hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, in both
cases the cut would end up the same.

"Zephyr" wrote in message
...
hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, in both
cases the cut would end up the same.



It's all in the wrist. You probably have a normal inclination to pull to
one side the way you hold the saw. Forget for the moment about good looks,
but before you cut, make a line on the log. Now make your cut and follow
the line and it may even feel a little awkward at first if you have a
natural tendency to pull to the side. The visual correction can get you on
the right path to straight cuts and then it will be a natural thing for you.

I'm going to assume you know all the safety rules, brace the log, wear
protective clothing, eye protection, etc.

Zephyr wrote:
hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?
....

Other than Ed's suggestion I'd look at whether the chain is
filed/sharpened evenly. It may just be wanting to go that way to
minimize effort. Particularly, perhaps hit something embedded on left
side that wasn't terribly noticeable but did dull them moreso than right.

--

On Sep 21, 2:38*pm, dpb wrote:
Zephyr wrote:
hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, *the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

...

Other than Ed's suggestion I'd look at whether the chain is
filed/sharpened evenly. *It may just be wanting to go that way to
minimize effort. *Particularly, perhaps hit something embedded on left
side that wasn't terribly noticeable but did dull them moreso than right.

--

Dull blade, bent bar, poor lube

Chain is dull on one side.

Zephyr wrote:
hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, in both
cases the cut would end up the same.

On Sep 21, 12:02*pm, "__ Bøb __" wrote:
Chain is dull on one side.



Zephyr wrote:
hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, *the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, * in both
cases the cut would end up the same.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Your chain is not sharpened correctly. It cuts more on one side than
the other. There are other causes as someone mentioned but they are
rare. Have your chain sharpened at a shop and try it again. Cost
usually between $5-8

Harry K

On Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:06:19 -0700 (PDT), Zephyr
wrote:

hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, in both
cases the cut would end up the same.



Are you using a sawbuck? Chainsaw all tuned up?

"Zephyr" wrote in message
...
hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, in both
cases the cut would end up the same.

In order to cut perfect logs, do as I say, not as I do, as I, too come up
with some pretty gruesome cuts ................

Simple answer: use the teeth, explained below.

1. Make or build a jack. Something that lets you get the log up to waist
high. Think X shaped sawhorse cradle. Make it strong, and I suggest tube
steel. You can't get a straight angle of attack if the thing is on the
ground, and besides, you'll hit the dirt and smoke a chain in two seconds.
2. Center your off hand on the brake bar, cuz if it is one way or the
other, this can cause drift.
3. Hold with firm but even pressure with your trigger hand.
4. Come down as vertically as you can eyeball it to start your cut, and cut
about two or three inches deep AND WITH THE NOSE OF THE SAW AT AN UPWARD TEN
TO TWENTY DEGREE ANGLE.
5. Now, and importantly, let the saw blade go all the way into the wood
until the teeth engage the wood. Even if you are at an angle, this will
help get at least a straight cut from there and not a curved one.
5. With a repeated up and down motion, saw for a while, lift the handle of
the saw, push down lightly with the brake hand, let it cut, then pull it
back about a foot in started cut groove and let the saw pull itself into the
teeth again. Keep see-sawing. Let off the gas as you move the saw around.
6. The teeth are put there for a couple of reasons. One is to lessen
kickback, and the other is to give you a leverage point where you can
fulcrum the blade into the work instead of pushing with two hands that you
can never perfectly push evenly with.
7. Use all safety gear, and precautions so that when you cut off some log,
your buck doesn't have a lot of weight hanging in space and go flying up.
Support the end of the log each time. Watch your drops, or you will soon
have a pile, and have them rolling into your shin or onto your toes.
8. Of course, have a sharp blade, a good bar, plenty of bar oil in
reservoir, and know the proper tension of the chain. When held up, the
chain should hang 1/8" or a little more under the bar. (The actual space
between the low spot on the chain and the bar.) See your manual for exact.
9. Watch for marks on the bar that come from high heat, such as
discoloration. If you see that, something's not right, and stop and find
out before you start again.
10. Lastly, let the saw cut. Don't force it. It will chew through some
sections faster than others, and if you are gnawing on a knot, it will go
slower, so there's no need to apply more pressure and smoke a chain or a
bar. If you ever see sparks, it's probably from something metal. STOP!
instantly and see if there is a nail or some grown in barbed wire, or where
the sparks are coming from. Anything metal will eat a chain in less than
two seconds.

Anyway, that's how I do it, and I have to go outside soon and cut about five
cords for the coming winter. Making good perpendicular cuts sure makes it
nice when you put it on the splitter. Also, pay attention, and cut the logs
at just the right length for the stove they are to go in.

HTH

Steve

The time that happened to me, I had to take the chain off,
and flat file the bar, which was unevenly worn.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Zephyr" wrote in message
...
hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an
issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the
right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work
harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to
run the
saw without touching them against the log I was cutting,
in both
cases the cut would end up the same.

On Sep 21, 12:06*pm, Zephyr wrote:
hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, *the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, * in both
cases the cut would end up the same.

Thanks everyone for your input!
I think I will change the chain and give it a go again. I was looking
at the dust being kicked out by the saw, and it looked really fine
compared to the larger bits of wood the chain was throwing earlier.
I'm guessing the chain is starting to dull, and with me trying to push
it, I was sending it off. The chain wears so gradually I don't notice
it right away.

thanks again!

Dave

Zephyr wrote:
hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, in both
cases the cut would end up the same.

Every time I've seen that problem it was due to the chain needing
sharpening, or it wasn't sharpened properly. Just a few days ago I
tried taking a little shortcut while sharpening the chain, yep it cut in
a curve. Sharpened it properly and it worked just fine.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
The time that happened to me, I had to take the chain off,
and flat file the bar, which was unevenly worn.

I can't quite picture what you mean? But... I did learn that each time
I remove the bar, I flip it over so it wears evenly. If you still have
paint on the bar, the writing will be upside down.

On Sep 21, 12:39*pm, "SteveB" wrote:
"Zephyr" wrote in message

...





hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, *the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, * in both
cases the cut would end up the same.

In order to cut perfect logs, do as I say, not as I do, as I, too come up
with some pretty gruesome cuts ................

Simple answer: use the teeth, explained below.

1. *Make or build a jack. *Something that lets you get the log up to waist
high. *Think X shaped sawhorse cradle. *Make it strong, and I suggest tube
steel. *You can't get a straight angle of attack if the thing is on the
ground, and besides, you'll hit the dirt and smoke a chain in two seconds..
2. *Center your off hand on the brake bar, cuz if it is one way or the
other, this can cause drift.
3. *Hold with firm but even pressure with your trigger hand.
4. *Come down as vertically as you can eyeball it to start your cut, and cut
about two or three inches deep AND WITH THE NOSE OF THE SAW AT AN UPWARD TEN
TO TWENTY DEGREE ANGLE.
5. *Now, and importantly, let the saw blade go all the way into the wood
until the teeth engage the wood. *Even if you are at an angle, this will
help get at least a straight cut from there and not a curved one.
5. *With a repeated up and down motion, saw for a while, lift the handle of
the saw, push down lightly with the brake hand, let it cut, then pull it
back about a foot in started cut groove and let the saw pull itself into the
teeth again. *Keep see-sawing. *Let off the gas as you move the saw around.
6. *The teeth are put there for a couple of reasons. *One is to lessen
kickback, and the other is to give you a leverage point where you can
fulcrum the blade into the work instead of pushing with two hands that you
can never perfectly push evenly with.
7. *Use all safety gear, and precautions so that when you cut off some log,
your buck doesn't have a lot of weight hanging in space and go flying up.
Support the end of the log each time. *Watch your drops, or you will soon
have a pile, and have them rolling into your shin or onto your toes.
8. *Of course, have a sharp blade, a good bar, plenty of bar oil in
reservoir, and know the proper tension of the chain. *When held up, the
chain should hang 1/8" or a little more under the bar. *(The actual space
between the low spot on the chain and the bar.) *See your manual for exact.
9. *Watch for marks on the bar that come from high heat, such as
discoloration. *If you see that, something's not right, and stop and find
out before you start again.
10. *Lastly, let the saw cut. *Don't force it. *It will chew through some
sections faster than others, and if you are gnawing on a knot, it will go
slower, so there's no need to apply more pressure and smoke a chain or a
bar. *If you ever see sparks, it's probably from something metal. *STOP!
instantly and see if there is a nail or some grown in barbed wire, or where
the sparks are coming from. *Anything metal will eat a chain in less than
two seconds.

Anyway, that's how I do it, and I have to go outside soon and cut about five
cords for the coming winter. *Making good perpendicular cuts sure makes it
nice when you put it on the splitter. *Also, pay attention, and cut the logs
at just the right length for the stove they are to go in.

HTH

Steve- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

A sample of "a little knowledge is a dangerous thing'. If you have to
apply pressue to make the saw cut, your chain needs to be sharpened
and you NEVER hold onto the brake bar. It is not a handhold ...well,
it can be used when carrying the saw but that is it.

'repeated up down movements" LOL.

Your comments apply only to someone cutting with a dull chain.

Harry K

The chain fits into a groove. If one side of the groove is
lower, the chain tilts and pulls toward that side. Flat file
across the groove (perpendicular to the bar). It's hard to
describe in a text only email.

Flip the bar over is like rotate the tires on your vehicle.
Both are very good ideas.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Tony" wrote in message
...
Stormin Mormon wrote:
The time that happened to me, I had to take the chain off,
and flat file the bar, which was unevenly worn.

I can't quite picture what you mean? But... I did learn
that each time
I remove the bar, I flip it over so it wears evenly. If you
still have
paint on the bar, the writing will be upside down.

On Sep 22, 9:29*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
The chain fits into a groove. If one side of the groove is
lower, the chain tilts and pulls toward that side. Flat file
across the groove (perpendicular to the bar). It's hard to
describe in a text only email.

Flip the bar over is like rotate the tires on your vehicle.
Both are very good ideas.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Tony" wrote in message

...

Stormin Mormon wrote:
The time that happened to me, I had to take the chain off,
and flat file the bar, which was unevenly worn.

I can't quite picture what you mean? *But... I did learn
that each time
I remove the bar, I flip it over so it wears evenly. *If you
still have
paint on the bar, the writing will be upside down.

The best thing you can do for yourself after you learn how to use the
saw is to learn how to maintain it. Find someone who knows how to
properly sharpen a saw and have him/her teach you. Every time I use it
for any period of time I inspect the bar and sharpen the chain before
putting it to rest.

On Sep 22, 5:11*am, jim wrote:
On Sep 22, 9:29*am, "Stormin Mormon"





wrote:
The chain fits into a groove. If one side of the groove is
lower, the chain tilts and pulls toward that side. Flat file
across the groove (perpendicular to the bar). It's hard to
describe in a text only email.

Flip the bar over is like rotate the tires on your vehicle.
Both are very good ideas.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

"Tony" wrote in message

...

Stormin Mormon wrote:
The time that happened to me, I had to take the chain off,
and flat file the bar, which was unevenly worn.

I can't quite picture what you mean? *But... I did learn
that each time
I remove the bar, I flip it over so it wears evenly. *If you
still have
paint on the bar, the writing will be upside down.

The best thing you can do for yourself after you learn how to use the
saw is to learn how to maintain it. Find someone who knows how to
properly sharpen a saw and have him/her teach you. Every time I use it
for any period of time I inspect the bar and sharpen the chain before
putting it to rest.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yep. Disassemble and give it a good blow out with the compressor,
clean the air filter, dig the crud out of the bar grooves (thin
screwdriver or the hooks on your debth gauge file guide), sharpen and
flip the bar. I do all that about every 2-3 uses. I sharpen just as
soon as the saw won't pull it's way through the cut without pressure
or shows the slightest sign of cutting crooked.

Harry K

Zephyr wrote:
On Sep 21, 12:06 pm, Zephyr wrote:
hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, in both
cases the cut would end up the same.

Thanks everyone for your input!
I think I will change the chain and give it a go again. I was looking
at the dust being kicked out by the saw, and it looked really fine
compared to the larger bits of wood the chain was throwing earlier.
I'm guessing the chain is starting to dull, and with me trying to push
it, I was sending it off. The chain wears so gradually I don't notice
it right away.


It only takes a few minutes to sharpen the chain with a file.

Stormin Mormon wrote:
The chain fits into a groove. If one side of the groove is
lower, the chain tilts and pulls toward that side. Flat file
across the groove (perpendicular to the bar). It's hard to
describe in a text only email.

OK, I understand now.

Flip the bar over is like rotate the tires on your vehicle.
Both are very good ideas.

"Zephyr" wrote in message
...
hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, in both
cases the cut would end up the same.




Flip the bar over, put the saw back together and try again. Is it still
your "technique", or is it cutting better now?

Word to the wise, some bars are'nt meant to be flipped over. If yours is
concentric, and has oiler holes in both sides, you should be OK.

HTH, Lefty

Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"Zephyr" wrote in message
...
hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, in both
cases the cut would end up the same.



It's all in the wrist. You probably have a normal inclination to pull to
one side the way you hold the saw. Forget for the moment about good looks,
but before you cut, make a line on the log. Now make your cut and follow
the line and it may even feel a little awkward at first if you have a
natural tendency to pull to the side. The visual correction can get you on
the right path to straight cuts and then it will be a natural thing for you.

I'm going to assume you know all the safety rules, brace the log, wear
protective clothing, eye protection, etc.

Some advice:

- Use the teeth at the front of the saw to provide a pivot point to
rotate the bar into the log.
- Stand at an angle to the bar so that in the event of kickback the bar
will swing past you, not into you.
- Go to a "real" power equipment place and have them make you a new
chain of the Oregon Micro-Chisel chain.
- Pay close attention to the warnings on the new chain box that say it's
a professional non anti-kickback chain.
- Be amazed at how much better a real pro chain performs vs. a consumer
anti-kickback chain.

Also:

- Get a pair of anti-vibration gloves with the gell-foam inserts in the
palm and fingers, really helps the carpal tunnel.