I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

"dgk" wrote in message
...
I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

carbon monoxide should scare you a lot. Make real sure you know what your
doing or at least have a professional handle that part of the job

"dgk" wrote in message
...
I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

Search for a shorter heater. They are out there. Don't depend on the big box
stores.

Gas work is not rocket surgery. Get the needed permits, and ask questions of
the inspectors if you need to. I have found them VERY helpful as long as you do
your homework first. Their advice is way more reliable than the kid at the
hardware store.

Ideally, you can disconnect the old heater, ending up with a 1/2" male or female
thread to which you can attach a flex line to the heater. Use pipe dope on any
pipe thread connections you make, and tighten things well. (careful on the
heater itself) Don't disturb any pipe joints you want to keep. Use 2 wrenches to
avoid twisting them.

Bob

On 23 Oct, 16:14, "Bob F" wrote:
"dgk" wrote in message

...

I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

Search for a shorter heater. They are out there. Don't depend on the big box
stores.

Gas work is not rocket surgery. Get the needed permits, and ask questions of
the inspectors if you need to. I have found them VERY helpful as long as you do
your homework first. Their advice is way more reliable than the kid at the
hardware store.

Ideally, you can disconnect the old heater, ending up with a 1/2" male or female
thread to which you can attach a flex line to the heater. Use pipe dope on any
pipe thread connections you make, and tighten things well. (careful on the
heater itself) Don't disturb any pipe joints you want to keep. Use 2 wrenches to
avoid twisting them.

Bob

Mix some dishwashing soap with water and paint it on all joints after
tightening. Active bubbling means you have a leak.

On Oct 23, 12:50 pm, dgk wrote:
I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

I'm no pro, and someone will probably quickly post something to say
this is bad... but I replaced my water heater and had a similar
problem. I ended up using that flexable stuff, the same stuff that is
on my clothes dryer. I didn't get a permit, but I did have my gas
furnace replaced a few months later (hired a pro for that one) and the
contractor and inspector both said what I did looks fine and technicly
didn't violate any codes (the inspector was only looking at the
heater, but I'm guessing he would have busted me for not getting a
permit if he had thought it was a possible safety issue).

I installed a carbon monoxide detector just outside the closet with
the water heater and furnace, just incase.


The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

Also watch out for the width (diameter), that was almost a major
problem on the one I got. I got the most energy effecient one I could
find (got it at Sears), which turns out to be a lot wider since it has
more insulation. The contractor that did the heater kept asking me
why I really needed that much hot water, even though I explained twice
that it was the same number of gallons as the one I removed, just a
lot bigger anyway.

I had to re-route the blow-off drain pipe because of the extra width.
Also watch out for the location of that blow-off valve (not sure if
I'm calling it the right thing, but the valve that opens if the
presure gets too high), seems like some of those are a little
different. Usually the top connections are the same, but on the one I
got that valve was a little different if I remember correctly.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

Check where you live, but here the gas company will do a free leak
test for you. I think it is supposed to be only for new appliances,
because they want you to convert from electric to gas, but I bet they
would do it for replacement as well, since I could have replaced with
electric (not that I had the extra amps available).

Ever think of going to electric?

I have had it for many years, no vents, no gas leaks,
no pilots, less expensive, and easy to install. Plus
you might get a kilowatt reduction dicount from the
power company.

I never ran out of water, and we had 2 teenagers in the house,
my son was a catcher in baseball, had dirty uniforms every night!

Just a thought, all you need is a 35 amp 240 volt circuit.

On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:50:23 -0400, dgk wrote:

I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

The *floating around* on the subject ; tells me you have time to get a
permit, if necessary. Call a local permit authority office.

In an emergency I replaced a WH, but needed to bring too code when I
sold the home. The latter code required an earthquake strap.

Our local gas company will render a free connect and inspection.
Realtors use this all the time to check/connect gas appliances.

--
Oren

"I wouldn't even be here if my support group hadn't beaten me up."

On Oct 23, 2:50 pm, dgk wrote:
I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

I've done it. There should be a shutoff on the gas line within a few
feet of the water heater. If there is already a flex line connecting
the old heater, you should be able to adapt it to the new one. If the
old heater was attached via all hard piping, you may need to install a
flex connector or make some other adjustment to the piping. The vent
issue does sound tough. When you say "through the wall" do you mean
the vent goes through the wall and directly outside, or does it go
into a chimney? -- H

dgk wrote:
I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

The only difficult part is the weight of the sucker. Hint: The old one is
easier to move if you drain it first (40 gallons of water x 8# per gallon =
240 pounds) (Hint #2: A pint's a pound the world around)

Gas connection is dirt simple with a flexible metal hose and either the
appropriate Teflon tape (grey) or pipe dope.

As for venting, if the new heater is taller than the old, saw off some of
the existing vent pipe. If the existing vent doesn't line up very well with
the new heater, exhaust pipe "union" or "twistable" connectors are
available.

In the best of all worlds, the vent pipe should be double-walled.

Hint: If you leave the old heater on the curb, the urban faeries will
dissapear it overnight.

Hint 2: I don't know if they're standard, but the electronic ignition for
the pilot is nice.

"dgk" wrote in message
...
I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.


Why would you attempt a DIY project without the proper training?
I mean, it's not like your going to waste yarn on a scarf, this project
could *kill* you and your loved ones.

"Bob F" wrote in message
...

"dgk" wrote in message
...
I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

Search for a shorter heater. They are out there. Don't depend on the big
box
stores.

Gas work is not rocket surgery. Get the needed permits, and ask questions
of
the inspectors if you need to. I have found them VERY helpful as long as
you do
your homework first. Their advice is way more reliable than the kid at the
hardware store.

Ideally, you can disconnect the old heater, ending up with a 1/2" male or
female
thread to which you can attach a flex line to the heater. Use pipe dope on
any
pipe thread connections you make

Too often, I see people using pipe dope on flare fittings. rolleyes
Just recently, I came across a water heater with a male flare screwed into
the valve!!!
They couldn't figure out why it keep leaking.
This is one task that should be left to a professional!!

wrote in message
oups.com...


I'm no pro, and someone will probably quickly post something to say
this is bad... but I replaced my water heater and had a similar
problem. I ended up using that flexable stuff, the same stuff that is
on my clothes dryer.

It's not the same stuff...

dgk wrote:
I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.
I DON'T KNOW WHY DON'T YOU TELL ME, DUMBASS? HOW THE **** AM I SUPPOSED
TO KNOW IF YOU CAN DO DICK WITH YOUR WATER HEATER OR NOT IF YOU ARE NOT
COMFORTABLE WITH DICKING AROUND WITH YOUR WATER HEATER THEN WHY NOT HIRE
SOMEBODY ELSE TO **** AROUND WITH IT AND ACTUALLY KNOWS DICK ABOUT WHAT
THEY'RE DOING?

"Heathcliff" wrote in message
ups.com...
On Oct 23, 2:50 pm, dgk wrote:
I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

I've done it. There should be a shutoff on the gas line within a few
feet of the water heater. If there is already a flex line connecting
the old heater, you should be able to adapt it to the new one.


You're not to reuse an old gas flex... try reading the instructions.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...

As for venting, if the new heater is taller than the old, saw off some of
the existing vent pipe. If the existing vent doesn't line up very well
with
the new heater, exhaust pipe "union"

Exhaust pipe 'union", I thought I'd heard it all...

On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 17:53:22 -0500, kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:

Too often, I see people using pipe dope on flare fittings. rolleyes
Just recently, I came across a water heater with a male flare screwed into
the valve!!!
They couldn't figure out why it keep leaking.
This is one task that should be left to a professional!!

What did you do?


--
Oren

"I didn’t say it was your fault, I said I was blaming you."

On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:59:13 -0700, Paige D'Winter wrote:

Trash.

You really are an asshole.
--
Oren

"My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland
and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore
excused from saving Universes."

Oren wrote:
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:59:13 -0700, Paige D'Winter wrote:

Trash.

You really are an asshole.
--
Oren

"My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland
and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore
excused from saving Universes."
GO SHOVE A CORTELCO FONE UP YOUR ASS.

On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:09:06 -0400, dgk
wrote:

On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 14:02:14 -0700, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:50:23 -0400, dgk wrote:

I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

The *floating around* on the subject ; tells me you have time to get a
permit, if necessary. Call a local permit authority office.

In an emergency I replaced a WH, but needed to bring too code when I
sold the home. The latter code required an earthquake strap.

Our local gas company will render a free connect and inspection.
Realtors use this all the time to check/connect gas appliances.

I called the 311 city info line today and asked about permits. They
said that only a contractor needs a permit. A homeowner is on their
own. Seems fishy to me but that's what they said.

I don't have too much time either. I just turned it back on to take a
shower, but when I'm done I'm shutting it all back down.

ConEd does nothing for free but I'll give them a call.

How about the flex stuff folks? My plumber, who can't get to the for a
least a week, said not to use it. Other folks say it's fine.

I have gas flex lines on the stove top, clothes dryer and water
heater.

....and live to type about it....


--
Oren

"My doctor says I have a malformed public-duty gland
and a natural deficiency in moral fiber, and that I am therefore
excused from saving Universes."

dgk wrote:


Thanks, the water part did occur to me. There is a drain and it looks
like a hose will fit perfectly. Run it outside and down the drain in
the driveway. The things really aren't very heavy once the water is
out.

That's exactly what it's for.


My plumber said that flex stuff is no good, but he might be a bit old
fashioned. There isn't much vent pipe to trim off really, but it looks
like if it's only an inch taller I can get away with it. All of them
seem to be around 58" and the current one is 57.

The flex stuff works, is certified, annointed, blessed, approved, and
designed for gas connections. It works swell if you don't flex it too much.

Your plumber may be thinking of the hose attached to something that gets
moved a lot, like a space heater. Continued flexing of the flex hose will,
through metal fatigue, cause it to fail. But how often are you going to
relocate a water heater?

You should connect a pipe to the T&P valve and at least have it pointing
downward. If it ever blows, you don't want to spray scalding water on
anybody standing nearby - like at the washer.

On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 16:51:40 -0700, Paige D'Winter
wrote:

Oren wrote:
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:59:13 -0700, Paige D'Winter wrote:

Trash.

You really are an asshole.

Oren


GO SHOVE A CORTELCO FONE UP YOUR ASS.

You prove my point (BFG).

How do you replace your water heater?

--
Oren

"The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!"

Oren wrote:
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 16:51:40 -0700, Paige D'Winter
wrote:

Oren wrote:
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:59:13 -0700, Paige D'Winter wrote:

Trash.

You really are an asshole.

Oren


GO SHOVE A CORTELCO FONE UP YOUR ASS.

You prove my point (BFG).

How do you replace your water heater?

--
Oren

"The voices in my head may not be real, but they have some good ideas!"
I pay somebody who knows what the **** they are doing to do it as
opposed to be a dumbass know it the **** all egotistical homeowner.

**** You and **** Cortelco.

On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 18:01:05 -0700, Paige D'Winter
wrote:

Oren wrote:
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 16:51:40 -0700, Paige D'Winter
wrote:

Oren wrote:
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 15:59:13 -0700, Paige D'Winter wrote:

Trash.

You really are an asshole.

Oren


GO SHOVE A CORTELCO FONE UP YOUR ASS.

You prove my point (BFG).

How do you replace your water heater?

Oren


I pay somebody who knows what the **** they are doing to do it as
opposed to be a dumbass know it the **** all egotistical homeowner.

This will not minimize the strong probability that you are still an
asshole :-))

**** You and **** Cortelco.
--
Oren

"I didn’t say it was your fault, I said I was blaming you."

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
...

"Bob F" wrote in message
...

"dgk" wrote in message
...
I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

Search for a shorter heater. They are out there. Don't depend on the big
box
stores.

Gas work is not rocket surgery. Get the needed permits, and ask questions
of
the inspectors if you need to. I have found them VERY helpful as long as
you do
your homework first. Their advice is way more reliable than the kid at the
hardware store.

Ideally, you can disconnect the old heater, ending up with a 1/2" male or
female
thread to which you can attach a flex line to the heater. Use pipe dope on
any
pipe thread connections you make

Too often, I see people using pipe dope on flare fittings. rolleyes
Just recently, I came across a water heater with a male flare screwed into
the valve!!!
They couldn't figure out why it keep leaking.
This is one task that should be left to a professional!!

Or a reasonably thinking home-owner. Sure - there are a few idiots out there.
That doesn't mean most do-it-your-self-ers are the same.

Bob

"Bumpy" wrote in message
...
Ever think of going to electric?

I have had it for many years, no vents, no gas leaks,
no pilots, less expensive, and easy to install. Plus
you might get a kilowatt reduction dicount from the
power company.


You'll pay twice as much for the heat most places, and your electric bill might
increase even more due to the increased usage.

How many power companies give a discount for more usage these days?

Bob

"Oren" wrote in message
...

I pay somebody who knows what the **** they are doing to do it as
opposed to be a dumbass know it the **** all egotistical homeowner.

This will not minimize the strong probability that you are still an
asshole :-))

**** You and **** Cortelco.

Just plonk the guy ands let it go. He's not worth the trouble.

Bob

Bob F wrote:

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
...

"Bob F" wrote in message
...

"dgk" wrote in message
...

I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

Search for a shorter heater. They are out there. Don't depend on the big

box

stores.

Gas work is not rocket surgery. Get the needed permits, and ask questions

of

the inspectors if you need to. I have found them VERY helpful as long as

you do

your homework first. Their advice is way more reliable than the kid at the
hardware store.

Ideally, you can disconnect the old heater, ending up with a 1/2" male or

female

thread to which you can attach a flex line to the heater. Use pipe dope on

any

pipe thread connections you make

Too often, I see people using pipe dope on flare fittings. rolleyes
Just recently, I came across a water heater with a male flare screwed into
the valve!!!
They couldn't figure out why it keep leaking.
This is one task that should be left to a professional!!


Or a reasonably thinking home-owner. Sure - there are a few idiots out there.
That doesn't mean most do-it-your-self-ers are the same.

Bob


Hi,
OK, accident can happen. If you ddi it yourself(not being licenced pro)
when something goes wrong, insurance becomes invalid. If pro did the
job, you can still claim for the loss or damage.

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
news:JezTi.135105$1y4.44069@pd7urf2no...
Bob F wrote:

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
...

"Bob F" wrote in message
...

"dgk" wrote in message
m...

I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

Search for a shorter heater. They are out there. Don't depend on the big

box

stores.

Gas work is not rocket surgery. Get the needed permits, and ask questions

of

the inspectors if you need to. I have found them VERY helpful as long as

you do

your homework first. Their advice is way more reliable than the kid at the
hardware store.

Ideally, you can disconnect the old heater, ending up with a 1/2" male or

female

thread to which you can attach a flex line to the heater. Use pipe dope on

any

pipe thread connections you make

Too often, I see people using pipe dope on flare fittings. rolleyes
Just recently, I came across a water heater with a male flare screwed into
the valve!!!
They couldn't figure out why it keep leaking.
This is one task that should be left to a professional!!


Or a reasonably thinking home-owner. Sure - there are a few idiots out there.
That doesn't mean most do-it-your-self-ers are the same.

Bob


Hi,
OK, accident can happen. If you ddi it yourself(not being licenced pro) when
something goes wrong, insurance becomes invalid. If pro did the job, you can
still claim for the loss or damage.

Are you a pro?

Bob

Paige D'Winter wrote:
I DON'T KNOW WHY DON'T YOU TELL ME, DUMBASS? HOW THE **** AM I
SUPPOSED TO KNOW IF YOU CAN DO DICK WITH YOUR WATER HEATER OR NOT IF
YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH DICKING AROUND WITH YOUR WATER HEATER
THEN WHY NOT HIRE SOMEBODY ELSE TO **** AROUND WITH IT AND ACTUALLY
KNOWS DICK ABOUT WHAT THEY'RE DOING?

Keyboards fixed: $12.00.

On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:24:22 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:


[snip]


Or a reasonably thinking home-owner. Sure - there are a few idiots out there.
That doesn't mean most do-it-your-self-ers are the same.

Bob


Thinking of the idiot who connected the gas line to the cold water
inlet, thinking it would make the water hotter. That didn't work at
first, then it became a 10,000% success (at least according to the
fire department).

Bob F wrote:
"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
news:JezTi.135105$1y4.44069@pd7urf2no...

Bob F wrote:


kjpro @ usenet.com wrote in message
. ..


"Bob F" wrote in message
...


"dgk" wrote in message
om...


I've been floating around the past few days on this subject. It looks
easy but the gas has me a bit worried. It seems that all I need to do
is a bit of pipe work and the thing should be ok. The vent looks
tough. The current on really doesn't slope up much if at all, and I've
read it should go up an inch every four feet.

The new heaters all seem to be a bit taller than the old one, so it
will be even worse without major work venting it higher through the
wall. I guess I need to find a water heater that is the same height or
a bit lower. That seems to be tough so far.

And gas does scare me just a wee bit.

Search for a shorter heater. They are out there. Don't depend on the big

box


stores.

Gas work is not rocket surgery. Get the needed permits, and ask questions

of


the inspectors if you need to. I have found them VERY helpful as long as

you do


your homework first. Their advice is way more reliable than the kid at the
hardware store.

Ideally, you can disconnect the old heater, ending up with a 1/2" male or

female


thread to which you can attach a flex line to the heater. Use pipe dope on

any


pipe thread connections you make

Too often, I see people using pipe dope on flare fittings. rolleyes
Just recently, I came across a water heater with a male flare screwed into
the valve!!!
They couldn't figure out why it keep leaking.
This is one task that should be left to a professional!!


Or a reasonably thinking home-owner. Sure - there are a few idiots out there.
That doesn't mean most do-it-your-self-ers are the same.

Bob



Hi,
OK, accident can happen. If you ddi it yourself(not being licenced pro) when
something goes wrong, insurance becomes invalid. If pro did the job, you can
still claim for the loss or damage.


Are you a pro?

Bob


Hi,
No, I don't do certain things mtself for a reason.

On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 07:59:52 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Paige D'Winter wrote:
I DON'T KNOW WHY DON'T YOU TELL ME, DUMBASS? HOW THE **** AM I
SUPPOSED TO KNOW IF YOU CAN DO DICK WITH YOUR WATER HEATER OR NOT IF
YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH DICKING AROUND WITH YOUR WATER HEATER
THEN WHY NOT HIRE SOMEBODY ELSE TO **** AROUND WITH IT AND ACTUALLY
KNOWS DICK ABOUT WHAT THEY'RE DOING?

Keyboards fixed: $12.00.


That's outrageous. A whole new keyboard is less than $12.

Paige had a point though. I guess I should have phrased it better. The
question was meant to be along the lines of: Is replacing the water
heater something that a reasonably competent person, but not a
contractor, would be capable of doing?

You see, there are many sites on the internet that give what appear to
be very good instructions for doing it, for instance:

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/h2installwaterheater

It looks like this is a much easier job than, say, replacing a shower
pan: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/troublesomeshowerpan

Notice that the instructions for the water heater to not suggest using
a professional but the ones for a shower pan do.

Of course, blowing up the house would be a worse outcome than having a
small pan leak.

I, naturally, need both a new water heater and a new pan.

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
news:LlITi.137439$Da.70575@pd7urf1no...

Hi,
OK, accident can happen. If you ddi it yourself(not being licenced pro) when
something goes wrong, insurance becomes invalid. If pro did the job, you can
still claim for the loss or damage.


Are you a pro?

Bob


Hi,
No, I don't do certain things mtself for a reason.

Well, I'm not a pro, and I do do certain things myself for a reason.

Bob

"Sam E" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:24:22 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:


[snip]


Or a reasonably thinking home-owner. Sure - there are a few idiots out there.
That doesn't mean most do-it-your-self-ers are the same.

Bob


Thinking of the idiot who connected the gas line to the cold water
inlet, thinking it would make the water hotter. That didn't work at
first, then it became a 10,000% success (at least according to the
fire department).

Show me documentation that this really happened. It is pretty hard to believe.

Bob

"dgk" wrote in message
...
On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 07:59:52 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Paige D'Winter wrote:
I DON'T KNOW WHY DON'T YOU TELL ME, DUMBASS? HOW THE **** AM I
SUPPOSED TO KNOW IF YOU CAN DO DICK WITH YOUR WATER HEATER OR NOT IF
YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH DICKING AROUND WITH YOUR WATER HEATER
THEN WHY NOT HIRE SOMEBODY ELSE TO **** AROUND WITH IT AND ACTUALLY
KNOWS DICK ABOUT WHAT THEY'RE DOING?

Keyboards fixed: $12.00.


That's outrageous. A whole new keyboard is less than $12.

Paige had a point though. I guess I should have phrased it better. The
question was meant to be along the lines of: Is replacing the water
heater something that a reasonably competent person, but not a
contractor, would be capable of doing?

You see, there are many sites on the internet that give what appear to
be very good instructions for doing it, for instance:

http://www.doityourself.com/stry/h2installwaterheater

It looks like this is a much easier job than, say, replacing a shower
pan: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/troublesomeshowerpan

Notice that the instructions for the water heater to not suggest using
a professional but the ones for a shower pan do.

Of course, blowing up the house would be a worse outcome than having a
small pan leak.

I, naturally, need both a new water heater and a new pan.

I did my shower pan. With sufficient research, it's doable.

Bob

Bob F wrote:
Thinking of the idiot who connected the gas line to the cold water
inlet, thinking it would make the water hotter. That didn't work at
first, then it became a 10,000% success (at least according to the
fire department).

Show me documentation that this really happened. It is pretty hard to
believe.

Can't you imagine? 50 pounds of water pressure agains 2 ounces of gas
pressure? Everybody on the block with liquid-squirting pilot lights?

What a hoot!

dgk wrote:
On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 07:59:52 -0500, "HeyBub"
wrote:

Paige D'Winter wrote:
I DON'T KNOW WHY DON'T YOU TELL ME, DUMBASS? HOW THE **** AM I
SUPPOSED TO KNOW IF YOU CAN DO DICK WITH YOUR WATER HEATER OR NOT IF
YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE WITH DICKING AROUND WITH YOUR WATER HEATER
THEN WHY NOT HIRE SOMEBODY ELSE TO **** AROUND WITH IT AND ACTUALLY
KNOWS DICK ABOUT WHAT THEY'RE DOING?

Keyboards fixed: $12.00.


That's outrageous. A whole new keyboard is less than $12.

I'm a keyboard contractor. Designer colors only slightly more.

On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 11:30:01 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:


"Sam E" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:24:22 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:


[snip]


Or a reasonably thinking home-owner. Sure - there are a few idiots out there.
That doesn't mean most do-it-your-self-ers are the same.

Bob


Thinking of the idiot who connected the gas line to the cold water
inlet, thinking it would make the water hotter. That didn't work at
first, then it became a 10,000% success (at least according to the
fire department).

Show me documentation that this really happened. It is pretty hard to believe.

Bob


I hear way too much stuff to keep track of all the details. That could
be something from the Darwin Awards. I've recently read a lot of
those.

Stupidity is often hard to believe, but it happens anyway.

HeyBub wrote:

Bob F wrote:

Thinking of the idiot who connected the gas line to the cold water
inlet, thinking it would make the water hotter. That didn't work at
first, then it became a 10,000% success (at least according to the
fire department).

Show me documentation that this really happened. It is pretty hard to
believe.


Can't you imagine? 50 pounds of water pressure agains 2 ounces of gas
pressure? Everybody on the block with liquid-squirting pilot lights?

What a hoot!


Interesting thought, but it would probably stop at the regulator.

On Wed, 24 Oct 2007 11:30:01 -0700, Bob F wrote:



"Sam E" wrote in message
.. .
On Tue, 23 Oct 2007 19:24:22 -0700, "Bob F"
wrote:


[snip]


Or a reasonably thinking home-owner. Sure - there are a few idiots out there.
That doesn't mean most do-it-your-self-ers are the same.

Bob


Thinking of the idiot who connected the gas line to the cold water
inlet, thinking it would make the water hotter. That didn't work at
first, then it became a 10,000% success (at least according to the
fire department).

Show me documentation that this really happened. It is pretty hard to believe.

Especially considering that the lines have differences sizes and threads.
You'd have to spend a few hours down at the local home depot looking through
the wall of couplers and adapters to find the two or three adapters you
have to tie together to adapt the gas line to a water in/outlet.