd guess the other
houses are similar since I saw a map from the 70s which didn't even show a
paved road. Most houses here are probably less than 20 years old. I will
see if I can ask how long their tanks lasted, but some seem to be made out
of wood (at least on the outside) and some are green plastic with awnings
over them (mine is painted steel with no awnings).

Galv steel can last a long time with non-corrosiove water quality.
With all that rust on the inside, I'd suspect it's not galvanized. I wonder
how else I can tell?

If the tank is sound except for the bottom (as per other post) it
"could" be reworked. A skilled welder could rig this thing, cut the
bottom off and repair but field repairs are hard to make as good as
new factory fabrication.

Interesting idea! I hadn't thought that they could "cut the bottom off".
That would solve the problem, wouldn't it? One problem is that it must be
darn hard to get heavy equipment up the hill where the tanks are, but, they
must have gotten the trucks in there somehow. The well guy things they went
from the neighbor's yard.

Nobody, until you, suggested cutting the bottom off. The previous idea was
to patch it and I understood the problem of "patching the radiator". But,
if we can cut the bottom off, then it seems to me the results should be
pretty good, right?

Call around and see if a welder can "do it all" .....don't drag the
guy out there for a bid, you'll be wasting his time.
Have all the details (measurements, installation, etc) so you can
answer his questions on the phone.

I will do that. I guess I also need someone to "tip" the tank over so the
welder can work it on the side, right?

Check out new tanks online....delivered, I'll bet (unless your in BFE)
less than $3000. Installation extra.

I will report back. Would you suggest I research steel (1:1 replacement) or
some other material? I see wood and plastic tanks all around the hillside.

With the price of a new tank (with installation if oyu cannot do it
yourself).......you'll know if a repair is worth while

I see the plan.
a) Get a rough phone-call estimate from a welder for a new steel bottom
b) Get a rough estimate for a new tank from the Internet
c) Compare & decide

What is your well production rate?

Not good. The well guy tested it at 400 feet deep and he ran the well for
an hour and it shut off twice (he had to flip the breakers on and off to
restart the pump). He said the water level dropped 15 feet in that hour and
that we were getting only about 6 gallons a minute (I can double check the
paperwork).

But if you're going to own a property with a well, better plan on
getting handy or keep that check book ready.

I'm ok with learning. That's why I'm here asking and responding!

On Wed, 13 Jan 2010 10:35:11 -0500, Tony wrote:

I almost bought a place that had all the rain from the roof

The next door neighbor actually does collect rainwater off his roof and
feeds it to a 22,000 gallon underground tank for his irrigation needs but
mine is well water.

There are two wells on the property, one of which the well inspector said
was useless and is currently turned off at its breaker. The other well is
the one that supplies all the water needs.