|
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
Well, it's been over 24 hours and my home is quiet and warm with the
new furnace motor. I have replaced it yesterday and everything is well so far. I hope it stays that way. Now another question. How does one adjust the dampers in a 2 story house. I understand that in the winter I need to favor downstairs with the air flow and in the summer the upstairs. I have two dampers to control the left and right side of the house downstairs and a third damper to control up/down distribution. I have set the bottom two to be almost all open and the up/down one to be almost closed, which would divert most of the air flow downstairs. After 24 hours with the new motor and these settings the temperature is within 1 degree between upstairs and downstairs. I am happy, but what do I do in the summer? Just the opposite? I noticed when installing the motor that the heating wire went to the high speed and the cooling wire went to the slow speed on the old motor. I wired the new motor the same way, but am wondering why is the cooling slower? Thanks as usual, love the forum! Vladimir |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
|
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
You will not know until you actually try the A/C. Perhaps it does turn
at high speed. Maybe the wiring changed with the new motor. |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
Heat is set to lower speed cooling higher speed, more even winter heat
and more efficient cooling and less chance of freezing the coil. ducts cant be closed off if temp rise is higher than unit recommendations. These are a few thing for you now to spend a week learning about. |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
wrote in message oups.com... Well, it's been over 24 hours and my home is quiet and warm with the new furnace motor. I have replaced it yesterday and everything is well so far. I hope it stays that way. Now another question. How does one adjust the dampers in a 2 story house. I understand that in the winter I need to favor downstairs with the air flow and in the summer the upstairs. I have two dampers to control the left and right side of the house downstairs and a third damper to control up/down distribution. I have set the bottom two to be almost all open and the up/down one to be almost closed, which would divert most of the air flow downstairs. After 24 hours with the new motor and these settings the temperature is within 1 degree between upstairs and downstairs. I am happy, but what do I do in the summer? Just the opposite? I noticed when installing the motor that the heating wire went to the high speed and the cooling wire went to the slow speed on the old motor. I wired the new motor the same way, but am wondering why is the cooling slower? Thanks as usual, love the forum! Vladimir What a dumb ****... |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
High speed for cooling, low speed for heating is the norm. You can use
high speed for both if you want to. You need to fix this. |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
You never did say how easy it was to get a new motor or where you got
it from. |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
Cooling is typically a faster speed, cause the cold air is heavier.
YOu're right about air ducted up in the summer. Cause the codl air will settle and keep the first floor cold. -- Christopher A. Young You can't shout down a troll. You have to starve them. .. wrote in message oups.com... Well, it's been over 24 hours and my home is quiet and warm with the new furnace motor. I have replaced it yesterday and everything is well so far. I hope it stays that way. Now another question. How does one adjust the dampers in a 2 story house. I understand that in the winter I need to favor downstairs with the air flow and in the summer the upstairs. I have two dampers to control the left and right side of the house downstairs and a third damper to control up/down distribution. I have set the bottom two to be almost all open and the up/down one to be almost closed, which would divert most of the air flow downstairs. After 24 hours with the new motor and these settings the temperature is within 1 degree between upstairs and downstairs. I am happy, but what do I do in the summer? Just the opposite? I noticed when installing the motor that the heating wire went to the high speed and the cooling wire went to the slow speed on the old motor. I wired the new motor the same way, but am wondering why is the cooling slower? Thanks as usual, love the forum! Vladimir |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
Stormin, so cold air is heavier , does my car take more HP to run in
cold air from wind resistance. |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
m Ransley wrote:
Stormin, so cold air is heavier , does my car take more HP to run in cold air from wind resistance. It probably does, if that's all you consider. Happily, engines are more efficient when their intake is cold (plus, you're less likely to be running the A/C). -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
I did post in the original thread, but I'll repeat. I got the motor
from Gainger, it cost $69 and change including the cap and taxes. The replacement is made by Dayton and made in China (what isn't these days), the original was a GE and assembled in Mexico. Both are 1/2 hp 1075rpm, but the Dayton is 3 speed and the GE was 4. I wired the replacement the same, I thought only using low for the wire that used the medium low on the old motor. I will double-check the speed again. The way I did it originally was to go upstairs and turn the thermostat's fan control to "on" instead of "auto" I think that may cause the motor to run at a different speed than when the thermostat actually calls for heat. I will re-check and make sure I am on low speed for heating and high for cooling. How would I make the cooling and heating use the same speed? Wire both wires to the same winding? Thanks Vladimir |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
|
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
The heat was wired correctly. I did originally test using fan on
function instead of heat setting. When I tested using thermostat to call for heat (set the thermo for 80 degrees), I got the low speed winding to energize. I tested it by disconnecting the connections until the fan stopped. When I broke the one that stopped the fan it was the slow one. |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
"CJT" wrote in message ... m Ransley wrote: Stormin, so cold air is heavier , does my car take more HP to run in cold air from wind resistance. It probably does, if that's all you consider. Happily, engines are more efficient when their intake is cold (plus, you're less likely to be running the A/C). On modern vehicles, when you go to WOT, the AC is kicked out...even then, at highway speeds, less than 2HP is used to run it. The reason that a car likes cold air is that cold air is more dense. Helps to slightly increase volumetric efficiency. The reason that with HVAC issues you have a faster speed on cool than you do low, is two fold, and if Stormy had a clue, (he does not) he would know why. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
|
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
"RP" wrote in message ... CBHVAC wrote: "CJT" wrote in message ... m Ransley wrote: Stormin, so cold air is heavier , does my car take more HP to run in cold air from wind resistance. It probably does, if that's all you consider. Happily, engines are more efficient when their intake is cold (plus, you're less likely to be running the A/C). On modern vehicles, when you go to WOT, the AC is kicked out...even then, at highway speeds, less than 2HP is used to run it. The reason that a car likes cold air is that cold air is more dense. Helps to slightly increase volumetric efficiency. The reason that with HVAC issues you have a faster speed on cool than you do low, is two fold, and if Stormy had a clue, (he does not) he would know why. There is no *requirement* that heating speed be lower than cooling speed. What is important is that you have the proper cfm per ton set up for cooling, and that your temp rise in heating falls within the specs (temp drop range) listed on the data plate or label in/on the furnace. Factory default isn't necessarily what's going to be required. No...of course not, but in the case of a furnace say..the slower of the two speeds NORMALLY will be your heat fan speed. hvacrmedic |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
CBHVAC wrote: "CJT" wrote in message ... m Ransley wrote: Stormin, so cold air is heavier , does my car take more HP to run in cold air from wind resistance. It probably does, if that's all you consider. Happily, engines are more efficient when their intake is cold (plus, you're less likely to be running the A/C). On modern vehicles, when you go to WOT, the AC is kicked out...even then, at highway speeds, less than 2HP is used to run it. The reason that a car likes cold air is that cold air is more dense. Helps to slightly increase volumetric efficiency. The reason that with HVAC issues you have a faster speed on cool than you do low, is two fold, and if Stormy had a clue, (he does not) he would know why. There is no *requirement* that heating speed be lower than cooling speed. What is important is that you have the proper cfm per ton set up for cooling, and that your temp rise in heating falls within the specs (temp drop range) listed on the data plate or label in/on the furnace. Factory default isn't necessarily what's going to be required. hvacrmedic |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
CBHVAC wrote: "RP" wrote in message ... CBHVAC wrote: "CJT" wrote in message ... m Ransley wrote: Stormin, so cold air is heavier , does my car take more HP to run in cold air from wind resistance. It probably does, if that's all you consider. Happily, engines are more efficient when their intake is cold (plus, you're less likely to be running the A/C). On modern vehicles, when you go to WOT, the AC is kicked out...even then, at highway speeds, less than 2HP is used to run it. The reason that a car likes cold air is that cold air is more dense. Helps to slightly increase volumetric efficiency. The reason that with HVAC issues you have a faster speed on cool than you do low, is two fold, and if Stormy had a clue, (he does not) he would know why. There is no *requirement* that heating speed be lower than cooling speed. What is important is that you have the proper cfm per ton set up for cooling, and that your temp rise in heating falls within the specs (temp drop range) listed on the data plate or label in/on the furnace. Factory default isn't necessarily what's going to be required. No...of course not, but in the case of a furnace say..the slower of the two speeds NORMALLY will be your heat fan speed. I didn't doubt you for a moment, I was just clarifying because your statement could have easily been misinterpreted as meaning that there was some requirement for heating speed to be lower. :) NORMALLY, the heating speed is lower, simply because the engineers arranged for it to be. Lower face velocity and higher temp means less draft and thus more comfort for the occupants. It is however less efficient. hvacrmedic |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
|
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
On Fri, 23 Dec 2005 00:54:42 -0600, RP
wrote: I didn't doubt you for a moment, I was just clarifying because your statement could have easily been misinterpreted as meaning that there was some requirement for heating speed to be lower. :) NORMALLY, the heating speed is lower, simply because the engineers arranged for it to be. Lower face velocity and higher temp means less draft and thus more comfort for the occupants. It is however less efficient. How does this apply to auto heaters? You're the first person I've seen mention that one can get iiuyouc, almost the same result with lower velocity and higher temp. I like to put my car fan on one of the lower two speeds, because it makes too much noise in the higher two. I figure that at lower speeds, the air spends more time in the heater core, and gets hotter, so that makes up for the fact that there is less hot air. Am I right, and do you have a guess about how much heat speed 2 puts out compared to speed 3? It's a Chrysler at the moment. hvacrmedic Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let me know if you have posted also. |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
"I figure that at lower speeds, the air spends more time in the heater
core, and gets hotter, so that makes up for the fact that there is less hot air. " Yes, and no. Yes the air gets hotter at slower velocities. And no it doesn't make up for it. While the air coming out will be significantly hotter, you still get the most heat by having the max blower speed. Max blower speed forces more cold air into the heater which extracts more heat from the heater core. |
Blower motor died on a 18 year old Furnace: Update 2
"mm" wrote in message How does this apply to auto heaters? You're the first person I've seen mention that one can get iiuyouc, almost the same result with lower velocity and higher temp. I like to put my car fan on one of the lower two speeds, because it makes too much noise in the higher two. I figure that at lower speeds, the air spends more time in the heater core, and gets hotter, so that makes up for the fact that there is less hot air. Am I right, and do you have a guess about how much heat speed 2 puts out compared to speed 3? It's a Chrysler at the moment. Any auto with automatic heat starts the blower on low speed when the water hits about 110 degrees. This gets heat into the car as soon as possible, but at lower volumes. On mine, it steps up again at about 125 and again at about 150. In any case, there is only so much heat available at a given temperature of the heating coil. Lower speeds give a higher relative air temperature due to the increased residence time, but overall heat output would be less than the optimal combination of coil temperature and air flow. |
| All times are GMT +1. The time now is 08:38 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright ©2004 - 2014 DIYbanter