I just got a used water heater (consumer electric) and I replaced the
bottom element that burned out because the sediment had collected
enough to cover it. Well, since it was outside, I flushed it all out.
Then I read about the most important factor of a water heaters life in
the anode. I shined a light inside and saw a long rod that looked
like in was suck in the ocean for years, with so much buildup that it
looked bumpy. I took it out and it is a aluminum version, How do I
clean it? lime away and some scraping? My labor is cheaper that
buying new parts or heaters.

davidlaska wrote:
I just got a used water heater (consumer electric) and I replaced the
bottom element that burned out because the sediment had collected
enough to cover it. Well, since it was outside, I flushed it all out.
Then I read about the most important factor of a water heaters life in
the anode. I shined a light inside and saw a long rod that looked
like in was suck in the ocean for years, with so much buildup that it
looked bumpy. I took it out and it is a aluminum version, How do I
clean it? lime away and some scraping? My labor is cheaper that
buying new parts or heaters.


Labor can't replace material. Its called a "sacrificial" anode for a
good reason. See he
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html

--
Grandpa

"davidlaska" wrote in message
oups.com...
I just got a used water heater (consumer electric) and I replaced the
bottom element that burned out because the sediment had collected
enough to cover it. Well, since it was outside, I flushed it all
out.
Then I read about the most important factor of a water heaters life
in
the anode. I shined a light inside and saw a long rod that looked
like in was suck in the ocean for years, with so much buildup that
it
looked bumpy. I took it out and it is a aluminum version, How do I
clean it? lime away and some scraping? My labor is cheaper that
buying new parts or heaters.


Replace it.

Bob

Here's a silly followup question.

Do gas water heaters have an anode too, or just electric?

On Jun 8, 1:15 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
"davidlaska" wrote in message

oups.com...

I just got a used water heater (consumer electric) and I replaced the
bottom element that burned out because the sediment had collected
enough to cover it. Well, since it was outside, I flushed it all
out.
Then I read about the most important factor of a water heaters life
in
the anode. I shined a light inside and saw a long rod that looked
like in was suck in the ocean for years, with so much buildup that
it
looked bumpy. I took it out and it is a aluminum version, How do I
clean it? lime away and some scraping? My labor is cheaper that
buying new parts or heaters.

Replace it.

Bob

looked bumpy. I took it out and it is a aluminum version, How do I
clean it? lime away and some scraping? My labor is cheaper that
buying new parts or heaters.

Replace it.

Bob

so the OP got a used tank hopefully for free...........

by the time he replaces the anode, replaces the elements and cleans
the sludge out of the tank.....

Has he wondered where that sludge came from? Almost certinally from
the inside of the tank which is nearly rotted out

Now he has a old tank, thats less efficent than a new tank with high
efficency foam.

So his tank has cost probably cost nearly as much as a brand new cheap
short warranty tank

On Fri, 08 Jun 2007 17:33:04 -0000, "
wrote:


looked bumpy. I took it out and it is a aluminum version, How do I
clean it? lime away and some scraping? My labor is cheaper that

You can't clean it. It's being eroded away on purpose, to prevent
damage somewhere else.

buying new parts or heaters.
Replace it.
Bob
so the OP got a used tank hopefully for free...........
by the time he replaces the anode, replaces the elements and cleans
the sludge out of the tank.....
Has he wondered where that sludge came from? Almost certinally from
the inside of the tank which is nearly rotted out

I thought the sludge was mostly dissolved minerals in the water, and
that the tank is glass-lined and didn't rot? No?


Now he has a old tank, thats less efficent than a new tank with high
efficency foam.

So his tank has cost probably cost nearly as much as a brand new cheap
short warranty tank

mm wrote in
:

On Fri, 08 Jun 2007 17:33:04 -0000, "
wrote:


looked bumpy. I took it out and it is a aluminum version, How do I
clean it? lime away and some scraping? My labor is cheaper that

You can't clean it. It's being eroded away on purpose, to prevent
damage somewhere else.

buying new parts or heaters.
Replace it.
Bob
so the OP got a used tank hopefully for free...........
by the time he replaces the anode, replaces the elements and cleans
the sludge out of the tank.....
Has he wondered where that sludge came from? Almost certinally from
the inside of the tank which is nearly rotted out

I thought the sludge was mostly dissolved minerals in the water, and
that the tank is glass-lined and didn't rot? No?


Now he has a old tank, thats less efficent than a new tank with high
efficency foam.

So his tank has cost probably cost nearly as much as a brand new cheap
short warranty tank



is the anode aluminum or ZINC?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"Jim Yanik" wrote in message
...
mm wrote in
:

On Fri, 08 Jun 2007 17:33:04 -0000, "
wrote:


looked bumpy. I took it out and it is a aluminum version, How do I
clean it? lime away and some scraping? My labor is cheaper that

You can't clean it. It's being eroded away on purpose, to prevent
damage somewhere else.

buying new parts or heaters.
Replace it.
Bob
so the OP got a used tank hopefully for free...........
by the time he replaces the anode, replaces the elements and cleans
the sludge out of the tank.....
Has he wondered where that sludge came from? Almost certinally from
the inside of the tank which is nearly rotted out

I thought the sludge was mostly dissolved minerals in the water, and
that the tank is glass-lined and didn't rot? No?


Now he has a old tank, thats less efficent than a new tank with high
efficency foam.

So his tank has cost probably cost nearly as much as a brand new cheap
short warranty tank



is the anode aluminum or ZINC?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

The website posted by Grandpa (I think) says Magnesium or Aluminum. Good
site!

I thought the sludge was mostly dissolved minerals in the water, and
that the tank is glass-lined and didn't rot? No?


its rust the glass lining isnt perfect and fails over time which is
why tanks leak.

the fact the anode is eroded away is another indicator that tank is
old and on its last legs.

I love reusing stuff and saving money but this one is a loser....
sorry.

On Jun 8, 1:24?pm, Andrew Duane wrote:
Here's a silly followup question.

Do gas water heaters have an anode too, or just electric?


all metal tanks do.............

wrote in message
ups.com...


I thought the sludge was mostly dissolved minerals in the water,
and
that the tank is glass-lined and didn't rot? No?


its rust the glass lining isnt perfect and fails over time which is
why tanks leak.

the fact the anode is eroded away is another indicator that tank is
old and on its last legs.

I love reusing stuff and saving money but this one is a loser....
sorry.


My understanding is that periodically replaceing the anode can
significantly increase a wateh heaters life.

Bob

"Grandpa" wrote in message news:rdfai.7$pd5.5@trnddc02...
davidlaska wrote:
I just got a used water heater (consumer electric) and I replaced the
bottom element that burned out because the sediment had collected
enough to cover it. Well, since it was outside, I flushed it all out.
Then I read about the most important factor of a water heaters life in
the anode. I shined a light inside and saw a long rod that looked
like in was suck in the ocean for years, with so much buildup that it
looked bumpy. I took it out and it is a aluminum version, How do I
clean it? lime away and some scraping? My labor is cheaper that
buying new parts or heaters.


Labor can't replace material. Its called a "sacrificial" anode for a good
reason. See he
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html

--
Grandpa

Why do they call it an anode?

Labor can't replace material. Its called a "sacrificial" anode for a
good
reason. See he
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html

--
Grandpa

Why do they call it an anode?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodes


I know what an anode is. I also know what a cathode is. But that doesn't
answer my question....I stick this rod in the middle of my water heater -
what makes it an anode, and not a cathode?

Ook wrote:
Labor can't replace material. Its called a "sacrificial" anode for a
good
reason. See he
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html

--
Grandpa
Why do they call it an anode?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodes


I know what an anode is. I also know what a cathode is. But that doesn't
answer my question....I stick this rod in the middle of my water heater -
what makes it an anode, and not a cathode?


Did you read down to the part where it says "sacrificial anode" or
just skip it? It says:
"Sacrificial anode

In cathodic protection, a metal anode that is more reactive to the
corrosive environment of the system to be protected is electrically
linked to the protected system, and partially corrodes or dissolves,
which protects the metal of the system it is connected to. As an
example, an iron or steel ship's hull may be protected by a zinc
sacrificial anode, which will dissolve into the seawater and prevent
the hull from being corroded. Sacrificial anodes are particularly
needed for systems where a static charge is generated by the action
of flowing liquids, such as pipelines and watercraft."

--
Grandpa

Ook wrote:
Labor can't replace material. Its called a "sacrificial" anode for a
good
reason. See he
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html

--
Grandpa
Why do they call it an anode?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodes


I know what an anode is. I also know what a cathode is. But that doesn't
answer my question....I stick this rod in the middle of my water heater -
what makes it an anode, and not a cathode?

Then you don't really "know" what an anode (or cathode) is...

It's an anode if it attracts anions, and a cathode of it attracts
cations...I'm pretty sure that's the definition you know. (DOH! )

Which, of course is sort of a circular definition. What actually makes
it one or the other is the relative position on the scale of electrical
potential of the material from which it is made with respect to the
other material.

--

"Grandpa" wrote in message
news:BREai.307$or4.20@trnddc06...
Ook wrote:
Labor can't replace material. Its called a "sacrificial" anode for a
good
reason. See he
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html

--
Grandpa
Why do they call it an anode?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodes


I know what an anode is. I also know what a cathode is. But that doesn't
answer my question....I stick this rod in the middle of my water heater -
what makes it an anode, and not a cathode?
Did you read down to the part where it says "sacrificial anode" or just
skip it? It says:
"Sacrificial anode

In cathodic protection, a metal anode that is more reactive to the
corrosive environment of the system to be protected is electrically linked
to the protected system, and partially corrodes or dissolves, which
protects the metal of the system it is connected to. As an example, an
iron or steel ship's hull may be protected by a zinc sacrificial anode,
which will dissolve into the seawater and prevent the hull from being
corroded. Sacrificial anodes are particularly needed for systems where a
static charge is generated by the action of flowing liquids, such as
pipelines and watercraft."

--
Grandpa

I read it. It still doesn't explain why it's not a "sacrificial cathode".

Grandpa

I read it. It still doesn't explain why it's not a "sacrificial cathode".

I found the answer:

"Galvanic anodes are designed and selected to have a more "active" voltage
(technically a more negative electrochemical potential) than the metal of
the structure (typically steel). For effective CP, the potential of the
steel surface is polarized (pushed) more negative until the surface has a
uniform potential. At that stage, the driving force for the corrosion
reaction is halted. The galvanic anode continues to corrode, consuming the
anode material until eventually it must be replaced. The polarization is
caused by the current flow from the anode to the cathode. The driving force
for the CP current flow is the difference in electrochemical potential
between the anode and the cathode."
(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection)

Ook wrote:
Labor can't replace material. Its called a "sacrificial" anode for a
good
reason. See he
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html

--
Grandpa
Why do they call it an anode?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodes


I know what an anode is. I also know what a cathode is. But that doesn't
answer my question....I stick this rod in the middle of my water heater -
what makes it an anode, and not a cathode?


If you know what an anode is it is totally obvious why the water heater
anode isn't a cathode.

On Jun 9, 2:45 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
wrote in message

ups.com...







I thought the sludge was mostly dissolved minerals in the water,
and
that the tank is glass-lined and didn't rot? No?

its rust the glass lining isnt perfect and fails over time which is
why tanks leak.

the fact the anode is eroded away is another indicator that tank is
old and on its last legs.

I love reusing stuff and saving money but this one is a loser....
sorry.

My understanding is that periodically replaceing the anode can
significantly increase a wateh heaters life.

Bob- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


And I guess that's the real question. How much longer will one get
from a tank if they do check and replace the anode when it's needed?
It would seem to make sense to me too. I started doing it on my
current water heater which is about 6-7 years old now. The original
anode is about 1/2 gone now. While it seems to make sense and I've
seen lots of opinions, I haven't actually seen any tests or studies
done. Has anyone else?

wrote:
....

And I guess that's the real question. How much longer will one get
from a tank if they do check and replace the anode when it's needed?
It would seem to make sense to me too. I started doing it on my
current water heater which is about 6-7 years old now. The original
anode is about 1/2 gone now. While it seems to make sense and I've
seen lots of opinions, I haven't actually seen any tests or studies
done. Has anyone else?

Far too many variables to be able to do any meaningful tests --
differences in tanks, anode design, water, usage, etc., etc., etc., ...

Best one could do would be a test under a given set of controlled
conditions for a given tank design, but that would have virtually no
value outside that test environment...

--

On Jun 10, 10:37 am, dpb wrote:
wrote:

...

And I guess that's the real question. How much longer will one get
from a tank if they do check and replace the anode when it's needed?
It would seem to make sense to me too. I started doing it on my
current water heater which is about 6-7 years old now. The original
anode is about 1/2 gone now. While it seems to make sense and I've
seen lots of opinions, I haven't actually seen any tests or studies
done. Has anyone else?

Far too many variables to be able to do any meaningful tests --
differences in tanks, anode design, water, usage, etc., etc., etc., ...

Best one could do would be a test under a given set of controlled
conditions for a given tank design, but that would have virtually no
value outside that test environment...

--


If that were the case, then no one would be able to test and evaluate
much of anything. Yet tests are routinely done on a wide variety of
products, aren't they? Consumer Reports, for example, tests
everything from dish washers to paint. And all those depend on a
multitude of factors that can vary widely.

If some simple tests showed that anode monitoring and replacement made
a substantial difference in longevity in a few different tanks and
environments, that would be a lot more substantial that it does work,
as opposed to peoples opinions.

On Jun 10, 2:00?pm, wrote:
On Jun 10, 10:37 am, dpb wrote:





wrote:

...

And I guess that's the real question. How much longer will one get
from a tank if they do check and replace the anode when it's needed?
It would seem to make sense to me too. I started doing it on my
current water heater which is about 6-7 years old now. The original
anode is about 1/2 gone now. While it seems to make sense and I've
seen lots of opinions, I haven't actually seen any tests or studies
done. Has anyone else?

Far too many variables to be able to do any meaningful tests --
differences in tanks, anode design, water, usage, etc., etc., etc., ...

Best one could do would be a test under a given set of controlled
conditions for a given tank design, but that would have virtually no
value outside that test environment...

--

If that were the case, then no one would be able to test and evaluate
much of anything. Yet tests are routinely done on a wide variety of
products, aren't they? Consumer Reports, for example, tests
everything from dish washers to paint. And all those depend on a
multitude of factors that can vary widely.

If some simple tests showed that anode monitoring and replacement made
a substantial difference in longevity in a few different tanks and
environments, that would be a lot more substantial that it does work,
as opposed to peoples opinions.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I wonder if the anode rod really becomes important once the glass
lining has already failed somewhere?

most tank leaks I have had occur around fittings, at seams etc. never
saw one in the middle of a tank.

so my theory is the anode erodes, its erosion driven by everything in
the plumbing system, everywhere theres water.

then the glass lining fails, the anode already partially gone fails,
noted as thin wire laying loose in bottom of tank duiring disection...

then finally the tank leaks.

tanks are so cheap, new ones more efficent, most humans will only buy
one every 10 years or so while owning a home. so at most 5 or 6 tanks
max.......

for me stretching tanks life and perhaps creating leak at anode
connection just isnt worth the risk.

Today I tend to replace tank every 19 years or so before it fails.

that way I pick the time place and cost.

no christmas even blizzard thank you.

the small added cost is worth the bucks, for peace of mind and
convenience

wrote:
On Jun 10, 10:37 am, dpb wrote:
wrote:

...

And I guess that's the real question. How much longer will one get
from a tank if they do check and replace the anode when it's needed?
It would seem to make sense to me too. I started doing it on my
current water heater which is about 6-7 years old now. The original
anode is about 1/2 gone now. While it seems to make sense and I've
seen lots of opinions, I haven't actually seen any tests or studies
done. Has anyone else?
Far too many variables to be able to do any meaningful tests --
differences in tanks, anode design, water, usage, etc., etc., etc., ...

Best one could do would be a test under a given set of controlled
conditions for a given tank design, but that would have virtually no
value outside that test environment...

--


If that were the case, then no one would be able to test and evaluate
much of anything. Yet tests are routinely done on a wide variety of
products, aren't they? Consumer Reports, for example, tests
everything from dish washers to paint. And all those depend on a
multitude of factors that can vary widely.

If some simple tests showed that anode monitoring and replacement made
a substantial difference in longevity in a few different tanks and
environments, that would be a lot more substantial that it does work,
as opposed to peoples opinions.

That's a different question than the one you asked which at least I
interpreted as for a given tank, and more importantly, a given
application (namely your own specific installation).

I think there's little doubt that sacrificial anodes have benefits in
general.

As for the wide-range applicability of CR tests and CR testing
protocols, don't get me started on them (again)...

--

On Fri, 08 Jun 2007 16:12:07 GMT, Grandpa wrote:

Labor can't replace material. Its called a "sacrificial" anode for a
good reason. See he
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html


Thanks for the link. My water heater looks new and hasn't given me
any problems although its almost 30 years old.. The last time I
checked was more than 10 years ago and other than vacuuming up a few
rust scales next to the burners I haven't had to do anything since.
The anode must have been exhausted by now. I'll change it. Maybe it
will do something about the hardwater problem I do have.

In article ,
George wrote:
Ook wrote:
...snipped...
I know what an anode is. I also know what a cathode is. But that doesn't
answer my question....I stick this rod in the middle of my water heater -
what makes it an anode, and not a cathode?


If you know what an anode is it is totally obvious why the water heater
anode isn't a cathode.


Obvious to you and me perhaps. If the rod was made of copper or gold, what
would it be?


--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

"Larry W" wrote in message
...
In article ,
George wrote:
Ook wrote:
...snipped...
I know what an anode is. I also know what a cathode is. But that doesn't
answer my question....I stick this rod in the middle of my water
heater -
what makes it an anode, and not a cathode?


If you know what an anode is it is totally obvious why the water heater
anode isn't a cathode.


Obvious to you and me perhaps. If the rod was made of copper or gold, what
would it be?


I don't understand the relevance of your post. Gold isn't useful as anodic
protection, and I don't even think copper is either in this particular
situation. But what does that have to do with cathodic protection?
Cathodic protection involves the application of electricity to the object,
whereas the current supplies the electrons that normally would be obtained
from the iron in converting iron to iron oxide. In anodic protection the
electrons that normally would be taken from the iron to form iron oxide are
instead taken from the anode - hence the use of something easy to oxidize
like aluminum or zinc.

Larry W wrote:
In article ,
George wrote:
Ook wrote:
...snipped...
I know what an anode is. I also know what a cathode is. But that doesn't
answer my question....I stick this rod in the middle of my water heater -
what makes it an anode, and not a cathode?


If you know what an anode is it is totally obvious why the water heater
anode isn't a cathode.


Obvious to you and me perhaps. If the rod was made of copper or gold, what
would it be?


In a water heater, they would be called a "rod" offering no protection.
--
Grandpa

wrote in message
oups.com...



I wonder if the anode rod really becomes important once the glass
lining has already failed somewhere?

most tank leaks I have had occur around fittings, at seams etc.
never
saw one in the middle of a tank.

so my theory is the anode erodes, its erosion driven by everything
in
the plumbing system, everywhere theres water.

then the glass lining fails, the anode already partially gone fails,
noted as thin wire laying loose in bottom of tank duiring
disection...

I think you have cause and effect reversed here. It seems more likely
that the anode prevents corrosion at the fittings where the glass
doesn't coat. The anode wears out, the rust starts at the fittings,
and continues at the edge of the glass, causing it to flake off.
Replacing the anode prevents the rust, preventing the glass damage.

then finally the tank leaks.

tanks are so cheap, new ones more efficent, most humans will only
buy
one every 10 years or so while owning a home. so at most 5 or 6
tanks
max.......

for me stretching tanks life and perhaps creating leak at anode
connection just isnt worth the risk.

$10 anode vs $200 heater? Hmmm. Let me think.



Today I tend to replace tank every 19 years or so before it fails.

that way I pick the time place and cost.


Every wateh heater leak I've ever seen started as a small drip,
leaving plenty of time to replace at your convenience - if you keep an
eye out for the drips.

Bob

Bob F wrote:
wrote in message
oups.com...


I wonder if the anode rod really becomes important once the glass
lining has already failed somewhere?

most tank leaks I have had occur around fittings, at seams etc.
never
saw one in the middle of a tank.

so my theory is the anode erodes, its erosion driven by everything
in
the plumbing system, everywhere theres water.

then the glass lining fails, the anode already partially gone fails,
noted as thin wire laying loose in bottom of tank duiring
disection...

I think you have cause and effect reversed here. It seems more likely
that the anode prevents corrosion at the fittings where the glass
doesn't coat. The anode wears out, the rust starts at the fittings,
and continues at the edge of the glass, causing it to flake off.
Replacing the anode prevents the rust, preventing the glass damage.
then finally the tank leaks.

tanks are so cheap, new ones more efficent, most humans will only
buy
one every 10 years or so while owning a home. so at most 5 or 6
tanks
max.......

for me stretching tanks life and perhaps creating leak at anode
connection just isnt worth the risk.

$10 anode vs $200 heater? Hmmm. Let me think.

Haven't bought an anode for a while have you? $10???
--
Grandpa

On Jun 11, 11:24?am, "Bob F" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...



I wonder if the anode rod really becomes important once the glass
lining has already failed somewhere?

most tank leaks I have had occur around fittings, at seams etc.
never
saw one in the middle of a tank.

so my theory is the anode erodes, its erosion driven by everything
in
the plumbing system, everywhere theres water.

then the glass lining fails, the anode already partially gone fails,
noted as thin wire laying loose in bottom of tank duiring
disection...

I think you have cause and effect reversed here. It seems more likely
that the anode prevents corrosion at the fittings where the glass
doesn't coat. The anode wears out, the rust starts at the fittings,
and continues at the edge of the glass, causing it to flake off.
Replacing the anode prevents the rust, preventing the glass damage.



then finally the tank leaks.

tanks are so cheap, new ones more efficent, most humans will only
buy
one every 10 years or so while owning a home. so at most 5 or 6
tanks
max.......

for me stretching tanks life and perhaps creating leak at anode
connection just isnt worth the risk.

$10 anode vs $200 heater? Hmmm. Let me think.



Today I tend to replace tank every 19 years or so before it fails.

that way I pick the time place and cost.

Every wateh heater leak I've ever seen started as a small drip,
leaving plenty of time to replace at your convenience - if you keep an
eye out for the drips.

Bob

the last one that failed sprayed water oiut the flue vent, it was a
sudden failure and highly inconvenient on a hoilday weekend, blizzard
weather.

the day I bought it 4 degrees, it was horrible

wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 11, 11:24?am, "Bob F" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...



I wonder if the anode rod really becomes important once the glass
lining has already failed somewhere?

most tank leaks I have had occur around fittings, at seams etc.
never
saw one in the middle of a tank.

so my theory is the anode erodes, its erosion driven by
everything
in
the plumbing system, everywhere theres water.

then the glass lining fails, the anode already partially gone
fails,
noted as thin wire laying loose in bottom of tank duiring
disection...

I think you have cause and effect reversed here. It seems more
likely
that the anode prevents corrosion at the fittings where the glass
doesn't coat. The anode wears out, the rust starts at the fittings,
and continues at the edge of the glass, causing it to flake off.
Replacing the anode prevents the rust, preventing the glass damage.



then finally the tank leaks.

tanks are so cheap, new ones more efficent, most humans will only
buy
one every 10 years or so while owning a home. so at most 5 or 6
tanks
max.......

for me stretching tanks life and perhaps creating leak at anode
connection just isnt worth the risk.

$10 anode vs $200 heater? Hmmm. Let me think.



Today I tend to replace tank every 19 years or so before it
fails.

that way I pick the time place and cost.

Every wateh heater leak I've ever seen started as a small drip,
leaving plenty of time to replace at your convenience - if you keep
an
eye out for the drips.

Bob

the last one that failed sprayed water oiut the flue vent, it was a
sudden failure and highly inconvenient on a hoilday weekend,
blizzard
weather.

the day I bought it 4 degrees, it was horrible

Again, the major cause of failure is corrosion. The anode largely
prevents corrosion as the anode corrodes instead. I'm sure that almost
noone replaces anodes, so a few years after it dissappears, the water
heater fails.

There's a reason they put them in in the first place.

Bob

On Jun 11, 2:58 pm, "Bob F" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...





On Jun 11, 11:24?am, "Bob F" wrote:
wrote in message

groups.com...

I wonder if the anode rod really becomes important once the glass
lining has already failed somewhere?

most tank leaks I have had occur around fittings, at seams etc.
never
saw one in the middle of a tank.

so my theory is the anode erodes, its erosion driven by
everything
in
the plumbing system, everywhere theres water.

then the glass lining fails, the anode already partially gone
fails,
noted as thin wire laying loose in bottom of tank duiring
disection...

I think you have cause and effect reversed here. It seems more
likely
that the anode prevents corrosion at the fittings where the glass
doesn't coat. The anode wears out, the rust starts at the fittings,
and continues at the edge of the glass, causing it to flake off.
Replacing the anode prevents the rust, preventing the glass damage.

then finally the tank leaks.

tanks are so cheap, new ones more efficent, most humans will only
buy
one every 10 years or so while owning a home. so at most 5 or 6
tanks
max.......

for me stretching tanks life and perhaps creating leak at anode
connection just isnt worth the risk.

$10 anode vs $200 heater? Hmmm. Let me think.

Today I tend to replace tank every 19 years or so before it
fails.

that way I pick the time place and cost.

Every wateh heater leak I've ever seen started as a small drip,
leaving plenty of time to replace at your convenience - if you keep
an
eye out for the drips.

Bob

the last one that failed sprayed water oiut the flue vent, it was a
sudden failure and highly inconvenient on a hoilday weekend,
blizzard
weather.

the day I bought it 4 degrees, it was horrible

Again, the major cause of failure is corrosion. The anode largely
prevents corrosion as the anode corrodes instead. I'm sure that almost
noone replaces anodes, so a few years after it dissappears, the water
heater fails.

There's a reason they put them in in the first place.

Bob




The interesting question is whether checking and replacing the anode
beyond what the manufacturer put there really extends the life of the
tank and is worth it. One possibility is that making sure the anode
still has material left does significantly prolong the life. The
other possibility is that the anode size that is put there is
sufficient to prevent premature corrosion failure in most cases. By
that I mean it gets the tank to the service life where other failure
mechanisms become prevalent, so that even if you do replace it, it may
not buy you much more time, because the tank is likely to now fail
from another failure mode that the anode doesn't prevent.

But like I said in my previous post, I've seen lots of opinions on
this, but nothing really backed up with any test data or scientific
analysis.







- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text -

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On Sat, 9 Jun 2007 12:16:35 -0700, "Ook" Ook Don't send me any
freakin' spam at zootal dot com delete the Don't send me any freakin'
spam wrote:


"Grandpa" wrote in message news:rdfai.7$pd5.5@trnddc02...
davidlaska wrote:
I just got a used water heater (consumer electric) and I replaced the
bottom element that burned out because the sediment had collected
enough to cover it. Well, since it was outside, I flushed it all out.
Then I read about the most important factor of a water heaters life in
the anode. I shined a light inside and saw a long rod that looked
like in was suck in the ocean for years, with so much buildup that it
looked bumpy. I took it out and it is a aluminum version, How do I
clean it? lime away and some scraping? My labor is cheaper that
buying new parts or heaters.


Labor can't replace material. Its called a "sacrificial" anode for a good
reason. See he
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/water-heater-anodes.html

--
Grandpa

Why do they call it an anode?


They were invented back in the days they used vacuum tubes, and these
tubes also had an anode. If they added a cathode, that would be one
hell of a tube. If it's an electric water heater, you already have
the filament (the heating elements). Maybe in the future they will
develop a transistorized water heater that also serves as the cpu for
your 100,000 mhz computer. (which is needed to run MS Vista).

On Fri, 08 Jun 2007 08:43:53 -0700, davidlaska
wrote:

I just got a used water heater (consumer electric) and I replaced the
bottom element that burned out because the sediment had collected
enough to cover it. Well, since it was outside, I flushed it all out.
Then I read about the most important factor of a water heaters life in
the anode. I shined a light inside and saw a long rod that looked
like in was suck in the ocean for years, with so much buildup that it
looked bumpy. I took it out and it is a aluminum version, How do I
clean it? lime away and some scraping? My labor is cheaper that
buying new parts or heaters.

By the way, it's probably not aluminum, it's magnesuim. I once took
an old magnesium anode and filed off some dust. Then I put a torch to
the dust (outdoors in a safe place) and watched the fireworks. It
looked sort of like a sparkler.

On Jun 9, 2:21 pm, Grandpa wrote:
Ook wrote:
Labor can't replace material. Its called a "sacrificial" anode for a
good
reason. See he
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/wat...

--
Grandpa
Why do they call it an anode?
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodes

I know what an anode is. I also know what a cathode is. But that doesn't
answer my question....I stick this rod in the middle of mywater heater-
what makes it an anode, and not a cathode?

Did you read down to the part where it says "sacrificial anode" or
just skip it? It says:
"Sacrificial anode

In cathodic protection, a metal anode that is more reactive to the
corrosive environment of the system to be protected is electrically
linked to the protected system, and partially corrodes or dissolves,
which protects the metal of the system it is connected to. As an
example, an iron or steel ship's hull may be protected by a zinc
sacrificial anode, which will dissolve into the seawater and prevent
the hull from being corroded. Sacrificial anodes are particularly
needed for systems where a static charge is generated by the action
of flowing liquids, such as pipelines and watercraft."

--
Grandpa
First: Thanks for the helpful information and links.

The water that was going into the tank had enough rust to make it a
light tea colored. The tank cleaned out very well, I dropped a light
inside at night and saw that the inside was very shinny. The only
corrosion was at the base lip of the steel container. I put
everything back together and added an additional anode. Not of this
is worth it for your average homeowner, but I am retired so my time is
free.

On Jun 9, 2:10 pm, "Ook" Ook Don't send me any freakin' spam at
zootal dot com delete the Don't send me any freakin' spam wrote:
Labor can't replace material. Its called a "sacrificial" anode for a
good
reason. See he
http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/pages/WHRpages/English/Longevity/wat...

--
Grandpa

Why do they call it an anode?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anodes

I know what an anode is. I also know what a cathode is. But that doesn't
answer my question....I stick this rod in the middle of mywater heater-
what makes it an anode, and not a cathode?

Thank you very much for the perfect link, now I know what a worn out
anode looks like, the key to my problem. There was an old water
heater I pulled an anode from, the water heater was old, but never
used.

"davidlaska" wrote in message
Thank you very much for the perfect link, now I know what a worn out
anode looks like, the key to my problem. There was an old water
heater I pulled an anode from, the water heater was old, but never
used.

If you can pull out your anode you're lucky. For some reason, my water
heater was installed such that the incoming pipes block access to the anode.