We are having a concrete driveway put in next week and we want to put up
a 16x16 out building next year. I am having the pad for the building
done at the same time as the driveway. For safety reasons I don't want
the contractor putting in the threaded anchors for the walls during the
pour. How can I install these anchors next year when we are ready to put
up the building?

Thanks for any help.

Keith

Drill holes next year and put in expanding anchors. Not an issue. Or put the
anchors in now and just cover them.


"Keith Boeheim" wrote in message
...
We are having a concrete driveway put in next week and we want to put up a
16x16 out building next year. I am having the pad for the building done at
the same time as the driveway. For safety reasons I don't want the
contractor putting in the threaded anchors for the walls during the pour.
How can I install these anchors next year when we are ready to put up the
building?

Thanks for any help.

Keith

On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 11:50:38 GMT, Keith Boeheim
wrote:

We are having a concrete driveway put in next week and we want to put up
a 16x16 out building next year. I am having the pad for the building
done at the same time as the driveway. For safety reasons I don't want
the contractor putting in the threaded anchors for the walls during the
pour. How can I install these anchors next year when we are ready to put
up the building?

Thanks for any help.

Keith

It can be done next year.... just a hell of a lot of work.... !!!!

If you are afraid someone will trip over them... just cover them over
with a little sand, soil, etc and next year sweep the sand and soil
away... much eaiser.

Bob

If you really cheap a learned a great trick years ago. If you ever need to
tie some 2x4's etc to concrete drill s 5/32 hold through the 2x4 and the
concrete drop in a piece of 14 gauge copper wire and then bound in a 3 1/2
nail. IF you don't believe me try is and then try pulling it out. YOU WON'T
WITHOUT BREAKING THE NAIL.... The copper expands into the concrete and it
stays there...


"Keith Boeheim" wrote in message
...
We are having a concrete driveway put in next week and we want to put up a
16x16 out building next year. I am having the pad for the building done at
the same time as the driveway. For safety reasons I don't want the
contractor putting in the threaded anchors for the walls during the pour.
How can I install these anchors next year when we are ready to put up the
building?

Thanks for any help.

Keith

Hilti makes products for this that drop a capsule of epoxy into a
drilled hole to bind an anchor, just don't use them to hang the cieling
like they did in the Big Dig
Keith Boeheim wrote:
We are having a concrete driveway put in next week and we want to put up
a 16x16 out building next year. I am having the pad for the building
done at the same time as the driveway. For safety reasons I don't want
the contractor putting in the threaded anchors for the walls during the
pour. How can I install these anchors next year when we are ready to put
up the building?

Thanks for any help.

Keith

I've done it both ways and I recommend putting in the anchors now and
covering it for the year. It's much easier and much better.

wrote:

Hilti makes products for this that drop a capsule of epoxy into a
drilled hole to bind an anchor, just don't use them to hang the cieling
like they did in the Big Dig
Keith Boeheim wrote:

We are having a concrete driveway put in next week and we want to put up
a 16x16 out building next year. I am having the pad for the building
done at the same time as the driveway. For safety reasons I don't want
the contractor putting in the threaded anchors for the walls during the
pour. How can I install these anchors next year when we are ready to put
up the building?

Thanks for any help.

Keith




Just don't do that the way they did here in Red Sox Nation:

http://tinyurl.com/ovwnb

What a effing mess this is...

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
"Rudeness is the weak man's imitation of strength."

On Fri, 14 Jul 2006 11:50:38 GMT, Keith Boeheim
wrote:

We are having a concrete driveway put in next week and we want to put up
a 16x16 out building next year. I am having the pad for the building
done at the same time as the driveway. For safety reasons I don't want
the contractor putting in the threaded anchors for the walls during the
pour. How can I install these anchors next year when we are ready to put
up the building?

Thanks for any help.

Keith

Can work both ways. I work for a concrete company and we do it both
ways depending on the situation. Just make sure you buy good quality
anchor bolts either way.

According to Keith Boeheim :
We are having a concrete driveway put in next week and we want to put up
a 16x16 out building next year. I am having the pad for the building
done at the same time as the driveway. For safety reasons I don't want
the contractor putting in the threaded anchors for the walls during the
pour. How can I install these anchors next year when we are ready to put
up the building?

I can appreciate the concerns that you have about protruding bolts
being a hazard, but a properly concreted-in J bolt is so superior to
just about everything else, that for a 16x16 outbuilding I'd strongly
recommend installing them now anyway.

Put cinder blocks or flower pots (why not with flowers?! ;-) over/around
them or something like that to eliminate the safety/tripping hazard.

If you do choose to install later, research concrete anchoring
systems on the net, and follow the instructions of the one you
choose _to_the_letter_.

Remember, this isn't a lifting load (w.r.t. the big dig accident
a few days ago), so that's not going to happen. But strong
winds are perfectly capable of moving structures like this,
and just picking up lag screws and anchors out of a hardware
store bin _can_ be a mistake if you don't install them properly.

Apropos this, I just repaired a deck railing mounting support
that was less than 3 _months_ old, because the alleged
"professional handyman" who previously owned the house didn't know
that the lag screw is supposed to thread _into_ the anchor, not
just push the anchor farther back into the ridiculously
deep hole in the masonry.

Seriously.

The hole was so deep that the the lag screw pushed the anchor 4"
behind the face of the masonry and didn't engage the anchor _at all_.

He was expecting this nonsense to pass inspection.

Without washers under the lags.

Fixing the anchors involved pulling the lags out (they were loose.
Pulled straight out), fishing out the anchors with wire, threading the
anchors on just enough to bind in the hole, and then winching up the
lags.

Not to mention the 4' long cleated together 2x12 (! what was
he holding up? The Queen Mary?) deck support "beam" he was
supporting both ends on some pieces of rotting wood lying
horizontally on the dirt, when a perfectly adequate masonry
post was 6" away from one end, and butted up against masonry
on the other. So I did 2 2x6s supported on the post and
a 2x4 sleeve-anchored to the wall for the other end, and
inspection passed.

What an airhead.

We assume that he sold the house and left town because the
work he was being paid to do for others was so obviously
and completely half-assed.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

When I put up my 4 post lift, I had to anchor the posts. It was messy
and time consuming, but what I did was; bought high quality 5/8"
expanding anchors, drilled with a hammer drill and a new concrete bit &
epoxy-ed them in. I started out with Hilti epoxy, but ran out. The
Hilti store is ~ 35 miles so I tried Home Depot. They have a 2 part
epoxy in a caulking gun tube, that if I were to do it again I would use
from the get go. Those last 4 holes were the easiest and the best. None
of the anchors ever came loose, and I regularly raise 6000 lb pick-ups
and shake them around working on them. I sold my Hilti epoxy gun after
finding these glue tubes, highly recommended.
Just an after thought, what about sinking threaded inserts into the
concrete when it is poured? You could have bolts in them to keep the
concrete out of the threads, and remove them after it cured to solve
the tripping hazard.

"Eric in North TX" wrote in message
ps.com

Just an after thought, what about sinking threaded
inserts into the concrete when it is poured? You could
have bolts in them to keep the concrete out of the
threads, and remove them after it cured to solve the
tripping hazard.

Best idea I've seen yet. To embellish this use a fairly long
threaded bolt, put on several nuts with large washers between
each. Install only loose finger tight so they don't bind removing
the bolt.

wrote:
have slab level and perhaps thicker where the anchors will go.

dont put them in now they are a trip hazard. i have some sticking up
from a delayed shed addition

Put them in with the pour. Set a flower pot on top of each til the time
is right.

(Chris Lewis) wrote:

Remember, this isn't a lifting load (w.r.t. the big dig accident
a few days ago), so that's not going to happen. But strong
winds are perfectly capable of moving structures like this,
and just picking up lag screws and anchors out of a hardware
store bin _can_ be a mistake if you don't install them properly.

Actually, it's the lifting forces imparted by high winds that the
anchors need to handle.

If the structure is tied together (e.g., with hurricane clips,) then
high winds going over the roof will create suction and uplift forces.
These must be withstood by the anchors, or the scructure will lift off
its foundations. (If the scructure isn't tied together, then the roof
will just fly off.)

The other thing that happens is that lateral wind forces on one side
of the scructure will tend to push that wall inward, rotating it
around the sill plate. This will create a lot of upward force on the
anchors, as the wall is essentially a large lever. This can be
mitigated somewhat by using sheathing (OSB, plywood, etc.) around the
outside of the structure, or at least at the corners, to counteract
the racking forces.

Best idea I've seen yet. To embellish this use a fairly long
threaded bolt, put on several nuts with large washers between
each. Install only loose finger tight so they don't bind removing
the bolt

I couldn't envision what you were saying at first, now I get it, not
just yeah, but hell yeah
That would be cheap, effective and bullet proof.

"Chris Lewis" wrote in message
...
According to Keith Boeheim :
We are having a concrete driveway put in next week and we want to put up
a 16x16 out building next year. I am having the pad for the building
done at the same time as the driveway. For safety reasons I don't want
the contractor putting in the threaded anchors for the walls during the
pour. How can I install these anchors next year when we are ready to put
up the building?

I can appreciate the concerns that you have about protruding bolts
being a hazard, but a properly concreted-in J bolt is so superior to
just about everything else, that for a 16x16 outbuilding I'd strongly
recommend installing them now anyway.

Put cinder blocks or flower pots (why not with flowers?! ;-) over/around
them or something like that to eliminate the safety/tripping hazard.

If you do choose to install later, research concrete anchoring
systems on the net, and follow the instructions of the one you
choose _to_the_letter_.

Unless this shed OP is putting in next year is metal, he should lay up or
pour a proper foundation stub wall. Even a PT sill plate sitting at slab
level is asking for trouble. Yeah, an 8 or 12 inch wall sticking up for a
year is a PITA, but less hazardous than J bolts sticking up from a flat
slab.

aem sends....

According to El Barto :
(Chris Lewis) wrote:

Remember, this isn't a lifting load (w.r.t. the big dig accident
a few days ago), so that's not going to happen. But strong
winds are perfectly capable of moving structures like this,
and just picking up lag screws and anchors out of a hardware
store bin _can_ be a mistake if you don't install them properly.

Actually, it's the lifting forces imparted by high winds that the
anchors need to handle.

Sorry, should have been clearer. Yes, I've seen the calculations
showing many 100's of pounds of uplift per rafter under hurricane
situations with relatively "normal" size roofs. I meant that they're
not under continuous stress 24x7, holding up tons of concrete - where
the slightest imperfections in installation/bad concrete/vibration
_may_ work some anchors loose.

That said, I like the other idea, forming a 12" stub wall with
anchors (perhaps female thread slugs, not threaded rod) in _that_.
The OP would be far happier with the resulting structure.
--
Chris Lewis, Una confibula non set est
It's not just anyone who gets a Starship Cruiser class named after them.

El Barto wrote:
(Chris Lewis) wrote:


Remember, this isn't a lifting load (w.r.t. the big dig accident
a few days ago), so that's not going to happen. But strong
winds are perfectly capable of moving structures like this,
and just picking up lag screws and anchors out of a hardware
store bin _can_ be a mistake if you don't install them properly.


Actually, it's the lifting forces imparted by high winds that the
anchors need to handle.

If the structure is tied together (e.g., with hurricane clips,) then
high winds going over the roof will create suction and uplift forces.
These must be withstood by the anchors, or the scructure will lift off
its foundations. (If the scructure isn't tied together, then the roof
will just fly off.)

The other thing that happens is that lateral wind forces on one side
of the scructure will tend to push that wall inward, rotating it
around the sill plate. This will create a lot of upward force on the
anchors, as the wall is essentially a large lever. This can be
mitigated somewhat by using sheathing (OSB, plywood, etc.) around the
outside of the structure, or at least at the corners, to counteract
the racking forces.

I will note that Steel Frame houses use chemically anchored bolts to
attach the steel to the slab. These bolts are installed AFTER the slab
has cured. see www.tri-steel.com

This is an interesting thread with a lot of pertinent info for my project.
Last week, one of the neigborhood kids was attempting a dive off my diving
board when the support bolts broke. No one was hurt but it did create a bit
of drama for the afternoon

The diving board mounts with two bolts to a boat-shaped fiberglass base. The
base is anchored to the concrete decking with 6 anchors with three at the
front of the base and three at the rear. Am not that familiar with these
fasteners but they are about 1/2" dia, serrated and pointed. They are plenty
rusted and I could barely make out the remnants of what must have been nuts
and some yellow plastic caps for these studs. May be these were Ramset type?

Anyhow, I need to fix this and was going to cut them off flush as they only
extend about 1" above grade and are not long enough to try and reattach
with. The rear bolts will be in tension when the board is in use. Will the
regular Home Depot 1/2" anchors would be enough? Reading this thread,
perhaps the epoxy might not be a bad idea.

Finally, whats the best method to rust proof these? Krylon paint or ?

TIA
Mike in DFW, Texas

"marson" wrote in message
oups.com...
in my town, the local building inspector requires either a j bolt or a
5/8 expansion anchor drilled 7" into the concrete. yeah, it's overkill,
but that's what they want. they also make a deal that is basically a
piece of rebar with a female threaded end. it can be flush with the
top of the pour, and then a piece of threaded rod can be screwed in
later.

Eric in North TX wrote:
Best idea I've seen yet. To embellish this use a fairly long
threaded bolt, put on several nuts with large washers between
each. Install only loose finger tight so they don't bind removing
the bolt

I couldn't envision what you were saying at first, now I get it, not
just yeah, but hell yeah
That would be cheap, effective and bullet proof.

"marson" wrote in message
ups.com
in a situation like that i would think spending a few
extra bucks on stainless would be worth while. some of
our engineer friends here might post with some good
advice,but off hand, i would look into epoxing in
stainless threaded rod (provided you have access to an
air compressor to clean the holes). i just don't trust
espansion bolts for critical connections.

I have never seen tables on stainless verses bright steel but I
know with stainless screws, they twist off twice as easy as bright
steel so you might want to up the size one notch to compensate for
that to make them equal to new steel.