Hi TomS, hope you are having a nice day

On 04-Oct-04 At About 06:09:12, TomS wrote to TomS
Subject: 2 year old Furnace problem

T From: "TomS"

T Hi,

T The Gas Furnace (forced air) came with the newly built house (2 years
T ago). The Furnace worked great for the past years, but I tried to
T turn the heat on a day ago and the heat wouldn't come on. The
T Furnace's diagnostic light is steady green (code says that it's in
T normal working condition). I've replaced the Thermostat (planned on
T getting a digital controller anyway) but didn't fix the problem.

T Note: AC works, Blower Fan works... just no heat. No indication of
T the Heater starting.

T The Furnace is noted as automatic pilot, so not much to do there as
T far as lighting the pilot light. Anyway, I've followed the
T instruction and powered down the Furnace & powering it back on &
T adjusting the Thermostat to trigger heat but couldn't get it to go.

T Worse comes to worse, it's under the 5yr warranty but I'm almost
T certain it just needs a little cleaning of some sort to get it to go.
T I would much prefer not having to spend $150.00 for a tech to come
T out & do a 5 minute clean job.

T Any pointer or helps greatly appreciated!

Other than cycling the unit as you have already done There isn't much else
you can do without knowing how the system works and how to troubleshoot it.
Todays furnaces are a lot more complicated than the older ones and some even
require special tools to hook up and find fault codes.


-= HvacTech2 =-


... "I make wine out of raisins so it's aged automatically..."- s.w.

___ TagDude 0.92á+[DM]
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++
spam protection measure, Please remove the 33 to send e-mail

Hi,

The Gas Furnace (forced air) came with the newly built house (2 years ago).
The Furnace worked great for the past years, but I tried to turn the heat on
a day ago and the heat wouldn't come on. The Furnace's diagnostic light is
steady green (code says that it's in normal working condition). I've
replaced the Thermostat (planned on getting a digital controller anyway) but
didn't fix the problem.

Note: AC works, Blower Fan works... just no heat. No indication of the
Heater starting.

The Furnace is noted as automatic pilot, so not much to do there as far as
lighting the pilot light. Anyway, I've followed the instruction and powered
down the Furnace & powering it back on & adjusting the Thermostat to trigger
heat but couldn't get it to go.

Worse comes to worse, it's under the 5yr warranty but I'm almost certain it
just needs a little cleaning of some sort to get it to go. I would much
prefer not having to spend $150.00 for a tech to come out & do a 5 minute
clean job.

Any pointer or helps greatly appreciated!

Don't you have a switch on the bottom of the thermostat that you have to switch
from AC to Heat? Most do.

Do you have a model & serial number?


"TomS" wrote in message
...
Hi,

The Gas Furnace (forced air) came with the newly built house (2 years
ago).
The Furnace worked great for the past years, but I tried to turn the heat
on
a day ago and the heat wouldn't come on. The Furnace's diagnostic light is
steady green (code says that it's in normal working condition). I've
replaced the Thermostat (planned on getting a digital controller anyway)
but
didn't fix the problem.

Note: AC works, Blower Fan works... just no heat. No indication of the
Heater starting.

The Furnace is noted as automatic pilot, so not much to do there as far as
lighting the pilot light. Anyway, I've followed the instruction and
powered
down the Furnace & powering it back on & adjusting the Thermostat to
trigger
heat but couldn't get it to go.

Worse comes to worse, it's under the 5yr warranty but I'm almost certain
it
just needs a little cleaning of some sort to get it to go. I would much
prefer not having to spend $150.00 for a tech to come out & do a 5 minute
clean job.

Any pointer or helps greatly appreciated!

"TomS" wrote in message
...
Hi,

The Gas Furnace (forced air) came with the newly built house (2 years ago).
The Furnace worked great for the past years, but I tried to turn the heat on
a day ago and the heat wouldn't come on. The Furnace's diagnostic light is
steady green (code says that it's in normal working condition). I've
replaced the Thermostat (planned on getting a digital controller anyway) but
didn't fix the problem.

Note: AC works, Blower Fan works... just no heat. No indication of the
Heater starting.

The Furnace is noted as automatic pilot, so not much to do there as far as
lighting the pilot light. Anyway, I've followed the instruction and powered
down the Furnace & powering it back on & adjusting the Thermostat to trigger
heat but couldn't get it to go.

Worse comes to worse, it's under the 5yr warranty but I'm almost certain it
just needs a little cleaning of some sort to get it to go. I would much
prefer not having to spend $150.00 for a tech to come out & do a 5 minute
clean job.

Any pointer or helps greatly appreciated!


This is Turtle.

Without a Model number & Serial and brand name. We are shooting in the Dark
here.

Well Ok here is a shot.

I think you have a broken 24 volt control wire going from the furnace to the
thermostat. It will usely be the white wire but look where the connections are
at the furnce for being a bad connection. The only way to not get a sound of no
kind out of it when you turn on the heat or jump out the thermostat is a loose
or broken connection of the 24 volt wires. The only way to get it to do nothing
when you turn it on is to not send power by way of 24 volt signal to it.

TURTLE

Thanks for the info.

It has Quiet Comfort label on the Furnace.

You are correct in making the assumption that nothing triggers on the
Furnace end (no attempt to start... nothing) when the Thermostat is switched
to turn the heat on & the temp set higher than the room temp.

I will look at the installation guide & see verify that the connection is
good. If not, I'll make the adjustment (with the circuit off).



This is Turtle.

Without a Model number & Serial and brand name. We are shooting in the
Dark
here.

Well Ok here is a shot.

I think you have a broken 24 volt control wire going from the furnace to
the
thermostat. It will usely be the white wire but look where the connections
are
at the furnce for being a bad connection. The only way to not get a sound
of no
kind out of it when you turn on the heat or jump out the thermostat is a
loose
or broken connection of the 24 volt wires. The only way to get it to do
nothing
when you turn it on is to not send power by way of 24 volt signal to it.

TURTLE

Yes and it was moved to the Heat position when I tested it. While moved to
the AC position, the air works great. The fan works great. The only problem
is that the Furnace does nothing when moved to the heat position.

"Randd01" wrote in message
...
Don't you have a switch on the bottom of the thermostat that you have to
switch
from AC to Heat? Most do.

We had that happen in our previous home when the furnace fuse burned
out. The fuse was located outside of furnace.

TomS wrote:
Yes and it was moved to the Heat position when I tested it. While moved to
the AC position, the air works great. The fan works great. The only problem
is that the Furnace does nothing when moved to the heat position.

"Randd01" wrote in message
...

Don't you have a switch on the bottom of the thermostat that you have to

switch

from AC to Heat? Most do.

The troubleshooting section of the Manual doesn't even have reference to my
situation. I have a non-flashing green diagnostic light so everything should
be working... ok, where's the heat

"HvacTech2" wrote in message
...


Hi TomS, hope you are having a nice day

On 04-Oct-04 At About 06:09:12, TomS wrote to TomS
Subject: 2 year old Furnace problem

T From: "TomS"

T Hi,

T The Gas Furnace (forced air) came with the newly built house (2 years
T ago). The Furnace worked great for the past years, but I tried to
T turn the heat on a day ago and the heat wouldn't come on. The
T Furnace's diagnostic light is steady green (code says that it's in
T normal working condition). I've replaced the Thermostat (planned on
T getting a digital controller anyway) but didn't fix the problem.

T Note: AC works, Blower Fan works... just no heat. No indication of
T the Heater starting.

T The Furnace is noted as automatic pilot, so not much to do there as
T far as lighting the pilot light. Anyway, I've followed the
T instruction and powered down the Furnace & powering it back on &
T adjusting the Thermostat to trigger heat but couldn't get it to go.

T Worse comes to worse, it's under the 5yr warranty but I'm almost
T certain it just needs a little cleaning of some sort to get it to go.
T I would much prefer not having to spend $150.00 for a tech to come
T out & do a 5 minute clean job.

T Any pointer or helps greatly appreciated!

Other than cycling the unit as you have already done There isn't much else
you can do without knowing how the system works and how to troubleshoot
it.
Todays furnaces are a lot more complicated than the older ones and some
even
require special tools to hook up and find fault codes.


-= HvacTech2 =-


.. "I make wine out of raisins so it's aged automatically..."- s.w.

___ TagDude 0.92á+[DM]
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++
spam protection measure, Please remove the 33 to send e-mail

I saw the fuse for the blower logic board, but didn't see any other
accessible fuse. Guess I'll have to double-check.

Thanks.

"NULL" wrote in message
...
We had that happen in our previous home when the furnace fuse burned
out. The fuse was located outside of furnace.

TomS wrote:
Yes and it was moved to the Heat position when I tested it. While moved
to
the AC position, the air works great. The fan works great. The only
problem
is that the Furnace does nothing when moved to the heat position.

"Randd01" wrote in message
...

Don't you have a switch on the bottom of the thermostat that you have to

switch

from AC to Heat? Most do.

Hi TomS, hope you are having a nice day

On 04-Oct-04 At About 23:48:54, TomS wrote to TomS
Subject: 2 year old Furnace problem

T From: "TomS"

T Yes and it was moved to the Heat position when I tested it. While
T moved to the AC position, the air works great. The fan works great.
T The only problem is that the Furnace does nothing when moved to the
T heat position.

Hmmm, you didn't by chance change the thermostat over the summer did you?

-= HvacTech2 =-


... Please return stewardess to her original upright position.

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Original poster indicated he did swtich thermostat after he noticed the problem
but it didn't do the trick.
Looks like a service call to me, but what do I know!

It's noted on the Manual as the central controller fuse, which tested out
fine with the continuity test.

"TomS" wrote in message
...
I saw the fuse for the blower logic board, but didn't see any other
accessible fuse. Guess I'll have to double-check.

Thanks.

"NULL" wrote in message
...
We had that happen in our previous home when the furnace fuse burned
out. The fuse was located outside of furnace.

TomS wrote:
Yes and it was moved to the Heat position when I tested it. While
moved
to
the AC position, the air works great. The fan works great. The only
problem
is that the Furnace does nothing when moved to the heat position.

"Randd01" wrote in message
...

Don't you have a switch on the bottom of the thermostat that you have
to

switch

from AC to Heat? Most do.

It wasn't working prior to the replacement.

"HvacTech2" wrote in message
...


Hi TomS, hope you are having a nice day

On 04-Oct-04 At About 23:48:54, TomS wrote to TomS
Subject: 2 year old Furnace problem

T From: "TomS"

T Yes and it was moved to the Heat position when I tested it. While
T moved to the AC position, the air works great. The fan works great.
T The only problem is that the Furnace does nothing when moved to the
T heat position.

Hmmm, you didn't by chance change the thermostat over the summer did you?

-= HvacTech2 =-


.. Please return stewardess to her original upright position.

___ TagDude 0.92á+[DM]
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ +++++++++++
spam protection measure, Please remove the 33 to send e-mail

The Fuse on the Controller board test fine.

The Circuit Breaker when on the ON position, does provides power to the
switch on the Furnace. My guestion is, can the Circuit Breaker provide
enough power to turn on the switch but not enough to start the Furnace?
Meaning bad Circuit Breaker?

The connections from the Thermostat to the Furnace looks fine. However I
have no way to confirming that the W wire isn't defective.
However I do have an additional wire that connects to the C connector on the
Furnace end, which isn't used at the Thermostat end because my system
doesn't support the configuration. Would it be okay to temporary swap the W
wire with the spare wire (or with the Blower wire) and test for continuity?
The look identical thus I assume they are the same guage.

"TomS" wrote in message
...
The Fuse on the Controller board test fine.

The Circuit Breaker when on the ON position, does provides power to the
switch on the Furnace. My guestion is, can the Circuit Breaker provide
enough power to turn on the switch but not enough to start the Furnace?
Meaning bad Circuit Breaker?

The connections from the Thermostat to the Furnace looks fine. However I
have no way to confirming that the W wire isn't defective.
However I do have an additional wire that connects to the C connector on
the
Furnace end, which isn't used at the Thermostat end because my system
doesn't support the configuration. Would it be okay to temporary swap the
W
wire with the spare wire (or with the Blower wire) and test for
continuity?
The look identical thus I assume they are the same guage.

Generally if a breaker closes and provides power at all the breaker is ok.


---
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Tom;

You can test the furnace by disconnecting your thermostat from the furnace
(at the furnace) and use a piece of 18 gauge wire from the "R" terminal to
the "W" terminal to complete the circuit. If your furnace is a 'newer'
furnace, you will have to close the blower door to complete a 'safety
switch' connection. If your furnace doesn't work after completing the
circuit from R-W, then your problems in the furnace and not the thermostat.
At that point I'd check the phone book for a qualified licensed heating
contractor to check it out.

--
Zyp
"TomS" wrote in message
...
The Fuse on the Controller board test fine.

The Circuit Breaker when on the ON position, does provides power to the
switch on the Furnace. My guestion is, can the Circuit Breaker provide
enough power to turn on the switch but not enough to start the Furnace?
Meaning bad Circuit Breaker?

The connections from the Thermostat to the Furnace looks fine. However I
have no way to confirming that the W wire isn't defective.
However I do have an additional wire that connects to the C connector on
the
Furnace end, which isn't used at the Thermostat end because my system
doesn't support the configuration. Would it be okay to temporary swap the
W
wire with the spare wire (or with the Blower wire) and test for
continuity?
The look identical thus I assume they are the same guage.

Makes sense, thanks.

"Zypher" wrote in message
ink.net...
Tom;

You can test the furnace by disconnecting your thermostat from the furnace
(at the furnace) and use a piece of 18 gauge wire from the "R" terminal to
the "W" terminal to complete the circuit. If your furnace is a 'newer'
furnace, you will have to close the blower door to complete a 'safety
switch' connection. If your furnace doesn't work after completing the
circuit from R-W, then your problems in the furnace and not the
thermostat.
At that point I'd check the phone book for a qualified licensed heating
contractor to check it out.

--
Zyp
"TomS" wrote in message
...
The Fuse on the Controller board test fine.

The Circuit Breaker when on the ON position, does provides power to the
switch on the Furnace. My guestion is, can the Circuit Breaker provide
enough power to turn on the switch but not enough to start the Furnace?
Meaning bad Circuit Breaker?

The connections from the Thermostat to the Furnace looks fine. However I
have no way to confirming that the W wire isn't defective.
However I do have an additional wire that connects to the C connector on
the
Furnace end, which isn't used at the Thermostat end because my system
doesn't support the configuration. Would it be okay to temporary swap
the
W
wire with the spare wire (or with the Blower wire) and test for
continuity?
The look identical thus I assume they are the same guage.

You just need a VOM with very long leads. So you can test the wire for
continuity.

Sure, use a different wire. The electricity won't know the difference.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"TomS" wrote in message
...
The Fuse on the Controller board test fine.

The connections from the Thermostat to the Furnace looks fine. However I
have no way to confirming that the W wire isn't defective.
However I do have an additional wire that connects to the C connector on the
Furnace end, which isn't used at the Thermostat end because my system
doesn't support the configuration. Would it be okay to temporary swap the W
wire with the spare wire (or with the Blower wire) and test for continuity?
The look identical thus I assume they are the same guage.

I swapped the G (Blower) wire with the W (Heater) wire at both ends. Power
up the Furnace via Circuit Breaker & switch... The Blower works fine when
triggered by the Thermostat. So that about eliminates the wiring &
thermostat out of the equation. Rewired the G & W wire to it's original
state... a little closer to the problem I guess.



"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
You just need a VOM with very long leads. So you can test the wire for
continuity.

Sure, use a different wire. The electricity won't know the difference.

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"TomS" wrote in message
...
The Fuse on the Controller board test fine.

The connections from the Thermostat to the Furnace looks fine. However I
have no way to confirming that the W wire isn't defective.
However I do have an additional wire that connects to the C connector on
the
Furnace end, which isn't used at the Thermostat end because my system
doesn't support the configuration. Would it be okay to temporary swap the
W
wire with the spare wire (or with the Blower wire) and test for
continuity?
The look identical thus I assume they are the same guage.

What happened when you jumped W and R at the furnace?

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"TomS" wrote in message
...
I swapped the G (Blower) wire with the W (Heater) wire at both ends. Power
up the Furnace via Circuit Breaker & switch... The Blower works fine when
triggered by the Thermostat. So that about eliminates the wiring &
thermostat out of the equation. Rewired the G & W wire to it's original
state... a little closer to the problem I guess.

Had a Furnace Serviceman stop by and he tested the Furnace out. He concludes
that the Gas Valve is the problem. Apparently the newer Furnace has more
technology built into the Gas Valve component. He then called the
Manufacturer the following morning and confirmed the problem.

I've contacted the Builder since and was told that the Builder send someone
over with the part to repair the Furnace free of charge, since the house is
just little over 2years old.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
What happened when you jumped W and R at the furnace?

--

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


"TomS" wrote in message
...
I swapped the G (Blower) wire with the W (Heater) wire at both ends. Power
up the Furnace via Circuit Breaker & switch... The Blower works fine when
triggered by the Thermostat. So that about eliminates the wiring &
thermostat out of the equation. Rewired the G & W wire to it's original
state... a little closer to the problem I guess.