Incorporated by a surrounding town sewer and water came through and we
hooked up last fall. Just not used to the high water pressure and thus high
water bills. Thought I'd invest in a regulator. Thinking of putting it
after the water softener as the water's twice as hard as the well water was
and judging from the buildup on the glasses in the dishwasher when I tried
running it with the softener off, I think it may protect the regulator. Any
input on anyone's experiences would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Incorporated by a surrounding town sewer and water came through and
we hooked up last fall. Just not used to the high water pressure and
thus high water bills.

High water bills are not caused by high water pressure. They're caused
by high water use.

Thought I'd invest in a regulator.

This is the correct device to reduce excessive water pressure.

Thinking
of putting it after the water softener as the water's twice as hard
as the well water was and judging from the buildup on the glasses in
the dishwasher when I tried running it with the softener off, I think
it may protect the regulator.

The pressure regulator needs to be first. Your softener needs to be
protected from excessive water pressure.

Any input on anyone's experiences
would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Excessive water pressure will cause all sorts of plumbing parts to wear
out faster. You need to reduce pressure for the whole house.

Excessive water pressure is more than 80 PSI.

--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA

"Questor" wrote in message
...
Incorporated by a surrounding town sewer and water came through and we
hooked up last fall. Just not used to the high water pressure and thus
high water bills. Thought I'd invest in a regulator. Thinking of putting
it after the water softener as the water's twice as hard as the well water
was and judging from the buildup on the glasses in the dishwasher when I
tried running it with the softener off, I think it may protect the
regulator. Any input on anyone's experiences would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Water bills are based on use. Usually a minimum charge, then so much per
hundred gallons. Pressure has nothing to do with it, volume does.

Before you buy and install a regulator, buy a cheap pressure gauge and see
how much pressure you have. If it is in the 75# or less range, don't waste
your money. If much higher, get the regulator and put it before the
softener. If the hardness sis twice your well, why would you bypass the
softener? That makes no sense at all.

RicodJour wrote:
On May 24, 11:06 am, Bubba wrote:
On Fri, 22 May 2009 22:40:24 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:

Water bills are based on use. Usually a minimum charge, then so much per
hundred gallons. Pressure has nothing to do with it, volume does.
WTF??? Pressure has nothing to do with it? I think you need a lesson
in water pressure.

So, you're saying that a house that's higher up on the hill, with
lower water pressure, pays less for their thousand gallons of water
than a house lower down, with higher pressure, pays for their thousand
gallons?

Lets take a 3/4" pipe and run water through it at 50psi for 1 min.
Lets take a 3/4" pipe and run water through it at 100psi for 1 min.
Do you mean to tell me that you would have the same amount of water
from both scenarios?
Oh my. Better try again.

That's not what he was saying at all. Read it again.

If the OP can't figure out that with higher pressure, and a lot more
water spurting out of the faucet at a given faucet opening, well,
there's a bigger problem there than the water usage.

Simple solution, don't open the faucet as much.

R

Makes sense, but I suspect that the most use comes from the shower,
which if it's one of the modern single-handle deals, can't be throttled
back. Would be easier, of course, to simply install a low flow shower head.

Dishwasher, clothes washer, etc. all fill to a volume, so pressure is
irrelevant for those appliances.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On May 24, 11:06*am, Bubba wrote:
On Fri, 22 May 2009 22:40:24 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:

Water bills are based on use. *Usually a minimum charge, then so much per
hundred gallons. *Pressure has nothing to do with it, volume does.

WTF??? Pressure has nothing to do with it? I think you need a lesson
in water pressure.

So, you're saying that a house that's higher up on the hill, with
lower water pressure, pays less for their thousand gallons of water
than a house lower down, with higher pressure, pays for their thousand
gallons?

Lets take a 3/4" pipe and run water through it at 50psi for 1 min.
Lets take a 3/4" pipe and run water through it at 100psi for 1 min.
Do you mean to tell me that you would have the same amount of water
from both scenarios?
Oh my. Better try again.

That's not what he was saying at all. Read it again.

If the OP can't figure out that with higher pressure, and a lot more
water spurting out of the faucet at a given faucet opening, well,
there's a bigger problem there than the water usage.

Simple solution, don't open the faucet as much.

R

On May 24, 11:06*am, Bubba wrote:
On Fri, 22 May 2009 22:40:24 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:



"Questor" wrote in message
.. .
Incorporated by a surrounding town sewer and water came through and we
hooked up last fall. *Just not used to the high water pressure and thus
high water bills. *Thought I'd invest in a regulator. *Thinking of putting
it after the water softener as the water's twice as hard as the well water
was and judging from the buildup on the glasses in the dishwasher when I
tried running it with the softener off, I think it may protect the
regulator. *Any input on anyone's experiences would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Water bills are based on use. *Usually a minimum charge, then so much per
hundred gallons. *Pressure has nothing to do with it, volume does.

WTF??? Pressure has nothing to do with it? I think you need a lesson
in water pressure.
Lets take a 3/4" pipe and run water through it at 50psi for 1 min.
Lets take a 3/4" pipe and run water through it at 100psi for 1 min.
Do you mean to tell me that you would have the same amount of water
from both scenarios?
Oh my. Better try again.
Bubba



Before you buy and install a regulator, buy a cheap pressure gauge and see
how much pressure you have. *If it is in the 75# or less range, don't waste
your money. *If much higher, get the regulator and put it before the
softener. *If the hardness sis twice your well, why would you bypass the
softener? *That makes no sense at all.

Quick poll:

How many of us have open-ended 3/4" pipes that they run water through?

"Do you mean to tell me that you would have the same amount of
water from both scenarios?"

I would if the output was restricted to a specific flow rate
regardless of the pressure.

"Bubba" wrote in message

WTF??? Pressure has nothing to do with it? I think you need a lesson
in water pressure.
Lets take a 3/4" pipe and run water through it at 50psi for 1 min.
Lets take a 3/4" pipe and run water through it at 100psi for 1 min.
Do you mean to tell me that you would have the same amount of water
from both scenarios?
Oh my. Better try again.
Bubba


Flush toilet. Depending on model, 1.2 to 5 gallon used. Same at 40 psi,
same at 80 psi. Fill ice cube trays, same amount of water used at 40 psi,
same as 80 psi. Do a load of wash. Same either way. That meter counts the
number of gallons going past it no matter what the pressure. I stand by my
statement.

On Sun, 24 May 2009 11:06:46 -0400, Bubba
wrote:

On Fri, 22 May 2009 22:40:24 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Questor" wrote in message
. ..
Incorporated by a surrounding town sewer and water came through and we
hooked up last fall. Just not used to the high water pressure and thus
high water bills. Thought I'd invest in a regulator. Thinking of putting
it after the water softener as the water's twice as hard as the well water
was and judging from the buildup on the glasses in the dishwasher when I
tried running it with the softener off, I think it may protect the
regulator. Any input on anyone's experiences would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.

Water bills are based on use. Usually a minimum charge, then so much per
hundred gallons. Pressure has nothing to do with it, volume does.

WTF??? Pressure has nothing to do with it? I think you need a lesson
in water pressure.
Lets take a 3/4" pipe and run water through it at 50psi for 1 min.
Lets take a 3/4" pipe and run water through it at 100psi for 1 min.
Do you mean to tell me that you would have the same amount of water
from both scenarios?
Oh my. Better try again.
Bubba

Before you buy and install a regulator, buy a cheap pressure gauge and see
how much pressure you have. If it is in the 75# or less range, don't waste
your money. If much higher, get the regulator and put it before the
softener. If the hardness sis twice your well, why would you bypass the
softener? That makes no sense at all.

Taps are not switches.
Not hard to modulate the flow of 85psig water.

On May 24, 2:51*pm, wrote:

Taps are not switches.
Not hard to modulate the flow of 85psig water.

Well, yes they are 'switches' - just analog and not digital.

R

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
RicodJour wrote:
On May 24, 11:06 am, Bubba wrote:
On Fri, 22 May 2009 22:40:24 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:

Water bills are based on use. Usually a minimum charge, then so much
per
hundred gallons. Pressure has nothing to do with it, volume does.
WTF??? Pressure has nothing to do with it? I think you need a lesson
in water pressure.

So, you're saying that a house that's higher up on the hill, with
lower water pressure, pays less for their thousand gallons of water
than a house lower down, with higher pressure, pays for their thousand
gallons?

Lets take a 3/4" pipe and run water through it at 50psi for 1 min.
Lets take a 3/4" pipe and run water through it at 100psi for 1 min.
Do you mean to tell me that you would have the same amount of water
from both scenarios?
Oh my. Better try again.

That's not what he was saying at all. Read it again.

If the OP can't figure out that with higher pressure, and a lot more
water spurting out of the faucet at a given faucet opening, well,
there's a bigger problem there than the water usage.

Simple solution, don't open the faucet as much.

R

Makes sense, but I suspect that the most use comes from the shower,
which if it's one of the modern single-handle deals, can't be throttled
back. Would be easier, of course, to simply install a low flow shower
head.

I installed a 1/2" ball valve (brass/stainless) before the shower head--just
turn it down til it's enough pressure.


Dishwasher, clothes washer, etc. all fill to a volume, so pressure is
irrelevant for those appliances.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

Thanks everyone for your input. I am more concerened with the waste from
the excessive pressure making the garden hose almost uncontrolable and the
waste of water with sink and shower use (even shower restrictor doesn't seem
to help). I know with self disapline controling the the flow by adjusting
the spickets is possible but I think its easier just to trottle it down with
the regulator as not to try and have family and guests concerned. I was
hoping to hear from someone who had a similar concern with their water
pressure and took this route. I'm sure they are out there as the reglators
are on the market.

"Questor" wrote in message
...
Thanks everyone for your input. I am more concerened with the waste from
the excessive pressure making the garden hose almost uncontrolable and the
waste of water with sink and shower use (even shower restrictor doesn't
seem to help). I know with self disapline controling the the flow by
adjusting the spickets is possible but I think its easier just to trottle
it down with the regulator as not to try and have family and guests
concerned. I was hoping to hear from someone who had a similar concern
with their water pressure and took this route. I'm sure they are out
there as the reglators are on the market.

Never checked what I have at home. Our pressure at work is 105# and never a
problem. We also run a recirculating cooling tower and that system runs at
80#. Perhaps you've just gotten used to a wussy system in the past.

and it is SPIGOT.

On May 25, 12:48*am, "Questor" wrote:
Thanks everyone for your input. *I am more concerened with the waste from
the excessive pressure making the garden hose almost uncontrolable and the
waste of water with sink and shower use (even shower restrictor doesn't seem
to help). *I know with self disapline controling the the flow by adjusting
the spickets is possible but I think its easier just to trottle it down with
the regulator as not to try and have family and guests concerned. *I was
hoping to hear from someone who had a similar concern with their water
pressure and took this route. *I'm sure they are out there as the reglators
are on the market.

As others have noted, you need to determine what the actual water
pressure is. You can pick up a water pressure gauge in the plumbing
aisle of a big box store for about ten bucks. If your pressure is
over 75 or 80 PSI, the regulator makes sense. You could also call
your water department and they would most likely be able to tell you
fairly accurately what the typical water pressure in your neighborhood
is.

R

Thanks, the pressure gage sounds like a good idea. We're retired on limited
income and looking to cut costs and the water bill seems like one of the
expenses I can do something with. One of the contractors we were getting
estimates from mentioned the pressure was in the 80lb range and we've heard
the sewer and water bills in this area were high.

On May 25, 10:38*am, "Questor" wrote:
Thanks, the pressure gage sounds like a good idea. *We're retired on limited
income and looking to cut costs and the water bill seems like one of the
expenses I can do something with. *One of the contractors we were getting
estimates from mentioned the pressure was in the 80lb range and we've heard
the sewer and water bills in this area were high.

I think investigating the pressure is the first step, and if it is
high you should do something about it, but you should realize that a
high water bill comes from old habits. It's no different than someone
leaving the refrigerator door open while they get the and make their
coffee, or leaving a window open in an air-conditioned house.

Learning new habits can be difficult with non-critical things. As
silly as it sounds, leaving a note at the kitchen faucet - Water! -
would help prevent unnecessary consumption.

Another thing you should do is to check your water meter when there's
no water running in the house at all - no toilets filling, no hot
water tank filling, etc. If the indicator is spinning when the water
is off everywhere you probably have a leak somewhere. Could be a
leaking toilet tank seal or something that you wouldn't really notice
unless you were looking for it. Such slow leaks, running 24/7, can
waste a lot of water.

R

Questor wrote:
Thanks, the pressure gage sounds like a good idea. We're retired on
limited income and looking to cut costs and the water bill seems like
one of the expenses I can do something with. One of the contractors we
were getting estimates from mentioned the pressure was in the 80lb range
and we've heard the sewer and water bills in this area were high.

The standard water pressure regulators for homes that
I've worked with were all factory set for 50 psi. The
problem with an unregulated supply of city water has
to do with pressure spikes that can damage various
valves such as the flush valves in toilet tanks and
the electric solenoid valves in dishwashers, washing
machines and ice makers. The pressure spikes can also
cause the T/P valve on your water heater to leak. I
once replaced a 1" regulator at a service station that
had 190 psi static pressure from the city water. The
pressure spikes were much higher and blew out the rubber
seats in all the sinks and wrecked all the big expensive
chrome Sloan flush valves in the restrooms. The outdoor
hose spigot was still at 190 psi and was great fun to
shoot streams of water across the street.

TDD

"Bubba" wrote in message

Ed,
You cant be that dense, are you? You WILL use MORE water at a higher
pressure. Turn the pressure down and you wont use as much (unless you
dont like the lower pressure and you decide to stay in the shower
longer to defeat it.) It's a fact. Add more pressure and you WILL use
more water. I dont care if it says 1.5 gal flush or 5 gal flush. You
WILL use more at a higher pressure. Adding a pressure regulator and
cutting your pressure down from say 100psi to 50psi will lower your
water useage. It will also extend the life of your water heater,
washing machine hoses, faucet washers, cartridges and almost every
other appliance device that uses water.


A gallon of water is a gallon of water, no matter the pressure it was
delivered at or how fast it was delivered. The meter measures gallons and
does not care about pressure. A five gallon flush uses five gallons at 40
psi or 80 psi. Shower may or may not be restricted so there could be some
difference there. Shower heads in the past five or ten years are restricted
to 2.5 gal/min, IIRC

Fill a gallon jug with water. Increase the pressure and fill it again.
Measure the water you pour out each time. It will be one gallon. What
don't you get? If your water is metric, use a liter instead.

On Mon, 25 May 2009 19:13:40 -0400, Bubba
wrote:

On Sun, 24 May 2009 11:58:18 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Bubba" wrote in message

WTF??? Pressure has nothing to do with it? I think you need a lesson
in water pressure.
Lets take a 3/4" pipe and run water through it at 50psi for 1 min.
Lets take a 3/4" pipe and run water through it at 100psi for 1 min.
Do you mean to tell me that you would have the same amount of water
from both scenarios?
Oh my. Better try again.
Bubba


Flush toilet. Depending on model, 1.2 to 5 gallon used. Same at 40 psi,
same at 80 psi
Wrong! That gallon useage is at a SPECIFIC pressure.

Do you know how a toylet works? Water pressure effect on water used
per flush will be extremely small. It can be compensated for easily by
slightly closing the shutoff cock in the pipe (which virtually all
toilets have)

Fill ice cube trays, same amount of water used at 40 psi,
same as 80 psi.
Wrong scenario. Of course you will use the same amount of water. The
tray only holds so much. You WILL however fill it faster at 80psi than
at 40psi.

Do a load of wash. Same either way. That meter counts the
number of gallons going past it no matter what the pressure. I stand by my
statement.
I cant help it if you are standing in the wrong place. Again, your
washing machine scenario is not a good choice. Washing machines have
water level sensors. It will fill to a predetermined level. Mine has
an adjustment. If I want more or less water in the tub, I just slide
the switch up or down.
Once again though, at 80psi, it will fill the tub faster than it would
if it were at 40psi.
Maybe you should try this:
Get a garden hose with whatever nozzle and setting you choose.
Put it in a 5 gal bucket. At 40psi, turn it on and see how long it
takes to fill the bucket.
Now Do it all over again only change the pressure to 80psi.
You will find that it fills almost (but not exactly) twice as fast.
You didnt do well in science, did you?
Bubba


Ed,
You cant be that dense, are you? You WILL use MORE water at a higher
pressure. Turn the pressure down and you wont use as much (unless you
dont like the lower pressure and you decide to stay in the shower
longer to defeat it.) It's a fact. Add more pressure and you WILL use
more water. I dont care if it says 1.5 gal flush or 5 gal flush. You
WILL use more at a higher pressure. Adding a pressure regulator and
cutting your pressure down from say 100psi to 50psi will lower your
water useage. It will also extend the life of your water heater,
washing machine hoses, faucet washers, cartridges and almost every
other appliance device that uses water.

On Sun, 24 May 2009 23:48:20 -0500, "Questor" wrote:

Thanks everyone for your input. I am more concerened with the waste from
the excessive pressure making the garden hose almost uncontrolable and the
waste of water with sink and shower use (even shower restrictor doesn't seem
to help). I know with self disapline controling the the flow by adjusting
the spickets is possible but I think its easier just to trottle it down with
the regulator as not to try and have family and guests concerned. I was
hoping to hear from someone who had a similar concern with their water
pressure and took this route. I'm sure they are out there as the reglators
are on the market.

Just cut your 1 inch water main (or 3/4") and install a short length
of smaller (like 1/2" ) pipe - cheaper than a regulator, a whole lot
less trouble prone, and just about as effective.

Or do like I did and install a ball valve for a shut-off. If you think
the pressure is too high, half close the valve to reduce the flow
rate.

On Sun, 24 May 2009 23:48:20 -0500, "Questor" wrote:

Thanks everyone for your input. I am more concerened with the waste from
the excessive pressure making the garden hose almost uncontrolable and the
waste of water with sink and shower use (even shower restrictor doesn't seem
to help). I know with self disapline controling the the flow by adjusting
the spickets is possible but I think its easier just to trottle it down with
the regulator as not to try and have family and guests concerned. I was
hoping to hear from someone who had a similar concern with their water
pressure and took this route. I'm sure they are out there as the reglators
are on the market.


Doubling the water pressure does not double the flow. 150psi fill flow
double the water that 50psi will through a given opening, according to
WATTS, manufacturer of domestic water pressure reduction valves.

According to them also, 80psi is considered "standard" household
pressure while many mains can run as high as 200psi. Most codes
require reduction valves if pressure excedes 80psi.

50 psi is piddle pressure.

wrote:
On Sun, 24 May 2009 23:48:20 -0500, "Questor" wrote:

Thanks everyone for your input. I am more concerened with the waste from
the excessive pressure making the garden hose almost uncontrolable and the
waste of water with sink and shower use (even shower restrictor doesn't seem
to help). I know with self disapline controling the the flow by adjusting
the spickets is possible but I think its easier just to trottle it down with
the regulator as not to try and have family and guests concerned. I was
hoping to hear from someone who had a similar concern with their water
pressure and took this route. I'm sure they are out there as the reglators
are on the market.

Just cut your 1 inch water main (or 3/4") and install a short length
of smaller (like 1/2" ) pipe - cheaper than a regulator, a whole lot
less trouble prone, and just about as effective.

Or do like I did and install a ball valve for a shut-off. If you think
the pressure is too high, half close the valve to reduce the flow
rate.

It's so easy to install the proper regulator. I've
installed a lot of them over the years and most of
them have been made by Watts like the N55B and the
25AUB-Z3.

http://tinyurl.com/r3vd4m

http://tinyurl.com/rdsguz

TDD

wrote:
On Sun, 24 May 2009 23:48:20 -0500, "Questor" wrote:

Thanks everyone for your input. I am more concerened with the waste from
the excessive pressure making the garden hose almost uncontrolable and the
waste of water with sink and shower use (even shower restrictor doesn't seem
to help). I know with self disapline controling the the flow by adjusting
the spickets is possible but I think its easier just to trottle it down with
the regulator as not to try and have family and guests concerned. I was
hoping to hear from someone who had a similar concern with their water
pressure and took this route. I'm sure they are out there as the reglators
are on the market.


Doubling the water pressure does not double the flow. 150psi fill flow
double the water that 50psi will through a given opening, according to
WATTS, manufacturer of domestic water pressure reduction valves.

According to them also, 80psi is considered "standard" household
pressure while many mains can run as high as 200psi. Most codes
require reduction valves if pressure excedes 80psi.

50 psi is piddle pressure.

Most of the Temperature and Pressure Relief Valves on
domestic/American water heaters are set for 150 psi.
If you have a static pressure of 80 psi and no regulator
on your home water supply, you may often get pressure
spikes that exceed the limit on the relief valve on the
water heater. After a time, the valve can start leaking.
Last year, it happened to a friend who's water bill went
way up. She had a leaking T/P valve on the water heater
after the water dept upgraded the water lines in her area.
Her static water pressure was around 80 psi and when I
put pressure gauge on her water line, I could see it jump
to over 100 psi every so often. The installation of a
regulator and new T/P valve solved the problem. There was
plenty of water flow at the factory set 50 psi.

TDD

On May 25, 10:54*pm, wrote:
On Sun, 24 May 2009 23:48:20 -0500, "Questor" wrote:
Thanks everyone for your input. *I am more concerened with the waste from
the excessive pressure making the garden hose almost uncontrolable and the
waste of water with sink and shower use (even shower restrictor doesn't seem
to help). *I know with self disapline controling the the flow by adjusting
the spickets is possible but I think its easier just to trottle it down with
the regulator as not to try and have family and guests concerned. *I was
hoping to hear from someone who had a similar concern with their water
pressure and took this route. *I'm sure they are out there as the reglators
are on the market.

Doubling the water pressure does not double the flow. 150psi fill flow
double the water that 50psi will through a given opening, according to
WATTS, manufacturer of domestic water pressure reduction valves.

According to them also, 80psi is considered "standard" household
pressure while many mains can run as high as 200psi. Most codes
require reduction valves if pressure excedes 80psi.

50 psi is piddle pressure.

80 PSI is standard and over 80 PSI requires pressure regulation? 50
PSI is piddle pressure? Hmmm.

Codes dictate that the pressure cannot be below 40 PSI nor above 80
PSI. The factory setting for a pressure reducing valve is 50 PSI.
It's also interesting that your idea of standard pressure is above the
Watts adjustable range upper limit of 75 PSI. All of Watts standard
capacity reducing valves have the same upper limit and factory setting
for a reason.
http://www.watts.com/pro/_products_s...=64&parCat=285

R

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 24 May 2009 23:48:20 -0500, "Questor" wrote:

Just cut your 1 inch water main (or 3/4") and install a short length
of smaller (like 1/2" ) pipe - cheaper than a regulator, a whole lot
less trouble prone, and just about as effective.

Or do like I did and install a ball valve for a shut-off. If you think
the pressure is too high, half close the valve to reduce the flow
rate.

Just worried that if two or more faucets were opened a more reduced flow
would be noticed, whereas with a regulator it might not.

"Questor" wrote in message
...

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 24 May 2009 23:48:20 -0500, "Questor" wrote:

Just cut your 1 inch water main (or 3/4") and install a short length
of smaller (like 1/2" ) pipe - cheaper than a regulator, a whole lot
less trouble prone, and just about as effective.

Or do like I did and install a ball valve for a shut-off. If you think
the pressure is too high, half close the valve to reduce the flow
rate.

Just worried that if two or more faucets were opened a more reduced flow
would be noticed, whereas with a regulator it might not.

There is static and dynamic pressure also. Shutting down a valve or putting
in a smaller pipe will not reduce the static pressure. Do the job right and
use a regulator if you need one.

Finnally picked up the pressure meter and get 65psi the regulator I ordered
is factory set for 45, that's a 31% reduction. I don't know what that
translates to in water volume(gallons), but I'm going to go for it.

On May 28, 7:31*am, "Questor" wrote:
Finnally picked up the pressure meter and get 65psi the regulator I ordered
is factory set for 45, *that's a 31% reduction. *I don't know what that
translates to in water volume(gallons), but I'm going to go for it.

Once you have it installed you can adjust it to give you water
pressure at your sink and showers that keeps you happy. I'd probably
bump up the pressure to 50.

R

"Questor" wrote in message
...
Finnally picked up the pressure meter and get 65psi the regulator I
ordered is factory set for 45, that's a 31% reduction. I don't know what
that translates to in water volume(gallons), but I'm going to go for it.

Pressure does not translate to gallons.

Guess I need a lesson in pipe measurement. Got the regulator today and the
diameter of the input threads is 1.25" the diameter of the pipe I wanted to
connect it to is 1". The box says 1" and the regulator is stamped 1". It's
my fault probably due to my ignorance on the matter. I emailed the supplier
asking if I should request a RMA or get fittings.

"Questor" wrote in message
...
Guess I need a lesson in pipe measurement. Got the regulator today and
the diameter of the input threads is 1.25" the diameter of the pipe I
wanted to connect it to is 1". The box says 1" and the regulator is
stamped 1". It's my fault probably due to my ignorance on the matter. I
emailed the supplier asking if I should request a RMA or get fittings.

Reducer bushings will fix that. Any hardware store should have them.

"Questor" wrote in message
...
Guess I need a lesson in pipe measurement. Got the regulator today and
the diameter of the input threads is 1.25" the diameter of the pipe I
wanted to connect it to is 1". The box says 1" and the regulator is
stamped 1". It's my fault probably due to my ignorance on the matter. I
emailed the supplier asking if I should request a RMA or get fittings.
You can get reducer fittings. Be aware that threaded pipe is sized by the
inside so a "1 inch" pipe is about 1.25" on the outside. What you need is a
couple of 1" to 3/4" reducer bushings. If that makes the unit too long, try
to exchange it for a 3/4" regulator. Be careful not to get it installed
backwards by mistake.

Don Young

Finnaly after a little bout with the flu bug and mulling around about the
parts I needed, I installed the regulator and it's working great. I am
wondering on average about how long they last. Anyway here's a link about
thread sizes and the one for the place I bought the regulator from;

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pipethreadsizing.html

http://www.plumbingworld.com/pressur...ors_water.html

On Jun 11, 6:26*am, "Questor" wrote:
Finnaly after a little bout with the flu bug and mulling around about the
parts I needed, I installed the regulator and it's working great. * I am
wondering on average about how long they last. *Anyway here's a link about
thread sizes and the one for the place I bought the regulator from;

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pipethreadsizing.html

http://www.plumbingworld.com/pressur...ors_water.html


With a measured incoming water pressure of 65, I wouldn't have put
money into a regulator. That pressure is well within the normal,
acceptable range, so it's unclear what real problems you are having.

wrote:
On Jun 11, 6:26 am, "Questor" wrote:
Finnaly after a little bout with the flu bug and mulling around about the
parts I needed, I installed the regulator and it's working great. I am
wondering on average about how long they last. Anyway here's a link about
thread sizes and the one for the place I bought the regulator from;

http://www.plumbingsupply.com/pipethreadsizing.html

http://www.plumbingworld.com/pressur...ors_water.html


With a measured incoming water pressure of 65, I wouldn't have put
money into a regulator. That pressure is well within the normal,
acceptable range, so it's unclear what real problems you are having.

I've seen static water pressures that low when folks
were having problems. If you watch the pressure meter
long enough or have a meter that has a peak indicator,
you may see pressure spikes of over 100 psi. The most
static pressure I've ever seen on a city water system
was 195 psi and the pressure spikes were off the scale.

TDD

replying to clare, JMinSanDiego wrote:
reduce the flow rate.
That's going to work somewhat when there is flow but the narrowed pipe
section will transmit full street pressure if there's no flow.

Half-closing the valve also has no benefit when there is no flow. The
pressure in the building will not be magically reduced in the absence of flow.

--
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