I got a union to help connect up a whole house filter since the filter
has threaded inlets and it had some elbows nearby. I figured this
would make it possible to remove stuff later since I could unscrew
things without cutting all the pipe. The thing is, this stinking union
will not stop leaking at the compression spot. I've cranked it down
almost to the limits of what I'm capable of doing. Is this right? Is
it normal to crank the snot out of these things, or do I have a faulty
union or something?

--

My heating and AC boss used to dose unions with WD-40 or
equivilant. So the threads would slip instead of tighten and
jam up.

Plumber friend of mine used to dose the threads and mating
surface with Rectorseal #5 for sealing effect.

One of t hose two should do it.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Chuck" wrote in message
news:vz97m.187899$DP1.74526@attbi_s22...
I got a union to help connect up a whole house filter since
the filter
has threaded inlets and it had some elbows nearby. I
figured this
would make it possible to remove stuff later since I could
unscrew
things without cutting all the pipe. The thing is, this
stinking union
will not stop leaking at the compression spot. I've cranked
it down
almost to the limits of what I'm capable of doing. Is this
right? Is
it normal to crank the snot out of these things, or do I
have a faulty
union or something?

--

Chuck wrote:
I got a union to help connect up a whole house filter since the filter
has threaded inlets and it had some elbows nearby. I figured this
would make it possible to remove stuff later since I could unscrew
things without cutting all the pipe. The thing is, this stinking union
will not stop leaking at the compression spot. I've cranked it down
almost to the limits of what I'm capable of doing. Is this right? Is
it normal to crank the snot out of these things, or do I have a faulty
union or something?

If it's one of them CheapChinese fittings it's probably the fitting --
I've had nothing but trouble w/ 'em.

If the imperfections are small enough a layer of permatex or similar may
be enough; some of the ones I've had have large enough pitting or other
defects to be clearly visible--there's no hope w/ them.

--

The thing is, this stinking union will not stop leaking at the
compression spot. I've cranked it down almost to the limits of what I'm
capable of doing. Is this right? Is it normal to crank the snot out of
these things, or do I have a faulty union or something?

Metal or PVC ? Is there a slot machined in there for an "O" ring ?

dpb wrote:
Chuck wrote:
I got a union to help connect up a whole house filter since the
filter has threaded inlets and it had some elbows nearby. I
figured this would make it possible to remove stuff later since I
could unscrew things without cutting all the pipe. The thing is,
this stinking union will not stop leaking at the compression spot. I've
cranked it down almost to the limits of what I'm capable of
doing. Is this right? Is it normal to crank the snot out of these
things, or do I have a faulty union or something?

If it's one of them CheapChinese fittings it's probably the fitting --
I've had nothing but trouble w/ 'em.

If the imperfections are small enough a layer of permatex or similar
may be enough; some of the ones I've had have large enough pitting or
other defects to be clearly visible--there's no hope w/ them.

I have polished the mating surfaces with fine steel wool then wiped some
pipe dope over the area before tightinging them up. Since I started doing
this I have had no leakers.

Rudy wrote:


The thing is, this stinking union will not stop leaking at the
compression spot. I've cranked it down almost to the limits of
what I'm capable of doing. Is this right? Is it normal to crank
the snot out of these things, or do I have a faulty union or
something?

Metal or PVC ? Is there a slot machined in there for an "O" ring ?

Metal. Looks like brass with a copper pipe.

Interesting about the lubrication. I had pipe dope on it the first
time, from sweating the pipe, and I removed it the second try. I've
torqued the heck out of it now and it _might_ be sealed. I'll wait
overnight to know for sure. If it's still leaking I'll try some WD-40
and/or permatex. Thanks.

--

Most plumbers don't use pipe dope for sweat solder fittings.
They use flux.

I wouldn't use WD and permatex at the same time, they might
not be friends. A dose of Permatex #2 non hardening (the
black messy crap) may do the job. washes off with alcohol
"drygas" when you get it on you. DAMHIKT.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Chuck" wrote in message
news:tvb7m.188024$DP1.147019@attbi_s22...

Metal. Looks like brass with a copper pipe.

Interesting about the lubrication. I had pipe dope on it
the first
time, from sweating the pipe, and I removed it the second
try. I've
torqued the heck out of it now and it _might_ be sealed.
I'll wait
overnight to know for sure. If it's still leaking I'll try
some WD-40
and/or permatex. Thanks.

--

"dpb" wrote in message
...
Chuck wrote:
I got a union to help connect up a whole house filter since the filter
has threaded inlets and it had some elbows nearby. I figured this
would make it possible to remove stuff later since I could unscrew
things without cutting all the pipe. The thing is, this stinking union
will not stop leaking at the compression spot. I've cranked it down
almost to the limits of what I'm capable of doing. Is this right? Is
it normal to crank the snot out of these things, or do I have a faulty
union or something?

I went up to my cabin and turned on the water only to find bursts in two
places. Went to Home Depot, and bought something called Shark Bite, IIRC.
It worked. I had to put one compression 90 ball valve in as it was less
than half a Shark Bite 90 valve. We'll see. But the stuff was incredibly
easy to work with.

Steve

Chuck wrote:
Rudy wrote:

The thing is, this stinking union will not stop leaking at the
compression spot. I've cranked it down almost to the limits of
what I'm capable of doing. Is this right? Is it normal to crank
the snot out of these things, or do I have a faulty union or
something?
Metal or PVC ? Is there a slot machined in there for an "O" ring ?

Metal. Looks like brass with a copper pipe.

Interesting about the lubrication. I had pipe dope on it the first
time, from sweating the pipe, and I removed it the second try. I've
torqued the heck out of it now and it _might_ be sealed. I'll wait
overnight to know for sure. If it's still leaking I'll try some WD-40
and/or permatex. Thanks.


A normal union doesn't need permatex, wd40 or anything else. If the
mating faces are clean and you have good alignment and it leaks after
nominal tightening the union is defective.

On Jul 15, 6:48*am, George wrote:
Chuck wrote:
Rudy wrote:

The thing is, this stinking union will not stop leaking at the
compression spot. *I've cranked it down almost to the limits of
what I'm *capable of doing. *Is this right? *Is it normal to crank
the snot out of *these things, or do I have a faulty *union or
something?
Metal or PVC ? *Is there a slot machined in there for an "O" ring ?

Metal. *Looks like brass with a copper pipe. *

Interesting about the lubrication. *I had pipe dope on it the first
time, from sweating the pipe, and I removed it the second try. *I've
torqued the heck out of it now and it _might_ be sealed. *I'll wait
overnight to know for sure. *If it's still leaking I'll try some WD-40
and/or permatex. *Thanks.

A normal union doesn't need permatex, wd40 or anything else. If the
mating faces are clean and you have good alignment and it leaks after
nominal tightening the union is defective.

Maybe, but I've been fighting them tight way before the cheap imports
hit these shores., Once I saw the guy changing my deep well pump smear
a little pipe dope on before attempting to assemble the ones in the
well head, I felt silly. I now follow his lead, and have little
trouble with those.

On Jul 15, 10:06*am, Eric in North TX wrote:
On Jul 15, 6:48*am, George wrote:





Chuck wrote:
Rudy wrote:

The thing is, this stinking union will not stop leaking at the
compression spot. *I've cranked it down almost to the limits of
what I'm *capable of doing. *Is this right? *Is it normal to crank
the snot out of *these things, or do I have a faulty *union or
something?
Metal or PVC ? *Is there a slot machined in there for an "O" ring ?

Metal. *Looks like brass with a copper pipe. *

Interesting about the lubrication. *I had pipe dope on it the first
time, from sweating the pipe, and I removed it the second try. *I've
torqued the heck out of it now and it _might_ be sealed. *I'll wait
overnight to know for sure. *If it's still leaking I'll try some WD-40
and/or permatex. *Thanks.

A normal union doesn't need permatex, wd40 or anything else. If the
mating faces are clean and you have good alignment and it leaks after
nominal tightening the union is defective.

Maybe, but I've been fighting them tight way before the cheap imports
hit these shores., Once I saw the guy changing my deep well pump smear
a little pipe dope on before attempting to assemble the ones in the
well head, I felt silly. I now follow his lead, and have little
trouble with those.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sounds as though anything 'slippery' helps lubricate the threads so
that the union will put smooth and tight compressive force on the
metal to metal joint of the 'olive' and copper pipe etc.?
Not that we are stuffing up the joint with some sort of sealing
compound. Correct?
Thinking about one part of the Middle East where 'plumbers' and
repairers tended to put sealing tape on anything with a thread, even
if not required.
The threads, in some cases, were really clogged up with sealing tape
debris in some cases which made tightening a chore!

On Jul 16, 9:49*am, stan wrote:
On Jul 15, 10:06*am, Eric in North TX wrote:



On Jul 15, 6:48*am, George wrote:

Chuck wrote:
Rudy wrote:

The thing is, this stinking union will not stop leaking at the
compression spot. *I've cranked it down almost to the limits of
what I'm *capable of doing. *Is this right? *Is it normal to crank
the snot out of *these things, or do I have a faulty *union or
something?
Metal or PVC ? *Is there a slot machined in there for an "O" ring ?

Metal. *Looks like brass with a copper pipe. *

Interesting about the lubrication. *I had pipe dope on it the first
time, from sweating the pipe, and I removed it the second try. *I've
torqued the heck out of it now and it _might_ be sealed. *I'll wait
overnight to know for sure. *If it's still leaking I'll try some WD-40
and/or permatex. *Thanks.

A normal union doesn't need permatex, wd40 or anything else. If the
mating faces are clean and you have good alignment and it leaks after
nominal tightening the union is defective.

Maybe, but I've been fighting them tight way before the cheap imports
hit these shores., Once I saw the guy changing my deep well pump smear
a little pipe dope on before attempting to assemble the ones in the
well head, I felt silly. I now follow his lead, and have little
trouble with those.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Sounds as though anything 'slippery' helps lubricate the threads so
that the union will put smooth and tight compressive force on the
metal to metal joint of the 'olive' and copper pipe etc.?
Not that we are stuffing up the joint with some sort of sealing
compound. Correct?
Thinking about one part of the Middle East where 'plumbers' and
repairers tended to put sealing tape on anything with a thread, even
if not required.
The threads, in some cases, were really clogged up with sealing tape
debris in some cases which made tightening a chore!

Mostly, but the well guy put a smear on the mating surfaces too. There
is a little friction there as it mates, and that makes it go together
easily. I no longer get the 36" pipe wrench out when dealing with a
union, but I used to.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...

Plumber friend of mine used to dose the threads and mating
surface with Rectorseal #5 for sealing effect.


I had the same problem with a union on a steam heating system. After
posting here, someone suggested Rectorseal #5 and I bought it and used it.
That solved the problem. It did seem to help lubricate it a little as I
tightened it, and it definitely made the seal.