In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a
shattered mess! WTF?

The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and
the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar.

So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output
pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where
it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar,
the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from
the outside inward.

It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother!

About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned
the water back on. (It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.).

I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe!

I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started
spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This
pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust.
Another 200-curseword job!

Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as
they pass through the brick veneer.

What I learned:
1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes.
2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if
necessary.

"HeyBub" wrote in
m:

In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet
into a shattered mess! WTF?

The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick
wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar.

So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the
output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape
except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was
covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The
corrosion was taking place from the outside inward.

It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother!

About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and
turned the water back on. (It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside
a wall.).

I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access
pipe!

I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it
started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous
pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a
thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job!

Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel
as they pass through the brick veneer.

What I learned:
1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes.
2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and
replaced if necessary.

I believe mortar is very alkaline. Good way to eat through iron pipes,
galvanized or not. What did you replace them with? Copper or PEX?

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

Any pipes going through cement shold be place in a sleeve. IE: a larger pipe
"HeyBub" wrote in message
m...
In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into
a shattered mess! WTF?

The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall
and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar.

So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output
pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except
where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with
mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking
place from the outside inward.

It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother!

About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned
the water back on. (It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.).

I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe!

I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started
spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This
pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of
rust. Another 200-curseword job!

Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as
they pass through the brick veneer.

What I learned:
1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes.
2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced
if necessary.

On Jul 4, 9:00*am, Han wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote innews:c4udnYTTRs5Y09LXnZ2dnUVZ_oednZ2d@earthlink. com:



In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet
into a shattered mess! WTF?

The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick
wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar.

So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the
output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape
except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was
covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The
corrosion was taking place from the outside inward.

It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother!

About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and
turned the water back on. *(It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside
a wall.).

I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access
pipe!

I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it
started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous
pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a
thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job!

Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel
as they pass through the brick veneer.

What I learned:
1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes.
2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and
replaced if necessary.

I believe mortar is very alkaline. *Good way to eat through iron pipes,
galvanized or not. *What did you replace them with? *Copper or PEX?

It also attacks copper. That's why they stopped using copper in
radiant floors a long time ago.

R

On Jul 4, 8:44*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a
shattered mess! WTF?

The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and
the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar.

So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output
pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where
it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar,
the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from
the outside inward.

It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother!

About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned
the water back on. *(It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.).

I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe!

I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started
spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This
pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust.
Another 200-curseword job!

Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as
they pass through the brick veneer.

What I learned:
1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes.
2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if
necessary.

The same happened at my in laws house about 15 years ago. My father in
law was pretty lucky, he was able to get the damaged pipes out with a
EZ OUT. He replaced them with brass.

Jimmie

On Jul 4, 7:44*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a
shattered mess! WTF?

The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and
the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar.

So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output
pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where
it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar,
the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from
the outside inward.

It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother!

About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned
the water back on. *(It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.).

I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe!

I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started
spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This
pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust.
Another 200-curseword job!

Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as
they pass through the brick veneer.

What I learned:
1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes.
2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if
necessary.

Maybe bad galvanising or something else? Around here are 75-120+ year
old homes, everyone has outdoor spigots mortared in that dont fall
apart, mine are about 80 yrs.

Han wrote:

What I learned:
1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes.
2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and
replaced if necessary.

I believe mortar is very alkaline. Good way to eat through iron
pipes, galvanized or not. What did you replace them with? Copper or
PEX?

Experience demonstrates you are undoubtedly correct. Some of us didn't get
the word, though.

I replaced the decomposed pipe with another galvanized pipe. The new pipe,
however, is sheathed in 1/4" thick rubberized and nylon-reinforced plastic.
As I put the bricks back, I plan to insulate even that from the surrounding
bricks with foam.

Maybe even Kevlar.

As an aside, I found the HF Multifunction tool cuts through mortar quite
easily - the blade's not long enough to reach all the way, but it provided a
good start.

I figure I'm good for another 40 years. Unfortunately I have three more
faucets to check...

Moan.

ransley wrote:

Maybe bad galvanising or something else? Around here are 75-120+ year
old homes, everyone has outdoor spigots mortared in that dont fall
apart, mine are about 80 yrs.

Don't touch them! Use only one eye when inspecting from a distance.

It's the mortar that's playing Little Dutch Boy and holding back the flood.

On Jul 4, 7:44*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a
shattered mess! WTF?

The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and
the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar.

So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output
pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where
it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar,
the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from
the outside inward.

It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother!

About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned
the water back on. *(It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.).

I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe!

I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started
spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This
pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust.
Another 200-curseword job!

Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as
they pass through the brick veneer.

What I learned:
1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes.
2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if
necessary.

How old is the house?

I know of a 55 yr. old house with galvanized piping coming out of the
brick with no signs of corrosion.

Andy

WhiteTea wrote:
On Jul 4, 7:44 am, "HeyBub" wrote:
In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the
faucet into a shattered mess! WTF?

The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick
wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar.

So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the
output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent
shape except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area
that was covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape.
The corrosion was taking place from the outside inward.

It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother!

About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and
turned the water back on. (It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench
inside a wall.).

I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access
pipe!

I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it
started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the
previous pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was
nothing but a thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job!

Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic
tunnel as they pass through the brick veneer.

What I learned:
1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes.
2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and
replaced if necessary.

How old is the house?

I know of a 55 yr. old house with galvanized piping coming out of the
brick with no signs of corrosion.


House was built in the late '60s. So I guess it's about 40 years old.

Maybe they used rosin-core mortar at the house at which you can't see the
corrosion.

I just got back from buying a sack of mortar with which to replace the
bricks. No warning on the bag about pipes, pets, or plants, so I guess I'm
okay.

Aside---
Both Harbor Freight and Home Depot are open today. As are the day laborers
in the HD parking lot. I even had one youngster stop me as I was leaving HD
to ask if I needed help putting the 60-pound bag of mortar in my truck. He
was either desperate for a tip or I look more feeble than I really am.

I WAS contemplating a lie-down but my pride's insulted. I'm gonna lay
bricks -- even if it IS 104° outside! I'll show that pipsqueak!

Soon as I figure out how to get the bag of mortar OUT of my truck...

WhiteTea wrote:
On Jul 4, 7:44 am, "HeyBub" wrote:
In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the
faucet into a shattered mess! WTF?

The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick
wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar.

So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the
output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent
shape except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area
that was covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape.
The corrosion was taking place from the outside inward.

It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother!

About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and
turned the water back on. (It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench
inside a wall.).

I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access
pipe!

I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it
started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the
previous pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was
nothing but a thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job!

Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic
tunnel as they pass through the brick veneer.

What I learned:
1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes.
2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and
replaced if necessary.

How old is the house?

I know of a 55 yr. old house with galvanized piping coming out of the
brick with no signs of corrosion.

I just replaced the galvanized pipe coming into a 1948 house. It had
significantly corroded where it went through the concrete, and was leaking just
outside the house. I wrapped the new copper pipe with plastic plumbers tape
before installing it, as I was told to do by the inspector.

HeyBub wrote:

Both Harbor Freight and Home Depot are open today. As are the day
laborers in the HD parking lot. I even had one youngster stop me as I
was leaving HD to ask if I needed help putting the 60-pound bag of
mortar in my truck. He was either desperate for a tip or I look more
feeble than I really am.

I have noticed that the 60 pound bags of concrete mix are heavier than they
used to be, so I blame the metric system.

Jon

Jon Danniken wrote:
HeyBub wrote:

Both Harbor Freight and Home Depot are open today. As are the day
laborers in the HD parking lot. I even had one youngster stop me as I
was leaving HD to ask if I needed help putting the 60-pound bag of
mortar in my truck. He was either desperate for a tip or I look more
feeble than I really am.

I have noticed that the 60 pound bags of concrete mix are heavier
than they used to be, so I blame the metric system.


Quite interesting; on a little island on the righthand side of The Pond,
after EU administrators said that they did not intend to disallow
traditional units of measure, when going to the market we are now able to
buy a lb. of mushrooms or whatever and that traders are proud to offer a bag
of tomatoes (or other items) for sale. A victory, I think.

I do know what you mean about weights getting heavier. A neighbour was
getting rid of paving slabs to reconfigure their backyard. Our houses were
built at the same time by the same builder. The slabs are in the same
condition as ours and my wife wanted to extend the patio. Got our elder kid
to help me lift some to the front garden which I freely admit challenged me.
I asked the younger lad (23) to get them into the yard, he's keen on phyical
fitness and part of his business. To date there's one that he has not
managed to move.

I'm guessing that I will have to shift that one!.

"Jon Danniken" wrote in
:

HeyBub wrote:

Both Harbor Freight and Home Depot are open today. As are the day
laborers in the HD parking lot. I even had one youngster stop me as I
was leaving HD to ask if I needed help putting the 60-pound bag of
mortar in my truck. He was either desperate for a tip or I look more
feeble than I really am.

I have noticed that the 60 pound bags of concrete mix are heavier than
they used to be, so I blame the metric system.

Jon

That's because an English pound is 453 grams, a metric pound 500. More
than a 10% increase. In my case it was a decrease, going from Dutch to
US. But my poundage increased more than that. (1 beer only?)

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

ransley wrote:
On Jul 4, 7:44 am, "HeyBub" wrote:
In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet into a
shattered mess! WTF?

The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick wall and
the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar.

So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the output
pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape except where
it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was covered with mortar,
the pipe's interior was in good shape. The corrosion was taking place from
the outside inward.

It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother!

About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and turned
the water back on. (It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside a wall.).

I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access pipe!

I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it started
spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous pipe. This
pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a thin layer of rust.
Another 200-curseword job!

Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel as
they pass through the brick veneer.

What I learned:
1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes.
2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and replaced if
necessary.

Maybe bad galvanising or something else? Around here are 75-120+ year
old homes, everyone has outdoor spigots mortared in that dont fall
apart, mine are about 80 yrs.

75-120 years ago, mortar was different. But I suspect there is some
other uncontrolled variable at play here. Where I mostly grew up
(Indiana), and where I have spent the last 29 years (SW MI), I have
never seen this occur, and hose bibs, sillcocks, whatever the heck the
proper name is, are routinely mudded in place by the bricklayer as he
does those courses. Of course, most of them in my era were not
galvanized pipe, or even copper. That actual bronze fitting is almost
like a fire plug, and extends well into the wall. This is even more true
now that everyone fits freeze-proof fittings, which are even longer.

I found the OP's post a tad confusing- he had to open the wall the get
to the elbow/tee and the feed pipe? Is the spigot high on the wall or
something? Almost without exception, I have only seen them placed
through the band joist, right above the sill plate, so you COULD get to
them easily later. I admit (now that I am on wrong side of 50), that
having it up high would be Real Nice sometimes, just like for outlets,
but I hardly ever see them like that. I suppose best way to do that
would be with an external riser, with a drain valve down low+ an
internal cutoff valve in basement, so you could drain them for winter.
(Water pipes in an outside wall were always to be avoided, they told me
way back when...) I suppose that if you could spot your outside spigots
so they backed up to dead spaces/utility closets, or someplace you could
provide an access plate within the heated envelope, you could place them
as high as you want.

Thinking about it, I guess down south of the snow line or in slab
country, not much of the above applies. Hell, in Louisiana, they oftem
put the water heaters in a lean-to off the back porch.

--
aem sends...

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...

Thinking about it, I guess down south of the snow line or in slab country,
not much of the above applies. Hell, in Louisiana, they oftem put the
water heaters in a lean-to off the back porch.

Yup, and right next to the washer and dryer.

aemeijers wrote:

75-120 years ago, mortar was different. But I suspect there is some
other uncontrolled variable at play here. Where I mostly grew up
(Indiana), and where I have spent the last 29 years (SW MI), I have
never seen this occur, and hose bibs, sillcocks, whatever the heck the
proper name is, are routinely mudded in place by the bricklayer as he
does those courses. Of course, most of them in my era were not
galvanized pipe, or even copper. That actual bronze fitting is almost
like a fire plug, and extends well into the wall. This is even more
true now that everyone fits freeze-proof fittings, which are even
longer.
I found the OP's post a tad confusing- he had to open the wall the get
to the elbow/tee and the feed pipe? Is the spigot high on the wall or
something? Almost without exception, I have only seen them placed
through the band joist, right above the sill plate, so you COULD get
to them easily later. I admit (now that I am on wrong side of 50),
that having it up high would be Real Nice sometimes, just like for
outlets, but I hardly ever see them like that. I suppose best way to
do that would be with an external riser, with a drain valve down low+
an internal cutoff valve in basement, so you could drain them for
winter. (Water pipes in an outside wall were always to be avoided,
they told me way back when...) I suppose that if you could spot your
outside spigots so they backed up to dead spaces/utility closets, or
someplace you could provide an access plate within the heated
envelope, you could place them as high as you want.

Here's a picture of the bibs that were removed:
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/4837/hpim0158.jpg

Here's a pic of the replacement installation
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8430/hpim0159.jpg

And here's a picture of what can happen if your dog gets too fat
http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/5...revengebf3.jpg

"Jon Danniken" wrote in message
...

I have noticed that the 60 pound bags of concrete mix are heavier than
they used to be, so I blame the metric system.

It's the magic fatten ray.

Old age, cunning, and simple machines will win out. Every
time.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Clot" wrote in message
...

I do know what you mean about weights getting heavier. A
neighbour was
getting rid of paving slabs to reconfigure their backyard.
Our houses were
built at the same time by the same builder. The slabs are in
the same
condition as ours and my wife wanted to extend the patio.
Got our elder kid
to help me lift some to the front garden which I freely
admit challenged me.
I asked the younger lad (23) to get them into the yard, he's
keen on phyical
fitness and part of his business. To date there's one that
he has not
managed to move.

I'm guessing that I will have to shift that one!.

HeyBub wrote:
aemeijers wrote:
75-120 years ago, mortar was different. But I suspect there is some
other uncontrolled variable at play here. Where I mostly grew up
(Indiana), and where I have spent the last 29 years (SW MI), I have
never seen this occur, and hose bibs, sillcocks, whatever the heck the
proper name is, are routinely mudded in place by the bricklayer as he
does those courses. Of course, most of them in my era were not
galvanized pipe, or even copper. That actual bronze fitting is almost
like a fire plug, and extends well into the wall. This is even more
true now that everyone fits freeze-proof fittings, which are even
longer.
I found the OP's post a tad confusing- he had to open the wall the get
to the elbow/tee and the feed pipe? Is the spigot high on the wall or
something? Almost without exception, I have only seen them placed
through the band joist, right above the sill plate, so you COULD get
to them easily later. I admit (now that I am on wrong side of 50),
that having it up high would be Real Nice sometimes, just like for
outlets, but I hardly ever see them like that. I suppose best way to
do that would be with an external riser, with a drain valve down low+
an internal cutoff valve in basement, so you could drain them for
winter. (Water pipes in an outside wall were always to be avoided,
they told me way back when...) I suppose that if you could spot your
outside spigots so they backed up to dead spaces/utility closets, or
someplace you could provide an access plate within the heated
envelope, you could place them as high as you want.

Here's a picture of the bibs that were removed:
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/4837/hpim0158.jpg

Here's a pic of the replacement installation
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8430/hpim0159.jpg

And here's a picture of what can happen if your dog gets too fat
http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/5...revengebf3.jpg


Loved the fat dog picture. Not sure if I would have used those parts for
replacement, though. Are they even rated for outside use? I see no
flange on there at all. Changing out my outside spigots has been on my
'to do' list since I moved in 4 years ago- front one has leaky packing,
and the back one is just a pipe run through the wall with a quarter-turn
ball valve stuck on the end. My plumbing skills suck, so I was waiting
till I felt rich enough to pay for a real plumber. Along with upgrading
to freeze-proof spigots (which thankfully have good access from below),
I have several other reasonably ****ant plumbing upgrades that I need.
(No SWMBO in the house makes it way too easy to procrastinate these
things....)

--
aem sends...

aemeijers wrote:

Here's a picture of the bibs that were removed:
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/4837/hpim0158.jpg

Here's a pic of the replacement installation
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8430/hpim0159.jpg

And here's a picture of what can happen if your dog gets too fat
http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/5...revengebf3.jpg


Loved the fat dog picture. Not sure if I would have used those parts
for replacement, though. Are they even rated for outside use?

Good question. The spigot is designed for use with a garden hose, so, unless
there are folks with an unknown way of cleaning house, I presumed they were
for outside use.


I see no
flange on there at all.

Oops! Is there something about a flange that's important, legal, useful, or
deserving of artistic merit?

Changing out my outside spigots has been on my
'to do' list since I moved in 4 years ago- front one has leaky
packing, and the back one is just a pipe run through the wall with a
quarter-turn ball valve stuck on the end.

The latter is what I now have. Is there some deficiency with that
arrangement?

My plumbing skills suck, so
I was waiting till I felt rich enough to pay for a real plumber.
Along with upgrading to freeze-proof spigots (which thankfully have
good access from below), I have several other reasonably ****ant
plumbing upgrades that I need. (No SWMBO in the house makes it way
too easy to procrastinate these things....)

We don't have freezes in my neighborhood (it was 104° yesterday), so I don't
have the same concerns as you. You might start with a simple plumbing
project (like changing the spigots on the outside faucets - yeah, right) and
develop your skills through trial and error. And asking (or bitching about
the result) here.

HeyBub wrote:
aemeijers wrote:
Here's a picture of the bibs that were removed:
http://img375.imageshack.us/img375/4837/hpim0158.jpg

Here's a pic of the replacement installation
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8430/hpim0159.jpg

And here's a picture of what can happen if your dog gets too fat
http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/5...revengebf3.jpg


Loved the fat dog picture. Not sure if I would have used those parts
for replacement, though. Are they even rated for outside use?

Good question. The spigot is designed for use with a garden hose, so, unless
there are folks with an unknown way of cleaning house, I presumed they were
for outside use.



'Garden Hose' style faucets are used inside all the time, especially in
industrial/shop applications. The old concrete basement slop sinks
usually had a threaded end, as do the faucets in the janitor closets in
most large buildings such as schools. Modern washer-dryer hookups use
basically the same fitting, as do most water softeners. The valves on
my softener look almost exactly like what you just installed.

The flange is to reduce movement of the pipe where it goes through the
wall, hide an oversize hole, and make it easier to seal around it.

Yeah, I could probably do basic plumbing if I had to. I have the
knowledge in my head- but the fingers, not so smart any more. And the
eyes, not so sharp for close work any more. Having more cashflow than
time or enthusiasm these days, it is way too easy to rationalize hiring
a pro, especially for categories of work I screwed up the last time I
tried them.

--
aem sends...

On Sat, 4 Jul 2009 21:15:22 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Here's a pic of the replacement installation
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8430/hpim0159.jpg

I replaced a hose bib with the same 1/4 turn (valve) you have. Love it
for easy off and on. You will enjoy it!!

Oren wrote:
On Sat, 4 Jul 2009 21:15:22 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Here's a pic of the replacement installation
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/8430/hpim0159.jpg

I replaced a hose bib with the same 1/4 turn (valve) you have. Love it
for easy off and on. You will enjoy it!!

Thanks. I'm looking forward to it. I still have two more to do (out of
five).

One of the outlets has two of these valves: one for the hose, the other for
the pet's never-empty water dish. Poor outside kitties, in this ghastly heat
wave, were sometimes reduced to standing under a neighbor's condensate
overflow drain.

Now that an eternal supply of fresh water is available for the cats, maybe I
should go thank my neighbor and tell her that her charity is no longer
necessary and she can go ahead and get her A/C drain fixed.

"HeyBub" wrote in
m:

In upgrading an outside faucet, I twisted the pipe holding the faucet
into a shattered mess! WTF?

The 1/2" galvanized pipe exits the plumbing supply through a brick
wall and the pipe exit was packed in with brick mortar.

So I chiseled out about six bricks to get to the junction of the
output pipe. Damn! The 10" galvanized iron pipe was in excellent shape
except where it passed through the mortar. Even in the area that was
covered with mortar, the pipe's interior was in good shape. The
corrosion was taking place from the outside inward.

It seems as if the mortar was eating the pipe. Bother!

About 200 cursewords later, I had the 10" access pipe replaced and
turned the water back on. (It ain't easy getting a pipe wrench inside
a wall.).

I noticed a teeny bit of moisture at another, nearby, faucet access
pipe!

I carefully chiseled out the mortar surrounding THIS pipe and it
started spewing like a beer can in the sun; same thing as the previous
pipe. This pipe, as it passed through the mortar, was nothing but a
thin layer of rust. Another 200-curseword job!

Anyway, the new pipes are now covered with a 1/4"-thick plastic tunnel
as they pass through the brick veneer.

What I learned:
1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes.
2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and
replaced if necessary.




With regard to #2, it's on my calendar.

wrote:


What I learned:
1. Mortar attacks galvanized pipes.
2. Pipes imbedded in mortar should be checked every 30 years and
replaced if necessary.



Our bodies should be replaced every 30 years too. That would save
lots of pain and suffering......

There are steps you can take, like being more active with the ladies. I've
always believed the male sex organ is like beaver teeth - you've got to keep
it worn down or it'll kill you.