Our clothes drier isn't very old and over the last year has slowly
taken more and more time to dry a load of clothes. The drier appears
fully functional, the heat seems to get quite hot, and we keep the
lint trap cleaned. We're suspecting the duct might be clogged up.
The round flexible drier duct hooks up to an outlet in the utility
room at the base of the wall. We're assuming there is some sort of
duct running up thru the wall and I have seen the round duct coming
from the wall up to the duct going thru the roof.

Just not sure how to go about tackling trying to clean this out.

Any hints or things to watch out for?

Thanks!

why not disconnect dryer then vacuum out the duct? tape up the hose for
better suction?
"infiniteMPG" wrote in message
...
Our clothes drier isn't very old and over the last year has slowly
taken more and more time to dry a load of clothes. The drier appears
fully functional, the heat seems to get quite hot, and we keep the
lint trap cleaned. We're suspecting the duct might be clogged up.
The round flexible drier duct hooks up to an outlet in the utility
room at the base of the wall. We're assuming there is some sort of
duct running up thru the wall and I have seen the round duct coming
from the wall up to the duct going thru the roof.

Just not sure how to go about tackling trying to clean this out.

Any hints or things to watch out for?

Thanks!

why not disconnect dryer then vacuum out the duct? tape up the hose for better suction?

GREAT idea. In fact we have a great 1-1/2 HP shop vac that we just
replaced the filter on and it really REALLY has some good suction.
Did know if we might have to use something from the top down. I'll
give that a try!

That's a great example of how these groups are great, such a simple
solution and yet it totally eluded me :O)

"infiniteMPG" wrote in message
...
Our clothes drier isn't very old and over the last year has slowly
taken more and more time to dry a load of clothes. The drier appears
fully functional, the heat seems to get quite hot, and we keep the
lint trap cleaned. We're suspecting the duct might be clogged up.
The round flexible drier duct hooks up to an outlet in the utility
room at the base of the wall. We're assuming there is some sort of
duct running up thru the wall and I have seen the round duct coming
from the wall up to the duct going thru the roof.

Just not sure how to go about tackling trying to clean this out.

Any hints or things to watch out for?

They make a brush with a long flexible handle for cleaning dryer vents. The same
problem can occur from clogs within the dryer. I suggest taking the dryer
outside, and blasting out all the air passages inside and out, and opening the
top and blasting out everything you can there, using an air compressor or leaf
blower. These tools could also clear the vent duct.

infiniteMPG wrote:
Our clothes drier isn't very old and over the last year has slowly
taken more and more time to dry a load of clothes. The drier appears
fully functional, the heat seems to get quite hot, and we keep the
lint trap cleaned. We're suspecting the duct might be clogged up.
The round flexible drier duct hooks up to an outlet in the utility
room at the base of the wall. We're assuming there is some sort of
duct running up thru the wall and I have seen the round duct coming
from the wall up to the duct going thru the roof.

Just not sure how to go about tackling trying to clean this out.

Any hints or things to watch out for?


After you do the vacuuming, think leaf blower.

For the long haul, consider re-routing the dryver vent. You dryer may not
have enough oomph to blow stuff all the way to the roof. Especially if the
dryer's in the basement and your roof is atop the second story.

If you can't reroute, and your dryer IS on the weak side, AND you can get
access to the vent stack, THEN you might install a booster fan made just for
this purpose.

On Aug 7, 6:43*pm, infiniteMPG wrote:
Our clothes drier isn't very old and over the last year has slowly
taken more and more time to dry a load of clothes. *The drier appears
fully functional, the heat seems to get quite hot, and we keep the
lint trap cleaned. *We're suspecting the duct might be clogged up.
The round flexible drier duct hooks up to an outlet in the utility
room at the base of the wall. *We're assuming there is some sort of
duct running up thru the wall and I have seen the round duct coming
from the wall up to the duct going thru the roof.

Just not sure how to go about tackling trying to clean this out.

Any hints or things to watch out for?

Thanks!

Try a hand held leaf blower, 100mph winds will push lint like a
snowstorm.

infiniteMPG wrote in news:13e9d44d-37aa-4968-ba26-
:

Our clothes drier isn't very old and over the last year has slowly
taken more and more time to dry a load of clothes. The drier appears
fully functional, the heat seems to get quite hot, and we keep the
lint trap cleaned. We're suspecting the duct might be clogged up.
The round flexible drier duct hooks up to an outlet in the utility
room at the base of the wall. We're assuming there is some sort of
duct running up thru the wall and I have seen the round duct coming
from the wall up to the duct going thru the roof.

Just not sure how to go about tackling trying to clean this out.

Any hints or things to watch out for?

Thanks!

First, where does it exit to outside? See if that's blocked with lint,
birds nest, bees nest, etc. How does the air feel coming out. You
probably have no reference for that but if it has flaps they should open
to their max. If flap is not opening, see if it opens freely with you
fingers. If it does but opens weakly with dryer on then, yea, you either
have a clog or disconnected hose.

Next disco vent from dryer. How does air directly from the dryer feel?
Strong? If not, you need to pull panels from behind dryer and clean out
passages.

If above is all good then ductwork is suspect. You could try the Shop-
Vac or leaf blower thing recommended next. My guess is the vac may get a
lot but I would not feel comfortable with just that. If there is flex vs
smooth ductwork beyond where the dryer commects to it, the flex ridges
tend to collect lint and it gets caked being combined with moisture. It
holds on pretty good to the ductwork. The leaf blower thing I've never
tried but some happy campers in this NG say it worked for their
particular case.

Truly cleaning the duct pipe means you have to run a 4" duct brush
through it BUT first you have to determine what kind of duct it is. May
have to go into attic or crawlspace to see. It should connect to the
outside vent maybe 6" inside the exterior wall. If it's that tin foil
flex, running a duct work brush, even the nylon ones, will punch a
zillion little holes in it as it runs through. The rigid flex duct and
solid plastic pipe is fine to run a brush through.

Oh, and by the way. If it's that plastic flex it's a fire hazard. May
have been OK to install at one time but it's illegal now.

On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 16:11:11 -0700 (PDT), infiniteMPG
wrote:

why not disconnect dryer then vacuum out the duct? tape up the hose for better suction?

GREAT idea. In fact we have a great 1-1/2 HP shop vac that we just
replaced the filter on and it really REALLY has some good suction.
Did know if we might have to use something from the top down. I'll
give that a try!

That's a great example of how these groups are great, such a simple
solution and yet it totally eluded me :O)

Howdy,

I would assume that the duct you want to clean is
significantly larger than the shop vac hose.

If so, you might find that it is not possible to generate
sufficient air velocity to actually get built up lint out of
the duct.

You might want to try shoving in something similar to a
chimney cleaning brush. Those are made of stiff metal, but I
would suspect that you could find something with softer
bristles for this sort of purpose. If so, shoving it into
the duct on a flexible shaft should free things up. Then,
when you withdraw it, it would bring debris with it. At that
point, the shop vac might prove to be very useful.

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

On Aug 7, 6:43*pm, infiniteMPG wrote:
Our clothes drier isn't very old and over the last year has slowly
taken more and more time to dry a load of clothes. *The drier appears
fully functional, the heat seems to get quite hot, and we keep the
lint trap cleaned. *We're suspecting the duct might be clogged up.
The round flexible drier duct hooks up to an outlet in the utility
room at the base of the wall. *We're assuming there is some sort of
duct running up thru the wall and I have seen the round duct coming
from the wall up to the duct going thru the roof.

Just not sure how to go about tackling trying to clean this out.

Any hints or things to watch out for?

Thanks!


You may not have a clogged vent.
Pull out your lint filter and hold it under running water and see if
the water easily goes through it. You will probably find it is clogged
up although it appears to be clean. Scrub it gently with a soft brush
and dishwashing detergent to clean. The residue is from fabric
softener, not keeping it clean can cost you significantly in gas and
electricty.

My in the wall dryer filter.

I came across an old breaker panel that I gutted and mounted in the
wall above my dryer. The dryer vent enters and exits from the box via
HVAC vents screwed to the box. Inside the box I placed a filter made
of several layers of screen wire placed diagonaly from corner to
corner. I find I need to clean the filter only about twice a year.
Next I plan to modify the box so I can let the filtered warm air into
the house during the winter.

Jimmie

On Aug 7, 9:07*pm, Kenneth wrote:
On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 16:11:11 -0700 (PDT), infiniteMPG

wrote:
why not disconnect dryer then vacuum out the duct? tape up the hose for better suction?

GREAT idea. *In fact we have a great 1-1/2 HP shop vac that we just
replaced the filter on and it really REALLY has some good suction.
Did know if we might have to use something from the top down. *I'll
give that a try!

That's a great example of how these groups are great, such a simple
solution and yet it totally eluded me *:O)

Howdy,

I would assume that the duct you want to clean is
significantly larger than the shop vac hose.

If so, you might find that it is not possible to generate
sufficient air velocity to actually get built up lint out of
the duct.

You might want to try shoving in something similar to a
chimney cleaning brush. Those are made of stiff metal, but I
would suspect that you could find something with softer
bristles for this sort of purpose. If so, shoving it into
the duct on a flexible shaft should free things up. Then,
when you withdraw it, it would bring debris with it. At that
point, the shop vac might prove to be very useful.

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

First wash your lint filter. If you can sprinle it with water and it
beads up it needs cleaning. The lint filter gets clogged with fabric
softener an the air flow will be nearly blocked although it appears to
be clean. Just use hot water with a little dishwashing detergent and
scrub gently with a soft brush.

Jimmie

I too believed the white plastic vent line was a fire hazard so I
replaced it.

Curious as to how well it would burn I got my garden hose out and ran
a experiment.

tried lighting a small piece of the plastic with my grill lighter,
white plastic turned brown.

got out the big guns expecting a blaze tried lighting the 10 foot long
piece with my mapp gas torch. all it did was smoulder and turn brown.

saw some plastic type at a large hardware store, if its fireproof, i
will go back to it.

it no longer appears to be flammable, another urban legend debunked

" wrote in news:8f048eec-e8d8-426c-
:

I too believed the white plastic vent line was a fire hazard so I
replaced it.

Curious as to how well it would burn I got my garden hose out and ran
a experiment.

tried lighting a small piece of the plastic with my grill lighter,
white plastic turned brown.

got out the big guns expecting a blaze tried lighting the 10 foot long
piece with my mapp gas torch. all it did was smoulder and turn brown.

saw some plastic type at a large hardware store, if its fireproof, i
will go back to it.

it no longer appears to be flammable, another urban legend debunked


Maybe urban legend but code says it's illegal...so I've heard. Your house
so, of course, you can vent it into the washer drain if you want :-).
Should you ever sell and a home inspecton item is "potential fire
hazard", you'll be replacing it unless you can show the packaging that
says it meets some ANSI fire rating.

On Aug 7, 10:01*pm, " wrote:
I too believed the white plastic vent line was a fire hazard so I
replaced it.

snip

Consider the possibility that if you have a lint fire in the plastic
hose with the dryer running, then burning lint could be blown into
wall space when the hose fails and cause a house fire. Events like
that may be why the code was changed.

Joe

wrote in message
...
I too believed the white plastic vent line was a fire hazard so I
replaced it.

Curious as to how well it would burn I got my garden hose out and ran
a experiment.

tried lighting a small piece of the plastic with my grill lighter,
white plastic turned brown.

got out the big guns expecting a blaze tried lighting the 10 foot long
piece with my mapp gas torch. all it did was smoulder and turn brown.

saw some plastic type at a large hardware store, if its fireproof, i
will go back to it.

it no longer appears to be flammable, another urban legend debunked

Try it when it's full of lint with a good draft blowing through it.

Pull the dryer out from the wall, unhook the hose, and have a good look in
with a flash light.

I think I saw a dryer vent cleaning kit at Home Depot. Brush on the end of a
long snake. You could build something with a drain snake, and a brush, and
some electrical tape to tape the brush to the end of the drain snake. That
would loosen the dust so your big shop vac could vacuum up the dust.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"infiniteMPG" wrote in message
...
why not disconnect dryer then vacuum out the duct? tape up the hose for
better suction?

GREAT idea. In fact we have a great 1-1/2 HP shop vac that we just
replaced the filter on and it really REALLY has some good suction.
Did know if we might have to use something from the top down. I'll
give that a try!

That's a great example of how these groups are great, such a simple
solution and yet it totally eluded me :O)

On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 20:01:38 -0700 (PDT), "
wrote:

got out the big guns expecting a blaze tried lighting the 10 foot long
piece with my mapp gas torch. all it did was smoulder and turn brown.

saw some plastic type at a large hardware store, if its fireproof, i
will go back to it.

it no longer appears to be flammable, another urban legend debunked

Howdy,

Might there be more than one type of plastic used for those
ducts?

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 19:42:04 -0700 (PDT), JIMMIE
wrote:

Next I plan to modify the box so I can let the filtered warm air into
the house during the winter.

Jimmie

Hi Jimmie,

I know that it is tempting, but there are significant health
risks. You would be loading the air with particles that
cannot be seen, but do lodge in your lungs.

There might be ways (heat exchangers) to capture the energy,
but breathing the warm vent air is not the way to go.

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 15:43:22 -0700 (PDT), infiniteMPG
wrote:

Our clothes drier isn't very old and over the last year has slowly
taken more and more time to dry a load of clothes. The drier appears
fully functional, the heat seems to get quite hot, and we keep the
lint trap cleaned. We're suspecting the duct might be clogged up.
The round flexible drier duct hooks up to an outlet in the utility
room at the base of the wall. We're assuming there is some sort of
duct running up thru the wall and I have seen the round duct coming
from the wall up to the duct going thru the roof.

Just not sure how to go about tackling trying to clean this out.

Any hints or things to watch out for?

Thanks!

Did you inspect the outlet? Since your end is on the roof it may be
easier to clean it out from the inside. In your case I suggest buying
a 4" diameter dryer vent brush made for this purpose and use it every
6 months.

Try he

http://www.repairclinic.com

Sometimes insects or animals will build nests in vents. Check for
wasps/bees before doing anything else. Install a 1/2" mesh hardware
cloth over the outlet if necessary.

On Thu, 07 Aug 2008 21:07:55 -0400, Kenneth
wrote:

On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 16:11:11 -0700 (PDT), infiniteMPG
wrote:

why not disconnect dryer then vacuum out the duct? tape up the hose for better suction?

GREAT idea. In fact we have a great 1-1/2 HP shop vac that we just
replaced the filter on and it really REALLY has some good suction.
Did know if we might have to use something from the top down. I'll
give that a try!

That's a great example of how these groups are great, such a simple
solution and yet it totally eluded me :O)

Howdy,

I would assume that the duct you want to clean is
significantly larger than the shop vac hose.

If so, you might find that it is not possible to generate
sufficient air velocity to actually get built up lint out of
the duct.

You might want to try shoving in something similar to a
chimney cleaning brush. Those are made of stiff metal, but I
would suspect that you could find something with softer
bristles for this sort of purpose. If so, shoving it into
the duct on a flexible shaft should free things up. Then,
when you withdraw it, it would bring debris with it. At that
point, the shop vac might prove to be very useful.

All the best,


You can also make a temporary cleaning device. Rubber-band a wad of
rags on the end of a garden hose and shove it up your vent.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=92396

is a very inexpensive brush with a 10 foot cable which works great,
specifically designed for cleaning dryer vents.

Smarty











"Phisherman" wrote in message
news
On Thu, 07 Aug 2008 21:07:55 -0400, Kenneth
wrote:

On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 16:11:11 -0700 (PDT), infiniteMPG
wrote:

why not disconnect dryer then vacuum out the duct? tape up the hose for
better suction?

GREAT idea. In fact we have a great 1-1/2 HP shop vac that we just
replaced the filter on and it really REALLY has some good suction.
Did know if we might have to use something from the top down. I'll
give that a try!

That's a great example of how these groups are great, such a simple
solution and yet it totally eluded me :O)

Howdy,

I would assume that the duct you want to clean is
significantly larger than the shop vac hose.

If so, you might find that it is not possible to generate
sufficient air velocity to actually get built up lint out of
the duct.

You might want to try shoving in something similar to a
chimney cleaning brush. Those are made of stiff metal, but I
would suspect that you could find something with softer
bristles for this sort of purpose. If so, shoving it into
the duct on a flexible shaft should free things up. Then,
when you withdraw it, it would bring debris with it. At that
point, the shop vac might prove to be very useful.

All the best,


You can also make a temporary cleaning device. Rubber-band a wad of
rags on the end of a garden hose and shove it up your vent.

Kenneth wrote:
On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 19:42:04 -0700 (PDT), JIMMIE
wrote:

Next I plan to modify the box so I can let the filtered warm air
into
the house during the winter.

Jimmie

Hi Jimmie,

I know that it is tempting, but there are significant health
risks. You would be loading the air with particles that
cannot be seen, but do lodge in your lungs.

There might be ways (heat exchangers) to capture the energy,
but breathing the warm vent air is not the way to go.

People have been using water trap dryer vents for decades with no
problems.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2213960_drye...ic-dryers.html
tells how to make one from a 5-gallon bucket, or you can buy them on
ebay for 8 bucks or so.


--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Aug 8, 9:54*am, Kenneth wrote:
On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 19:42:04 -0700 (PDT), JIMMIE

wrote:
Next I plan to modify the box so I can let the filtered warm air into
the house during the winter.

Jimmie

Hi Jimmie,

I know that it is tempting, but there are significant health
risks. You would be loading the air with particles that
cannot be seen, but do lodge in your lungs.

There might be ways (heat exchangers) to capture the energy,
but breathing the warm vent air is not the way to go.

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

Thats why I havent done it yet? I havent figured an easy way to filter
the air. I know of lots of ways to do it but not without a serious
constuction project.

Jimmie

Kenneth wrote:

Next I plan to modify the box so I can let the filtered warm air into
the house during the winter.


I know that it is tempting, but there are significant health
risks. You would be loading the air with particles that
cannot be seen, but do lodge in your lungs.

There might be ways (heat exchangers) to capture the energy,
but breathing the warm vent air is not the way to go.


Nah, just quit clipping nostril hairs - unless you're THIS close to having
enough for a sweater.

On Aug 8, 3:24 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Kenneth wrote:
Next I plan to modify the box so I can let the filtered warm air into
the house during the winter.

I know that it is tempting, but there are significant health
risks. You would be loading the air with particles that
cannot be seen, but do lodge in your lungs.

There might be ways (heat exchangers) to capture the energy,
but breathing the warm vent air is not the way to go.

Nah, just quit clipping nostril hairs - unless you're THIS close to having
enough for a sweater.



We had a similar problem with our dryer vent which was vented to come
out the roof. We had a man come in and re-route it. ... the laundry
room is next to the garage. The dryer vent now runs into the garage,
then up to the attic and across ... coming out the fascia board.
Works great now. Don't know what caused the blockage in the original
way it was vented - but there is a clean-out in the garage if needed.

On Fri, 8 Aug 2008 12:49:52 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Kenneth wrote:
On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 19:42:04 -0700 (PDT), JIMMIE
wrote:

Next I plan to modify the box so I can let the filtered warm air
into
the house during the winter.

Jimmie

Hi Jimmie,

I know that it is tempting, but there are significant health
risks. You would be loading the air with particles that
cannot be seen, but do lodge in your lungs.

There might be ways (heat exchangers) to capture the energy,
but breathing the warm vent air is not the way to go.

People have been using water trap dryer vents for decades with no
problems.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2213960_drye...ic-dryers.html
tells how to make one from a 5-gallon bucket, or you can buy them on
ebay for 8 bucks or so.


--

Hi John,

I took a look at the link you provided.

If I understand the instructions correctly, the vented air
goes across the water, rather than through the water.

Do I have that right?

If so, it would reduce the particulates, but certainly not
eliminate them.

And that raises a question:

When you say "People have been using water trap dryer vents
for decades with no problems" what leads you to believe that
there have been no problems?

I'm not a "sky is falling" sort, but I do know that
breathing the sort of fine particulates produces by a dryer
is a serious matter.

You may certainly be correct in your assessment that the
bucket technique is a good one, but the fact that it is done
frequently does not tell us much about its actual safety.

I'd be interested in learning more about it if you might
have further information.

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

On Fri, 08 Aug 2008 21:01:35 -0400, Kenneth
wrote:

On Fri, 8 Aug 2008 12:49:52 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Kenneth wrote:
On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 19:42:04 -0700 (PDT), JIMMIE
wrote:

Next I plan to modify the box so I can let the filtered warm air
into
the house during the winter.

Jimmie

Hi Jimmie,

I know that it is tempting, but there are significant health
risks. You would be loading the air with particles that
cannot be seen, but do lodge in your lungs.

There might be ways (heat exchangers) to capture the energy,
but breathing the warm vent air is not the way to go.

People have been using water trap dryer vents for decades with no
problems.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2213960_drye...ic-dryers.html
tells how to make one from a 5-gallon bucket, or you can buy them on
ebay for 8 bucks or so.


--

Hi John,

I took a look at the link you provided.

If I understand the instructions correctly, the vented air
goes across the water, rather than through the water.

Do I have that right?

If so, it would reduce the particulates, but certainly not
eliminate them.

And that raises a question:

When you say "People have been using water trap dryer vents
for decades with no problems" what leads you to believe that
there have been no problems?

I'm not a "sky is falling" sort, but I do know that
breathing the sort of fine particulates produces by a dryer
is a serious matter.

You may certainly be correct in your assessment that the
bucket technique is a good one, but the fact that it is done
frequently does not tell us much about its actual safety.

I'd be interested in learning more about it if you might
have further information.

All the best,

The indoor vent is a good idea for electric dryers if you want/need
additional moisture and heat in your house. But still, indoor venting
will add more dust than venting to the outdoors.

Phisherman wrote:
On Fri, 08 Aug 2008 21:01:35 -0400, Kenneth
wrote:

On Fri, 8 Aug 2008 12:49:52 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Kenneth wrote:
On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 19:42:04 -0700 (PDT), JIMMIE
wrote:

Next I plan to modify the box so I can let the filtered warm air
into
the house during the winter.

Jimmie

Hi Jimmie,

I know that it is tempting, but there are significant health
risks. You would be loading the air with particles that
cannot be seen, but do lodge in your lungs.

There might be ways (heat exchangers) to capture the energy,
but breathing the warm vent air is not the way to go.

People have been using water trap dryer vents for decades with no
problems.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2213960_drye...ic-dryers.html
tells how to make one from a 5-gallon bucket, or you can buy them
on
ebay for 8 bucks or so.


--

Hi John,

I took a look at the link you provided.

If I understand the instructions correctly, the vented air
goes across the water, rather than through the water.

Do I have that right?

If so, it would reduce the particulates, but certainly not
eliminate them.

And that raises a question:

When you say "People have been using water trap dryer vents
for decades with no problems" what leads you to believe that
there have been no problems?

I'm not a "sky is falling" sort, but I do know that
breathing the sort of fine particulates produces by a dryer
is a serious matter.

You may certainly be correct in your assessment that the
bucket technique is a good one, but the fact that it is done
frequently does not tell us much about its actual safety.

I'd be interested in learning more about it if you might
have further information.

All the best,

The indoor vent is a good idea for electric dryers if you want/need
additional moisture and heat in your house. But still, indoor
venting
will add more dust than venting to the outdoors.

It's cheap, it works, try it, if you don't like it you've wasted very
little. Set a clean smooth surface near the dryer, note what it looks
like after a day not running the dryer. Then run the dryer and wait a
day for the fines to settle and see what you get. If it's more than
your comfortable with, then worry about it.

--
--
--John
to email, dial "usenet" and validate
(was jclarke at eye bee em dot net)

On Sat, 9 Aug 2008 08:39:28 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Phisherman wrote:
On Fri, 08 Aug 2008 21:01:35 -0400, Kenneth
wrote:

On Fri, 8 Aug 2008 12:49:52 -0400, "J. Clarke"
wrote:

Kenneth wrote:
On Thu, 7 Aug 2008 19:42:04 -0700 (PDT), JIMMIE
wrote:

Next I plan to modify the box so I can let the filtered warm air
into
the house during the winter.

Jimmie

Hi Jimmie,

I know that it is tempting, but there are significant health
risks. You would be loading the air with particles that
cannot be seen, but do lodge in your lungs.

There might be ways (heat exchangers) to capture the energy,
but breathing the warm vent air is not the way to go.

People have been using water trap dryer vents for decades with no
problems.

http://www.ehow.com/how_2213960_drye...ic-dryers.html
tells how to make one from a 5-gallon bucket, or you can buy them
on
ebay for 8 bucks or so.


--

Hi John,

I took a look at the link you provided.

If I understand the instructions correctly, the vented air
goes across the water, rather than through the water.

Do I have that right?

If so, it would reduce the particulates, but certainly not
eliminate them.

And that raises a question:

When you say "People have been using water trap dryer vents
for decades with no problems" what leads you to believe that
there have been no problems?

I'm not a "sky is falling" sort, but I do know that
breathing the sort of fine particulates produces by a dryer
is a serious matter.

You may certainly be correct in your assessment that the
bucket technique is a good one, but the fact that it is done
frequently does not tell us much about its actual safety.

I'd be interested in learning more about it if you might
have further information.

All the best,

The indoor vent is a good idea for electric dryers if you want/need
additional moisture and heat in your house. But still, indoor
venting
will add more dust than venting to the outdoors.

It's cheap, it works, try it, if you don't like it you've wasted very
little. Set a clean smooth surface near the dryer, note what it looks
like after a day not running the dryer. Then run the dryer and wait a
day for the fines to settle and see what you get. If it's more than
your comfortable with, then worry about it.

--

Howdy,

The problem is that the dust is of a form that can be a
health hazard.

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

On Aug 8, 1:01*am, " wrote:
I too believed the white plastic vent line was a fire hazard so I
replaced it.

Curious as to how well it would burn I got my garden hose out and ran
a experiment.

tried lighting a small piece of the plastic with my grill lighter,
white plastic turned brown.

got out the big guns expecting a blaze tried lighting the 10 foot long
piece with my mapp gas torch. all it did was smoulder and turn brown.

saw some plastic type at a large hardware store, if its fireproof, i
will go back to it.

it no longer appears to be flammable, another urban legend debunked

Suggestion: Isn't the problem that burning plastic can produce noxious/
toxic fumes?
So the requirement to now use a metallized drier vent hose is probably
an attempt to reduce just one more 'likely' source of combustion.
A lot of fires are caused by people smoking either in bed or on a sofa
etc. next thing the tobacco causes synthetic bedclothes or upholstery
to smoulder and individuals die from fumes; not from being burnt.

There have been some interesting posts here.
The vent pipe in your wall should be rigid metal, so a wire brush
should not harm it.
If it is flexible of any material, replace it.

If you use a shop vac on "blow", then be sure to use it from the
inside of your home.

Be sure to clean the inside of the dryer vent termination cap on your
roof. Quite often, that is the source of the blockage.

Modern dryers are rated to push air through at least 25' of dryer
vent. Be sure to deduct 5' for each 90 degree elbow.

Good luck with this project.

Alisa
Certified Dryer Exhaust Technician
http://CleanYourOwnDryerVent.com