Well, it's been over 24 hours and my home is quiet and warm with the
new furnace motor. I have replaced it yesterday and everything is well
so far. I hope it stays that way.

Now another question. How does one adjust the dampers in a 2 story
house. I understand that in the winter I need to favor downstairs with
the air flow and in the summer the upstairs. I have two dampers to
control the left and right side of the house downstairs and a third
damper to control up/down distribution. I have set the bottom two to
be almost all open and the up/down one to be almost closed, which would
divert most of the air flow downstairs. After 24 hours with the new
motor and these settings the temperature is within 1 degree between
upstairs and downstairs. I am happy, but what do I do in the summer?
Just the opposite? I noticed when installing the motor that the
heating wire went to the high speed and the cooling wire went to the
slow speed on the old motor. I wired the new motor the same way, but
am wondering why is the cooling slower?

Thanks as usual, love the forum!
Vladimir

wrote:

Well, it's been over 24 hours and my home is quiet and warm with the
new furnace motor. I have replaced it yesterday and everything is well
so far. I hope it stays that way.

Now another question. How does one adjust the dampers in a 2 story
house. I understand that in the winter I need to favor downstairs with
the air flow and in the summer the upstairs. I have two dampers to
control the left and right side of the house downstairs and a third
damper to control up/down distribution. I have set the bottom two to
be almost all open and the up/down one to be almost closed, which would
divert most of the air flow downstairs. After 24 hours with the new
motor and these settings the temperature is within 1 degree between
upstairs and downstairs. I am happy, but what do I do in the summer?
Just the opposite? I noticed when installing the motor that the
heating wire went to the high speed and the cooling wire went to the
slow speed on the old motor. I wired the new motor the same way, but
am wondering why is the cooling slower?

Thanks as usual, love the forum!
Vladimir

That sounds backwards to me. I think cooling is normally the higher
speed. See, e.g.:

http://toad.net/~jsmeenen/blower.html

(I'm not endorsing this site in particular, it's just one of the first
I found via Google which addressed the issue)

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

wrote:

Well, it's been over 24 hours and my home is quiet and warm with the
new furnace motor. I have replaced it yesterday and everything is well
so far. I hope it stays that way.

Now another question. How does one adjust the dampers in a 2 story
house. I understand that in the winter I need to favor downstairs with
the air flow and in the summer the upstairs. I have two dampers to
control the left and right side of the house downstairs and a third
damper to control up/down distribution. I have set the bottom two to
be almost all open and the up/down one to be almost closed, which would
divert most of the air flow downstairs. After 24 hours with the new
motor and these settings the temperature is within 1 degree between
upstairs and downstairs. I am happy, but what do I do in the summer?
Just the opposite? I noticed when installing the motor that the
heating wire went to the high speed and the cooling wire went to the
slow speed on the old motor. I wired the new motor the same way, but
am wondering why is the cooling slower?

It may have come from the factory that way. It's also possible that
somebody was home remedying it and put them back on the wrong terminals.
Another possibility is that a tech switched them as a Band-Aid solution
to high temp limit trips. The list is endless.

hvacrmedic

You will not know until you actually try the A/C. Perhaps it does turn
at high speed. Maybe the wiring changed with the new motor.

Heat is set to lower speed cooling higher speed, more even winter heat
and more efficient cooling and less chance of freezing the coil. ducts
cant be closed off if temp rise is higher than unit recommendations.
These are a few thing for you now to spend a week learning about.

wrote in message
oups.com...
Well, it's been over 24 hours and my home is quiet and warm with the
new furnace motor. I have replaced it yesterday and everything is well
so far. I hope it stays that way.

Now another question. How does one adjust the dampers in a 2 story
house. I understand that in the winter I need to favor downstairs with
the air flow and in the summer the upstairs. I have two dampers to
control the left and right side of the house downstairs and a third
damper to control up/down distribution. I have set the bottom two to
be almost all open and the up/down one to be almost closed, which would
divert most of the air flow downstairs. After 24 hours with the new
motor and these settings the temperature is within 1 degree between
upstairs and downstairs. I am happy, but what do I do in the summer?
Just the opposite? I noticed when installing the motor that the
heating wire went to the high speed and the cooling wire went to the
slow speed on the old motor. I wired the new motor the same way, but
am wondering why is the cooling slower?

Thanks as usual, love the forum!
Vladimir


What a dumb ****...

High speed for cooling, low speed for heating is the norm. You can use
high speed for both if you want to. You need to fix this.

You never did say how easy it was to get a new motor or where you got
it from.

Cooling is typically a faster speed, cause the cold air is heavier.

YOu're right about air ducted up in the summer. Cause the codl air will
settle and keep the first floor cold.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

wrote in message
oups.com...
Well, it's been over 24 hours and my home is quiet and warm with the
new furnace motor. I have replaced it yesterday and everything is well
so far. I hope it stays that way.

Now another question. How does one adjust the dampers in a 2 story
house. I understand that in the winter I need to favor downstairs with
the air flow and in the summer the upstairs. I have two dampers to
control the left and right side of the house downstairs and a third
damper to control up/down distribution. I have set the bottom two to
be almost all open and the up/down one to be almost closed, which would
divert most of the air flow downstairs. After 24 hours with the new
motor and these settings the temperature is within 1 degree between
upstairs and downstairs. I am happy, but what do I do in the summer?
Just the opposite? I noticed when installing the motor that the
heating wire went to the high speed and the cooling wire went to the
slow speed on the old motor. I wired the new motor the same way, but
am wondering why is the cooling slower?

Thanks as usual, love the forum!
Vladimir

Stormin, so cold air is heavier , does my car take more HP to run in
cold air from wind resistance.

m Ransley wrote:

Stormin, so cold air is heavier , does my car take more HP to run in
cold air from wind resistance.

It probably does, if that's all you consider. Happily, engines are more
efficient when their intake is cold (plus, you're less likely to be
running the A/C).

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

I did post in the original thread, but I'll repeat. I got the motor
from Gainger, it cost $69 and change including the cap and taxes. The
replacement is made by Dayton and made in China (what isn't these
days), the original was a GE and assembled in Mexico. Both are 1/2 hp
1075rpm, but the Dayton is 3 speed and the GE was 4. I wired the
replacement the same, I thought only using low for the wire that used
the medium low on the old motor. I will double-check the speed again.
The way I did it originally was to go upstairs and turn the
thermostat's fan control to "on" instead of "auto" I think that may
cause the motor to run at a different speed than when the thermostat
actually calls for heat. I will re-check and make sure I am on low
speed for heating and high for cooling.

How would I make the cooling and heating use the same speed? Wire both
wires to the same winding?

Thanks
Vladimir

wrote:

I did post in the original thread, but I'll repeat. I got the motor
from Gainger, it cost $69 and change including the cap and taxes. The
replacement is made by Dayton and made in China (what isn't these
days), the original was a GE and assembled in Mexico. Both are 1/2 hp
1075rpm, but the Dayton is 3 speed and the GE was 4. I wired the
replacement the same, I thought only using low for the wire that used
the medium low on the old motor. I will double-check the speed again.
The way I did it originally was to go upstairs and turn the
thermostat's fan control to "on" instead of "auto" I think that may
cause the motor to run at a different speed than when the thermostat
actually calls for heat.

That's probably true.

I will re-check and make sure I am on low
speed for heating and high for cooling.

How would I make the cooling and heating use the same speed? Wire both
wires to the same winding?

Thanks
Vladimir



--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

The heat was wired correctly. I did originally test using fan on
function instead of heat setting. When I tested using thermostat to
call for heat (set the thermo for 80 degrees), I got the low speed
winding to energize. I tested it by disconnecting the connections
until the fan stopped. When I broke the one that stopped the fan it
was the slow one.

"CJT" wrote in message
...
m Ransley wrote:

Stormin, so cold air is heavier , does my car take more HP to run in
cold air from wind resistance.

It probably does, if that's all you consider. Happily, engines are more
efficient when their intake is cold (plus, you're less likely to be
running the A/C).


On modern vehicles, when you go to WOT, the AC is kicked out...even then, at
highway speeds, less than 2HP is used to run it.

The reason that a car likes cold air is that cold air is more dense. Helps
to slightly increase volumetric efficiency.

The reason that with HVAC issues you have a faster speed on cool than you do
low, is two fold, and if Stormy had a clue, (he does not) he would know why.
--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

wrote:

The heat was wired correctly. I did originally test using fan on
function instead of heat setting. When I tested using thermostat to
call for heat (set the thermo for 80 degrees), I got the low speed
winding to energize. I tested it by disconnecting the connections
until the fan stopped. When I broke the one that stopped the fan it
was the slow one.

Great. Now you can stop ****ing with it

hvacrmedic

"RP" wrote in message
...


CBHVAC wrote:

"CJT" wrote in message
...

m Ransley wrote:


Stormin, so cold air is heavier , does my car take more HP to run in
cold air from wind resistance.


It probably does, if that's all you consider. Happily, engines are more
efficient when their intake is cold (plus, you're less likely to be
running the A/C).



On modern vehicles, when you go to WOT, the AC is kicked out...even then,
at highway speeds, less than 2HP is used to run it.

The reason that a car likes cold air is that cold air is more dense.
Helps to slightly increase volumetric efficiency.

The reason that with HVAC issues you have a faster speed on cool than you
do low, is two fold, and if Stormy had a clue, (he does not) he would
know why.

There is no *requirement* that heating speed be lower than cooling speed.
What is important is that you have the proper cfm per ton set up for
cooling, and that your temp rise in heating falls within the specs (temp
drop range) listed on the data plate or label in/on the furnace. Factory
default isn't necessarily what's going to be required.


No...of course not, but in the case of a furnace say..the slower of the two
speeds NORMALLY will be your heat fan speed.

hvacrmedic

CBHVAC wrote:

"CJT" wrote in message
...

m Ransley wrote:


Stormin, so cold air is heavier , does my car take more HP to run in
cold air from wind resistance.


It probably does, if that's all you consider. Happily, engines are more
efficient when their intake is cold (plus, you're less likely to be
running the A/C).



On modern vehicles, when you go to WOT, the AC is kicked out...even then, at
highway speeds, less than 2HP is used to run it.

The reason that a car likes cold air is that cold air is more dense. Helps
to slightly increase volumetric efficiency.

The reason that with HVAC issues you have a faster speed on cool than you do
low, is two fold, and if Stormy had a clue, (he does not) he would know why.

There is no *requirement* that heating speed be lower than cooling
speed. What is important is that you have the proper cfm per ton set up
for cooling, and that your temp rise in heating falls within the specs
(temp drop range) listed on the data plate or label in/on the furnace.
Factory default isn't necessarily what's going to be required.

hvacrmedic

CBHVAC wrote:

"RP" wrote in message
...


CBHVAC wrote:


"CJT" wrote in message
...


m Ransley wrote:



Stormin, so cold air is heavier , does my car take more HP to run in
cold air from wind resistance.


It probably does, if that's all you consider. Happily, engines are more
efficient when their intake is cold (plus, you're less likely to be
running the A/C).



On modern vehicles, when you go to WOT, the AC is kicked out...even then,
at highway speeds, less than 2HP is used to run it.

The reason that a car likes cold air is that cold air is more dense.
Helps to slightly increase volumetric efficiency.

The reason that with HVAC issues you have a faster speed on cool than you
do low, is two fold, and if Stormy had a clue, (he does not) he would
know why.

There is no *requirement* that heating speed be lower than cooling speed.
What is important is that you have the proper cfm per ton set up for
cooling, and that your temp rise in heating falls within the specs (temp
drop range) listed on the data plate or label in/on the furnace. Factory
default isn't necessarily what's going to be required.



No...of course not, but in the case of a furnace say..the slower of the two
speeds NORMALLY will be your heat fan speed.

I didn't doubt you for a moment, I was just clarifying because your
statement could have easily been misinterpreted as meaning that there
was some requirement for heating speed to be lower.

NORMALLY, the heating speed is lower, simply because the engineers
arranged for it to be. Lower face velocity and higher temp means less
draft and thus more comfort for the occupants. It is however less efficient.

hvacrmedic

On 22 Dec 2005 17:47:27 -0800, wrote:

The heat was wired correctly. I did originally test using fan on
function instead of heat setting. When I tested using thermostat to
call for heat (set the thermo for 80 degrees), I got the low speed
winding to energize. I tested it by disconnecting the connections
until the fan stopped. When I broke the one that stopped the fan it
was the slow one.

Try your heat on the middle speed and see if you like it that way.
Thats the way I like mine.......
If you got to xwap a few wires in the summer, it's no biggie.

Mark

On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 00:54:42 -0600, RP
wrote:


I didn't doubt you for a moment, I was just clarifying because your
statement could have easily been misinterpreted as meaning that there
was some requirement for heating speed to be lower.

NORMALLY, the heating speed is lower, simply because the engineers
arranged for it to be. Lower face velocity and higher temp means less
draft and thus more comfort for the occupants. It is however less efficient.

How does this apply to auto heaters?

You're the first person I've seen mention that one can get iiuyouc,
almost the same result with lower velocity and higher temp.

I like to put my car fan on one of the lower two speeds, because it
makes too much noise in the higher two.

I figure that at lower speeds, the air spends more time in the heater
core, and gets hotter, so that makes up for the fact that there is
less hot air.

Am I right, and do you have a guess about how much heat speed 2 puts
out compared to speed 3? It's a Chrysler at the moment.

hvacrmedic


Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

"I figure that at lower speeds, the air spends more time in the heater
core, and gets hotter, so that makes up for the fact that there is
less hot air. "

Yes, and no. Yes the air gets hotter at slower velocities. And no it
doesn't make up for it. While the air coming out will be significantly
hotter, you still get the most heat by having the max blower speed.
Max blower speed forces more cold air into the heater which extracts
more heat from the heater core.

"mm" wrote in message

How does this apply to auto heaters?

You're the first person I've seen mention that one can get iiuyouc,
almost the same result with lower velocity and higher temp.

I like to put my car fan on one of the lower two speeds, because it
makes too much noise in the higher two.

I figure that at lower speeds, the air spends more time in the heater
core, and gets hotter, so that makes up for the fact that there is
less hot air.

Am I right, and do you have a guess about how much heat speed 2 puts
out compared to speed 3? It's a Chrysler at the moment.

Any auto with automatic heat starts the blower on low speed when the water
hits about 110 degrees. This gets heat into the car as soon as possible,
but at lower volumes. On mine, it steps up again at about 125 and again at
about 150.

In any case, there is only so much heat available at a given temperature of
the heating coil. Lower speeds give a higher relative air temperature due to
the increased residence time, but overall heat output would be less than the
optimal combination of coil temperature and air flow.