Ed Pawlowski wrote:

"Zephyr" wrote in message
...
hey all,

I was cutting wood for about 3 hrs on sat, and ran into an issue that
I think can be solved with better technique...
I find that most of my cuts always end "curving" to the right as I
progress thru the log.
IE, the cut wood does not have a flat level surface.

its not a huge deal, but, it makes me and the saw work harder than
necessary ;

any suggestions on what might be done to fix that?

I used the "teeth" on the body of the saw, and also tried to run the
saw without touching them against the log I was cutting, in both
cases the cut would end up the same.



It's all in the wrist. You probably have a normal inclination to pull to
one side the way you hold the saw. Forget for the moment about good looks,
but before you cut, make a line on the log. Now make your cut and follow
the line and it may even feel a little awkward at first if you have a
natural tendency to pull to the side. The visual correction can get you on
the right path to straight cuts and then it will be a natural thing for you.

I'm going to assume you know all the safety rules, brace the log, wear
protective clothing, eye protection, etc.

Some advice:

- Use the teeth at the front of the saw to provide a pivot point to
rotate the bar into the log.
- Stand at an angle to the bar so that in the event of kickback the bar
will swing past you, not into you.
- Go to a "real" power equipment place and have them make you a new
chain of the Oregon Micro-Chisel chain.
- Pay close attention to the warnings on the new chain box that say it's
a professional non anti-kickback chain.
- Be amazed at how much better a real pro chain performs vs. a consumer
anti-kickback chain.

Also:

- Get a pair of anti-vibration gloves with the gell-foam inserts in the
palm and fingers, really helps the carpal tunnel.