I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?

jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?

Minimal amount of noise reduction

--

"jim evans" wrote in message
...
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?

probably for noise reduction

On Wed, 8 Oct 2008 18:27:53 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"jim evans" wrote in message
.. .
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?

probably for noise reduction

Any ideas how to get the insulation out without removing the
sheetrock?

jim evans wrote:

On Wed, 8 Oct 2008 18:27:53 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"jim evans" wrote in message
.. .
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?

probably for noise reduction

Any ideas how to get the insulation out without removing the
sheetrock?

just use a fish tape to pull the wires through.

On Oct 8, 6:37*pm, "Pete C." wrote:
jim evans wrote:

On Wed, 8 Oct 2008 18:27:53 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"jim evans" wrote in message
.. .
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. *To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. *When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. *It's an
inside wall. *The master bath is on the other side of the wall. *Why
is an inside wall insulated?

probably for noise reduction

Any ideas how to get the insulation out without removing the
sheetrock?

just use a fish tape to pull the wires through.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Use the fishsnake several times with a hook on it, that will clear out
most of the insulation.

On Wed, 08 Oct 2008 17:16:07 -0500, jim evans
wrote:

I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?


Most likely it is for noise reduction.

jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?

Because it would look silly stapled to the outside?

jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?

Sound, some, but also to keep the bathroom warm and cozy while you are
drying off, and to reduce the condensation you would otherwise get on
cool walls while the exhaust fan plays catch-up. Just like kids steaming
up car windows on a crisp fall evening, when you take a hot shower on a
cool morning, you can have condensation running down the walls. (a big
promoter of mold...)

Like the others said, no need to remove the insulation, just feed the
wires, or maybe a smurf tube, through there with a snake.

--
aem sends...

"jim evans" wrote in message
...
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?



This is what you need, but for $125 for what's likely a one-use project it's
too expensive. But for those of us who run wires in walls at work, it's
great!

The roller is a magnet, and you attach some metal thing to a beaded chain &
drop it in the hole, pulling it down with the magnet rolling along the
outside of the wall.

http://www.specialized.net/ecommerce...Tool-Magnepull

"Bob M." wrote in message
news
"jim evans" wrote in message
...
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?



This is what you need, but for $125 for what's likely a one-use project
it's too expensive. But for those of us who run wires in walls at work,
it's great!

The roller is a magnet, and you attach some metal thing to a beaded chain
& drop it in the hole, pulling it down with the magnet rolling along the
outside of the wall.

http://www.specialized.net/ecommerce...Tool-Magnepull


whoops, just the opposite. The magnet is inside the wall, the roller thing
is normal steel.

jim evans wrote in
:

I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?

As mentioned repeatedly, noise reduction.

Can't remember the source so I don't know how effective but I read/heard
something a couple of decades ago that like where you have a drain pipe
coming through an interior wall from upper floor, putting empty egg cartons
all around it before closing kills the noise. The material + the shape of
the egg slots was they key.

Insulation probably works just as well and probably better.

On Wed, 08 Oct 2008 17:29:56 -0500, jim evans
wrote:

On Wed, 8 Oct 2008 18:27:53 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


"jim evans" wrote in message
. ..
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?

probably for noise reduction

Any ideas how to get the insulation out without removing the
sheetrock?
DON'T. Use a fish tape to pull the wire in. The fish tape can be run
up between the insulation and the drywall.
** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

On Wed, 08 Oct 2008 17:16:07 -0500, jim evans wrote:

I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?


I hung drywall in about 25-30 new homes last year. All of them had
insulation in the inside walls in the bathrooms and the laundry rooms.
Noise reduction.

On Oct 8, 6:16*pm, jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. *To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. *When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. *It's an
inside wall. *The master bath is on the other side of the wall. *Why
is an inside wall insulated?

Noise reduction.

My previous home had insulation in every interior wall and was MUCH
quieter than my current home with no interior wall insulation.

On Oct 8, 6:29*pm, jim evans wrote:
On Wed, 8 Oct 2008 18:27:53 -0400, "RBM" wrote:

"jim evans" wrote in message
.. .
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. *To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. *When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. *It's an
inside wall. *The master bath is on the other side of the wall. *Why
is an inside wall insulated?

probably for noise reduction

Any ideas how to get the insulation out without removing the
sheetrock?

Why remove the insulation?

On Oct 8, 6:24*pm, dpb wrote:
jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. *To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. *When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. *It's an
inside wall. *The master bath is on the other side of the wall. *Why
is an inside wall insulated?

Minimal amount of noise reduction

--

A lot of noise reduction.

"Ron" wrote in message
...
On Oct 8, 6:16 pm, jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?

Noise reduction.

My previous home had insulation in every interior wall and was MUCH
quieter than my current home with no interior wall insulation.


If you have any pipes in that wall, be thankful the builder put the
insulation there otherwise everytime someone flushed or ran the water you'd
hear it loudly in the adjoining room.

Ron wrote:
On Oct 8, 6:24 pm, dpb wrote:
jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?
Minimal amount of noise reduction

--

A lot of noise reduction.

Not really only from fiberglass insulation unless also did something
about separating studs, etc., ...

--

On Wed, 08 Oct 2008 17:37:15 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:

just use a fish tape to pull the wires through.

I'm a little uncertain about that. I tried to push a flat plumbers
snake (which I've used to fish wires before) up the wall and couldn't
get it to go. It was like pushing into a pillow. And there's a
fairly large bundle of cables that have to go through the wall.
Here's a photo of about 2/3rds the bundle that has to be pushed
through this mush --
http://img395.imageshack.us/my.php?i...ebundlece4.jpg

wrote:
On Thu, 09 Oct 2008 08:15:35 -0500, dpb wrote:

Ron wrote:
On Oct 8, 6:24 pm, dpb wrote:
jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?
Minimal amount of noise reduction

--
A lot of noise reduction.
Not really only from fiberglass insulation unless also did something
about separating studs, etc., ...

It is a damper to prevent the drywall from acting as a soundboard.

But if the rock is mounted on the the opposite sides of the studs w/o
isolation it still transmits.

I'm not saying it doesn't have some benefit and it depends greatly on
how much but a typical exterior wall cavity w/ the air volume and
uncompressed batt won't make a tremendous difference. If they did put
in extra and took some extra steps it can...

--

jim evans wrote:
....
I'm a little uncertain about that. I tried to push a flat plumbers
snake (which I've used to fish wires before) up the wall and couldn't
get it to go. ...

Start at upper point and go down instead of up and use something stiffer
and smaller diameter (like baling wire size/stiffness) initially.

What is the actual insulation and how compressed is it? If they really
packed the cavity full (was assuming just a R-9 batt in a 2x4 wall which
would leave a lot of air space) may be a trick. How far you gotta' try
to go?

--

"dpb" wrote in message ...
wrote:
On Thu, 09 Oct 2008 08:15:35 -0500, dpb wrote:

Ron wrote:
On Oct 8, 6:24 pm, dpb wrote:
jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a
hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?
Minimal amount of noise reduction

--
A lot of noise reduction.
Not really only from fiberglass insulation unless also did something
about separating studs, etc., ...

It is a damper to prevent the drywall from acting as a soundboard.

But if the rock is mounted on the the opposite sides of the studs w/o
isolation it still transmits.

I'm not saying it doesn't have some benefit and it depends greatly on how
much but a typical exterior wall cavity w/ the air volume and uncompressed
batt won't make a tremendous difference. If they did put in extra and
took some extra steps it can...


We insulated our half bath walls with fiberglass. It doesn't help much with
noise. It might keep a full bath warmer after a shower though.

dpb wrote:
jim evans wrote:
...
I'm a little uncertain about that. I tried to push a flat plumbers
snake (which I've used to fish wires before) up the wall and
couldn't
get it to go. ...

Start at upper point and go down instead of up and use something
stiffer and smaller diameter (like baling wire size/stiffness)
initially.

What is the actual insulation and how compressed is it? If they
really packed the cavity full (was assuming just a R-9 batt in a 2x4
wall which would leave a lot of air space) may be a trick. How far
you gotta' try to go?

How far does the snake go? It may be hitting the blocking that is
required by some building codes about halfway up the wall.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?
Hi,
That insulation is good thing. To me more important than hanging a flat
panel on the wall. You can run a cable without disturbing insulation.
Pro installers, electricians do it all the time.

On Thu, 09 Oct 2008 08:45:45 -0500, dpb wrote:

How far you gotta' try to go?

About 5-6 feet.

On Thu, 09 Oct 2008 08:45:45 -0500, dpb wrote:

Start at upper point and go down instead of up and use something stiffer
and smaller diameter (like baling wire size/stiffness) initially.

The reason I'm trying from the bottom is because the hole at the
bottom (near the floor) is concealed by the entertainment center, and
if I can't get the wire through the wall I didn't want to cut a hole
where it will be very visible.

On Oct 8, 7:17*pm, Red Green wrote:
jim evans wrote :

I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. *To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. *When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. *It's an
inside wall. *The master bath is on the other side of the wall. *Why
is an inside wall insulated?

As mentioned repeatedly, noise reduction.

Can't remember the source so I don't know how effective but I read/heard
something a couple of decades ago that like where you have a drain pipe
coming through an interior wall from upper floor, putting empty egg cartons
all around it before closing kills the noise. The material + the shape of
the egg slots was they key.

Insulation probably works just as well and probably better.

Thats an old wive's tale. Egg cartons have absolutely no acoustic
reduction properties, and are a fire hazard. Iron down stacks are
still the best way to stop drain noise, or double sheething the wall.
Mass stops sound.

Make sure you are using a skinny 1/4" snake with no hook on it at
first to try and push your way up. A fat thick snake is not going to
help. If you are hitting something like blocking, then your SOL. Could
you try another stud bay by moving left or right of where you are
working?

On Oct 9, 8:15*am, dpb wrote:
Ron wrote:
On Oct 8, 6:24 pm, dpb wrote:
jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. *To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. *When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. *It's an
inside wall. *The master bath is on the other side of the wall. *Why
is an inside wall insulated?
Minimal amount of noise reduction

--

A lot of noise reduction.

Not really only from fiberglass insulation unless also did something
about separating studs, etc., ...

--


I agree, you only get minimal noise reduction unless you build a wall
with 2x6 top and bottom plates and 2x4 staggered studs so you have 2
isolated drywall panels on each side. This is the proper way to build
a sound-reducing wall with normal building materials:

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
| | | |
| | |
| | |
| | |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Top down view of staggered 2x4 studs on 2x6 plates, then you insulate
for maximum quietness. This is a great method for home theatre rooms,
furnace rooms, etc.

On Oct 9, 12:24*pm, RickH wrote:
On Oct 9, 8:15*am, dpb wrote:





Ron wrote:
On Oct 8, 6:24 pm, dpb wrote:
jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. *To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. *When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. *It's an
inside wall. *The master bath is on the other side of the wall. *Why
is an inside wall insulated?
Minimal amount of noise reduction

--

A lot of noise reduction.

Not really only from fiberglass insulation unless also did something
about separating studs, etc., ...

--

I agree, you only get minimal noise reduction unless you build a wall
with 2x6 top and bottom plates and 2x4 staggered studs so you have 2
isolated drywall panels on each side. *This is the proper way to build
a sound-reducing wall with normal building materials:

---------------------------------------------------------------------------*--------------------
| * * * * * * * | * * * * * * * | * * * * * * * |
| * * * * * * * | * * * * * * * |
* * * * | * * * * * * * | * * * * * * * |
| * * * * * * * | * * * * * * * |
---------------------------------------------------------------------------*---------------------

Top down view of staggered 2x4 studs on 2x6 plates, then you insulate
for maximum quietness. *This is a great method for home theatre rooms,
furnace rooms, etc.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well I can see my ascii art work failed because the text wrapped.

But the idea is to build 2 isolated 16 inch OC stud walls on 2x6
plates with 2x4's, offsetting the studs by 8 inches. Sound will not
transmit easily because one sheet cannot vibrate the opposite sheet
because there are no common studs that hang both sheets.

jim evans wrote:
On Thu, 09 Oct 2008 08:45:45 -0500, dpb wrote:

Start at upper point and go down instead of up and use something stiffer
and smaller diameter (like baling wire size/stiffness) initially.

The reason I'm trying from the bottom is because the hole at the
bottom (near the floor) is concealed by the entertainment center, and
if I can't get the wire through the wall I didn't want to cut a hole
where it will be very visible.

What about the other suggestion of using smaller diameter/stiffer object
to probe? What was result of that experiment. If, as Mike says, you're
hitting blocking, your choice is give up or cut an access hole to drill
through it.

You're not going to fight both the insulation and gravity going upwards
w/ anything that isn't rigid enough to poke through.

Is it just fiberglass batts or something more dense? If the former and
you're willing to sacrifice a large hole where it will eventually be
hidden, a piece of ply a couple inches wide or so and long could
possibly be used to make a channel against the wall by compressing the
insulation. Similar idea could be tried w/ piece of (say) flex copper
tubing...where's there's a will there's a way.

Still it'll be far easier from the top going down unless there's
blocking in the way, of course as noted...

--

On Oct 9, 9:15*am, dpb wrote:
Ron wrote:
On Oct 8, 6:24 pm, dpb wrote:
jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. *To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. *When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. *It's an
inside wall. *The master bath is on the other side of the wall. *Why
is an inside wall insulated?
Minimal amount of noise reduction

--

A lot of noise reduction.

Not really only from fiberglass insulation unless also did something
about separating studs, etc., ...

--

Well, my previous home had ALL of the interior walls insulated, and it
was MUCH quieter than my current home that doesn't have ANY interior
walls insulated.

Ron wrote:
On Oct 9, 9:15 am, dpb wrote:
Ron wrote:
On Oct 8, 6:24 pm, dpb wrote:
jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. It's an
inside wall. The master bath is on the other side of the wall. Why
is an inside wall insulated?
Minimal amount of noise reduction
--
A lot of noise reduction.
Not really only from fiberglass insulation unless also did something
about separating studs, etc., ...

--

Well, my previous home had ALL of the interior walls insulated, and it
was MUCH quieter than my current home that doesn't have ANY interior
walls insulated.

Again, it depends on what was actually done. As someone else noted,
it's mass and isolation that do sound deadening effectively, and a
simple fiberglass batt doesn't accomplish much of either.

That's not to say one can't do effective sound isolation, but it has to
be more than simply adding 3" pink glass in a tubafor wall to be of much
benefit. So, your builder apparently knew what were doing and took some
steps.

As noted earlier, that's what I presumed (perhaps erroneously, he's not
come back w/ a real clarification when asked that I've seen so far) OP
had as that's what I ran into most frequently.

--

On Oct 9, 4:29*pm, dpb wrote:
Ron wrote:
On Oct 9, 9:15 am, dpb wrote:
Ron wrote:
On Oct 8, 6:24 pm, dpb wrote:
jim evans wrote:
I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. *To tidy
it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. *When I cut a hole
in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation. *It's an
inside wall. *The master bath is on the other side of the wall. *Why
is an inside wall insulated?
Minimal amount of noise reduction
--
A lot of noise reduction.
Not really only from fiberglass insulation unless also did something
about separating studs, etc., ...

--

Well, my previous home had ALL of the interior walls insulated, and it
was MUCH quieter than my current home that doesn't have ANY interior
walls insulated.

Again, it depends on what was actually done. *As someone else noted,
it's mass and isolation that do sound deadening effectively, and a
simple fiberglass batt doesn't accomplish much of either.

That's not to say one can't do effective sound isolation, but it has to
be more than simply adding 3" pink glass in a tubafor wall to be of much
benefit. *So, your builder apparently knew what were doing and took some
steps.

As noted earlier, that's what I presumed (perhaps erroneously, he's not
come back w/ a real clarification when asked that I've seen so far) OP
had as that's what I ran into most frequently.

--

I bought the home from a guy that was a contractor, so he knew what he
was doing. VERY nice custom built home that I stupidly let my ex-wife
have!

On Thu, 09 Oct 2008 13:59:00 -0500, dpb wrote:

What about the other suggestion of using smaller diameter/stiffer object
to probe? What was result of that experiment.

I haven't come up with anything like that to try yet. A clothes
hanger just bends and isn't long enough anyway. The fish tape at the
nearby hardware is $45 and I'd rather not spring for that much for
this one-time job.

If, as Mike says, you're hitting blocking, your choice is give up or cut
an access hole to drill through it.

The studfinder shows no blocking.


Is it just fiberglass batts or something more dense?

Faced fiberglass bats

I haven't come up with anything like that to try yet. *A clothes
hanger just bends and isn't long enough anyway. *The fish tape at the
nearby hardware is $45 and I'd rather not spring for that much for
this one-time job.

It should not cost that much. A 25 foot fishtape at Lowes is like $15.

A clothes hanger will not work. Even if it was long enough, its not
flat and rigid to poke through the insulation. It sounds like somebody
really stuffed insulation in that wall.

Just curious, is the electrical outlet already on the wall behind the
TV? If its an an old work box, you can take out and possibly use that
as an access point to snake the wires up the wall.

jim evans wrote:

On Thu, 09 Oct 2008 13:59:00 -0500, dpb wrote:

What about the other suggestion of using smaller diameter/stiffer object
to probe? What was result of that experiment.

I haven't come up with anything like that to try yet. A clothes
hanger just bends and isn't long enough anyway. The fish tape at the
nearby hardware is $45 and I'd rather not spring for that much for
this one-time job.

If, as Mike says, you're hitting blocking, your choice is give up or cut
an access hole to drill through it.

The studfinder shows no blocking.

Is it just fiberglass batts or something more dense?

Faced fiberglass bats

If it's normal kraft faced batts, you should be able to push your snake
up between the insulation's kraft paper face and the back face of the
drywall. I don't know how big a hole you have down there now, you may
need a hole big enough to get a few fingers in in order to feel and find
the space between the paper and drywall. If the kraft paper is on the
other face (this was an interior wall, right?) a hole the size of a
single gang electrical box should let you get your hand in to get the
snake over to that side. As for other wire to fish with, go to Depot /
Lowe's and get a couple of the long steel hanger wires used for
suspended ceilings.

wrote in :

On Thu, 9 Oct 2008 10:15:35 -0700 (PDT), RickH
wrote:

On Oct 8, 7:17*pm, Red Green wrote:
jim evans wrote
:

I'm about to hang one of the LED big screen TVs on my wall. *To
tidy it up I decided to run the cables through the wall. *When I
cut a hole in the wall I discovered it was filled with insulation.
*It's an inside wall. *The master bath is on the other side of the
wall. *Why is an inside wall insulated?

As mentioned repeatedly, noise reduction.

Can't remember the source so I don't know how effective but I
read/heard something a couple of decades ago that like where you
have a drain pipe coming through an interior wall from upper floor,
putting empty egg cartons all around it before closing kills the
noise. The material + the shape of the egg slots was they key.

Insulation probably works just as well and probably better.

Thats an old wive's tale. Egg cartons have absolutely no acoustic
reduction properties, and are a fire hazard. Iron down stacks are
still the best way to stop drain noise, or double sheething the wall.
Mass stops sound.

Egg cartons were often used in recording studios in the 1950's. The
walls would get covered with them to kill echos without making the
room completely "dead"



Thats an old wive's tale.

Egg cartons were often used in recording studios in the 1950's.

Guess a bunch of old wive's were running the studio! :-)

On Oct 9, 9:19*am, jim evans wrote:
On Wed, 08 Oct 2008 17:37:15 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:

just use a fish tape to pull the wires through.

I'm a little uncertain about that. *I tried to push a flat plumbers
snake (which I've used to fish wires before) up the wall and couldn't
get it to go. *It was like pushing into a pillow. *And there's a
fairly large bundle of cables that have to go through the wall.
Here's a photo of about 2/3rds the bundle that has to be pushed
through this mush --http://img395.imageshack.us/my.php?image=cablebundlece4.jpg

I agree with another poster, use your plumbers snake and go from top
to bottom. I see no reason why it wouldn't work.

You said you didn't want a hole in the wall if it doesn't work, well
wouldn't the TV cover it?

Plus, if you cut out a nice square piece of drywall it's very easy to
very easy to repair the hole with the piece that you cut out.