I have a Japanese Kataba saw (the ones in the Axminster catalogue) with a
rip-cut "hassunme" profile. "Just the thing for effortlessly ripping long
boards" they say... well, they would, wouldn't they!

The problem is that I find it exceptionally difficult to use, far from
effortless, in fact so difficult that I assume that there must be something
drastically wrong with my technique. I'm trying to rip some 20mm(ish) thick
european oak, but it seems similarly difficult with pine and other woods
that I have tried.

With a traditional (to us) western pattern saw you'd work from the top,
sawing at an angle, and it cuts on the push stroke. So when ripping the
teeth essentially chisel through the fibres at and angle, and thinking about
it each fibre is supported by the one below it so it's a relatively easy,
clean cut.

However, with a japanese pullsaw it seems to me that working from above
means that the teeth are always digging directly into the end grain, and I
can't square this with an "easy sawing action".

Sawing from underneath (if you see what I mean) is easy, the saw glides
through the wood as I would expect, and I can easily see the cut line on the
surface. However this isn't a comfortable working position, not practical
for long boards and strikes me as not being the technique at all.

Saw from the top, but hold the saw such that the teeth form an oblique angle
with the board surface? Fine, works, but how do you follow the cutting line
(not that you have much chance with a ripsaw if it wanders off the line
anyway)?

Or perhaps it shoudl be held so that the cutting edge is perpendicular to
the board surface?

Anyone care to enlighten me on correct technique?


--
Richard Sampson

email me at
richard at olifant d-ot co do-t uk

In message , RichardS
writes


Anyone care to enlighten me on correct technique?

I have one you can have.

Thought I'd try one and I don't get it at all.

--
mark