I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an
80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

Simpson wrote:
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an
80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

What did Benj. Moore customer service saywhen you contacted them?

jJim McLaughlin wrote:
Simpson wrote:
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an
80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

What did Benj. Moore customer service saywhen you contacted them?

Good answer!

I'm am *so* there!

jJim McLaughlin wrote:
Simpson wrote:
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an
80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

What did Benj. Moore customer service saywhen you contacted them?


Crap!

They want my first-born just to be able to email them!

On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 16:59:25 -0800, Simpson wrote:

I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an
80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

Home depot sells the silica sand for this purpose. I've used it but it
doesn't really add much traction to the surface at all.

Simpson wrote:

I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an
80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

Jack,

Having done this many times, I will tell you how I do it. Paint the
surface that you want to be non skid, then take course sand (such as
play sand or masonry sand) and broadcast it onto the painted surface. I
just take a coffee can with a plastic lid and cut some holes in the
plastic lid, then use it like a salt shaker. When you have a pretty
even coat, backroll the surface with a paint roller.

Works alot better than mixing it with the paint, where it all seems to
clump together and never mixes well.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

"Simpson" wrote in message
...
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an 80
year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for the
finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a non-skid
finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to use and in
which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

Play sand works. Brush or roll on the paint, sprinkle with sand. A light
coat is all that is needed.

Simpson writes:

Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Don't use silica sand, play sand, or such. It is a very hard abrasive and
will destroy stuff as it sheds off the paint. Paint stores sell pumice for
an anti-skid additive.

On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 21:09:38 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Simpson writes:

Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Don't use silica sand, play sand, or such. It is a very hard abrasive and
will destroy stuff as it sheds off the paint. Paint stores sell pumice for
an anti-skid additive.

Paint stores that sell silica sand for paint must have it wrong then?

http://www.lanemt.com/traction_sand.htm

http://www.usg.com/navigate.do?resou...t_Additive.htm

writes:

On Wed, 30 Jan 2008 21:09:38 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Simpson writes:

Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Don't use silica sand, play sand, or such. It is a very hard abrasive and
will destroy stuff as it sheds off the paint. Paint stores sell pumice for
an anti-skid additive.

Paint stores that sell silica sand for paint must have it wrong then?

I wouldn't find that surprising.
People want non-skid paint, they sell it.

If possible, I would use composite instead of wood.
No painting needed, never rots, it's non-skid to start with.

Only issue is composite needs more support since it
is not as rigid as wood.

Paint stores that sell silica sand for paint must have it wrong then?

Yes.

Note that the USG product you cite is "volcanic". That is, pumice.

Thanks to all.

I decided to use Behr Non-Skid Floor Finish Additive sold at Home Depot.

I don't know exactly what it is but it's white, very fine and gritty.

I'm a sailor, and we are always trying to make our decks somewhat
abrasive, so we won't slide off the boat when we take a wave. Some
manufacturers mold a pattern into the deck, but that has never seemed to
me to work too well. You could probably do the equivalent with a saw or
router and a lot of time. In olden days, it was common to mix ground
walnut shell into the deck paint and it worked fairly well; they still
sell the shell for use as a mild abrasive in sandblasting, but I haven't
seen it locally; there are sources on the internet.

They also sell non-skid compound at marine supply stores, and it works
quite well mixed into the paint (you do have to stir the paint often
during application to keep the compound suspended). Its a manufactured
product of very fine glass or plastic beads, and feels like very fine
sand in your hand. Properly applied, you get a surface that looks
smooth, but has a good grip to it. For more into, do a search for
non-skid compound at http://www.westmarine.com

Since marine supplies are expensive, the last time I was painting my
porch, I went to a paint store and asked if they had non-skid compound.
They said they did, but when I got it home it was very irregular and
looked, frankly, like they had raided a beach or a litter box, so I
didn't use it. I've worked with pumice, but it must come in grades, as
the stuff I had was too fine, in my opinion, to be effective as a
non-skid compound. I think most sand, on the other hand, would be too
coarse and would give a rough appearance, and really abrade anyone who
fell or sat on it, but would probably give very good traction. They
also sell various tapes, but I have never been convinced that they would
last very long in an outdoor application.

Simpson wrote:
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an
80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

On Jan 30, 7:12*pm, Simpson wrote:
jJim McLaughlin wrote:
Simpson wrote:
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an
80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

* What did Benj. Moore customer service saywhen you contacted them?

Crap!

They want my first-born just to be able to email them!

Under some circumstances, that could be one hell of a bargain. BG

BobR wrote:
On Jan 30, 7:12 pm, Simpson wrote:
jJim McLaughlin wrote:
Simpson wrote:
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an
80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?
Thanks,
Jack
What did Benj. Moore customer service saywhen you contacted them?
Crap!

They want my first-born just to be able to email them!

Under some circumstances, that could be one hell of a bargain. BG

Good one!

Not@home wrote:
I'm a sailor, and we are always trying to make our decks somewhat
abrasive, so we won't slide off the boat when we take a wave. Some
manufacturers mold a pattern into the deck, but that has never seemed to
me to work too well. You could probably do the equivalent with a saw or
router and a lot of time. In olden days, it was common to mix ground
walnut shell into the deck paint and it worked fairly well; they still
sell the shell for use as a mild abrasive in sandblasting, but I haven't
seen it locally; there are sources on the internet.

They also sell non-skid compound at marine supply stores, and it works
quite well mixed into the paint (you do have to stir the paint often
during application to keep the compound suspended). Its a manufactured
product of very fine glass or plastic beads, and feels like very fine
sand in your hand. Properly applied, you get a surface that looks
smooth, but has a good grip to it. For more into, do a search for
non-skid compound at http://www.westmarine.com


I settled on Behr No. 970 Non-Skid Floor Finish Additive, which looks
and feels a lot like what you described above. It was sold in a small
pouch at HD for $4, enough to treat one gallon of paint.

http://www.behr.com/behrx/act/view/p...lty&c atId=22

I plan on applying one coat of floor paint without the additive to
treads, risers and porch and then apply a second coat to treads and
porch with additive mixed in.



Since marine supplies are expensive, the last time I was painting my
porch, I went to a paint store and asked if they had non-skid compound.
They said they did, but when I got it home it was very irregular and
looked, frankly, like they had raided a beach or a litter box, so I
didn't use it. I've worked with pumice, but it must come in grades, as
the stuff I had was too fine, in my opinion, to be effective as a
non-skid compound. I think most sand, on the other hand, would be too
coarse and would give a rough appearance, and really abrade anyone who
fell or sat on it, but would probably give very good traction. They
also sell various tapes, but I have never been convinced that they would
last very long in an outdoor application.

Simpson wrote:
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an
80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

Simpson wrote in
t:

BobR wrote:
On Jan 30, 7:12 pm, Simpson wrote:
jJim McLaughlin wrote:
Simpson wrote:
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch
on an 80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and
Patio paint for the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in
the paint for a non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about
which grit of sand to use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed
any light on this for me? Thanks,
Jack
What did Benj. Moore customer service saywhen you contacted them?
Crap!

They want my first-born just to be able to email them!

Under some circumstances, that could be one hell of a bargain. BG

Good one!

Yes, very good one :-(

Simpson wrote in
t:

jJim McLaughlin wrote:
Simpson wrote:
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on
an 80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio
paint for the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the
paint for a non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which
grit of sand to use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any
light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

What did Benj. Moore customer service saywhen you contacted them?


Crap!

They want my first-born just to be able to email them!

Why not just call a local paint store that sells it. If they don't know
let them call cust service.

Red Green wrote:
Simpson wrote in
t:

jJim McLaughlin wrote:
Simpson wrote:
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on
an 80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio
paint for the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the
paint for a non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which
grit of sand to use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any
light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack
What did Benj. Moore customer service saywhen you contacted them?

Crap!

They want my first-born just to be able to email them!

Why not just call a local paint store that sells it. If they don't know
let them call cust service.

The local real paint store (not big box) has the grit on hand. All you
need to do is say that you want anti skid and they pop the lid, add the
appropriate amount, close it and send it for a ride on the shaker mixer.

Simpson wrote:
Not@home wrote:
I'm a sailor, and we are always trying to make our decks somewhat
abrasive, so we won't slide off the boat when we take a wave. Some
manufacturers mold a pattern into the deck, but that has never seemed
to me to work too well. You could probably do the equivalent with a
saw or router and a lot of time. In olden days, it was common to mix
ground walnut shell into the deck paint and it worked fairly well;
they still sell the shell for use as a mild abrasive in sandblasting,
but I haven't seen it locally; there are sources on the internet.

They also sell non-skid compound at marine supply stores, and it works
quite well mixed into the paint (you do have to stir the paint often
during application to keep the compound suspended). Its a
manufactured product of very fine glass or plastic beads, and feels
like very fine sand in your hand. Properly applied, you get a surface
that looks smooth, but has a good grip to it. For more into, do a
search for non-skid compound at http://www.westmarine.com


I settled on Behr No. 970 Non-Skid Floor Finish Additive, which looks
and feels a lot like what you described above. It was sold in a small
pouch at HD for $4, enough to treat one gallon of paint.

That is a very good price compared to the marine product, but they
always do charge quite a bit for marine products. It certainly sounds
like it will do the job.

http://www.behr.com/behrx/act/view/p...lty&c atId=22


I plan on applying one coat of floor paint without the additive to
treads, risers and porch and then apply a second coat to treads and
porch with additive mixed in.



Since marine supplies are expensive, the last time I was painting my
porch, I went to a paint store and asked if they had non-skid
compound. They said they did, but when I got it home it was very
irregular and looked, frankly, like they had raided a beach or a
litter box, so I didn't use it. I've worked with pumice, but it must
come in grades, as the stuff I had was too fine, in my opinion, to be
effective as a non-skid compound. I think most sand, on the other
hand, would be too coarse and would give a rough appearance, and
really abrade anyone who fell or sat on it, but would probably give
very good traction. They also sell various tapes, but I have never
been convinced that they would last very long in an outdoor application.

Simpson wrote:
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on
an 80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio
paint for the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the
paint for a non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which
grit of sand to use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any
light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

Not@home wrote:

Simpson wrote:
Not@home wrote:
I'm a sailor, and we are always trying to make our decks somewhat
abrasive, so we won't slide off the boat when we take a wave. Some
manufacturers mold a pattern into the deck, but that has never seemed
to me to work too well. You could probably do the equivalent with a
saw or router and a lot of time. In olden days, it was common to mix
ground walnut shell into the deck paint and it worked fairly well;
they still sell the shell for use as a mild abrasive in sandblasting,
but I haven't seen it locally; there are sources on the internet.

They also sell non-skid compound at marine supply stores, and it works
quite well mixed into the paint (you do have to stir the paint often
during application to keep the compound suspended). Its a
manufactured product of very fine glass or plastic beads, and feels
like very fine sand in your hand. Properly applied, you get a surface
that looks smooth, but has a good grip to it. For more into, do a
search for non-skid compound at http://www.westmarine.com

I settled on Behr No. 970 Non-Skid Floor Finish Additive, which looks
and feels a lot like what you described above. It was sold in a small
pouch at HD for $4, enough to treat one gallon of paint.

That is a very good price compared to the marine product, but they
always do charge quite a bit for marine products. It certainly sounds
like it will do the job.

I checked out the MSDS for both products.

They're the same animal. The unit price is probably not that much
different. One marine site wanted $20 for a pint. HD wanted $4 for 3
ounces (85.04 grams) by weight. But HD allows yo to buy in smaller amounts.

http://www.behr.com/behrx/act/view/p...lty&c atId=22


I plan on applying one coat of floor paint without the additive to
treads, risers and porch and then apply a second coat to treads and
porch with additive mixed in.


Since marine supplies are expensive, the last time I was painting my
porch, I went to a paint store and asked if they had non-skid
compound. They said they did, but when I got it home it was very
irregular and looked, frankly, like they had raided a beach or a
litter box, so I didn't use it. I've worked with pumice, but it must
come in grades, as the stuff I had was too fine, in my opinion, to be
effective as a non-skid compound. I think most sand, on the other
hand, would be too coarse and would give a rough appearance, and
really abrade anyone who fell or sat on it, but would probably give
very good traction. They also sell various tapes, but I have never
been convinced that they would last very long in an outdoor application.

Simpson wrote:
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on
an 80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio
paint for the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the
paint for a non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which
grit of sand to use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any
light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

On Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:59:25 PM UTC-5, Simpson wrote:
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an
80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

I would make sure to coat the steps with a non slip coating for safety concerns. A good one that works on wood is http://solidstepcote.com

On 10/11/2013 02:43 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:59:25 PM UTC-5, Simpson wrote:



Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.

On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 14:59:45 -0500, philo* wrote:

On 10/11/2013 02:43 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:59:25 PM UTC-5, Simpson wrote:



Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.

Um, the non-skid solution has worn off by now g?

On Fri, 11 Oct 2013 14:59:45 -0500, philo* wrote:

On 10/11/2013 02:43 PM, wrote:
On Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:59:25 PM UTC-5, Simpson wrote:



Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.

What do you expect from a Google groupie?

On Friday, October 11, 2013 12:59:45 PM UTC-7, philo* wrote:
On 10/11/2013 02:43 PM, wrote:

On Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:59:25 PM UTC-5, Simpson wrote:







Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.

who cares if it is 5 years old? people still have this problem. Did you think it was now for some reason irrelevant? I am glad someone is still posting replies. we of course don't know whether the original poster had any good results though.... i would like to see what people's results were.

wrote:
On Friday, October 11, 2013 12:59:45 PM UTC-7, philo wrote:
On 10/11/2013 02:43 PM, wrote:

On Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:59:25 PM UTC-5, Simpson wrote:







Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.

who cares if it is 5 years old? people still have this problem. Did you
think it was now for some reason irrelevant?
I am glad someone is still posting replies. we of course don't know
whether the original poster had any good
results though.... i would like to see what people's results were.

People still have all sorts of problems. Why not bring up every single post
from years gone by and reply to it?

OK, replying to every past post would be silly. Let's just go back grab
every post from 5 years ago today and reply to them because people may
still have those same problems. Tomorrow we'll go back 5 years and do it
again. Every day we'll reply to all posts from 5 years ago that day.

That should keep this ng relevant.

On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 18:04:49 -0800 (PST), wrote:

On Friday, October 11, 2013 12:59:45 PM UTC-7, philo* wrote:
On 10/11/2013 02:43 PM, wrote:

On Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:59:25 PM UTC-5, Simpson wrote:

space snip

Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.

who cares if it is 5 years old? people still have this problem. Did you think it was now for some reason irrelevant? I am glad someone is still posting replies. we of course don't know whether the original poster had any good results though.... i would like to see what people's results were.

Maybe you could go back and read every reply from 5 years ago. Would
that help?

People here do try to keep up with current events.

--
"Dumb is local...As soon as you go 15 miles away from your dumbness, you see how dumb you are." -- Sherrod Small

On Sun, 16 Feb 2014 02:25:36 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.

who cares if it is 5 years old? people still have this problem. Did you
think it was now for some reason irrelevant?
I am glad someone is still posting replies. we of course don't know
whether the original poster had any good
results though.... i would like to see what people's results were.

People still have all sorts of problems. Why not bring up every single post
from years gone by and reply to it?

OK, replying to every past post would be silly. Let's just go back grab
every post from 5 years ago today and reply to them because people may
still have those same problems. Tomorrow we'll go back 5 years and do it
again. Every day we'll reply to all posts from 5 years ago that day.

That should keep this ng relevant.

I could almost swear, Derby, you have been on roll lately

LOL

On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 19:56:42 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 16 Feb 2014 02:25:36 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.

who cares if it is 5 years old? people still have this problem. Did you
think it was now for some reason irrelevant?
I am glad someone is still posting replies. we of course don't know
whether the original poster had any good
results though.... i would like to see what people's results were.

People still have all sorts of problems. Why not bring up every single post
from years gone by and reply to it?

OK, replying to every past post would be silly. Let's just go back grab
every post from 5 years ago today and reply to them because people may
still have those same problems. Tomorrow we'll go back 5 years and do it
again. Every day we'll reply to all posts from 5 years ago that day.

That should keep this ng relevant.

I could almost swear, Derby, you have been on roll lately

LOL

I don't see the big deal. Old posts have been popping up on newsgroups
in the past few months for some reason. Personally, I look at the
subject, but I don't look at the date for every post. If someone
replies, what harm is done? Is it worth taking the time to bitch
about it? Call someone out on it? If you answer "yes", it is
probably time to re-evaluate your own life.

On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 23:53:10 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 19:56:42 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 16 Feb 2014 02:25:36 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.

who cares if it is 5 years old? people still have this problem. Did you
think it was now for some reason irrelevant?
I am glad someone is still posting replies. we of course don't know
whether the original poster had any good
results though.... i would like to see what people's results were.

People still have all sorts of problems. Why not bring up every single post
from years gone by and reply to it?

OK, replying to every past post would be silly. Let's just go back grab
every post from 5 years ago today and reply to them because people may
still have those same problems. Tomorrow we'll go back 5 years and do it
again. Every day we'll reply to all posts from 5 years ago that day.

That should keep this ng relevant.

I could almost swear, Derby, you have been on roll lately

LOL

I don't see the big deal. Old posts have been popping up on newsgroups
in the past few months for some reason. Personally, I look at the
subject, but I don't look at the date for every post. If someone
replies, what harm is done? Is it worth taking the time to bitch
about it? Call someone out on it? If you answer "yes", it is
probably time to re-evaluate your own life.

My chuckle at Derby is pertaining to exactly what?

Was the smiley face missing or am I an inarticulate ****er...

On Saturday, February 15, 2014 9:04:49 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Friday, October 11, 2013 12:59:45 PM UTC-7, philo* wrote:

On 10/11/2013 02:43 PM, wrote:



On Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:59:25 PM UTC-5, Simpson wrote:















Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.



who cares if it is 5 years old? people still have this problem. Did you think it was now for some reason irrelevant? I am glad someone is still posting replies. we of course don't know whether the original poster had any good results though.... i would like to see what people's results were.

It takes about 5 years to recover from a back injury. Since the CIA kidnapped me and broke my back in 1982 I have had multiple instances. I got 2 workmans compensation claims against the White House that were both denied. One in Texas and one in Boston. I am thinking about working a little epoxy into an oil based paint to see how it holds up

On Saturday, February 15, 2014 11:53:10 PM UTC-5, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 19:56:42 -0800, Oren wrote:



On Sun, 16 Feb 2014 02:25:36 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03

wrote:



Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.



who cares if it is 5 years old? people still have this problem. Did you

think it was now for some reason irrelevant?

I am glad someone is still posting replies. we of course don't know

whether the original poster had any good

results though.... i would like to see what people's results were.



People still have all sorts of problems. Why not bring up every single post

from years gone by and reply to it?



OK, replying to every past post would be silly. Let's just go back grab

every post from 5 years ago today and reply to them because people may

still have those same problems. Tomorrow we'll go back 5 years and do it

again. Every day we'll reply to all posts from 5 years ago that day.



That should keep this ng relevant.



I could almost swear, Derby, you have been on roll lately



LOL



I don't see the big deal. Old posts have been popping up on newsgroups

in the past few months for some reason. Personally, I look at the

subject, but I don't look at the date for every post. If someone

replies, what harm is done? Is it worth taking the time to bitch

about it? Call someone out on it? If you answer "yes", it is

probably time to re-evaluate your own life.

Violently overthrow the US government

On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 21:00:54 -0800, Oren wrote:



My chuckle at Derby is pertaining to exactly what?

Was the smiley face missing or am I an inarticulate ****er...

Nope, just adding my thoughts.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On Sat, 15 Feb 2014 21:00:54 -0800, Oren wrote:



My chuckle at Derby is pertaining to exactly what?

Was the smiley face missing or am I an inarticulate ****er...

Nope, just adding my thoughts.

So were we, but we didn't suggest that anyone's life needed reevaluation.

wrote:
On Friday, October 11, 2013 12:59:45 PM UTC-7, philo wrote:
On 10/11/2013 02:43 PM, wrote:

On Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:59:25 PM UTC-5, Simpson wrote:







Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.

who cares if it is 5 years old? people still have this problem. Did you think it was now for some reason irrelevant? I am glad someone is still posting replies. we of course don't know whether the original poster had any good results though.... i would like to see what people's results were.

I bought some from Sherwin Williams, but it wasn't fine enough. I use
anti-skid compound, sold in chandleries, with excellent results. It
consists of tiny glass beads and you don't need a lot. You don't notice
it after applying it, but it prevents slipping quite well.

On 2/15/2014 10:56 PM, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 16 Feb 2014 02:25:36 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.

who cares if it is 5 years old? people still have this problem. Did you
think it was now for some reason irrelevant?
I am glad someone is still posting replies. we of course don't know
whether the original poster had any good
results though.... i would like to see what people's results were.

People still have all sorts of problems. Why not bring up every single post
from years gone by and reply to it?

OK, replying to every past post would be silly. Let's just go back grab
every post from 5 years ago today and reply to them because people may
still have those same problems. Tomorrow we'll go back 5 years and do it
again. Every day we'll reply to all posts from 5 years ago that day.

That should keep this ng relevant.

I could almost swear, Derby, you have been on roll lately

LOL

Naah, he was on a roll five years ago. These are reruns
of old answers from five years ago. You can tell from
the hair styles, and the cars the people drove.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
Learn about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

You should go to http://www.nonslippaints.com

On Sunday, February 16, 2014 1:52:36 PM UTC-6, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 2/15/2014 10:56 PM, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 16 Feb 2014 02:25:36 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03

wrote:



Nice of you to reply to a five year old post.



who cares if it is 5 years old? people still have this problem. Did you

think it was now for some reason irrelevant?

I am glad someone is still posting replies. we of course don't know

whether the original poster had any good

results though.... i would like to see what people's results were.



People still have all sorts of problems. Why not bring up every single post

from years gone by and reply to it?



OK, replying to every past post would be silly. Let's just go back grab

every post from 5 years ago today and reply to them because people may

still have those same problems. Tomorrow we'll go back 5 years and do it

again. Every day we'll reply to all posts from 5 years ago that day.



That should keep this ng relevant.



I could almost swear, Derby, you have been on roll lately



LOL



Naah, he was on a roll five years ago. These are reruns

of old answers from five years ago. You can tell from

the hair styles, and the cars the people drove.



--

.

Christopher A. Young

Learn about Jesus

www.lds.org

.

On Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:59:25 PM UTC-5, Simpson wrote:
I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an
80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for
the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a
non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to
use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?

Thanks,
Jack

How do you clean the deck that has been painted with the non-skid paint? I tried using my swifter and it just rips the cloth.

On Sunday, June 22, 2014 11:27:15 AM UTC-4, wrote:
On Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:59:25 PM UTC-5, Simpson wrote:

I'm rebuilding a 13 step outdoor wooden staircase and entry porch on an

80 year old house. I bought some Benjamin Moore Deck and Patio paint for

the finish coat. It says on the can to use sand in the paint for a

non-skid finish. But it doesn't say anything about which grit of sand to

use and in which proportion. Can anyone shed any light on this for me?



Thanks,

Jack



How do you clean the deck that has been painted with the non-skid paint? I tried using my swifter and it just rips the cloth.

garden hose......