I now have a decent abrasive cutoff saw, cuts at 90 and 45 degrees. I want to
make a frame from 2" pipe, 45'ed at the corners. I'm trying to figure out a
clever way to ensure that when I cut the second end it winds up being parallel
to the first cut end. Probably doesn't matter that much, but I've found that
proper cutting seems to really help in controlling welding distortion, and I'd
really like this frame to be flat (i.e. planar).

GWE

On Tue, 28 Feb 2006 09:24:25 -0800, Grant Erwin
wrote:

I now have a decent abrasive cutoff saw, cuts at 90 and 45 degrees. I want to
make a frame from 2" pipe, 45'ed at the corners. I'm trying to figure out a
clever way to ensure that when I cut the second end it winds up being parallel
to the first cut end. Probably doesn't matter that much, but I've found that
proper cutting seems to really help in controlling welding distortion, and I'd
really like this frame to be flat (i.e. planar).


Several ways to go about it but one of the better methods is to
attach a flat piece to the pipe in some manner (V block clamped, tack
a piece of flat iron, etc.) and use a level before clamping and making
each cut.

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I now have a decent abrasive cutoff saw, cuts at 90 and 45 degrees. I want
to make a frame from 2" pipe, 45'ed at the corners. I'm trying to figure
out a clever way to ensure that when I cut the second end it winds up being
parallel to the first cut end. Probably doesn't matter that much, but I've
found that proper cutting seems to really help in controlling welding
distortion, and I'd really like this frame to be flat (i.e. planar).

GWE

Grant

Use a level held verticaly against the already cut face and rotate the pipe
until it
shows plumb. Your next cut should be parallel to the first cut. You could
probably
eyeball it with a straight edge the same way but the level will tell you for
sure.

Bruce

Clamp or tack a piece of angle to the pipe. Then use a level to plumb it
before each cut.

Paul K. Dickman

"Grant Erwin" wrote in message
...
I now have a decent abrasive cutoff saw, cuts at 90 and 45 degrees. I want
to make a frame from 2" pipe, 45'ed at the corners. I'm trying to figure
out a clever way to ensure that when I cut the second end it winds up being
parallel to the first cut end. Probably doesn't matter that much, but I've
found that proper cutting seems to really help in controlling welding
distortion, and I'd really like this frame to be flat (i.e. planar).

GWE

Simple enough. Lay the pipe on an edge and square it to the edge plane.
Mark the pipe at both ends so both marks are planar. When cutting,
eyeball or make a fixture on the saw to index the marks correctly with
the saw when cutting each end.
JR
Dweller in the cellar

Grant Erwin wrote:
I now have a decent abrasive cutoff saw, cuts at 90 and 45 degrees. I
want to make a frame from 2" pipe, 45'ed at the corners. I'm trying to
figure out a clever way to ensure that when I cut the second end it
winds up being parallel to the first cut end. Probably doesn't matter
that much, but I've found that proper cutting seems to really help in
controlling welding distortion, and I'd really like this frame to be
flat (i.e. planar).

GWE


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Grant Erwin wrote:

I'm trying to figure out a clever way to ensure that when I cut the second
end it winds up being parallel to the first cut end. Probably doesn't
matter that much

Contrary to the tips of others:
It really isn't that tragic with _round_ pipe. You always can rotate
them a bit when you lay them out on your welding table. Or flip tubes.
When I was working as a steel constructor, we never cared that much
about this with tubes. Just, after the first cut, pull them staight out
of the vice -without rotating- clamp and cut.
They weren't warped more than the rectangular sectioned ones. :-))


Nick
--
Motor Modelle // Engine Models
http://www.motor-manufaktur.de
DIY-DRO // Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige
http://www.yadro.de

"Grant Erwin" wrote: (clip) I'm trying to figure out a clever way to
ensure that when I cut the second end it winds up being parallel to the
first cut end. (clip)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
If your cutoff saw has a long enough bed to hold the pieces, or if you can
rig one then you could do it this way: make a 45 degree cut in a piece of
square stock. Use this as a length gauge/stop for the second cut on each
piece. Just press the 45 degree first cut against the gauge for rotational
alignment.

As an aside, Grant - If you weld yourself a triangle -a big one if you
need it- you will have a "Planar Jig" this can then be used to clamp
other (more than 3 joints) so that they lie on the same plane.
Just be sure your joints are fairly flush on the jig's corners.
As far as cutting a round tube on the same plane, I have also used
"gravity" to line up the pipe. Just clamp a heavy weight to the middle
of the pipe - (supported on the other end by something too) and then
once the pipe has stopped wobbling - clamp it down. Good for +/-
joints. For really accurate joins I use a v-block.

Tom

Use the seam as a reference (unless you're using seamless tubing) ... I
do this for cutting as well as bending and get pretty good results,
especially for weldments.

Grant Erwin wrote:

I now have a decent abrasive cutoff saw, cuts at 90 and 45 degrees. I
want to make a frame from 2" pipe, 45'ed at the corners. I'm trying to
figure out a clever way to ensure that when I cut the second end it
winds up being parallel to the first cut end. Probably doesn't matter
that much, but I've found that proper cutting seems to really help in
controlling welding distortion, and I'd really like this frame to be
flat (i.e. planar).

GWE

Just clamp a drilling vice to the end of the pipe and slide it along the
table.

John