Is there such a thing as an 1/2" elbow, one end of it is a brass male
threaded adaptor, the other end is a regular slip CPVC socket?

I can make one myself with a CPVC male adapter then glue on a 90 degree
elbow, but I am really struggling for room and clearance for this valve and
I need it to be as tight as it can be.

The Sharkbite elbow with a threaded end does the job, but I prefer for it to
be glued instead of compression if I can avoid it. I searched and searched
and could not find any. There is a drop ear 90 with a female brass end, and
a CPVC socket on the other end. I need to male version of this, does it
even exist?

Thanks,

MC

Is there such a thing as an 1/2" elbow, one end of it is a brass male
threaded adaptor, the other end is a regular slip CPVC socket?
I can make one myself with a CPVC male adapter then glue on a 90
degree elbow, but I am really struggling for room and clearance for
this valve and I need it to be as tight as it can be.

What is this being used for?

You could use a drop-ear "transition" elbow with a brass pipe nipple to
convert the gender to male. It's a brass drop ear elbow with a CPVC fitting
you can glue into.

If you don't need the drop ear, another option might be a brass "Street
90" elbow with a male CPVC adapter threaded in. Or just use a regular brass
elbow with a brass pipe nipple to change the gender.

Lots of ways to do it...

Anthony

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
Is there such a thing as an 1/2" elbow, one end of it is a brass male
threaded adaptor, the other end is a regular slip CPVC socket?
I can make one myself with a CPVC male adapter then glue on a 90
degree elbow, but I am really struggling for room and clearance for
this valve and I need it to be as tight as it can be.

What is this being used for?

You could use a drop-ear "transition" elbow with a brass pipe nipple to
convert the gender to male. It's a brass drop ear elbow with a CPVC
fitting
you can glue into.

If you don't need the drop ear, another option might be a brass "Street
90" elbow with a male CPVC adapter threaded in. Or just use a regular
brass
elbow with a brass pipe nipple to change the gender.

Lots of ways to do it...

Anthony

Yes there are lots of way to do it with two pieces. I need to do it in one
piece because I am running out of room in the wall on either side, so I need
a one piece with as little protrusion as possible. So far the sharkbite
elbow with a push fitting on one side and a threaded male FPT seems my best
option, I just wish I could glue instead of a compression joint. I have
looked at the normal male adaptor and even with a street elbow it's still
about 3/4" longer than the sharkbite elbow version and on both sides it adds
to 1-1/2" of clearance I have to cut solid concrete out of that I rather
avoid.

Yes there are lots of way to do it with two pieces. I need to do it
in one piece because I am running out of room in the wall on either
side, so I need a one piece with as little protrusion as possible. So
far the sharkbite elbow with a push fitting on one side and a threaded
male FPT seems my best option, I just wish I could glue instead of a
compression joint. I have looked at the normal male adaptor and even
with a street elbow it's still about 3/4" longer than the sharkbite
elbow version and on both sides it adds to 1-1/2" of clearance I have
to cut solid concrete out of that I rather avoid.

Could you tell us the situation you are trying to solve? I'm having a hard
time picturing a simple 90 degree elbow taking too much room.

I'm not a big fan of compression fittings, and certainly wouldn't use one
unless it would always be accessable. But that's just me.

If you must cut into the concrete, a few holes with a masonry bit and a
chisel should make quick work of that. Or grab a small grinder and grind
away what you need to.

Anthony

"HerHusband" wrote in message
...
Yes there are lots of way to do it with two pieces. I need to do it
in one piece because I am running out of room in the wall on either
side, so I need a one piece with as little protrusion as possible. So
far the sharkbite elbow with a push fitting on one side and a threaded
male FPT seems my best option, I just wish I could glue instead of a
compression joint. I have looked at the normal male adaptor and even
with a street elbow it's still about 3/4" longer than the sharkbite
elbow version and on both sides it adds to 1-1/2" of clearance I have
to cut solid concrete out of that I rather avoid.

Could you tell us the situation you are trying to solve? I'm having a hard
time picturing a simple 90 degree elbow taking too much room.

I'm not a big fan of compression fittings, and certainly wouldn't use one
unless it would always be accessable. But that's just me.

If you must cut into the concrete, a few holes with a masonry bit and a
chisel should make quick work of that. Or grab a small grinder and grind
away what you need to.

Anthony

I am installing an outdoor shower on a concrete wall. For this reason the
shower valve needs to be flushed with the concrete wall surface. I have
chiseled from the inside to hollow out the concrete block wall by
eliminating the web in the middle. This space is right big enough for the
valve which is about 5.5" in diameter. Into the valve I need to thread in
two supply lines and 1 outflow line. The supply lines come up along the
inside wall and have to somehow make their way to the inlets of that valve
on both sides. The wall cavity I have choseled out so far will be barely
wide enough for the valve itself plus two elbows one on each side will give
it a snug fit.

I can chisel out more space with my hammer drill but the problem is the
valve is on the outside of the wall, I am hollowing out from the inside (the
outside is already neatly cut to the shape of the valve), In order for me to
make additional room on either side my chiseling has to be like 7.5" deep.
It is difficult to do so unless I want to break it all the way to the middle
web of the blocks on either side.

Thanks.

MC,

I am installing an outdoor shower on a concrete wall. For this reason
the shower valve needs to be flushed with the concrete wall surface.
I have chiseled from the inside to hollow out the concrete block wall
by eliminating the web in the middle. This space is right big enough
for the valve which is about 5.5" in diameter. Into the valve I need
to thread in two supply lines and 1 outflow line. The supply lines
come up along the inside wall and have to somehow make their way to
the inlets of that valve on both sides. The wall cavity I have
choseled out so far will be barely wide enough for the valve itself
plus two elbows one on each side will give it a snug fit.
I can chisel out more space with my hammer drill but the problem is
the valve is on the outside of the wall, I am hollowing out from the
inside (the outside is already neatly cut to the shape of the valve),
In order for me to make additional room on either side my chiseling
has to be like 7.5" deep. It is difficult to do so unless I want to
break it all the way to the middle web of the blocks on either side.

OK, that makes sense...

Just a thought, rather than trying to fit the valve and both elbows into a
single block space, could you drill a small hole into the next block space
and run a short stub through the web and put an elbow in the other block
space? For that matter, you could run stubs to each adjoining web so each
elbow is in it's own block space. I don't know if that would be any easier,
but it may give you a little more working room.

Of course, if you're in a cold climate, you'll want to insulate the block
spaces when you're done.

Good luck,

Anthony