I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last for
about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec
and new waterline tile etc. The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has not
been replastered for over 30 years. The existing plaster is chipped in some
spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. After pressure washing
it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that was
loose has already worn off over the years. It had a coat of paint in the
1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn off.
I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can
remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion problem.

I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something like
synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until re-plastering
down the road. That might not last for 5 years. So I'm leaning toward the
Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. I'd use Gunzite primer and then
Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years.

Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a
replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint?
Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that
instead of plaster? I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it
does to plaster. I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who has
seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy.

In article ,
"scorpionleather" wrote:

I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last for
about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec
and new waterline tile etc. The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has not
been replastered for over 30 years. The existing plaster is chipped in some
spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. After pressure washing
it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that was
loose has already worn off over the years. It had a coat of paint in the
1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn off.
I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can
remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion problem.

I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something like
synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until re-plastering
down the road. That might not last for 5 years. So I'm leaning toward the
Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. I'd use Gunzite primer and then
Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years.

Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a
replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint?
Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that
instead of plaster? I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it
does to plaster. I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who has
seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy.

Why not follow Richard Kinch's guide:

"How I Re-Plastered and Re-Modeled My Own Swimming Pool For only $502"

(Of course, his pool was only 27,000 gallons.)

Here's the link:

http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm

On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 12:15:22 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

Why not follow Richard Kinch's guide:

"How I Re-Plastered and Re-Modeled My Own Swimming Pool For only $502"

(Of course, his pool was only 27,000 gallons.)

Here's the link:

http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm

Richard also has an outstanding page on garage door repair.

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"scorpionleather" wrote:

I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last
for
about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec
and new waterline tile etc. The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has
not
been replastered for over 30 years. The existing plaster is chipped in
some
spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. After pressure
washing
it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that
was
loose has already worn off over the years. It had a coat of paint in the
1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn
off.
I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can
remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion
problem.

I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something
like
synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until
re-plastering
down the road. That might not last for 5 years. So I'm leaning toward
the
Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. I'd use Gunzite primer and then
Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years.

Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a
replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint?
Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that
instead of plaster? I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it
does to plaster. I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who
has
seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy.

Why not follow Richard Kinch's guide:

"How I Re-Plastered and Re-Modeled My Own Swimming Pool For only $502"

(Of course, his pool was only 27,000 gallons.)

Here's the link:

http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm

Thanks for the link. I've got a pool that about 30 y/o and starting to show
it's age. I was considering painting but I'll probably replaster. Mines only
10.5K gal

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
Why not follow Richard Kinch's guide:

"How I Re-Plastered and Re-Modeled My Own Swimming Pool For only $502"

(Of course, his pool was only 27,000 gallons.)

Here's the link:

http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm

Excellent guide, thanks. I wonder how many days I would spend inside the
pool if I tried this. Reading the article, it sounds do-able. Then I think
about why it would cost $7,000 to hire a team to do it. Normally if a job
costs $7,000 it is beyond what I can do on my own. I paid to have two giant
trees removed for only $1,000 and I could never imagine climbing up like
they did, and lifting those big pieces of tree trunk on my own. But I do
most of my own electrical and plumbing, and I've done floors before but
whenever I do hard floors I am thinking "what did I get myself into, it's
harder than I thought." So re-plastering on my own is very tempting, I am
just afraid I might get myself into something beyond the labor I can put
into it (trying to get it right for weeks?) hmmm...

Any thoughts on this post I found on the web? Is this guy making it sound
too hard or does Richard make it sound too easy for DIY?

old maint man wrote:

This is not a do it yourself job. If you are determined to do it I can only
suggest you go to a job and observe how they do it. I have had pools
re-plastered and it is not a patch type job. You could Fiberglas the pool to
make the repairs and that would work. It is cheaper than re-plastering. When
the re-plaster a pool all the plaster must be chipped off or it wont work.
This is very time consuming and requires a lot of labor. You would need an
air compressor and chipping guns to achieve this. Depending on the size it
could take two or more days. All of this plaster must be removed. When you
start plastering the pool it requires about eight or more people because
when you start you can not stop until it is complete. It is quite a process.
There would be people applying the plaster as others would be delivering
more plaster as the job went on. The people on the bottom wear cleats with
pins on the bottom to walk around on the plaster and not leave foot prints.
As they finish up they will be wearing large pieces of foam as they do the
final finish. I don't think there is any way to learn this without doing it.
As I said it is not a do it yourself job.

Master Tang wrote:
"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"scorpionleather" wrote:

I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last
for
about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec
and new waterline tile etc. The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has
not
been replastered for over 30 years. The existing plaster is chipped in
some
spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. After pressure
washing
it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that
was
loose has already worn off over the years. It had a coat of paint in the
1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn
off.
I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can
remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion
problem.

I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something
like
synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until
re-plastering
down the road. That might not last for 5 years. So I'm leaning toward
the
Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. I'd use Gunzite primer and then
Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years.

Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a
replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint?
Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that
instead of plaster? I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it
does to plaster. I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who
has
seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy.
Why not follow Richard Kinch's guide:

"How I Re-Plastered and Re-Modeled My Own Swimming Pool For only $502"

(Of course, his pool was only 27,000 gallons.)

Here's the link:

http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm

Thanks for the link. I've got a pool that about 30 y/o and starting to show
it's age. I was considering painting but I'll probably replaster. Mines only
10.5K gal



10.5K gal, I just got through pumping more than that
out of a nice old lady's basement. *Snicker*

TDD

On Jun 17, 1:54*pm, "scorpionleather" wrote:
I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last for
about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec
and new waterline tile etc. *The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has not
been replastered for over 30 years. *The existing plaster is chipped in some
spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. *After pressure washing
it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that was
loose has already worn off over the years. *It had a coat of paint in the
1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn off.
I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can
remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion problem..

I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something like
synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until re-plastering
down the road. *That might not last for 5 years. *So I'm leaning toward the
Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. *I'd use Gunzite primer and then
Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years.

Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a
replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint?
Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that
instead of plaster? *I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it
does to plaster. *I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who has
seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy.

If you paint now, I dont think a concrete base coating can go over
paint in the future

In article ,
"scorpionleather" wrote:

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
Why not follow Richard Kinch's guide:

"How I Re-Plastered and Re-Modeled My Own Swimming Pool For only $502"

(Of course, his pool was only 27,000 gallons.)

Here's the link:

http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm

Excellent guide, thanks. I wonder how many days I would spend inside the
pool if I tried this. Reading the article, it sounds do-able. Then I think
about why it would cost $7,000 to hire a team to do it. Normally if a job
costs $7,000 it is beyond what I can do on my own. I paid to have two giant
trees removed for only $1,000 and I could never imagine climbing up like
they did, and lifting those big pieces of tree trunk on my own. But I do
most of my own electrical and plumbing, and I've done floors before but
whenever I do hard floors I am thinking "what did I get myself into, it's
harder than I thought." So re-plastering on my own is very tempting, I am
just afraid I might get myself into something beyond the labor I can put
into it (trying to get it right for weeks?) hmmm...

Magnitude and skill level are two different things. There are plenty of
$7000 jobs that I couldn't possibly do, and plenty of others that I'm
just too lazy to do.

Assuming the pool refurbishing professionals charge $100/hr, it's only
going to take them 70 hours. Less, actually, because some of the charge
is for materials. Since you're inexperienced, multiply by somewhere
between 1.5 and 10. Yep, you've got a dilemma.

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Jun 17, 1:54 pm, "scorpionleather" wrote:
I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last
for
about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec
and new waterline tile etc. The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has
not
been replastered for over 30 years. The existing plaster is chipped in
some
spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. After pressure washing
it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that
was
loose has already worn off over the years. It had a coat of paint in the
1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn
off.
I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can
remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion problem.

I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something
like
synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until
re-plastering
down the road. That might not last for 5 years. So I'm leaning toward the
Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. I'd use Gunzite primer and then
Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years.

Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a
replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint?
Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that
instead of plaster? I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it
does to plaster. I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who has
seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy.

If you paint now, I dont think a concrete base coating can go over
paint in the future

---

not only that, but if it had a coating on it, would paint or epoxy stick to
it now or are you forced into replastering, or at least removing all traces
of what is on there, now?

"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message
...
Master Tang wrote:
"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article ,
"scorpionleather" wrote:

I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last
for
about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or
pebble-tec
and new waterline tile etc. The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it
has not
been replastered for over 30 years. The existing plaster is chipped in
some
spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. After pressure
washing
it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that
was
loose has already worn off over the years. It had a coat of paint in
the
1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn
off.
I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing)
can
remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion
problem.

I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something
like
synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until
re-plastering
down the road. That might not last for 5 years. So I'm leaning toward
the
Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. I'd use Gunzite primer and then
Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years.

Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a
replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber
paint?
Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep
that
instead of plaster? I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than
it
does to plaster. I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who
has
seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy.
Why not follow Richard Kinch's guide:

"How I Re-Plastered and Re-Modeled My Own Swimming Pool For only $502"

(Of course, his pool was only 27,000 gallons.)

Here's the link:

http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm

Thanks for the link. I've got a pool that about 30 y/o and starting to
show it's age. I was considering painting but I'll probably replaster.
Mines only 10.5K gal

10.5K gal, I just got through pumping more than that
out of a nice old lady's basement. *Snicker*

TDD

It's a lap pool that is only about 5 ft deep in the middle. It has a spa
attached. It would be nice to have a deep end for the kids to jump in but
it's great for volley ball.

On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 12:48:44 -0700, "scorpionleather"
wrote:

Any thoughts on this post I found on the web? Is this guy making it sound
too hard or does Richard make it sound too easy for DIY?


Of course you will need some help. Richard enlisted his children and
made it a family event. Plenty of lessons learned. He details the
work, staging the material is a big part of the job. Here I would have
to haul all the material from the street. Once in place plastering
would seem easy..

I don't know the old man you mention.


old maint man wrote:

This is not a do it yourself job. If you are determined to do it I can only
suggest you go to a job and observe how they do it. I have had pools
re-plastered and it is not a patch type job. You could Fiberglas the pool to
make the repairs and that would work. It is cheaper than re-plastering. When
the re-plaster a pool all the plaster must be chipped off or it wont work.
This is very time consuming and requires a lot of labor. You would need an
air compressor and chipping guns to achieve this. Depending on the size it
could take two or more days. All of this plaster must be removed. When you
start plastering the pool it requires about eight or more people because
when you start you can not stop until it is complete. It is quite a process.
There would be people applying the plaster as others would be delivering
more plaster as the job went on. The people on the bottom wear cleats with
pins on the bottom to walk around on the plaster and not leave foot prints.
As they finish up they will be wearing large pieces of foam as they do the
final finish. I don't think there is any way to learn this without doing it.
As I said it is not a do it yourself job.

On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 13:08:09 -0700 (PDT), ransley
wrote:

If you paint now, I dont think a concrete base coating can go over
paint in the future

Given the cost of pool paint, it would seem insane to paint over
damaged plaster (band-aid). I have plaster damage on the bottom of the
pool and no way would I paint it without repairs being made.

On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 15:07:07 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

10.5K gal, I just got through pumping more than that
out of a nice old lady's basement. *Snicker*

So, how deep was it?

Oren wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 15:07:07 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

10.5K gal, I just got through pumping more than that
out of a nice old lady's basement. *Snicker*

So, how deep was it?


It wasn't that it was so deep, it just kept coming.
I suppose the surrounding earth must have been saturated.
My lawyer friend's basement flooded and water was shooting
up from a crack in the concrete floor. It's a wonder his
house hadn't floated away.

TDD

The Daring Dufas wrote:
Oren wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 15:07:07 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

10.5K gal, I just got through pumping more than that
out of a nice old lady's basement. *Snicker*

So, how deep was it?


It wasn't that it was so deep, it just kept coming.
I suppose the surrounding earth must have been saturated.
My lawyer friend's basement flooded and water was shooting
up from a crack in the concrete floor. It's a wonder his
house hadn't floated away.

TDD

Some lots should not have basements, and some should not be built on at
all. I remember working on a house like that- everyone else in the sub
had built-up lots and crawlspaces- this guy insisted on a flat lot and
DEEP basement, so he could have a flat ceiling. Inside and outside
perimeter drains, a big X of drain tile across the middle of basement
floor, 2 sump pits with pumps, and a 12" pipe to an outright precast
deep manhole planted in front yard as the final line of defense. Idea
being that if there was a massive rainfall or ground water swell,
combined with an extended power failure, he would jump in his Mercedes,
run down to the RentAll place, and rent a gas-powered pump and draft
tube to stick in the manhole. Only trouble was, the whole damn
neighborhood was so flat, he would have needed a quarter-mile of hose to
get the water to go anywhere.

I was just a kid, so I kept my mouth shut....

--
aem sends....

aemeijers wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote:
Oren wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 15:07:07 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote:

10.5K gal, I just got through pumping more than that
out of a nice old lady's basement. *Snicker*

So, how deep was it?


It wasn't that it was so deep, it just kept coming.
I suppose the surrounding earth must have been saturated.
My lawyer friend's basement flooded and water was shooting
up from a crack in the concrete floor. It's a wonder his
house hadn't floated away.

TDD

Some lots should not have basements, and some should not be built on at
all. I remember working on a house like that- everyone else in the sub
had built-up lots and crawlspaces- this guy insisted on a flat lot and
DEEP basement, so he could have a flat ceiling. Inside and outside
perimeter drains, a big X of drain tile across the middle of basement
floor, 2 sump pits with pumps, and a 12" pipe to an outright precast
deep manhole planted in front yard as the final line of defense. Idea
being that if there was a massive rainfall or ground water swell,
combined with an extended power failure, he would jump in his Mercedes,
run down to the RentAll place, and rent a gas-powered pump and draft
tube to stick in the manhole. Only trouble was, the whole damn
neighborhood was so flat, he would have needed a quarter-mile of hose to
get the water to go anywhere.

I was just a kid, so I kept my mouth shut....

--

When I see someone do something really stupid, I often
resist the urge to say anything unless I believe someone
will be injured or it will damage someone else's stuff.
My favorite is the jerk who says "Shut up, I know what
I'm doing!" If it's a boss, have a wittiness or recorder
because when it blows, you may get the blame. I once
worked with a guy who'd been an ET in the Navy and he
would request his orders in writing when ordered to do
something stupid or dangerous for him or his shipmates.
It really irritated his superiors but he was usually
right and that torqued their shorts even worse.

TDD

In addition to Richard's guide, I found the install manual for Diamond Brite
plaster, and overall it sounds do-able as a DIY project. Every pro that I
talks to hates pool paint, so I'll see if I can do the plaster myself. The
cost of the plaster would be about the same as the cost of paint. I figure
that a novice plaster job with some imperfections will be superior to a good
paint job, right?

Most of the instructions/experiences of plastering sound within my
abilities. Except the part I'm worried about is not having a team of 5
people troweling at the same time... wouldn't the sections dry before I
have a chance to put down new plaster, and make it hard to make one
continuous layer? Richard separated his into sections but he had to invent
some extra steps to do it that way.

OK plaster is the way to go, maybe it's time for a big adventure DIY
project.

http://sgm.cc/download/installationm...amondBrite.pdf

In addition to Richard's guide, I found the install manual for Diamond Brite
plaster, and overall it sounds do-able as a DIY project. Every pro that I
talks to hates pool paint, so I'll see if I can do the plaster myself. The
cost of the plaster would be about the same as the cost of paint. I figure
that a novice plaster job with some imperfections will be superior to a good
paint job, right?

Most of the instructions/experiences of plastering sound within my
abilities. Except the part I'm worried about is not having a team of 5
people troweling at the same time... wouldn't the sections dry before I
have a chance to put down new plaster, and make it hard to make one
continuous layer? Richard separated his into sections but he had to invent
some extra steps to do it that way.

OK plaster is the way to go, maybe it's time for a big adventure DIY
project.

http://sgm.cc/download/installationm...amondBrite.pdf