Electric water heater is an A.O. Smith 40 gallon "low-boy" (short and fat)
about 10 years old. It's in a Florida condo unit, and from what I see, no
dielectric unions on the copper water lines to and from the heater. I see
a moderate amount of corrosion where the copper fittings connect to the
heater. No leaks. I don't see any rust or particles in the water at the
taps. I think it's a little slow to get hot water out, but not that
unreasonable.

Since this is a winter vacation place and I won't be there 24/7 I'm a little
nervous about the tank letting loose when I'm not there, although it is on a
first floor slab and a drain pan is installed...

If I do replace it, dielectric unions are supposed to be used, correct?

Home Depot's selection all seem to have only a 6 year warranty which seems
to be on the low end. Consumer Reports said that brand doesn't matter, that
the warranty does, i.e., more years = heavier duty tank linings, insulation,
etc.

Your input appreciated !

Thanks.

-- Paul

Paul wrote:

Electric water heater is an A.O. Smith 40 gallon "low-boy" (short and fat)
about 10 years old. It's in a Florida condo unit, and from what I see, no
dielectric unions on the copper water lines to and from the heater. I see
a moderate amount of corrosion where the copper fittings connect to the
heater. No leaks. I don't see any rust or particles in the water at the
taps. I think it's a little slow to get hot water out, but not that
unreasonable.

Since this is a winter vacation place and I won't be there 24/7 I'm a little
nervous about the tank letting loose when I'm not there, although it is on a
first floor slab and a drain pan is installed...

If I do replace it, dielectric unions are supposed to be used, correct?

Home Depot's selection all seem to have only a 6 year warranty which seems
to be on the low end. Consumer Reports said that brand doesn't matter, that
the warranty does, i.e., more years = heavier duty tank linings, insulation,
etc.

Your input appreciated !

Thanks.

-- Paul


Here's my experience over some years. Copper male adapters
directly into the tank threaded bosses will corrode the boss
over time. I've seen them nearly dissolved.

Dielectric Unions work to prevent that failure, but they do tend
to foul up inside.

So-called dieletric "heater nipples" which have a smooth plastic
interior seem to be as effective as the unions and don't clog
as often.

Electric heaters last a long time but that varies with water quality.
Failure at the supply inlet/outlet isn't going to be caught by the
pan and you could have a mess. Your call...

Jim

On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 15:51:30 -0500, "Paul"
wrote:

Electric water heater is an A.O. Smith 40 gallon "low-boy" (short and fat)
about 10 years old. It's in a Florida condo unit, and from what I see, no
dielectric unions on the copper water lines to and from the heater. I see
a moderate amount of corrosion where the copper fittings connect to the
heater. No leaks. I don't see any rust or particles in the water at the
taps. I think it's a little slow to get hot water out, but not that
unreasonable.

Since this is a winter vacation place and I won't be there 24/7 I'm a little
nervous about the tank letting loose when I'm not there, although it is on a
first floor slab and a drain pan is installed...

If I do replace it, dielectric unions are supposed to be used, correct?

Home Depot's selection all seem to have only a 6 year warranty which seems
to be on the low end. Consumer Reports said that brand doesn't matter, that
the warranty does, i.e., more years = heavier duty tank linings, insulation,
etc.

Your input appreciated !

Thanks.

-- Paul


10 yrs is certainly worth looking at to replace, especially in a
vacation home not occupied all the time.
I would also turn the electric off to the heater and the water supply
too when I left the place.
I think the di-electric unions are a waste of time and money. They
usually are clogged and corroded when I take the old water heaters
out. Have your water pressure to the home checked and add a pressure
reducing valve to the incoming water line to reduce the water pressure
to a lower workable pressure if it is too high now. You might also
install an expansion tank on the water heater.
I dont like any of the Home Depot water heaters. Find a professional
series water heater or have a plumber install one for you.
Bubba

"Paul" wrote in message
...
Electric water heater is an A.O. Smith 40 gallon "low-boy" (short and fat)
about 10 years old. It's in a Florida condo unit, and from what I see, no
dielectric unions on the copper water lines to and from the heater. I see a
moderate amount of corrosion where the copper fittings connect to the heater.
No leaks. I don't see any rust or particles in the water at the taps. I
think it's a little slow to get hot water out, but not that unreasonable.

Since this is a winter vacation place and I won't be there 24/7 I'm a little
nervous about the tank letting loose when I'm not there, although it is on a
first floor slab and a drain pan is installed...

If I do replace it, dielectric unions are supposed to be used, correct?

Home Depot's selection all seem to have only a 6 year warranty which seems to
be on the low end. Consumer Reports said that brand doesn't matter, that the
warranty does, i.e., more years = heavier duty tank linings, insulation, etc.

Your input appreciated !

Thanks.

-- Paul

This is Turtle.

I could never really figure out when I was suppose to change something till it
broke and then I knew for sure. Now till all the manufactor start stating in
writting that they should change their stuff out in X number of years. i'm going
to just run my stuff till it breaks and then buy me a new one. Now there is
things that you can't do without but hot water is one you can do without it for
a while.

Now I will say this. the tank you have now [ 10 years old ] is probley in better
condition than any new one you would buy today. Why trade off a good piece of
equipment to install the newer piece of trash they have today.

TURTLE

TURTLE wrote:
"Paul" wrote in message
...

Electric water heater is an A.O. Smith 40 gallon "low-boy"
(short and fat) about 10 years old.
from what I see, no dielectric unions
I see a moderate amount of corrosion where the copper
fittings connect to the heater. No leaks.

Now I will say this. the tank you have now [ 10 years old ]
is probley in better condition than any new one you would
buy today. Why trade off a good piece of equipment to
install the newer piece of trash they have today.

What have they done to the newer heaters to make them worse? I just
replaced a leaky Rheem from the early 1990s with a State.

Vacation home Go Tankless. Bosch , Takagi and Rinnai are tops

"larry moe 'n curly" wrote in message
oups.com...

TURTLE wrote:
"Paul" wrote in message
...

Electric water heater is an A.O. Smith 40 gallon "low-boy"
(short and fat) about 10 years old.
from what I see, no dielectric unions
I see a moderate amount of corrosion where the copper
fittings connect to the heater. No leaks.

Now I will say this. the tank you have now [ 10 years old ]
is probley in better condition than any new one you would
buy today. Why trade off a good piece of equipment to
install the newer piece of trash they have today.

What have they done to the newer heaters to make them worse? I just
replaced a leaky Rheem from the early 1990s with a State.


This is Turtle.

Around 1990 rheem started out with a new type glass liner in hot water tanks and
also in the tried it out on the 1980 to the 1988 model gas furnaces for high
salt water areas and the glass lining of the furnaces would rust out in less
than 10 years. So this glass lining did not work for furnaces , So They decided
to use it on the hot water tanks to keep them from rusting out. they call it now
the Guardian and use to be the Dyno-Glass Something. Now I don't know about the
others too much but i see a bunch of newer model hot water tank being changed
out but see a bunch of old tanks 20 to 40 years of age still running fine. My
fathers and my aunt's tank is a 1973 and a bunch of other people with old tanks
still running good. I also bought a rent house with a Rheem 1968 model hot water
tank in it and it still running fine. I bought my house about 25 years ago and
changed the tank out about 1990 and is now on my 3 th hot water tank since that
time , all Rheem. I , the only one out of the bunch was the dummy who changed
out my good running old Rheem Hot water tank for the sake of heading off trouble
with problem and leaks. Hindsight is alway better than farsight.

TURTLE

As you can tell there is no one right answer for this one.

I suggest you can turn off the power and drain the tank when you are
going to be gone for very long. Just refill it and then turn it back on
when you next return. Not a lot of work and that is safer than a new tank.

--
Joseph Meehan

26 + 6 = 1 It's Irish Math
"Paul" wrote in message
...
Electric water heater is an A.O. Smith 40 gallon "low-boy" (short and fat)
about 10 years old. It's in a Florida condo unit, and from what I see,
no dielectric unions on the copper water lines to and from the heater. I
see a moderate amount of corrosion where the copper fittings connect to
the heater. No leaks. I don't see any rust or particles in the water at
the taps. I think it's a little slow to get hot water out, but not that
unreasonable.

Since this is a winter vacation place and I won't be there 24/7 I'm a
little nervous about the tank letting loose when I'm not there, although
it is on a first floor slab and a drain pan is installed...

If I do replace it, dielectric unions are supposed to be used, correct?

Home Depot's selection all seem to have only a 6 year warranty which seems
to be on the low end. Consumer Reports said that brand doesn't matter,
that the warranty does, i.e., more years = heavier duty tank linings,
insulation, etc.

Your input appreciated !

Thanks.

-- Paul

TURTLE wrote:
"Paul" wrote in message
...

Electric water heater is an A.O. Smith 40 gallon "low-boy" (short and fat)
about 10 years old. It's in a Florida condo unit, and from what I see, no
dielectric unions on the copper water lines to and from the heater. I see a
moderate amount of corrosion where the copper fittings connect to the heater.
No leaks. I don't see any rust or particles in the water at the taps. I
think it's a little slow to get hot water out, but not that unreasonable.

Since this is a winter vacation place and I won't be there 24/7 I'm a little
nervous about the tank letting loose when I'm not there, although it is on a
first floor slab and a drain pan is installed...

If I do replace it, dielectric unions are supposed to be used, correct?

Home Depot's selection all seem to have only a 6 year warranty which seems to
be on the low end. Consumer Reports said that brand doesn't matter, that the
warranty does, i.e., more years = heavier duty tank linings, insulation, etc.

Your input appreciated !

Thanks.

-- Paul


This is Turtle.

I could never really figure out when I was suppose to change something till it
broke and then I knew for sure. Now till all the manufactor start stating in
writting that they should change their stuff out in X number of years. i'm going
to just run my stuff till it breaks and then buy me a new one. Now there is
things that you can't do without but hot water is one you can do without it for
a while.

Now I will say this. the tank you have now [ 10 years old ] is probley in better
condition than any new one you would buy today. Why trade off a good piece of
equipment to install the newer piece of trash they have today.

TURTLE



Yes, there is no reason to replace it. The OP should turn
the supply valve (at the tank) off and turn the electricity
off to the tank if he is going to be gone for days (mainly
for peace of mind). Tanks don't suddenly burst and blow
water all over, they start leaking, so just check it
periodically for leaks. If you want to worry about
something worry about a washer hose bursting.

On Sun, 13 Feb 2005 02:05:04 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
wrote:

TURTLE wrote:
"Paul" wrote in message
...

Electric water heater is an A.O. Smith 40 gallon "low-boy" (short and fat)
about 10 years old. It's in a Florida condo unit, and from what I see, no
dielectric unions on the copper water lines to and from the heater. I see a
moderate amount of corrosion where the copper fittings connect to the heater.
No leaks. I don't see any rust or particles in the water at the taps. I
think it's a little slow to get hot water out, but not that unreasonable.

Since this is a winter vacation place and I won't be there 24/7 I'm a little
nervous about the tank letting loose when I'm not there, although it is on a
first floor slab and a drain pan is installed...

If I do replace it, dielectric unions are supposed to be used, correct?

Home Depot's selection all seem to have only a 6 year warranty which seems to
be on the low end. Consumer Reports said that brand doesn't matter, that the
warranty does, i.e., more years = heavier duty tank linings, insulation, etc.

Your input appreciated !

Thanks.

-- Paul


This is Turtle.

I could never really figure out when I was suppose to change something till it
broke and then I knew for sure. Now till all the manufactor start stating in
writting that they should change their stuff out in X number of years. i'm going
to just run my stuff till it breaks and then buy me a new one. Now there is
things that you can't do without but hot water is one you can do without it for
a while.

Now I will say this. the tank you have now [ 10 years old ] is probley in better
condition than any new one you would buy today. Why trade off a good piece of
equipment to install the newer piece of trash they have today.

TURTLE



Yes, there is no reason to replace it. The OP should turn
the supply valve (at the tank) off and turn the electricity
off to the tank if he is going to be gone for days (mainly
for peace of mind). Tanks don't suddenly burst and blow
water all over, they start leaking, so just check it
periodically for leaks. If you want to worry about
something worry about a washer hose bursting.


I don't know aobut the above statement.
Prerhaps electric water heaters are less likely to burst but I've had
gas water heaters really let go with a gusher.
One blew out thru its flu and a conical shower occured as the water
geysered up to the draft diverter and then showered a circle of water
all over the basement. It was rather impressive, especially when I was
standing in the middle of the shower trying to reach the shutoff walve
to the tank....

A "Turtle" has said, they don't make water heaters like they used to.

I've replaced water heaters made prior to 1970 mainly for reasons of
efficiency as sediment built up in them.
One of my places had a water heater dating back to 1950 that I
replaced in 1995. The A.O. Smith replacement only lasted 7 years
before leaking.

It seems that the old one were made of heavier gauge steel.

Stuff today seems to be designed mainly via computer analysis using
just enough material to do the job.
Overall like span is a secondary consideration.

I saw the same analogy in the maritime world.
Older ships used very thick hull plating. Even after 30 years of
wastage, the plating was often still sound.

Modern ships use high tensile strength steel - thick enough to do the
job but not thick enough to survice years of wasting or corrosion.

Doug

One of my places had a water heater dating back to 1950 that I
replaced in 1995. The A.O. Smith replacement only lasted 7 years
before leaking.

Thanks for another A.O. Smith data point. Seems like 7-10 years is the
magic number.
I am now leaning towards replacing it since:

1. This is an A.O. Smith water heater manufactured about 1993 -- about the
same era as your unit which failed.

2. I had a similar A.O. Smith water heater tank fail in my main home in
year 2000. IIRC it was also manufactured in the early nineties.

-- Paul