This is So.Calif West LA area..

I need two dangerous side steps replaced. They are concrete; go way
back before I bought the house. One is 9" high; the other is the
usual 6". That first step is awkward, even for a normal-sized person,
and I am very short. People have taken a dive on those steps.

I have back back and had shoulder surgery. Can't risk a fall.

The City has given me a grant for approx. $4k+ but I can't find a
contractor to do the job; called quite a few in the phone book.

Is job that small that nobody is interested? Or? Somebody said they
don't like jobs where a City pays, but I tried to tell them that the
paperwork totally protects them; I've seen it.

If any contractor in the area is interested, please post and tell me
where to contact you.

Tx

Aspasia

aspasia wrote in message
...
|
| This is So.Calif West LA area..
|
| I need two dangerous side steps replaced. They are concrete; go way
| back before I bought the house. One is 9" high; the other is the
| usual 6". That first step is awkward, even for a normal-sized person,
| and I am very short. People have taken a dive on those steps.


I take it
the 9" step is the bottom step?
of course it is............................
remove and rebuild them.
it's not worth the time to cut and grind.



|
| I have back back and had shoulder surgery. Can't risk a fall.
|
| The City has given me a grant for approx. $4k+ but I can't find a
| contractor to do the job; called quite a few in the phone book.
|
| Is job that small that nobody is interested? Or? Somebody said they
| don't like jobs where a City pays, but I tried to tell them that the
| paperwork totally protects them; I've seen it.
|
| If any contractor in the area is interested, please post and tell me
| where to contact you.
|
| Tx
|
| Aspasia
|
|
|

On Mar 21, 5:49 am, aspasia wrote:
This is So.Calif West LA area..

I need two dangerous side steps replaced. They are concrete; go way
back before I bought the house. One is 9" high; the other is the
usual 6". That first step is awkward, even for a normal-sized person,
and I am very short. People have taken a dive on those steps.

I have back back and had shoulder surgery. Can't risk a fall.

The City has given me a grant for approx. $4k+ but I can't find a
contractor to do the job; called quite a few in the phone book.

Is job that small that nobody is interested? Or? Somebody said they
don't like jobs where a City pays, but I tried to tell them that the
paperwork totally protects them; I've seen it.

If any contractor in the area is interested, please post and tell me
where to contact you.

Tx

Aspasia

I don't know why you haven't found someone interested in the job.
It should be quick and straight forward - unless there is some
condition you haven't mentioned.
There are - in my area - precast steps.
Perhaps wooden steps.

Do you think the concrete has sunk into the ground or has the ground
level changed?

Steps, by code, should have a landing at door and have the same riser
and tread dimensions consistently.

T

On 21 Mar 2007 04:42:46 -0700, wrote:

On Mar 21, 5:49 am, aspasia wrote:
This is So.Calif West LA area..

I need two dangerous side steps replaced. They are concrete; go way
back before I bought the house. One is 9" high; the other is the
usual 6". That first step is awkward, even for a normal-sized person,
and I am very short. People have taken a dive on those steps.

I have back back and had shoulder surgery. Can't risk a fall.

The City has given me a grant for approx. $4k+ but I can't find a
contractor to do the job; called quite a few in the phone book.

Is job that small that nobody is interested? Or? Somebody said they
don't like jobs where a City pays, but I tried to tell them that the
paperwork totally protects them; I've seen it.

If any contractor in the area is interested, please post and tell me
where to contact you.

Tx

Aspasia

I don't know why you haven't found someone interested in the job.
It should be quick and straight forward - unless there is some
condition you haven't mentioned.

No, my message was totally upfront. Maybe the area where
I live is too "affluent" for a small job? Wish I shared in the
"affluence"!

I don't know where else to research contractors, other than
the yellow pages.

**********Any suggestions VERY welcome.****************

There are - in my area - precast steps.
Perhaps wooden steps.

Do you think the concrete has sunk into the ground or has the ground
level changed?

No. There has always been a 3" difference between top step and bottom
step in the decades I have owned the house. It just didn't become an
issue until my accident/surgery/do not fall problems arose.

Who knows how/when/why these concrete steps were so
stupidly made?

Steps, by code, should have a landing at door and have the same riser
and tread dimensions consistently.

Right. No landing at door; dimensions inconsistent.

Aspasia

On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 06:24:49 -0400, "3G" wrote:


aspasia wrote in message
m...
|
| This is So.Calif West LA area..
|
| I need two dangerous side steps replaced. They are concrete; go way
| back before I bought the house. One is 9" high; the other is the
| usual 6". That first step is awkward, even for a normal-sized person,
| and I am very short. People have taken a dive on those steps.


I take it
the 9" step is the bottom step?
of course it is............................

No! 9" is the TOP step! Very awkward/dangerous to navigate.

remove and rebuild them.
it's not worth the time to cut and grind.

That's what I want -- to remove and rebuild, pref. with wood.
I was never suggesting "cut and grind".

My problem is locating a contractor.

Aspasia



|
| I have back back and had shoulder surgery. Can't risk a fall.
|
| The City has given me a grant for approx. $4k+ but I can't find a
| contractor to do the job; called quite a few in the phone book.
|
| Is job that small that nobody is interested? Or? Somebody said they
| don't like jobs where a City pays, but I tried to tell them that the
| paperwork totally protects them; I've seen it.
|
| If any contractor in the area is interested, please post and tell me
| where to contact you.
|
| Tx
|
| Aspasia
|
|
|

aspasia wrote in :

On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 06:24:49 -0400, "3G" wrote:
aspasia wrote in message
remove and rebuild them.
it's not worth the time to cut and grind.

That's what I want -- to remove and rebuild, pref. with wood.
I was never suggesting "cut and grind".

My problem is locating a contractor.

Look for a handyman. We tackle smaller jobs like this all the time.
Contractors don't like to mess with jobs under $10K because theres so much
cost in the setup.

Ask for references and check them out before you hire someone.

This isn't a repair, so he'll have to pull a permit with the city. This is a
good thing, since they'll make sure he meets code.

If I were doing it in the Fort Worth area, I'd guess the cost would be around
$1000. This includes hauling away the old concrete and building a stoop with
two steps and a railing. Your code might not require the railing, but I'd
want it anyway. (I didn't do an actual calculation here. Make your guy give
you a written estimate up front.)

On 21 Mar 2007 21:53:53 GMT, Steve wrote:

aspasia wrote in :

On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 06:24:49 -0400, "3G" wrote:
aspasia wrote in message
remove and rebuild them.
it's not worth the time to cut and grind.

That's what I want -- to remove and rebuild, pref. with wood.
I was never suggesting "cut and grind".

My problem is locating a contractor.

Look for a handyman. We tackle smaller jobs like this all the time.
Contractors don't like to mess with jobs under $10K because theres so much
cost in the setup.

Ask for references and check them out before you hire someone.

This isn't a repair, so he'll have to pull a permit with the city. This is a
good thing, since they'll make sure he meets code.

If I were doing it in the Fort Worth area, I'd guess the cost would be around
$1000. This includes hauling away the old concrete and building a stoop with
two steps and a railing. Your code might not require the railing, but I'd
want it anyway. (I didn't do an actual calculation here. Make your guy give
you a written estimate up front.)

Well, you did give me an idea. Maybe the City doesn't require him (or
her) to be a licensed contractor. I was thinking they had to be,
because it would be paid for by a City grant (senior stuff).

The City allocated $4000 for the job, but the ONLY bid I was able
to get was from a female head of a minority construction company not
in this area, and it ran $625 over.

Nothing developed for over a year, and then I got an inquiry from
whoever drew up the bid papers -- they're somehow connected with the
City (don't ask; I don't even understand it!) So now I am trying to
find out if the bid is still alive, and if not, go back on the hunt
for a contractor/handyman/whatever.

Sigh!

I originally asked the group if they knew of a way to locate a
person to do the job, other than the Yellow Pages.

Still asking...any thoughts on where to look? I really don't want to
lose the City funds, and I sure as hell need to fix those steps,
but I can't afford it out of pocket.

Aspasia

On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 22:28:11 -0700, aspasia wrote:


Well, you did give me an idea. Maybe the City doesn't require him (or
her) to be a licensed contractor. I was thinking they had to be,

Check on that.

because it would be paid for by a City grant (senior stuff).

The City allocated $4000 for the job, but the ONLY bid I was able
to get was from a female head of a minority construction company not
in this area, and it ran $625 over.

For 4600 dollars it ought to have air conditioning and a
merry-go-round.

Nothing developed for over a year, and then I got an inquiry from
whoever drew up the bid papers -- they're somehow connected with the
City (don't ask; I don't even understand it!) So now I am trying to
find out if the bid is still alive, and if not, go back on the hunt
for a contractor/handyman/whatever.

Sigh!

I originally asked the group if they knew of a way to locate a
person to do the job, other than the Yellow Pages.

References from neighbors, Look under Handymen in the yellow pages?
Newspaper classified, Craig's list

Still asking...any thoughts on where to look? I really don't want to
lose the City funds, and I sure as hell need to fix those steps,
but I can't afford it out of pocket.

Aspasia

On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 12:30:22 -0700, aspasia wrote:


I don't know why you haven't found someone interested in the job.
It should be quick and straight forward - unless there is some
condition you haven't mentioned.

No, my message was totally upfront.

Even upfront messages often leave things out. In fact, hardly anyone
gives all the relevant fact the first time they post, and it's pretty
frustrating sometimes.

Maybe the area where
I live is too "affluent" for a small job? Wish I shared in the
"affluence"!

Maybe. I live in the suburbs and it's not even a rich suburb by any
means. Yet when I wanted my car's catalytic converter repaired
instead of replaced, no one wanted to do it. (well I only asked
two).**

So I drove 5 miles away, closer to downtown, and the first shop I
tried was happy to do it. **** They did complete exhaust systems too,
but they didn't shirk from repair work. They took me right away too,
and did a good job.

Anyhow, repairmen have trucks and will travel. Maybe go to a hardware
store in your or a less ritzy n'hood and look on the bulletin board.

But look at the other things he has done. My ex-girlfriend has a
series of guys who work for her, cleaning out and/or painting the
units at the ministorage she runs, repairing the roof, even repairing
the walls when a car hits it (although maybe she hires a pro for
that.) So I needed my roof repaired and she gave me a name, I bought
a full 4x8 sheet of plywood but he just cut out a piece a third that
size that eventually I found was a bit smaller than the hole. I bought
tar paper and plenty of shingles, too. Instead of starting the
shingles from the edge of the roof and working in, he must have
started from the last good shingle and worked out, so there were 2
inches of shingle hanging over the edge of the roof***, and it leaked
just as bad after he was done as before. He chose the price, and he
could have chosen a higher price if time was the issue, but I guess he
just didn't know how to do better. I didn't know it was still leaking
when I paid him, and because it was a roof, I didn't watch as he did
it. In fact if it weren't a roof, I would have done it myself.

At my request he went up and trimmed the extra shingle off but still
left a ragged inch or half inch. Would have been so easy to start
from the edge and work in. I"m not disappointed in her, and I should
have gone to see other things he did. But I was in a bad mood, or I
would have had my whole roof done by a pro at that time.

***The shingles coming over the edgelooked just like the roofs on
homemade sheds and old run down houses. Is this a tradition?





****The pipe was cracking, an inch or two from the converter iirc.

So I drove 5 miles away and the first shop I tried was happy to do
it. One bead sealed it but he put on two beads all the way around,
and charged 75 dollars for a half hours work (still making plenty of
money) and I tipped him 10 dollars. Better than paying 400+. It
lasted 2 or 3 years until I junked the car.

BTW, is it legal to repair the converter? When it is only the pipe
that is broken?

On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 12:32:02 -0700, aspasia wrote:

On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 06:24:49 -0400, "3G" wrote:


aspasia wrote in message
om...
|
| This is So.Calif West LA area..
|
| I need two dangerous side steps replaced. They are concrete; go way
| back before I bought the house. One is 9" high; the other is the
| usual 6". That first step is awkward, even for a normal-sized person,
| and I am very short. People have taken a dive on those steps.


I take it
the 9" step is the bottom step?
of course it is............................

No! 9" is the TOP step! Very awkward/dangerous to navigate.

remove and rebuild them.
it's not worth the time to cut and grind.

That's what I want -- to remove and rebuild, pref. with wood.
I was never suggesting "cut and grind".

My problem is locating a contractor.

You don't need a contractor. YOu need a 1.5" thick
slab of wood on top of the bottom step. That
will get you two 1.5" steps, which is about normal.

Actually, you've only mentioned two risers, which
implies only one actual stair? Probably it was
installed midway, and just sank.

"Goedjn" wrote in message
news | On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 12:32:02 -0700, aspasia wrote:
|
| On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 06:24:49 -0400, "3G" wrote:
|
|
| aspasia wrote in message
| om...
| |
| | This is So.Calif West LA area..
| |
| | I need two dangerous side steps replaced. They are concrete; go
way
| | back before I bought the house. One is 9" high; the other is the
| | usual 6". That first step is awkward, even for a normal-sized
person,
| | and I am very short. People have taken a dive on those steps.
|
|
| I take it
| the 9" step is the bottom step?
| of course it is............................
|
| No! 9" is the TOP step! Very awkward/dangerous to navigate.
|
| remove and rebuild them.
| it's not worth the time to cut and grind.
|
| That's what I want -- to remove and rebuild, pref. with wood.
| I was never suggesting "cut and grind".
|
| My problem is locating a contractor.
|
| You don't need a contractor. YOu need a 1.5" thick
| slab of wood on top of the bottom step. That
| will get you two 1.5" steps, which is about normal.


don't you mean two 7.5" risers
why not just add concrete (sand mixture) to the bottom step?

I thought the bottom riser was higher.
the top riser too tall is too easy to fix without removing anything.

I thought there was talk about removing the stairs or is that step.
$4600 for 1 step...........yah right.
1 step (2 risers) would cost about $300 where I come from.


|
| Actually, you've only mentioned two risers, which
| implies only one actual stair? Probably it was
| installed midway, and just sank.
|
|

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 05:07:08 -0400, "3G" wrote:


"Goedjn" wrote in message
news | On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 12:32:02 -0700, aspasia wrote:
|
| On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 06:24:49 -0400, "3G" wrote:
|
|
| aspasia wrote in message
| om...
| |
| | This is So.Calif West LA area..
| |
| | I need two dangerous side steps replaced. They are concrete; go
way
| | back before I bought the house. One is 9" high; the other is the
| | usual 6". That first step is awkward, even for a normal-sized
person,
| | and I am very short. People have taken a dive on those steps.
|
|
| I take it
| the 9" step is the bottom step?
| of course it is............................
|
| No! 9" is the TOP step! Very awkward/dangerous to navigate.
|
| remove and rebuild them.
| it's not worth the time to cut and grind.
|
| That's what I want -- to remove and rebuild, pref. with wood.
| I was never suggesting "cut and grind".
|
| My problem is locating a contractor.
|
| You don't need a contractor. YOu need a 1.5" thick
| slab of wood on top of the bottom step. That
| will get you two 1.5" steps, which is about normal.

Very good. 25 points.

don't you mean two 7.5" risers

I"m sure he does.

why not just add concrete (sand mixture) to the bottom step?

More work. Might not stay attached. Might crumble and be dangerous.

I thought the bottom riser was higher.

Above it says 9 inches. Raise the step below it 1.5" and that will
leave 7.5".

the top riser too tall is too easy to fix without removing anything.

I thought there was talk about removing the stairs or is that step.
$4600 for 1 step...........yah right.
1 step (2 risers) would cost about $300 where I come from.


| Actually, you've only mentioned two risers, which
| implies only one actual stair? Probably it was
| installed midway, and just sank.

Sounds right.
|

On Thu, 22 Mar 2007 05:57:34 -0400, mm
wrote:


So I drove 5 miles away and the first shop I tried was happy to do
it. One bead sealed it but he put on two beads all the way around,
and charged 75 dollars for a half hours work (still making plenty of
money) and I tipped him 10 dollars. Better than paying 400+. It
lasted 2 or 3 years until I junked the car.

That is, it was still fine when I junked the car.

"mm" wrote in message
...
| On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 05:07:08 -0400, "3G" wrote:
|
|
| "Goedjn" wrote in message
| news | | On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 12:32:02 -0700, aspasia wrote:
| |
| | On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 06:24:49 -0400, "3G" wrote:
| |
| |
| | aspasia wrote in message
| | om...
| | |
| | | This is So.Calif West LA area..
| | |
| | | I need two dangerous side steps replaced. They are concrete;
go
| way
| | | back before I bought the house. One is 9" high; the other is
the
| | | usual 6". That first step is awkward, even for a normal-sized
| person,
| | | and I am very short. People have taken a dive on those steps.
| |
| |
| | I take it
| | the 9" step is the bottom step?
| | of course it is............................
| |
| | No! 9" is the TOP step! Very awkward/dangerous to navigate.
| |
| | remove and rebuild them.
| | it's not worth the time to cut and grind.
| |
| | That's what I want -- to remove and rebuild, pref. with wood.
| | I was never suggesting "cut and grind".
| |
| | My problem is locating a contractor.
| |
| | You don't need a contractor. YOu need a 1.5" thick
| | slab of wood on top of the bottom step. That
| | will get you two 1.5" steps, which is about normal.
|
| Very good. 25 points.
|
| don't you mean two 7.5" risers
|
| I"m sure he does.
|
| why not just add concrete (sand mixture) to the bottom step?
|
| More work. Might not stay attached. Might crumble and be dangerous.


more work than removing and replacing
I doubt it.
it will stay attached if installed correctly with pins and wire.






|
| I thought the bottom riser was higher.
|
| Above it says 9 inches. Raise the step below it 1.5" and that will
| leave 7.5".
|
| the top riser too tall is too easy to fix without removing anything.
|
| I thought there was talk about removing the stairs or is that step.
| $4600 for 1 step...........yah right.
| 1 step (2 risers) would cost about $300 where I come from.
|
|
| | Actually, you've only mentioned two risers, which
| | implies only one actual stair? Probably it was
| | installed midway, and just sank.
|
| Sounds right.
| |
|
|

"mm" wrote in message
...
| On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 12:30:22 -0700, aspasia wrote:
|
|
| snipped the story book of the EX
|
| BTW, is it legal to repair the converter?

it is illegal to repair a catalytic converter


| When it is only the pipe that is broken?
|
not illegal to repair the pipe unless it is just clamped on.

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 06:30:53 -0400, "3G" wrote:


"mm" wrote in message
.. .
| On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 12:30:22 -0700, aspasia wrote:
|
|
| snipped the story book of the EX
|
| BTW, is it legal to repair the converter?

it is illegal to repair a catalytic converter

Uh-huh.

| When it is only the pipe that is broken?
|
not illegal to repair the pipe unless it is just clamped on.

Good. It was only the pipe, and the two pieces were welded back
together. No clamp. Not only was the guy careful both times around
(I watched) but the sound then and as long as the car ran indicated
that there was no exhaust leak.

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 14:38:01 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 06:30:53 -0400, "3G" wrote:


"mm" wrote in message
. ..
| On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 12:30:22 -0700, aspasia wrote:
|
|
| snipped the story book of the EX
|
| BTW, is it legal to repair the converter?

it is illegal to repair a catalytic converter

Uh-huh.

| When it is only the pipe that is broken?
|
not illegal to repair the pipe unless it is just clamped on.

Good. It was only the pipe, and the two pieces were welded back
together. No clamp. Not only was the guy careful both times around
(I watched) but the sound then and as long as the car ran indicated
that there was no exhaust leak.

Er...I think you got two threads mixed up.

Aspasia

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 12:08:28 -0700, aspasia wrote:

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 14:38:01 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 06:30:53 -0400, "3G" wrote:


"mm" wrote in message
...
| On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 12:30:22 -0700, aspasia wrote:
|
|
| snipped the story book of the EX
|
| BTW, is it legal to repair the converter?

it is illegal to repair a catalytic converter

Uh-huh.

| When it is only the pipe that is broken?
|
not illegal to repair the pipe unless it is just clamped on.

Good. It was only the pipe, and the two pieces were welded back
together. No clamp. Not only was the guy careful both times around
(I watched) but the sound then and as long as the car ran indicated
that there was no exhaust leak.

Er...I think you got two threads mixed up.

No, no. Same thread. Called "thread creep".

If you recall, the common factor was trying to get things done
inexpensively when you live in an expensive neighborhood.

(not that I do, but it was too expensive to repair a pipe.)

Aspasia

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 06:23:05 -0400, "3G" wrote:


"mm" wrote in message
.. .
| On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 05:07:08 -0400, "3G" wrote:
|
|
| "Goedjn" wrote in message
| news | | On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 12:32:02 -0700, aspasia wrote:
| |
| | On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 06:24:49 -0400, "3G" wrote:
| |
| |
| | aspasia wrote in message
| | om...
| | |
| | | This is So.Calif West LA area..
| | |
| | | I need two dangerous side steps replaced. They are concrete;
go
| way
| | | back before I bought the house. One is 9" high; the other is
the
| | | usual 6". That first step is awkward, even for a normal-sized
| person,
| | | and I am very short. People have taken a dive on those steps.
| |
| |
| | I take it
| | the 9" step is the bottom step?
| | of course it is............................
| |
| | No! 9" is the TOP step! Very awkward/dangerous to navigate.
| |
| | remove and rebuild them.
| | it's not worth the time to cut and grind.
| |
| | That's what I want -- to remove and rebuild, pref. with wood.
| | I was never suggesting "cut and grind".
| |
| | My problem is locating a contractor.
| |
| | You don't need a contractor. YOu need a 1.5" thick
| | slab of wood on top of the bottom step. That
| | will get you two 1.5" steps, which is about normal.
|
| Very good. 25 points.
|
| don't you mean two 7.5" risers
|
| I"m sure he does.
|
| why not just add concrete (sand mixture) to the bottom step?
|
| More work. Might not stay attached. Might crumble and be dangerous.


more work than removing and replacing
I doubt it.
it will stay attached if installed correctly with pins and wire.






|
| I thought the bottom riser was higher.
|
| Above it says 9 inches. Raise the step below it 1.5" and that will
| leave 7.5".
|
| the top riser too tall is too easy to fix without removing anything.
|
| I thought there was talk about removing the stairs or is that step.
| $4600 for 1 step...........yah right.
| 1 step (2 risers) would cost about $300 where I come from.
|
|
| | Actually, you've only mentioned two risers, which
| | implies only one actual stair? Probably it was
| | installed midway, and just sank.
|
| Sounds right.
| |
|
|

Guys, the best way to show the steps is to show them.

I have a couple of step pictures that would make everything clear, but
when I tried to find a binary picture site where to post, I have to
admit I was a little shocked at what was out there.

Anybody suggest a site where I can post the pictures, then
post a message here directing you to site?

tx

Aspasia

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 17:02:11 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 12:08:28 -0700, aspasia wrote:

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 14:38:01 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 06:30:53 -0400, "3G" wrote:


"mm" wrote in message
m...
| On Wed, 21 Mar 2007 12:30:22 -0700, aspasia wrote:
|
|
| snipped the story book of the EX
|
| BTW, is it legal to repair the converter?

it is illegal to repair a catalytic converter

Uh-huh.

| When it is only the pipe that is broken?
|
not illegal to repair the pipe unless it is just clamped on.

Good. It was only the pipe, and the two pieces were welded back
together. No clamp. Not only was the guy careful both times around
(I watched) but the sound then and as long as the car ran indicated
that there was no exhaust leak.

Er...I think you got two threads mixed up.

No, no. Same thread. Called "thread creep".

If you recall, the common factor was trying to get things done
inexpensively when you live in an expensive neighborhood.

(not that I do, but it was too expensive to repair a pipe.)

OK, got it -- but here's what I was taught:

Subject line would read:

Repair broken pipe [was: Replace dangerous side steps]

That way people interested in the new subject can go right to it,
and people interested in the old subject can bypass it. -- all
without breaking the thread.

Aspasia

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 19:24:08 -0700, aspasia wrote:



Guys, the best way to show the steps is to show them.

I have a couple of step pictures that would make everything clear, but

I have a step sister.

And I have a half picure and some full pictures.

when I tried to find a binary picture site where to post, I have to
admit I was a little shocked at what was out there.

Anybody suggest a site where I can post the pictures, then
post a message here directing you to site?

I'm sorry I haven't kept track when others have used them.

tx

Aspasia

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 19:40:47 -0700, aspasia wrote:


No, no. Same thread. Called "thread creep".

If you recall, the common factor was trying to get things done
inexpensively when you live in an expensive neighborhood.

(not that I do, but it was too expensive to repair a pipe.)

OK, got it -- but here's what I was taught:

Subject line would read:

Repair broken pipe [was: Replace dangerous side steps]

I used to do that. And when I change the subject line, I still do
that.

When I read mailing lists, people are always changing the subject line
and it is sometimes a big problem for me because Eudora doesn't sort
by recent thread, only by mailbox. So I almost never change subject
lines in email lists, or even personal correspondence, and that has
carried over to news, even though Agent does sort by thread.

That way people interested in the new subject can go right to it,

Maybe, maybe not. I use Agent, which is about as versatile as could
be, more versatile than any other new program I know, and even if on
occasion it's not, using it points out the issues.

Reading with Agent (which many people use) there are two choices,
1)Start a new thread when subject line changes, and
2)Don't start one when subject changes.

If you choose 2, there is no way to go right to it, because it appears
with all the others and they only have one entry, at the top, that
lists the subject. The entries below it don't give the subject.

If you choose 1, then the new thread starts at the very bottom of the
list, regardless of how far away from the original thread that was.

There were too many times when too many people changed the subject
line, often without even quoting the original subject, and I wanted to
go back to an earlier post in the thread, and couldn't find one.

So I chose 2 and that has solved 1's enormous problem, but it has the
problems I listed.

I've used Netscape a little for news, but not enough to see how it
works on this issue. I guess other news readers could keep a
multi-subject thread in one place, while listing the subject in the
table of contents every time it changed. Does any program do that?

and people interested in the old subject can bypass it. -- all
without breaking the thread.

Aspasia

On Sat, 24 Mar 2007 00:39:20 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 19:24:08 -0700, aspasia wrote:



Guys, the best way to show the steps is to show them.

I have a couple of step pictures that would make everything clear

[...]


OK, I have posted two pictures of the side steps on
alt.binaries.pictures.gardens under the Subject
"Side Steps".

Hope you will check out these pictures and give your
input. So far, I only have one bid for wood steps and
hand rail,which is fine with me. (see earlier in this thread).

TIA for your advice.

Aspasia

On Sun, 25 Mar 2007 18:10:51 -0700, aspasia wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2007 00:39:20 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 19:24:08 -0700, aspasia wrote:



Guys, the best way to show the steps is to show them.

I have a couple of step pictures that would make everything clear

[...]


OK, I have posted two pictures of the side steps on
alt.binaries.pictures.gardens under the Subject
"Side Steps".

OK, they're much bigger than I thought (yet not big enough to put an
intermediate step in like I did with pavers between my stoop and front
door.)

And there are two steps, not one, and the first step didn't sink wrt
the second as the other guy suggested and I thought.

And I guess there are only two risers, but isn't the distance from the
top step to the door sill an important distance too, and it seems as
high as the second riser.

And the first step is not shaped to make it that easy to layer wood on
it. And maybe a layer of cement wouldn't be any harder, but that
brings us back to my previous paragraph and the step from the top step
to the door sill.

A picture is truly worth a thousand words.

Hope you will check out these pictures and give your
input. So far, I only have one bid for wood steps and
hand rail,which is fine with me. (see earlier in this thread).

And was that a reasonable price? Less than your grant? Including I
suppose removal of the first steps. Which I suppose requires breaking
them up first, a nothing job for someone who owns an electric jack
hammer, but more work for someone who has to rent one or do it some
other way.

TIA for your advice.

Your bid might be fine. Is it for two steps or three? I don't have a
computer tape measure, but it seems like you need 3.

If one is shorter than the others, shouldn't it be the lowest step?
Or if it is custom made, will they be the same, even though that might
make each less than standard? People do standard height steps without
thinking.

I have maybe the least experience in many things of anyone here, but
on a good day I have ideas, some zany, and many questions. Here, I
wonder if you can buy a pre-fab 3step cement steps, and how much prep
has to be done to put it in place. And will it sink, when lighter
wooden steps won't. I would think that neither would sink, given that
your current steps have packed the earth down very well.

And what kind of nice railing could be built for prefab cement steps.

And I think wood will require painting every few years, but what bout
that "wood" from recycled plastic they use for decks these days. A
little more expensive but no maintenance required.

BTW, posts fall off binary newsgroups pretty quickly. Before my ISP
changed, it was only 1 or 2 days, I think. NOw they hired a service
to handle their news and went from keeping text posts 6 months to
several years, so it is probably more for binary too, but I don't know
how much. Or other isps.

I had in mind those websites where people post pictures of their
family etc. which apparently are free too, but I have no idea how long
they can stay there. I was looking at one yesterday, and pictures
were disappeaaring while I looked at it. It went from 6 down to 1! I
don't know if age was a reason or not.

So I don't know which are easier to use.


Also, if you get no answers, post again under a new thread with a
somewhat different thread name, so that things come out at the end.

Because this group gets so much traffic, this post was pretty high up
from the bottom, and often I don't see followups that are this far up.
With Agent and maybe other pprograms, even if you start a new thread
with the new thread button, if it is called by the same Subject, it
will thread together and I still will see it only way high up. I call
it the Psychology of Computers, when I try to figure out how programs
I have never used work with my email and news posts.


Aspasia

On Sun, 25 Mar 2007 23:04:33 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Mar 2007 18:10:51 -0700, aspasia wrote:

On Sat, 24 Mar 2007 00:39:20 -0400, mm
wrote:

On Fri, 23 Mar 2007 19:24:08 -0700, aspasia wrote:



Guys, the best way to show the steps is to show them.

I have a couple of step pictures that would make everything clear

[...]


OK, I have posted two pictures of the side steps on
alt.binaries.pictures.gardens under the Subject
"Side Steps".

OK, they're much bigger than I thought (yet not big enough to put an
intermediate step in like I did with pavers between my stoop and front
door.)

And there are two steps, not one, and the first step didn't sink wrt
the second as the other guy suggested and I thought.

And I guess there are only two risers, but isn't the distance from the
top step to the door sill an important distance too, and it seems as
high as the second riser.

Riser from top step to second step is 9". (It's only supposed to be
6".) Bottom riser is 6".

Also, I think there's supposed to be some kind of landing on top,
which I would like them to make, if I ever get the job done.

And the first step is not shaped to make it that easy to layer wood on
it. And maybe a layer of cement wouldn't be any harder, but that
brings us back to my previous paragraph and the step from the top step
to the door sill.

Yeah, I ran through all those possibilities, and nothing worked except
replace the whole thing.

A picture is truly worth a thousand words.

Hope you will check out these pictures and give your
input. So far, I only have one bid for wood steps and
hand rail,which is fine with me. (see earlier in this thread).

And was that a reasonable price? Less than your grant? Including I
suppose removal of the first steps. Which I suppose requires breaking
them up first, a nothing job for someone who owns an electric jack
hammer, but more work for someone who has to rent one or do it some
other way.

As I posted earlier, my grant was for $4000, and the only bid I
received was $625 over. I asked the City if they could up the grant;
am awaiting reply.

The only bidder hasn't replied to my follow-up query, so she must have
decided she's not interested.

*******That's why I originally posted on this NG -- asking where I
could look for a contractor/handman other than the Yellow Pages.*****


TIA for your advice.

Your bid might be fine. Is it for two steps or three? I don't have a
computer tape measure, but it seems like you need 3.

Most definitely.

If one is shorter than the others, shouldn't it be the lowest step?
Or if it is custom made, will they be the same, even though that might
make each less than standard? People do standard height steps without
thinking.

If custom made -- seems like the only option -- they should be the
same.

I have maybe the least experience in many things of anyone here, but
on a good day I have ideas, some zany, and many questions. Here, I
wonder if you can buy a pre-fab 3step cement steps, and how much prep
has to be done to put it in place.

I doubt strongly if such a thing exists!

And will it sink, when lighter wooden steps won't. I would think
that neither would sink, given that your current steps have packed the
earth down very well.

Agreed! After all these decades (I am the 2nd owner) it should be!

And what kind of nice railing could be built for prefab cement steps.

And I think wood will require painting every few years, but what bout
that "wood" from recycled plastic they use for decks these days. A
little more expensive but no maintenance required.
..
[...]

Because this group gets so much traffic, this post was pretty high up
from the bottom, and often I don't see followups that are this far up.
With Agent and maybe other pprograms, even if you start a new thread
with the new thread button, if it is called by the same Subject, it
will thread together and I still will see it only way high up. I call
it the Psychology of Computers, when I try to figure out how programs
I have never used work with my email and news posts.

Do you receive your posts "threaded" by Subject, or by Date?

If by Date, mine should be near the top.

If "threaded", all you have to do is click on the + and it will
unthread the posts to that Subject.

Thanks for your interest and help.

aspasia

On Sun, 25 Mar 2007 23:38:27 -0700, aspasia wrote:


And I guess there are only two risers, but isn't the distance from the
top step to the door sill an important distance too, and it seems as
high as the second riser.

Riser from top step to second step is 9". (It's only supposed to be
6".) Bottom riser is 6".

That you said before, but then there is an additional step up to the
door sill, and it looked like about 9 inches too.

6 + 9 + 9 = 24 / 3 = 8, so that might be okay.
Divided by 4 = 6 would be better if you say it's supposed to be
6 inches. (That's probably what I have too, but I can't remember
numbers well.)

So that would mean three steps before the sill instead of the two you
have now.

A picture is truly worth a thousand words.

Hope you will check out these pictures and give your
input. So far, I only have one bid for wood steps and
hand rail,which is fine with me. (see earlier in this thread).

I thought this was an additional bid since the thread started. The
guy is asking 4600 for WOOD steps!!!!! I rarely hire anyone to do
anything, but that strikes me as ridiculous to the absurd. Is he
making them out of ebony and teak?

And was that a reasonable price? Less than your grant? Including I
suppose removal of the first steps. Which I suppose requires breaking
them up first, a nothing job for someone who owns an electric jack
hammer, but more work for someone who has to rent one or do it some
other way.

As I posted earlier, my grant was for $4000, and the only bid I
received was $625 over. I asked the City if they could up the grant;
am awaiting reply.

I don't think they should, but maybe they have a list of fairly priced
contractors and carpenters.

The only bidder hasn't replied to my follow-up query, so she must have
decided she's not interested.

*******That's why I originally posted on this NG -- asking where I
could look for a contractor/handman other than the Yellow Pages.*****


TIA for your advice.

Your bid might be fine. Is it for two steps or three? I don't have a
computer tape measure, but it seems like you need 3.

Most definitely.

OK, I hadn't read this far when I wrote what was above, but I don't
like to delete.

If one is shorter than the others, shouldn't it be the lowest step?
Or if it is custom made, will they be the same, even though that might
make each less than standard? People do standard height steps without
thinking.

If custom made -- seems like the only option -- they should be the
same.

I have maybe the least experience in many things of anyone here, but
on a good day I have ideas, some zany, and many questions. Here, I
wonder if you can buy a pre-fab 3step cement steps, and how much prep
has to be done to put it in place.

I doubt strongly if such a thing exists!

They certainly have 2-step prefab cement steps, and frankly I think
they have 3-step, but I said I wonder, to encourage others to reply.

With my news reader and the settings I use, this thread is very far up
and I have to hunt for it, but another guy said that with his
newsreader, all new posts come to the fore. But no one else is
posting on this thread but you and me, so I may violate some rule and
post this here and again at the bottom with a slightly different
thread name. Look for both.

BTW for me to do this, I can't just change the Subject and post. I
have to start a blank post and copy the text into it. Otherwise there
is hidden information (in the References header) that will keep the
posts in the same thread even if the Subject changes, if that switch
is on in Agent, and probably under some circumstances in other news
clients.

And will it sink, when lighter wooden steps won't. I would think
that neither would sink, given that your current steps have packed the
earth down very well.

Agreed! After all these decades (I am the 2nd owner) it should be!

And what kind of nice railing could be built for prefab cement steps.

And I think wood will require painting every few years, but what bout
that "wood" from recycled plastic they use for decks these days. A
little more expensive but no maintenance required.
.
[...]

Because this group gets so much traffic, this post was pretty high up
from the bottom, and often I don't see followups that are this far up.
With Agent and maybe other pprograms, even if you start a new thread
with the new thread button, if it is called by the same Subject, it
will thread together and I still will see it only way high up. I call
it the Psychology of Computers, when I try to figure out how programs
I have never used work with my email and news posts.

Do you receive your posts "threaded" by Subject, or by Date?

The first post in every thread is in order by date, and the rest of
each thread follows immediately after the first. When I collapse all
the threads, I see only first posts and they are in order by date,
oldest first.

But I can change how long posts are kept, so when posts get old and
get deleted, that changes the first post in the thread and the whole
thread gets sorted to be further down. If a long time has gone by,
there can be a late-arriving post that shows up at the very bottom!

And I can Keep posts so they never disappear. And other features.

If by Date, mine should be near the top.

Why do you say that? I probably keep posts longer than you do so for
me this thread is in the middle.

In other groups I save posts for 2 or 3 years. In this one because
there is so much traffic, and because I dl all the bodies, I can only
save about 2000 posts at a time, but for some reason the earliest
non=Kept post I have is about 16 days old. That would be only 100 and
something per day and we get more than that, so I don't get it, but
don't have time to figure it out now.

Because it's still sorted by the first post in the thread, this thread
is about in the middle.

If "threaded", all you have to do is click on the + and it will
unthread the posts to that Subject.

Yeah I know. I see you are using Agent also. I looked at version 2
but didn't like its appearance iirc. I like to keep all threads with
"unread" posts expanded.

Thanks for your interest and help.

aspasia