Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a
shattered mess! WTF? The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar. So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from the outside inward. It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother! About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned the water back on. (It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.). I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe! I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job! Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as they pass through the brick veneer. What I learned: 1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes. 2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if necessary. |
#2
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
"HeyBub" wrote in
m: In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a shattered mess! WTF? The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar. So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from the outside inward. It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother! About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned the water back on. (It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.). I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe! I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job! Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as they pass through the brick veneer. What I learned: 1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes. 2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if necessary. I believe mortar is very alkaline. Good way to eat through iron pipes, galvanized or not. What did you replace them with? Copper or PEX? -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#3
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
Any pipes going through cement shold be place in a sleeve. IE: a larger pipe
"HeyBub" wrote in message m... In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a shattered mess! WTF? The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar. So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from the outside inward. It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother! About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned the water back on. (It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.). I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe! I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job! Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as they pass through the brick veneer. What I learned: 1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes. 2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if necessary. |
#4
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
On Jul 4, 9:00*am, Han wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote innews:c4udnYTTRs5Y09LXnZ2dnUVZ_oednZ2d@earthlink. com: In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a shattered mess! WTF? The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar. So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from the outside inward. It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother! About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned the water back on. *(It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.). I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe! I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job! Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as they pass through the brick veneer. What I learned: 1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes. 2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if necessary. I believe mortar is very alkaline. *Good way to eat through iron pipes, galvanized or not. *What did you replace them with? *Copper or PEX? It also attacks copper. That's why they stopped using copper in radiant floors a long time ago. R |
#5
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
On Jul 4, 8:44*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a shattered mess! WTF? The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar. So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from the outside inward. It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother! About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned the water back on. *(It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.). I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe! I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job! Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as they pass through the brick veneer. What I learned: 1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes. 2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if necessary. The same happened at my in laws house about 15 years ago. My father in law was pretty lucky, he was able to get the damaged pipes out with a EZ OUT. He replaced them with brass. Jimmie |
#6
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
On Jul 4, 7:44*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a shattered mess! WTF? The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar. So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from the outside inward. It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother! About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned the water back on. *(It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.). I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe! I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job! Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as they pass through the brick veneer. What I learned: 1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes. 2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if necessary. Maybe bad galvanising or something else? Around here are 75-120+ year old homes, everyone has outdoor spigots mortared in that dont fall apart, mine are about 80 yrs. |
#7
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
Han wrote:
What I learned: 1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes. 2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if necessary. I believe mortar is very alkaline. Good way to eat through iron pipes, galvanized or not. What did you replace them with? Copper or PEX? Experience demonstrates you are undoubtedly correct. Some of us didn't get the word, though. I replaced the decomposed pipe with another galvanized pipe. The new pipe, however, is sheathed in 1/4" thick rubberized and nylon-reinforced plastic. As I put the bricks back, I plan to insulate even that from the surrounding bricks with foam. Maybe even Kevlar. As an aside, I found the HF Multifunction tool cuts through mortar quite easily - the blade's not long enough to reach all the way, but it provided a good start. I figure I'm good for another 40 years. Unfortunately I have three more faucets to check... Moan. |
#8
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
ransley wrote:
Maybe bad galvanising or something else? Around here are 75-120+ year old homes, everyone has outdoor spigots mortared in that dont fall apart, mine are about 80 yrs. Don't touch them! Use only one eye when inspecting from a distance. It's the mortar that's playing Little Dutch Boy and holding back the flood. |
#9
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
On Jul 4, 7:44*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a shattered mess! WTF? The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar. So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from the outside inward. It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother! About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned the water back on. *(It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.). I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe! I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job! Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as they pass through the brick veneer. What I learned: 1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes. 2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if necessary. How old is the house? I know of a 55 yr. old house with galvanized piping coming out of the brick with no signs of corrosion. Andy |
#10
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
WhiteTea wrote:
On Jul 4, 7:44 am, "HeyBub" wrote: In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a shattered mess! WTF? The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar. So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from the outside inward. It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother! About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned the water back on. (It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.). I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe! I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job! Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as they pass through the brick veneer. What I learned: 1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes. 2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if necessary. How old is the house? I know of a 55 yr. old house with galvanized piping coming out of the brick with no signs of corrosion. House was built in the late '60s. So I guess it's about 40 years old. Maybe they used rosin-core mortar at the house at which you can't see the corrosion. I just got back from buying a sack of mortar with which to replace the bricks. No warning on the bag about pipes, pets, or plants, so I guess I'm okay. Aside--- Both Harbor Freight and Home Depot are open today. As are the day laborers in the HD parking lot. I even had one youngster stop me as I was leaving HD to ask if I needed help putting the 60-pound bag of mortar in my truck. He was either desperate for a tip or I look more feeble than I really am. I WAS contemplating a lie-down but my pride's insulted. I'm gonna lay bricks -- even if it IS 104° outside! I'll show that pipsqueak! Soon as I figure out how to get the bag of mortar OUT of my truck... |
#11
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
WhiteTea wrote:
On Jul 4, 7:44 am, "HeyBub" wrote: In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a shattered mess! WTF? The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar. So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from the outside inward. It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother! About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned the water back on. (It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.). I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe! I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job! Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as they pass through the brick veneer. What I learned: 1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes. 2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if necessary. How old is the house? I know of a 55 yr. old house with galvanized piping coming out of the brick with no signs of corrosion. I just replaced the galvanized pipe coming into a 1948 house. It had significantly corroded where it went through the concrete, and was leaking just outside the house. I wrapped the new copper pipe with plastic plumbers tape before installing it, as I was told to do by the inspector. |
#12
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
HeyBub wrote:
Both Harbor Freight and Home Depot are open today. As are the day laborers in the HD parking lot. I even had one youngster stop me as I was leaving HD to ask if I needed help putting the 60-pound bag of mortar in my truck. He was either desperate for a tip or I look more feeble than I really am. I have noticed that the 60 pound bags of concrete mix are heavier than they used to be, so I blame the metric system. Jon |
#13
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
Jon Danniken wrote:
HeyBub wrote: Both Harbor Freight and Home Depot are open today. As are the day laborers in the HD parking lot. I even had one youngster stop me as I was leaving HD to ask if I needed help putting the 60-pound bag of mortar in my truck. He was either desperate for a tip or I look more feeble than I really am. I have noticed that the 60 pound bags of concrete mix are heavier than they used to be, so I blame the metric system. Quite interesting; on a little island on the righthand side of The Pond, after EU administrators said that they did not intend to disallow traditional units of measure, when going to the market we are now able to buy a lb. of mushrooms or whatever and that traders are proud to offer a bag of tomatoes (or other items) for sale. A victory, I think. I do know what you mean about weights getting heavier. A neighbour was getting rid of paving slabs to reconfigure their backyard. Our houses were built at the same time by the same builder. The slabs are in the same condition as ours and my wife wanted to extend the patio. Got our elder kid to help me lift some to the front garden which I freely admit challenged me. I asked the younger lad (23) to get them into the yard, he's keen on phyical fitness and part of his business. To date there's one that he has not managed to move. I'm guessing that I will have to shift that one!. |
#14
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
"Jon Danniken" wrote in
: HeyBub wrote: Both Harbor Freight and Home Depot are open today. As are the day laborers in the HD parking lot. I even had one youngster stop me as I was leaving HD to ask if I needed help putting the 60-pound bag of mortar in my truck. He was either desperate for a tip or I look more feeble than I really am. I have noticed that the 60 pound bags of concrete mix are heavier than they used to be, so I blame the metric system. Jon That's because an English pound is 453 grams, a metric pound 500. More than a 10% increase. In my case it was a decrease, going from Dutch to US. But my poundage increased more than that. (1 beer only?) -- Best regards Han email address is invalid |
#15
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
ransley wrote:
On Jul 4, 7:44 am, "HeyBub" wrote: In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a shattered mess! WTF? The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar. So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from the outside inward. It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother! About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned the water back on. (It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.). I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe! I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job! Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as they pass through the brick veneer. What I learned: 1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes. 2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if necessary. Maybe bad galvanising or something else? Around here are 75-120+ year old homes, everyone has outdoor spigots mortared in that dont fall apart, mine are about 80 yrs. 75-120 years ago, mortar was different. But I suspect there is some other uncontrolled variable at play here. Where I mostly grew up (Indiana), and where I have spent the last 29 years (SW MI), I have never seen this occur, and hose bibs, sillcocks, whatever the heck the proper name is, are routinely mudded in place by the bricklayer as he does those courses. Of course, most of them in my era were not galvanized pipe, or even copper. That actual bronze fitting is almost like a fire plug, and extends well into the wall. This is even more true now that everyone fits freeze-proof fittings, which are even longer. I found the OP's post a tad confusing- he had to open the wall the get to the elbow/tee and the feed pipe? Is the spigot high on the wall or something? Almost without exception, I have only seen them placed through the band joist, right above the sill plate, so you COULD get to them easily later. I admit (now that I am on wrong side of 50), that having it up high would be Real Nice sometimes, just like for outlets, but I hardly ever see them like that. I suppose best way to do that would be with an external riser, with a drain valve down low+ an internal cutoff valve in basement, so you could drain them for winter. (Water pipes in an outside wall were always to be avoided, they told me way back when...) I suppose that if you could spot your outside spigots so they backed up to dead spaces/utility closets, or someplace you could provide an access plate within the heated envelope, you could place them as high as you want. Thinking about it, I guess down south of the snow line or in slab country, not much of the above applies. Hell, in Louisiana, they oftem put the water heaters in a lean-to off the back porch. -- aem sends... |
#16
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
"aemeijers" wrote in message ... Thinking about it, I guess down south of the snow line or in slab country, not much of the above applies. Hell, in Louisiana, they oftem put the water heaters in a lean-to off the back porch. Yup, and right next to the washer and dryer. |
#17
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
aemeijers wrote:
75-120 years ago, mortar was different. But I suspect there is some other uncontrolled variable at play here. Where I mostly grew up (Indiana), and where I have spent the last 29 years (SW MI), I have never seen this occur, and hose bibs, sillcocks, whatever the heck the proper name is, are routinely mudded in place by the bricklayer as he does those courses. Of course, most of them in my era were not galvanized pipe, or even copper. That actual bronze fitting is almost like a fire plug, and extends well into the wall. This is even more true now that everyone fits freeze-proof fittings, which are even longer. I found the OP's post a tad confusing- he had to open the wall the get to the elbow/tee and the feed pipe? Is the spigot high on the wall or something? Almost without exception, I have only seen them placed through the band joist, right above the sill plate, so you COULD get to them easily later. I admit (now that I am on wrong side of 50), that having it up high would be Real Nice sometimes, just like for outlets, but I hardly ever see them like that. I suppose best way to do that would be with an external riser, with a drain valve down low+ an internal cutoff valve in basement, so you could drain them for winter. (Water pipes in an outside wall were always to be avoided, they told me way back when...) I suppose that if you could spot your outside spigots so they backed up to dead spaces/utility closets, or someplace you could provide an access plate within the heated envelope, you could place them as high as you want. Here's a picture of the bibs that were removed: http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/4837/hpim0158.jpg Here's a pic of the replacement installation http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8430/hpim0159.jpg And here's a picture of what can happen if your dog gets too fat http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/5...revengebf3.jpg |
#18
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
"Jon Danniken" wrote in message ... I have noticed that the 60 pound bags of concrete mix are heavier than they used to be, so I blame the metric system. It's the magic fatten ray. |
#19
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
Old age, cunning, and simple machines will win out. Every
time. -- Christopher A. Young Learn more about Jesus www.lds.org .. "Clot" wrote in message ... I do know what you mean about weights getting heavier. A neighbour was getting rid of paving slabs to reconfigure their backyard. Our houses were built at the same time by the same builder. The slabs are in the same condition as ours and my wife wanted to extend the patio. Got our elder kid to help me lift some to the front garden which I freely admit challenged me. I asked the younger lad (23) to get them into the yard, he's keen on phyical fitness and part of his business. To date there's one that he has not managed to move. I'm guessing that I will have to shift that one!. |
#20
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
HeyBub wrote:
aemeijers wrote: 75-120 years ago, mortar was different. But I suspect there is some other uncontrolled variable at play here. Where I mostly grew up (Indiana), and where I have spent the last 29 years (SW MI), I have never seen this occur, and hose bibs, sillcocks, whatever the heck the proper name is, are routinely mudded in place by the bricklayer as he does those courses. Of course, most of them in my era were not galvanized pipe, or even copper. That actual bronze fitting is almost like a fire plug, and extends well into the wall. This is even more true now that everyone fits freeze-proof fittings, which are even longer. I found the OP's post a tad confusing- he had to open the wall the get to the elbow/tee and the feed pipe? Is the spigot high on the wall or something? Almost without exception, I have only seen them placed through the band joist, right above the sill plate, so you COULD get to them easily later. I admit (now that I am on wrong side of 50), that having it up high would be Real Nice sometimes, just like for outlets, but I hardly ever see them like that. I suppose best way to do that would be with an external riser, with a drain valve down low+ an internal cutoff valve in basement, so you could drain them for winter. (Water pipes in an outside wall were always to be avoided, they told me way back when...) I suppose that if you could spot your outside spigots so they backed up to dead spaces/utility closets, or someplace you could provide an access plate within the heated envelope, you could place them as high as you want. Here's a picture of the bibs that were removed: http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/4837/hpim0158.jpg Here's a pic of the replacement installation http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8430/hpim0159.jpg And here's a picture of what can happen if your dog gets too fat http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/5...revengebf3.jpg Loved the fat dog picture. Not sure if I would have used those parts for replacement, though. Are they even rated for outside use? I see no flange on there at all. Changing out my outside spigots has been on my 'to do' list since I moved in 4 years ago- front one has leaky packing, and the back one is just a pipe run through the wall with a quarter-turn ball valve stuck on the end. My plumbing skills suck, so I was waiting till I felt rich enough to pay for a real plumber. Along with upgrading to freeze-proof spigots (which thankfully have good access from below), I have several other reasonably ****ant plumbing upgrades that I need. (No SWMBO in the house makes it way too easy to procrastinate these things....) -- aem sends... |
#21
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
aemeijers wrote:
Here's a picture of the bibs that were removed: http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/4837/hpim0158.jpg Here's a pic of the replacement installation http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8430/hpim0159.jpg And here's a picture of what can happen if your dog gets too fat http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/5...revengebf3.jpg Loved the fat dog picture. Not sure if I would have used those parts for replacement, though. Are they even rated for outside use? Good question. The spigot is designed for use with a garden hose, so, unless there are folks with an unknown way of cleaning house, I presumed they were for outside use. I see no flange on there at all. Oops! Is there something about a flange that's important, legal, useful, or deserving of artistic merit? Changing out my outside spigots has been on my 'to do' list since I moved in 4 years ago- front one has leaky packing, and the back one is just a pipe run through the wall with a quarter-turn ball valve stuck on the end. The latter is what I now have. Is there some deficiency with that arrangement? My plumbing skills suck, so I was waiting till I felt rich enough to pay for a real plumber. Along with upgrading to freeze-proof spigots (which thankfully have good access from below), I have several other reasonably ****ant plumbing upgrades that I need. (No SWMBO in the house makes it way too easy to procrastinate these things....) We don't have freezes in my neighborhood (it was 104° yesterday), so I don't have the same concerns as you. You might start with a simple plumbing project (like changing the spigots on the outside faucets - yeah, right) and develop your skills through trial and error. And asking (or bitching about the result) here. |
#22
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
HeyBub wrote:
aemeijers wrote: Here's a picture of the bibs that were removed: http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/4837/hpim0158.jpg Here's a pic of the replacement installation http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8430/hpim0159.jpg And here's a picture of what can happen if your dog gets too fat http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/5...revengebf3.jpg Loved the fat dog picture. Not sure if I would have used those parts for replacement, though. Are they even rated for outside use? Good question. The spigot is designed for use with a garden hose, so, unless there are folks with an unknown way of cleaning house, I presumed they were for outside use. 'Garden Hose' style faucets are used inside all the time, especially in industrial/shop applications. The old concrete basement slop sinks usually had a threaded end, as do the faucets in the janitor closets in most large buildings such as schools. Modern washer-dryer hookups use basically the same fitting, as do most water softeners. The valves on my softener look almost exactly like what you just installed. The flange is to reduce movement of the pipe where it goes through the wall, hide an oversize hole, and make it easier to seal around it. Yeah, I could probably do basic plumbing if I had to. I have the knowledge in my head- but the fingers, not so smart any more. And the eyes, not so sharp for close work any more. Having more cashflow than time or enthusiasm these days, it is way too easy to rationalize hiring a pro, especially for categories of work I screwed up the last time I tried them. -- aem sends... |
#23
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
On Sat, 4 Jul 2009 21:15:22 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote: Here's a pic of the replacement installation http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8430/hpim0159.jpg I replaced a hose bib with the same 1/4 turn (valve) you have. Love it for easy off and on. You will enjoy it!! |
#24
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
Oren wrote:
On Sat, 4 Jul 2009 21:15:22 -0500, "HeyBub" wrote: Here's a pic of the replacement installation http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8430/hpim0159.jpg I replaced a hose bib with the same 1/4 turn (valve) you have. Love it for easy off and on. You will enjoy it!! Thanks. I'm looking forward to it. I still have two more to do (out of five). One of the outlets has two of these valves: one for the hose, the other for the pet's never-empty water dish. Poor outside kitties, in this ghastly heat wave, were sometimes reduced to standing under a neighbor's condensate overflow drain. Now that an eternal supply of fresh water is available for the cats, maybe I should go thank my neighbor and tell her that her charity is no longer necessary and she can go ahead and get her A/C drain fixed. |
#25
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
"HeyBub" wrote in
m: In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a shattered mess! WTF? The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar. So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from the outside inward. It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother! About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned the water back on. (It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.). I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe! I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job! Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as they pass through the brick veneer. What I learned: 1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes. 2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if necessary. With regard to #2, it's on my calendar. |
#26
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Mortar is the natural enemy of pipes
|
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|