Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last for
about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec and new waterline tile etc. The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has not been replastered for over 30 years. The existing plaster is chipped in some spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. After pressure washing it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that was loose has already worn off over the years. It had a coat of paint in the 1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn off. I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion problem. I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something like synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until re-plastering down the road. That might not last for 5 years. So I'm leaning toward the Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. I'd use Gunzite primer and then Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years. Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint? Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that instead of plaster? I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it does to plaster. I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who has seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy. |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
In article ,
"scorpionleather" wrote: I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last for about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec and new waterline tile etc. The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has not been replastered for over 30 years. The existing plaster is chipped in some spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. After pressure washing it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that was loose has already worn off over the years. It had a coat of paint in the 1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn off. I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion problem. I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something like synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until re-plastering down the road. That might not last for 5 years. So I'm leaning toward the Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. I'd use Gunzite primer and then Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years. Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint? Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that instead of plaster? I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it does to plaster. I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who has seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy. Why not follow Richard Kinch's guide: "How I Re-Plastered and Re-Modeled My Own Swimming Pool For only $502" (Of course, his pool was only 27,000 gallons.) Here's the link: http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 12:15:22 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote: Why not follow Richard Kinch's guide: "How I Re-Plastered and Re-Modeled My Own Swimming Pool For only $502" (Of course, his pool was only 27,000 gallons.) Here's the link: http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm Richard also has an outstanding page on garage door repair. |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
"Smitty Two" wrote in message ... In article , "scorpionleather" wrote: I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last for about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec and new waterline tile etc. The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has not been replastered for over 30 years. The existing plaster is chipped in some spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. After pressure washing it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that was loose has already worn off over the years. It had a coat of paint in the 1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn off. I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion problem. I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something like synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until re-plastering down the road. That might not last for 5 years. So I'm leaning toward the Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. I'd use Gunzite primer and then Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years. Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint? Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that instead of plaster? I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it does to plaster. I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who has seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy. Why not follow Richard Kinch's guide: "How I Re-Plastered and Re-Modeled My Own Swimming Pool For only $502" (Of course, his pool was only 27,000 gallons.) Here's the link: http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm Thanks for the link. I've got a pool that about 30 y/o and starting to show it's age. I was considering painting but I'll probably replaster. Mines only 10.5K gal |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
"Smitty Two" wrote in message
Why not follow Richard Kinch's guide: "How I Re-Plastered and Re-Modeled My Own Swimming Pool For only $502" (Of course, his pool was only 27,000 gallons.) Here's the link: http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm Excellent guide, thanks. I wonder how many days I would spend inside the pool if I tried this. Reading the article, it sounds do-able. Then I think about why it would cost $7,000 to hire a team to do it. Normally if a job costs $7,000 it is beyond what I can do on my own. I paid to have two giant trees removed for only $1,000 and I could never imagine climbing up like they did, and lifting those big pieces of tree trunk on my own. But I do most of my own electrical and plumbing, and I've done floors before but whenever I do hard floors I am thinking "what did I get myself into, it's harder than I thought." So re-plastering on my own is very tempting, I am just afraid I might get myself into something beyond the labor I can put into it (trying to get it right for weeks?) hmmm... |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
Any thoughts on this post I found on the web? Is this guy making it sound
too hard or does Richard make it sound too easy for DIY? old maint man wrote: This is not a do it yourself job. If you are determined to do it I can only suggest you go to a job and observe how they do it. I have had pools re-plastered and it is not a patch type job. You could Fiberglas the pool to make the repairs and that would work. It is cheaper than re-plastering. When the re-plaster a pool all the plaster must be chipped off or it wont work. This is very time consuming and requires a lot of labor. You would need an air compressor and chipping guns to achieve this. Depending on the size it could take two or more days. All of this plaster must be removed. When you start plastering the pool it requires about eight or more people because when you start you can not stop until it is complete. It is quite a process. There would be people applying the plaster as others would be delivering more plaster as the job went on. The people on the bottom wear cleats with pins on the bottom to walk around on the plaster and not leave foot prints. As they finish up they will be wearing large pieces of foam as they do the final finish. I don't think there is any way to learn this without doing it. As I said it is not a do it yourself job. |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
Master Tang wrote:
"Smitty Two" wrote in message ... In article , "scorpionleather" wrote: I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last for about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec and new waterline tile etc. The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has not been replastered for over 30 years. The existing plaster is chipped in some spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. After pressure washing it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that was loose has already worn off over the years. It had a coat of paint in the 1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn off. I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion problem. I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something like synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until re-plastering down the road. That might not last for 5 years. So I'm leaning toward the Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. I'd use Gunzite primer and then Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years. Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint? Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that instead of plaster? I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it does to plaster. I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who has seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy. Why not follow Richard Kinch's guide: "How I Re-Plastered and Re-Modeled My Own Swimming Pool For only $502" (Of course, his pool was only 27,000 gallons.) Here's the link: http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm Thanks for the link. I've got a pool that about 30 y/o and starting to show it's age. I was considering painting but I'll probably replaster. Mines only 10.5K gal 10.5K gal, I just got through pumping more than that out of a nice old lady's basement. *Snicker* TDD |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
On Jun 17, 1:54*pm, "scorpionleather" wrote:
I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last for about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec and new waterline tile etc. *The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has not been replastered for over 30 years. *The existing plaster is chipped in some spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. *After pressure washing it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that was loose has already worn off over the years. *It had a coat of paint in the 1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn off. I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion problem.. I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something like synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until re-plastering down the road. *That might not last for 5 years. *So I'm leaning toward the Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. *I'd use Gunzite primer and then Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years. Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint? Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that instead of plaster? *I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it does to plaster. *I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who has seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy. If you paint now, I dont think a concrete base coating can go over paint in the future |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
In article ,
"scorpionleather" wrote: "Smitty Two" wrote in message Why not follow Richard Kinch's guide: "How I Re-Plastered and Re-Modeled My Own Swimming Pool For only $502" (Of course, his pool was only 27,000 gallons.) Here's the link: http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm Excellent guide, thanks. I wonder how many days I would spend inside the pool if I tried this. Reading the article, it sounds do-able. Then I think about why it would cost $7,000 to hire a team to do it. Normally if a job costs $7,000 it is beyond what I can do on my own. I paid to have two giant trees removed for only $1,000 and I could never imagine climbing up like they did, and lifting those big pieces of tree trunk on my own. But I do most of my own electrical and plumbing, and I've done floors before but whenever I do hard floors I am thinking "what did I get myself into, it's harder than I thought." So re-plastering on my own is very tempting, I am just afraid I might get myself into something beyond the labor I can put into it (trying to get it right for weeks?) hmmm... Magnitude and skill level are two different things. There are plenty of $7000 jobs that I couldn't possibly do, and plenty of others that I'm just too lazy to do. Assuming the pool refurbishing professionals charge $100/hr, it's only going to take them 70 hours. Less, actually, because some of the charge is for materials. Since you're inexperienced, multiply by somewhere between 1.5 and 10. Yep, you've got a dilemma. |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
"ransley" wrote in message ... On Jun 17, 1:54 pm, "scorpionleather" wrote: I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last for about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec and new waterline tile etc. The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has not been replastered for over 30 years. The existing plaster is chipped in some spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. After pressure washing it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that was loose has already worn off over the years. It had a coat of paint in the 1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn off. I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion problem. I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something like synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until re-plastering down the road. That might not last for 5 years. So I'm leaning toward the Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. I'd use Gunzite primer and then Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years. Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint? Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that instead of plaster? I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it does to plaster. I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who has seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy. If you paint now, I dont think a concrete base coating can go over paint in the future --- not only that, but if it had a coating on it, would paint or epoxy stick to it now or are you forced into replastering, or at least removing all traces of what is on there, now? |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
"The Daring Dufas" wrote in message ... Master Tang wrote: "Smitty Two" wrote in message ... In article , "scorpionleather" wrote: I'm having a tricky time to decide on a white pool paint that will last for about 5 years until we can save up some money to re-plaster or pebble-tec and new waterline tile etc. The pool is 40,000 gallon gunite and it has not been replastered for over 30 years. The existing plaster is chipped in some spots, and other parts are still strong and intact. After pressure washing it seems like a pretty solid base for a coat, because the material that was loose has already worn off over the years. It had a coat of paint in the 1980s, possibly chlorinated rubber or acrylic, and that is mostly worn off. I am hoping that acid wash (followed by additional pressure washing) can remove any remaining paint specs so it doesn't create an adhesion problem. I cannot decide whether I should do a very-temporary coat of something like synthetic acrylic or chlorinated rubber, just to get by until re-plastering down the road. That might not last for 5 years. So I'm leaning toward the Kelley Technical Coating Epoxy system. I'd use Gunzite primer and then Zeron epoxy, which should last 8 years. Would the epoxy be so strong that it would make it harder to do a replastering job later on, vs. if I used cheaper acrylic or rubber paint? Would I possibly like the epoxy so much that I could decide to keep that instead of plaster? I heard that the algae adheres less to epoxy than it does to plaster. I am confused, would appreciate tips from anyone who has seen or tried different coatings, especially epoxy. Why not follow Richard Kinch's guide: "How I Re-Plastered and Re-Modeled My Own Swimming Pool For only $502" (Of course, his pool was only 27,000 gallons.) Here's the link: http://www.truetex.com/pool.htm Thanks for the link. I've got a pool that about 30 y/o and starting to show it's age. I was considering painting but I'll probably replaster. Mines only 10.5K gal 10.5K gal, I just got through pumping more than that out of a nice old lady's basement. *Snicker* TDD It's a lap pool that is only about 5 ft deep in the middle. It has a spa attached. It would be nice to have a deep end for the kids to jump in but it's great for volley ball. |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 12:48:44 -0700, "scorpionleather"
wrote: Any thoughts on this post I found on the web? Is this guy making it sound too hard or does Richard make it sound too easy for DIY? Of course you will need some help. Richard enlisted his children and made it a family event. Plenty of lessons learned. He details the work, staging the material is a big part of the job. Here I would have to haul all the material from the street. Once in place plastering would seem easy.. I don't know the old man you mention. old maint man wrote: This is not a do it yourself job. If you are determined to do it I can only suggest you go to a job and observe how they do it. I have had pools re-plastered and it is not a patch type job. You could Fiberglas the pool to make the repairs and that would work. It is cheaper than re-plastering. When the re-plaster a pool all the plaster must be chipped off or it wont work. This is very time consuming and requires a lot of labor. You would need an air compressor and chipping guns to achieve this. Depending on the size it could take two or more days. All of this plaster must be removed. When you start plastering the pool it requires about eight or more people because when you start you can not stop until it is complete. It is quite a process. There would be people applying the plaster as others would be delivering more plaster as the job went on. The people on the bottom wear cleats with pins on the bottom to walk around on the plaster and not leave foot prints. As they finish up they will be wearing large pieces of foam as they do the final finish. I don't think there is any way to learn this without doing it. As I said it is not a do it yourself job. |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 13:08:09 -0700 (PDT), ransley
wrote: If you paint now, I dont think a concrete base coating can go over paint in the future Given the cost of pool paint, it would seem insane to paint over damaged plaster (band-aid). I have plaster damage on the bottom of the pool and no way would I paint it without repairs being made. |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 15:07:07 -0500, The Daring Dufas
wrote: 10.5K gal, I just got through pumping more than that out of a nice old lady's basement. *Snicker* So, how deep was it? |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
Oren wrote:
On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 15:07:07 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote: 10.5K gal, I just got through pumping more than that out of a nice old lady's basement. *Snicker* So, how deep was it? It wasn't that it was so deep, it just kept coming. I suppose the surrounding earth must have been saturated. My lawyer friend's basement flooded and water was shooting up from a crack in the concrete floor. It's a wonder his house hadn't floated away. TDD |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
The Daring Dufas wrote:
Oren wrote: On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 15:07:07 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote: 10.5K gal, I just got through pumping more than that out of a nice old lady's basement. *Snicker* So, how deep was it? It wasn't that it was so deep, it just kept coming. I suppose the surrounding earth must have been saturated. My lawyer friend's basement flooded and water was shooting up from a crack in the concrete floor. It's a wonder his house hadn't floated away. TDD Some lots should not have basements, and some should not be built on at all. I remember working on a house like that- everyone else in the sub had built-up lots and crawlspaces- this guy insisted on a flat lot and DEEP basement, so he could have a flat ceiling. Inside and outside perimeter drains, a big X of drain tile across the middle of basement floor, 2 sump pits with pumps, and a 12" pipe to an outright precast deep manhole planted in front yard as the final line of defense. Idea being that if there was a massive rainfall or ground water swell, combined with an extended power failure, he would jump in his Mercedes, run down to the RentAll place, and rent a gas-powered pump and draft tube to stick in the manhole. Only trouble was, the whole damn neighborhood was so flat, he would have needed a quarter-mile of hose to get the water to go anywhere. I was just a kid, so I kept my mouth shut.... -- aem sends.... |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
aemeijers wrote:
The Daring Dufas wrote: Oren wrote: On Wed, 17 Jun 2009 15:07:07 -0500, The Daring Dufas wrote: 10.5K gal, I just got through pumping more than that out of a nice old lady's basement. *Snicker* So, how deep was it? It wasn't that it was so deep, it just kept coming. I suppose the surrounding earth must have been saturated. My lawyer friend's basement flooded and water was shooting up from a crack in the concrete floor. It's a wonder his house hadn't floated away. TDD Some lots should not have basements, and some should not be built on at all. I remember working on a house like that- everyone else in the sub had built-up lots and crawlspaces- this guy insisted on a flat lot and DEEP basement, so he could have a flat ceiling. Inside and outside perimeter drains, a big X of drain tile across the middle of basement floor, 2 sump pits with pumps, and a 12" pipe to an outright precast deep manhole planted in front yard as the final line of defense. Idea being that if there was a massive rainfall or ground water swell, combined with an extended power failure, he would jump in his Mercedes, run down to the RentAll place, and rent a gas-powered pump and draft tube to stick in the manhole. Only trouble was, the whole damn neighborhood was so flat, he would have needed a quarter-mile of hose to get the water to go anywhere. I was just a kid, so I kept my mouth shut.... -- When I see someone do something really stupid, I often resist the urge to say anything unless I believe someone will be injured or it will damage someone else's stuff. My favorite is the jerk who says "Shut up, I know what I'm doing!" If it's a boss, have a wittiness or recorder because when it blows, you may get the blame. I once worked with a guy who'd been an ET in the Navy and he would request his orders in writing when ordered to do something stupid or dangerous for him or his shipmates. It really irritated his superiors but he was usually right and that torqued their shorts even worse. TDD |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
In addition to Richard's guide, I found the install manual for Diamond Brite
plaster, and overall it sounds do-able as a DIY project. Every pro that I talks to hates pool paint, so I'll see if I can do the plaster myself. The cost of the plaster would be about the same as the cost of paint. I figure that a novice plaster job with some imperfections will be superior to a good paint job, right? Most of the instructions/experiences of plastering sound within my abilities. Except the part I'm worried about is not having a team of 5 people troweling at the same time... wouldn't the sections dry before I have a chance to put down new plaster, and make it hard to make one continuous layer? Richard separated his into sections but he had to invent some extra steps to do it that way. OK plaster is the way to go, maybe it's time for a big adventure DIY project. http://sgm.cc/download/installationm...amondBrite.pdf |
Selecting pool paint to last for 5 years
In addition to Richard's guide, I found the install manual for Diamond Brite
plaster, and overall it sounds do-able as a DIY project. Every pro that I talks to hates pool paint, so I'll see if I can do the plaster myself. The cost of the plaster would be about the same as the cost of paint. I figure that a novice plaster job with some imperfections will be superior to a good paint job, right? Most of the instructions/experiences of plastering sound within my abilities. Except the part I'm worried about is not having a team of 5 people troweling at the same time... wouldn't the sections dry before I have a chance to put down new plaster, and make it hard to make one continuous layer? Richard separated his into sections but he had to invent some extra steps to do it that way. OK plaster is the way to go, maybe it's time for a big adventure DIY project. http://sgm.cc/download/installationm...amondBrite.pdf |
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