Could someone tell me what it means when a light bulb socket says it's
rated for 660 watts? If it's true that it can handle that much; then
why is it when I install a 250W incandescent bulb in a socket that is
rated for 660w it starts to melt and/or the wires do too. I can't
imagine how hot a 660W bulb gets (if there is such a thing), let alone
compared to a 250W bulb.

wrote:

Could someone tell me what it means when a light bulb socket says it's
rated for 660 watts? If it's true that it can handle that much; then
why is it when I install a 250W incandescent bulb in a socket that is
rated for 660w it starts to melt and/or the wires do too. I can't
imagine how hot a 660W bulb gets (if there is such a thing), let alone
compared to a 250W bulb.

Hi,
I can bet there is one too many number 6. It sounds like 60W rated!
Don't burn your house down, LOL!

I have seen sockets with that 660W rating always thought it nuts.
Probably current limit of conductors within the socket, noit including
heating of the socket.

I USED to be able to buy a 300W bulb, today the largest I can find is
250W

We use CF now for nearly all applications so the heat isnt as
important. Although I still use a 250 watt bulb in my attic, it gets
very little use

I'm thinking the socket is actually rated for a maximum of 660 volts,
not watts.

Cheers,
Paul

On 5 May 2006 17:43:51 -0700, wrote:

Could someone tell me what it means when a light bulb socket says it's
rated for 660 watts? If it's true that it can handle that much; then
why is it when I install a 250W incandescent bulb in a socket that is
rated for 660w it starts to melt and/or the wires do too. I can't
imagine how hot a 660W bulb gets (if there is such a thing), let alone
compared to a 250W bulb.

On 5 May 2006 18:10:51 -0700, "
wrote:

I have seen sockets with that 660W rating always thought it nuts.
Probably current limit of conductors within the socket, noit including
heating of the socket.

I USED to be able to buy a 300W bulb, today the largest I can find is
250W

We use CF now for nearly all applications so the heat isnt as
important. Although I still use a 250 watt bulb in my attic, it gets
very little use


There are indeed Edison (Medium) based sockets rated for 660W. Each
one that I have seen in this range is porcelain. Is yours?

They are used for theatrical/studio lighting. Above that there are
mogul bases and bi-pin connectors that go to 1000 W and beyond.

Beachcomber

On 5 May 2006 17:43:51 -0700, wrote:

Could someone tell me what it means when a light bulb socket says it's
rated for 660 watts? If it's true that it can handle that much; then
why is it when I install a 250W incandescent bulb in a socket that is
rated for 660w it starts to melt and/or the wires do too. I can't

Obviously, it's rated for 660W but not for less. Get bigger bulbs.

imagine how hot a 660W bulb gets (if there is such a thing), let alone
compared to a 250W bulb.

Either that or Tony or Paul are right. I've never tried to use 250W
but I'm sure there are sockets that can handle them.

(Alternatively, who said that being within the rating means it won't
melt? Melting may be part of their rating. That's it. They're
saying that if you want to be sure it will melt, you need to use 660
watts. That yours melt with 250 means they are better than their
rating.)

On Fri, 05 May 2006 22:21:55 -0400, mm
wrote:

On 5 May 2006 17:43:51 -0700, wrote:

Could someone tell me what it means when a light bulb socket says it's
rated for 660 watts? If it's true that it can handle that much; then
why is it when I install a 250W incandescent bulb in a socket that is
rated for 660w it starts to melt and/or the wires do too. I can't

Obviously, it's rated for 660W but not for less. Get bigger bulbs.

imagine how hot a 660W bulb gets (if there is such a thing), let alone
compared to a 250W bulb.

Either that or Tony or Paul are right. I've never tried to use 250W
but I'm sure there are sockets that can handle them.

(Alternatively, who said that being within the rating means it won't
melt? Melting may be part of their rating. That's it. They're
saying that if you want to be sure it will melt, you need to use 660
watts. That yours melt with 250 means they are better than their
rating.)


Once again, bulbs of this great wattage are used in theatres, movie,
tv and photography studios. It is quite common for sockets to fail
and suffer a meltdown, the most recent instance when a bulb exploded
and injured one of the Desparate Housewives on the set (I forgot which
one). The level of heat is so great that failure mode is common and
unpredictable.

Bulbs explode in the studio all the time while news anchor people and
reporters are on-the-air, sometimes leading to hilarious outtakes.

Also, remember, that these high wattage bulbs are often placed on
dimmers so that, many times, they are mostly being used at a
less-than-full intensity.

Beachcomber

All of the sockets I have through-out my house say stuff like: 250V
660W or 600V 660W...I would like to use a 250W bulb in my basement's
ceiling lamp holder, figuring they will be operating base-up all of the
heat will drift up towards the socket (they are made from some type of
hard plastic, not porcelain).

On 6 May 2006 01:06:44 -0700, wrote:

All of the sockets I have through-out my house say stuff like: 250V
660W or 600V 660W...I would like to use a 250W bulb in my basement's
ceiling lamp holder, figuring they will be operating base-up all of the
heat will drift up towards the socket (they are made from some type of
hard plastic, not porcelain).


Is there any particular reason you want a 250 watt bulb in your
basement? Without knowing the full details it sounds like a poor
choice of lighting, inefficient, a fire-hazard, painful to look at,
and producer of excess heat.

If it is for a workshop or laundry area, you might be happier by
replacing the fixture with a 2 or 4 fluourescent tube fixture.

Beachcomber

Beachcomber wrote:
On 6 May 2006 01:06:44 -0700, wrote:


All of the sockets I have through-out my house say stuff like: 250V
660W or 600V 660W...I would like to use a 250W bulb in my basement's
ceiling lamp holder, figuring they will be operating base-up all of the
heat will drift up towards the socket (they are made from some type of
hard plastic, not porcelain).



Is there any particular reason you want a 250 watt bulb in your
basement? Without knowing the full details it sounds like a poor
choice of lighting, inefficient, a fire-hazard, painful to look at,
and producer of excess heat.

If it is for a workshop or laundry area, you might be happier by
replacing the fixture with a 2 or 4 fluourescent tube fixture.

Beachcomber



Agreed, a two or four lamp fixture for 48inch bulbs is inexpensive, get
one with an electronic ballast to save even more energy (magnetic
ballasts consume 1/3 of the total energy of the fixture). I see a 48
inch two lamp fixture on 1000bulbs.com for $30
Two bulbs cost about $2 each.

A 200W incandescent will cost at least $5 and you will have to replace
it at least three or four times in the expected life of the fluorescent
lamps. Two 48 inch bulbs will put out about 6000 lumens of light vs
about 2800 for the 200W to 250W incandescent.

On 5 May 2006 17:43:51 -0700, wrote:

Could someone tell me what it means when a light bulb socket says it's
rated for 660 watts? If it's true that it can handle that much; then
why is it when I install a 250W incandescent bulb in a socket that is
rated for 660w it starts to melt and/or the wires do too. I can't
imagine how hot a 660W bulb gets (if there is such a thing), let alone
compared to a 250W bulb.

I've been within a couple of feet of a 1000W bulb. It was very hot.

That bulb used a mogul base (bigger than an Edison base). The biggest
I've seen for Edison base is a 3-way bulb 100W/200W/300W.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what
to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb
contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin

On Sat, 06 May 2006 00:51:53 GMT, Tony Hwang wrote:

wrote:

Could someone tell me what it means when a light bulb socket says it's
rated for 660 watts? If it's true that it can handle that much; then
why is it when I install a 250W incandescent bulb in a socket that is
rated for 660w it starts to melt and/or the wires do too. I can't
imagine how hot a 660W bulb gets (if there is such a thing), let alone
compared to a 250W bulb.

Hi,
I can bet there is one too many number 6. It sounds like 60W rated!
Don't burn your house down, LOL!

Some sockets are marked 660W.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what
to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb
contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin

On Sat, 06 May 2006 01:54:00 GMT, (Beachcomber)
wrote:

On 5 May 2006 18:10:51 -0700, "
wrote:

I have seen sockets with that 660W rating always thought it nuts.
Probably current limit of conductors within the socket, noit including
heating of the socket.

I USED to be able to buy a 300W bulb, today the largest I can find is
250W

We use CF now for nearly all applications so the heat isnt as
important. Although I still use a 250 watt bulb in my attic, it gets
very little use


There are indeed Edison (Medium) based sockets rated for 660W. Each
one that I have seen in this range is porcelain. Is yours?

They are used for theatrical/studio lighting. Above that there are
mogul bases and bi-pin connectors that go to 1000 W and beyond.

Beachcomber


So medium base is the same as Edison base? Then what do they call the
base on big (C9) holiday lights? These are bigger than candelabra
base.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what
to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb
contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin

On Sat, 06 May 2006 01:34:05 GMT, Paul M. Eldridge
wrote:

I'm thinking the socket is actually rated for a maximum of 660 volts,
not watts.


Then why do they call the volts watts?

Cheers,
Paul

On 5 May 2006 17:43:51 -0700, wrote:

Could someone tell me what it means when a light bulb socket says it's
rated for 660 watts? If it's true that it can handle that much; then
why is it when I install a 250W incandescent bulb in a socket that is
rated for 660w it starts to melt and/or the wires do too. I can't
imagine how hot a 660W bulb gets (if there is such a thing), let alone
compared to a 250W bulb.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what
to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb
contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin

"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 May 2006 01:34:05 GMT, Paul M. Eldridge
wrote:

I'm thinking the socket is actually rated for a maximum of 660 volts,
not watts.

It's more likely that the socket itself, not the wiring or fixture, is rated
for 660 watts. Then the next manufacturer buys it, attaches the wires, etc.
and labels the fixture at 60 watts (or whatever)

best to use a compact fluroscent.

more efficent, much less heat, and saves $$

In hindsight, I think you're right. I have seen porcelain sockets in
commercial applications that are, in fact, rated for a maximum of 660
volts, but in a residential environment, it's more likely to be 250
volts/660 watts. Apologies to all for my confusion.

Cheers,
Paul

On Sat, 06 May 2006 21:31:38 GMT, "Noozer" wrote:

It's more likely that the socket itself, not the wiring or fixture, is rated
for 660 watts. Then the next manufacturer buys it, attaches the wires, etc.
and labels the fixture at 60 watts (or whatever)

wrote in message
...
On Sat, 06 May 2006 21:31:38 GMT, "Noozer" wrote:


"Mark Lloyd" wrote in message
. ..
On Sat, 06 May 2006 01:34:05 GMT, Paul M. Eldridge
wrote:

I'm thinking the socket is actually rated for a maximum of 660 volts,
not watts.

It's more likely that the socket itself, not the wiring or fixture, is
rated
for 660 watts. Then the next manufacturer buys it, attaches the wires,
etc.
and labels the fixture at 60 watts (or whatever)

From a wiring standpoint 660w is not that big (5½ amps). That is well
within the ampacity of standard 18ga fixture wire. The real issue is
whether the fixture can shead the heat. (2240 BTU/hr)
There amy also be a reference to "base down" or "base up".

Yes, the 660 watts is an electrical rating, not a heat rating. It was 6
amperes at 110 volts and would apply if a screw-in adapter and cord was
used. It does not take into account any heat from a bulb.
Don Young

On 6 May 2006 15:12:01 -0700, "
wrote:

A thread about 250 watt bulbs.

best to use a compact fluroscent.

more efficent, much less heat, and saves $$

Is it true that a 250 watt compact fluorescent will give as much light
as a 2200 watt incandescent?

(Just kidding?)