I have planned a series of recessed lights in the kitchen, along the
cabinets about 36" from the wall (counter top would be 24" out) so it will
be 12" beyond the counter top.

One of them I centered on the stove to give some lights to the stove while
cooking, although the range hood has lights too.

I started to read and some literature says that lighting that is near a
range hood especially a stainless steel one is very bad because it cast the
light on the shiny surface, then create a glare effect to the person cooking
and it's a major no no.

Do some of you have lights over the stove and this is indeed a problem? Is
it better to move it to either side?

On the other side where the sink is (and where food prep happens) I am
putting in lights right at 24". I have no top cabinets there.

On the stove side I do have top cabinets sp right now I am planning 36" out.

Thanks,

MC

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have planned a series of recessed lights in the kitchen, along the
cabinets about 36" from the wall (counter top would be 24" out) so it will
be 12" beyond the counter top.

One of them I centered on the stove to give some lights to the stove while
cooking, although the range hood has lights too.

I started to read and some literature says that lighting that is near a
range hood especially a stainless steel one is very bad because it cast
the light on the shiny surface, then create a glare effect to the person
cooking and it's a major no no.

Do some of you have lights over the stove and this is indeed a problem?
Is it better to move it to either side?

On the other side where the sink is (and where food prep happens) I am
putting in lights right at 24". I have no top cabinets there.

On the stove side I do have top cabinets sp right now I am planning 36"
out.

Thanks,

MC
I try to space them so they're on both sides of the hood, not directly over
it, and at 25" out, so YOU, are not casting a shadow on the counter in
front of you

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have planned a series of recessed lights in the kitchen, along the
cabinets about 36" from the wall (counter top would be 24" out) so it will
be 12" beyond the counter top.

One of them I centered on the stove to give some lights to the stove
while cooking, although the range hood has lights too.

I started to read and some literature says that lighting that is near a
range hood especially a stainless steel one is very bad because it cast
the light on the shiny surface, then create a glare effect to the person
cooking and it's a major no no.

Do some of you have lights over the stove and this is indeed a problem?
Is it better to move it to either side?

On the other side where the sink is (and where food prep happens) I am
putting in lights right at 24". I have no top cabinets there.

On the stove side I do have top cabinets sp right now I am planning 36"
out.

Thanks,

MC
I try to space them so they're on both sides of the hood, not directly
over it, and at 25" out, so YOU, are not casting a shadow on the counter
in front of you


*I agree with RBM. If you are standing at the counter and the light is
coming from behind you your head and body will cast a shadow and block the
light. I use the countertop edge as my starting point for the center of the
lights. Sometimes I have to move out a little due to obstacles, but I have
found that position is beneficial for throwing light into the overhead
cabinets, onto the countertop and also onto the drawers and dishwasher.

RBM wrote:

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have planned a series of recessed lights in the kitchen, along the
cabinets about 36" from the wall (counter top would be 24" out) so it will
be 12" beyond the counter top.

One of them I centered on the stove to give some lights to the stove while
cooking, although the range hood has lights too.

I started to read and some literature says that lighting that is near a
range hood especially a stainless steel one is very bad because it cast
the light on the shiny surface, then create a glare effect to the person
cooking and it's a major no no.

Do some of you have lights over the stove and this is indeed a problem?
Is it better to move it to either side?

On the other side where the sink is (and where food prep happens) I am
putting in lights right at 24". I have no top cabinets there.

On the stove side I do have top cabinets sp right now I am planning 36"
out.

Thanks,

MC
I try to space them so they're on both sides of the hood, not directly over
it, and at 25" out, so YOU, are not casting a shadow on the counter in
front of you

Angle of incidence = angle of reflection. If the light is directly over,
you will only get glare if you are also directly over at which point
you're blocking the light anyway.

Splitting the light to either side reduced the head blocking the light
issue, however, when cooking 95% of the time you are looking from a foot
or two back.

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
I have planned a series of recessed lights in the kitchen, along the
cabinets about 36" from the wall (counter top would be 24" out) so it will
be 12" beyond the counter top.

One of them I centered on the stove to give some lights to the stove
while cooking, although the range hood has lights too.

I started to read and some literature says that lighting that is near a
range hood especially a stainless steel one is very bad because it cast
the light on the shiny surface, then create a glare effect to the person
cooking and it's a major no no.

Do some of you have lights over the stove and this is indeed a problem?
Is it better to move it to either side?

On the other side where the sink is (and where food prep happens) I am
putting in lights right at 24". I have no top cabinets there.

On the stove side I do have top cabinets sp right now I am planning 36"
out.

Thanks,

MC
I try to space them so they're on both sides of the hood, not directly
over it, and at 25" out, so YOU, are not casting a shadow on the counter
in front of you



Makes sense. I will pull it back to 24"-24" or so.

Thanks,

MC

By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end stores)
are closing and everything is 50% off.

I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of trims for the
6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has 18 of them each one was
marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that. So I got all 28 of those trims.
However I did not notice that some of them are different, turns out I ended
up with 11 of 30WAT and 17 of the 30WATH. They look the same except the
30WAT (62400 60332) the upper inside part of the cone is white, anf the
30WATH (62400 68832) the upper inside part of the cone is silver.

I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down lighting and it
seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's website I can use 100W A19
if I wanted to but I probably will use 75W instead.

I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH down from
below after the bulbs are inserted.

MC

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end stores)
are closing and everything is 50% off.

I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of trims for
the 6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has 18 of them each
one was marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that. So I got all 28 of those
trims. However I did not notice that some of them are different, turns out
I ended up with 11 of 30WAT and 17 of the 30WATH. They look the same
except the 30WAT (62400 60332) the upper inside part of the cone is white,
anf the 30WATH (62400 68832) the upper inside part of the cone is silver.

I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down lighting and
it seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's website I can use
100W A19 if I wanted to but I probably will use 75W instead.

I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH down from
below after the bulbs are inserted.

MC

That is an airtite trim. You remove the guts of the frame, leaving the
ceramic socket which clips into the end of the trim, with a gasket, keeping
it air tight. Be careful when installing them, the spring wires that hold
the trim into the frame, can be a bit tricky, and the rim of the trim bends
very easily

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end
stores) are closing and everything is 50% off.

I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of trims for
the 6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has 18 of them each
one was marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that. So I got all 28 of those
trims. However I did not notice that some of them are different, turns
out I ended up with 11 of 30WAT and 17 of the 30WATH. They look the same
except the 30WAT (62400 60332) the upper inside part of the cone is
white, anf the 30WATH (62400 68832) the upper inside part of the cone is
silver.

I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down lighting and
it seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's website I can use
100W A19 if I wanted to but I probably will use 75W instead.

I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH down from
below after the bulbs are inserted.

MC

That is an airtite trim. You remove the guts of the frame, leaving the
ceramic socket which clips into the end of the trim, with a gasket,
keeping it air tight. Be careful when installing them, the spring wires
that hold the trim into the frame, can be a bit tricky, and the rim of the
trim bends very easily




RBM what do you mean by removing the guts of the frame? You mean it does
not install by pushing it into the housing like the other trims?

Thanks,

MC

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end
stores) are closing and everything is 50% off.

I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of trims for
the 6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has 18 of them each
one was marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that. So I got all 28 of
those trims. However I did not notice that some of them are different,
turns out I ended up with 11 of 30WAT and 17 of the 30WATH. They look
the same except the 30WAT (62400 60332) the upper inside part of the
cone is white, anf the 30WATH (62400 68832) the upper inside part of the
cone is silver.

I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down lighting and
it seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's website I can use
100W A19 if I wanted to but I probably will use 75W instead.

I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH down from
below after the bulbs are inserted.

MC

That is an airtite trim. You remove the guts of the frame, leaving the
ceramic socket which clips into the end of the trim, with a gasket,
keeping it air tight. Be careful when installing them, the spring wires
that hold the trim into the frame, can be a bit tricky, and the rim of
the trim bends very easily




RBM what do you mean by removing the guts of the frame? You mean it does
not install by pushing it into the housing like the other trims?

Thanks,

MC

Correct, that trim has a hole at the narrow end, and the socket mounts
directly to it. Currently, the socket is mounted on a flat plate inside the
can. You remove the wing nut on the side of the can that holds that plate,
pull it down, out of the can, and pinch the two spring steel retainers on
the socket to remove it from the plate. Discard the plate and mount the
socket to the trim.

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end
stores) are closing and everything is 50% off.

I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of trims for
the 6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has 18 of them
each one was marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that. So I got all 28
of those trims. However I did not notice that some of them are
different, turns out I ended up with 11 of 30WAT and 17 of the 30WATH.
They look the same except the 30WAT (62400 60332) the upper inside part
of the cone is white, anf the 30WATH (62400 68832) the upper inside
part of the cone is silver.

I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down lighting
and it seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's website I can
use 100W A19 if I wanted to but I probably will use 75W instead.

I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH down
from below after the bulbs are inserted.

MC

That is an airtite trim. You remove the guts of the frame, leaving the
ceramic socket which clips into the end of the trim, with a gasket,
keeping it air tight. Be careful when installing them, the spring wires
that hold the trim into the frame, can be a bit tricky, and the rim of
the trim bends very easily




RBM what do you mean by removing the guts of the frame? You mean it does
not install by pushing it into the housing like the other trims?

Thanks,

MC

Correct, that trim has a hole at the narrow end, and the socket mounts
directly to it. Currently, the socket is mounted on a flat plate inside
the can. You remove the wing nut on the side of the can that holds that
plate, pull it down, out of the can, and pinch the two spring steel
retainers on the socket to remove it from the plate. Discard the plate and
mount the socket to the trim.




Oh I see, and by doing that, I lose the adjustable aspect of the H7T socket.
I didn't think of that. Actually now that I look closer at it, I think it
would be very difficult to mount this trim to the housing could be very
tricky. May be I should have gotten the 410W instead even if this one is
heavily discounted.

MC

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end
stores) are closing and everything is 50% off.

I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of trims
for the 6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has 18 of
them each one was marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that. So I got
all 28 of those trims. However I did not notice that some of them are
different, turns out I ended up with 11 of 30WAT and 17 of the 30WATH.
They look the same except the 30WAT (62400 60332) the upper inside
part of the cone is white, anf the 30WATH (62400 68832) the upper
inside part of the cone is silver.

I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down lighting
and it seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's website I can
use 100W A19 if I wanted to but I probably will use 75W instead.

I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH down
from below after the bulbs are inserted.

MC

That is an airtite trim. You remove the guts of the frame, leaving the
ceramic socket which clips into the end of the trim, with a gasket,
keeping it air tight. Be careful when installing them, the spring wires
that hold the trim into the frame, can be a bit tricky, and the rim of
the trim bends very easily




RBM what do you mean by removing the guts of the frame? You mean it
does not install by pushing it into the housing like the other trims?

Thanks,

MC

Correct, that trim has a hole at the narrow end, and the socket mounts
directly to it. Currently, the socket is mounted on a flat plate inside
the can. You remove the wing nut on the side of the can that holds that
plate, pull it down, out of the can, and pinch the two spring steel
retainers on the socket to remove it from the plate. Discard the plate
and mount the socket to the trim.




Oh I see, and by doing that, I lose the adjustable aspect of the H7T
socket. I didn't think of that. Actually now that I look closer at it, I
think it would be very difficult to mount this trim to the housing could
be very tricky. May be I should have gotten the 410W instead even if this
one is heavily discounted.

MC

When you use a 30wat trim you do forfeit the adjustments. It's also
designed for an R-30 lamp, but the physical size of the opening is about
the same as on a 410 trim , which used an R-40 , which fills the opening
better

By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end
stores) are closing and everything is 50% off.

I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of trims
for the 6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has 18 of
them each one was marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that. So I got
all 28 of those trims. However I did not notice that some of them are
different, turns out I ended up with 11 of 30WAT and 17 of the 30WATH.
They look the same except the 30WAT (62400 60332) the upper inside
part of the cone is white, anf the 30WATH (62400 68832) the upper
inside part of the cone is silver.

I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down lighting
and it seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's website I can
use 100W A19 if I wanted to but I probably will use 75W instead.

I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH down
from below after the bulbs are inserted.

MC

That is an airtite trim. You remove the guts of the frame, leaving the
ceramic socket which clips into the end of the trim, with a gasket,
keeping it air tight. Be careful when installing them, the spring wires
that hold the trim into the frame, can be a bit tricky, and the rim of
the trim bends very easily




RBM what do you mean by removing the guts of the frame? You mean it
does not install by pushing it into the housing like the other trims?

Thanks,

MC

Correct, that trim has a hole at the narrow end, and the socket mounts
directly to it. Currently, the socket is mounted on a flat plate inside
the can. You remove the wing nut on the side of the can that holds that
plate, pull it down, out of the can, and pinch the two spring steel
retainers on the socket to remove it from the plate. Discard the plate
and mount the socket to the trim.




Oh I see, and by doing that, I lose the adjustable aspect of the H7T
socket. I didn't think of that. Actually now that I look closer at it, I
think it would be very difficult to mount this trim to the housing could
be very tricky. May be I should have gotten the 410W instead even if this
one is heavily discounted.


*If you want to save some money and like the 410 trim, Halo has a substitute
made for contractors. They cost around 2 bucks for the H7 size. However
they are only available at electrical supply companies. Part #Halo
ERT709WHT. For the H99 you can try the ERT413WHT

"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...
By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end
stores) are closing and everything is 50% off.

I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of trims
for the 6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has 18 of
them each one was marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that. So I got
all 28 of those trims. However I did not notice that some of them are
different, turns out I ended up with 11 of 30WAT and 17 of the
30WATH. They look the same except the 30WAT (62400 60332) the upper
inside part of the cone is white, anf the 30WATH (62400 68832) the
upper inside part of the cone is silver.

I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down lighting
and it seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's website I
can use 100W A19 if I wanted to but I probably will use 75W instead.

I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH down
from below after the bulbs are inserted.

MC

That is an airtite trim. You remove the guts of the frame, leaving the
ceramic socket which clips into the end of the trim, with a gasket,
keeping it air tight. Be careful when installing them, the spring
wires that hold the trim into the frame, can be a bit tricky, and the
rim of the trim bends very easily




RBM what do you mean by removing the guts of the frame? You mean it
does not install by pushing it into the housing like the other trims?

Thanks,

MC

Correct, that trim has a hole at the narrow end, and the socket mounts
directly to it. Currently, the socket is mounted on a flat plate inside
the can. You remove the wing nut on the side of the can that holds that
plate, pull it down, out of the can, and pinch the two spring steel
retainers on the socket to remove it from the plate. Discard the plate
and mount the socket to the trim.




Oh I see, and by doing that, I lose the adjustable aspect of the H7T
socket. I didn't think of that. Actually now that I look closer at it, I
think it would be very difficult to mount this trim to the housing could
be very tricky. May be I should have gotten the 410W instead even if
this one is heavily discounted.


*If you want to save some money and like the 410 trim, Halo has a
substitute made for contractors. They cost around 2 bucks for the H7
size. However they are only available at electrical supply companies.
Part #Halo ERT709WHT. For the H99 you can try the ERT413WHT

John:

I did not know that there is a contractor version of these. Is there a
substantial difference between the contractor version and consumer version?

I just can't believe how expensive these trims are. Is there a similar
thing for Juno? I am looking for trim 435B-WH that does not cost part of my
legs LOL.

Thanks,

MC

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end
stores) are closing and everything is 50% off.

I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of trims
for the 6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has 18 of
them each one was marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that. So I got
all 28 of those trims. However I did not notice that some of them are
different, turns out I ended up with 11 of 30WAT and 17 of the
30WATH. They look the same except the 30WAT (62400 60332) the upper
inside part of the cone is white, anf the 30WATH (62400 68832) the
upper inside part of the cone is silver.

I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down lighting
and it seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's website I
can use 100W A19 if I wanted to but I probably will use 75W instead.

I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH down
from below after the bulbs are inserted.

MC

That is an airtite trim. You remove the guts of the frame, leaving the
ceramic socket which clips into the end of the trim, with a gasket,
keeping it air tight. Be careful when installing them, the spring
wires that hold the trim into the frame, can be a bit tricky, and the
rim of the trim bends very easily




RBM what do you mean by removing the guts of the frame? You mean it
does not install by pushing it into the housing like the other trims?

Thanks,

MC

Correct, that trim has a hole at the narrow end, and the socket mounts
directly to it. Currently, the socket is mounted on a flat plate inside
the can. You remove the wing nut on the side of the can that holds that
plate, pull it down, out of the can, and pinch the two spring steel
retainers on the socket to remove it from the plate. Discard the plate
and mount the socket to the trim.




Oh I see, and by doing that, I lose the adjustable aspect of the H7T
socket. I didn't think of that. Actually now that I look closer at it, I
think it would be very difficult to mount this trim to the housing could
be very tricky. May be I should have gotten the 410W instead even if
this one is heavily discounted.

MC

When you use a 30wat trim you do forfeit the adjustments. It's also
designed for an R-30 lamp, but the physical size of the opening is about
the same as on a 410 trim , which used an R-40 , which fills the opening
better


RBM, what is the real benefit for an airtight trim?

Is it more for retrofit application? I mean, the existing housing is
non-airtight so this corrects it? In my case since I am putting up new
housing, I could have gotten a H7ICAT and be done with that and still can us
any trim I wanted...I think I probably messed up by getting this trim. Have
to do some thinking.now that I got about 30 of these trims at a
non-returnable non-refunable store closing discount.

MC

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...

"RBM" wrote in message
...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
...
By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end
stores) are closing and everything is 50% off.

I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of trims
for the 6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has 18 of
them each one was marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that. So I got
all 28 of those trims. However I did not notice that some of them
are different, turns out I ended up with 11 of 30WAT and 17 of the
30WATH. They look the same except the 30WAT (62400 60332) the upper
inside part of the cone is white, anf the 30WATH (62400 68832) the
upper inside part of the cone is silver.

I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down lighting
and it seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's website I
can use 100W A19 if I wanted to but I probably will use 75W instead.

I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH down
from below after the bulbs are inserted.

MC

That is an airtite trim. You remove the guts of the frame, leaving
the ceramic socket which clips into the end of the trim, with a
gasket, keeping it air tight. Be careful when installing them, the
spring wires that hold the trim into the frame, can be a bit tricky,
and the rim of the trim bends very easily




RBM what do you mean by removing the guts of the frame? You mean it
does not install by pushing it into the housing like the other trims?

Thanks,

MC

Correct, that trim has a hole at the narrow end, and the socket mounts
directly to it. Currently, the socket is mounted on a flat plate
inside the can. You remove the wing nut on the side of the can that
holds that plate, pull it down, out of the can, and pinch the two
spring steel retainers on the socket to remove it from the plate.
Discard the plate and mount the socket to the trim.




Oh I see, and by doing that, I lose the adjustable aspect of the H7T
socket. I didn't think of that. Actually now that I look closer at it,
I think it would be very difficult to mount this trim to the housing
could be very tricky. May be I should have gotten the 410W instead even
if this one is heavily discounted.

MC

When you use a 30wat trim you do forfeit the adjustments. It's also
designed for an R-30 lamp, but the physical size of the opening is about
the same as on a 410 trim , which used an R-40 , which fills the opening
better


RBM, what is the real benefit for an airtight trim?

Is it more for retrofit application? I mean, the existing housing is
non-airtight so this corrects it? In my case since I am putting up new
housing, I could have gotten a H7ICAT and be done with that and still can
us any trim I wanted...I think I probably messed up by getting this trim.
Have to do some thinking.now that I got about 30 of these trims at a
non-returnable non-refunable store closing discount.

MC
The advantage is that warm air can't escape through the fixture, or cold air
from above the fixture can't blow down through it, neither should be a
concern for you. Here in NY, they are a requirement in an insulated ceiling.
Believe me, I don't use them where I don't have to. I'd try to return them,
and if not sell them on ebay

On Mar 21, 12:31*pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
I have planned a series of recessed lights in the kitchen, along the
cabinets about 36" from the wall (counter top would be 24" out) so it will
be 12" beyond the counter top.

One of them I centered on the stove to give some lights to the stove while
cooking, although the range hood has lights too.

I started to read and some literature says that lighting that is near a
range hood especially a stainless steel one is very bad because it cast the
light on the shiny surface, then create a glare effect to the person cooking
and it's a major no no.

Do some of you have lights over the stove and this is indeed a problem? *Is
it better to move it to either side?

On the other side where the sink is (and where food prep happens) *I am
putting in lights right at 24". *I have no top cabinets there.

On the stove side I do have top cabinets sp right now I am planning 36" out.

Thanks,

MC

Why waste your time and money on lighting you don't need? A range hood
will more than adequately illuminate the stove, according to the chef
at our house. Of course, if you're competing with the neighbors for
the absolute maximum can lights in a dwelling, then go for it, but
don't bother to wire them to the power source.
Consider that one day soon LED panels will be all the rage and can
lights will join the ugly overpriced granite counter tops in the
landfills. Such is the price of being hip...

Joe

By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end
stores) are closing and everything is 50% off.

I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of trims
for the 6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has 18 of
them each one was marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that. So I got
all 28 of those trims. However I did not notice that some of them
are different, turns out I ended up with 11 of 30WAT and 17 of the
30WATH. They look the same except the 30WAT (62400 60332) the upper
inside part of the cone is white, anf the 30WATH (62400 68832) the
upper inside part of the cone is silver.

I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down
lighting and it seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's
website I can use 100W A19 if I wanted to but I probably will use
75W instead.

I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH down
from below after the bulbs are inserted.

MC

That is an airtite trim. You remove the guts of the frame, leaving
the ceramic socket which clips into the end of the trim, with a
gasket, keeping it air tight. Be careful when installing them, the
spring wires that hold the trim into the frame, can be a bit tricky,
and the rim of the trim bends very easily




RBM what do you mean by removing the guts of the frame? You mean it
does not install by pushing it into the housing like the other trims?

Thanks,

MC

Correct, that trim has a hole at the narrow end, and the socket mounts
directly to it. Currently, the socket is mounted on a flat plate
inside the can. You remove the wing nut on the side of the can that
holds that plate, pull it down, out of the can, and pinch the two
spring steel retainers on the socket to remove it from the plate.
Discard the plate and mount the socket to the trim.




Oh I see, and by doing that, I lose the adjustable aspect of the H7T
socket. I didn't think of that. Actually now that I look closer at it,
I think it would be very difficult to mount this trim to the housing
could be very tricky. May be I should have gotten the 410W instead
even if this one is heavily discounted.

MC

When you use a 30wat trim you do forfeit the adjustments. It's also
designed for an R-30 lamp, but the physical size of the opening is about
the same as on a 410 trim , which used an R-40 , which fills the opening
better


RBM, what is the real benefit for an airtight trim?

Is it more for retrofit application? I mean, the existing housing is
non-airtight so this corrects it? In my case since I am putting up new
housing, I could have gotten a H7ICAT and be done with that and still can
us any trim I wanted...I think I probably messed up by getting this trim.
Have to do some thinking.now that I got about 30 of these trims at a
non-returnable non-refunable store closing discount.

MC
The advantage is that warm air can't escape through the fixture, or cold
air from above the fixture can't blow down through it, neither should be a
concern for you. Here in NY, they are a requirement in an insulated
ceiling. Believe me, I don't use them where I don't have to. I'd try to
return them, and if not sell them on ebay

*Or CraigsList

By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end
stores) are closing and everything is 50% off.

I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of trims
for the 6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has 18 of
them each one was marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that. So I got
all 28 of those trims. However I did not notice that some of them
are different, turns out I ended up with 11 of 30WAT and 17 of the
30WATH. They look the same except the 30WAT (62400 60332) the upper
inside part of the cone is white, anf the 30WATH (62400 68832) the
upper inside part of the cone is silver.

I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down lighting
and it seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's website I
can use 100W A19 if I wanted to but I probably will use 75W instead.

I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH down
from below after the bulbs are inserted.

MC

That is an airtite trim. You remove the guts of the frame, leaving
the ceramic socket which clips into the end of the trim, with a
gasket, keeping it air tight. Be careful when installing them, the
spring wires that hold the trim into the frame, can be a bit tricky,
and the rim of the trim bends very easily




RBM what do you mean by removing the guts of the frame? You mean it
does not install by pushing it into the housing like the other trims?

Thanks,

MC

Correct, that trim has a hole at the narrow end, and the socket mounts
directly to it. Currently, the socket is mounted on a flat plate
inside the can. You remove the wing nut on the side of the can that
holds that plate, pull it down, out of the can, and pinch the two
spring steel retainers on the socket to remove it from the plate.
Discard the plate and mount the socket to the trim.




Oh I see, and by doing that, I lose the adjustable aspect of the H7T
socket. I didn't think of that. Actually now that I look closer at it,
I think it would be very difficult to mount this trim to the housing
could be very tricky. May be I should have gotten the 410W instead even
if this one is heavily discounted.


*If you want to save some money and like the 410 trim, Halo has a
substitute made for contractors. They cost around 2 bucks for the H7
size. However they are only available at electrical supply companies.
Part #Halo ERT709WHT. For the H99 you can try the ERT413WHT

John:

I did not know that there is a contractor version of these. Is there a
substantial difference between the contractor version and consumer
version?

I just can't believe how expensive these trims are. Is there a similar
thing for Juno? I am looking for trim 435B-WH that does not cost part of
my legs LOL.


*I am not familiar with Juno and don't have one of their catalogs. If the
dimensions are the same you could probably get a Halo trim to work.

The contractor trims recessed baffle are made of metal whereas the consumer
are made of plastic. They are not exactly identical, but once they are in
the ceiling Halo's own mother would not be able to tell the difference. :-)

I went to an Expo store near me today just see what they had. Everything
was 40-60% off. The parking lot was full. Customers were buying overpriced
light fixtures right off the ceiling. Even with the discount some things
still seemed expensive. I saw some nice replacement cushions for my outdoor
set. The sale price for a regular chair cushion was around $75.00. The
chaise cushions were $89.00 originally $149.00. I don't think my chairs
with cushions cost that much new.

"John Grabowski" wrote in message
...

By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end
stores) are closing and everything is 50% off.

I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of trims
for the 6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has 18 of
them each one was marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that. So I got
all 28 of those trims. However I did not notice that some of them
are different, turns out I ended up with 11 of 30WAT and 17 of the
30WATH. They look the same except the 30WAT (62400 60332) the upper
inside part of the cone is white, anf the 30WATH (62400 68832) the
upper inside part of the cone is silver.

I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down
lighting and it seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's
website I can use 100W A19 if I wanted to but I probably will use
75W instead.

I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH down
from below after the bulbs are inserted.

MC

That is an airtite trim. You remove the guts of the frame, leaving
the ceramic socket which clips into the end of the trim, with a
gasket, keeping it air tight. Be careful when installing them, the
spring wires that hold the trim into the frame, can be a bit tricky,
and the rim of the trim bends very easily




RBM what do you mean by removing the guts of the frame? You mean it
does not install by pushing it into the housing like the other trims?

Thanks,

MC

Correct, that trim has a hole at the narrow end, and the socket mounts
directly to it. Currently, the socket is mounted on a flat plate
inside the can. You remove the wing nut on the side of the can that
holds that plate, pull it down, out of the can, and pinch the two
spring steel retainers on the socket to remove it from the plate.
Discard the plate and mount the socket to the trim.




Oh I see, and by doing that, I lose the adjustable aspect of the H7T
socket. I didn't think of that. Actually now that I look closer at it,
I think it would be very difficult to mount this trim to the housing
could be very tricky. May be I should have gotten the 410W instead
even if this one is heavily discounted.


*If you want to save some money and like the 410 trim, Halo has a
substitute made for contractors. They cost around 2 bucks for the H7
size. However they are only available at electrical supply companies.
Part #Halo ERT709WHT. For the H99 you can try the ERT413WHT

John:

I did not know that there is a contractor version of these. Is there a
substantial difference between the contractor version and consumer
version?

I just can't believe how expensive these trims are. Is there a similar
thing for Juno? I am looking for trim 435B-WH that does not cost part of
my legs LOL.


*I am not familiar with Juno and don't have one of their catalogs. If the
dimensions are the same you could probably get a Halo trim to work.

The contractor trims recessed baffle are made of metal whereas the
consumer are made of plastic. They are not exactly identical, but once
they are in the ceiling Halo's own mother would not be able to tell the
difference. :-)

I went to an Expo store near me today just see what they had. Everything
was 40-60% off. The parking lot was full. Customers were buying
overpriced light fixtures right off the ceiling. Even with the discount
some things still seemed expensive. I saw some nice replacement cushions
for my outdoor set. The sale price for a regular chair cushion was around
$75.00. The chaise cushions were $89.00 originally $149.00. I don't
think my chairs with cushions cost that much new.
Given a choice between metal baffle or plastic baffle I prefer metal. If
it's cheaper that's even better. I was doing some search on the net and a
few websites said "Cooper Lighting P31WW" is a replacement for Halo 410W?
Are they interchangeable? Seems tje P31WW is also priced relatively lower.

Thanks,

MC

By the way down here the Expo Design Center (Home Depot's high end
stores) are closing and everything is 50% off.

I was there today and came across a return item, two boxes of
trims for the 6" housings. Those are Halo 30WAT, and each box has
18 of them each one was marked down to $10.00 and 50% off that.
So I got all 28 of those trims. However I did not notice that some
of them are different, turns out I ended up with 11 of 30WAT and
17 of the 30WATH. They look the same except the 30WAT (62400
60332) the upper inside part of the cone is white, anf the 30WATH
(62400 68832) the upper inside part of the cone is silver.

I took your advice and used H7T housing for most of my down
lighting and it seems the 30WAT(H) will work, according to Halo's
website I can use 100W A19 if I wanted to but I probably will use
75W instead.

I wonder if I can tell the difference between 30WAT and 30WATH
down from below after the bulbs are inserted.

MC

That is an airtite trim. You remove the guts of the frame, leaving
the ceramic socket which clips into the end of the trim, with a
gasket, keeping it air tight. Be careful when installing them, the
spring wires that hold the trim into the frame, can be a bit
tricky, and the rim of the trim bends very easily




RBM what do you mean by removing the guts of the frame? You mean it
does not install by pushing it into the housing like the other
trims?

Thanks,

MC

Correct, that trim has a hole at the narrow end, and the socket
mounts directly to it. Currently, the socket is mounted on a flat
plate inside the can. You remove the wing nut on the side of the can
that holds that plate, pull it down, out of the can, and pinch the
two spring steel retainers on the socket to remove it from the plate.
Discard the plate and mount the socket to the trim.




Oh I see, and by doing that, I lose the adjustable aspect of the H7T
socket. I didn't think of that. Actually now that I look closer at
it, I think it would be very difficult to mount this trim to the
housing could be very tricky. May be I should have gotten the 410W
instead even if this one is heavily discounted.


*If you want to save some money and like the 410 trim, Halo has a
substitute made for contractors. They cost around 2 bucks for the H7
size. However they are only available at electrical supply companies.
Part #Halo ERT709WHT. For the H99 you can try the ERT413WHT

John:

I did not know that there is a contractor version of these. Is there a
substantial difference between the contractor version and consumer
version?

I just can't believe how expensive these trims are. Is there a similar
thing for Juno? I am looking for trim 435B-WH that does not cost part
of my legs LOL.


*I am not familiar with Juno and don't have one of their catalogs. If
the dimensions are the same you could probably get a Halo trim to work.

The contractor trims recessed baffle are made of metal whereas the
consumer are made of plastic. They are not exactly identical, but once
they are in the ceiling Halo's own mother would not be able to tell the
difference. :-)

I went to an Expo store near me today just see what they had. Everything
was 40-60% off. The parking lot was full. Customers were buying
overpriced light fixtures right off the ceiling. Even with the discount
some things still seemed expensive. I saw some nice replacement cushions
for my outdoor set. The sale price for a regular chair cushion was
around $75.00. The chaise cushions were $89.00 originally $149.00. I
don't think my chairs with cushions cost that much new.
Given a choice between metal baffle or plastic baffle I prefer metal. If
it's cheaper that's even better. I was doing some search on the net and a
few websites said "Cooper Lighting P31WW" is a replacement for Halo 410W?
Are they interchangeable? Seems tje P31WW is also priced relatively
lower.


*I am not familiar with that particular trim, but Cooper owns the Halo brand
so it will probably work.