Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it until I
need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

Thanks.
Walter

Walter Cohen wrote:
Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it
until I need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

Thanks.
Walter

That's the big part. For me I would be sure to hose it off to get any
salt off of it and clean it up. I might spray any exposed metal with some
WS-40 and store it someplace dry and safe.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia 's Muire duit

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
Walter Cohen wrote:
Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it
until I need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

That's the big part. For me I would be sure to hose it off to get any
salt off of it and clean it up. I might spray any exposed metal with some
WS-40 and store it someplace dry and safe.

Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

"Don Phillipson" wrote in message
...
"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
Walter Cohen wrote:
Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it
until I need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

That's the big part. For me I would be sure to hose it off to get
any
salt off of it and clean it up. I might spray any exposed metal with
some
WS-40 and store it someplace dry and safe.

Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)




NO FINGER TIGHT SPARK PLUGS !! I unknowingly started a lawn mower with a
finger tight spark plug. When the spark plug left the cylinder head and
went through the side of my boot I figured "no problem" it will heal. Two
weeks later they amputated my great toe at the first joint.

Bill

On May 6, 2:05 pm, "Walter Cohen" wrote:
Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it until I
need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

Thanks.
Walter

My local mechanic tells me that it's no good to run the machine dry
unless the carb were also emptied. The main risk is from gas turning
to gel in the carb which requires repair. He says that gas used to
have additives (lead) which made them very stable. Now that those
dangerous additives have been removed gasoline has a limited useful
life when stored in small quantities.

He has instructed me that when storing a machine to add a gasoline
stabilizer to whatever gas is left in the machine and then run the
machine at least long enough to get treated gas into the carb. The
stuff is available everwhere. In his opinion it would not be
necessary to run the machine out of gas if this additive is used. It
also wastes gas and pollutes the air uneccessarily.

He also suggested that I add the stuff to all of the gas I use in my
numerous small engines since they are used intermittently. It is not
expensive. They are a busy shop and don't want to see me for somthing
stupid like a clogged carb.

They also suggest dryer sheets in the exhaust pipe to discourage
rodents. One more than one occasion mice have made their home inside
my mowers. Moth balls have also been mentioned as a rodent
repellent. Just don't forget that they are in there!

"Berkshire Bill" wrote in message
news:463e6b88$0$4642

Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)




NO FINGER TIGHT SPARK PLUGS !! I unknowingly started a lawn mower with a
finger tight spark plug. When the spark plug left the cylinder head and
went through the side of my boot I figured "no problem" it will heal. Two
weeks later they amputated my great toe at the first joint.

Bill



....and I'd say the same to the suggestion to "drain the oil". Bad idea -
you will forget, and it will be expensive when you're reminded by the
shrieking sound of bent, busted piston & valves.

"Bob M." wrote in message
. ..

"Berkshire Bill" wrote in message
news:463e6b88$0$4642

Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)




NO FINGER TIGHT SPARK PLUGS !! I unknowingly started a lawn mower with a
finger tight spark plug. When the spark plug left the cylinder head and
went through the side of my boot I figured "no problem" it will heal.
Two weeks later they amputated my great toe at the first joint.

Bill



...and I'd say the same to the suggestion to "drain the oil". Bad idea -
you will forget, and it will be expensive when you're reminded by the
shrieking sound of bent, busted piston & valves.
What is this "oil" you speak of? If he burnt off all the gas, where would
there be oil?

Sorry about your toe! I wouldn't have expected that to happen; it must have
been very loose.

"Toller" wrote in message
...

What is this "oil" you speak of? If he burnt off all the gas, where would
there be oil?

Every snowblower that I have seen was 4-stroke
not 2-stroke. 4-stroke engines have oil in a sump
under the crankshaft (and a drain plug below.)

NO FINGER TIGHT SPARK PLUGS !! I unknowingly started a lawn mower with
a
finger tight spark plug. When the spark plug left the cylinder head
and
went through the side of my boot I figured "no problem" it will heal.
Two weeks later they amputated my great toe at the first joint.

When the plug is replaced finger tight for winter
storage, the spark lead remains disconnected -- so
must be reconnected before the magneto can work.
In any case, a good startup routine includes cleaning
and regapping the plug at the beginning of the season.

...and I'd say the same to the suggestion to "drain the oil". Bad
idea -
you will forget, and it will be expensive when you're reminded by the
shrieking sound of bent, busted piston & valves.

Small 4-stroke engines make the oil dirtier faster than
do automobile engines, i.e. the oil should be replaced
once a year. This means (1) draining the oil (from a
warm engine) at the end of seasonal use, (2) refilling with
clean oil either immediately (for winter storage) or first thing
next season (when we also regap the plug or fit a new plug.)

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

Charlie Morgan wrote:
On 6 May 2007 17:45:06 -0700, Lawrence wrote:


I use Sta-Bil in all gas for my many small engines, and That's ALL I do. One
ounce for every 2.5 gallons. No draining of carbs, no running them dry. I just
took my lawnmower out yesterday after sitting for 6 months. pushed the primer 3
times, pulled the rope once and off I went. I use Sta-Bil in all gas for both 2
and 4 stroke engines. Screw all the "storage instructions". It's all baloney,
except possibly using a fogging oil. I do that for some of the bigger motors,
but I can't say it really does anything useful. I have 30 year old small engines
that have never been fogged and they still run just fine.

CWM

Same here, I add some stabil and run for a few minutes and the machine
is ready for storage with no problems when it comes out of storage.

Since you have a two stroke engine (gas and oil) I would run it dry.
I would recommend first getting all the gas out of the gas tank. From
there run it dry.
Make sure to use the choke on it when it starts to sputter. Now
some motors have a drain screw or plug on the bottom of the carb. You
need to get
that out too.

Annual maint. should be check and clean the plug as well as grease it
up. If the unit is fairly new I wouldnt worry yet about the rubber
paddles or the auger belt.
If you have "never seize" (silver stuff) I would recommend putting it
on the threads of the spark plug. Make sure not to overtighten that
spark plug!

The problem with gas is that when it gets old it starts to gel.
Clogs up everything. Now with two cycle gas, the oil in there
seperates and basically becomes a nasty black tar. Real pain to get
it all out. Many many cans of Gumout to clean out a gas tank and
carb.

If you have an older snowblower with a steel gas tank I would
recommend leaving gas in there to prevent rust from forming inside of
it. Stabil works ok. Some like it, others dont. I have used it one
on some motors with success. If you do go the stabil route, you
should periodically run the engine to make sure its happy. Nothing
like a tool failing right when you need it.

Tom

P.S. On a 4 cycle motor, dont forget to change that motor oil!




On May 6, 3:05 pm, "Walter Cohen" wrote:
Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it until I
need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

Thanks.
Walter

(Don Phillipson) wrote in
:

"Toller" wrote in message
...

What is this "oil" you speak of? If he burnt off all the gas,
where would there be oil?

Every snowblower that I have seen was 4-stroke
not 2-stroke. 4-stroke engines have oil in a sump
under the crankshaft (and a drain plug below.)

From the original post in this thread:

"The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil."

My own snowthrower has a 2-cycle engine.

--
Bert Hyman | St. Paul, MN |

"Toller" wrote in message
...

"Bob M." wrote in message
. ..

"Berkshire Bill" wrote in message
news:463e6b88$0$4642

Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)




NO FINGER TIGHT SPARK PLUGS !! I unknowingly started a lawn mower with
a finger tight spark plug. When the spark plug left the cylinder head
and went through the side of my boot I figured "no problem" it will
heal. Two weeks later they amputated my great toe at the first joint.

Bill



...and I'd say the same to the suggestion to "drain the oil". Bad idea -
you will forget, and it will be expensive when you're reminded by the
shrieking sound of bent, busted piston & valves.
What is this "oil" you speak of? If he burnt off all the gas, where would
there be oil?

Sorry about your toe! I wouldn't have expected that to happen; it must
have been very loose.
Do like they do in the military- use zip ties/baling wire, and big colored
tags, to mark any oil sumps and POL tanks that have been drained, so the
poor SOB that pulls it out of storage years later has a clue what is going
on. Hell, the older I get, the more yellow sticky notes I use to leave
reminders to myself.

aem sends....

On May 7, 9:17 pm, "aemeijers" wrote:
"Toller" wrote in message

...





"Bob M." wrote in message
...

"Berkshire Bill" wrote in message
news:463e6b88$0$4642

Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

NO FINGER TIGHT SPARK PLUGS !! I unknowingly started a lawn mower with
a finger tight spark plug. When the spark plug left the cylinder head
and went through the side of my boot I figured "no problem" it will
heal. Two weeks later they amputated my great toe at the first joint.

Bill

...and I'd say the same to the suggestion to "drain the oil". Bad idea -
you will forget, and it will be expensive when you're reminded by the
shrieking sound of bent, busted piston & valves.
What is this "oil" you speak of? If he burnt off all the gas, where would
there be oil?

Sorry about your toe! I wouldn't have expected that to happen; it must
have been very loose.

Do like they do in the military- use zip ties/baling wire, and big colored
tags, to mark any oil sumps and POL tanks that have been drained, so the
poor SOB that pulls it out of storage years later has a clue what is going
on. Hell, the older I get, the more yellow sticky notes I use to leave
reminders to myself.

aem sends....- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Even better, just change the oil at the end of the season and put in
new oil, which is what I do. I don't know of any engine manufacturer
that recommends storing an engine with no oil in it. An empty sump is
just more air space for condensation to take place. Plus, I don;t see
what the preceived advantage to leaving it empty would be.

On May 9, 8:34 am, wrote:
On May 7, 9:17 pm, "aemeijers" wrote:





"Toller" wrote in message

...

"Bob M." wrote in message
...

"Berkshire Bill" wrote in message
news:463e6b88$0$4642

Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

NO FINGER TIGHT SPARK PLUGS !! I unknowingly started a lawn mower with
a finger tight spark plug. When the spark plug left the cylinder head
and went through the side of my boot I figured "no problem" it will
heal. Two weeks later they amputated my great toe at the first joint.

Bill

...and I'd say the same to the suggestion to "drain the oil". Bad idea -
you will forget, and it will be expensive when you're reminded by the
shrieking sound of bent, busted piston & valves.
What is this "oil" you speak of? If he burnt off all the gas, where would
there be oil?

Sorry about your toe! I wouldn't have expected that to happen; it must
have been very loose.

Do like they do in the military- use zip ties/baling wire, and big colored
tags, to mark any oil sumps and POL tanks that have been drained, so the
poor SOB that pulls it out of storage years later has a clue what is going
on. Hell, the older I get, the more yellow sticky notes I use to leave
reminders to myself.

aem sends....- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Even better, just change the oil at the end of the season and put in
new oil, which is what I do. I don't know of any engine manufacturer
that recommends storing an engine with no oil in it. An empty sump is
just more air space for condensation to take place. Plus, I don;t see
what the preceived advantage to leaving it empty would be.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The advantage is that untreated gas can go bad over the winter and
clog the tank and the carb requires an inconvenient and possibly
expensive repair.

On May 9, 10:04 am, Lawrence wrote:
On May 9, 8:34 am, wrote:





On May 7, 9:17 pm, "aemeijers" wrote:

"Toller" wrote in message

...

"Bob M." wrote in message
...

"Berkshire Bill" wrote in message
news:463e6b88$0$4642

Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

NO FINGER TIGHT SPARK PLUGS !! I unknowingly started a lawn mower with
a finger tight spark plug. When the spark plug left the cylinder head
and went through the side of my boot I figured "no problem" it will
heal. Two weeks later they amputated my great toe at the first joint.

Bill

...and I'd say the same to the suggestion to "drain the oil". Bad idea -
you will forget, and it will be expensive when you're reminded by the
shrieking sound of bent, busted piston & valves.
What is this "oil" you speak of? If he burnt off all the gas, where would
there be oil?

Sorry about your toe! I wouldn't have expected that to happen; it must
have been very loose.

Do like they do in the military- use zip ties/baling wire, and big colored
tags, to mark any oil sumps and POL tanks that have been drained, so the
poor SOB that pulls it out of storage years later has a clue what is going
on. Hell, the older I get, the more yellow sticky notes I use to leave
reminders to myself.

aem sends....- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Even better, just change the oil at the end of the season and put in
new oil, which is what I do. I don't know of any engine manufacturer
that recommends storing an engine with no oil in it. An empty sump is
just more air space for condensation to take place. Plus, I don;t see
what the preceived advantage to leaving it empty would be.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The advantage is that untreated gas can go bad over the winter and
clog the tank and the carb requires an inconvenient and possibly
expensive repair.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


My comments were in regard to draining the oil, ie the lubricating oil
in the sump, not the gas. The preceeding post should have made that
clear, because there was discussion about tagging the engine to make
sure it's not started later with no oil in it. Wouldn't need to do
that if it's the gas tank. Very few snowblowers are even 2 stroke.

On May 9, 10:53 am, wrote:
On May 9, 10:04 am, Lawrence wrote:





On May 9, 8:34 am, wrote:

On May 7, 9:17 pm, "aemeijers" wrote:

"Toller" wrote in message

...

"Bob M." wrote in message
...

"Berkshire Bill" wrote in message
news:463e6b88$0$4642

Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

NO FINGER TIGHT SPARK PLUGS !! I unknowingly started a lawn mower with
a finger tight spark plug. When the spark plug left the cylinder head
and went through the side of my boot I figured "no problem" it will
heal. Two weeks later they amputated my great toe at the first joint.

Bill

...and I'd say the same to the suggestion to "drain the oil". Bad idea -
you will forget, and it will be expensive when you're reminded by the
shrieking sound of bent, busted piston & valves.
What is this "oil" you speak of? If he burnt off all the gas, where would
there be oil?

Sorry about your toe! I wouldn't have expected that to happen; it must
have been very loose.

Do like they do in the military- use zip ties/baling wire, and big colored
tags, to mark any oil sumps and POL tanks that have been drained, so the
poor SOB that pulls it out of storage years later has a clue what is going
on. Hell, the older I get, the more yellow sticky notes I use to leave
reminders to myself.

aem sends....- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Even better, just change the oil at the end of the season and put in
new oil, which is what I do. I don't know of any engine manufacturer
that recommends storing an engine with no oil in it. An empty sump is
just more air space for condensation to take place. Plus, I don;t see
what the preceived advantage to leaving it empty would be.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The advantage is that untreated gas can go bad over the winter and
clog the tank and the carb requires an inconvenient and possibly
expensive repair.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My comments were in regard to draining the oil, ie the lubricating oil
in the sump, not the gas. The preceeding post should have made that
clear, because there was discussion about tagging the engine to make
sure it's not started later with no oil in it. Wouldn't need to do
that if it's the gas tank. Very few snowblowers are even 2 stroke.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

oops my mistake. I admit I have never seen a two-stroke snow-blower
either. Right now they are trying to use as little of them as
possible. Chain saws and weed whacker are the only two stroke
machines I see anymore. A lot of Motercyles and lawm mowers use to be
but I don't see them anymore. Outboard motors are still made as a two
stroke but I think they are phasing them out. For weight to power
ratio the 2-stroke is superior to the 4-stroke but I guess they are
worse for the environment and inconvenient for the consumer having to
mix the fuel. My chain saw and weed whacker are 2-stroke, love em.

Ok, so then it sounds like I could put a few drops of oil in the plug
opening and pull the starter a few times, then replace the plug.
What do you think about me leaving the gas/oil tank filler cap off for a day
to evaporate any small amount of gas/oil (oil won't evaporate but the gas
will).

Thanks,
Walter
wrote in message
ups.com...
Since you have a two stroke engine (gas and oil) I would run it dry.
I would recommend first getting all the gas out of the gas tank. From
there run it dry.
Make sure to use the choke on it when it starts to sputter. Now
some motors have a drain screw or plug on the bottom of the carb. You
need to get
that out too.

Annual maint. should be check and clean the plug as well as grease it
up. If the unit is fairly new I wouldnt worry yet about the rubber
paddles or the auger belt.
If you have "never seize" (silver stuff) I would recommend putting it
on the threads of the spark plug. Make sure not to overtighten that
spark plug!

The problem with gas is that when it gets old it starts to gel.
Clogs up everything. Now with two cycle gas, the oil in there
seperates and basically becomes a nasty black tar. Real pain to get
it all out. Many many cans of Gumout to clean out a gas tank and
carb.

If you have an older snowblower with a steel gas tank I would
recommend leaving gas in there to prevent rust from forming inside of
it. Stabil works ok. Some like it, others dont. I have used it one
on some motors with success. If you do go the stabil route, you
should periodically run the engine to make sure its happy. Nothing
like a tool failing right when you need it.

Tom

P.S. On a 4 cycle motor, dont forget to change that motor oil!




On May 6, 3:05 pm, "Walter Cohen" wrote:
Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it until I
need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

Thanks.
Walter

On May 9, 8:00 pm, "Walter Cohen" wrote:
Ok, so then it sounds like I could put a few drops of oil in the plug
opening and pull the starter a few times, then replace the plug.
What do you think about me leaving the gas/oil tank filler cap off for a day
to evaporate any small amount of gas/oil (oil won't evaporate but the gas
will).

Use Stabil as suggested and forget about the tank and the fuel.

On 10 May 2007 07:14:08 -0700, Lawrence
wrote:

On May 9, 8:00 pm, "Walter Cohen" wrote:
Ok, so then it sounds like I could put a few drops of oil in the plug
opening and pull the starter a few times, then replace the plug.
What do you think about me leaving the gas/oil tank filler cap off for a day
to evaporate any small amount of gas/oil (oil won't evaporate but the gas
will).

Use Stabil as suggested and forget about the tank and the fuel.

Go out to your local airport, general aviation, and bring a a couple 2
gal gas cam and purchase 2 gals of 100LL avgas.

Drain out your snowblower gas, put it in the car. Then put in about a
pint or so of 100LL and run the machine until it's running on the LL,
should be about 5 mins or so. DONE

It will start as if you didn't store it at all. This same proceedure
can be used in all small engines including those using pre mix. With
premix make sure it mixes well before use.

Charlie Morgan wrote:


Although avgas is more stable than automotive gasoline, it has many
disadvantages, including that it will cause the engine to run lean,
which is very hard on the engine. Airplane engines operate with very
specific parameters that are not at all the same as small, high reving
yard equipment. Regular automotive pump gas with Sta-bil added to it
remains stable for longer than avgas, and has none of the
disadvantages.

CWM


I know a few people who discovered that the hard way when valves burned
out in their car engines. That was in the days when there was little
difference in price between avgas and mogas and they had access to it so
they used it in their cars.

Also even though it is "low lead" it has considerably more lead than any
automotive fuels ever had.

I also vote for Stabil and have used it for years.

Three out of four of Don's suggestions are spot on, and number 3 is
especially important, but:

Don't drain the oil from the sump.

Next October / November, as you get it ready for the snow season,
get it started and run it 10 or so minutes in neutral to get the oil
hot.

Shut it down, drai the oil and refill with clean new lube oil of whatever
grade the mfgr recommends.

To get it unning after strage, you'll want to put in a new plug.
You may also want to spray a bunch of "Start Fluid" (ether)
or carb cleaner into the cylinder while the old plug is out
and before puting the new plug in, and pull the engine over
once or twice, to clean the oil residue from the cylinder / pistons.

Don Phillipson wrote:
"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...

Walter Cohen wrote:

Never had a gas powered snow blower until now. How do I store it
until I need it next winter?
The engine takes a mixture of gas and oil.
I already ran it until the engine died for lack of fuel.
What else do I need to do (i.e. with the spark plug, etc)

That's the big part. For me I would be sure to hose it off to get any
salt off of it and clean it up. I might spray any exposed metal with some
WS-40 and store it someplace dry and safe.


Emptying gas tank and carburettor are primary.
I also (2) empty the oil sump;
(3) remove spark plug, squirt a few drops of oil
in the hole and pull manual starter once (to
distribute oil on cylinder walls, and replace
the spark plug only finger tight;
(4) store under cover from the weather.