On Jun 11, 11:24?am, "Bob F" wrote:
wrote in message

oups.com...



I wonder if the anode rod really becomes important once the glass
lining has already failed somewhere?

most tank leaks I have had occur around fittings, at seams etc.
never
saw one in the middle of a tank.

so my theory is the anode erodes, its erosion driven by everything
in
the plumbing system, everywhere theres water.

then the glass lining fails, the anode already partially gone fails,
noted as thin wire laying loose in bottom of tank duiring
disection...

I think you have cause and effect reversed here. It seems more likely
that the anode prevents corrosion at the fittings where the glass
doesn't coat. The anode wears out, the rust starts at the fittings,
and continues at the edge of the glass, causing it to flake off.
Replacing the anode prevents the rust, preventing the glass damage.



then finally the tank leaks.

tanks are so cheap, new ones more efficent, most humans will only
buy
one every 10 years or so while owning a home. so at most 5 or 6
tanks
max.......

for me stretching tanks life and perhaps creating leak at anode
connection just isnt worth the risk.

$10 anode vs $200 heater? Hmmm. Let me think.



Today I tend to replace tank every 19 years or so before it fails.

that way I pick the time place and cost.

Every wateh heater leak I've ever seen started as a small drip,
leaving plenty of time to replace at your convenience - if you keep an
eye out for the drips.

Bob

the last one that failed sprayed water oiut the flue vent, it was a
sudden failure and highly inconvenient on a hoilday weekend, blizzard
weather.

the day I bought it 4 degrees, it was horrible